Bali & Lombok (Lonely Planet) – Read Now and Download Mobi

Contents

Destination Bali & Lombok

Getting Started

Itineraries

History

The Culture

Food & Drink

Environment

Bali & Lombok Outdoors

Kuta, Legian & Seminyak

South Bali

Ubud & Around

East Bali

Central Mountains

North Bali

West Bali

Lombok

Directory

Transport

Health

Language

Glossary

The Authors

Behind the Scenes

Map Legend

Destination Bali & Lombok

   MODERN CHALLENGES
   A CULTURE THRIVES

It can’t be said often enough – Bali is like no other destination in the world. Its rich culture is played out at all levels of life, from the exquisite flower-petal offerings placed seemingly everywhere, to the processions of joyfully-garbed locals, shutting down major roads as they march to one of the myriad temple ceremonies, to the otherworldly traditional music and dance still being performed island-wide by a record number of troupes.

FAST FACTS

Population: Bali 3.5 million; Lombok 3 million

Percentage of land in Bali used for rice production: 20%

Average monthly wage of a tourism worker: US$70-150

Average midrange hotel: US$85 per night

Percentage Hindu in Bali: 92%; Muslim on Lombok: 93%

Down payment on purchase of a motorbike: US$30

Wet season: Oct-Mar

Dry season: Apr-Sep

Area: Bali 5620 sq km; Lombok 5435 sq km

Yes, Bali has beaches, surfing, diving and resorts great and small, but it’s the essence of Bali – and the Balinese – that make it so much more than just a fun-in-the-sun retreat. It is possible to take the cliché of the smiling Balinese too far, but in reality, the inhabitants of this small island are indeed a generous, genuinely warm people. There’s also a fun, sly sense of humour behind the smiles; upon seeing a bald tourist, many locals exclaim ‘bung ujan’ (today’s rain is cancelled) – it’s their way of saying that the hairless head is like a clear sky.

These very qualities are also cause for the constant hand-wringing and worry that Bali is doomed to choke on its very success. Although concerns that Balinese culture is imperilled by tourism have been heard since the 1920s (when visitors numbered fewer than 1000 a year), the fears may finally be gaining wide traction with visitor numbers passing two million in 2008 –a record. (Lombok is also experiencing boom times, which may mean a new airport and new resorts in now-rural Kuta.)

This could all have contributed to the excitement surrounding the election of a new governor in 2008, notable given that no level of government inspires confidence in Bali (at the scene of an accident, the one thing all sides agreed upon was not to call the police). Made Pastika, who took office in August of 2008, is viewed as a genuine hero, the can-do former police chief who was given much credit for helping solve the 2002 Kuta bombings. The danger now though is that too much will be expected of him at a time when Bali faces some real problems, from its place within Islamic Indonesia, to the pressures of too many people trying to use too few resources, to the sheer popularity of a place that has too many people trying to make a buck however they can.

Pastika has also fuelled expectations with his campaign promises: to raise wages by 100%, ensure that Bali is not sold out to unfettered tourism and, all the while, protect Bali’s environment. It’s an ambitious, daunting and some would say critical agenda for the future.

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MODERN CHALLENGES

Pastika’s concern about development and the environment reflects the top issue for locals and expats alike. Although it’s a problem far from unique to Bali, unconstrained development threatens some of the very qualities that make Bali a wonderful place to visit. The coast is especially vulnerable. In 2000, for example, there were just rice fields north of Seminyak, all the way to Pura Tanah Lot – the hundreds of villas dotting that same landscape now illustrate the scope of the issue. Unfortunately, many of the problems are caused by builders simply ignoring existing rules put in place to combat these very issues.

There are rumblings though that a limit may have been reached. There’s a good chance that a 5km zone of exclusion will be enforced around Pura Ulu Watu in the south; a hotel built shockingly close to the high-tide line in Seminyak was forced to demolish a new and popular rooftop bar that violated the 15m height rule Click here; and locals in North Bali have confronted government officials who allowed villa projects to proceed under dubious circumstances.

As with so much else, there are calls across the island for Governor Pastika to ‘get tough’ on the issue. With the rice fields of Bali succumbing to development by 700 to 1000 hectares a year, solutions will be needed soon before the villa-spotted fields of Kerobokan and Canggu become the norm. These solutions may pose very hard questions for the Balinese though, with the average youth now preferring a better-paying job in tourism than one working in the back-breaking conditions of the rice fields. Who would work the rice farms that are saved? And who would deny the farmers, who have never had anything, the money their land could bring them?

Balancing these concerns is a challenge going forward. Tourism has brought enormous benefits to the Balinese, evident from the economic and psychological crash that came when people stayed away after the 2002 bombings. And while no one should stay away out of fear for the island’s future, it is good to know that there’s a recognition that there is a limit to what the island can sustain.

Like a canary in a coal mine, water has served as a valuable warning to the Balinese that their beautiful island doesn’t have unlimited resources. The images of rushing streams and gurgling rice fields are as much a part of Bali’s image as beaches and dance, but even this seemingly limitless commodity is imperilled by the island’s growth.

BALI

As I mentioned this morning to Charlie

There is far too much music in Bali

And altho’ as a place it’s entrancing

There is also a thought too much dancing.

It appears that each Balinese native

From the womb to the tomb is creative,

From sunrise till long after sundown,

Without getting nervy or rundown

They sculpt and they paint and they practise their songs,

They run through their dances and bang on their gongs,

Each writhe and each wriggle,

Each glamorous wriggle

Each sinuous action,

Is timed to a fraction.

And altho’ the results are quite charming,

If sometimes a trifle alarming!

And altho’ all the ‘Lovelies’ and ‘Pretties’

Unblushingly brandish their titties

The whole thing’s a little too clever

And there’s too much artistic endeavour!

Forgive the above mentioned Charlie,

I had to rhyme something with Bali.

Noel Coward (he wrote this to his travelling companion Charlie Chaplinduring a visit to Bali in the 1920s).

The Balinese are showing that they will find a way to adapt to this challenge as they have to so many others before. Sewer systems are being installed and water mains are replacing shallow wells that drain the water table. Visitors have also been important in raising awareness by demanding clean water and clean beaches. In fact, everyone visiting the island can have a positive impact just by following some of the tips in this book (Click here) for a green holiday.

Visitors also help preserve this paradise by demanding that businesses act responsibly and by giving their custom to those leading the way. The number of environmentally savvy businesses (such as those listed in the GreenDex) grows daily. Dive shops are teaching locals how to protect reefs and keep beaches clean, while hotels are ensuring that wastes are recycled properly.

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A CULTURE THRIVES

The Balinese have always found a way to stay true to themselves, whether it was in the face of invasions from Java, volcanoes blowing their lid or while welcoming two million visitors. Who can question the ingenuity of people who today fly kites both so they can have fun and so they can talk to the gods?

In a world where change accelerates exponentially, the Balinese never forsake the very fundamentals of their society. They still ask ‘where are you from?’ and ‘where do you go?’ to figure out where you fit into the greater scheme. They still closely adhere to the banjar Click here, the uniquely Balinese form of consensus government that was created in the villages centuries ago and continues as strong as ever, even now that villages are linked by mobile phones. And every time you discover a tiny offering – even just an incense stick still smoking outside your hotel room – you’re reminded that the Balinese get it. They never underestimate their power to embrace change and flourish from it.

Getting Started

   WHEN TO GO
   COSTS & MONEY
   TRAVEL LITERATURE
   INTERNET RESOURCES

To get started for your adventure to Bali, all you really need is a ticket. (Well, maybe also a visa, Click here, a passport, some money…but you get the idea.) The entire island is so well set up for visitors, the Balinese are so welcoming and the climate and weather so agreeable that you really can just hop on a plane and go.

Although Lombok isn’t quite as easy, it’s not too hard to find your way around with a little advance preparation. Simply getting to either place is the biggest hurdle (and it’s a low one at that).

And as Bali and Lombok reward the spontaneous traveller, they also reward the traveller who plans. This is especially the case in Bali – you can stay at exquisite places, experience unique aspects of the culture and tailor your trip to a remarkable degree with advance work. If you want to make time for real discoveries or just discover some good bargains, you can reap the rewards of forethought.

Whatever your travel style, you’ll find the real obstacles to independent travel in this part of the world are few. The islands are used to travellers of all stripes, English is widely spoken and, even if you forgot something at home, you can get it here.

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WHEN TO GO

The best time to visit Bali, in terms of the weather, is during the dry season (April to September). The rest of the year is more humid, cloudier and has more rainstorms, but you can still enjoy a holiday.

There are also distinct tourist seasons that affect the picture. The European, American and Japanese summer holidays bring the biggest crowds – July, August and early September are busy. Accommodation can be very tight in these months and prices are higher. Lots of Australians arrive between Christmas and early January – flights are booked solid. (School holidays are also busy – early April, late June to early July and late September in particular. The resort areas in South Bali such as Legian cater to this sort of package travel.) Many Indonesians visit Bali during some Indonesian holidays, Click here. Outside these times, Bali is quieter – you can find a room in most places and just turn up at your restaurant of choice.

See climate charts Click here for more information.

DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

• Double-checking the ever-changing visa situation Click here.
• Sunglasses and a hat to deflect the fierce equatorial sun (buy your sunscreen in Bali to avoid airport seizure).
• Ascertaining your country’s travel advice for Indonesia.
• A travel insurance policy covering you for any calamity.
• Earplugs for the endless repetitions of ‘Jammin” at beach bars.
• Your favourite brand of wax for your surfboard.
• Comfortable but rugged walking shoes or sandals.
• Flip-flops in your size for hanging out by the pool.
• That clichéd extra bag for all the stuff you’ll buy.
• That book you’ve been waiting to read.
• An iPod full of tunes to give your adventures a beat.
• Leaving lots of stuff at home (if you need it you can probably buy it in Bali).

TOP PICKS

BEACHES

Beaches ring Bali, but iconic ones with white sand are not as common as you’d think – most are some variation of tan or grey. Surf conditions also range from limp to torrid, depending on whether there is an offshore reef. Almost any beach will have at least one vendor happy to supply a cold Bintang.

• Kuta Beach Click here Cynics aside, this long, curved, wide stretch of sand boasts great surf that swimmers and surfers alike can enjoy. It’s a place enjoyed both by locals and visitors – especially at sunset.
• Balangan Beach Click here This curving white-sand beach on the Bukit Peninsula, backed by an impromptu resort, is ramshackle in an endearing way and perfect for a snooze on the beach.
• Pasir Putih Click here A throwback gem east of Candidasa, this crescent of palm-fringed white sand is postcard perfect.
• Nusa Lembongan Click here There’s a whole series of light-sand beaches at this relaxed and funky island off East Bali. Surf, dive, drink beer or just hang out.
• Gili Island beaches Click here The beaches on these three islands are uniformly gorgeous, with circles of white sand, great snorkelling and a timeless traveller vibe.

FESTIVALS

As well as the amazing selection of religious events that Bali offers, there is an impressive line-up of festivals to fascinate and transfix you. These events occur throughout the year and are scheduled using a Balinese calendar, very different from Western calendars. Click here for details. The events below follow an annual schedule and are all worthy reasons to hop on a plane.

• Nyale Fishing Festival (Click here; February or March; Kuta, Lombok) Thousands of Sasak fishermen build bonfires on the beach at Lombok’s Kuta while myriad rituals take place.
• Bali Arts Festival (Click here; mid-June to mid-July; Denpasar) Denpasar hosts a month of cultural performances by the best groups on the island, who compete for prizes.
• Kuta Karnival (Click here; late September and early October; Kuta, Bali) The always-near-the-surface zany side of Kuta is let loose though parades, arts competitions, cultural shows, beach sports tournaments, kite-flying contests and more.
• Ubud Writers & Readers Festival (Click here; October; Ubud) Top authors from around the world gather in a celebration of writing – especially that which touches on Bali.
• Nyepi Click here The ultimate anti-festival, the entire island truly shuts down for 24 hours –even walking outside is a no-no. Think of it as the ultimate chill-out.

Balinese festivals, holidays and special celebrations occur all the time, and as most of them are not scheduled according to Western calendars, don’t worry too much about timing your visit to coincide with local events (Click here).

Just 8 degrees south of the equator, Bali has a tropical climate – the average temperature hovers around 30°C (around 85°F) all year. Direct sun feels incredibly hot, especially in the middle of the day. In the wet season, from October through March, the humidity can be very high and oppressive. The almost daily tropical downpours come as a relief but then pass quickly.

Clouds and mist usually envelop the slopes of the major volcanoes in Bali and Lombok, so those iconic postcard shots might be hard to come by. Also, temps can get chilly up the slopes at night.

The dry season (April to September) is nicer, although this shouldn’t be an overriding factor in your decision. The days are slightly cooler but it still rains some. You can escape the heat at any time of the year by heading to upland places like Ubud, where cool mountain air makes evenings a pleasure.

On Lombok, the west (where the main town and tourist areas are based) has a climate similar to South Bali but drier. The wet season, from late October to early May, is less extreme, with December, January and February the wettest months. In the dry season, from June to September, temperatures will range from hot to scorching. Travel on the island is slightly less convenient during Ramadan, the Muslim fasting month (the ninth month in the Muslim calendar), especially in the traditional rural areas. In the tourist areas though, there should be little difference in services.

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COSTS & MONEY

In Bali, you can spend as much or as little as you want – there are fabulous resorts where a room costs US$500 or more a night, where dinner costs more than US$75 per person and you can be reborn in a spa for US$100 an hour. At the other extreme, you can easily find decent budget rooms for US$10 and enjoy a fresh meal from a warung (food stall) for under US$2. In short, Bali is a bargain for budget travellers and offers excellent value for those seeking luxury.

HOW MUCH?

Cost to send an email taunting friends with all the fun you’re having: under 500Rp

Simple beachside room with a great view: under US$40

Traditional gamelan music and dance performance: 80,000Rp

Ice-cold Bintang on the beach at sunset: 15,000Rp

Cost of walking the emerald rice fields of Ubud: free

A good comfortable room in a small hotel near the beach in the south or amid the rice fields of Ubud will cost US$60 on average (and often less). Expect it to come with a pool, air-con, fridge, patio and decor that is comfortable if not exactly stylish. You can have an excellent three-course meal for US$7 (including a large bottle of beer) at many tourist restaurants, while US$20 buys you a more creative, memorable meal. See Accommodation Click here for a full discussion of what kind of bed your money will buy you in Bali and Lombok.

Transport is affordable – remember that Bali and Lombok are small islands. Public buses and bemo (minibuses) are the local form of public transport and they’re very cheap – 35,000Rp will get you across the island. A rental motorbike costs around US$4 per day and a small jeep runs about US$12 per day. You can charter a car and a driver for around US$35 to US$50 per day.

Nearly every museum, major temple or tourist site has an entry charge of about 6000/3000Rp per adult/child – it’s a trifling amount. Galleries, bars and clubs are almost always free and the only place you’ll really have to pay a premium is at a few attractions aimed at visitors (such as animal parks) and adventure activities like river-rafting or water sports.

Overall, it’s possible to live a simple life for US$15 a day. This gets you a cheap room in Kuta, three fresh, local meals at warung, a few cold beers and all the free surfing you want. Spend more, say US$100 a day, and you’ll pretty much be able to eat, drink or do anything you want while enjoying a great midpriced room.

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TRAVEL LITERATURE

Books about Bali are common. Visit one of the bookshops on the island and you’ll have plenty of choices, with new works of variable quality appearing monthly. Titles dealing with Lombok, however, are a rarity.

Eat, Pray, Love is the publishing sensation that has women of a certain age flocking to Bali to find the answer to life’s dreams. For more, see the boxed text,. It’s certainly the best known of an entire over-subscribed genre of books written by women who turn up in Bali unsettled, only to find the meaning of life while there.

For tips for respecting traditions and acting appropriately while in Bali and Lombok, see the boxed text,.

Diana Darling’s The Painted Alphabet is based on a Balinese epic poem with all the usual ingredients: good, evil, a quest, baby-swapping and various mystical events. It’s a gentle and beguiling way to get your head into Balinese folklore.

A House in Bali by Colin McPhee is the timeless classic about a Canadian who experienced Balinese cultural and village life to the core in the 1930s.

The online journal of the irrepressible Made Wijaya, Stranger in Paradise (www.strangerinparadise.com), is filled with insightful and at times hilariously profane takes on local life.

Our Hotel in Bali by Louise Koke is another classic about Westerners in Bali in the 1930s. She and her husband Bob created the first-ever Kuta Beach hotel and had numerous delightful encounters along the way. It’s a quick and fun read with lots of photos.

Gecko’s Complaint is a morality tale presented as an old Balinese children’s fable. The recent Periplus edition is richly illustrated.

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INTERNET RESOURCES

• Bali Advertiser (www.baliadvertiser.biz) This online edition of Bali’s expat journal is filled with insider tips.
• Bali Blog (www.baliblog.com) Essays, news and information about Bali.
• Bali Discovery (www.balidiscovery.com) Although run by a tour company, this site is easily the best source for Balinese news and features, week in and week out. Excellent.
• Lombok Network (www.lombok-network.com) Very comprehensive, this site brings together huge amounts of current information on the island.
• LonelyPlanet.com (www.lonelyplanet.com) Share knowledge and experiences with other travellers; these islands have been Lonely Planet favourites from the start.

Itineraries

CLASSIC ROUTES
   TOTAL BALI & LOMBOK
   TROPICAL PLEASURES
   BEST OF BALI
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
   LEAVING THE CROWDS BEHIND
TAILORED TRIPS
   DISCOVER LOMBOK
   INCREDIBLE DIVES
   SPOIL ME
   BALI’S SPIRITUAL CENTRE

CLASSIC ROUTES

TOTAL BALI & LOMBOK    Two Weeks

The best of everything in Bali and Lombok comes together on this two-week trip of tropical and cultural delights. Bask on the best beaches, drown in a sea of green rice paddies, let the aura of amazing temples flow over you like a warm bath and immerse yourself in Bali’s incredible culture; it will be an island trip like no other.

Start your trip in Seminyak Click here, with the best places to go out for a meal, a drink or even a new frock, and allow at least three days to experience the wild charms of Kuta Beach Click here. Once you’re sated, head west, driving back roads around Tabanan Click here and Jatiluwih Click here, where enormous bamboo trees hang over the roads and the rice terraces await a final blessing by Unesco.

Continue west through Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park; ). Stop here, or press on and settle in at Pemuteran Click here. From here, you can snorkel or scuba Bali’s best dive site at Pulau Menjangan Click here. Driving east, stop at Lovina Click here and enjoy its laid-back beach-town vibe and then head up and over the string of volcanoes that are the heart – and soul – of the island.

Carry on through Kintamani Click here, where you’ll be rewarded with vistas of Bali’s big three: Gunung Batur Click here, Gunung Abang Click here and the holiest of holies, Gunung Agung Click here. Coming back down on the wet side of the island, head straight to Ubud Click here, the spiritual centre of Bali. Nights of dance and culture are offset by days of walking through the serene countryside. Head down to funky Padangbai Click here and catch the Perama boat to the beach resorts of Senggigi Click here and then on to the great travellers’ scene on the Gili Islands Click here.

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TROPICAL PLEASURES    Two Weeks

Surf and swim by day and party by night. Sleep? That’ll happen sometime. Start in timeless Kuta, then sample hidden beaches and great travellers’ scenes south of Bali and off its coast. Then it’s over to Lombok for more day and night action.

Don’t stray far from the airport, as Kuta Click here, in all its party glory, is only 10 minutes away. Hit the bars and clubs after midnight and come back to earth on the beach by day. Be sure to get to the trendy restaurants and clubs of Seminyak Click here before you leave this part of South Bali behind. Maybe you can learn how to surf, or at least brush up on your skills. Eventually, head south to sober up and mellow out. Bingin Click here has groovy cliffside inns overlooking fab surfing. When you’re ready and rested, get a boat from Sanur Click here to Nusa Lembongan Click here. This little island still has the classic, simple charm of a rural beach town, with a string of hotels – from basic to semi-posh – lining the sands. It’s a timeless travellers’ scene with a backdrop of excellent surfing and splendid snorkelling and diving.

Return to Bali and press on from Sanur to the beaches along the southeast coast. Try some of wild beaches around Lebih Click here, where the surf pounds the grey sand. Stop and test the waters with a little surfing, or grab a meal at one of the warung (food stalls) lining the roads to the beach. When you get to Padangbai Click here, stop. This fun little port town is an ideal place to hang out for a couple of days before you hop a boat to Lombok, docking in Senggigi Click here, the heart of Lombok’s beach scene. The coastline is lovely and as you’re gazing back towards Bali, you’ll already feel you’ve made a journey – fewer people visit Lombok than Bali.

Now it’s time to push on to the ultimate reward for your island adventure: the Gili Islands Click here. Depart from Senggigi and compare the scenes on Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno and Gili Air – then pick your favourite.

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BEST OF BALI    One Week

First-time visitors to Bali as well as old hands love the island for its beaches, shopping, nightlife, culture and simply beautiful scenery. This itinerary gives you the best of all this and more. Start in the hedonistic south and end up in the cultured climes of Ubud. You may need more than a week!

Start with a large room by the pool, or on the beach at one of the resorts in Legian Click here or Seminyak Click here. Sample the Kuta Beach Click here surf and head to Seminyak for world-class shopping Click here. Maybe a seafood dinner on Jimbaran Bay Click here, or a trendy restaurant in Seminyak Click here. Then, hit the edgy clubs in Kuta or the scenester joints in Seminyak.

Consider some day trips. Head down to surfing beaches like Balangan Beach Click here for some sun and fun, then on to the spiritual centre (and monkey home) of Pura Luhur Ulu Watu Click here. Bali’s ancient rice terraces will exhaust your abilities to describe green. Sample these in a drive up to the misty Pura Luhur Batukau Click here, followed by the terraces of Jatiluwih Click here.

In the east, take the coast road to wild and unvisited beaches like the one near Pura Masceti Click here, followed by the well-mannered royal town of Semarapura Click here with its ruins. Head north up the breathtaking Sidemen Road Click here, which combines ribbons of rice terraces with lush river valleys and cloud-shrouded mountains. Pass through Muncan Click here and then go west to Ubud Click here, the crowning stop on any itinerary.

Bali’s rich culture is most-celebrated and most-accessible in Ubud, as you can easily be enraptured by nightly dance performances. Hike through the surrounding rice fields to river valleys like the Sungai Ayung Click here, take a break in museums Click here bursting with paintings in the many styles reflecting Bali, or head north to the imposing thousand-year-old rock monoliths at Gunung Kawi Click here.

To spoil yourself, stay in one of the many hotels Click here near the centre with views across rice fields and rivers. Sample the offerings at a spa Click here before you sample one of the myriad great restaurants Click here to choose from.

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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED

LEAVING THE CROWDS BEHIND    Two Weeks

First have fun in Bali’s south, then get the heck out! This trip takes you up Bali’s stunning and spiritual peaks before sending you hiking lush hillside hideaways and on to mostly undiscovered Nusa Penida. Then it’s off to the quietest parts of Lombok.

Escape the day-trippers’ trails and explore the central mountains. Tackle Gunung Agung Click here, the spiritual centre of the island. Start early to reach the top and take in the views before the daily onslaught of clouds and mist.

Having climbed Bali’s most legendary peak, head west to the village of Munduk Click here, which looks down to the north coast and the sea beyond. Go for a walk in the area and enjoy waterfalls, truly tiny villages, wild fruit trees and the sinuous bands of rice paddies lining the hills like ribbons. Then head south to the wonderful temple of Pura Luhur Batukau Click here, and consider a trek up Bali’s second-highest mountain, Gunung Batukau Click here.

Next, bounce across the waves to Nusa Penida Click here, the island visible from much of the south and east – it’s lush, arid and almost unpopulated. Take in the amazing vistas from its cliffs and dive under the waves to check out the marine life.

Head to Lombok, but ignore the resorts in the east. Instead, head south. Well off the beaten path, the south coast near Lombok’s Kuta Click here has stunning beaches and surfing to reward the intrepid. The little-driven back roads of the interior will thrill the adventurous and curious, with tiny villages where you can learn about the amazing local handicrafts. Many of these roads lead up the flanks of Gunung Rinjani Click here, the volcanic peak that shelters the lush and remote Sembalun Valley Click here. Trekking from one village to the next on the rim can take days, but is one of the great walks.

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TAILORED TRIPS

DISCOVER LOMBOK

Just next door, but virtually unknown to most of Bali’s millions of tourists and thousands of expats, Lombok is waiting to be discovered. Begin by taking advantage of the islands’ proximity and hop one of the fast speedboat services from Bali (Click here) to Gili Trawangan Click here. By day, you’ll dive into reefs teeming with marine life Click here, and on land you’ll love the beaches, dining and nightlife on Gili T. Click here Take a Perama boat Click here from the Gilis to Senggigi Click here, where you can motorbike between deserted fishing beaches, visit the lovely Pura Batu Balong and take advantage of terrific hotel deals. Hit the market in Bertais Click here to get localised and recover from bule overload, then head through the craftsman towns of Sukarara Click here and Penujak Click here to rugged, majestic Kuta Click here. Take your time here – swim at Tanjung Aan Click here and Selong Blanak Click here, and surf at Mawan Click here. Let the rural coastline burn into your brain, because by the time you return it may begin to resemble Nusa Dua. After arid Kuta, you’ll dig the rice-paddy walk to Air Terjun Jukut in lush, fertile Tetebatu. After a night or two here, you’ll be ready to climb the slopes of Gunung Rinjani Click here, dip into her hot springs, and bag her peak. While you’re there remember to give thanks to Lombok’s mountain gods.

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INCREDIBLE DIVES

Everyone can see the surfer on top of Bali’s waves, but little do they realise that underwater there’s even more action. Follow the coast around Bali and you’ll be rewarded with one legendary dive spot after another, all with great dive shops and a place to kick back and relax in nearby towns. Head west to Pulau Menjangan Click here, in the Taman Nasional Bali Barat. It’s renowned for its coral and sheer wall and has a fine beach ashore. The nearby Pemuteran Click here hotels define relaxation; staying at these wonderfully isolated resorts is yet another reason why this is a good place to hang up your flippers. Lovina Click here is a good diving base. As well as it being a snoozy beach town, from here you can reach many of Bali’s best sites by day and still have time for one of the amazing local night dives.

Down the east coast is Tulamben Click here, where scores of people explore the shattered hulk of a WWII freighter. A smaller wreck lurks off the shores of Aas Click here near Amed. Padangbai Click here is another good diving base; there are lots of local sites to explore and the marine life encompasses everything from sharks to sunfish.

But wait, the brass ring for your dives might be in the distance, offshore. The islands of Nusa Penida Click here and Nusa Lembongan Click here both have scores of demanding dives to challenge experienced divers. The rewards are deep grottoes, drop-offs, and everything from mantas to turtles.

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SPOIL ME

Kilometre for kilometre, Bali has about the greatest density of fabulous resorts and spas you’ll find anywhere. From incredible food to hedonistic pampering, you can give yourself every sensation you want and deserve. Massage, spa treatments or just lounging by a pool – you’ll find the peace and pampering you want. Two great hotels – the serene Samaya Click here, and the understated Oberoi Click here – are just north of Kuta in Seminyak. They set the standards for the clean, tropical look that has come to be known as ‘Bali Style’.

Great places circle the Bukit Peninsula like a pearl necklace. The Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay Click here in Jimbaran, with its white sand and blue sea, pushes exclusivity while the Ritz Carlton Click here pushes posh. Across the peninsula, the new St Regis Bali Resort Click here and the Conrad Click here are beacons of luxe in Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa. At the Conrad you can plunge off your own patio into the vast pool that encircles the hotel.

Some of the most famous places in Bali can be found in the lush lands around Ubud. Along the Ayung Valley, another Four Seasons Resort Click here blends effortlessly with its verdant surrounds. John Hardy’s village fantasy, Bambu Indah Click here, and the reborn Amandari Click here both head the A-list going north along the valley.

Along the east coast, with its remote beaches and its views, you can be pampered at two excellent places with sweeping views of Nusa Penida: the environmentally conscious Bloo Lagoon Village Click here on a beautiful beach near Padangbai and, near Manggis, the stunning Amankila Click here.

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BALI’S SPIRITUAL CENTRE

Start at Pura Luhur Ulu Watu Click here right at the southern tip of Bali. On the Bukit Peninsula, it’s one of only nine directional temples on the island, as well as being a sea temple honouring the many gods in the waters right around the island. Head east around the peninsula to Pura Mas Suka Click here, with its remote outlook over the Indian Ocean. From here, go north, following the sea temples along the west coast of South Bali – Pura Petitenget Click here in Seminyak is a classic example. Time your visit to Pura Tanah Lot Click here, one of the most important and photographed sea temples, for the morning when crowds are few. One glimpse of its perfect location and you’ll understand why the hordes descend for sunset.

In Ubud Click here, settle in for a few days at one of the amazing hotels and experience Balinese art and culture. It won’t take long to see how beauty of the mind and spirit merge so easily here. You will find the best of Balinese culture both here and in the surrounding villages.

Heading east, Semarapura Click here, commonly known as Klungkung, was once the centre of Bali’s most important kingdom. While here, learn about how the Balinese held out against the Dutch among its fascinating palace ruins. Or, head into the verdant hills and valleys of East Bali to find your own spiritual centre. End your journey in Amed Click here, with its dramatic and contemplative ocean overlooks.

History

   HINDU INFLUENCE
   DUTCH DEALINGS
   WWII
   INDEPENDENCE
   1965 COUP & BACKLASH
   SOEHARTO COMES & GOES
   TERRORISTS & RECOVERY

There are few traces of Stone Age people in Bali, although it’s certain that the island was populated very early in prehistoric times – fossilised humanoid remains from neighbouring Java have been dated to as early as 250,000 years ago. The earliest human artefacts found in Bali are stone tools and earthenware vessels dug up near Cekik in western Bali, estimated to be 3000 years old. Discoveries continue, and you can see exhibits of bones that are estimated to be 4000 years old at the Museum Situs Purbakala Gilimanuk. Artefacts indicate that the Bronze Age began in Bali before 300 BC.

A Short History of Bali –Indonesia’s Hindu Realm, by Robert Pringle, is a thoughtful analysis of Bali’s history from the Bronze Age to the present, with excellent sections on the 2002 bombings and ongoing environmental woes caused by tourism and development.

Little is known of Bali during the period when Indian traders brought Hinduism to the Indonesian archipelago, although it is thought it was embraced on the island by the 7th century AD. The earliest written records are inscriptions on a stone pillar near Sanur, dating from around the 9th century; by that time, Bali had already developed many similarities to the island you find today. Rice, for example, was grown with the help of a complex irrigation system, probably very like the one employed now, and the Balinese had already begun to develop their rich cultural and artistic traditions.

If little is known about the earliest inhabitants of Bali, then even less is known about Lombok until about the 17th century. Early inhabitants are thought to have been Sasaks from a region encompassing today’s India and Myanmar.

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HINDU INFLUENCE

Java began to spread its influence into Bali during the reign of King Airlangga (1019–42), or perhaps even earlier. At the age of 16, when his uncle lost the throne, Airlangga fled into the forests of western Java. He gradually gained support, won back the kingdom once ruled by his uncle and went on to become one of Java’s greatest kings. Airlangga’s mother had moved to Bali and remarried shortly after his birth, so when he gained the throne, there was an immediate link between Java and Bali. It was at this time that the courtly Javanese language known as Kawi came into use among the royalty of Bali, and the rock-cut memorials seen at Gunung Kawi, near Tampaksiring, provide a clear architectural link between Bali and 11th-century Java.

The 14th-century epic poem, Sutasoma, has been given a sparkling new translation by Kate O’Brien. It follows the life of a Javanese prince as he becomes king and defeats the ultimate demon using the mystical beliefs that underpin Balinese faith today.

After Airlangga’s death, Bali remained semi-independent until Kertanagara became king of the Singasari dynasty in Java two centuries later. Kertanagara conquered Bali in 1284, but the period of his greatest power lasted a mere eight years, until he was murdered and his kingdom collapsed. However, the great Majapahit dynasty was founded by his son, Vijaya (or Wijaya). With Java in turmoil, Bali regained its autonomy, and the Pejeng dynasty, centred near modern-day Ubud, rose to great power. In 1343 the legendary Majapahit prime minister, Gajah Mada, defeated the Pejeng king Dalem Bedaulu, and Bali was brought back under Javanese influence.

Although Gajah Mada brought much of the Indonesian archipelago under Majapahit control, this was the furthest extent of their power. The ‘capital’ of the dynasty was moved to Gelgel, in Bali, near modern Semarapura, around the late 14th century, and this was the base for the ‘king of Bali’, the Dewa Agung, for the next two centuries. The Gelgel dynasty in Bali, under Dalem Batur Enggong, extended its power eastwards to the neighbouring island of Lombok and even westwards across the strait to Java.

Kuta was never a part of mainstream Bali. During royal times, the region was a place of exile for malcontents and troublemakers. It was too arid for rice fields, the fishing was barely sustainable and the shore was covered with miles of useless sand…

The collapse of the Majapahit dynasty into weak, decadent petty kingdoms opened the door for the spread of Islam from the trading states of the north coast into the heartland of Java. As the Hindu states fell, many of the intelligentsia fled to Bali. Notable among these was the priest Nirartha, who is credited with introducing many of the complexities of Balinese religion to the island, as well as establishing the chain of ‘sea temples’, which includes Pura Luhur Ulu Watu and Pura Tanah Lot. Court-supported artisans, artists, dancers, musicians and actors also fled to Bali at this time and the island experienced an explosion of cultural activity. The great exodus to Bali was complete by the 16th century.

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DUTCH DEALINGS

The first Europeans to set foot in Bali itself were Dutch seamen in 1597. Setting a tradition that has prevailed to the present day, they fell in love with the island and when Cornelius de Houtman, the ship’s captain, prepared to set sail from the island, two of his crew refused to come with him. At that time, Balinese prosperity and artistic activity, at least among the royalty, was at a peak, and the king who befriended de Houtman had 200 wives and a chariot pulled by two white buffaloes, not to mention a retinue of 50 dwarfs, whose bodies had been bent to resemble the handle of a kris (traditional dagger). By the early 1600s, the Dutch had established trade treaties with Javanese princes and controlled much of the spice trade, but they were interested in profit, not culture, and barely gave Bali a second glance.

The Balinese rulers of Lombok recognised Dutch sovereignty in 1844, however most of the island’s population had other ideas and strife continued for more than 50 years.

In 1710, the ‘capital’ of the Gelgel kingdom was shifted to nearby Klungkung (now called Semarapura), but local discontent was growing; lesser rulers were breaking away, and the Dutch began to move in, using the old strategy of divide and conquer. In 1846 the Dutch used Balinese salvage claims over shipwrecks as a pretext to land military forces in northern Bali, bringing the kingdoms of Buleleng and Jembrana under their control. Their cause was also aided by the various Balinese princes who had gained ruling interests on Lombok and were distracted from matters at home and also unaware that the wily Dutch would use Lombok against Bali.

THE BATTLE FOR LOMBOK

In 1894, the Dutch sent an army to back the Sasak people of eastern Lombok in a rebellion against the Balinese rajah (lord or prince) who controlled Lombok with the support of the western Sasak. The rajah quickly capitulated, but the Balinese crown prince decided to fight on.

The Dutch camp at the Mayura Water Palace was attacked late at night by a combined force of Balinese and western Sasak, forcing the Dutch to take shelter in a temple compound. The Balinese also attacked another Dutch camp further east at Mataram, and soon, the entire Dutch army on Lombok was forced back to Ampenan where, according to one eyewitness, the soldiers ‘were so nervous that they fired madly if so much as a leaf fell off a tree’. These battles resulted in enormous losses of men and arms for the Dutch.

Although the Balinese had won the first battles, they had begun to lose the war. They faced a continuing threat from the eastern Sasak, while the Dutch were soon supported with reinforcements from Java.

The Dutch attacked Mataram a month later, fighting street-to-street against Balinese and western Sasak soldiers and civilians. The Balinese crown prince was killed, and the Balinese retreated to Cakranegara (Cakra), where they had well-armed defensive positions. Cakra was attacked by a large combined force of Dutch and eastern Sasak. Rather than surrender, Balinese men, women and children opted for the suicidal puputan (a warrior’s fight to the death) and were cut down by rifle and artillery fire. Their stronghold, the Mayura Water Palace, was largely destroyed.

The Balinese rajah and a small group of commanders fled to Sasari near Lingsar, and though the rajah surrendered, most of the Balinese held out. In late November 1894, the Dutch attacked Sasari and, again, a large number of Balinese chose the puputan. With the downfall of the dynasty, the local population abandoned its struggle against the Dutch. The conquest of Lombok, considered for decades, had taken the Dutch barely three months. The old rajah died in exile in Batavia (now Jakarta) in 1895.

In 1894, the Dutch, the Balinese and the people of Lombok collided in battles that would set the course of history for the next several decades. See the boxed text, above.

With the north of Bali long under Dutch control and the conquest of Lombok successful, the south was never going to last long. Once again, it was disputes over the ransacking of wrecked ships that gave the Dutch an excuse to move in. In 1904, after a Chinese ship was wrecked off Sanur, Dutch demands that the rajah (lord or prince) of Badung pay 3000 silver dollars in damages were rejected and in 1906 Dutch warships appeared at Sanur.

For much of the 19th century, the Dutch earned enormous amounts of money from the Balinese opium trade. Most of the colonial administrative budget went to promoting the opium industry, which was legal until the 1930s.

The Dutch forces landed despite Balinese opposition and, four days later, had marched 5km to the outskirts of Denpasar. On 20 September 1906, the Dutch mounted a naval bombardment on Denpasar and began their final assault. The three princes of Badung realised that they were completely outnumbered and outgunned, and that defeat was inevitable. Surrender and exile, however, would have been the worst imaginable outcome, so they decided to take the honourable path of a suicidal puputan (a warrior’s fight to the death). First the princes burned their palaces, and then, dressed in their finest jewellery and waving ceremonial golden kris, the rajah led the royalty, priests and courtiers out to face the modern weapons of the Dutch.

THE TOURIST CLASS

Beginning in the 1920s, the Dutch government realised that Bali’s unique culture could be marketed internationally to the growing tourism industry. Relying heavily on images that emphasised the topless habits of Bali’s women, Dutch marketing drew wealthy Western adventurers who landed in the north at today’s Singaraja and were whisked about the island on rigid three-day itineraries that featured canned cultural shows at a government-run tourist hotel in Denpasar. Accounts from the time are ripe with imagery of supposedly culture-seeking Europeans who really just wanted to see a boob or two. Such desires were often thwarted by Balinese women who covered up when they heard the Dutch jalopies approaching.

But some intrepid travellers arrived independently, often at the behest of the small colony of Western artists such as Walter Spies in Ubud (Click here). Two of these visitors were Robert Koke and Louise Garret, an unmarried American couple who had worked in Hollywood before landing in Bali in 1936 as part of a global adventure. Horrified at the stuffy strictures imposed by the Dutch tourism authorities, the pair (who were later married) built a couple of bungalows out of palm leaves and other local materials on the otherwise deserted beach at Kuta. Having recently been to Hawaii on a film shoot, Bob and Louise knew the possibilities of a good beach, which at that point was home to only a few impoverished fishing families. Robert left another lasting impression by teaching local boys to surf.

Word soon spread, and the Kokes were booked solid. Guests came for days, stayed for weeks and told their friends. At first, the Dutch dismissed the Koke’s Kuta Beach Hotel as ‘dirty native huts’, but soon realised that increased numbers of tourists were good for everyone. Other Westerners built their own thatched hotels, complete with the bungalows that were to become a Balinese cliché in the decades ahead.

WWII wiped out both tourism and the hotels (the Kokes barely escaped ahead of the Japanese), but once people began travelling again after the war, Bali’s inherent appeal made its popularity a foregone conclusion. The introduction of jet travel, reasonably affordable tickets and dirt-cheap accommodation on beautiful Kuta Beach gave Bali an endless summer, which began in the 1960s.

In 1987, Louise Koke’s long-forgotten story of the Kuta Beach Hotel was published as Our Hotel in Bali, illustrated with her incisive sketches and her husband’s photographs.

The Dutch implored the Balinese to surrender rather than make their hopeless stand, but their pleas went unheeded and wave after wave of the Balinese nobility marched forward to their death, or turned their kris on themselves. In all, nearly 4000 Balinese died. The Dutch then marched northwest towards Tabanan and took the rajah of Tabanan prisoner – he also committed suicide rather than face the disgrace of exile.

The kingdoms of Karangasem and Gianyar had already capitulated to the Dutch and were allowed to retain some of their powers, but other kingdoms were defeated and their rulers exiled. Finally, in 1908, the rajah of Semarapura followed the lead of Badung, and once more the Dutch faced a puputan. As had happened at Cakranegara on Lombok, the beautiful palace at Semarapura, Taman Kertha Gosa, was largely destroyed.

With this last obstacle disposed of, all of Bali was under Dutch control and became part of the Dutch East Indies. There was little development of an exploitative plantation economy in Bali, and the common people noticed little difference between Dutch rule and rule under the rajahs. On Lombok, conditions were harder as new Dutch taxes took a toll on the populace.

For a different take on Bali, read Geoffrey Robinson’s enlightening revisionist history Bali, The Dark Side of Paradise. He explores the iron Balinese will, which is often lost on outsiders who see only rice farmers and artisans.

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WWII

In 1942, the Japanese landed unopposed in Bali at Sanur (most Indonesians saw the Japanese, at first, as anticolonial liberators). The Japanese established headquarters in Denpasar and Singaraja, and their occupation became increasingly harsh for the Balinese. When the Japanese left in August 1945 after their defeat in WWII, the island was suffering from extreme poverty. The occupation had fostered several paramilitary, nationalist and anticolonial organisations that were ready to fight the returning Dutch.

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INDEPENDENCE

In August 1945, just days after the Japanese surrender, Soekarno, the most prominent member of the coterie of nationalist activists, proclaimed the nation’s independence. It took four years to convince the Dutch that they were not going to get their great colony back. In a virtual repeat of the puputan nearly 50 years earlier, a Balinese resistance group called Tentara Keamanan Rakyat (People’s Security Force) was wiped out by the Dutch in the battle of Marga in western Bali on 20 November 1946. The Dutch finally recognised Indonesia’s independence in 1949 – Indonesians celebrate 17 August 1945 as their Independence Day though.

Bali’s airport is named for I Gusti Ngurah Rai, the national hero who died leading the resistance against the Dutch at Marga in 1946. The text of a letter he wrote in response to Dutch demands to surrender ends with ‘freedom or death!’

At first, Bali, Lombok and the rest of Indonesia’s eastern islands were grouped together in the unwieldy province of Nusa Tenggara. In 1958 the central government recognised this folly and created three new governmental regions from the one, with Bali getting its own and Lombok becoming part of Nusa Tenggara Barat.

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1965 COUP & BACKLASH

Independence was not an easy path for Indonesia to follow. A European-style parliamentary assembly was mired in internecine squabbles, with Soekarno as the beloved figurehead president. When Soekarno assumed more direct control in 1959 after several violent rebellions, he proved to be as inept a peacetime administrator as he was inspirational as a revolutionary leader. In the early 1960s, as Soekarno faltered, the army, communists, and other groups struggled for supremacy. On 30 September 1965, an attempted coup – blamed on the Partai Komunis Indonesia (PKI, or Communist Party) – led to Soekarno’s downfall. General Soeharto (he didn’t get the Muhammad moniker until the late ’80s) emerged as the leading figure in the armed forces, displaying great military and political skill in suppressing the coup. The PKI was outlawed and a wave of anticommunist reprisals followed, escalating into a wholesale massacre of suspected communists throughout the Indonesian archipelago.

THE 1963 ERUPTION

The most disastrous volcanic eruption in Bali in 100 years took place in 1963, when Gunung Agung blew its top in no uncertain manner at a time of considerable prophetic and political importance.

Eka Dasa Rudra, the greatest of all Balinese sacrifices and an event that takes place only every 100 years on the Balinese calendar, was to culminate on 8 March 1963. It had been well over 100 Balinese years since the last Eka Dasa Rudra, but there was dispute among the priests as to the correct and most favourable date.

Naturally, Pura Besakih was a focal point for the festival, but Gunung Agung was acting strangely as final preparations were made in late February. Despite some qualms, political pressures forced the ceremonies forward, even as ominous rumblings continued.

On 17 March, Gunung Agung exploded. The catastrophic eruption killed more than 1000 people (some estimate 2000) and destroyed entire villages – 100,000 people lost their homes. Streams of lava and hot volcanic mud poured right down to the sea at several places, completely covering roads and isolating the eastern end of Bali for some time. The entire island was covered in ash.

In Bali, the events had an added local significance as the main national political organisations, the Partai Nasional Indonesia (PNI, Nationalist Party) and the PKI, crystallised existing differences between traditionalists, who wanted to maintain the old caste system, and radicals, who saw the caste system as repressive and who were urging land reform. After the failed coup, religious traditionalists in Bali led the witch-hunt for the ‘godless communists’. Eventually, the military stepped in to control the anticommunist purge, but no one in Bali was untouched by the killings, estimated at between 50,000 and 100,000 out of a population of about two million, a percentage many times higher than on Java. Many tens of thousands more died on Lombok.

Bali and the Tourist Industry, by David Shavit, is a highly entertaining look at how tourism developed in Bali between the wars with the help of a menagerie of local and Western characters.

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SOEHARTO COMES & GOES

Following the failed coup in 1965 and its aftermath, Soeharto established himself as president and took control of the government, while Soekarno was shoved aside, spending his final days under house arrest in the hills above Jakarta. Under Soeharto’s ‘New Order’ government, Indonesia looked to the West for its foreign policy, and Western-educated economists set about balancing budgets, controlling inflation and attracting foreign investment.

Politically, Soeharto ensured that Golkar (not officially a political party), with strong support from the army, became the dominant political force. Other political parties were banned or crippled by the disqualification of candidates and the disenfranchisement of voters. Regular elections maintained the appearance of a national democracy, but until 1999, Golkar won every election hands down. This period was also marked by great economic development in Bali and later on Lombok as social stability and maintenance of a favourable investment climate took precedence over democracy.

In Praise of Kuta, by Hugh Mabbett, recounts Kuta’s early history and its frenetic modern development. Written in the 1980s, it recalls a time when Kuta was reviled as a hippie hang-out.

In early 1997, Southeast Asia began to suffer a severe economic crisis, and within the year, the Indonesian currency (the rupiah) had all but collapsed and the economy was on the brink of bankruptcy. To help deal with the continuing economic crisis, Soeharto agreed to the International Monetary Fund’s (IMF) demand to increase the government-subsidised price of electricity and petrol, resulting in immediate increases in the cost of public transport, rice and other food staples. Riots broke out across Indonesia and although Bali and Lombok were spared most of the violence, their tourism-dependent economies were battered.

Unable to cope with the escalating crisis, Soeharto resigned in 1998, after 32 years in power. His protégé, Dr Bacharuddin Jusuf Habibie, became president. Though initially dismissed as a Soeharto crony, he made the first notable steps towards opening the door to real democracy, such as freeing the press from government supervision. However, he failed to tackle most of the critical issues dogging Indonesia such as corruption, and poorly handled East Timor’s rocky path towards independence.

LOCAL RULE BALI STYLE

Within Bali’s government, the most important body is also the most local. More than 3500 neighbourhood organisations called banjar wield enormous power. Comprising the married men of a given area (somewhere between 50 and 500), a banjar controls most community activities, whether it’s planning for a temple ceremony or making important land-use decisions. Decisions are reached by consensus and woe to a member who shirks his duties. The penalty can be fines or worse: banishment from the banjar.

Although women and even children can belong to the banjar, only men attend the meetings where important decisions are taken. Women, who often own the businesses in tourist areas, have to communicate through their husband to exert their influence. One thing that outsiders in a neighbourhood quickly learn is that one does not cross the banjar. Entire streets of restaurants and bars have been closed by order of the banjar after it was determined that neighbourhood concerns over matters such as noise were not being addressed.

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TERRORISTS & RECOVERY

In 1999 Indonesia’s parliament met to elect a new president. The frontrunner was Megawati Sukarnoputri, whose party received the largest number of votes at the election. Megawati was enormously popular in Bali, partly because of family connections (her paternal grandmother was Balinese) and partly because her party was essentially secular (the mostly Hindu Balinese are very concerned about any growth in Muslim fundamentalism). However, the newly empowered Islamist parties helped to shift the balance of power. By astutely playing both the Islam card and using his long-standing relationship with Golkar leaders, Abdurrahman Wahid, the moderate, intellectual head of Indonesia’s largest Muslim organisation, emerged as president.

Bali Blues, by Jeremy Allan, tells of the struggle by locals to survive in Kuta during the year following the 2002 terrorist attacks. Using composite characters, it explores a side of Bali rarely seen by tourists.

Outraged supporters of Megawati took to the streets of Java and Bali. In Bali, the demonstrations were typically more disruptive than violent – trees were felled to block the main Nusa Dua road, and government buildings were damaged in Denpasar and Singaraja. The election of Megawati as vice-president quickly defused the situation.

On Lombok, however, religious and political tensions spilled over in early 2000 when a sudden wave of attacks starting in Mataram burned Chinese and Christian businesses and homes across the island. The impact on tourism was immediate and severe, and the island is only now emerging from this shameful episode.

As with his predecessor Soekarno, Wahid’s moral stature and vast intellect did not translate into administrative competence. His open contempt towards squabbling parliamentarians did little to garner him much-needed support. After 21 months of growing ethnic, religious and regional conflicts, parliament had enough ammunition to recall Wahid’s mandate and hand the presidency to Megawati.

Indonesia’s cultural wars continued and certainly played a role in the October 2002 bombings in Kuta. More than 200 tourists and Balinese were killed, and hundreds more were injured. Besides the obvious enormous monetary loss (tourism immediately fell by more than half), the blasts fuelled the ever-present suspicions the Hindu Balinese hold regarding Muslims (that the Muslim Javanese are trying to muscle in on the profitable Bali scene, and the Muslims from Indonesia are, in general, looking to show prejudice against non-Muslim Balinese) and shattered the myth of isolation enjoyed by many locals. See the boxed text, opposite.

With staff reviews, hard-to-find titles and stellar recommendations, the place for books about Bali is Ganesha Books in Ubud. The website (www.ganeshabooksbali.com) offers a vast selection and the shop does mail orders.

Still, tourism numbers had almost recovered by October 2005 when three suicide bombers killed 20 people. Again, tourism numbers suffered and the entire island’s economy took a hit.

On the national front, the elections of 2004 managed to dispel fears and were remarkably peaceful. Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (popularly known as ‘SBY’) beat incumbent Megawati Sukarnoputri. A former general and government minister, SBY promised strong and enlightened leadership. He has been put to the test numerous times since, with the tsunami that devastated Aceh in 2004, the spread of bird flu and the volcano eruption and tsunami that hit Java in 2006. Navigating the many competing interests in such a vast nation has proved challenging. Recently, he has bowed to hardliners who want to pass a pornography bill that many fear would crush Balinese culture.

THE BALI BOMBINGS

On Saturday, 12 October 2002, two bombs exploded on Kuta’s bustling Jl Legian. The first blew out the front of Paddy’s Bar. A few seconds later, a far more powerful bomb obliterated the Sari Club. The blast and fireballs that followed destroyed or damaged neighbouring clubs, pubs, shops and houses.

Close to midnight on the busiest night of the week, the area was packed. More than 300 people from at least 23 countries were injured. The number dead, including those unaccounted for, reached over 200, although the exact number will probably never be known. Many injured Balinese made their way back to their villages, where, for lack of decent medical treatment, they died.

Indonesian authorities eventually laid the blame for the blasts on Jemaah Islamiyah, an Islamic terrorist group. Dozens were arrested and many were sentenced to jail, including three who received the death penalty (which was carried out in November 2008 after many delays). But most received relatively light terms, including Abu Bakar Bashir, a radical cleric who many thought was behind the explosions. His convictions on charges relating to the bombings were overturned by the Indonesian supreme court in 2006, enraging many in Bali and Australia.

On 1 October 2005, three suicide bombers blew themselves up: one in a restaurant on Kuta Sq and two more at beachfront seafood cafés in Jimbaran. It was again the work of Jemaah Islamiyah, and although documents found later stated that the attacks were targeted at tourists, 15 of the 20 who died were Balinese and Javanese employees of the places bombed.

By 2007, Bali was back in the tourism business big-time. The backbone of the local economy recovered, scores of new resorts were under construction and visitors numbers looked set to hit record numbers.

TIMELINE

• 50 million BC A permanent gap in the Earth’s crust forms between what becomes Asia and Australia. Now called the Wallace Line, it keeps Australian species from crossing to Bali until the invention of cheap Bintang specials.
• 2000 BC A Balinese gentleman passes away. One of the first known inhabitants of the island, he rests peacefully until his bones are found and placed on display in Gilimanuk.
• 7th century Indian traders bring Hinduism to Bali. Little is known about what exactly was traded although some speculate that they left with lots of wooden carvings of penises and bootleg lontar books Click here.
• 9th century A stone-carver – the first of many! – creates an account in Sanskrit of now-long-forgotten military victories. Bali’s oldest dated artefact is proof of early Hindu influence and ends up hidden in Sanur.
• 1019 A future king, Airlangga, is born in Bali. Setbacks soon force him to live in the jungles of Java until he gains political power and becomes king of the two islands, unifying both cultures.
• 1100 Give or take a few years, the amazing, incredible and stupendous series of 10 7m-high statues are carved from stone cliffs in a river valley north of Ubud. About 900 years later, Unesco notices…
• 1292 Bail gains complete independence from Java with the death of Kertanagara, a powerful king who had ruled the two islands for eight years. Power shifts frequently between the islands: ‘If it’s Tuesday, we must be Javanese!’
• 1343 Maybe it was a Tuesday! The legendary Majapahit prime minister, Gajah Mada, brings Bali back under Javanese control. For the next two centuries, the royal court is just south of today’s Semarapura.
• 1520 The last bit of Java is converted to Islam, leaving Bali in isolation as a Hindu island. Priests and artists move to Bali, concentrating and strengthening the island’s culture against conversion.
• 1546 The Hindu priest Nirartha arrives in Bali. He transforms religion into what is still practised today and builds temples by the dozen, including Pura Rambut Siwi, Pura Tanah Lot and Pura Luhur Ulu Watu.
• 1597 A Dutch expedition arrives off Kuta. Most have died from disease, murder and piracy. A contemporary describes the skipper, Cornelius de Houtman, as a ‘braggart and a scoundrel’. If only he’d anchored off Seminyak.
• 1830 The Balinese slave trade ends. For over two centuries, squabbling Balinese royal houses helped finance their wars by selling some of their most comely subjects, an especially horrific exploitation of classic Balinese beauty.
• 1856 Mads Lange, a Danish trader, dies mysteriously in Kuta. For 16 years he earned a fortune selling Balinese goods to ships anchored off the beach. His death is put down to poisoning by jealous rivals.
• 1908 The Balinese royalty go out with colour and flair. Wearing their best dress and armed with ‘show’ daggers, they march headlong into Dutch gunfire in a suicidal puputan or ‘warrior’s death’ in Klungkung (today’s Semarapura; ).
• 1912 A German, Gregor Krause, photographs many beautiful Balinese woman topless. WWI intervenes, but in 1920 an ‘art book’ of photographs is published and Dutch steamers docking in Singaraja now bring tourists.
• 1925 The greatest Balinese dancer of the modern age, Mario, first performs the Kebyar Duduk, his enduring creation. From a stooped position, the dancer moves as if in a trance to the haunting melody of gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestra).
• 1936 Americans Robert and Louise Koke build a hotel of thatched bungalows on then-deserted Kuta Beach. Gone is stuffy, starched tourism, replaced by fun in the sun followed by a cold beer.
• 1946 Freedom fighter Ngurah Rai dies with the rest of his men at Marga but takes a lot of the Dutch army with him. This puputan slays the colonial spirit and soon, Indonesia is independent.
• 1963 The sacred volcano Gunung Agung erupts, taking out a fair bit of East Bali, killing a thousand or more and leaving 100,000 homeless. The disastrous effects still echo decades later (opposite).
• 1965 Indonesia’s long-running and bitter rivalry between communists and conservatives erupts after a supposed coup-attemptby the former. The latter triumphs and in the ensuing purges, tens of thousands are killed in Bali.
• 1970 A girl ekes out a living selling candy on a path to the beach in Kuta. Surfers offer advice, she posts a menu, then she builds a hut and calls it Made’s Warung. She prospers Click here.
• 1979 Australian Kim Bradley, impressed by the gnarly surfing style of locals, encourages them to start a club. Sixty do just that (good on an island where people fear the water). Today, competitions attract thousands Click here.
• 1998 Soeharto, who always had close ties to Bali, resigns as president after 32 years. His family retains control of several Bali resorts, including the thirsty Pecatu Indah resort Click here.
• 2000 Rioting elsewhere in Indonesia spreads to Lombok and hundreds of homes and businesses belonging to Chinese, Christians and Balinese are looted and burned. The worst begins after a Muslim-sponsored rally to decry violence turns ugly.
• 2002 Bombs in Kuta on October 22kill more than 200, many at the Sari Club. Bali’s economy is crushed as tourists stay away and there is economic devastation across the island. The memory remains raw for many.
• 2005 Schapelle Corby is convicted of drug smuggling and sentenced to 20 years in Kerobokan prison Click here. A public sensation, the waves of tawdry admissions snuff out public support and enrich Australian media conglomerates.
• 2008 A decade’s troubles forgotten, Bali coasts to a record 2 million visitors for the year. The old formula proves as popular as ever: fun in the sun followed by a cold beer.

The Culture

   REGIONAL IDENTITY
   RELIGION
   RICE FARMING
   LIFESTYLE
   ECONOMY
   POPULATION & MULTICULTURALISM
   MEDIA
   ARTS

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REGIONAL IDENTITY

Bali

Ask any traveller what they love about Bali and, most times, ‘culture’ – sometimes expressed as ‘the people’ – will top their list. Since the 1920s, when the Dutch used images of bare-breasted Balinese maidens to lure tourists and A-list celebrities like Charlie Chaplin, Noel Coward and anthropologist Margaret Mead, Bali has embodied the mystique and glamour of an exotic paradise. Countless books, films and poems, including Coward’s famous but somewhat cynical verse (Click here), have eulogised the traditions and rituals rooted in this Hindu rice-farming culture.

While Bali’s tourism arrivals slumped some 60% after the 2002 terrorist attack, they’re now back to record levels.

For all the romanticism, there is a harsher reality. For most Balinese, as for Lombok’s Sasaks, life remains a hand-to-mouth existence and the idea of culture can sometimes seem misplaced as overzealous touts on streets and beaches test your patience. Click here for suggestions on responding to these offers.

But for all the romanticism, there’s also some truth to this idea. There is no other place in the world like Bali, not even in Indonesia. Being the only surviving Hindu island in the world’s largest Muslim country, its distinctive culture is worn like a badge of honour by a fiercely proud people. After all, it’s only a hundred years ago that 4000 Balinese royalty, dressed in their finest, walked into the gunfire of the Dutch army rather than surrender and become colonial subjects Click here.

True, development has changed the landscape and prompted endless debates about the impact of the displacement of an agricultural society by a tourism services industry. There are nightclubs that feature stuntmen bungy jumping on motorcycles Click here, and the upmarket spas, clubs, boutiques and restaurants in Seminyak might have you mistaking hedonism for the local religion, not Hinduism. But scratch the surface and you’ll find that Bali’s soul remains unchanged.

The island’s creative heritage is everywhere you look, and the harmonious dedication to religion permeates every aspect of society, underpinning the strong sense of community. There are temples in every house, office and village, on mountains and beaches, in rice fields, trees, caves, cemeteries, lakes and rivers. Yet religious activity is not limited to places of worship. It can occur anywhere, sometimes smack-bang in the middle of peak-hour traffic.

No matter where you stay, you’ll witness women making daily offerings around their family temple and their home, hotels, shops and other public places. You’re also sure to see vibrant ceremonies in full swing, where whole villages turn out in ceremonial dress and police close the roads for a spectacular procession that can stretch for hundreds of metres – men play the gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestra) while women elegantly balance magnificent tall offerings of fruit and cakes on their heads.

Island of Bali, by Miguel Covarrubias, written in the 1930s, is still a fantastic introduction to the romance and seduction of the island and its culture.

There’s nothing manufactured about what you see. Dance and musical performances at hotels are among the few events ‘staged’ for tourists, but they do actually mirror the way in which Balinese traditionally welcome visitors, whom they refer to as tamu (guests). Otherwise, it’s just the Balinese going about their daily life as they would without spectators. In fact, it would no doubt be more enjoyable without the gawking and happy snaps by anonymous foreigners.

Luckily, the Balinese are famously tolerant and hospitable towards other cultures, though they rarely travel themselves, such is the importance of their village and family ties, not to mention the financial cost. If anything, they’re bemused by all the attention, which reinforces their pride; the general sense is, whatever we’re doing, it must be right to entice millions of people to leave their homes for ours.

They’re unfailingly friendly, love a chat and can get quite personal (see below). English is widely spoken (less so on Lombok) but they love to hear tourists attempt Bahasa Indonesia, or, better still, throw in a Balinese phrase like sing ken ken (no worries) and you’ll make a friend for life. They have a fantastic sense of humour and their easygoing nature is hard to ruffle. They generally find displays of temper distasteful and laugh at ‘emotional’ foreigners who are quick to anger. They are always willing to help and will fall over themselves to get to your kids, making Bali an extremely family-friendly destination. You do have to wonder what they must think of their guests sometimes though, when they feel the need to put up signs declaring ‘Sorry, No Nude Shopping’ at a big new hypermarket in Kuta. Clearly even Balinese tolerance has its limits!

For tips on respecting traditions and acting appropriately while in Bali and Lombok, see the boxed text,.

Lombok

While Lombok’s culture and language is often likened to Bali, this does neither island justice. True, Lombok’s language, animist rituals and music and dance are reminiscent of the Hindu and Buddhist kingdoms that once ruled Indonesia, and of its time under Balinese rule in the 18th century. But the majority of Lombok’s Sasak tribes are Muslim – they have very distinct traditions, dress, food and architecture, and have fought hard to keep them. While the Sasak peasants in western Lombok lived relatively harmoniously under Balinese feudal control, the aristocracy in the east remained hostile and led the rebellion with the Dutch that finally ousted their Balinese lords in the late 1800s. To this day, the Sasaks take great joy in competing in heroic trials of strength, such as the stick-fighting matches held every August near Tetebatu.

Bali is Indonesia’s number one tourist destination, accounting for around one-third of the national market.

Lombok remains much poorer and less developed than Bali, and is generally more conservative. Its Sasak culture may not be as prominently displayed as Bali’s Hinduism, but that can be its own reward as you peel away the layers.

SMALL TALK Marion Carroll

‘Where do you stay?’ ‘Where do you come from?’ ‘Where are you going?’ You’ll hear these questions over and over from your super-friendly Balinese hosts. While Westerners can find it intrusive, it’s just Balinese small talk and a reflection of their communal culture; they want to see where you fit in and change your status from stranger to friend.

Saying you’re staying ‘over there’ or in a general area is fine, but expect follow-ups to get increasingly personal. ‘Are you married?’ Even if you’re not, it’s easiest to say you are. Next will be ‘Do you have children?’ The best answer is affirmative. Never say you don’t want any. ‘Belum’ (not yet) is also an appropriate response, which will likely spark a giggle and an ‘Ah, still trying!’.

On Lombok, Sasak language does not have greetings such as ‘good morning’ or ‘good afternoon’. Instead, they often greet each other with ‘How’s your family?’. Don’t be surprised if a complete stranger asks about yours!

When I first moved to Indonesia, I quickly realised that honesty was over-rated. People had difficulty understanding that a single woman could enjoy living alone in a strange country, and I found it much easier to be married with two children, the ‘perfect’ family unit. But be warned: somewhere along the line, my lies became a reality. The Balinese concept of karma has a lot to answer for!

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RELIGION

Hinduism

Bali’s official religion is Hindu, but it’s far too animistic to be considered in the same vein as Indian Hinduism. The Balinese worship the trinity of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu, three aspects of the one (invisible) god, Sanghyang Widi, as well as the dewa (ancestral gods) and village founders; gods of the earth, fire, water and mountains; gods of fertility, rice, technology and books; and demons who inhabit the world underneath the ocean. They share the Indian belief in karma and reincarnation, but much less emphasis is attached to other Indian customs. There is no ‘untouchable caste’, arranged marriages are very rare, and there are no child marriages.

The ancient Hindu swastika seen all over Bali is a symbol of harmony with the universe. The German Nazis used a version where the arms were always bent in a clockwise direction.

Bali’s unusual version of Hinduism was formed after the great Majapahit Hindu kingdom that once ruled Indonesia evacuated to Bali as Islam spread across the archipelago. While the Bali Aga retreated to the hills to escape this new influence, the rest of the population simply adapted it for themselves, overlaying the Majapahit faith on their animist beliefs incorporated with Buddhist influences.

The most sacred site on the island is Gunung Agung, home to Pura Besakih and frequent ceremonies involving anywhere from hundreds to sometimes thousands of people. Smaller ceremonies are held across the island every day to appease the gods and placate the demons to ensure balance between good (dharma) and evil (adharma) forces. Click here for more on how ceremonies shape everyday life in Bali.

Islam

Islam is a minority religion in Bali; most followers are Javanese immigrants or descendants of seafaring people from Sulawesi.

The majority of Lombok’s Sasak people practise a moderate version of Islam, as in other parts of Indonesia. It was brought to the island by Gujarati merchants via the Celebes (now Sulawesi) and Java in the 13th century. The Sasaks follow the Five Pillars of Islam; the pillars decree that there is no god but Allah and Mohammad is His prophet, and that believers should pray five times a day, give alms to the poor, fast during the month of Ramadan and make the pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in their lifetime. However, in contrast to other Islamic countries, Muslim women are not segregated, head coverings are not compulsory, and polygamy is rare. In addition, many Sasaks still practise ancestor and spirit worship; a stricter version of Islam is beginning to emerge in east Lombok.

Most villages have three temples: pura desa (civil temple) for main celebrations, pura puseh (temple of ‘origin’) dedicated to the village founder, and pura dalem (temple of the dead) in the cemetery.

Wektu Telu

Believed to have originated in Bayan, north Lombok, Wektu Telu is an indigenous religion unique to Lombok. Now followed by a minority of Sasaks, it was the majority religion in northern Lombok until as recently as 1965, when Indonesia’s incoming president Soeharto decreed that all Indonesians must follow an official religion. Indigenous beliefs such as Wektu Telu were not recognised. Many followers thus state their official religion as Muslim, while practising Wektu traditions and rituals. Bayan remains a stronghold of Wektu Telu; you can spot believers by their sapu puteq (white headbands) and white flowing robes.

Wektu means ‘result’ in Sasak and telu means ‘three’, and it probably signifies the complex mix of Balinese Hinduism, Islam and animism that the religion is. The tenet is that all important aspects of life are underpinned by a trinity. Like orthodox Muslims, they believe in Allah and that Muhammad is Allah’s prophet – they pray three times a day and honour just three days of fasting for Ramadan. Followers of Wektu Telu bury their dead with their heads facing Mecca and all public buildings have a prayer corner facing Mecca, but they do not make pilgrimages there. Similarly to Balinese Hinduism, they believe the spiritual world is firmly linked to the natural – Gunung Rinjani is the most revered site.

EARLY WAKEUP

Sleep in and you’ll miss it. Bali, that is. At least, that’s the opinion of one of the island’s most renowned art collectors and cultural ambassadors, the self-made Anak Agung Rai. Clawing his way up from a humble childhood working in his father’s rice fields, he founded the Agung Rai Museum of Art and attached cultural resort in Ubud (Click here).

‘Can you imagine, the best beauty of Bali is missed by most visitors, who wake at 9am? That’s too late,’ Rai laments. ‘The first light and mist represent the aura of Bali, the healing.’

While Rai is alarmed by the disappearance of rice fields for relentless villa development, particularly in South Bali, he entices visitors to venture beyond the main towns to experience village life much as it was before tourism displaced the agricultural economy.

‘You don’t have to go far. Just get out of bed at daybreak and jalan jalan (stroll) through the village as people go about their lives, and you will feel it. It makes your hair stand on end. It’s still like when I was 10-years-old,’ he says.

Rai, who stopped attending school at 14 to help his father, began collecting art as a teenager. Ubud was much more isolated then and he would walk 9km every day to catch the bus to Denpasar to sell paintings to backpackers, and then walk back again every evening. He astutely invested his income to gradually build his collection, and he now boasts one of the island’s most esteemed museums and galleries. Rai still remains proud of his roots and welcomes visitors to join what he calls his free ‘Golden Hour’ tour every morning. The early walk always follows a different route through quaint villages near Ubud, providing an unmatched glimpse of the rituals, architecture and hypnotic beauty of Bali’s rice-farming heritage. Snapshots of what you may see:

• palm-lined dirt tracks winding through a dazzling green landscape of terraced fields, whose impact is doubled by their stunning reflections in the paddies;
• wiry, tanned farmers riding ancient bicycles to their fields, or leading their ducks on foot, scythes in hand;
• farmers sauntering home during a downpour, using enormous banana leaves as umbrellas;
• young women making offerings around their village, tending to babies and cooking;
• old women trudging up and down steep roads with baskets or sacks balanced on their heads, perhaps heading to market or taking snacks to their husbands in the fields;
• children walking or cycling to school, or helping with chores in the village;
• people bathing by the side of the road, uninhibited, as they believe they are invisible whilst doing so;
• the biggest smiles from everyone you meet.

For some, setting the alarm for the crack of dawn while on holiday may sound criminal, but if you can drag yourself out of bed, you won’t regret it. You can always rely on Bali’s strong coffee to get you through the day. Better still, take a nanna nap in the afternoon, like the Balinese do, while other tourists head out in the hot sun.

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RICE FARMING

Rice cultivation is the backbone of Bali’s strict communal society. Traditionally, each family makes just enough to satisfy their own needs and offers to the gods, and perhaps a little to sell at market. The island’s most popular deity is Dewi Sri, goddess of agriculture, fertility and success, and every stage of cultivation encompasses rituals to intone gratitude and prevent a poor crop, bad weather, pollution or theft by mice and birds.

The complexities of tilling and irrigating terraces in mountainous terrain requires that all villagers share the work and responsibility. Under a centuries-old system, the four mountain lakes and criss-crossing rivers irrigate fields via a network of canals, dams, bamboo pipes and tunnels honed through rock. More than 1200 subak associations oversee this democratic supply of water, and every farmer must belong to his local subak, which in turn is the foundation of the powerful banjar of each village. The Balinese also introduced the subak system into western Lombok in the 1700s. For more on the life of rice farmers, see the boxed text,.

Bali’s government has called for all nations to embrace a Global Day of Silence inspired by the island’s own annual Nyepi tradition (see the boxed text,), in a bid to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Visit www.worldsilentday.org for more information.

Although Bali’s civil make-up has changed with tourism from a mostly homogenous island of farmers to a heterogenous population with diverse activities and lifestyles, the collective responsibility rooted in rice farming continues to dictate the moral code behind daily life, even in the urban centres. Every married male belongs to their banjar, a local division of a village, which oversees religious, political and economic decisions, and neighbours gladly work together on tasks such as house renovations. For more on banjar, see the boxed text,.

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LIFESTYLE

The pace of life in Bali is gloriously sloooow. So slow that before international time standards were adopted, the longest measure of time was akejepan barong, literally ‘Barong’s wink’. Since a Barong mask never winks, this is akin to saying ‘don’t hold your breath’. A common maxim in both Bali and Lombok is jam karet (rubber time), which you may associate with tailors and craftsmen when you go to collect your goods, or restaurants as you wait for your meal. Rushing them is futile, so you may as well sit back and enjoy the break.

Nothing, not even monetary gain, takes priority over community and religion. The Balinese don’t work long hours, but neither do they have much time off. You may see them just hanging around a lot, but their whole lives centre on their village temple and their household, within the framework of their complex Hindu calendar (see the boxed text,).

As they’re usually preparing for or taking part in one ceremony or another, the idea of travelling to a resort island for sun, surf, shopping and spa treatments is quite foreign to Balinese. All this responsibility may seem daunting, but to the them, it’s the unifying centre of their life and a source of much entertainment, socialisation and festivity. The vibrant rituals are also a major factor behind what makes the island such a captivating destination – something to remember next time you’re stuck in traffic and have to detour around a ceremony!

Take Me to Paradise, by Jan Cornall, is a witty account of a divorced mother’s quest to find meaning and enlightenment in Ubud. It’s a light read with humorous monologues and colourful depictions of travelling in Bali.

Family Ties

Through their family temple, Balinese have an intense spiritual connection to their home. And if you thought your mother-in-law was too close at a distance of 800km, consider this: as many as five generations share a Balinese home, in-laws and all. Grandparents, cousins, aunties, uncles and various distant relatives all live together. When the sons marry, they don’t move out, their wives move in. Similarly, when daughters marry, they live with their in-laws, assuming household and child-bearing duties. Because of this, Balinese consider a son more valuable than a daughter. Not only will his family look after them in their old age, but he will inherit the home and perform the necessary rites after they die to free their souls for reincarnation, so they do not become wandering ghosts.

Men play a big role in village affairs and helping to care for children, and only men plant and tend to the rice fields. Women are the real workhorses in Bali, from manual labour jobs (you’ll see them carrying baskets of wet cement or bricks on their heads) to market stalls and almost every job in tourism. In fact, their traditional role of caring for people and preparing food means that women have established many successful shops and cafés. In between all of these tasks, women also prepare daily offerings for the family temple and house, and often extra offerings for upcoming ceremonies; their hands are never idle.

MAJOR TEMPLES

Bali has thousands of temples, but some of the most important are listed here, and shown on the colour highlights map. Attending ceremonies at these temples is a major obligation for Balinese and a core part of their lifestyle.

Directional Temples

Some temples are so important they are deemed to belong to the whole island rather than particular communities. There are nine kahyangan jagat, or directional temples, in Bali.

• Pura Besakih Click here Besakih, East Bali
• Pura Goa Lawah Click here Near Padangbai, East Bali
• Pura Lempuyang Click here Near Tirta Gangga, East Bali
• Pura Luhur Batukau Click here Gunung Batukau, Central Mountains
• Pura Luhur Ulu Watu Click here Ulu Watu, South Bali
• Pura Masceti Click here Near Gianyar, East Bali
• Pura Sambu Click here Gunung Agung, East Bali
• Pura Ulun Danu Batur Click here Batur, Central Mountains
• Pura Ulun Danu Bratan Click here Candikuning (Danau Bratan), Central Mountains

Most of these are well known and accessible, but some are rarely seen by visitors to Bali. Pura Masceti, on the coast east of Sanur, for example, is easily reached on the coast road but seldom visited, and it’s an ambitious walk to remote Pura Lempuyang.

Sea Temples

The 16th-century Majapahit priest Nirartha founded a chain of temples to honour the sea gods. Each was intended to be within sight of the next, and several have dramatic locations on the south coast. From the west, they include the following:

• Pura Gede Perancak Click here Where Nirartha first landed
• Pura Rambut Siwi Click here On a wild stretch of the west coast
• Pura Tanah Lot Click here The very popular island temple
• Pura Luhur Ulu Watu Click here A spectacular cliff-top position (also one of the nine directional temples)
• Pura Mas Suka Click here At the very south of the Bukit Peninsula
• Pura Sakenan Click here Pulau Serangan, in southern Bali
• Pura Pulaki Click here Near Pemuteran, in northern Bali

Other Important Temples

Some other temples have particular importance because of their location, spiritual function or architecture. They include the following:

• Pura Beji Click here In Sangsit, northern Bali, this temple is dedicated to the goddess Dewi Sri, who looks after irrigated rice fields.
• Pura Dalem Penetaran Ped Click here On Nusa Penida, this temple is dedicated to the demon Jero Gede Macaling, and is a place of pilgrimage for those seeking protection from evil.
• Pura Kehen Click here This fine hillside temple is in Bangli, eastern Bali
• Pura Maduwe Karang Click here An agricultural temple on the north coast, this temple is famous for its spirited bas-relief, including one of a bicycle rider.
• Pura Pusering Jagat Click here One of the famous temples at Pejeng, near Ubud, this temple has an enormous bronze drum.
• Pura Taman Ayun Click here This large and imposing state temple is at Mengwi, northwest of Denpasar.
• Pura Tirta Empul Click here The beautiful temple at Tampaksiring, with springs and bathing pools at the source of Sungai Pakerisan (Pakerisan River), is north of Ubud.

Busy tourist areas in Bali feature the same hassles as large towns anywhere –traffic, noise, pollution and various social ills. Gambling on cockfights is a major problem and the main jail is overcrowded with convicted drug traffickers and dealers, including Australians and other foreigners. However, the village lifestyle remains strong in rural areas; even in urban centres, the sense of tradition is evident, albeit with modern variations.

Bali’s airport, main highway and a university are named after revered national resistance leader I Gusti Ngurah Rai, who died in a puputan (fight to the death) against the Dutch at Marga in 1946.

Dagang (mobile traders) still carry baskets of snacks and drinks around town, but these days they mostly use motorbikes rather than go by foot. Motorbikes are an invaluable mode of transport in other ways too: they carry everything from floor mats and children’s toys, to towers of bananas and rice sacks headed to the market, from whole families in full ceremonial dress going to the temple to bare-chested surfers. The Balinese relaxed manner extends to their driving. Seemingly oblivious to trucks, buses and cars roaring past, they will simultaneously chat on their phones or exchange pleasantries with a friend meandering alongside.

Black magic is still a potent force and spiritual healers known as balian are consulted in times of illness and strife. There are plenty of stories floating around about the power of this magic. The last thing a shopkeeper in Denpasar remembers before being robbed is being put under a spell which he was powerless to resist. Disputes between relatives or neighbours are also often blamed on curses, as are tragic deaths. In once case, a Gianyar man who lost his second wife and new baby during child-birth blames their deaths on a curse from his first wife; shortly before she died, he had promised he would never remarry. In a bid to overcome this curse, he commissioned a priest to perform ngulapin (cleansing) rituals (see opposite).

OFFERINGS

Tourists in Bali may be welcomed as honoured guests, but the real VIPs are the gods, ancestors, spirits and demons. They are presented with offerings throughout each day to show respect and gratitude, or perhaps to bribe a demon into being less mischievous.

A gift to a higher being must look attractive, so each offering is a work of art. The most common offering is a palm-leaf tray little bigger than a saucer, topped with flowers, food (especially rice, and modern touches such as Ritz crackers or individually-wrapped lollies) and small change, crowned with a saiban (temple/shrine offering). More important shrines and occasions call for more elaborate offerings, which can include colourful towers of fruits and cakes, and even entire animals cooked and ready to eat, as in Bali’s famous babi guling (suckling pig; Click here).

Once presented to the gods an offering cannot be used again, so new ones are made again and again, each day, usually by women. You’ll see easy-to-assemble offerings for sale in markets, much as you’d find quick dinner items in Western supermarkets.

Offerings to the gods are placed on high levels and to the demons on the ground. Don’t worry about stepping on these; given their ubiquity, it’s almost impossible not to (just don’t try to). In fact, at Bemo Corner in Kuta, offerings are left at the shrine in the middle of the road and are quickly flattened by cars. Across the island, dogs with a taste for crackers hover around fresh offerings. Given the belief that gods or demons instantly derive the essence of an offering, the critters are really just getting leftovers.

Name is the first indicator of where a Balinese person belongs in their family and society, revealing birth order and caste (see the boxed text,). Although the Balinese are easygoing and generally egalitarian, they still observe some rules of engagement defined by the ancient caste system. Those from the Sudra caste, which comprises over 90% of Balinese, use the highest form of the Balinese language when speaking to anyone from the three highest castes composed of royalty, generals and priests. Lombok’s Sasaks also observe a caste system, in contrast to Muslims elsewhere. In both Bali and Lombok, women are not allowed to marry a man from a lower caste; those that defy this usually elope. To maintain caste status, marriage between cousins is quite common, especially in rural areas and among the nobility.

A great resource on Balinese culture and life is www.murnis.com. Click through to Culture to find explanations on everything from kids’ names to what one wears to a ceremony and the weaving of the garments.

Lombok

On Lombok, adat (tradition, customs and manners) underpins all aspects of daily life, especially regarding courtship, marriage and circumcision. Friday afternoon is the official time for worship, and government offices and many businesses close. Many, but not all, women wear headscarfs, very few wear the veil, and large numbers work in tourism. Middle-class Muslim girls are often able to choose their own partners. Circumcision of Sasak boys normally occurs between the ages of six and 11 and calls for much celebration following a parade through their village.

The significant Balinese population on Lombok means you can often glimpse a Hindu ceremony while there; the minority Wektu Telu, Chinese and Buginese communities add to the diversity.

Ceremonies & Rituals

Between the family temple, village temple and district temple, a Balinese person takes part in dozens of ceremonies every year, on top of their daily rituals. Most employers in large towns are ultra-flexible in allowing staff to return to their villages for these obligations, which consume a vast chunk of income and time. For tourists, this means there are ample opportunities to witness ceremonial traditions.

Each ceremony is carried out on an auspicious date determined by a priest and often involves banquets, dance, drama and musical performances to entice the gods to continue their protection against evil forces. The most important ceremonies are Nyepi (see the boxed text,), which includes a rare day of complete rest, and Galungan, a 10-day reunion with ancestral spirits to celebrate the victory of good over evil.

Under their karmic beliefs, the Balinese hold themselves responsible for any misfortune, which is attributed to an overload of adharma. This calls for a ngulapin ritual to seek forgiveness and recover spiritual protection. A ngulapin requires an animal sacrifice and often involves a cockfight, satisfying the demons’ thirst for blood.

The biggest ngulapin was a dramatic island-wide event following the 2002 terrorist attack, but other smaller purifications are performed every day. You may notice a priest performing one on site after a traffic accident, or a mother rubbing her hair against her child’s sore spot or injury after a fall.

Ceremonies are also held to overcome black magic and to cleanse a sebel (ritually unclean) spirit after childbirth, bereavement, during menstruation or illness.

On top of all of these ceremonies, there are 13 major rites of passage throughout every person’s life. The most extravagant and expensive is the last – cremation.

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Far from being straightforward, Balinese names are as fluid as the tides. Everyone has a traditional name, but their other names often reflect events in a person’s life. They also help distinguish between people of the same name, which is perhaps nowhere more necessary than in Bali.

Under traditional naming customs, Wayan is commonly given to a first-born child, followed by Made for second-born, Nyoman for third-born and Ketut for fourth-born. Subsequent children re-use the same set, but as many families now settle for just two children, you’ll meet many Wayans and Mades. For those from the Sudra caste, these names are preceded by the title ‘I’ for a boy and ‘Ni’ for a girl. Upper-caste titles are Ida Bagus for a male and Ida Ayu for a female, followed by Cokorda, Anak Agung, Dewa or Gusti.

Traditional names are followed by another given name. This is where parents can get creative. Some names reflect hopes for their child, as in I Nyoman Darma Putra, who’s supposed to be ‘dutiful’ or ‘good’ (dharma). Others reflect modern influences, such as I Wayan Radio who was born in the 1970s, and Ni Made Atom who said her parents just liked the sound of this scientific term that also had a bomb named after it. Tourists have inspired names like Eddie and David, and celebrity tags such as Jagger (after the rocker who married in Bali).

Some monikers honour the child’s birth. I Wayan Kamar (room) was born at home, but his brother I Made Meja (table) isn’t sure how he got his name. Ni Kadek Novi was named after her birth month November.

There is little attachment to these names and many Balinese adopt others as they go through life. Some herald their own deeds, such as Wayan Subamia who’s better known as Wayan Kecak for his dancing prowess. Some allude to parents’ misdeeds, as in I Wayan Parwa Darmaja, who’s known as Wayan Sangkur, after a rooster with no tail, to reflect his father’s pastime of gambling on cockfighting. Apparently fortunes had changed by the time Wayan’s brother arrived: I Made Godeg was named after a rooster with a long tail.

Many are tagged for their appearance and luckily don’t take offence. Nyoman Darma is often called Nyoman Kopi (coffee) for the darkness of his skin compared to his siblings. I Wayan Rama, named after the Ramayana epic, is called Wayan Gemuk (fat) to differentiate his physique from his slighter friend Wayan Kecil (small).

Then there are monikers that come from abbreviating formal names. Wayan Kecil’s son Putu Gede is called Tude, after the second half of each name. And because parents assume their first child’s name, Wayan Kecil also goes by Pak Tude (literally, Father of Tude).

The Dutch colonialists were so confused by the constant name-changing that they insisted that each person stick to just one. The Balinese obliged, officially, but their naming customs remain an expression of their cultural identity. Today, most Balinese use formal names at school, work and when meeting strangers, and nicknames around their house and village.

Note: All names mentioned here are real!

BIRTH & CHILDHOOD

The Balinese believe babies are the reincarnation of ancestors, and honour them as such. Offerings are made during pregnancy to ensure the mini-deity’s wellbeing, and after birth, the placenta, umbilical cord, blood and afterbirth water – representing the child’s four ‘spirit’ guardian brothers – are buried in the family compound.

Balinese men traditionally do not cut their hair during their wives’ pregnancies. This supposedly gives the baby good hair, while making the husband less comfortable and handsome in empathy with his wife’s discomfort.

Newborns are literally carried everywhere for the first three months, as they’re not allowed to touch the ‘impure’ ground until after a purification ceremony. At 210 days (the first Balinese year), the baby is blessed in the ancestral temple and there is a huge feast. Later in life, birthdays lose their significance and many Balinese couldn’t tell you their age. Today, many parents also hold much smaller, simpler celebrations to mark their child’s birthday according to the Gregorian calendar.

A rite of passage to adulthood – and a pre-requisite to marriage – is the tooth-filing ceremony at around 16- to 18-years-old, when a priest files a small part of the upper canines and upper incisors to flatten the teeth. Pointy fangs are, after all, distinguishing features of dogs and demons –just check out a Rangda mask! Balinese claim the procedure doesn’t hurt, likening the sensation to eating very cold ice: slightly uncomfortable, but not painful.

Another important occasion for girls is their first menstruation, which calls for a purification ceremony.

The Balinese tooth-filing ceremony closes with the recipient being given a delicious jamu (herbal tonic), made from freshly pressed turmeric, betel-leaf juice, lime juice and honey.

MARRIAGE

Marriage defines a person’s social status in Bali – for men, it makes them automatic members of the banjar – and Balinese believe it’s their duty when they come of age to marry and have children, including at least one son. Divorce is rare as a divorced woman is cut off from her children.

The respectable way to marry, known as mapadik, is when the man’s family visits the woman’s family and proposes. But the Balinese like their fun and some prefer marriage by ngrorod (elopement or ‘kidnapping’). After the couple returns to their village, the marriage is officially recognised and everybody has a grand celebration.

DEATH & CREMATION

The body is considered little more than a shell for the soul, and upon death it is cremated in an elaborate ceremony befitting the ancestral spirit. It usually involves the whole community and for important people such as royalty, can be a spectacular event involving thousands of people.

Because of the burdensome cost of even a modest cremation (estimated at around 5,000,000Rp), as well as the need to wait for an auspicious date, the deceased is often buried, sometimes for years, and disinterred for a mass cremation. Brahmanas (high priests), however, must be cremated immediately.

The body is carried in a tall, incredibly artistic, multi-tiered pyre made of bamboo, paper, tinsel, silk, cloth, mirrors, flowers and anything else colourful, on the shoulders of a group of men. The tower’s size depends on the deceased’s importance. A rajah or high priest’s funeral may require hundreds of men to tote the 11-tiered structure.

Along the way, the group sets out to confuse the corpse so it cannot find its way back home; the corpse is considered an unclean link to the material world, and the soul must be liberated for its evolution to a higher state. The men shake the tower, run it around in circles, simulate war battles, hurl water at it and generally rough-handle it, making the trip anything but a stately funeral crawl. Meanwhile, the priest halfway up the tower hangs on grimly, doing his best to soak bystanders with holy water. A gamelan sprints behind, providing an exciting musical accompaniment.

Balinese culture keeps intimacy behind doors. Holding hands is not customary for couples in Bali, and is generally reserved for small children; however, linking arms for adults is the norm, as is affection between heterosexual men.

At the cremation ground, the body is transferred to a funeral sarcophagus reflecting the deceased’s caste – a black bull for a Brahmana, white bull for priests, winged lion for a Ksatriyasa, and elephant-fish for a Sudra. Finally, it all goes up in flames and the ashes are scattered in the ocean. The soul is then free to ascend to heaven and wait for the next incarnation, usually in the form of a grandchild, while further ceremonies are performed to consecrate the soul and give it a place in the family temple.

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ECONOMY

Bali’s traditional agriculture-driven economy has been supplanted by the cold hard cash of tourism. Economists estimate that agriculture now contributes only around 20% of local GDP and a small share of the exports through coffee, copra, seaweed and cattle. Tourism-related revenue and investment is the real economic pillar of the region, contributing 50 to 80% of GDP. This gap is widening further as foreign demand drives land prices as high as 500,000,000Rp per are (100 sq metres) in prime locations, prompting many farmers to sell or lease rice fields for villa developments.

Although exact numbers are hard to come by, it’s generally agreed that Bali has Indonesia’s highest literacy rate.

Economists now fear Bali has become too dependent on tourism. The imbalance was starkly evident after the 2002 and 2005 bombings that prompted mass cancellations by travellers. Thousands of Balinese went out of business or lost their jobs, poverty levels rose sharply and GDP growth slowed to around 3% from 8% previously. Other crises from Avian bird flu to SARS have also hit Bali hard in recent years.

Luckily, visitor numbers have since recovered to record highs. In 2008, foreign tourist numbers were forecast to top 2.1 million compared with almost 1.7 million in 2007, led by Japanese and Australians and emerging markets like Russia and China.

The money these visitors spend at hotels, restaurants, shops and service providers, on top of revenue from investments and exports (dominated by handicrafts), means that Bali is relatively well-off compared with other provinces in Indonesia. Per-capita income is among the top 10 in Indonesia and life expectancy and literacy levels are high. So too is immigration, as Indonesians from poorer islands come seeking work, creating a large informal workforce.

Foreign tourists spend an average of US$100 per day in Bali. In comparison, locals in Denpasar spend less than US$2 per day.

However, the spoils are not evenly distributed. Some 95% of tourism revenue is divided between just three southern districts: Denpasar, Badung (including Kuta, Seminyak and Nusa Dua) and Gianyar (including Ubud). And the tourist and expat markets have created something of a dual economy: you can eat for less than US$1 at a warung (food stall), or you can indulge in champagne, caviar and imported delicacies at fine-dining restaurants for well over US$100 per person, while annual school fees range from 3,000,000Rp at local high schools, to up to US$10,000 at international schools.

Lombok’s tourism industry, though much smaller, has suffered several lean years since rioting provoked by religious and cultural tensions affected Senggigi in 2000. It’s also suffered as a by-product of the Bali bombings. While visitor numbers remain depressed in many areas, the Gili Islands, particularly Trawangan, have made a strong comeback. In addition, promises of a long-awaited international airport have attracted investment in tourism developments.

In both Bali and Lombok, the basic cost of living has skyrocketed. The national government continues to cut fuel subsidies and the petrol price alone rose by one-third in 2008, while the price of other basics such as rice and cooking oil have also risen, with no corresponding increase in the minimum wage. The average Balinese earns around US$100 a month and the disposable income of a family of four is about 40,000Rp a day. Many impoverished parents – from Bali, Lombok and other islands such as Sumba – send their children to orphanages in Bali to guarantee them an education. Food for thought when considering whether or not to leave a tip.

STOPPING CHILD-SEX TOURISM IN BALI

Unfortunately, Indonesia has become a destination for foreigners seeking to sexually exploit local children. A range of socioeconomic factors renders many children and young people vulnerable to such abuse and some individuals prey upon this vulnerability. The sexual abuse and exploitation of children has serious, life-long and even life-threatening consequences for the victims. Strong laws exist in Indonesia to prosecute offenders and many countries also have extraterritorial legislation which allows nationals to be prosecuted in their own country for these intolerable crimes.

For more information, contact the following organisations:

• Child Wise (0361-226783 ext 127; www.childwise.net) This is the Australian member of ECPAT.
• ECPAT (End Child Prostitution & Trafficking; www.ecpat.org) A global network working on these issues, with over 70 affiliate organisations around the world.
• PKPA (Center for Study & Child Protection; 061-663 7821 in Medan, Sumatra) An organisation committed to the protection of Indonesia’s children and the prevention of child-sex tourism.

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POPULATION & MULTICULTURALISM

The Balinese are predominantly descendents of the Malays, who travelled southeast from China around 3000 BC. Before that, ethnic strands have been traced to the Australian Aborigine, India, Polynesia and Melanesia, and a diverse range of physical features from these groups can be seen in Bali’s people.

The magazine/comic Bog Bog, by a Balinese cartoonist, is a satirical and humorous insight into the contrast between modern and traditional worlds in Bali. It’s available in bookshops and supermarkets and is highly recommended.

Bali is densely populated. Although tourism work has attracted many young people to urban centres in the south, most people still live in rural villages and many commute long distances to work in Denpasar. Tourism opportunities have also attracted immigrants: Indonesians from Java, Sumatra and Nusa Tenggara; Chinese, Indian and Arab merchants; and thousands of Western expats. Ethnic minorities also include the Bali Aga of the central highlands, whose Hindu traditions predate the arrival of the Majapahit court in the 15th century.

Like anywhere with high immigration, social problems such as theft, prostitution and begging are often blamed on immigrants, in this case the Javanese. However, Bali is a model of tolerance and the many different cultures and religions all coexist remarkably harmoniously. There are Chinese temples, a Buddhist monastery, Indian Ashram, Christian villages and churches, and substantial Muslim communities around Denpasar and the ports of Gilimanuk, Singaraja, Benoa and Padangbai.

On Lombok, the majority of people live in and around the principal centres of Mataram, Praya and Selong. Almost 90% are Sasak Muslims, 10% Balinese, and a small number are Chinese, Buginese, Javanese and Arab. The Sasaks are assumed to have come from northwestern India or Myanmar (Burma), and the clothing the women wear today – long black sarongs called lambung held by long scarves trimmed with brightly coloured stripes, and short-sleeved blouses with V-necks – is very similar to attire from those areas.

The Balinese of Lombok are a legacy of the era when Bali controlled its neighbouring island in the 1700s, and they have retained many of their traditions and customs. They contributed to the emergence of the Wektu Telu religion, and Balinese temples, ceremonies and processions remain a colourful part of western Lombok’s cultural life. Among the other minority groups, the Buginese were mostly fishing families who came from south Sulawesi in the late 19th century to settle in coastal areas. The Chinese were brought over to serve as coolies in the rice paddies in the 18th century; many went on to set up their own businesses, which were singled out in the riots of 2000.

Long before the gorilla appears (!), you know Road to Bali is one of the lesser ‘road’ movies of Bob Hope and Bing Crosby. Few last long enough to see the pair vie for the affections of ‘Balinese princess’ Dorothy Lamour.

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MEDIA

Following the end of Soeharto’s authoritarian rule in 1998, the press enjoyed an unprecedented freedom that gave rise to many new publications and broadcasters. Although self-censorship has been a concern in light of defamation suits against editors and reporters that were based on the Criminal Code instead of the Press Law, corruption cases and human rights abuses by high-profile politicians and businessmen regularly feature in news reports. Scandalous reports based on unnamed sources are also regular features of national newspapers, along with gruesome photos and footage from disasters and crime scenes.

The tourist and expat markets in Bali and Lombok have given rise to many tourist magazines in various languages: English, Japanese, Italian, French and more. Some are very high quality and distributed internationally. Click here and Click here for details and availability of publications and broadcast media.

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ARTS

Bali’s vibrant arts scene makes the island so much more than just a tropical destination. In the paintings, sculpture, dance and music, you will see the natural artistic talent inherent in every Balinese, a legacy of their Majapahit heritage. The artistry displayed here will stay with you long after you’ve moved on from the island.

The Sweat of Pearls: Short Stories About Women of Bali, by Putu Oka Sukanta, is a small collection of engaging stories about village life. Try to find a copy in one of the many used-book stalls you’ll find across Bali.

But it is telling that there is no Balinese equivalent for the words ‘art’ or ‘artist’. Until the tourist invasion, artistic expression was exclusively for religious and ritual purposes, and almost exclusively done by men. Paintings and carvings were purely to decorate temples and shrines, while music, dance and theatrical performances were put on to entertain the gods who returned to Bali for important ceremonies. Artists did not strive to be different or individual as many in the West; their work reflected a traditional style or a new idea, but not their own personality.

That changed in the late 1920s when foreign artists began to settle in Ubud; they went to learn from the Balinese and to share their knowledge, and helped to establish art as a commercial enterprise. Today, it’s big business. Women are getting in on the act and there’s more individual expression, although the term copyright has little meaning here and you will find new ideas quickly replicated. Ubud remains the undisputed artistic centre of the island and artists still come from near and far to draw on its inspiration, from Japanese glass-blowers to European photographers and Javanese painters.

Galleries and craft shops are all over the island; the paintings, stone- and woodcarvings are stacked up on floors and will trip you up if you’re not careful. Much of it is churned out quickly, and some images are just plain vulgar – corkscrews in the form of life-sized male appendages, for instance – but you will still find a great deal of beautiful work. And even if it looks ordinary among its clones in Bali, it adds an exotic touch to your wall or shelf back home.

There are excellent crafts available on Lombok as well, including pottery in villages such as Banyumulek. There are also many good shops and galleries in Mataram and Senggigi.

Richly illustrated, The Art & Culture of Bali, by Urs Ramseyer, is a comprehensive work on the foundations of Bali’s complex and colourful artistic and cultural heritage.

Dance

BALI

There are more than a dozen different dances in Bali, each with rigid choreography, requiring high levels of discipline. Most performers are not professionals, but have learned through painstaking practice with an expert. No visit is complete without enjoying this purely Balinese art form.

You can catch a quality dance performance anywhere there’s a festival or celebration, and you’ll find exceptional performances in and around Ubud (Click here). Performances are typically at night and can last several hours. Absorb the hypnotic music and the alluring moves of the performers and the time will, er, dance past. Admission is generally around 50,000Rp. Music, theatre and dance courses are also available in Ubud (Click here).

With the short attention spans of tourists in mind, many hotels offer a smorgasbord of dances – a little Kecak, a taste of Barong and some Legong to round it off. These can be pretty abbreviated, with just a few musicians and a couple of dancers.

On your travels, you may also notice women bringing offerings to a temple while dancing the Pendet, their eyes, heads and hands moving in spectacularly controlled and coordinated movements. This is a typical trait of Balinese dance; every flick of the wrist, hand and fingers is charged with meaning, and facial expressions are carefully choreographed to convey the character’s mood. It also tends to be precise, jerky, shifting and jumpy, much like Balinese music, with its abrupt changes of tempo and dramatic contrasts between silence and crashing noise. This comic blend of seriousness and slapstick is also on show.

Dancing Out of Bali, by John Coast, tells of a ground-breaking international tour by a Balinese dance troupe in the 1950s.

Kecak

Probably the best-known dance for its spell-binding, hair-raising atmosphere, the Kecak features a ‘choir’ of men and boys who sit in concentric circles and slip into a trance as they chant and sing the ‘chak-a-chak-a-chak’, imitating a troupe of monkeys. Sometimes called the ‘vocal gamelan’, this is the only music to accompany the dance re-enactment from the Hindu epic Ramayana, the familiar love story about Prince Rama and his Princess Sita.

The tourist version of Kecak was developed in the 1960s. This spectacular performance is easily found in Ubud and also at the Pura Luhur Ulu Watu.

Barong & Rangda

This rivals the Kecak as Bali’s most popular dance for tourists. Again, it’s a battle between good (the Barong) and bad (the Rangda). The Barong is a good but mischievous and fun-loving shaggy dog-lion, while the widow-witch Rangda is bad through and through.

The story features a duel between Rangda and Barong, whose supporters draw their kris (traditional dagger) and rush in to help. The long-tongued, sharp-fanged Rangda throws them into a trance though, making them stab themselves. It’s quite a spectacle. Thankfully, the Barong casts a spell that neutralises the kris power so it cannot harm them.

Playing around with all that powerful magic, good and bad, requires the presence of a pemangku (priest for temple rituals), who must end the dancers’ trance and make a blood sacrifice using a chicken to propitiate the evil spirits.

Legong

Characterised by flashing eyes and quivering hands, this most graceful of Balinese dances is performed by young girls. Their talent is so revered that in old age, a classic dancer will be remembered as a ‘great Legong’.

Kuta And Kuta, Sanur: The Birthplace of Bali Style and Ubud is a Mood comprise a trilogy published by Yayasan Bali Purnati that provides a fascinating insight into Bali’s vibrant culture and tourism development, with essays and photographs by local and expat contributors.

Peliatan’s famous dance troupe, often seen in Ubud, is particularly noted for its Legong Keraton (Legong of the Palace). The very stylised and symbolic story involves two Legong dancing in mirror image. They are elaborately made up and dressed in gold brocade, relating a story about a king who takes a maiden captive and consequently starts a war, in which he dies. There’s a message in that somewhere.

Sanghyang

These dances were developed to drive out evil spirits from a village – Sanghyang is a divine spirit who temporarily inhabits an entranced dancer. The Sanghyang Dedari is performed by two young girls who dance a dream-like version of the Legong in perfect symmetry while their eyes are firmly shut. Male and female choirs provide a background chant until the dancers slump to the ground. A pemangku blesses them with holy water and brings them out of the trance. The modern Kecak dance developed from the Sanghyang.

In the Sanghyang Jaran, a boy in a trance dances around and through a fire of coconut husks, riding a coconut palm ‘hobby horse’. Variations of this are called the Kecak Fire Dance (or Fire and Trance Dance for tourists) and are performed in Ubud almost daily.

Other Dances

The warrior dance, the Baris, is a male equivalent of the Legong – grace and femininity give way to an energetic and warlike spirit. The highly-skilled Baris dancer must convey the thoughts and emotions of a warrior first preparing for action, and then meeting the enemy: chivalry, pride, anger, prowess and, finally, regret are illustrated.

In the Topeng, which means ‘pressed against the face’, as with a mask, the dancers imitate the character represented by the mask. This requires great expertise because the dancer cannot convey thoughts and meanings through facial expressions – the dance must tell all. The Topeng Tua is a classic solo dance using the mask of an old man. A full collection of Topeng masks numbers up to 40.

One of the most popular comic dances is the Cupak, which tells of a greedy coward (Cupak) and his brave but hard-done-by younger brother, and their adventures while rescuing a beautiful princess.

Dance in Bali is not a static art form. The Oleg Tambulilingan for example, developed in the 1950s, was originally a solo female dance. Later, a male part was added and the dance now mimics the flirtations of two tambulilingan (bumblebees).

LOMBOK

Lombok also has its own unique dances, but they are not widely marketed. Performances are staged in some luxury hotels and in Lenek village, known for its dance traditions. If you’re in Senggigi in July, there are also dance and gendang beleq (big drum) performances Click here. The gendang beleq, a dramatic war dance also called the Oncer, is performed by men and boys who play a variety of unusual musical instruments for adat festivals in central and eastern Lombok.

Canadian musician Colin McPhee played a key role in introducing Balinese music to the West and supporting gamelan tours overseas. McPhee’s A House in Bali is one of the best written accounts of the island, packed with humorous anecdotes of music and building.

The music, lyrics and costumes of Rudat performances reveal a mixture of both Muslim and Sasak cultures. The Rudat is danced by pairs of men in black caps and jackets and black-and-white chequered sarongs, backed by singers, tambourines and jidur (large cylindrical drums).

The Cupak Gerantang is based on one of the Panji stories, an extensive cycle of written and oral stories originating on Java in the 15th century. It’s often performed at traditional celebrations. Another version of a Panji story is the Kayak Sando in central and eastern Lombok, but here the dancers wear masks.

The Tandak Gerok combines dance with music played on bamboo flutes and the rebab (bowed lute), as well as singers imitating the sound of gamelan instruments. It is usually performed after harvesting or other hard labour.

Music

BALI

Balinese music is based around an ensemble known as a gamelan, also called a gong. A gong gede (large orchestra) is the traditional form, with 35 to 40 musicians. The more ancient gamelan selunding is still occasionally played in Bali Aga villages like Tenganan.

The modern, popular form of a gong gede is gong kebyar, with up to 25 instruments. This melodic, sometimes upbeat and sometimes haunting percussion that often accompanies traditional dance is one of the most lasting impressions for tourists to Bali.

The prevalent voice in Balinese music is from the xylophone-like gangsa, which the player hits with a hammer, dampening the sound just after it’s struck. The tempo and nature of the music is controlled by two kendang drums – one male and one female. Other instruments are the deep trompong drums, small kempli gong and cengceng cymbals used in faster pieces. Not all instruments require great skill, making music a common village activity.

The pieces are learned by heart and passed down from father to son. (Music was traditionally a male occupation, although nowadays there’s an all-women gong kebyar.) There’s little musical notation, although CDs are widely available in music shops and department stores. Walter Spies, as good a musician as he was painter, was the first to record Balinese music.

Many shops in South Bali and Ubud sell the distinctive gongs, flutes, bamboo xylophones and bamboo chimes.

Balinese Music, by Michael Tenzer, features photographs, a sono-graphy and a guide to all types of gamelan, each with its own tradition, repertoire and social or religious context.

LOMBOK

The genggong, a performance seen on Lombok, uses a simple set of instruments, including a bamboo flute, a rebab and knockers. Seven musicians accompany their music with dance movements and stylised hand gestures.

Theatre

Drama is closely related to music and dance in Bali, with the sound effects and puppets’ movements an important part of wayang kulit (leather shadow puppet) performances. The arja, a dance-drama, is comparable to Western opera.

WAYANG KULIT

Much more than sheer entertainment, wayang kulit has been Bali’s candle-lit cinema for centuries, embodying the sacred seriousness of classical Greek drama. (The word drama comes from the Greek dromenon, a religious ritual.) The performances are long and intense – lasting six hours or more and often not finishing before sun-up – and while many tourists become bored after a short time, every movement has symbolic meaning for the Balinese.

Balinese Dance, Drama And Music, A Guide to the Performing Arts of Bali, by I Wayan Dibia and Rucina Ballinger, is a lavishly illustrated in-depth guide to Bali’s cultural performances.

Originally used to bring ancestors back to this world, the show features painted buffalo-hide puppets believed to have great spiritual power, and the dalang (puppet master and storyteller) is an almost mystical figure. A person of considerable skill and even greater endurance, he sits behind a screen and manipulates the puppets while telling the story, conducting the gender wayang (small gamelan orchestra) and beating time with his chanting. Having run out of hands, he does this with a horn held by his toes!

The dalang is also a linguist; the standard set of traditional characters includes nobles who speak the high Javanese language Kawi, and common clowns who use everyday Balinese, as well as the national language, Bahasa Indonesia.

Stories are chiefly derived from the great Hindu epics, the Ramayana and, to a lesser extent, the Mahabharata.

For performances in Ubud, Click here.

ARJA

An arja drama is not unlike wayang kulit in its melodramatic plots, its offstage sound effects and its cast of easily identifiable goodies (the refined alus) and baddies (the unrefined kras). It’s performed outside, often with a curtain as a backdrop. A small house is sometimes built on stage and set on fire at the climax of the story!

BALI CALLS ON THE WORLD TO ‘PLAY DEAD’

If you’re ever in Bali for the Hindu New Year, you will be asked to play dead. Nyepi, which falls around March or April according to the Çaka calendar, is Bali’s biggest purification festival designed to clean out all the bad spirits and begin the year anew. Starting at sunrise, the whole island literally shuts down for 24 hours. No planes may land or take off, no vehicles of any description may be operated, and no power sources may be used. That means no fire, lights, TV or iPods. All businesses must shut, except for hotels and hospitals. Everyone, including tourists, must stay off the streets.

For the Balinese, it’s a day for meditation and introspection. For foreigners, the rules are more relaxed, so long as you respect the ‘Day of Silence’ by not leaving your residence or hotel and keeping noise to a minimum. If you do sneak out, you will quickly be escorted back to your hotel by a stern village police officer (pecalang).

The cultural reasoning behind Nyepi is to fool evil spirits into thinking Bali has been abandoned so they will go elsewhere. The Balinese government is also promoting Nyepi as an innovative model of tackling climate change, and has called on the world to embrace a Global Day of Silence. This may seem far-fetched and impractical, but the government believes that forbidding all energy consumption for just one day would reduce pollution and encourage behavioural change. Is it likely to happen? No. But surely it’s worth a try!

As daunting as it sounds, Nyepi is actually a fantastic time to be in Bali. Firstly, there’s the inspired concept of being forced to do nothing, which even for resort-goers can be a complete change of scene. Catch up on some sleep, or if you must, read, sunbathe, write postcards, play board games…just don’t do anything to tempt the demons! Secondly, there are the colourful festivals either side of Nyepi, which are a sight to behold.

On Nyepi Eve, you will see large ceremonies across the island with the most beautiful offerings to lure out the demons. Their rendezvous point is believed to be the main crossroads of each village, and this is where the priests perform exorcisms. Then the whole island erupts in mock ‘anarchy’, with people banging on kulkuls, drums and tins, letting off firecrackers and yelling ‘megedi megedi!’ (get out!) to expel the demons. This accompanies a lively street parade of ogoh-ogoh (huge papier-mâché monster dolls with menacing fingers and frightening faces), whose artistic creation involves many weeks and many hands. They all go up in flames in a spectacular finale. Any demons that survive this wild partying are believed to evacuate when confronted with the boring silence on the morrow.

The day after Nyepi is known as Ngembak Geni (relighting the fires) and is marked by a public kissing ‘war’ on Jl Raya Sesetan in Banjar Kaja, Denpasar. This is the only community that still practises this unique med-medan (tug-of-war without rope) tradition. A referee officiates as young boys and girls pull each other to kiss on the cheek while spectators throw water all over them, apparently to deter them! Great spectator sport.

For much more on the Balinese calendar, Click here.

As the story is told by clown characters who describe and explain the actions of the nobles, the dialogue uses both high and low Balinese. The plot is often just a small part of a longer story well known to the Balinese audience but very difficult for a foreigner to understand or appreciate.

Painting

Balinese painting is probably the art form most influenced by Western ideas and demand. There is a relatively small number of creative original painters in Bali, and an enormous number of imitators. Shops are packed full of paintings in whatever style is popular at the time – some are quite good and a few are really excellent. It’s rare to see anything totally unique though.

Museums in Ubud such as the Neka Art Museum, Agung Rai Museum of Art and Museum Puri Lukisan showcase the best of Balinese art and some of the European influences that have shaped it. Commercial galleries like Neka Gallery and Agung Rai Gallery offer high-quality work for sale. If you buy a painting, consider buying a frame as well. These are often elaborately carved works of art in themselves.

Perceptions of Paradise: Images of Bali in the Arts, by Garret Kam, is not only a detailed guide to Ubud’s Neka Art Museum but also a beautiful primer on Balinese art in general.

Traditional paintings, faithfully depicting religious and mythological subjects, were for temple and palace decoration, and the set colours were made from soot, clay and pigs’ bones. In the 1930s, Western artists introduced the concept of paintings as artistic creations that could also be sold for money. To target the tourist market, they encouraged deviance to scenes from everyday life. They introduced acrylics and oils and a wider range of colours, ready-made paintbrushes and fine-woven canvas, as well as the use of perspective. The range of themes, techniques, styles and materials expanded enormously, and women painters emerged for the first time. Their work is now on show at Ubud’s Seniwati Gallery.

A loose classification of styles is: classical, or Kamasan, named for the village of Kamasan near Semarapura; Ubud style, developed in the 1930s under the influence of the Pita Maha; Batuan, which started at the same time in a nearby village; Young Artists, begun post-war in the 1960s, and influenced by Dutch artist Arie Smit; and finally, modern or academic, free in its creative topics, yet strongly and distinctively Balinese.

CLASSICAL PAINTING

There are three basic types of classical painting – langse, iders-iders and calendars. Langse are large decorative hangings for palaces or temples which display wayang figures, rich floral designs and flame-and-mountain motifs. Iders-iders are scroll paintings hung along temple eaves. Calendars are, much as they were before, used to set dates for rituals and predict the future.

Artists on Bali, by Ruud Spruit, is a well-illustrated description of the work of Nieuwenkamp, Bonnet, Spies, Hofker, Le Mayeur and Smit, who studied and documented the culture and natural beauty of the island.

Langse paintings helped impart adat to the ordinary people in the same way that traditional dance and wayang kulit puppetry do. The stylised human figures depicted good and evil, with romantic heroes like Ramayana and Arjuna always painted with small, narrow eyes and fine features, while devils and warriors were prescribed round eyes, coarse features and facial hair. The paintings tell a story in a series of panels, rather like a comic strip, and often depict scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Other themes are the Kakawins poems, and demonic spirits from indigenous Balinese folklore – see the ceilings of the Kertha Gosa (Hall of Justice; ) in Semarapura for an example.

A good place to see classical painting in a modern context is at the Nyoman Gunarsa Museum near Semarapura, which was established to preserve and promote classical techniques.

THE PITA MAHA

In the 1930s, with few commissions from temples, painting was virtually dying out. European artists Rudolf Bonnet and Walter Spies, with their patron Cokorda Gede Agung Surapati, formed the Pita Maha (literally, Great Vitality) to take painting from a ritual-based activity to a commercial one. The cooperative had more than 100 members at its peak in the 1930s and led to the establishment of Museum Puri Lukisan in Ubud, the first museum dedicated to Balinese art. Although Pita Maha has dissolved, its legacy is the never-ending trail of handicraft and souvenir shops around South Bali.

The changes Bonnet and Spies inspired were revolutionary. Balinese artists such as the late I Gusti Nyoman Lempad started exploring their own styles. Narrative tales were replaced by single scenes, and romantic legends by daily life: the harvest, markets, cockfights, offerings at a temple or a cremation. These paintings were known as Ubud style.

Meanwhile, painters from Batuan retained many features of classical painting. They depicted daily life, but across many scenes – a market, dance and rice harvest would all appear in a single work. This Batuan style is also noted for its inclusion of some very modern elements, such as sea scenes with the odd windsurfer.

Treasures of Bali, by Richard Mann, is a beautifully illustrated guide to Bali’s museums, big and small.

The painting techniques also changed. Modern paint and materials were used and stiff formal poses gave way to realistic 3-D representations. More importantly, pictures were not just painted to fit a space in a palace or a temple.

In one way, however, the style remained unchanged – Balinese paintings are packed with detail. A painted Balinese forest, for example, has branches, leaves and a whole zoo of creatures reaching out to fill every tiny space.

This new artistic enthusiasm was interrupted by WWII and Indonesia’s independence struggle, and stayed that way until the development of the Young Artists’ style.

THE YOUNG ARTISTS

Dutch painter Arie Smit was in Penestanan, just outside Ubud, in 1956, when he noticed an 11-year-old boy drawing in the dirt and wondered what he could produce if he had the proper equipment. As the legend goes, the boy’s father would not allow him to take up painting until Smit offered to pay somebody else to watch the family’s ducks.

Other ‘young artists’ soon joined that first pupil, I Nyoman Cakra, but Smit did not actively teach them. He simply provided the equipment and encouragement, and unleashed what was clearly a strong natural talent. Today, this style of rural scenes painted in brilliant technicolour is a staple of Balinese tourist art.

I Nyoman Cakra still lives in Penestanan, still paints, and cheerfully admits that he owes it all to Smit. Other ‘young artists’ include I Ketut Tagen, I Nyoman Tjarka and I Nyoman Mujung.

OTHER STYLES

There are some other variants to the main Ubud and Young Artists’ painting styles. The depiction of forests, flowers, butterflies, birds and other naturalistic themes, for example, sometimes called Pengosekan style, became popular in the 1960s. It can probably be traced back to Henri Rousseau, who was a significant influence on Walter Spies. An interesting development in this particular style is the depiction of underwater scenes, with colourful fish, coral gardens and sea creatures. Somewhere between the Pengosekan and Ubud styles sit the miniature landscape paintings that are popular commercially.

The non-profit Lontar Foundation (www.lontar.org) works to get Indonesian books translated into English so that universities around the world can offer courses in Indonesian literature.

The new techniques also resulted in radically new versions of Rangda, Barong, Hanuman and other figures from Balinese and Hindu mythology. Scenes from folk tales and stories appeared, featuring dancers, nymphs and love stories, with an understated erotic appeal.

Literature

The Balinese language has several forms, but the only written kind is ‘high Balinese’, a form of Sanskrit used for religious purposes and to recount epics such as the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Illustrated versions of these epics, inscribed on lontar (specially prepared palm leaves), are Bali’s earliest books. The poems and stories of the early Balinese courts, from the 11th to the 19th centuries, were written in Old Javanese or Middle Javanese, and were meant to be sung or recited rather than read. Even the most elaborate drama and dance performances had no real written scripts or choreography, at least not until Westerners like Colin McPhee started to produce them in the 1930s.

In the colonial period, some Indonesians began writing in Dutch, while Dutch scholars began documenting Balinese language and literature. Later, the use of Indo-Malay (called Bahasa Indonesia) became more widespread. One of the first Balinese writers to be published in that language was Anak Agung Pandji Tisna, from Singaraja. His second novel, The Rape of Sukreni (1936), adapted all of the features of traditional Balinese drama: the conflict between good and evil, and the inevitability of karma. It was a popular and critical success; an English translation is available in bookshops in Bali.

Menagerie 4, edited by John McGlynn and I Nyoman Darma Putra, features short stories, essays and poems by Balinese and other Indonesian writers, exploring modern issues surrounding this mystical island’s age-old beliefs and traditions.

Most modern Balinese literature has been written in Bahasa Indonesia, although the annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival aims to market Balinese and other Indonesian authors internationally to help them get their work translated into English. Short stories and poems are frequently published in anthologies, newspapers and magazines. An important theme is tradition versus change and modernisation, often depicted as a tragic love story involving couples of different castes. Politics, money, tourism and relations with foreigners are also explored. There are several anthologies translated into English, some by renowned author Putu Oka Sukanta. Other writers of note include Oka Rusmini, whose book Tarian Bumi follows the lives of generations of Balinese women; poet and novelist Pranita Dewi; and author Gusti Putu Bawa Samar Gantang.

It’s striking how much has been published about Bali internationally, and (until recently) how little of it has been penned by Balinese – it says much about the Western fascination with the island.

Crafts

Bali is a showroom for crafts from around Indonesia. A nicer tourist shop will sell puppets and batiks from Java, ikat garments from Sumba, Sumbawa and Flores, and textiles and woodcarvings from Bali, Lombok and Kalimantan. The kris, so important to a Balinese family, will often have been made in Java.

Bali Behind the Seen: Recent Fiction from Bali, translated by Vern Cork and written by Balinese authors, conveys much of the tension between deeply rooted traditions and the irresistible pressure of modernisation.

On Lombok, where there’s never been much money, traditional handicrafts are practical items, but are still skilfully made and beautifully finished. The finer examples of Lombok weaving, basketware and pottery are highly valued by collectors. Some traditional crafts have developed into small-scale industries and villages now specialise in them: textiles from Sukarara, batik paintings from Sade and Rembitan, and pottery from Penujak. Shops in Ampenan, Cakranegara and Senggigi have a good range of Lombok’s finest arts and crafts, as do local markets.

OFFERINGS & EPHEMERA

Traditionally, many of Bali’s most elaborate crafts have been ceremonial offerings not intended to last: baten tegeh (decorated pyramids of fruit, rice cakes and flowers); rice-flour cookies modelled into entire scenes with a deep symbolic significance and tiny sculptures; lamak (long, woven palm-leaf strips used as decorations in festivals and celebrations); stylised female figures known as cili, which are representations of Dewi Sri (the rice goddess); or intricately carved coconut-shell wall hangings. Marvel at the care and energy that goes into constructing huge funeral towers and exotic sarcophagi, all of which will go up in flames.

KEEPING TRACK OF TIME

Wondering what day of the week it is? You may have to consult a priest. The Balinese calendar is such a complex, intricate document that it only became publicly available some 60 years ago. Even today, most Balinese need a priest or adat leader to interpret it in order to determine the most auspicious day for any undertaking. ‘In Bali, the calendar is not just to be glanced at once a day, but a document of daunting sophistication requiring extensive study to understand,’ said I Nyoman Darma Putra, lecturer at Udayana University’s Faculty of Letters.

The calendar defines daily life. Whether it’s building a new house, planting rice, having your teeth filed, getting married or cremated, no event has any chance of success if it does not occur on the proper date. Legend has it that Bali’s most esteemed artist, I Gusti Nyoman Lempad, chose the most auspicious date for his departure from the world, aged at least 116, when he simply closed his eyes and never awoke.

The calendar incorporates three systems: the 365-day Gregorian calendar, the 210-day Pawukon calendar, and the 12-month Saka lunar calendar which begins with Nyepi every March or April. The Saka calendar began 78 years after the Gregorian, so this Saka year is 1931. ‘For any given date, there are several distinct names based on an interlocking cycle reflecting the 10 ‘weeks’ (wewaran) consisting of between one and 10 days each, the 30 ‘weeks’ (wuku) of the Pawukon calendar consisting of seven days each, and the 12 months of the Saka calendar,’ said Putra. ‘Auspicious days are assigned to specific combinations of these days.’

Confused yet? That’s not the half of it. Certain weeks are dedicated to humans, others to animals and bamboo, and the calendar also lists forbidden activities for each week, such as getting married, and cutting wood or bamboo.

Besides the date, each box on a calendar page contains the lunar month, the names of each of the 10 week ‘days’, attributes of a person born on that day according to Balinese astrology, and a symbol of either a full or new moon. Along the bottom of each month is a list of propitious days for specific activities, as well as the dates of odalan temple anniversaries – colourful festivals that visitors are welcome to attend.

In the old days, a priest consulted a tika – a piece of painted cloth or carved wood displaying the Pawukon cycle – with auspicious days represented by tiny geometric symbols. Today, many people have their own calendars, but it’s no wonder the priests are still in business! See the boxed text,, for more on the popular commercial version of the calendar.

For more on Balinese religious days and festivals, Click here.

TEXTILES & WEAVING

Bali

Textiles in Bali and Lombok are woven by women for daily wear and ceremonies, as well as for gifts. They are often part of marriage dowries and cremations, where they join the deceased’s soul as it passes to the afterlife.

The most common thread in Bali is the sarong, which can be used as an article of clothing, a sheet or a towel, among other things. The cheap cottons, either plain or printed, are for everyday use, and popular with tourists for beachwear.

The Bali Arts Festival showcases the work of thousands of Balinese each June and July in Denpasar. Click here for details.

For special occasions such as a temple ceremony, Balinese men and women use a kamben, a length of songket wrapped around the chest. The songket is silver- or gold-threaded cloth, hand woven using a floating weft technique, while another variety is the endek (like songket, but with pre-dyed weft threads).

The men pair the kamben with a shirt and the women pair it with a kebaya (long-sleeved lace blouse). A separate slim strip of cloth known as a kain (known as prada when decorated with a gold leaf pattern) is wound tightly around the hips and over the sarong like a belt to complete the outfit.

Traditional batik sarongs, which fall somewhere between a cotton sarong and kamben for formality, are handmade in central Java. The dyeing process has been adapted by the Balinese to produce brightly coloured and patterned fabrics. Watch out for ‘batik’ that’s been screenprinted. The colours will be washed out and the pattern is often only on one side (the dye in proper batik should colour both sides to reflect the belief that the body should feel what the eye sees).

Ikat involves dyeing either the warp threads (those stretched on the loom) or weft threads (those woven across the warp) before the material is woven. The resulting pattern is geometric and slightly wavy. The colouring typically follows a similar tone – blues and greens; reds and browns; or yellows, reds and oranges. Gianyar, in East Bali, has a few factories where you can watch ikat sarongs being woven on a hand-and-foot-powered loom. A complete sarong takes about six hours to make.

Balinese Textiles, by Hauser, Nabholz-Kartaschoff & Ramseyer, is a large and lavishly illustrated guide detailing weaving styles and their significance.

Unique to the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, in eastern Bali, gringsing is a complex and time-consuming double ikat process in which both warp and weft threads are pre-dyed. Typical colours are red, brown, yellow and deep purple made from natural dyes, some of which can take years to mix and age. The dyes also weaken the cotton fabric, so old examples of gringsing are extremely rare.

Any market, especially in Denpasar, will have a good range of textiles as does Jl Arjuna in Legian. Threads of Life in Ubud is a Fair Trade–certified textiles gallery that preserves traditional Balinese and Indonesian hand-weaving skills.

Lombok

Lombok is renowned for traditional weaving on backstrap looms, the techniques handed down from mother to daughter. Abstract flower and animal motifs such as buffalo, dragons, crocodiles and snakes sometimes decorate this exquisite cloth. Several villages specialise in weaving cloth, while others concentrate on fine baskets and mats woven from rattan or grass. You can visit factories around Cakranegara and Mataram that produce weft ikat on old hand-and-foot-operated looms.

Sukarara and Pringgasela are centres for traditional ikat and songket weaving. Sarongs, Sasak belts and clothing edged with brightly coloured embroidery are sold in small shops.

WOODCARVING

Woodcarving in Bali has evolved from its traditional use for doors and columns, religious figures and the theatrical masks to modern forms encompassing a wide range of styles. While Tegallalang and Jati, on the road north from Ubud, are noted woodcarving centres, along with the route from Mas through Peliatan, you can find pieces in any souvenir store.

The common style of a slender, elongated figure reportedly first appeared after Walter Spies gave a woodcarver a long piece of wood and commissioned him to carve two sculptures from it. The carver couldn’t bring himself to cut it in half, instead making a single figure of a tall, slim dancer.

The website www.lombok-network.com gives details of customs on Lombok, and the arts and crafts of various areas.

Other typical works include classical religious figures, animal caricatures, life-size human skeletons, picture frames, and whole tree trunks carved into ghostly ‘totem poles’. In Kuta, there are various objects targeting beer drinkers: dildo beer-openers and signs to sit above your bar (perhaps next to the skeleton) bearing made-to-order slogans like Billy’s Bar or Last Drink For 300km. You can also find life-sized American Indians, and enough species of animals to create your own replica zoo!

Almost all carving is of local woods including belalu, a quick-growing light wood, and the stronger fruit timbers such as jackfruit wood. Ebony from Sulawesi is also used. Sandalwood, with its delightful fragrance, is expensive and soft and is used for some small, very detailed pieces.

On Lombok, carving usually decorates functional items such as containers for tobacco and spices, and the handles of betel-nut crushers and knives. Materials include wood, horn and bone, and you’ll see these used in the recent trend: primitive-style elongated masks. Cakranegara, Sindu, Labuapi and Senanti are centres for carving on the island.

Wooden articles lose moisture when moved to a drier environment. Avoid possible shrinkage by placing the carving in a plastic bag at home, and letting some air in for about one week every month for four months.

Mask Carving

Masks used in theatre and dance performances such as the Topeng require a specialised form of woodcarving. The mask master – always a man – must know the movements each performer uses so the character can be accurately depicted in the mask. These masks are believed to possess magical qualities and can even have the ability to stare down bad spirits.

Belgian artist Adrien Jean Le Mayeur married renowned Legong (classic Balinese dance) dancer Ni Polok when he was 55 and she was 15. His house of antique carvings became a museum (Click here).

Other masks, such as the Barong and Rangda, are brightly painted and decorated with real hair, enormous teeth and bulging eyes.

Mas is the centre of mask carving and the Museum Negeri Propinsi Bali in Denpasar has an extensive mask collection so you can get acquainted with different styles before buying.

STONE CARVING

Traditionally for temple adornment, stone sculptures now make popular souvenirs ranging from frangipani reliefs to quirky ornaments that display the Balinese sense of humour: a frog clutching a leaf as an umbrella, or a weird demon on the side of a bell clasping his hands over his ears in mock offence.

At temples, you will see stone carving in set places. Door guardians are usually a protective personality such as Arjuna. Above the main entrance, Kala’s monstrous face often peers out, his hands reaching out to catch evil spirits. The side walls of a pura dalem (temple of the dead) might feature sculpted panels showing the horrors awaiting evildoers in the afterlife.

Among Bali’s most ancient stone carvings are the scenes of people fleeing a great monster at Goa Gadja, the so-called ‘Elephant Cave’ Click here, believed to date to the 11th century. Inside the cave, a statue of Ganesha, the elephant-like god, gives the rock its name. Compare this to modern sculptures like the McDonald’s characters outside its Kuta restaurant for a taste of the clash between new and old in Bali.

A carefully selected list of books about art, culture and Balinese writers, dancers and musicians can be found at www.ganeshabooksbali.com/bookstore.html.

Much of the local work is made in Batubulan from grey volcanic stone called paras, so soft it can be scratched with a fingernail (which, according to legend, is how the giant Kebo Iwa created the Elephant Cave). Because the stone is light, it’s possible to take a friendly stone demon home in your luggage, but be wary of careless handling.

KRIS

Usually adorned with an ornate, jewel-studded handle and a sinister-looking wavy blade, the kris is Bali’s traditional, ceremonial dagger, dating back to the Majapahit era. A kris is often the most important of family heirlooms, a symbol of prestige and honour and a work of high-end art. Made by a master craftsman, it’s believed to have great spiritual power, sending out magical energy waves and thus requiring great care in its handling and use.

OTHER CRAFTS

To see potters at work, visit Ubung and Kapal, north and west of Denpasar respectively. Nearly all local pottery is made from low-fired terracotta and is very ornate, as are functional items such as vases, flasks, ashtrays and lamp bases. Pejaten, near Tabanan, also has a number of workshops producing ceramic figures and glazed ornamental roof tiles. Stunning collections of designer, contemporary glazed ceramics are produced at Jenggala Keramik in Jimbaran, which also hosts exhibitions of various Indonesian art and antiques.

Australian artist Donald Friend found the freedom to pursue his provocative art and lifestyle in Bali in the 1960s. Living in Sanur, he created the Tanjung Sari Hotel, the island’s first boutique hotel, and helped launch modern interpretations of Balinese architecture.

Earthenware pots have been produced on Lombok for centuries. They’re shaped by hand, coated with a slurry of clay or ash to enhance the finish, and fired in a simple kiln filled with burning rice stalks. Pots are often finished with a covering of woven cane for decoration and extra strength. Newer designs feature bright colours and elaborate decorations. Penujak, Banyumulek and Masbagik are some of the main pottery villages, or head towards Mataram to visit the Lombok Pottery Centre.

Lombok is also noted for its spiral-woven rattan basketware; bags made of lontar or split bamboo; small boxes made of woven grass; plaited rattan mats; and decorative boxes of palm leaves shaped like rice barns and decorated with shells. Kotaraja and Loyok are noted for fine basketware, while Rungkang, near Loyok, combines pottery and basketware. Sayang is known for palm-leaf boxes.

Architecture

BALI

Bali’s architecture plays such a key role in religious, cultural and social customs that it gets its own colour section.

LOMBOK

Similarly to Bali, Lombok’s architecture is governed by traditional laws and practices. Construction must begin on a propitious day, always with an odd-numbered date, and the building’s frame must be completed on that same day.

A traditional Sasak village layout is a walled enclosure. There are three types of buildings – the beruga (open-sided pavilion), the bale tani (family house) and the lumbung (rice barn). The beruga and bale tani are both rectangular, with low walls and a steeply pitched thatched roof, although, of course, the beruga is much larger. A bale tani is made of bamboo on a base of compacted mud. It usually has no windows and the arrangement of rooms is very standardised. There is a serambi (open verandah) at the front and two rooms on two different levels inside – one for cooking and entertaining guests, the other for sleeping and storage. There are some picturesque traditional Sasak villages in Rembitan and Sade near Kuta.

All temples and homes in Bali face the sacred Gunung Agung to pay homage to the source of irrigation for rice fields, and the site of Bali’s mother temple, Pura Besakih.

Following its period under Balinese control in the 18th and 19th centuries, Lombok also features some fine examples of ancient Balinese architecture like the Mayura water palace (Click here) and Pura Meru (Click here). The magnificent temple compound, Pura Lingsar, is the holiest on Lombok and contains both a Balinese Hindu and a Wektu Telu temple, representing the relationship between the two religions.

Food & Drink

   STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
   DRINKS
   CELEBRATIONS & CEREMONIES
   WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
   VEGETARIANS
   EATING WITH KIDS
   HABITS & CUSTOMS
   COOKING COURSES
   EAT YOUR WORDS

Food, glorious food. Or should that be food, laborious food? Balinese cooking is a time-consuming activity, but no effort at all is required to enjoy it. That part is easy, and it’s one of the best things about travelling around Bali: the sheer variety and quality of the local cuisine will have your taste buds dancing all the way to the next warung (food stall). You’ll be hard-pressed to have a bad meal. Quite the opposite, you’ll probably find the biggest problem is making room in your tummy and limiting yourself to three meals a day!

The fragrant aroma of Balinese cooking will taunt you wherever you go. Even in your average village compound, the finest food is prepared fresh every day. Women go to their local marketplace first thing in the morning to buy whatever produce has been brought from the farms overnight. They cook enough to last all day, diligently roasting the coconut until the smoky sweetness kisses your nose, painstakingly grinding the spices to form the perfect paste (base) and perhaps even making fresh fragrant coconut oil for frying. The dishes are covered on a table or stored in a glass cabinet for family members to help themselves to throughout the day.

Lonely Planet’s World Food Indonesia by Patrick Witton has the low-down on Balinese high feasts as well as details of the cuisine for which the islands are known.

A traditional Balinese kitchen has a wood-fired oven fuelled by bamboo or sometimes even coffee wood that creates a smoky sweetness and wonderful earthy flavour. While modern gas-powered stoves are now common, the freshness of ingredients and particular blend of spices remain defining characteristics of Balinese cuisine.

Compared with other Indonesian islands, Balinese food is more pungent and lively, with a multitude of layers that make the complete dish. A meal will contain the six flavours (sweet, sour, spicy, salty, bitter and astringent), which promote health and vitality and stimulate the senses.

There’s a predominance of ginger, chilli and coconut flavours, as well as the beloved candlenut, often mistaken for the macadamia native to Australia. The biting combination of fresh galangal and turmeric is matched by the heat of raw chillies, the complex sweetness of palm sugar, tamarind and shrimp paste, and the clean fresh flavours of lemongrass, musk lime, kaffir lime leaves and coriander seeds.

MARKET LIFE

There’s no better place to get acquainted with Balinese cuisine than the local market. But it’s not for late sleepers. The best time to go is around 6am to 7am. If you’re any later than 10am, the best selections have been snapped up and what’s left has begun to rot in the tropical climate.

Markets offer a glimpse of the variety and freshness of Balinese produce, often brought from the mountains within a day or two of being harvested, sometimes sooner. The atmosphere is lively and colourful with baskets loaded with fresh fruits, vegetables, flowers, spices, and varieties of red, black and white rice. There are trays of live chickens, dead chickens, freshly slaughtered pigs, sardines, eggs, colourful cakes, ready-made offerings and base (spice paste), and stalls selling es cendol (colourful iced coconut drink), bubur (rice porridge) or nasi campur (mixed rice) for breakfast. There are small packets of coffee, noodles and cleaning detergents, and cooking utensils made from natural materials, such as a stone spice grinder, coconut-wooden spoons, coconut-shell ladles and bamboo steaming pots. There’s no refrigeration, so things come in small packages and what you see is for immediate sale. Bargaining is expected.

Good markets include Pasar Badung in Denpasar; the village market Click here in Jimbaran; Bemo Corner in Kuta; Pasar Bedugal (a stone’s throw from the farms); and the produce market Click here on Ubud’s Jl Raya Ubud. Market tours are usually included in cooking courses Click here.

There are shades of South Indian, Malaysian and Chinese flavours, stemming from centuries of migration and trading with seafaring pioneers. Many ingredients have been introduced; the humble chilli was brought by the fearless Portuguese, the ubiquitous snake bean and bok choy by the Chinese, and the rice substitute, cassava, by the Dutch. In true Balinese style, village chefs selected the finest and most durable new ingredients and adapted them to local tastes and cooking styles.

As it has developed into a tourist resort, Bali has become the clichéd melting pot for cuisine from around Indonesia and the world. Once famous for standard backpacker fare like jaffles, banana pancakes and black-rice pudding, Bali now offers the best of French, Moroccan, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Indian and even Russian cuisine. Lombok’s tourist spots, especially Senggigi and the Gili Islands, also boast a variety of food from around the world. In fact, the diversity is so great in Bali and Lombok that it’s easy to eat Western or other Asian cuisine every meal, if that’s your preference, but it will also be your loss! Click here for our top picks.

Janet de Neefe’s Fragrant Rice is part memoir, part cookbook and part cultural guide. It’s a warm and informative telling of her deepening immersion into Balinese life, framed around traditional food and the rich rituals and customs that surround it.

Return to beginning of chapter

STAPLES & SPECIALITIES

Rice is the staple dish in Bali and Lombok and is revered as a gift of life from God (Click here). It is served generously for every meal – anything not served with rice is considered jaja (a snack). It acts as the medium for the various fragrant, spiced foods that accompany it, almost like condiments, with many dishes chopped finely to complement the dry, fluffy grains and for ease of eating with the hand. In Bali, this dish of steamed rice with mixed goodies is known as nasi campur. It’s the island’s undisputed ‘signature’ dish, eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

There are as many variations of nasi campur as there are warung. Just like a sandwich in the West can combine any number of fillings, each warung serves its own version according to budget, taste and whatever ingredients are fresh at the market. There are typically four or five different dishes that make up a single serving, including a small portion of pork or chicken (small because meat is expensive), fish, tofu and/or tempe (fermented soy-bean cake), egg, various vegetable dishes and crunchy krupuk (flavoured rice crackers). Beef rarely features, as the Balinese believe cows are sacred. These ‘side dishes’ are arrayed around the centrepiece of rice and accompanied by the warung’s signature sambal (paste made from chillies, garlic or shallots, and salt). The food is not usually served hot, as it has been prepared in the morning.

Heinz von Holzen, the chef-owner of Bumbu Bali restaurant and author of numerous books on Balinese cuisine, says many people mistakenly believe Balinese food is spicy. ‘The food itself is not normally spicy, the sambal is’, Heinz says. That said, the Balinese certainly like some heat, and relish a dollop of fiery sambal with every meal; you may want to taste it to gauge the temperature before ploughing in. If you can’t tolerate spicy food, request tanpa sambal (without chilli paste), but make sure your pronunciation is not confused with tamba (more) sambal!

The Food of Bali by Heinz von Holzen and Lother Arsana brings to life everything from cram cam (clear chicken soup with shallots) to bubuh injin (black-rice pudding). Von Holzen’s books also include a forthcoming one on Balinese markets.

Bali’s multicultural population means many warung serve pan-Indonesian and Asian cuisine, offering a taste of different foods from across the archipelago. Common menu items are often confused with being Balinese, such as nasi goreng (fried rice), mie goreng (fried noodles), the ever-popular gado-gado, which is actually from Java, and rendang sapi (beef curry), which is from Sumatra. There are many Padang restaurants (Click here) in main tourist areas of Bali and Lombok, and Chinese food is especially common on Lombok. See the boxed text,, for some of Lombok’s famous dishes.

SPICY SASAK FLAVOURS

Lombok’s Sasak people are predominantly Muslim, so Bali’s porky plethora does not feature in their diet of fish, chicken, vegetables and rice. The fact that lombok means chilli in Indonesian makes sense, as Sasaks like their food spicy; ayam taliwang (whole split chicken roasted over coconut husks served with a peanut, tomato-chilli-lime dip) is one example.

Ares is a dish made with chilli, coconut juice and banana-palm pith; sometimes it’s mixed with chicken or meat. Sate pusut is a delicious combination of minced fish, chicken or beef flavoured with coconut milk, garlic, chilli and other spices and wrapped around a lemongrass stick and grilled. Three vegetarian dishes are kelor (hot soup with vegetables), serebuk (vegetables mixed with grated coconut) and timun urap (sliced cucumber with grated coconut, onion and garlic).

Breakfast

Many Balinese save their appetite for lunch. They might kick-start the day with a cup of rich, sweet black coffee and a few sweet jaja at the market: colourful temple cakes, glutinous rice cakes, boiled bananas in their peels, fried banana fritters and kelopon (sweet-centred rice balls). Popular fresh fruits include snake fruit, named after its scaly skin, and jackfruit, which is also delicious stewed with vegetables.

The famous bubur injin (black-rice pudding with palm sugar, grated coconut and coconut milk), which most tourists find on restaurant dessert menus, is actually a breakfast dish and a fine way to start the day. Another variation available at the morning market is the nutty bubur kacang hijau (green mung-bean pudding) fragrantly enriched by ginger and pandan leaf and served warm with coconut milk. It’s popular with pregnant women, as it’s believed to bestow a good head of hair to the baby.

If the Balinese feel like a bigger breakfast, nasi campur is the standard fare they’ll opt for. They may eat leftovers from the previous day while they await the fresh offerings at lunch, or grab a fresh nasi bungkus (takeaway meal wrapped in banana leaves or grease-proof paper) at a market stall or street cart.

Lunch & Dinner

The household or warung cook usually finishes preparing the day’s dishes midmorning, so lunchtime is around 11am when the food is freshest. This is the main meal of the day. Leftovers are eaten for dinner, or by tourists who awake late and do not get around to lunch until well and truly after everyone else has had their fill! Dessert is a rarity; for special occasions, it consists of fresh fruit or gelati-style coconut ice cream.

The secret to a good nasi campur is often in the cook’s own base, which flavours the pork, chicken or fish, and sambal, and which may add just the right amount of heat to the meal at one place, or set your mouth ablaze at another. The range of dishes is endless. Some local favourites include babi kecap (pork stewed in sweet soy sauce), ayam goreng (fried chicken), urap (steamed vegetables with coconut), lawar (see the boxed text, opposite), fried tofu or tempe in a sweet soy or chilli sauce, fried peanuts, salty fish or eggs, perkodel (fried corn cakes) and various satay made from chunks of goat meat, chicken, pork or even turtle, although there are laws against illegal turtle slaughter.

If you really enjoy spicy food, you can ask the staff in any restaurant to serve a fresh sambal of chopped chilli drowned in kecap manis (sweet soy sauce).

Ceremonial dishes (Click here) are widely available at warung and restaurants, and a meal of babi guling (suckling pig) is the quintessential Bali experience. The whole pig is stuffed with chilli, turmeric, ginger, galangal, shallots, garlic, coriander seeds and aromatic leaves, basted in turmeric and coconut oil and skewered on a wooden spit over an open fire. Men perform the sweaty and no doubt mouth-watering job of turning it for hours and hours until it’s cooked to perfection, the meat taking on the flavour of the spices inside the animal’s stomach, and the fire-pit giving a rustic smoky flavour to the crispy crackling.

Short of being invited to a ceremonial feast (for which you should acquire appropriate dress!), you can enjoy babi guling at the famous Warung Ibu Oka near Ubud’s royal palace. Another highly recommended babi guling specialist that’s yet to be ‘discovered’ is Warung Dobil on Jl Srikandi in Nusa Dua.

Bebek or ayam betutu (smoked duck or chicken) is another ceremonial favourite. The bird is stuffed with spices, wrapped in coconut bark and banana leaves, and cooked all day over smouldering rice husks and coconut husks. Ubud is the best place to enjoy smoked duck – head to Bebek Bengil. Ayam betutu is more prevalent in Denpasar. Often served at marriage ceremonies, jukut ares is a light, fragrant broth made from banana stem and usually containing chopped chicken or pork. The satay for special occasions, sate lilit, is a fragrant combination of good-quality minced fish, chicken or pork with lemongrass, galangal, shallots, chilli, palm sugar, kaffir lime and coconut milk. This is wrapped onto skewers and grilled. Big ceremonies will call for hundreds of sate lilit, which is becoming more common on restaurant menus. Snap it up if you see it!

White pepper is the preferred pepper in Asia, so don’t be surprised if it’s hard to find black pepper in restaurants.

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DRINKS

Beer drinkers are well catered for in Bali thanks to Indonesia’s national brew, Bintang, and locally produced Storm microbrews, which are excellent if somewhat uncommon. Wine connoisseurs, however, had better have a fat wallet. The abundance of high-end eateries and hotels has made fine vino from the world’s best regions widely available but it is whacked with a hefty luxury tax. There are two local producers. The finest is Wine of the Gods, which overcomes the import duties by bringing freshly crushed grapes from Western Australia and processing and bottling the wine in Denpasar. Hatten Wine, based in North Bali, has gained quite a following for its glowing pink rosé. While alcohol is not as prolific on Lombok, liquors and beer are available in touristy areas like Senggigi.

At large social gatherings, Balinese men might indulge in arak (fermented rice wine that tourists may associate with rocket fuel in Kuta bars), but generally they are not big drinkers, and Lombok’s majority Muslim population frowns upon alcohol consumption. Local non-alcoholic refreshments available from markets, street vendors and some warung are colourful, tasty and even a little psychedelic without the hangover! One of Bali’s most popular is cendol, an interesting mix of palm sugar, fresh coconut milk, crushed ice and various other random flavourings and floaties. Another adventurous concoction is daluman (see the boxed text,), while a creamy treat is es teler, a mix of avocado, young coconut and sago. Fresh coconut juice is enjoyed straight out of the shell through a straw at many tourist sites.

WE DARE YOU Janet de Neefe

Horrifying to most tourists, daluman is a wobbly green drink full of natural chlorophyll and a bunch of health-giving nutrients. You could be forgiven for thinking it’s green slime or something scooped out of a Balinese river, but when served with palm-sugar syrup and a swirl of roasted coconut milk, it is sublime! It cools down a hot tummy and is said to help prevent stomach cancer.

Eels are an islandwide favourite and there’s nothing tastier than deep-fried seasoned eel or even eel chopped and steamed in banana leaves, with freshly ground spices and a touch of delicate torch ginger.

Lawar is another popular dish not for the faint-hearted: a mix of vegetables including long beans, young jackfruit, young papaya, star fruit leaves and wild fern tips are hand-mixed with chopped fried liver, fried entrails, a dollop of congealed pig’s blood, and flavoured with fragrant coconut milk broth, roasted shredded coconut and sambal.

For a refreshing treat, try es campur. It is a mountainous mix of crushed ice, fresh fruits, fermented yam, seaweed jelly and lashings of sweetened condensed milk and iridescent pink syrup.

TOP FIVE TOP-END RESTAURANTS

• Bumbu Bali – Hands-down the best Balinese food on the island in a traditional house set-up. Gorge on the rijsttafel.
• Kafe Warisan – Lauded as Bali’s best restaurant for its classic French fare with (receding) rice-paddy views. Save room for dessert.
• La Lucciola – Magical beachfront setting, delightful Mediterranean food. Don’t miss brunch.
• Lombok Lounge in Kuta, Lombok – Scintillating chilli crab and mouth-smacking Sasak favourites like sate pusut.
• Mozaic – Modern French food with a Balinese twist. Indulge in the tasting menu.

Many Western eateries sell imported coffees and teas alongside local brands, some of which are very good, but by far the most expensive – and arguably the world’s rarest – is Indonesia’s peculiar kopi luwak, aka ‘cat-poo coffee’. Around 200,000Rp a cup, this coffee is named after the cat-like civet (luwak) indigenous to Sulawesi, Sumatra and Java that feasts on ripe coffee cherries. Entrepreneurs with a nose for a gimmick collect the intact beans found in the civet’s droppings and process them to produce an extra-bitter, strong brew. Anyone keen for a cup of – quite literally – shit coffee can find it at Bali@Cyber Café Click here in Kuta.

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CELEBRATIONS & CEREMONIES

Food is not just about enjoyment and sustenance. Like everything in Balinese life, it is an intrinsic part of the daily rituals and a major part of ceremonies to honour the gods. The menu varies according to the importance of the occasion. By far the most revered dish is babi guling (Click here), presented during rites-of-passage ceremonies such as a baby’s three-month blessing, an adolescent’s tooth filing, or a wedding. This will be accompanied by towers of sate (satay), plaques of sarad (colourful rice cakes) and nasi kuning (pyramids of yellow rice flavoured with saffron, turmeric and ginger). A small home ceremony might include bebek betutu (Click here) and jukut ares (Click here).

Balinese ceremonies are determined by the phases of the sun, the moon and the stars, and you only have to glance at a Balinese calendar to see how many religious celebrations are held annually. For more information on the Balinese calendar, check out www.indo.com/culture/calendar.html.

While women cook the daily food, only men are allowed to be ceremonial chefs, becoming ‘spice Gods’ for the occasion. The action begins in the early hours of the morning, when pigs, ducks or chickens are slaughtered and then prepared for a banquet of dishes that will be used as offerings to God and to feed all those who have helped in the preparations. It’s community work at its best, sometimes with hundreds of men pounding meat and grinding kilos of spices, chopping and slicing vegetables, boiling coconut milk, frying entrails and making hundreds of satays. Once blessed, the cooked food is shared and eaten by the family and their guests.

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WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

The most common place for dining out in Bali and Lombok is a warung, the traditional roadside eatery. There’s one every few metres in major towns, and several even in small villages. They are cheap, no-frills hang-outs with a couple of well-worn bench seats and a relaxed atmosphere; you may find yourself sharing a table with strangers as you watch the world go by. The food is fresh and different at each, and usually displayed in a glass cabinet at the entrance where you can create your own nasi campur or just order the house standard.

A warung lesehan (resting place) is often found hugging the coastline or out in the villages. These simple above-ground wooden pavilions are furnished with low tables and bamboo mats on which diners sit.

Rumah makan or restoran is a step above a warung in terms of atmosphere, although the food is often similar. For fine dining, there are many more upmarket and expensive restaurants particularly in Seminyak (home to Jl Laksmana) and Ubud, and in exclusive hotels. These are often run by chefs who serve excellent world-class cuisine, some of it inspired by Balinese flavours or techniques. See opposite for our top picks.

Quick Eats

As many Balinese can’t afford fine food and surrounds, the most authentic food is found at street level. Even high-rollers know this, and businessmen, politicians and judges gather alongside taxi drivers and construction workers around simple food stalls in markets and on village streets, wave down dagang (mobile traders) who ferry sweet and savoury snacks around by bicycle or motorcycle, and queue for sate or bakso (Chinese meatballs in a light soup) at the kaki-lima carts. Kaki-lima translates as something five-legged and refers to the three legs of the cart and the two of the vendor, who is usually Javanese. You can see the carts winding through village streets and scurrying out of the way of buses and trucks on busy highways. Click here for hygiene considerations regarding street food.

Every town of any size in Bali and Lombok will have a pasar malam (night market). You can sample a vast range of fresh offerings from warung and carts after dark.

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VEGETARIANS

Bali is a dream come true for vegetarians. Protein-rich tofu and tempe are part of the staple diet, and many local dishes that just happen to be vegetarian are so tasty they almost convert carnivores. Try nasi saur (rice flavoured by toasted coconut and accompanied by tofu, tempe, vegetables and sometimes egg), urap (a delightful blend of steamed vegetables mixed with grated coconut and spices), gado-gado (tofu and tempe mixed with steamed vegetables, boiled egg and peanut sauce), and sayur hijau (leafy green vegetables, usually kangkung – water spinach – flavoured with a tomato-chilli sauce). See the boxed text on Click here for Sasak-style vegetarian food on Lombok.

TOP FIVE WARUNG

• Ayam Goreng Kalasan – Amazing chicken that’s been marinated in a plethora of spices.
• Cak Asm – Spotless place serving truly amazing fare, especially seafood.
• Nasi Ayam Kedewatan – The place for sate lilit in a simple open-front dining room on the edge of Ubud.
• Warung Kolega – With an extension range of delicious dishes from across the archipelago, this warung offers an authentic alternative to the touristy places along Seminyak’s ‘Eat Street’ (Jl Oberoi).
• Warung Nikmat – Great fare in an area (Tuban) better known for humdrum offerings.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

The dreaded Bali Belly is not nearly as common as it once was and that old rule of avoiding raw foods in Bali no longer applies. Most warung and restaurants take great care with hygiene, particularly in tourist areas, and wash vegetables and fruits in bottled or at least boiled water.

However, if you want to sample the street food, keep in mind that meat products that sit in a glass cabinet in tropical heat require a major dose of preservatives such as formaldehyde and probably lashings of MSG. Known as ‘ajina moto’, MSG is also used as a flavouring in many warung. Those that don’t use it will often advertise this to attract the tourist crowd.

Padang restaurants are especially risky hygiene-wise. While delicious when cooked fresh, Padang fare (which originates from Sumatra) takes the idea of ‘sharing a meal’ to a new level. The dishes are displayed in a glass cabinet and the waiter brings a portion of each to your table. You’re free to sample as few or as many as you like: a spoonful of this, a spoonful of that. What a great way to try so many different dishes and flavours. But, here’s the kicker: what you don’t eat (and similarly what the person before you didn’t eat) is mixed back into the big pots, ready for the next table. Waste not, want not!

In addition, the way nasi campur is served means it’s easy to request no meat, instead enjoying an array of fresh stir-fries, salads and tofu and tempe. When ordering curries and stir-fries such as cap cay in both Bali and Lombok, diners can usually choose either meat, seafood or vegetarian.

Western-style vegetarian pasta and salads abound in most restaurants and many purely vegetarian eateries cater for vegans. Famous for their gourmet organic fare are Zula Vegetarian Paradise in Seminyak, Bali, and the vegetarian-with-a-view, Astari in Kuta, Lombok.

For ‘aquatarians’ (vegetarians who eat seafood), nearly all menus feature several seafood options. In Bali the string of seafood warung Click here along Jimbaran beach are famous for their whole fish barbecued over coconut husks and served with Balinese condiments at your table on the sand as the sun goes down. If you’re heading up the east coast, stop at any of the numerous warung lesehan along the main road to Karangasem, after the Keramas surf break, which are renowned for serving delicious minced seafood three ways: grilled inside banana leaves (ikan pepes), rolled over a wooden skewer (sate lilit), or rounded into balls and served with soup (bakso). On Lombok, delicious fresh grilled fish can be found at Warung Manega in Senggigi, and Juku on Gili Trawangan.

For an exhaustive run-down of eating options in Bali, check out www.balieats.com. The listings are encyclopaedic, although you may wish it were a bit more critical.

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EATING WITH KIDS

Eating out as a family is one of the joys of travelling around Bali and Lombok. Highchairs are not common but children are treated like deitiesby doting staff who will clamour to grab yours (especially young babies) while Mum and Dad enjoy some quiet time together. Try not to be too uptight about strangers getting up close and personal with your little ’uns. Indonesians just cannot help themselves, so sit back, relax and enjoy the opportunity!

Obviously, if your children don’t like spicy foods, show caution in offering them local cuisine. Many warung will serve food without sauces upon request, such as plain white rice, fried tempe or tofu, chicken, boiled vegetables and boiled egg. Most restaurants serve old favourites like spaghetti, chips, eggs on toast, and ice cream.

Commercial baby foods and milk formula are available in supermarkets.

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HABITS & CUSTOMS

Eating is a solitary exercise in Bali and conversation is limited. Families rarely eat together; everyone makes up their own plate whenever they’re hungry.

The Balinese eat with their right hand, which is used to give and receive all good things. The left hand deals with unpleasant sinister elements (such as ablutions). It’s customary to wash your hands before eating, even if you use a spoon and fork; local restaurants always have a sink outside the restrooms. If you choose to eat the local way, use the bowl of water provided at the table to wash your hands after the meal, as licking your fingers is not appreciated.

Despite its name, mangosteen is not related to the mango. It is, however, a popular tropical fruit for the peach-like flavour and texture of its white centre, and is often called ‘queen of fruit’.

The easygoing Balinese do not complain in restaurants, but if there’s something you don’t like about a meal, you will get a better response if you let the waiter know in a polite, almost apologetic way.

Balinese are formal about behaviour and clothing, and it isn’t polite to enter a restaurant or eat a meal half-naked, no matter how many sit-ups you’ve been doing or new piercings and tattoos you’ve acquired. And while it’s OK to chomp on your food, blowing your nose at the table is quite offensive.

If you wish to eat in front of a Balinese, it’s polite to invite them to join you, even if you know they will say ‘No’, or you don’t have anything to offer. If you’re invited to a Balinese home for a meal, your hosts will no doubt insist you eat more, but you may always politely pass on second helpings or refuse food you don’t find appealing.

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COOKING COURSES

Preparing your own Balinese banquet is a fantastic, hands-on way to get acquainted with the ingredients, flavours and techniques of Balinese cooking, and the habits and rituals associated with food. Even if you do not fancy yourself as a cook, you will savour every bite all the more for appreciating the work that went into it. There are several half- and full-day cooking courses in South Bali, which usually start with an early-morning market tour to introduce you to the freshness and variety of produce, and the vibrancy of market life. Look for cooking classes in Tanjung Benoa, Seminyak and Ubud (Click here).

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EAT YOUR WORDS

Although you won’t find language much of a barrier, see the Language chapter Click here for pronunciation guidelines.

You must not speak harshly of anything that lives in the rice fields, including ducks, eels, frogs and rats. Rice is the sacred grain and any creature that lives in these verdant fields must be treated with respect.

Useful Phrases

Here are some handy phrases that will help you enjoy a meal in Bali and Lombok.

A bowl of cooked kangkung (water spinach) for dinner is guaranteed to give you a good night’s sleep, as it is full of natural tryptophan.

Food & Drink Glossary

Almost every restaurant in Bali – from humble to fabled – will have a few of these classic dishes on the menu. Some can be found throughout Indonesia, others are unique to Bali and/or Lombok.

Green coconut juice is the perfect traditional remedy for heatstroke, Bali belly and fever.

• air botol, aqua – bottled water
• air minum – drinking water
• arak – spirits distilled from palm sap
• ayam – chicken
• ayam taliwang – whole split chicken roasted over coconut husks served with a tomato-chilli-lime dip (Lombok)
• babi – pig
• babi guling – spit-roast pig stuffed with a Balinese spice paste (Bali)
• bakmi/mie goreng – rice-flour noodles fried with vegetables, and often meat and sauces
• bakso ayam – light chicken soup with glass noodles and meatballs; a street-stall standard
• bebek betutu – duck stuffed with Balinese spice paste, wrapped in coconut bark and banana leaves and cooked all day over smouldering rice husks and coconut husks (Bali)
• beef rendang – beef cooked until very tender with coconut and spices
• brem – a type of rice wine, distilled from white and black rice (Bali)
• bubur injin – black-rice pudding made from black sticky rice and served with coconut milk (Bali)
• cap cai – stir-fried vegetables (Chinese)
• cendol – coconut-milk drink mixed with palm sugar and crushed ice
• daging sapi – beef
• dingin – cold
• es campur – a mixture of sliced fresh fruit, coconut fruits, seaweed jelly and fermented cassava served with shaved ice and sweet syrup
• fu yung hai – a Chinese-style omelette with a sweet-and-sour sauce
• gado-gado – steamed or salad vegetables tossed in a spicy peanut sauce
• goreng – fried
• isen – galangal, a gingerlike spice; also called laos and lengkuas
• ikan – fish
• jambu – guava
• jeruk manis – orange
• kacang – peanut
• kari – curry
• kelor – hot soup with vegetables (Lombok)
• kentang – potatoes
• kepiting – crab
• kerupuk – rice crackers; also called krupuk
• kodok – frog
• kopi – coffee
• krupuk udang – prawn crackers
• lawar – a salad of chopped coconut, spices, meat (pork, chicken or liver) and sometimes blood
• mangga – mango
• mie kuah – noodle soup
• nanas – pineapple
• nangka – jackfruit
• nasi campur – steamed rice served with a selection of meat and vegetable side dishes
• nasi goreng – fried rice that includes Chinese greens and often meat; often served with satay and a fried egg
• nasi putih – plain white steamed rice
• pahit – ‘bitter’; word meaning ‘no sugar’ in tea or coffee
• panas – hot (temperature)
• pepesan ikan – spiced fish wrapped in banana leaves and steamed or grilled
• pisang goreng – fried banana fritters; a popular streetside snack
• rambutan – red fruit covered in hairy spines, containing sweet white flesh
• rendang – beef coconut curry
• rijsttafel – literally, rice table; a Dutch adaptation of an Indonesian banquet encompassing a wide variety of dishes
• sambal – chilli sauce or paste; contains chillies, garlic or shallots, and salt
• sares – chilli, coconut juice and banana-palm pith; sometimes mixed with chicken or meat (Lombok)
• sate – grilled meat on skewers with peanut sauce; also spelled satay
• sayur – vegetable
• serebuk – vegetables mixed with grated coconut (Lombok)
• serombotan – spicy salad of chilli, water spinach, bean sprouts, long beans, coconut milk and peanuts
• soto ayam – light chicken soup
• susu – milk
• teh – tea
• tempe – Indonesian soy-bean cake
• timun urap – sliced cucumber with grated coconut, onion and garlic (Lombok)
• tom – pounded duck, pork, chicken or their livers, with spices and steamed in a banana leaves (Bali)
• tuak – palm beer/wine
• urap – greens with grated coconut, chilli, shallots and garlic

If you happen to be drinking coffee with a Balinese person, don’t be surprised if they tip the top layer of their coffee on the ground. This is an age-old protection against evil spirits.

Before sharing cooked food among themselves, the Balinese offer a little to the gods, in gratitude for the gift of life that food represents.

Environment

   THE LAND
   WILDLIFE
   NATIONAL PARKS
   ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

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THE LAND

Bali is a small island, midway along the string of islands that makes up the Indonesian archipelago. It’s adjacent to the most heavily populated island of Java, and immediately west of the chain of smaller islands comprising Nusa Tenggara, which includes Lombok.

The island is visually dramatic – a mountainous chain with a string of active volcanoes, it includes several peaks around 2000m. Gunung Agung, the ‘Mother Mountain’, is over 3000m high. The agricultural lands in Bali are south and north of the central mountains. The southern region is a wide, gently sloping area, where most of the country’s abundant rice crop is grown. The northern coastal strip is narrower, rising rapidly into the foothills of the central range. It receives less rain, but coffee, copra, rice and cattle are farmed there.

Each day Bali produces 150 tons of waste, at least 30% of which is non-biodegradable and most of which is generated directly or indirectly by tourism. That is everything from plastic water bottles to your empty container of sunblock.

Bali also has some arid, less-populated regions. These include the western mountain region, and the eastern and northeastern slopes of Gunung Agung. The Nusa Penida islands are dry, and cannot support intensive rice agriculture. The Bukit Peninsula is similarly dry, but with the growth of tourism and other industries, it’s becoming more populous.

Bali is volcanically active and extremely fertile. The two go hand-in-hand as eruptions contribute to the land’s exceptional fertility, and high mountains provide the dependable rainfall that irrigates Bali’s complex and amazingly beautiful patchwork of rice terraces. Of course, the volcanoes are a hazard as well – Bali has endured disastrous eruptions in the past and no doubt will again in the future. Apart from the volcanic central range, there are the limestone plateaus that form the Bukit Peninsula, in the extreme south of Bali, and the island of Nusa Penida.

As with Bali, Lombok’s traditional economy has driven intensive rice cultivation. The wooded slopes of Gunung Rinjani have provided timber, as have the coconut palms that also provide fibre and food. The land use has been environmentally sustainable for many years, and the island retains a natural beauty largely unspoiled by industry, overcrowding or overdevelopment.

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WILDLIFE

The island is geologically young, and while most of its living things have migrated from elsewhere, true native wild animals are rare. This is not hard to imagine in the heavily populated and extravagantly fertile south of Bali, where the orderly rice terraces are so intensively cultivated they look more like a work of sculpture than a natural landscape.

In fact, rice fields cover only about 20% of the island’s surface area, and there is a great variety of other environmental zones: the dry scrub of the northwest, the extreme northeast and the southern peninsula; patches of dense jungle in the river valleys; forests of bamboo; and harsh volcanic regions that are barren rock and volcanic tuff at higher altitudes. Lombok is similar in all these respects.

Balinese Flora & Fauna, published by Periplus, is a concise and beautifully illustrated guide to the animals and plants you’ll see in your travels. The feature on the ecology of a rice field is excellent.

Animals

Bali has lots and lots of lizards, and they come in all shapes and sizes. The small ones (onomatopoeically called cecak) that hang around light fittings in the evening, waiting for an unwary insect, are a familiar sight. Geckos are fairly large lizards, often heard but less often seen. The loud and regularly repeated two-part cry ‘geck-oh’ is a nightly background noise that visitors soon become accustomed to – it’s considered lucky if you hear the lizard call seven times.

RICE

Rice cultivation has shaped the social landscape in Bali – the intricate organisation necessary for growing rice is a large factor in the strength of community life. Rice cultivation has also changed the environmental landscape – terraced rice fields trip down hillsides like steps for a giant, in shades of gold, brown and green, green and more green.

The elaborate irrigation system used to grow rice makes careful use of all the surface water. The fields are a complete ecological system, home for much more than just rice. In the early morning you’ll often see the duck herders leading their flocks out for a day’s paddle around a flooded rice field; the ducks eat various pests and leave fertiliser in their wake.

There are three words for rice – padi is the growing rice plant (hence paddy fields); beras is the uncooked grain; and nasi is cooked rice, as in nasi goreng (fried rice) and nasi putih (plain rice). A rice field is called a sawah.

A harvested field with its leftover burnt rice stalks is soaked with water and repeatedly ploughed, often by two bullocks pulling a wooden plough. Once the field is muddy enough, a small corner is walled off and seedling rice is planted there. When it is a reasonable size, it’s replanted, shoot by shoot, in the larger field. While the rice matures, there is time to practise the gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestral music), watch the dancers or do a little woodcarving. Finally, the whole village turns out for the harvest – a period of solid hard work. While it’s strictly men-only planting the rice, everybody takes part in harvesting it.

In 1969, new high-yield rice varieties were introduced. These can be harvested a month sooner than the traditional variety and are resistant to many diseases. However, the new varieties also have greater needs for fertiliser and irrigation water, which strains the imperilled water supplies. More pesticides are also needed, causing the depletion of the frog and eel populations that depend on the insects for survival.

Although everyone agrees that the new rice doesn’t taste as good as padi Bali, the new strains now account for more than 90% of rice. Small areas of padi Bali are still planted and harvested in traditional ways to placate the rice goddess, Dewi Sri. Temples and offerings to her dot every rice field. One place you can still enjoy traditional rice is at Warung Beras Bali in Denpasar.

To learn more, see the boxed text Click here.

Bats are also quite common, and the little chipmunk-like Balinese squirrels are occasionally seen in the wild, although more often in cages.

Bali has more than 300 species of birds, but the one that is truly native to the island, the Bali starling, is probably extinct in the wild (thousands can be found in cages). Much more common are colourful birds like the orange-banded thrush, numerous species of egrets, kingfishers, parrots, owls and many more.

Keeping birds has been a part of Indonesian culture for centuries. It’s common to see caged songbirds and they are sold in most markets.

Bali’s only wilderness area, Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park, Click here), has a number of wild species, including grey and black monkeys (which you will also see in the mountains and East Bali), muncak (mouse deer), squirrels and iguanas. Bali used to have tigers and, although there are periodic rumours of sightings in the remote northwest of the island, nobody has proof of seeing one for a long time. Mostly though, Bali and Lombok aren’t places to visit if you want to marvel at wildlife in nature.

There is a rich variety of coral, seaweed, fish and other marine life in the coastal waters off the islands. Much of it can be appreciated by snorkellers, but you’re only likely to see the larger marine animals while diving. The huge, placid sunfish found off Nusa Penida lure divers from around the world.

Dolphins can be found right around the island and have unfortunately been made into an attraction off Lovina.

SEA TURTLES

Both the green sea and hawksbill turtles inhabit the waters around Bali and Lombok, and the species are supposedly protected by international laws that prohibit trade in anything made from sea turtles.

In Bali, however, green sea turtle meat is a traditional and very popular delicacy, particularly for Balinese feasts. Bali is the site of the most intensive slaughter of green sea turtles in the world –no reliable figures are available, although in 1999 it was estimated that more than 30,000 are killed annually. It’s easy to find the trade on the backstreets of waterside towns such as Benoa. Ironically, tourism money helps more people afford turtle meat both for consumption and for religious rituals and offerings.

Still, some progress is being made. ‘People in Kuta used to eat turtles, now they save them,’ says Wayan Wiradnyana, head of ProFauna in Bali, a group that works to protect animals across Indonesia. In Bali, the group has spurred police to enforce a 1999 ban on turtle killing and it has helped release turtles seized from poachers. But its biggest achievement has been in public education. ‘In Kuta,’ he says, ‘30 turtles a year lay eggs on the beach. The community now helps us guard them and make certain the babies hatch and get to the water.’

Many other individuals and organisations are involved in protecting the species, including Heinz von Holzen, the owner of Bumbu Bali restaurant in Tanjung Benoa, and the Reef Seen Turtle Project at Reef Seen Aquatics in Pemuteran. Bali’s Hindu Dharma, the body overseeing religious practice, has also contributed, decreeing that turtle meat is essential in only very vital ceremonies.

A broad coalition of divers and journalists supports the SOS Sea Turtles campaign (www.sos-seaturtles.ch), which spotlights turtle abuse in Bali. It has been instrumental in exposing the illegal poaching of turtles at Wakatobi National Park in Sulawesi for sale in Bali. This illegal trade is widespread and, like the drug trade, hard to prevent. The best way to stop it is to eliminate the market for poached turtles in Bali.

Turtle hatcheries open to the public such as the sanctuary on – fittingly – Turtle Island and another on Gili Meno. They do a good job of educating locals about the need to protect turtles and think of them as living creatures as opposed to satay, but many environmentalists are still against them for keeping captive turtles.

INTRODUCED SPECIES

Bali is thick with domestic animals, including ones that wake you up in the morning and others that bark throughout the night. Chickens and roosters are kept both for food purposes and as domestic pets. Cockfighting is a hugely popular male activity, and a man’s fighting bird is his prized possession (if you see a thicket of cars and motorbikes by the side of the road in rural Bali but don’t see any people, they may all be at a cockfight ‘hidden’ behind a building – like in Casablanca, the cops will be betting too).

One hawksbill sea turtle that visited Bali was tracked for the following year. His destinations: Java, Kalimantan, Australia (Perth and much of Queensland) and then back to Bali.

Dogs (when not pampered pets) have hard lives – they’re far down the social ladder, mostly ignored and thought by some to be friendly with evil spirits (thus the constant barking). But some people are trying to improve the lives of feral mutts; see the boxed text,.

Balinese pigs are related to the wild boar, and look really gross, with their sway backs and sagging stomachs. They inhabit the family compound, cleaning up all the garbage and eventually end up spit-roasted at a feast – they taste a lot better than they look!

Balinese cattle, by contrast, are delicate and graceful animals that seem more akin to deer than cows. Although the Balinese are Hindus, they do not generally treat cattle as holy animals, yet cows are seldom eaten or milked. They are, however, used to plough rice paddies and fields, and there is a major export market for Balinese cattle to Hong Kong and other parts of Asia.

Ducks are another everyday Balinese domestic animal and a regular dish at feasts. Ducks are kept in the family compound, and are put out to a convenient pond or flooded rice field to feed during the day. They follow a stick with a small flag tied to the end, and the stick is left planted in the field. As sunset approaches, the ducks gather around the stick and wait to be led home again. The morning and evening duck parades are one of Bali’s small delights.

Bali’s forests cover 127,000 hectares, ranging from virgin land to tree farms to densely forested mountain villages. The total is constantly under threat from wood-poaching for carved souvenirs and cooking fuel, and from development.

Plants

TREES

Almost all of the island is cultivated, and only in the Taman Nasional Bali Barat are there traces of Bali’s earliest plant life. As with most things in Bali, trees have a spiritual and religious significance, and you’ll often see them decorated with scarves and black-and-white chequered cloths. The waringin (banyan) is the holiest Balinese tree and no important temple is complete without a stately one growing within its precincts. The banyan is an extensive, shady tree with an exotic feature: creepers that drop from its branches take root to propagate a new tree. Thus the banyan is said to be ‘never-dying’, since new offshoots can always take root. Jepun (frangipani or plumeria trees), with their beautiful and sweet-smelling white flowers, are also common in temples and family compounds.

Bali has monsoonal rather than tropical rainforests, so it lacks the valuable rainforest hardwoods that require rain year-round. The forestry department is experimenting with new varieties in plantations around Taman Nasional Bali Barat, but at the moment, nearly all the wood used for carving is imported from Sumatra and Kalimantan.

A number of plants have great practical and economic significance. Tiing (bamboo) is grown in several varieties and is used for everything from satay sticks and string to rafters and gamelan resonators. The various types of palm provide coconuts, sugar, fuel and fibre.

FLOWERS & GARDENS

Balinese gardens are a delight. The soil and climate can support a huge range of plants, and the Balinese love of beauty and the abundance of cheap labour means that every space can be landscaped. The style is generally informal, with curved paths, a rich variety of plants and usually a water feature. Who can’t be enchanted by a frangipani tree dropping a carpet of fragrant blossoms?

THE WALLACE LINE

The 19th-century naturalist Sir Alfred Wallace (1822–1913) observed great differences in fauna between Bali and Lombok – as great as the differences between Africa and South America. In particular, there were no large mammals (elephants, rhinos, tigers etc) east of Bali, and very few carnivores. He postulated that during the ice ages, when sea levels were lower, animals could have moved by land from what is now mainland Asia all the way to Bali, but the deep Lombok Strait would always have been a barrier. He drew a line between Bali and Lombok, which he believed marked the biological division between Asia and Australia.

Plant life does not display such a sharp division, but there is a gradual transition from predominantly Asian rainforest species to mostly Australian plants such as eucalypts and acacias, which are better suited to long dry periods. This is associated with the lower rainfall as one moves east of Java. Environmental differences – including those in the natural vegetation – are now thought to provide a better explanation of the distribution of animal species than Wallace’s theory about limits to their original migrations.

Modern biologists do recognise a distinction between Asian and Australian fauna, but the boundary between the regions is regarded as much fuzzier than Wallace’s line. Nevertheless, this transitional zone between Asia and Australia is still called ‘Walacea’.

RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL

The best way to responsibly visit Bali and Lombok is to try to be as least-invasive as possible. This is of course easier than it sounds but consider the following tips:

• Watch your use of water. Travel into the rice-growing regions of Bali and you’ll think the island is coursing with water, but demand outstrips supply. Take up your hotel on its offer to save itself big money, er, no, to save lots of water, by not washing your sheets and towels every day. Cynicism aside, this will save water. You can also forgo your own private plunge pool at the high end, or a pool altogether – although this is almost impossible at any price level.
• Don’t hit the bottle. Those bottles of Aqua (the top local brand of bottled water, owned by Danone) are convenient but they add up. The zillions of such bottles tossed away each year are a major blight. Still, you’re wise not to refill from the tap, so what do you do? Ask your hotel if you can refill from their huge containers of drinking water. And, if your hotel doesn’t give you in-room drinking water in reusable glass containers, tell them you noticed and tell them you care. In Ubud, stop by the Pondok Pecak Library & Learning Centre – it will refill your water bottle and tell you which other businesses offer this service. In restaurants, ask for ‘air putih’, which will get you a glass of water from the Aqua jug out back, saving yet more plastic bottles.
• Don’t play golf. The resorts will hate this, but tough. Having two golf courses on the arid Bukit Peninsula is environmentally unsustainable.
• Support environmentally aware businesses. The number of businesses committed to good environmental practices is growing fast in Bali and Lombok. Check out the GreenDex in this book for a list.
• Conserve power. Sure you want to save your own energy on a sweltering afternoon, but using air-con strains an already overloaded system. Much of the electricity in Bali comes from Java and the rest is produced at the roaring and smoking plant near Benoa Harbour. Open the windows at night in Ubud for cool mountain breezes and the symphony of sounds off the rice fields.
• Don’t drive yourself crazy. The traffic is already bad – why add another vehicle to it? Can you take a tourist bus instead of a chartered or rental car? Would a walk, trek or hike be more enjoyable than a road journey to an over-visited tourist spot (Pura Tanah Lot comes to mind)? The beach is a fast and fun way to get around Kuta, Legian and Seminyak quickly (often faster than a taxi in traffic). Cycling is more popular than ever, and you can hire a bike for US$3 per day or less.

For organisations that have more info on the local environment and may be able to use your help in protecting it, Click here.

You can find almost every type of flower in Bali, but some are seasonal and others are restricted to the cooler mountain areas. Many of the flowers will be familiar to visitors – hibiscus, bougainvillea, poinsettia, oleander, jasmine, water lily and aster are commonly seen in the southern tourist areas, while roses, begonias and hydrangeas are found mainly in the mountains. Less-familiar flowers include: Javanese ixora (soka, angsoka), with round clusters of bright red-orange flowers; champak (cempaka), a very fragrant member of the magnolia family; flamboyant, the flower of the royal poinciana flame tree; manori (maduri), which has a number of traditional uses; and water convolvulus (kangkung), the leaves of which are commonly used as a green vegetable. There are literally thousands of species of orchid.

Flowers of Bali and Fruits of Bali, by Fred and Margaret Wiseman, are nicely illustrated books that will tell you what you’re admiring or eating.

Flowers can be seen everywhere – in gardens or just by the roadside. Flower fanciers should make a trip to the Danau Bratan area in the central mountains to see the Bali Botanical Gardens, the Botanic Garden Ubud, or visit the plant nurseries along the road between Denpasar and Sanur.

The Indonesian Ecotourism Centre (www.indecon.or.id) is devoted to highlighting responsible tourism. It lists places in Bali and Lombok that have made a commitment to the local environment and culture.

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NATIONAL PARKS

The only national park in Bali is Taman Nasional Bali Barat, Click here. It covers 19,000 hectares at the western tip of Bali, plus a substantial area of coastal mangrove and the adjacent marine area, including the excellent dive site at Menjangan.

The Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani (Gunung Rinjani National Park) on Lombok covers 41,330 hectares and is the water-collector for most of the island. At 3726m, Gunung Rinjani is the second-highest volcanic peak in Indonesia and is very popular for trekking (Click here).

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ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES

A fast-growing population in Bali has put pressure on limited resources. The tourist industry has attracted new residents, and there is a rapid growth in urban areas and of resorts and villas that encroach onto agricultural land.

Water use is a major concern. Typical top-end hotels use more than 500L of water a day per room, and the growing number of golf courses – the new one on the arid Bukit Peninsula in the Pecatu Indah development for example – suck an already stressed resource. Water pollution is another problem both from deforestation brought on by firewood-collecting in the mountains, and lack of proper treatment for the waste produced by the Balinese population. The vast mangroves along the south coast near Benoa Harbour are losing their ability to filter the water that drains here from much of the island (the Mangrove Information Centre near Sanur has more on this, Click here).

Air pollution is another problem, as anyone stuck behind a smoke-belching truck or bus on one of the main roads knows. And it’s not just all those plastic bags and water bottles but just the sheer volume of waste produced by the ever-growing population that is another problem – what to do with it?

Bali’s businesses can get their trash taken away by recyclers for under US$10 per month – it may seem like a good deal until you consider that a small Kuta warung may barely make that as profit in a week.

Just growing Bali’s sacred grain rice has become fraught with environmental concerns. (See the boxed text, for details.)

On the upside, there is a nascent effort to grow rice and other foods organically, reducing the amount of pesticide and fertiliser run-off into water supplies. Things may finally be moving forward on starting a sewage treatment program in the south (but it will take years and the money is not there) and proposals to expand the airport’s runways have inspired efforts to protect the nearby mangroves.

Bali & Lombok Outdoors

   CYCLING
   DIVING & SNORKELLING
   HIKING & TREKKING
   KAYAKING & CANOEING
   RAFTING
   RIDING HORSES
   SURFING
   WATER SPORTS

Bali offers so much more than a beach holiday with an overlay of amazing culture – it is an incredible places to get outside and play. Sure you may have to actually get up off the sand to do this, but the rewards are many.

In waters around the island you’ll find world-class diving that ranges from reefs to shipwrecks to huge, rare critters. When that water hits shore, it creates some of the world’s best surfing. No matter what time of year you visit, you’ll find legendary surf spots. Away from the waves, plenty of aquatic-fun companies offer everything from parasailing to banana-boat racing.

Supporting a new guidebook, Bali by Bike, www.balibybike.com is a website covering routes hither and yon across the island with tips for beginners and veteran riders.

On land, hikes abound through the luxuriant green of the rice fields and deep into the river valleys. In the cool mountains, trails lead past a profusion of waterfalls, lakes and lush forest. If you want to head high, you can climb any of the island’s three main active volcanoes for views, vent holes and visions of a lunar landscape.

Or, you can just whiz through the beautiful scenery on a bike. Cycling has become hugely popular in Bali and much of the island is good for riding. For riding of a different kind, beach rides on horseback are both thrilling and relaxing.

Lombok doesn’t have the same level of organisation but it has fine diving, surfing (often in remote locations), hiking, and a famous volcano trek.

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CYCLING

Cyclists are discovering Bali in a big way. The back roads of the island more than make up for the traffic-clogged streets of the south.

The main advantage of touring Bali by bike is the quality of the experience. By bicycle, you can be totally immersed in the environment – you can hear the wind rustling in the rice paddies or the sound of a gamelan (traditional Balinese orchestra) practising, and catch the scent of the flowers. Even at the height of the tourist season, cycle tourers on the back roads experience the friendliness that seems all but lost on the usual tourist circuit. Once you get away from the congested south, the roads are more relaxed and the experience sublime.

Lombok is also good for touring by bicycle. In the populated areas the roads are flat, and the traffic across the island is less dangerous than in Bali.

Some people are put off cycling by tropical heat, heavy traffic, frequent showers and high mountains. But, when you’re riding on level or downhill, the breeze really moderates the heat.

Multigear mountain bikes make it possible to get up the higher mountains in Bali or on Lombok, but with a bit of negotiating and patience you can get a bemo (minibus) to take you and your bike up the steepest sections.

Bali being Bali, many of the growing legion of long-distance cyclists are charmed to find warm and cheery welcomes, even when they stumble into a hotel lobby hot, sweaty and covered in road grime.

For details on the practicalities of riding bikes on the islands, including where to rent as well as get repairs, Click here.

Where to Ride

It’s really easier to tell you where not to ride in Bali. Denpasar, south through Sanur in the east, and Seminyak to Kuta in the west suffer from lots of traffic and narrow roads.

BUKIT PENINSULA

Past the airport, the Bukit Peninsula is less congested than Kuta and Denpasar. You can have an excellent day-ride by going counter-clockwise from Jimbaran south, past the surf breaks and temple at Ulu Watu, then across the bottom of the island on small village roads before pausing in Nusa Dua. You can explore the mangroves around Tanjung Benoa before returning north on the one bit of nasty road past the airport.

NUSA LEMBONGAN & NUSA PENIDA

The islands, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida, are nearly traffic-free and offer remote vistas of the sea, sheer cliffs, white beaches and lush jungle. You can make short work of Lembongan in a day – it’s a popular cycling destination. Penida is for the serious cyclist and you need to arrive with a bike.

Bali has an excellent bike shop in Denpasar: Planet Bike Bali (0361-746 2858; Jl Gunung Agung 148). Call for directions and hours. It stocks Giant, Trek, Shimano and other brands.

UBUD

Ubud has always been popular with cyclists and many tour companies based there lead tours. Explore the many narrow mountain roads that head upwards from Ubud for ancient monuments and the kind of jaw-dropping rice-terrace views that will have you lost in a sea of green.

EAST BALI

In the east, the coast road is busy but wide, and every small lane heading south will take you to another nearly deserted beach. North of the coast, it’s like the west, uncrowded and serene: East Bali is your oyster. You might focus on the popular and gorgeous Sidemen Road, which has the advantage of passing many cool lodges popular with trekkers and cyclists.

CENTRAL MOUNTAINS

Bali’s peaks reward ambitious riders, especially in the Danau Bratan area. Heading downhill to the north coast from Munduk is popular, as is heading south on small roads from the heights of Candikuning.

NORTH BALI

The north is wide open. A journey around the north from Amlapura takes you past isolated villages such as Tembok. A good day’s ride would take you from, say, Padangbai to the northeast, where scattered resorts see their share of long-distance riders. Elsewhere in the north, pretty much any road off the main coast road will offer serenity and discoveries. Base yourself at Lovina and you can have your pick of day trips to remote waterfalls and temples.

WEST BALI

West of Denpasar, the island is riding heaven. If you’re into hills, take the beautiful trip up to Pura Luhur Batukau and explore the rice terraces around Jatiluwih. Otherwise, just cut loose and explore. The rice fields and dense jungle drives in and around Tabanan, Kerambitan and Bajera are simply gorgeous. Further west you’ll find little traffic off the main road to Gilimanuk, but you will find rushing mountain streams, deserted beaches and hidden temples.

Bali’s first cyclist is commemorated on a stone carving at a temple in Kubutambahan – look for the lotus blossom used as a rear wheel Click here.

LOMBOK

Lombok rewards cyclists with the exhilaration of exploration.

East of Mataram there are several attractions that would make a good day trip – south to Banyumulek via Gunung Pengsong and then back to Mataram would be one such jaunt. Some of the coastal roads have hills and curves like a roller coaster – try going north from Mataram, via Senggigi, to Pemenang, and then (if you feel energetic) return via the steep climb over the Pusuk Pass.

The Gilis are good for riding as well, even if you have to do laps to build up any mileage.

Cycling Tours

Popular tours start high up in the central mountains at places such as Kintamani or Bedugal. The tour company takes you to the top and then you ride down relatively quiet mountain roads soaking up the lush scenery, village culture and tropical scents. Rides in and around Ubud are also common. The costs with bicycle, gear and lunch is US$25 to US$40.

Some operators include transport to/from South Bali hotels as part of the price.

• Archipelago Adventure (0361-844 4624; www.archipelago-adventure.com) Offers a range of tours, including ones on Java. In Bali, there are rides around Jatiluwih, Danau Buyan and mountain biking on trails from Kintamani.
• Bali Bintang (0361-746 2290; [email protected]) Two hours of downhill riding north of Ubud at Pejang. A one-hour trek through rice fields follows.
• Bali Eco & Educational Cycling Tours (0361-975557, 0813 3742 0420) Tours start at Kintamani and take small roads through lush scenery south to Ubud.
• Bali Fun & Action (0361-790 0741; [email protected]) The choice for people who like descriptive names; this Ubud-based operator starts in Kintamani, passes some of the ancient sites north of Ubud and ends with a village tour and an optional rice-field trek.
• Bike-Baik Bali Countryside Tours (0361-978052, 0813 3867 3852; www.balibike.com) Tours run downhill from Kintamani; the emphasis is on cultural immersion and there are frequent stops in tiny villages and rice farms.

Sportdiver magazine on Bali’s best dive site at Pulau Menjangan: ‘Nothing prepares me for just how vibrant the coral is down the length of the sheer walls here. Dozens of species of hard and soft corals overrun each other in a glorious abundance of shades and textures that continually bewitch the eye.’

On Lombok, you can find tours out of Senggigi.

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DIVING & SNORKELLING

With its warm water, extensive coral reefs and abundant marine life, Bali offers excellent diving and snorkelling possibilities. Reliable dive schools and operators all around Bali’s coast can train complete beginners or arrange challenging trips that will satisfy the most experienced divers. The best sites can all be accessed in a day trip from the south of Bali, although the more distant ones will involve several hours of travelling time. Lombok is close behind Bali for diving. It has good sites, especially around its northwest coast.

Snorkelling gear is available near all the most accessible spots, but if you’re keen, it’s definitely worthwhile bringing your own, and checking out some of the less-visited parts of the coasts.

Dive Costs

For a local trip, count on US$45 to US$90 per person for two dives, which includes all equipment. Many operators offer open-water diving certification for US$350 to US$400. Note that it is becoming common to price in euros.

Dive Courses

If you’re not a qualified diver, and you want to try some scuba diving in Bali, you have three options.

Huge sunfish, up to 2.5m in length and twice as high, are a much-treasured sight for divers. They can usually be found around Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Penida and at times off Tulamben. These gentle giants feed on jellyfish and plankton.

First, nearly all operators offer an ‘introductory’, ‘orientation’ or ‘initial’ dive for beginners, usually after classroom training and shallow-water practice. Courses are reasonably cheap (from around US$60 for one dive), but it is essential to stick to one of the recommended dive operators (Click here) for safety’s sake.

Second, some of the larger hotels and diving agencies offer four- or five-day courses that certify you for basic dives in the location where you do the course. A resort course will give you a better standard of training than just an introductory dive, but it doesn’t make you a qualified diver. These courses cost about US$300.

SINK OR SWIM: DIVING SAFELY

Diving is justifiably popular in Bali and on Lombok. But like all diving destinations, it is important to stay safe in and out of the water. Here are some tips to make your trip the best possible.

Choosing a Dive Operator

In general, diving in Bali and on Lombok is safe, with a good standard of staff training and equipment maintenance. However, as with anywhere in the world, some operations are more professional than others, and it is often difficult, especially for inexperienced or beginner divers, to select the best operation for their needs. Here are a few tips to help you select a well-set-up and safety-conscious dive shop.

• Are its staff fully trained and qualified? Ask to see certificates or certification cards – no reputable shop will be offended by this request. Guides must reach ‘full instructor’ level (the minimum certification level) to be able to teach any diving course. To guide certified divers on a reef dive, guides must hold at least ‘rescue diver’ or preferably ‘dive master’ qualifications. Note that a dive master cannot teach – only fully qualified instructors can do that.
• Do they have safety equipment on the boat? At a minimum, a dive boat should carry oxygen and a first-aid kit. A radio or mobile phone is also important.
• Is the boat’s equipment OK and its air clean? This is often the hardest thing for a new diver to judge. A few guidelines are:

1. Smell the air – open a tank valve a small way and breathe in. Smelling dry or slightly rubbery air is OK. If it smells of oil or car exhaust, that tells you the operator doesn’t filter the air correctly.

2. When the equipment is put together, are there any big air leaks? All dive centres get some small leaks at some time, however, if you get a big hiss of air coming out of any piece of equipment, ask to have it replaced.

• Is it conservation-oriented? Most good dive shops explain that you should not touch corals or take shells from the reef. It’s also common for the better places to work with local fishermen to ensure that certain areas are protected. Some even clean beaches!

Safety Guidelines for Diving

Before embarking on a scuba diving or snorkelling trip, carefully consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:

• Possess a current diving certification card from a recognised scuba diving instructional agency (if scuba diving).
• Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable diving.
• Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions at the dive site (eg from a reputable local dive operation). Conditions vary greatly between dive sites around Bali and the islands. Seasonal changes can significantly alter any site and dive conditions.
• Be aware of local customs and etiquette about marine life and the environment.
• Dive only at sites within your realm of experience; if available, engage the services of a competent, professionally trained dive instructor or dive master.

Finally, if you’re serious about diving, the best option is to enrol in a full open-water diving course, which gives you an internationally recognised qualification. A four-day open-water course, to PADI standards, with a qualified instructor, manual, dive table and certification, will cost about US$300 to US$400. Experienced divers can also upgrade their skills with advanced open-water courses in night, wreck and deep diving etc, from around US$200 for a three-day course.

RESPONSIBLE DIVING

Please bear in mind the following tips when diving and help preserve the ecology and beauty of reefs:

• Never use anchors on the reef, and take care not to run boats aground on coral.
• Avoid touching or standing on living marine organisms or dragging equipment across the reef.
• Be conscious of the effect from your fins. Even without contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef can damage delicate organisms. Also, take care not to kick up clouds of sand, which can smother organisms.
• Practise and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by divers descending too fast and colliding with the reef.
• Do not collect or buy corals or shells or loot marine archaeological sites (mainly shipwrecks).
• Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and any other litter you may find as well. Plastics in particular are a serious threat to marine life.
• Do not feed the fish.
• Minimise your involvement with marine animals. Do not ever ride on the backs of turtles and learn as much as you can about the animals’ natural habitat.

Dive Operators

Major dive operators in tourist areas can arrange trips to the main dive sites all around the island. Distances can be long though, so it’s better to stay relatively close to your destination.

For tips on choosing a dive shop, see the boxed text,. Places with good dive shops in Bali include Sanur, Padangbai, Candidasa, Amed, Lovina, Pemuteran and Nusa Lembongan.

On Lombok, look for dive operators in Senggigi, Gili Air, Gili Meno and Gili Trawanagan. Kuta has dive shops that specialise in sites with hammerhead sharks.

Diving & Snorkelling Sites

BALI

Bali’s main diving and snorkelling sites include the places we’ve listed above with good dive centres. For details, see those sections of the book. In addition, Nusa Penida and Pulau Menjangan in Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park) are renowned for their diving.

The Sanur-based environmental group PPLH Bali (Click here) has several programs devoted to protecting Bali’s reefs and educating people about their value.

LOMBOK

There is some very good scuba diving and snorkelling off the Gili Islands (see the boxed text,), especially Gili Trawangan, though some of the coral has been damaged by dynamite fishing. There are also some good reefs near Senggigi.

Equipment

All the equipment you need is available in Bali and on Lombok, but you may not be able to get exactly what you want in the size you need. The quality is variable – some operators use equipment right to the end of its service life. Most dive operators in Bali include the cost of equipment in the cost of the dive, but if you have your own equipment (excluding mask, snorkel and fins), you’ll receive a discounted rate. Tanks and weight belt – as well as lunch, drinking water, transport, guides and insurance – are generally included in dive trips.

The most essential basic equipment to bring is a mask, snorkel and fins –they’re not too difficult to carry and that way you know they’ll fit. Anywhere with coral and tourists, you’ll be able to rent snorkelling gear for around 30,000Rp per day – make sure that you check the condition of the equipment carefully before you take it away.

Also worth bringing, if you plan to do a lot of diving, is a thin, full-length wetsuit, which is important for protection against stinging animals and possible coral abrasions. A thicker one (3mm) would be preferable if you plan frequent diving, deep dives or a night dive – the water can be cold, especially deeper down.

Some small, easy-to-carry things to bring from home include protective gloves, spare straps, silicone lubricant and extra globes for your torch (flashlight). Most dive operators can rent good-quality regulators (about US$10 per day) and BCVs (aka BCDs or Buoyancy Control Devices; about US$5), but if you bring your own, you’ll save money. It’s a good idea especially if you’re planning to dive in more remote and secluded locations than Bali, where the rental equipment may not be as good.

That dog barking at you as you walk just needs a little love! Click here for details on two groups that are working to brighten the future for Bali’s pooches.

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HIKING & TREKKING

You could wander Bali and Lombok for a year and still not see all the islands have to offer. But their small size means that you can nibble off a bit at a time – day-hikes and treks are easily arranged. Guides can help you surmount volcanoes, while tour companies will take you to remote regions and emerald-green valleys of rice terraces and flowing water.

Bali

Bali is a pretty darn walkable place. No matter where you’re staying, you can ask for recommendations and set off for discoveries and adventure. Even from Kuta or Seminyak, you just head out to the beach, turn right and walk north as far as you wish along the amazing surf while civilisation seems to evaporate.

Bali does not offer remote ‘wilderness treks’ as it’s simply too densely populated. For the most part, you’ll make day trips from the closest village, often leaving before dawn to avoid the clouds and mist that usually blanket the peaks by mid-morning – for most treks you’ll go on you won’t need camping gear.

Treks up the sides of the iconic volcanoes are a memorable adventure and there’s a good coterie of guides ready to show you the way. Hassles aside, the otherworldly scenery of Gunung Batur is like none other. Gunung Batukau offers misty climbs amid the clouds with few crowds, while Gunung Agung is renowned for its sunrises and isolated temples.

There are numerous primitive treks – you’ll need a guide – within Taman Nasional Bali Barat, the remote national park in the far west.

Hiking is a good way to explore the wilds of Bali – you can trek from village to village on small tracks and between the rice paddies. Munduk is a very popular place to hike, thanks to its lack of hassles and lush, waterfall-riven landscape.

The Balinese have made walking an art. Here’s what Miguel Covarrubias said in the classic 1937 Island of Bali: ‘From childhood the women walk for miles carrying heavy loads on their heads.’

You can easily go on short hikes, without guides, around Danau Buyan and Danau Tamblingan, Tirta Gangga and the Sidemen Road area Click here.

Ubud has long been a centre for explorations on foot Click here, from relaxed hour-long rice-field wanders to all-day escapades covering river-valley jungles and ancient monuments.

Several agencies offer organised walking and trekking trips around Bali. In addition, some small operations organise walks around Ubud.

SAFETY GUIDELINES FOR TREKKING

Before embarking on a trekking trip, consider the following points to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience:

• Pay any fees and possess any permits required by local authorities; often, these will be rolled into the guide’s fee, meaning that it’s all negotiable.
• Be sure you are healthy and feel comfortable walking for a sustained period.
• Obtain reliable information about physical and environmental conditions along your intended route, eg the weather can get quite wet and cold in the upper reaches of the volcanoes.
• Confirm with your guide that you will only go on walks/treks within your realm of experience.
• Carry the proper equipment. Depending on the trek and time of year this can mean rain gear or extra water. Carry a torch (flashlight); don’t assume the guide will have one.

Recommended agencies include:

• Bali Culture Tours (0813 3827 2777; [email protected]) Offers highly customisable programs around Ubud and East Bali, including the slopes of Gunung Agung and artists’ homes.
• Bali Nature Walk (0817 973 5914; [email protected]) Walks in isolated areas in the Ubud region. Routes are customisable depending on your desires.
• Bali Sunrise Trekking and Tours (0818 552 669; www.balisunrisetours.com) Leads treks throughout the central mountains.

Lombok

On Lombok, the Gunung Rinjani area Click here is superb for trekking. People climb the 3726m summit to then drop down into a crater where there’s a sacred lake and hot springs. The entire mountain is a national park.

You can organise explorations of Gunung Rinjani at the Rinjani Trek Centre in Senaru or Senggigi. Another good place is the Rinjani Information Centre in Sembalun Lawang. You can find outfitters in Senaru. Note that expert advice is crucial on Gunung Rinjani as people die on its slopes every year.

Lombok’s trekking favourite, Gunung Rinjani, is an active volcano and the second-largest in Indonesia. It rises to 3726m (12,224ft) and erupted as recently as 2004.

The slopes of Rinjani are also good for hiking. There are good trails through the garlic-scented Sembalun Valley and the fertile agricultural lands of Tetebatu.

If scaling a volcano isn’t your style, there are waterfalls such as Air Terjun Sindang Gila near Senaru. Perhaps the ultimate in beach-bum adventure can be had circumnavigating any of the Gilis. Maybe you’ll find a message in a bottle.

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KAYAKING & CANOEING

You can canoe across the reflections of volcanoes on Danau Batur. Otherwise, the water-sports centres in Sanur (Click here) and Tanjung Benoa are catching on to kayaking. The boats may not be pristine, but they take to the placid, reef-protected waters just fine.

Sobek and Bali Adventure Tours (below) offer white-water kayaking along with their rafting trips.

On Gili Trawangan, you can rent kayaks from Karma Kayak and circumnavigate the amazingly teal-shaded waters and dazzling white beaches.

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RAFTING

Rafting is very popular, usually as a day trip from either South Bali or Ubud. Operators pick you up from your hotel, take you to the put-in point, provide all the equipment and guides, and return you to your hotel at the end of the day. The best time is during the wet season (October to March), or just after; by the middle of the dry season (April to September), the best river rapids may be better called ‘dribbles’.

Some operators use the Sungai Ayung (Ayung River; Click here), near Ubud, where there are between 19 and 25 Class II to III rapids (ie potentially exciting but not perilous). As you float along, you can admire the stunning gorges and rice paddies from the boat. The Sungai Telagawaja (Telagawaja River) near Muncan in East Bali is also popular. It’s more rugged than the Ayung and the scenery is more wild.

Dress to get wet and bring something dry for afterwards. Companies will pick you up at your hotel in South Bali and Ubud.

Advertised prices run from US$50 to US$90; discounts are common.

Consider the following:

• Bahama Adventure (0361-270811; [email protected]) Sungai Ayung.
• Bali Adventure Tours (0361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) Sungai Ayung; some of the company’s profits go to environmental projects.
• Bali View Rafting (0361-281443) Sungai Telagawaja.
• Sobek (0361-287059; www.balisobek.com) Trips on both the Sungai Ayung and Sungai Telagawaja.

Not quite a thoroughbred, Bali has its own indigenous breed of pony, the – surprise! –Bali pony. You’ll find it in stables, pulling carts and otherwise working for its living as the breed has done on the island for at least a thousand years.

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RIDING HORSES

You see them trotting along the beach in Seminyak and further north, happy people astride trusty steeds. Riding a horse along the sand and through the waves is thrilling and certainly a green way to have some fun.

You can ride horses in Bali from stables in Kerobokan, just up the coast at Yeh Gangga and in the north at Pemuteran.

A variety of rides are on offer depending on your experience and desires. Away from the shore, rides through rice fields and lush river valleys are popular.

On Lombok you can saddle up on Gili Trawangan.

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SURFING

In recent years, the number of surfers in Bali has increased enormously, and good breaks can get very crowded. Many Balinese have taken to surfing, and the grace of traditional dancing is said to influence their style. The surfing competitions in Bali are a major local event. Facilities for surfers have improved, and surf shops in Kuta will sell just about everything you need.

Equipment

A small board is usually adequate for the smaller breaks, but a few extra inches on your usual board length won’t go astray. For the bigger waves – 8ft and upwards – you’ll need a gun. For a surfer of average height and build, a board around the 7ft mark is perfect.

Bungy jump at 3am and then hit one of Bali’s hottest clubs, Double Six, which is right below. (Just don’t literally hit it.) Click here. Go nuts and take the plunge with a dirt bike.

If you try to bring more than two or three boards into the country, you may have problem with customs officials.

There are surf shops in Kuta and elsewhere in South Bali. You can rent boards of varying quality and get supplies at most popular surf breaks. If you need repairs, ask around, there are lots of places.

Other recommended equipment:

• Solid luggage for rugged airline travel
• Board-strap for carrying
• Tough shoes for walking down rocky cliffs
• Your favourite wax if you’re picky
• Wetsuit or reef booties
• Wetsuit vest or other protective cover from the sun, cloudy days, reefs and rocks
• Surfing helmet for rugged conditions (and riding a rented motorbike)

Where to Surf

BALI

Swells come from the Indian Ocean, so the surf is on the southern side of the island and, strangely, on the northwest coast of Nusa Lembongan, where the swell funnels into the strait between there and the Bali coast.

In the dry season (around April to September), the west coast has the best breaks, with the trade winds coming in from the southeast; this is also when Nusa Lembongan works best. In the wet season, surf the eastern side of the island, from Nusa Dua around to Padangbai. If there’s a north wind – or no wind at all – there are also a couple of breaks on the south coast of the Bukit Peninsula.

Bali-based Surf Travel Online (0361-750550; www.surftravelonline.com) has information on surf camps, boat charters and package deals for surf trips to remote Indonesian locations, as well as Nusa Lembongan.

Balangan

Go through the growing Pecatu Indah resort and follow the road around to the right past Dreamland to reach the Balangan warung (food stall). Balangan is a fast left over a shallow reef, unsurfable at low tide, good at mid-tide with anything over a 4ft swell; with an 8ft swell, this can be one of the classic waves.

Balian

There are a few peaks near the mouth of Sungai Balian (Balian River, Click here) in western Bali. The best break here is an enjoyable and consistent left-hander that works well at mid- to high tide if there’s no wind. Lots of inns are springing up here.

www.indosurf.com.auhas web links and surfing info; it is also the home site of Indo Surf, a best-selling guidebook to breaks across the archipelago.

Bingin

North of Padang and accessible by road, this spot Click here can now get crowded. It’s best at mid-tide with a 6ft swell, when it manufactures short but perfect left-hand barrels. The cliffs backing the beach are lined with funky accommodation.

Canggu

North of Seminyak, on the northern extremity of the bay, Canggu has a nice white beach and many surfers. An optimum size for Canggu is 5ft to 6ft. There’s a good right-hander that you can really hook into, which works at high tide.

Dreamland

You have to go through Pecatu Indah resort and past the water-sucking golf course to reach this spot Click here, which can also get crowded. At a low 5ft swell, this solid peak offers a short, sharp right and a longer, more tubular left.

Impossibles

Just north of Padang Padang, this outside reef break Click here has three shifting peaks with fast left-hand tube sections that can join up if the conditions are perfect.

www.wannasurf.com has surf reports and a message board not just from Bali but the entire world. The World Surf Atlas feature is the thing dreams are made from.

Ketewel & Lebih

These two beaches Click here are northeast of Sanur. They’re both right-hand beach breaks, and are dodgy at low tide and close out over 6ft.

Kuta Area

For your first plunge into the warm Indian Ocean, try the beach breaks at the beach at Kuta ; on full tide, go out near the life-saving club at the southern end of the beach road. At low tide, try the tubes around Halfway Kuta, probably the best place in Bali for beginners to practise. Start at the beach breaks if you are a bit rusty, but treat even these breaks with respect.

Further north, the breaks at Legian Beach can be pretty powerful, with lefts and rights on the sandbars off Jl Melasti and Jl Padma. For a local perspective, see ‘Legian’s Surfing Legend’, Click here.

For more serious stuff, go to the reefs south of the beach breaks, about a kilometre out to sea. Kuta Reef, a vast stretch of coral, provides a variety of waves. You can paddle out in around 20 minutes, but the easiest way is by boat, for a fee. The main break is a classic left-hander, best at mid- to high tide, with a 5ft to 6ft swell, when it peels across the reef and has a beautiful inside tube section.

As elsewhere, when in doubt here, ask locals.

Medewi

Further along the south coast of western Bali is a softer left called Medewi – it’s a point break that can give a long ride right into the river mouth. This wave has a big drop, which fills up, then runs into a workable inside section. There’s accommodation nearby.

www.surftravel.com.auis an Australian tour company with camps, yacht charters and a website with destination information, surfer reviews and more. It has trips to more unusual parts of Indonesia.

Nusa Dua

During the wet season, you should surf on the east side of the island, where there are some very fine reef breaks. The reef off Nusa Dua has very consistent swells. The main break is 1km off the beach to the south of Nusa Dua – go past the golf course and look for the whole row of warung and some boats to take you out. There are lefts and rights that work well on a small swell at low to mid-tide. Further north, in front of the Club Med, there is a fast, barrelling right reef break called Sri Lanka, which works best at mid-tide.

Nusa Lembongan

In the Nusa Penida group, this island Click here is separated from the southeast coast of Bali by the Selat Badung (Badung Strait).

The strait is very deep and generates huge swells that break over the reefs off the northwest coast of Lembongan. Shipwreck, clearly visible from the beach, is the most popular break, a longish right that gets a good barrel at mid-tide with a 5ft swell.

A bit to the south, Lacerations is a very fast, hollow right breaking over a very shallow reef – hence the name. Still further south is a smaller, more user-friendly left-hander called Playground. Remember that Lembongan is best with an easterly wind, so it’s dry-season surfing.

Surfing Indonesia, by Leonard and Lorca Lueras, has about 80 pages on Bali. It has great photos, a comprehensive coverage of the waves, and some good surfing background.

Padang Padang

Just Padang for short, this super-shallow, left-hand reef break is just north of Ulu Watu towards Kuta. Again, check this place carefully before venturing out. It’s a very demanding break that only works over about 6ft from mid- to high tide – it’s a great place to watch from the clifftop.

If you can’t surf tubes, backhand or forehand, don’t go out: Padang is a tube. After a ledgey take-off, you power along the bottom before pulling up into the barrel. Not a wave for the faint-hearted and definitely not a wave to surf when there’s a crowd.

Sanur

Sanur Reef has a hollow wave with excellent barrels. It’s fickle, and doesn’t even start until you get a 6ft swell, but anything over 8ft will be world-class, and anything over 10ft will be brown board-shorts material. There are other reefs further offshore and most of them are surfable.

Hyatt Reef, over 2km from shore, has a shifty right peak that can give a great ride at full tide. Closer in, opposite the Sanur Beach Market, Tanjung Sari gives long left rides at low tide with a big swell, while Tanjung Right can be a very speedy wall on a big swell. The classic right is off the Grand Bali Beach Hotel.

Serangan

The destructive development at Pulau Serangan (Turtle Island) has caused huge disruption at the southern and eastern sides of the island, and this has made the surf here much more consistent. The causeway has made the island much more accessible, and several warung face the water, where waves break right and left in anything over a 3ft swell Click here.

www.surfaidinternational.org is a very well-regarded international surfer-run aid organisation that has done impressive work for the tsunami-ravaged islands off Sumatra.

South Coast

The extreme south coast Click here, around the end of Bukit Peninsula, can be surfed any time of the year provided there is a northerly wind, or no wind at all – get there very early to avoid onshore winds. The peninsula is fringed with reefs and big swells are produced, but access is a problem. There are a few roads, but the shoreline is all cliff. If you want to explore it, charter a boat on a day with no wind and a small swell.

Ulu Watu

When Kuta Reef is 5ft to 6ft, Ulu Watu, the most famous surfing break in Bali, will be 6ft to 8ft with bigger sets. Kuta and Legian sit on a huge bay – Ulu Watu is way out on the southern extremity of the bay, and consequently picks up more swell than Kuta.

Teluk Ulu Watu (Ulu Watu Bay) is a great set-up for surfers – local boys will wax your board, get drinks for you and carry the board down into the cave, which is the usual access to the waves. There are warung and there’s accommodation for every budget.

Ulu Watu has about seven different breaks. The Corner is straight in front of you to the right. It’s a fast-breaking, hollow left that holds about 6ft. The reef shelf under this break is extremely shallow, so try to avoid falling headfirst. At high tide, the Peak starts to work. This is good from 5ft to 8ft, with bigger waves occasionally right on the Peak itself. You can take off from this inside part or further down the line. It’s a great wave.

Look for the free news-paper Magic Wave –distributed around Kuta, it has full coverage of the Bali surfing scene.

Another left runs off the cliff that forms the southern flank of the bay. It breaks outside this in bigger swells, and once it’s 7ft, a left-hander pitches right out in front of a temple on the southern extremity. Out behind the Peak, when it’s big, is a bombora (submerged reef) appropriately called the Bommie. This is another big left-hander and it doesn’t start operating until the swell is about 10ft. On a normal 5ft to 8ft day, there are also breaks south of the Peak.

Observe where other surfers paddle out and follow them. If you are in doubt, ask someone. It is better having some knowledge than none at all. Climb down into the cave and paddle out from there. When the swell is bigger you will be swept to your right. Don’t panic – it is an easy matter to paddle around the white water from down along the cliff. Coming back in you have to aim for the cave. When the swell is bigger, come from the southern side of the cave as the current runs to the north.

Indo Surf & Lingo (www.indosurf.com.au), by Peter Neely, tells surfers where and when to find good waves around Bali and other Indonesian islands. The book also has a language guide with Indonesian translations of useful words. It’s available at surf shops in the Kuta region.

LOMBOK

Lombok has some good surfing and the dearth of tourists means that breaks are uncrowded.

Desert Point

Located in an extremely remote part of Lombok, Desert Point is a legendary if elusive wave that was voted the ‘best wave in the world’ by Tracks magazine. Only suitable for very experienced surfers, on its day this left-handed tube can offer a 300m ride, growing in size from take-off to close-out (which is over razor-sharp coral). Desert Point only really performs when there’s a serious ground swell and can be flat for days and days – May to September offers the best chance of the right conditions. The nearest accommodation is about 12km away in Pelangan, down a rough dirt track, so many surfers either camp next to the shoreline, or cruise in on surf safaris from Bali.

Gili Trawangan

Much better known as a diving mecca, Trawangan also boasts a little-known surf spot off the island’s southwestern tip, offshore from the Vila Ombak hotel. It’s a quick right-hander that breaks in two sections, one offering a steeper profile, and breaks over rounded coral. It can be surfed all year long but is best at high tide.

If you’ve already worked your way around Bali and Lombok and are ready for far-flung adventure, www.surftravelonline.com has information on remote Indonesian locations.

Mawi

About 18km west of Kuta (Lombok), the stunning bay of Mawi has a fine barrelling left with a late take-off and a final tube. It’s best in the dry season from May to October with easterly offshore winds and a southwest swell. As there are sharp rocks and coral underwater, and the riptide is very fierce, take great care. Unfortunately, thefts have been reported from the beach, so leave nothing of any value behind and tip the locals to look after your vehicle.

ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS

There’s lots of outdoors adventure for kids in Bali. Of the activities in this chapter, some hikes and walks are short and well within short attention spans. The promise of rice fields filled with ducks, frogs and other fun critters only adds to the appeal. Older children can find adventures snorkelling, riding horses and rafting.

The water-sports centres have activities geared to kids and for those that are ready to surf, with most surf schools offering programs aimed at youngsters.

There are also family-friendly attractions that have little to do with Bali or its culture but which are simply fun. Colourful kites are sold in shops and market stalls; get some string at a supermarket. Water play is also always fun – you can often use hotel pools, even if you’re not staying there; with a mask and snorkel, there is a lot of fun to be had on the beaches, too. Waterbom Park in Tuban is usually a big hit with most kids.

Other activities popular with kids include visiting Bali Bird Park and Rimba Reptil Park near Ubud, and river rafting Click here.

The long-running Elephant Safari Park north of Ubud charms anyone with a penchant for pachyderms while the new Bali Safari and Marine Park is a veritable open-air festival of wildlife.

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WATER SPORTS

The east coast of South Bali is popular for water sports. The close-in reefs off Sanur and Tanjung Benoa (Benoa Headland) mean that the water is usually calm enough for a lot of aquatic fun. Parasailing, jet-skiing, waterskiing and banana-boat rides are just some of the choices. In Sanur (Click here) there are activity huts along the beach. In Tanjung Benoa, several large water-sports centres are located on the beach. Most fetch and return patrons from all over the south. Costs for the various mechanised marvels can quickly add up to US$20 an hour or more. Just swimming off the beach is free.

For watery adventures with an island voyage, try one of the party boats making daily excursions to Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida ). There, you have a full range of water sports based aboard a barge that often looks like something from the Kevin Costner dud Waterworld. It’s all organised frolic and the most basic activities like snorkelling the interesting reefs are included in the package cost (per person US$60 to US$90). Note that with pick-up and drop-off at your South Bali hotel, plus the boat ride to/from the barge, it can be a very long day.

Kuta, Legian

KUTA & LEGIAN
   HISTORY
   ORIENTATION
   INFORMATION
   DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
   SIGHTS
   ACTIVITIES
   TOURS
   FESTIVALS & EVENTS
   SLEEPING
   EATING
   ENTERTAINMENT
   SHOPPING
   GETTING THERE & AWAY
   GETTING AROUND
SEMINYAK
   ORIENTATION
   INFORMATION
   SIGHTS
   ACTIVITIES
   SLEEPING
   EATING
   ENTERTAINMENT
   SHOPPING
   GETTING THERE & AROUND
NORTH OF SEMINYAK
   KEROBOKAN
   BEREWA
   CANGGU
   ECHO BEACH
   PERERENAN BEACH

The more things change… Kuta has always been a rebel. For centuries, it was where the Balinese nobility sent their black sheep. The farming and fishing were marginal, so people had to get by on their wiles. The community – such as it was – stretched from today’s Kuta and Tuban north through Legian and Seminyak. It was the first part of Bali to make a profit from foreigners and the lesson stuck.

While little of the pastoral coconut-palm-shaded land remains, what does remain is the beach: it’s the unifier of the communities and the great engine that drives life from Kuta to Seminyak. This seemingly endless, curving swath of golden sand is where tourism began in Bali in the 1930s and where it continues to thrive today. Washed by perfectly surfable waves that arrive with the regularity of streetcars, the beach is the ribbon of pleasure that easily makes one forget the area’s ever-more-breathless lucre. From a surfer extending her stay for yet another week in a US$10 Kuta room, to a lounger summoning yet more pleasure from his beachside repose at a Seminyak resort, the beach is ever democratic in its joys.

Renowned shopping, all-night clubs, fabulous restaurants, cheap beer and relentless hustle and bustle are all part of the experience. But just when you wonder what any of this has to do with Bali – the island supposedly all about spirituality and serenity – a religious procession appears and shuts everything down. And then you know the answer.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Losing your day on Kuta Beach Click here
• Losing your night in Seminyak Click here
• Losing your resolve shopping in Seminyak Click here
• Losing your tension at a spa in Legian Click here or Seminyak Click here
• Losing the crowds at Echo Beach Click here, north of Seminyak

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KUTA & LEGIAN

0361

Only 20 years ago, Kuta hotels still tacked their signs up to palm trees. Today, amidst the wall-to-wall commercialism in Kuta and its symbiotic neighbour to the north, Legian, such an image seems as foreign as the thought that the area was once rice fields. Loud, frenetic and brash are just some of the descriptions commonly used for the centre of mass tourism in Bali.

Hate ‘em or love ‘em, Kuta and Legian (and to a lesser extent their snoozy southern neighbour Tuban) inspire strong opinions. Kuta has narrow lanes, jammed with cheap cafés, surf shops and myriad traveller services. Its main streets have Bali’s most raucous clubs, and you can still find a decent, albeit simple, room for US$10 in its dozens of hotels. Legian appeals to a slightly older crowd (wags say it’s where fans of Kuta go after they’re married). It has a long row of family-friendly hotels close to the waves.

And those waves! They break on the beach that put Kuta on the map. The strand of sand stretching for kilometres from Tuban north to Kuta, Legian and beyond to Seminyak is always a scene of surfing, playing, massaging, chilling, imbibing and more. You’re never more than 10 minutes away from the sand here.

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HISTORY

Mads Lange, a Danish copra trader and 19th-century adventurer, set up a successful trading enterprise near modern-day Kuta in 1839. He mediated profitably between local rajahs (lords or princes) and the Dutch, who were encroaching from the north. His business soured in the 1850s and he died suddenly, just as he was about to return to Denmark. It’s thought that his death may have been the result of poisoning by locals jealous of his wealth. His restored tomb (Map; Jl Tuan Langa) is on his homesite in a quiet, tree-shaded area by the river.

Much to the annoyance of the Dutch Resident, Bob and Louise Koke’s Kuta Beach Hotel thrived in the 1930s. The guests, mostly from Europe and the US, were housed in thatched bungalows built in an idealised Balinese style (the Resident called them ‘filthy native huts’). After WWII, Westerners and Balinese continued the trend, building their own hotels along the beach, although most visitors at that point were still wealthy travellers who arrived from abroad on ocean liners.

Kuta really began to change in the late 1960s when it became a stop on the hippie trail between Australia and Europe. At first, most visitors stayed in Denpasar and made day trips to Kuta. But as more accommodation opened, by the early 1970s Kuta had relaxed losmen (basic accommodation) in pretty gardens, friendly places to eat and a delightfully laid-back atmosphere. Surfers also arrived, enjoying the waves at Kuta and using it as a base to explore the rest of Bali’s coastline. Enterprising Indonesians seized the opportunity to profit from the tourist trade, often in partnership with foreigners seeking a pretext to stay longer.

Legian, the village to the north, sprang up as an alternative to Kuta in the mid-1970s. At first it was a totally separate development, but these days you can’t tell where one ends and the other begins.

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ORIENTATION

The Kuta region is disorienting. It’s flat, with few landmarks or signs, and streets and alleys that are crooked and often walled on one or both sides so it feels like a maze. Traffic is terrible and walking is often the quickest way to get around, although scooters speeding down narrow gang (alleys) can cause problems.

Busy Jl Legian runs roughly parallel to the beach from Kuta north into Seminyak. At the southern end is Bemo Corner, a small roundabout at the junction with Jl Pantai Kuta (Kuta Beach Rd). This one-way street runs west from Bemo Corner and then north along the beach to Jl Melasti. Together, these are the main roads, although traffic and numerous one-way traffic restrictions will still have you needing a cold one.

Between Jl Legian and the beach there is a tangle of narrow streets, tracks and alleys, with a hodgepodge of hotels, souvenir stalls, cafés, construction sites and cars trying to drive where they shouldn’t.

GONE TO THE DOGS

Mads Lange was known for the kennel of Dalmatians he imported to Bali from Europe. To this day, there are locals in Kuta who believe that any mutt with a trace of black and white spots carries Lange’s spirit and is forever searching for those who poisoned him.

North of Jl Melasti, Kuta merges into Legian, which is mostly distinguished by slightly wider roads. Somewhere south of Bemo Corner along Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta merges with Tuban, which has beach resorts, a huge beachside mall and a fair amount of low-key life.

See the boxed text,, for information on the changing street names in the region.

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INFORMATION

Bookshops

Small used-book stalls and book exchanges can be found scattered along the gang and roads, especially the Poppies.

• Kerta Bookshop (Map; 758047; Jl Pantai Kuta 6B) A book exchange with a better-than-average selection of books. Many break the Patterson–Brown–Cornwall schlock mould.
• Periplus Bookshop Discovery Shopping Mall (Map; 769757; Jl Kartika Plaza, Tuban); Bali Galleria shopping centre (Map; 752670; Ngurah Rai Bypass) Has the largest selection of new books in Bali.

Emergency

• Police station (Map; 751598; Jl Raya Kuta; 24hr) Next to the Tourist Information Centre.
• Tourist police post (Map; 7845988; Jl Pantai Kuta; 24hr) This is a branch of the main police station in Denpasar. Right across from the beach, the officers have a gig that is sort of like a Balinese Baywatch.

Internet Access

There are scores of places to connect to the internet. Most have poky connections and charge about 300Rp a minute. The following places have fast broadband connections and offer numerous services, including wi-fi, CD burning, digital camera downloads and more. Connection rates average 600Rp per minute.

• Bali@Cyber Café (Map; 761326; www.balicyber.net; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals 20,000-30,000Rp; 8am-11pm) Has a full range of computer options, parking and a good menu of snacks, meals and tasty smoothies. Many expats use it as their office.
• Internet Outpost (Map; 763392; Poppies Gang II; 8am-2am) Has desks, couches and cold drinks.
• VIP Bali Internet (Map0813 3719 6105; Poppies Gang I; 8.30am-midnight) Decent speed, plus wi-fi, scanning, Skype etc.

Laundry

Most hotels, even the top-end ones, offer guests a laundry service for a comparatively low price. Backstreet laundries are only marginally cheaper – about 1500Rp for jeans, 1000Rp for a shirt or shorts, 500Rp for underwear –and you have less recourse if something goes awry.

Medical Services

Click here for medical clinics serving all of Bali.

• Guardian Melasti (Map; 765217; Jl Melasti; 8am-10pm) Modern chain pharmacy; a good stop if you need prescription drugs.
• Kimia Farma (Map; 757483; Jl Raya Kuta 15; 24hr) Part of a local chain of pharmacies, it’s well stocked and carries hard-to-find items like that antidote for irksome cocks in the morning: earplugs.
• Legian Medical Clinic (Map; 758503; Jl Benesari; on call 24hr) Has an ambulance and dental service. It’s 400,000Rp for a consultation with an English-speaking Balinese doctor, or 800,000Rp for an emergency visit to your hotel room. It has a well-stocked pharmacy attached to the clinic.

Money

There are banks along Jl Legian and at Kuta Sq. In addition, ATMs abound and can be found everywhere, including in the ubiquitous Circle K and Mini Mart convenience stores.

The numerous ‘authorised’ moneychangers are faster and efficient, open long hours and may offer better exchange rates. Be cautious, though, especially where the rates are markedly better than average. Extra fees may apply or, judging by the number of readers’ letters we continue to receive, they may be adeptly short-changing their customers.

Exchange counters run by international banks are a new phenomenon and should offer reliable service.

• Bank Commonwealth Tuban (Map; 750049; Jl Dewi Sartika 8X;11am-7pm); Legian (Map; 758070; Jl Legian; 11am-7pm)

Post

Postal agencies that can send but not receive mail are common.

There are several cargo agencies in the Kuta area. If you’ve bought bulky items, the store will usually have arrangements with shippers to handle things for you. Or, for fast service, you can use one of the expensive international companies.

• Main post office (Map; Jl Selamet; 7am-2pm Mon-Thu, 7-11am Fri, 7am-1pm Sat) On a small road east of Jl Raya Kuta, this small and efficient post office has an easy, sort-it-yourself poste restante service. It’s well practised in shipping large packages.

Tourist Information

Places that advertise themselves as ‘tourist information centres’ are usually commercial travel agents or worse: time-share condo sales operations.

• Tourist Information Centre (Map; 766180; Jl Raya Kuta; 8am-3pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm Fri) Handles the Kuta region and the rest of Bali. Its usefulness is limited, however.
• Hanafi (Map; 756454; www.hanafi.net; Jl Pantai Kuta 1E) This gay- and family-friendly tour operator and guide operates from a small veterinary clinic he shares with his sister. He’s a valuable source of information, can also organise tours and has a small café.

Travel Agencies

Many travel agents will arrange transport or car and motorcycle rental. They also sell tickets for dance performances, adventure activities and a variety of tours. Most will also change money and many can book airline tickets, although for some discount carriers you’re better off at an internet café.

• Cevin Tour & Travel (Map; 7437343; [email protected]; Jl Arjuna 23) A reputable agent, popular with expats.

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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES

The streets and gang are usually safe but there are annoyances. Scooter-borne prostitutes (who hassle single men late at night) cruise after dark. Walking along you may hear: ‘massage’ followed by ‘young girl’ and the ubiquitous ‘transport’ followed by ‘blow’. But your biggest irritation will likely be the ever-worsening traffic.

GETTING AWAY FROM IT ALL

Dodging cars, motorcycles, touts, dogs and dodgy footpaths can make walking through Kuta and Legian seem like anything but a holiday. It’s intense and it can be stressful. You may soon be longing for uncrowded places where you hear little more than the rustling of palm fronds and the call of a bird.

Think you need to book a trip out of town? Well, think again. You can escape to the country without leaving Kuta and Legian. All those teeming streets surround vacant swaths of land and once you poke through the wall of commerce, you can be transported back to a Kuta and Legian of 20 years ago. The secret is to get off the streets and onto the gang. In Kuta, this is hard, as even these can be crowded, but take any alley or lane heading east of Jl Legian and you’ll be in the quieter neighbourhood where the locals live.

Better still is Legian. Take any of the narrow gang into the area bounded by Jl Legian, Jl Padma, Jl Padma Utara and Jl Pura Bagus Taruna. Soon you’ll be on narrow paths that go past local houses and the occasional simple warung (food stall) or shop. Wander at random and enjoy the silence accented by, yes, the sound of palm fronds and birds.

Hawkers

Crackdowns mean that it’s rare to find carts in the Kuta tourist area, but street selling is common, especially on hassle street, Jl Legian, where selling and begging can be aggressive. The beach isn’t unbearable, but the upper part has souvenir sellers and masseuses (who may grab hold of you and not let go). Closer to the water you can sunbake on the sand in peace – you’ll see where the invisible line is.

Surf

The surf can be very dangerous, with a strong current on some tides, especially up north in Legian. Lifeguards patrol swimming areas of the beaches at Kuta and Legian, indicated by red-and-yellow flags. If they say the water is too rough or unsafe to swim in, they mean it. Red flags with a skull and crossbones mean no swimming allowed.

The lifeguards are very dedicated, as anyone who saw the Bali series of the show Bondi Rescue can attest.

Theft

Visitors lose things from unlocked (and some locked) hotel rooms and from the beach. Going into the water and leaving valuables on the beach is simply asking for trouble (in any country). Snatch thefts are rare, but valuable items can be left at your hotel reception.

Water Pollution

The sea water around Kuta is commonly contaminated by run-off from both built-up areas and surrounding farmland, especially after heavy rain. Swim away from streams.

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SIGHTS

The real sight here is of course the beach. You can immerse yourself in local life without even getting wet. A new walkway runs south from where Jl Pantai Kuta meets the beach. Stretching almost to the airport, it has fine views of the ocean as well as the efforts to preserve some of Tuban’s nearly-vanished beach.

Wanderers, browsers and gawkers will find much to fascinate, delight and irritate amidst the streets, alleys and constant hubbub. You can even discover the odd non-touristy site like an old Chinese Temple (Map; Jl Blambangan).

Reflecting the international character of the 2002 bombings (Click here) is the memorial wall (Map; Jl Raya Seminyak), where people from many nationalities pay their respects. Listing the names of the 202 known victims, including 88 Australians and 35 Indonesians, it has an emotional effect on many who view it. Across the street, a vacant lot is all that is left of the Sari Club. Plans to turn the site into a memorial park (www.balipeacepark.com) are proving difficult, and in the meantime it’s used for motorbike parking.

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ACTIVITIES

From Kuta you can easily go surfing, sailing, diving, fishing or rafting anywhere in the southern part of Bali and still be back for the start of happy hour at sunset.

Many of your activities in Kuta will centre on the superb beach. Hawkers will sell you sodas and beer, snacks and other treats, and you can rent lounge chairs and umbrellas (negotiable at 10,000Rp to 20,000Rp) or just crash on the sand. You’ll see everyone from bronzed international youth strutting their stuff, to local families trying to figure out how to get wet and preserve their modesty. When the tide is out, the beach seems to stretch forever and you should be tempted for a long stroll. Sunsets are a time of gathering for just about everyone in South Bali. When conditions are right, you can enjoy a fuchsia-streaked spectacle that photos just can’t capture properly.

Organised activities on land and sea are almost as frenzied as the efforts to sell you them, Click here for details.

Surfing

The beach break called Halfway Kuta, offshore near the Hotel Istana Rama, is the best place to learn to surf. More challenging breaks can be found on the shifting sandbars off Legian, around the end of Jl Padma; and at Kuta Reef, 1km out to sea off Tuban Beach (Click here for details on these surf breaks). Shops large and small sell big-brand surf gear and surfboards Click here. Stalls on the side streets hire out surfboards (for a negotiable 30,000Rp per day) and boogie boards, repair dings and sell new and used boards. Some can also arrange transport to nearby surfing spots. Used boards in good shape average US$200. Check out the free surfing magazines such as Magic Wave. Surf schools line the beach.

G-Land Jungle Surf Camp (Map; 763166; www.g-land.com; Poppies Gang II; tours from US$350) is the Kuta office for the surf camp at legendary G-Land on Java. Overnight transfers penetrate the jungle to the simple lodge and spectacular breaks.

Naruki Surf Shop (Map; 765772; Jl Poppies Gang II; 10am-7pm) is one of dozens of surf shops lining the gang of Kuta. The friendly guys here will rent you a board, fix your ding, offer advice or give you lessons.

Pro Surf School (Map; 744 1466; www.prosurfschool.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; lessons from US$45; classes from 9am) is right across from the classic stretch of Kuta Beach. Facilities here include a swimming pool and semi-private lesson areas where you can first stroke your board.

Rip Curl School of Surf (Map; 735858; www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com; Jl Arjuna; lessons from US$45; classes from 8am), run by the high-profile, local surf-wear conglomerate, is a school offering classes for beginners and experts alike. Located right on ever-popular Double Six beach.

Waterbom Park

This popular theme park (Map; 755676; www.waterbom.com; Jl Kartika Plaza, Tuban; adult/child US$21/11; 9am-6pm), south of Kuta, is set on 3.5 hectares of landscaped tropical parks and has assorted water slides, swimming pools, play areas, a supervised park for children under five years old, and a ‘superbowl’, where you literally go down the drain. Other indulgences include a food court, swim-up bar and a spa. There are lifeguards and it’s well supervised.

Swimming Pools

Most hotels will allow non-guests to use their pool for a fee. The most impressive is the Hard Rock Hotel’s aquatic playground (Map; 761869; Jl Pantai Kuta; adult/child/family100,000/50,000/250,000Rp; 8am-9pm). The vast, sinuous pool features two water slides and a sandy beach island. There are lifeguards, and if you need a snog, you can rent private cabanas for 200,000Rp.

LEGIAN’S SURFING LEGEND

Tippi Jabrik, 30, is head of the Indonesia Surfing Championships and a longtime surfer who grew up in Legian. He started surfing when he was five years old on the beach near his home in Legian. It’s the place where surfing began in Bali, when the American hotel pioneer Robert Koke brought it to the island from Hawaii in the 1930s. As a youngster, Jabrik was one of the few Balinese taking to the waves. And even though locals had by tradition feared the water, he dived into the sport. Why? ‘My Dad took me to the beach a lot and I saw other guys doing it and it looked fun. Of course then there were like 50 people surfing, now there are thousands.’ He notes that surfing has definitely found its place amongst Bali’s youth. ‘There are more locals on the beach than tourists.’ But he says despite the popularity of the sport, everyone can get along if visitors simply ‘show respect for the locals’. His greater fear is for Kuta Beach itself. ‘Since they lengthened the runway at the airport a few years ago, the sand has been going away. Look at the breakwaters they are having to build in Tuban.’

Massages, Spas & Salons

The top-end Mandara Spa (Map; 752111; www.mandaraspa.com; Jl Padma 1; massages from US$35; 10am-8pm) is in the Hotel Padma Bali. This divine spa is decorated with water features and impressive stone sculptural reliefs.

As stylish as its host hotel, Spa (Map; 751946; Bali Niksoma Beach Resort, Jl Padma Utara; traditional massage 300,000Rp; 9am-9pm) offers private suites where you can indulge in everything from a pampering Bali coffee scrub to shiatsu.

The delightfully relaxed spa at Putri Bali (Map; 755987; Jl Padma Utara; massage from 60,000Rp; 10am-9pm) at the Wisata Beach Inn offers a cream bath that has set the hearts of many spa-o-philes a-twitter with delight. Located off the main street, this lovely spa has very competitive prices.

Another local favourite, Aroma Jepun (Map; 847 5655; Jl Nakula; massage from 85,000Rp; 10am-8pm) has treatments with intriguing names like Aroma Cook Scrub and Cappucino Body Scrub. It also offers massage by two masseuses in order to get you out the door faster, although that seems to run counter to the goal.

Enjoy a ‘Foot Frenzy’ at Ambiente Reflex-ology (Map; 758174; Jl Sahadewa; sessions from 65,000Rp; 10am-7pm). Although the focus is on your lower echelons, your head might also swell with joy after a ‘Scalp Seduction’, one of a wide range of massages and treatments –which includes ‘Ultimate Pleasure’.

Run by stylish hipsters, Kudo’s (Map; 756030; Jl Legian 456; 10am-8pm) is a high-concept salon that is the place to go for a cut and blow-dry. It’s popular with brides before their big moment.

Bungy Jumping

AJ Hackett Bungy (Map; 731144; Jl Arjuna; from US$79; noon-8pm daily, 2-6am Fri & Sat), beside the beach at the Double Six Club in Legian, has a great view of the coast (you can’t see the hideous tower you’re standing on – or bouncing from). Late-night hours for boozers give new meaning to ‘Look out below!’.

Activities for Children

Except for the traffic, the Kuta area is a pretty good place for kids. With supervision – and sunscreen! – they can cavort on the beach for hours. Almost all the hotels and resorts above the surfer-dude category have pools and the better ones offer kids’ programs. Click here for details on other things kids will enjoy.

Amazone (Map; Discovery Shopping Mall, Jl Kartika Plaza, Tuban; 10am-10pm) has hundreds of screeching arcade games on the top floor of the mall.

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TOURS

A vast range of tours all around Bali, from half-day to three-day tours, can be booked through your hotel or the plethora of stands plastered with brochures. These tours are a quick and easy way to see a few sights if your time is limited and you don’t want to rent or charter a vehicle. Click here for more information on the types of tours available.

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The first Kuta Karnival (www.kutakarnival.com) was held in 2003 as a way of celebrating life after the tragedy of 2002. It’s become an almost-annual event held in September or October (except when it’s in June…). Events include parades, arts competitions, cultural shows, beach-sports tournaments, parades and more. You can try to check the website to find out when the next karnival may (or may not) be on.

There are surfing contests throughout the year.

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SLEEPING

Kuta, Legian and Tuban have hundreds of places for you to stay. The top-end hotels are along the beachfront, midrange places are mostly on the bigger roads between Jl Legian and the beach, and the cheapest joints are generally along the smaller lanes in between. Tuban and Legian have mostly midrange and top-end hotels – the best places to find budget accommodation are Kuta and southern Legian.

With hotel names, be sceptical about words such as ‘beach’, ‘sea view’, ‘cottage’ and ‘bungalows’. Places with ‘beach’ in their name may not be anywhere near the beach, and a featureless, three-storey hotel block may rejoice in the name ‘cottages’. Note that hotels on Jl Pantai Kuta are separated from the beach by a busy main road south of Jl Melasti. North of Jl Melasti in Legian, though, the beach road is protected by gates that exclude almost all vehicle traffic. Hotels here have what is in effect a quiet, paved beachfront promenade.

Any place that is west of Jl Legian won’t be more than a 10-minute walk to the beach.

Budget

The best budget accommodation is in a losmenwith rooms facing a central garden. Look for a place that is far enough off the main roads to be quiet, but close enough so that getting to the beach, shops and restaurants isn’t a problem. Luxuries like air-con and pools have become common, although the cheapest rooms are fan- and cold-water-only.

One street can have lots of places with similar rates but quality can vary markedly: one hotel will have a scrum of three-storey blocks jammed into a small site while next door there’s a sunny compound with sunny rooms around a pool. Definitely shop around, especially out of peak season when prices are negotiable.

KUTA

Many of the cheap places in Kuta are along the tiny alleys and lanes between Jl Legian and the beach in central Kuta. This is a good place to base yourself: it’s quiet, but only a short walk from the beach, shops and nightlife. A few places on the eastern side of Jl Legian are close to the bars and restaurants, but can be noisy and a hike from the beach. Jl Benesari is a great place to stay, close to the beach and quieter than the Poppies Gangs. Gang Sorga is another top pick, with scores of options.

Puri Agung Homestay (Map; 750054; off Poppies Gang I; s/d 30,000/50,000Rp) The budget winner in Kuta. Hungover surfers will appreciate the 12 dark, cold-water rooms at this attractive little place that features a tiny grotto-like garden. Non-vampires can find more light on the top floor.

Komala Indah I (Map; 753185; Jl Benesari; r 50,000-150,000Rp; ) The rooms here are set around a pleasant garden; the cheapest of the 30 rooms have squat toilets, fans and twin beds only. It’s part of the Komala empire that dates back to the early days of Kuta tourism.

Berlian Inn (Map; 751501; off Poppies Gang I;r 70,000-225,000Rp; ) A stylish cut above other budget places, the 24 rooms in two-storeybuildings here are pleasingly quiet and have ikat bedspreads and an unusual open-air bathroom design. Pricier rooms have air-con and hot water.

Kedin’s II (Map; 763554; Gang Sorga; s/d from 80,000/110,000Rp; ) One of the best budget choices. Here the 16 cold-water rooms (with showers) have hints of style and verandahs with fine views of the gardens and the good-sized pool.

Bene Yasa I (Map; 754180; Poppies Gang II;r 80,000-200,000Rp; ) The grounds at this 44-room hotel are large and open, with palms providing some shade. Three-storey blocks overlook the pool area, and the plethora of patios encourages a lively social scene (except at midday, when many guests are passed out on loungers). Better rooms have tubs and air-con.

Gemini Star Hotel (Map; 750558; [email protected]; Poppies Gang II; r 90,000-185,000Rp; ) Only the monosyllabic mutterings of lounging surfers interrupt the peace at this small, quiet hotel on a narrow alley. Two two-storey blocks shelter the sunny and surprisingly large pool area. Cheap rooms have fans and hot water; more money adds air-con and fridges.

Bendesa (Map; 754366; www.bendesaaccommodation.com; off Poppies Gang II; r US$13-30; ) The 42 rooms here include 10 new ones with air-con. The location is quiet and there’s an attractive pool. The cheapest rooms – all clean – have cold water (some with bathtubs) and fan.

Mimpi Bungalows (Map; 751848; [email protected]; Gang Sorga; r 150,000R-200,000Rp; ) The cheapest of the 10 bungalow-style rooms here are the best value. The private gardens boast orchids and shade, and the pool is a good size. The owner, Made Supatra, is a tireless promoter of Kuta.

LEGIAN

The streets are wider here and the pace is less frenetic than just south in Kuta. Budget places tend to be larger as well. Wander off the main roads for some quiet gems.

Senen Beach Inn (Map; 755470; Gang Camplung Mas 25; r 50,000-70,000Rp) In a quiet little gang near Jl Melasti, this 18-room, cold-water place is run by friendly young guys. Rooms have outdoor bathrooms and are set around a small garden. There are several other family-run cheapies hidden back here.

Sri Beach Inn (Map; 755897; Gang Legian Tewngah; r 60,000Rp) Follow a series of paths into the heart of old Legian. When you hear the rustle of palms overhead, you’re close to this homestay with eight simple, clean rooms. The gardens get lovelier by the year; agree to a monthly rate and watch them grow.

Legian Beach Bungalow (Map; 751087; [email protected]; Jl Padma; r 70,000-175,000Rp; ) The cheapest of the 20 rooms at this simple place only have cold water but all have air-con; some have bathtubs. The single-and two-storey blocks hem in the pool.

Bhuwana Beach Cottages (Map; 752234; Jl Padma Utara; r from 150,000Rp) Barebones budget accommodation in the commercial heart of Legian (and when we say commercial, we mean it – you can even buy a date). The eight cold-water rooms have thatched walls and are far from modern. But the proximity to a beach quieter than Kuta’s attracts many.

Midrange

The bulk of accommodation in the Kuta area falls into the midrange category, especially in Legian. Quality varies widely, with some places offering quite a bit in terms of location, amenities and service. Leave the rest for hapless groups.

KUTA

These places are handy to the beach.

Suji Bungalow (Map; 765804; www.sujibglw.com; off Poppies Gang I; r US$20-32; wi-fi) You can have your choice of 47 bungalows and rooms in two-storey blocks set in a spacious, quiet garden around a pool (which has a slide into the kiddie area) at this cheery place. The verandahs and terraces are good for relaxing.

Kuta Puri Bungalows (Map; 751903; www.kutapuri.com; Poppies Gang I; r US$25-35, with air-con & hot water US$35-50; wi-fi) The 47 bungalow-style rooms here are well maintained and are nestled in verdant, tropical grounds. The pool has a shallow kids’ area. Get a room close to reception for the best wi-fi signal.

Un’s Hotel (Map; 757409; www.unshotel.com; Jl Benesari; s/d US$26/36, with air-con US$38/45; wi-fi) A hidden entrance sets the tone for the secluded feel of Un’s. It’s a two-storey place with bougainvillea spilling over the pool-facing balconies. The 30 spacious rooms in a facing pair of two-storey blocks (the southern one is quieter) feature antiques, comfy cane loungers and open-air bathrooms.

Bali Bungalo (Map; 755109; www.bali-bungalo.com; off Jl Pantai Kuta; r from 375,000Rp; ) Large rooms close to the beach yet away from irritations are a big part of the appeal of this older, 44-room hotel. It’s well maintained and there are prancing statues of horses to inspire horseplay in the pool. Rooms are in two-storey buildings and have patios/porches.

Poppies Cottages (Map; 751059; www.poppiesbali.com; Poppies Gang I; r US$75-100; wi-fi) This Kuta institution has a lush, green garden setting for its 20 thatch-roofed cottages with outdoor sunken baths. Bed choices include kings and twins. The pool is surrounded by stone sculptures and water fountains in a garden that almost makes you forget you are in the heart of Kuta.

Kuta Seaview Cottages (Map; 751961; www.kutaseaviewhotel.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r US$80-110; ) The 82 stylishly decorated rooms feature the dark-wood-and-créme-walls minimalist look that’s de rigueur right now. Choices include rooms with beach views and cottages set in the lovely gardens. Right across the street from the beach, the pool area has surf views. Nappers should avoid rooms near the bar and its bad sunset rock.

LEGIAN

Further north, many hotels have great locations on the beach. There’s a crop of good-value places along Jl Lebak Bene.

Three Brothers Inn (Map; 751566; www.threebrothersbungalows.com; off Jl Padma Utara; r US$20-35, with air-con US$25-45; ) Twisting banyan trees shade scores of brick bungalows holding 83 rooms in the Brothers’ sprawling and garden-like grounds. The fan rooms are the best option, but all rooms are spacious, some with alluring outdoor bathrooms (all have tubs). Top-end rooms have DVD players.

Hotel Camplung Mas (Map; 751461; www.camplungmashotel.com; Jl Lebak Bene; r US$35-60; ) Balinese stone architecture highlights the lush gardens here. Of the 69 rooms, the private bungalows set in walled compounds are appealing. Some of the well-maintained rooms have a whitewashed brick motif. Several other midrange choices are nearby.

Maharta Beach Resort (Map; 757688; [email protected]; Jl Padma Utara; r US$45-70; ) Tucked into a tiny beachfront pocket, the Maharta is a few years old but solidly maintained. Its real advantage is its beachy location. The 34 rooms (with patios/balconies) have typical Balinese wood furnishings, some with bathtubs and tile floors. Some beds boast an oddly angled overhead mirror that invites contortions by narcissists.

Hotel Kumala Pantai (Map; 755500; www.kumalapantai.com; Jl Werkudara; r US$50-70; wi-fi) One of the better deals in Legian. The 108 rooms (20 in a new building) are large, with marble bathrooms that have a separate shower and tub. The three-storey blocks are set in nicely landscaped grounds across from popular Double Six beach. The breakfast buffet is bountiful. A cheaper sister property, the Hotel Kumala (732186; Jl Pura Bagus Taruna), is nearby.

Sari Beach Inn (Map; 751635; [email protected]; off Jl Padma Utara; r US$50-90; ) Follow your ears down a long gang to the roar of the surf at this great-value beachside hotel that defines mellow. The 24 rooms have patios and the best have big soaking tubs. The grassy grounds boast many little statues and water features.

Jayakarta Hotel (Map; 751433; www.jayakartahotelsresorts.com; Jl Pura Bagus Taruna; r US$70-150; wi-fi) The Jayakarta fronts a long and shady stretch of beach. The palm-shaded grounds, 277 large rooms, several pools and various restaurants make it a favourite with groups and families. Hair-braiders give kids that holiday look by the pool. Wi-fi reception varies by room.

Lokha Legian (Map; 766 7601; www.thelokhalegian.com; Jl Padma; r from US$90; wi-fi) This modern and stylish place in Legian sets the midrange standard. The 49 rooms are not huge but neither are the prices. The close-in U-shaped block overlooks a large pool and pals from Perth shout from one terrace to the next. The beach is a five-minute walk.

Top End

A beachfront room is the goal of many. Note that those in Tuban and north in Seminyak are usually right on the beach – Seminyak’s beach is far superior. Beachfront hotels in Kuta front busy Jl Pantai Kuta while most of Legian’s top hotels (and some more modest ones) front a fine swath of beach and a road closed to traffic – in effect, a long promenade.

TUBAN

It’s quieter here than Kuta but the action is a short walk north along the new oceanfront walkway (the beach can get mighty small at high tide). This one is on the water.

Hotel Santika Beach (Map;751267; www.santika.net; Jl Kartika Plaza; r US$90-175; wi-fi) A cute frangipani-lined entrance leads into verdant grounds. Bungalows are secluded and have private gardens; the 170 rooms have private balconies (although the cheapest are on a back acre). The design is restrained compared to some of the big group-tour behemoths nearby and the staff are warm and professional.

Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel (Map; 751067; www.discoverykartikaplaza.com; Jl Kartika Plaza; r US$140-220; wi-fi) The 312 spacious rooms in four-storey blocks at this large resort front expansive gardens and a gigantic swimming pool. For a real splurge, rent one of the private villas on the water (units 2 to 7 are best). The business centre has Macs.

KUTA

Top-end hotels in Kuta suffer from being on the wrong side of busy Jl Pantai Kuta.

Hard Rock Hotel (Map; 761869; www.hardrockhotels.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r from US$120; wi-fi) Nothing is understated about the ostentatious 400 rooms which, despite various themes, all feel like a retail opportunity. The pool is more fantasyland than amenity (Click here). The staff are skilful and you never need long to buy a T-shirt in the Megastore.

LEGIAN

Most of the top-end places in Legian are directly opposite the beach on stretches of road closed to traffic. These tend to be relaxed places favoured by families. A vast new condo–hotel, the Legian Nirwana, is set to open in 2009 and may well spark a new building boom.

Bali Mandira Hotel (Map; 751381; www.balimandira.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; r US$110-180, cottage from US$160; wi-fi) Gardens filled with bird of paradise flowers set the tone at this 191-room full-service resort. Cottages have modern interiors, and the bathrooms are partly open-air. A dramatic pool at the peak of a stone ziggurat (which houses a spa) offers sweeping ocean views, as does the café. Wi-fi is best near reception.

Bali Niksoma Beach Resort (Map; 751946; www.baliniksoma.com; Jl Padma Utara; r US$125-175, villas from US$600; wi-fi) An older beachside hotel, the Niksoma was rebuilt into a chic boutique hotel. One of the two multilevel pools seems to disappear into the ocean and horizon. The decor is spare while the grounds are spacious. There is a noteworthy spa called, well, Spa.

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EATING

There’s a profusion of places to eat around Kuta and Legian. Cafés with their cheap menus of Indonesian standards, sandwiches and pizza are ubiquitous. Other forms of Asian fare can be found as well and there are numerous places serving fresh seafood, steaks and pasta. There is also a good range of excellent yet humble Balinese places.

If you’re looking for the laid-back scene of a classic travellers café, wander the gang and look for the crowds. Often what’s busy one night will be quiet the next. For quick snacks and 4am stubbies, Circle K convenience stores are everywhere and are open 24 hours.

Tuban

The beachfront hotels all have restaurants – in most cases, the best features for non-guests are the beachside cafés, good for a tropical snack or a sunset drink.

Discovery Shopping Mall (Map; Jl Kartika Plaza; ) Home to many places to eat, including a top-floor food court (meals 5000Rp to 10,000Rp) with scores of vendors selling cheap, fresh Asian food. You can eat outside on a terrace overlooking Kuta Beach. Near the entrance, Bread Talk is a wildly popular bakery where you grab tongs and choose your own goodies. There are also several stylish coffee cafés (and we’re not talking about the joint on level 1 that rhymes with ‘sucks’).

Warung Nikmat (Map; 764678; Jl Banjar Sari; dishes 10,000-25,000Rp) This Javanese favourite in downtown Kuta is known for its array of authentic halal dishes ranging from beef rendang to perkodel (fried corn cakes), prawn cakes, spiced shredded chicken and various curries and vegetable dishes. Get there before 2pm or you’ll be left with the scraps.

Kafe Batan Waru (Map;766303; Jl Kartika Plaza; mains 25,000-50,000Rp) The Tuban branch of one of Ubud’s best eateries Click here is a slicked-up version of a warung (foor stall), albeit with excellent and creative Asian and local fare. There’s also good coffee, baked goods and magazines.

B Couple Bar n’ Grill (Map; 761414; Jl Kartika Plaza; mains from 30,000Rp; 24hr) A vibrant mix of upscale local families and a swath of tourists (menus are even in Russian) tuck into Jimbaran-style grilled seafood in this slick operation. Pool tables and live music add to the din while flames flare in the open kitchens.

Ma Joly (Map;753708; Jl Segara; dishes 60,000-180,000Rp) Having been partially washed away –along with the beach – by high tides in 2008, this smart, open-air restaurant has been rebuilt and still has its snazzy ocean views right on a private bit of beach. The menu is ambitious (with prices to match) – look for complex seafood creations and mains with a French flair.

Kuta

The local Kuta market (Map; Jl Paya Kuta; 6am-4pm) is not big but its popularity ensures constant turnover. Look for some of Bali’s unusual fruits here, such as the mangosteen.

Kuta Food Court (Map; Jl Pantai Kuta; meals from 7000Rp; 5pm-3am) A slick, modern version of a night market, this open-air collection of food stalls is as tidy as they come. Choose from a vast array of local specialities plus seafood from Jimbaran. Dine for as little as 7000Rp with karaoke and cover bands thrown in for free (although some may say this is a cost).

ON THE BEACH

Busy Jl Pantai Kuta keeps beachside businesses to a minimum in Kuta. Beach vendors are pretty much limited to drinks.

CENTRAL KUTA

Kuta night market (Map; Jl Blambangan; dishes 5000-15,000Rp; 6pm-midnight) This enclave of stalls and plastic chairs bustles with locals and tourism workers chowing down on hot-off-the-wok treats, grilled goods and other fresh foods.

Made’s Warung (Map; 755297; Jl Pantai Kuta; dishes 15,000-90,000Rp) Made’s was the original tourist warung in Kuta. Through the years, the Westernised Indonesian menu has been much copied. Classic dishes such as nasi campur (rice served with side dishes) are served with colour and flair. Although not the hub it once was, Made’s is still a pleasant spot.

Warung Hanafi (Map; 765442; Jl Pantai Kuta 1C; mains from 20,000Rp) Run by a longtime guide; the best dish here is straight from Hanafi’s mother: mie goreng (the secret is day-old rice). Watch the passing traffic chaos while you try a refreshing – and bright-red – tamarillo juice. The drinks menu is booze-free and everything is cooked halal.

Poppies Restaurant (Map; 751059; Poppies Gang I; dishes 30,000-100,000Rp; wi-fi) Right on its namesake gang, long-running Poppies is popular for its lush garden setting, which has a timeless romance. The menu combines upscale Western (avocado and shrimp) and Balinese (your own little grill of satay) tastes.

Havana Club (Map; 767448; Poppies Gang I; mains 30,000-100,000Rp) Somewhere between Madrid, Cancun and Kuta in concept and execution, this somewhat posh bodega has steaks and Mexican food that takes a back seat to the pricey pitchers of sangria. Asian standards and pastas are right out of central casting.

ALONG JL LEGIAN

The possibilities of eating choices along Jl Legian seem endless, but avoid tables close to the busy street.

Kopi Pot (Map; 752614; Jl Legian; dishes 25,000-60,000Rp; wi-fi) Shaded by trees, Kopi Pot is a favourite, popular for its coffees, milkshakes and myriad desserts. The multilevel, open-air dining area sits back from noxious Jl Legian.

Ketupat (Map; 754209; Jl Legian; dishes 30,000-120,000Rp) Hidden behind the antique-filled Jonathan Gallery, Ketupat is a calm, serene oasis. Open-air dining pavilions overlook an azure pool. Dishes originate from across Indonesia, including Javanese curries like nasi hijau harum (fried rice with greens, shrimps and herbs). This is one of the best places for a fancy local meal in the Kuta area.

Mama’s (Map; 761151; Jl Legian; dishes 30,000-120,000Rp; 24hr) This German classic serves up schnitzel and other pork-heavy dishes around the clock. Bintang comes by the litre and the open-air bar is a merry place for enjoying various other imported brews and the excellent local Storm microbrew.

ON & NEAR POPPIES GANG II

Rainbow Cafe (Map; 765730; Poppies Gang II;mains from 20,000Rp) Join generations of Kuta denizens quaffing the afternoon away. Deeply shaded, the vibe here is little changed in years. Many current customers are the offspring of backpackers who met at adjoining tables.

Balcony (Map; 757409; Jl Benesari 16; dishes 20,000-80,000Rp) The Balcony has a breezy tropical design and sits above the din of Jl Benesari below. Get ready for the day with a long menu of eggs and pancakes. At night there’s something for everyone, although the grilled steak and seafood skewers are a speciality.

Kori Restaurant & Bar (Map; 758605; Poppies Gang II; meals 20,000-110,000Rp) Kori’s tables are scattered about a succession of gardens and ponds. Definitely a few cuts above its very casual neighbours, this is the place to linger over a gin and tonic and a steak. Enjoy a secluded rendezvous in the flower-bedecked nooks out back. Some nights there’s live acoustic music.

EAST OF KUTA

Dapur Alam (Map; 757506; Jl Patih Jelantik 81; mains from 15,000Rp; 5-11pm) A real find (if you can find it). The name of this upscale night market means ‘Natural Kitchen’. Spotless tables under two pavilions welcome diners to this shady spot below the road near the river. Various open kitchens serve dishes from across the archipelago. Even standards like the spicy satay ayam (chicken satay) are inspired. Kids enjoy a playground.

Bali Bakery (Map; 755149; Jl Imam Bonjol; meals 20,000-60,000Rp; wi-fi) There are fresh baguettes and much more daily at this classic Western bakery. The chocolates are excellent. It also has a large and popular café with a good menu of salads, sandwiches and pasta.

Swiss Restaurant (Map; 761511; Istana Kuta Galleria, Jl Patih Jelantik; meals 30,000-90,000Rp; ) Bali’s Swiss consul, Jon Zürcher, plays his violin on Sunday nights and hosts a Balinese banquet and dancers on Thursday nights. On other nights you may enjoy Sumatran singers while you trade volcanoes for the Alps and enjoy raclette and fondue.

Take (Map; 759745; Jl Patih Jelantik; meals from 50,000Rp) Flee Bali for Tokyo just by ducking under the traditional fabric shield over the door. Hyper-fresh sushi, sashimi and more are prepared under the fanatical eye of a team of chefs behind a long counter. Dine at low tables or hang out in a booth.

Legian

Some of the beachside hotels have restaurants –often Italian – with nice views. Better still is the clutch of places at the end of Jl Double Six that afford views of sandy action by day, strolling fun-seekers by night and sunsets in between. Along the streets of Legian, the ho-hum mix with the superb, so take your time choosing.

Legian Night Market (Map; Jl Nakula; meals from 10,000Rp; 5pm-midnight) A classic collection of simple stalls creating fresh Balinese and Indonesian classics for the noshing masses. See that guy with the glare? That’s the cab driver you forgot to trip.

Warung Yogya (Map; 750835; Jl Padma Utara; dishes 10,000-15,000Rp) A real find in the tourist heart of Legian, this basic warung is spotless and serves up hearty portions of Balinese classics. The gado-gado comes with a huge bowl of peanut sauce.

Saleko (Map; Jl Nakula 4; meals from 10,000Rp) Just off the madness of Jl Legian, this simple storefront draws the discerning for its simple Sumatran fare. Spicy grilled chicken and fish dare you to ladle on the volcanic sambal.

Warung Murah (Map; 732082; Jl Arjuna; meals from 20,000Rp) Lunch goes swimmingly at this authentic warung specialising in seafood. An array of grilled fish awaits; if you prefer fowl over fin, the satay ayam is succulent and a bargain.

Cozy Corner (Map; 0813 3890 7464; cnr Jl Arjuna & Jl Padma Utara; cones from 5000Rp) Finish off that hot day on the beach with a cool cone of Bali-made gelato at this corner spot. Lounge on the comfy wicker chairs while you get your tongue around any of 10 fresh flavours.

Warung Asia (Map; 742 0202; off Jl Double Six & Jl Pura Bagus Taruna; dishes 10,000-30,000Rp; wi-fi) Look down a couple of little gang for this dollhouse of a café. Traditional Thai dishes are paired with an authentic Italian espresso machine; lose your afternoon over the many newspapers.

Indo-National (Map; 759883; Jl Padma 17; mains 20,000-90,000Rp) Kerry and Milton Turner’s popular restaurant is a home-away-from-home for legions of fans. Grab a cold one with the crew up front at the bar with a sweeping view of Legian’s action. Or head back to a pair of shady and romantic tables. Order the heaping grilled seafood platter and Bali’s best garlic bread; the prawn toast is tops. Toss back a few Bintangs and see how many world monuments you can name amidst the sky-blue murals.

Bianco (Map; 760070; Jl Padma; mains from 30,000Rp) Although there’s a dash of colonial style at this breezy place, lips here are more likely to be puckered around a cold Bintang than cheroot. Oz satellite sports dominates the screens at the sports bar-cum-restaurant. The menu mixes Indonesian and Italian fare.

Yut’z (Map; 765047; Jl Pura Bagus Taruna 52; dishes 30,000-120,000Rp) An upscale European restaurant, Yut’z overlooks the street and a small garden. The menu is centered on steaks in a variety of cuts and preparations. If your day doesn’t start without muesli, you can get your Frühstück fix here.

DOUBLE SIX BEACH

These places are right on the popular beach, which is always thronged with locals and visitors alike. The following are good come sunset.

Zanzibar (Map; 733529; Jl Double Six; dishes 30,000-70,000Rp) A flash rehab has added a second level with views over the shade trees. The menu is a typical mix of Indo-pasta-sandwiches and very good thin-crust pizza, but that’s not your priority – get a large table with a group and enjoy the beachy views.

Seaside (Map; 737140; Jl Double Six; dishes 30,000-80,000Rp) The curving sweep of seating at this sleek place provides beach views for one and all. Upstairs, there’s a vast patio with oodles of picnic tables for counting stars after the sun goes down. Seafood and meat dishes come with a touch of style.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Around 6pm every day, sunset on the beach is the big attraction, perhaps while enjoying a drink at a café with a sea view. Later on, even as the temperature diminishes, the action heats up, especially at the raging clubs of Kuta. Many spend their evening at one of the hipster joints in Seminyak before working their way south to oblivion.

Watching DVDs at a bar with a crowd is a Kuta evening tradition (and much more budget-friendly than a Seminyak club) and you’ll find scores of places in and around the Poppies. Look for signs during the day or follow your ears at night. Expect anything with lots of guns and unshaven guys.

Check out the free mag, The Beat (www.beatmag.com), for good club listings and other ‘what’s on’ news.

Bars & Clubs

Most bars are free to enter, and often have special drink promotions and ‘happy hours’ between about 5pm and 8pm. A cover charge is uncommon. Ambience ranges from the low-down vibe of the surfer dives to the high-concept nightclubs with their renowned DJs, long drink menus and hordes of prowling servers.

At the more raucous clubs you’ll see plenty of young women (usually from the north or a neighbouring island) looking to make a ‘friend’ – usually a Western guy who’s a multiple of their age.

The high-concept clubs of Seminyak are most popular with gays and lesbians, but in general you can find a mixed crowd pretty much anywhere in Kuta and Legian.

TUBAN

DeeJay Cafe (Map; 758880; 2nd fl, Kuta Centre, off Jl Kartika Plaza 8x; 9pm-7am) The post-midnight hours see this place rocking in the post-apocalyptic Kuta Centre, the run-down shell of a tourist mall. House DJs play tribal underground, progressive trance and more. Beware of posers who set their alarms for 5am and arrive all fresh.

KUTA

Jl Legian is lined with interchangeable bars with bar stools moulded to the butts of hard-drinking regulars.

Apache Reggae Bar (Map; 761212; Jl Legian 146; 11pm-4am) One of the rowdier spots in Kuta, Apache jams in locals and visitors, many of whom are on the make. The music is loud, but that pounding you feel the next day is from the free-flowing arak (local spirits) served in huge plastic jugs.

Bed (Map; 483978; Jl Benesari; 8am-1am) Don’t expect to get horizontal on a queen-size here despite the name (although there are some mighty seductive loungers). Near the beach, this stylish café-bar has funky music at night and calorie-laden food to combat hangovers by day. The menu climaxes with categories like ‘oral pleasures’ (sodas, ho-hum).

Bounty (Map; 752529; Jl Legian; 10pm-6am) Set on a pirate ship amidst a mini-mall of food and drink, the Bounty is a vast open-air disco that humps, thumps and pumps all night. Play seaman and get down on the poop deck to hip-hop, techno, house and anything else the DJs come up with. Watch for a new location nearby.

Mbargo (Map; 756280; Jl Legian; cover from 10,000Rp; 7pm-4am) Throbs with the Gangsta vibe, enjoyed by well-heeled suburbanites. Hard-edged DJs encourage the sweaty throngs to misbehave.

Ocean Beach Club (Map; 755423; www.escbali.com; Jl Pantai Kuta; 11am-late) This flash place occupies a swath of prime real estate across from the beach. Lounge on vivid red pillows and watch the sunset, or plunge into the pool – before or after your stint at the pool bar. There’s a long menu of bar snacks and meals (salads, sandwiches, pastas etc). Later, it throbs to an open-air club vibe.

Sky Garden Lounge (Map; 756362; www.escbali.com; Jl Legian 61; 24hr) Part of the ESC empire (which includes the Ocean Beach Club, above), this multilevel palace of flash flirts with height restrictions from its rooftop bar. Look for top DJs, a ground-level café and paparazzi-wannabes.

LEGIAN

Most of Legian’s bars are smaller and appeal to a more sedate crowd of visitors than those in Kuta. The very notable exception is the area at the end of Jl Double Six.

Legend (Map; 755376; Jl Sahadewa; 3-11pm) A popular open-air spot, the Legend draws nightly crowds for karaoke and other nonsense like ‘DIY Elvis nights’. Live music spans pop to country.

Ye Olde Foo-Kin Pub (Map; 751802; Jl Werkudara 525; 3-11pm; ) With drinks like Foo-kin Creamy, you get the point. Burgers and more are served in an air-con bar that’s probably more fun than the ones the Aussie patrons enjoy at home.

Jl Arjuna/Double Six

The eponymous club is the big destination here.

De Ja Vu (Map; 732777; Jl Double Six; 5pm-4am; ) DJs are on duty from opening every night at this high-concept, glass-fronted club with tables overlooking the beach outside.

Double Six Club (Map; 0812 462 7733; www.doublesixclub.com; Jl Arjuna; 11pm-6am) Are venerable and trendy mutually exclusive? This legendary club (and namesake for the beach, road and more) continues reinventing itself. The swimming pool is still there and so is the bungy jump (Click here). Top international DJs play a mix of dance tunes in a sleek open-air pavilion. A café up front adds glitz to sunset drinks.

Balinese Dance & Music

The Ubud area Click here is really the place to go for authentic dance, and you’ll see offers from tour operators in many hotels. But note that you won’t get back to Kuta until after 10pm with most of these. Local performances are geared for tourists who treat culture like vitamins and are often perfunctory at best.

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SHOPPING

Many people spend – literally – a major part of their trip shopping. Kuta has a vast concentration of cheap places, as well as huge, flashy surf-gear emporiums on Kuta Sq and Jl Legian. As you head north along the latter into Legian, the quality of the shops improves and you start finding cute little boutiques, especially past Jl Melasti. Jl Arjuna is lined with wholesale fabric, clothing and craft stores, giving it a bazaar feel. Continue into Seminyak (Click here) for absolutely fabulous shopping.

In Tuban, the Discovery Shopping Mall is popular, but nearby Kuta Sq is a nightmare of people who put their dukes up if you accidentally call them ‘bogan’.

Simple stalls with T-shirts, souvenirs and beachwear are everywhere (especially along the Poppies). Click here for tips on cutting a deal. Many of these stalls are crowded together in ‘art markets’ like the Kuta Square Art Market (Map) or the Jl Melasti Art Market (Map). Here, the ‘art’ ends with Bintang logos printed on cotton. The top-selling gift for those left at home are penis-shaped bottle openers in a range of colours and sizes. Bargain hard to avoid paying a stiff price.

Arts & Crafts

Shops in Kuta and Legian sell arts and crafts from almost every part of the island, from Mas woodcarvings to Kamasan paintings to Gianyar textiles. There are also many interesting pieces from other parts of Indonesia, some of questionable authenticity and value.

Lavender Bali (Map; 490243; Jl Arjuna 10X) Follow your nose to this aromatherapy emporium, brimming with potions, lotions, unguents and more.

Jonathan Gallery (Map; 754209; Jl Legian 109) A hoard of traditional art and antiques is beautifully displayed in this shop.

Puri Naga Studio (Map; 751334; Jl Lebak Bene; roughly 10am-6pm) This offbeat place in Legian is run by half a dozen local artists. The paintings of artist Wahyoe Wijaya are on display, as well as all manner of items good, bad and profane.

Beachwear & Surf Shops

A huge range of surf shops sells big-name surf gear – including Mambo, Rip Curl and Billabong – although goods may be only marginally cheaper than overseas. Local names include Surfer Girl and Quicksilver. Most have numerous locations in South Bali.

Black Sands Surfboard Bags (Map; 0813 3847 5849; Jl Benesari) Choose from myriad patterns and colours and then watch your bag (from 250,000Rp) get made on the shop floor in two days or less. There are lots of other family-run surfer shops nearby.

Rip Curl (Map; 765035; Kuta Sq) The brightest store on the square. Come here to replace that minimalist black with something eye-popping. Choose from a huge range of beach clothes, water wear and surfboards.

Surfer Girl (Map; 752693; Jl Legian 138) The sugary-sweet logo says it all about this vast store for girls of all ages. Clothes, undies, gear, bikinis, you name it.

Clothing

The local fashion industry has diversified from beach gear to sportswear and fashion clothing. From the intersection with Jl Padma, go north on Jl Legian to Seminyak for the most interesting women’s (and men’s) clothing shops.

Capt Black Bikers Fashion Shop (Map; 752735; Jl Bakung Sari 2B) Leather duds for the Harley set are peddled here by a self-professed legend. Get dolled up and then zip off, ahem, on your scooter.

IO & CO (Map; 754093; Jl Legian 361) Gauzy, silky and fashionable women’s wear in a sleek multilevel air-con shop. This Bali label also sells housewares in vibrant patterns.

Joger (Map; Jl Raya Tuban; 11am-6pm) Look for the mobs of Indonesian tourists in front of this huge T-shirt shop east of Tuban. The sign out front says ‘Pabrik kata-kata’, which means ‘factory of words’. The T-shirts are nationally iconic and bear sayings in Bahasa Indonesia that are wry, funny or simply arch.

Ming (Map; 755426; Jl Legian) An oasis of elegant resortwear amidst the T-shirt tat of Kuta. Named for the designer who has a vision of flowing cotton and linen.

Uluwatu (Map; 751933; Jl Legian) The largest of numerous locations across Bali, this elegant shop showcases the collection of lace-accented linen and cotton clothing. The styles are simple, but there are few tables that wouldn’t stand out with a set of Uluwatu table linens. The items are made in villages around Tabanan in West Bali.

Department Stores & Malls

Carrefour (Map; 847 7222; Jl Sunset; 9am-10pm) This vast outlet of the French discount chain combines lots of small shops (books, computers, bikinis etc) with one huge hypermarket. It’s the place to stock up on staples and there’s a large ready-to-eat section and a food court as well. The downside, however, is inescapable: it’s a mall.

Discovery Mall (Map; 755522; www.discoveryshoppingmall.com; Jl Kartika Plaza; 9am-9pm) Maybe if they hadn’t gone and ruined the shoreline… Anyway, this huge, hulking and popular enclosed Tuban mall is built on the water and is filled with stores of every kind, including the large Centro (769629) and trendy Sogo (769555) department stores.

Istana Kuta Galleria (Map; Jl Patih Jelantik) An enormous open-air mall that seems like a dud until you find an interesting shop amidst the canyon of glass. There is a hardware store in the rear if your needs run towards spare bulbs or duct tape.

Mal Bali Galleria (Map; 758875; Jl Ngurah Rai) A huge and newly expanded mall that is busy with locals and tourists alike. There are numerous large stores and plenty of well-known international shops. The duty-free emporium is big with the group-tour set.

Matahari (Map; 757588; Kuta Sq; 9.30am-10pm) This store has the basics – fairly staid clothing, a floor full of souvenirs, jewellery and a supermarket. You can find most things here, including some decent-quality luggage should you need extra bags to haul your wretched excess home.

Fabric

Stroll Jl Double Six in Legian for a festival of open-air wholesalers selling fabrics, clothes and housewares. Bouchra (Map; 733594; Jl Arjuna 10) sells fabric with Gaugin-esque designs that has been hand-painted in Denpasar. Busana Agung (Map; 733442; Jl Arjuna) has stacks of vibrant batiks and other fabrics that scream ‘sew me!’. Sriwijaya (Map; 733581; Jl Arjuna 35) makes batik and other fabrics to order in myriad colours.

Furniture

On Jl Patih Jelantik, between Jl Legian and Jl Pura Puseh, there are scores of furniture shops manufacturing everything from instant ‘antiques’ to wooden Indians. However, a few of the stores make and sell teak outdoor furniture of very high quality at very low prices. A luxurious deckchair goes for about 200,000Rp to 300,000Rp. Most of the stores work with freight agencies and you can get eight of these chairs sent to Australia for about US$150.

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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Bemo

Dark-blue public bemo (minibuses) regularly travel between Kuta and the Tegal terminal in Denpasar – the fare should be 8000Rp. The route goes from a bemo stop onto Jl Raya Kuta near Jl Pantai Kuta, looping past the beach and then on Jl Melasti and back past Bemo Corner (Map) for the trip back to Denpasar.

Bus

PUBLIC BUS

For public buses to anywhere in Bali, you’ll have to go to the appropriate terminal in Denpasar first; see above.

TOURIST SHUTTLE BUS

Perama (Map; 751551; www.peramatour.com; Jl Legian 39; 7am-10pm) is the main shuttle-bus operation in town, and will sometimes pick you up from your hotel for free (confirm this with them when making arrangements). Perama usually has at least one bus a day to all of its destinations.

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GETTING AROUND

The hardest part about getting around the Kuta area is the traffic. It can be awful in the afternoon and evening, and anytime the vital streets like Jl Legian are closed for religious processions or for what seems to be constant construction.

Click here for more details on getting around. Besides the frequent taxis, you can rent a motorbike, often with a surfboard rack, or a bike –just ask where you’re staying. One of the nicest ways to get around the Kuta and Legian area though is by foot, along the beach.

To/From the Airport

An official taxi from the airport costs 30,000Rp to Tuban, 45,000Rp to Kuta and 50,000Rp to Legian. Travelling to the airport, get a metered taxi for much less.

Taxi

As always, the distinctive blue taxis of Bali Taxi (701111) are far and away the best bet.

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SEMINYAK

Seminyak may be immediately north of Kuta and Legian, but in many respects it feels like it’s almost on another island. It’s flash, brash, phoney and filled with bony models. It’s also the centre of life for hordes of the island’s expats, many of whom own boutiques or design clothes, surf, or seem to do nothing at all.

It’s also a very dynamic place. It’s home to dozens of restaurants and clubs – when a hot new place opens, it’s usually in Seminyak. Along Jl Raya Seminyak and Jl Laksmana, and the odd side street, there are a wealth of creative shops and galleries, and world-class hotels line the beach. And what a beach it is, as deep and sandy as Kuta’s but less crowded.

A lot of the good and bad about Seminyak seems to be taken from the pages of a glossy magazine, but there are also surprises. Not every beachfront hotel is world-class or charges world-class prices. All those restaurants and clubs combine to give travellers the greatest choice of style and budget in Bali. And sure there are exclusive boutiques, but there are also workshops where you can purchase it all wholesale. And just when you’ve tired of trying to cross the street in front of 4WD-steering expats, a religious procession comes through and shuts everything down. That’s Seminyak: one surprise after another.

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ORIENTATION

The southern border of Seminyak runs north of Jl Arjuna. Jl Raya Seminyak is the continuation of Jl Legian from Kuta and is lined with shops. Jl Abimanyu runs to the beach and passes many bars and restaurants.

Jl Laksmana also heads west to the beach. From here, things get real tricky as the road wanders north through a part of Seminyak that some people call Petitenget, that’s properly called Jl Pantai Kaya Aya, but is also known by its old name: Jl Oberoi. Either way, the road is home to a profusion of restaurants, upscale boutiques and hotels. Meanwhile, as Jl Raya Seminyak continues north it changes to Jl Raya Kerobokan (except where it is known as Jl Petitenget…) and is lined with many craft and furniture showrooms and workshops.

PICK A NAME, ANY NAME

A small lane or alley is known as a gang, and most of them in Bali lack signs or even names. Some are referred to by the name of a connecting street, eg Jl Padma Utara is the gang going north of Jl Padma.

Meanwhile, some streets in Kuta, Legian and Seminyak have more than one name. Many streets are unofficially named after a well-known temple and/or business place, or according to the direction they head. In recent years there has been an attempt to impose official – and usually more Balinese – names on the streets. But the old, unofficial names are still common.

In this guide, all names are shown on the maps and we give preference in the listings to the street name that is most prevalent, eg Jl Arjuna has now surpassed Jl Double Six in common usage. Conversely Poppies Gang II remains just that. Here are the old (unofficial) and new (official) names, from north to south.

See the boxed text, above, for more information on the confusing street names in the region. You’ll find all the sites in this section on the Seminyak Map, unless otherwise indicated.

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INFORMATION

Seminyak shares many services with Kuta and Legian.

Bookshops

Bintang Supermarket has a good newsstand.

• Periplus Bookshop Made’s Warung II (734843; Jl Raya Seminyak) Bali Deli (734578; Jl Kunti) The island-wide chain of lavishly-fitted bookshops has enough design books to have you fitting out even your garage in Bali Style; also stocks best-sellers, magazines and newspapers.

Internet Access

Most hotels have broadband connections for guests, and many cafés offer free wi-fi for patrons as noted in the listings.

Medical Services

• Taiga Pharmacy (732621; Jl Raya Seminyak 19; 24hr) Across from Bintang Supermarket, it has a full range of prescription medications.

Money

ATMs can be found along all the main roads.

Post

• Postal agency (761592; Bintang Supermarket, Jl Raya Seminyak 17)

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SIGHTS

North of the string of hotels on Jl Pantai Kaya Aya, Pura Petitenget is an important temple and the scene of many ceremonies. It is one of a string of sea temples that stretches from Pura Luhur Ulu Watu on the Bukit Peninsula, north to Tanah Lot in western Bali. Petitenget loosely translates as ‘magic box’, a treasured belonging of the legendary 16th-century priest Nirartha, who refined the Balinese religion and visited this site often. Also in the compound, look for Pura Masceti, an agricultural temple where farmers pray for relief from rat infestations and savvy builders make offerings of forgiveness before planting yet another villa in the rice fields.

For tips on respecting traditions and acting appropriately while visiting temples, see the boxed text,. For a directory of important temples, see the boxed text,.

The beach here is a good one and is usually not crowded. There’s plenty of parking (2000Rp).

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ACTIVITIES

Because of the limited road access, the beaches in Seminyak tend to be less crowded than further south in Kuta. This also means that it’s less patrolled and the water conditions are less monitored. The odds of encountering dangerous rip tides and other hazards are ever-present, especially as you head north.

Spas

Jari Menari (736740; Jl Raya Seminyak 47; 10am-9pm) has won international acclaim. Its name means ‘dancing fingers’ and your body will be one happy dance floor. The all-male staff use massage techniques that emphasise rhythm. Fees start at 250,000Rp for 75 minutes.

Spa (730622; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; 10am-9pm) in the Legian hotel is suitably lavish, and gives clients the opportunity to avail themselves of various private spa suites set among gardens.

The name says it all at Chill (734701; Jl Kunti; 10am-10pm). This Zen place embraces reflexology, with treatments starting at 80,000Rp. Its sister property Prana (730840; Jl Kunti) is a palatial Moorish fantasy that is easily the most lavishly decorated spa in Bali. Massages start at 60,000Rp.

Spa Bonita (731918; www.bonitabali.com; Jl Petitenget 2000x; 9am-9pm), part of the delightful Waroeng Bonita, has a range of services in a simply elegant setting. Massages start at 85,000Rp.

Cooking School

Sate Bali (736734; Jl Laksmana 22; course 350,000Rp; 9.30am-1.30pm) runs an excellent Balinese cooking course taught by noted chef Nyoman Sudiyasa. Students learn to prepare Balinese spices and sambals, which are then used to flavour duck, fish and pork. Not up to attending school? The restaurant is delicious Click here.

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SLEEPING

Seminyak has a good range of places to stay, from world-class resorts like the Oberoi to more humble hotels hidden away on backstreets. This is also the start of villa-land, which runs north from here through the vanishing rice fields. For details on booking a private villa, Click here. The opening of the new W Hotel on the beach north of the Legian (due to open September 2009) is sure to cause much excitement.

Budget

Ned’s Hide-Away (731270; [email protected]; Gang Bima 3; r from 100,000Rp) Named after Aussie icon Ned Kelly, this simple, 15-room, two-storey place is popular with those hopingto lie low between bouts of fun. Rooms have hot water and there’s a character-filled bar. Look for the sign on Jl Raya Seminyak north of Bintang Supermarket.

Midrange

Many of Seminyak’s most pleasant hotels are located on small lanes off major roads such as Jl Abimanyu and Jl Laksmana. They are both quiet and close to the action.

Sarinande Beach Inn (730383; www.sarinandehotel.com; Jl Sarinande 15; s/d US$30/32; wi-fi) An excellent-value place. The 24 rooms are in two-storey blocks around a small pool; the decor is older but everything is well maintained. Amenities include fridges, satellite TV and a café. The beach is three minutes by foot.

Harmony (737711; www.theharmonybali.com; Jl Drupadi 234; r 300,000-450,000Rp; ) An architecturally distinctive hotel for the minimalist set. The 20 rooms here carry the theme by being minimalist in size, right down to the school-sized plastic chairs by the door. The colour palette is limited to greys with a splash of red; fortunately, the place you’ll splash out is in the pool.

Raja Gardens (730494; [email protected]; Jl Abimanyu; r 300,000-500,000Rp; wi-fi) Enjoy spacious, grassy grounds in this quiet inn almost on the beach. Rooms are fairly barebones but there are open-air bathrooms and plenty of potted plants. The basic rate gets you cold water and a fan; more money buys hot water, air-con and a fridge.

Green Room (731412; www.thegreenroombali.com; Jl Abimanyu 63B; r 300,000-550,000Rp; ) A new-age cheapie, the Green Room evokes Robinson Crusoe from its hammocks to its banana-tree motif. Lounge around the small inkblot-shaped pool or chill in the open bale (traditional pavilion) with its media centre. Among the 14 rooms in a two-storey block are ones with jungle themes.

Bali Agung Village (730367; www.bali-agung.com; off Jl Abimanyu; r US$40-80, villas US$80-150; ) Off a hidden backstreet, this attractive place has 41 rooms in bungalow-style units that are popular with budget-conscious groups. The grounds are lush and there’s a profusion of Balinese wood and stone carvings. Look for the statue of a giraffe as you navigate in along the alleys.

Villa Kresna (730317; www.villa-kresna.com; Jl Sarinande 19; r US$40-85, villas US$150-220; wi-fi) The beach is only 50m from this cute, idiosyncratic property tucked away on a small gang. The 10 art-filled units are mostly suites, which have a nice flow-through design with both public and private patios. A small, sinuous pool wanders through the property.

Mutiara Bali (708888; www.mutiarabali.com; Jl Karang Mas Sejahtera 88; r US$60-90, villas from US$250; wi-fi) Although hidden on a small road behind Jl Laksmana, the Mutiara is close to everything: fine dining – two minutes; the beach – five minutes, etc. There are 29 good-sized and nicely furnished rooms in two-storey blocks around a frangipani-draped pool area. Seventeen large private villas occupy one half of the compound.

Taman Ayu Cottage (730111; www.tamanayucottage.com; Jl Petitenget; r US$50-80; ) In a fast-growing part of the north end of Seminyak. The cottage in the name here is a bit of a misnomer, as most of the rooms are in two-storey blocks around a pool shaded by mature trees. Clutter-phobes will appreciate the barebones decor in the large rooms.

Grand Balisani Suites (Map; 730550; www.balisani.com; Jl Batubelig; r $80-150; wi-fi) Straddling the border between midrange and top end, this elaborately carved complex is right on the beach, just a few minutes along the sand north of Seminyak. The 97 rooms are large and have amenities such as DVD players and standard teak furniture plus terraces.

Top End

Sofitel Seminyak Bali (730730; www.sofitel.com; Jl Dhyana Pura; r from US$180, villas from US$400; wi-fi) This hotel’s beachside location is good, although the hulking Anantara Resort looms to the south. The rooms are done in a smart contemporary style. What really sets the property apart are the private walled units, which feel like an old Balinese village (try for number 17).

Oberoi (730361; www.oberoihotels.com; Jl Laksmana; r from US$220, villas from US$500; wi-fi) One of the world’s top hotels, the beautifully understated Oberoi has been a refined Balinese-style beachside retreat since 1971. All accommodation has private verandahs and as you move up through the food chain, additional features include private villas, ocean views and private, walled pools. From the café overlooking the almost-private sweep of beach, to the numerous luxuries, this is a place to spoil yourself.

Legian (730622; www.ghmhotels.com; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; ste from US$300, villas from US$600; wi-fi) The Legian is flash and brash, one of the reasons it’s a fave with Russian oil oligarchs. All 67 rooms claim to be suites, even if some are just large rooms (called ‘studios’). On a little bluff, the views are panoramic The design mixes traditional materials with contemporary flair.

TROUBLE BY THE SEA

Opened to much fanfare in 2008, the Anantara Resort (Jl Abimanyu) immediately generated controversy that is a window onto the wider debate about development on the island. Built very close to the high tide, the then-17.2m-tall upscale condo-hotel was built in violation of the local height limit of 15m – a rule designed to keep buildings from being taller than a coconut palm.

After months of threats, the local government finally got the popular rooftop bar, health club and other amenities demolished, effectively lopping a storey off the hotel. This enforcement caught many by surprise because government zoning action in Bali is usually limited to hand-wringing. Many wonder if this will mark a new beginning in efforts to rein in developers.

Villas Bali (730840; www.thevillas.net; Jl Kunti 118X; villas from US$300; wi-fi) Hidden off a Seminyak side street, 50 large one-, two- and three-bedroom villas are clustered in several compounds. All have large pools in private walled gardens. The living space is an open design that blends nature with the classic rattan furniture. Services include breakfast cooked in your unit. The Villas have two spas, including Chill.

Samaya (731149; www.thesamayabali.com; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; villas from US$300; wi-fi) A management shake-up has propelled the beachfront Samaya (until recently a sleeper in Seminyak) to the front ranks. The 24 villas in the beachside compound are attractive, roomy and have small pools. A compound across the road trades location for even larger units. Food, from breakfast onwards, is creative and superb.

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EATING

Jl Laksmana is the focus of Seminyak eating but there are interesting choices virtually everywhere. Note that where indicated, some restaurants morph into clubs as the night wears on. Conversely, some of the places listed under Bars & Clubs also do decent food. Think of it as fusion fun.

Jl Abimanyu

Jef Burgers (0817 473 4311; Jl Dhyana Pura 24; dishes from 13,000Rp; 24hr) Munchies central: Jef cooks up highly customisable burgers around the clock, from a small grill out front.

Zula Vegetarian Paradise (732723; Jl Dhyana Pura 5; dishes 15,000-40,000Rp; 8am-4am) It’s all vegetarian at this newly enlarged café, where you can get tofu cheese, a tofu spring roll and tofu cheesecake. Or go wild with a brown-rice surprise.

Santa Fe Bar & Grill (731147; Jl Dhyana Pura 11A; dishes 20,000-60,000Rp; 7am-4am) Popular pizza and Southwestern food draw people here at all hours, especially late when there’s live music (mostly rock). Many people alternate shots with sushi. Yikes.

Jl Raya Seminyak

Warung Ibu Made (Jl Raya Seminyak; meals 10,000Rp; 7am-7pm) The woks roar almost dawn to dusk amidst the constant hubbub on this busy corner of Jl Raya Seminyak. It’s one of a few simple stalls. The meals from this warung couldn’t be fresher and put to shame some of the Western fakery just down the road.

Café Moka (731424; Jl Raya Seminyak; meals 18,000-40,000Rp; ) Enjoy French-style baked goods at this popular bakery and café. Many escape the heat and linger here for hours. The bulletin board spills over with notices.

Café Seminyak (736967; Jl Raya Seminyak 17; meals from 20,000Rp; wi-fi) Right in front of the busy Bintang Supermarket, this cute and casual place has excellent smoothies and croissant sambos.

Delicious Onion (0813 3789 4243; Jl Raya Seminyak; mains 20,000-25,000Rp) A groovy little café amidst the retail frenzy, the Delicious Onion features a long menu of cheap and cheerful veggie and chicken dishes. There are also cocktails to help you fortify your shopping courage.

Warung Italia (737437; Jl Kunti 2; meals from 20,000Rp; 8am-7pm) The climax in any classic warung happens at lunch, when happy diners walk down the displays and have their plates filled with a wide selection of treats. No matter what they choose, the price is the same (and it’s low). Here, warung-style meets Italian as diners select from a range of pastas, salads and more. You can also order off a long menu.

Made’s Warung II (732130; Jl Raya Seminyak; dishes 20,000-90,000Rp) This northern branch of the Kuta standby is set in a sheltered courtyard area. Well-prepared Indonesian food is the speciality here and the presentation is always artful. Even the little bags of Balinese snack crackers are a delight.

Mannekepis (847 5784; Jl Raya Seminyak 2; mains 35,000-85,000Rp; wi-fi) That little icon of Brussels is permanently peeing out front at this surprisingly good Belgian bistro. Tear your eyes away from the fish swimming in the ceiling tank to peruse a selection of excellent steaks, all served with top-notch frites. There is live jazz and blues many nights.

Jl Laksmana

Saddled by some with the unimaginative name ‘Eat Street’, this restaurant row has scores of choices. Stroll the strip and see what sparks a craving. Prices are uniformly popular.

Ibu Mangku (780 1824; Jl Kayu Jati; meals 15,000Rp) Look for the cabs in front of this bamboo place that serves superb minced-chicken satay redolent with lemongrass and other spices.

Lazumba (731899; Jl Oberoi; dishes 15,000-40,000Rp; wi-fi) More pavilion than restaurant, this coffee bar has good hot and cold drinks (fine smoothies) and a short menu of Indonesian standards. Opt for the sublime chocolate-chip cookies.

Earth Cafe (736645; Jl Laksmana 99; mains from 20,000Rp) The good vibes are organic at this vegetarian café and store amidst the upscale retail squalor of Seminyak. Sweet potato and garbanzo bean soup is a fine lead-in to the creative salads or whole-grain goodies. A retail section sells potions and lotions. While perusing the bookshelves, don’t get ahead of yourself in the colonic irrigation section.

Grocer & Grind (0817 354 104; Jl Kayu Jati 3X; mains 20,000-60,000Rp; wi-fi) Keep your vistas limited and you might think you’re at just another sleek Sydney café, but look around and you’re unmistakably in Bali, albeit one of the trendiest bits. Classic sandwiches, salads and big breakfasts issue forth from the open kitchen. Eat in the open-air or choose air-con tables in the deli area.

Corner Store (730276; Jl Laksmana 10A; dishes 30,000-60,000Rp; 7am-5pm) Seminyak’s fashionistas gather here most mornings (aka Tuck Shop to the expats) to dish the gossip and breakfast on upscale, healthy fare like organic muesli. Tell everyone you’re a ‘cushion designer’ and look bored under the beautiful frangipani tree.

Café Bali (736484; Jl Laksmana; mains 30,000-60,000Rp) The smoothly curved bar feels right out of colonial times here, as does the light and airy wood interior with fans gently moving the air. But this popular café is really just a fantasy come true. It’s a recent addition to ‘Eat Street’. Diners enjoy a varied menu that fuses Asian and Italian influences with a fresh vibe. The dessert list is long.

Tuesday Night Pizza Club (730614; www.tuesdaynightpizzaclub.com; Jl Oberoi; pizza 30,000-130,000Rp; 6pm-midnight) Pizzas come in five sizes at this brightly lit joint and have a range of pop culture names like Hawaii Five-O (ham and pineapple). There are but a few tables – many folks opt for the fast and efficient delivery to hotels and villas alike.

Rumours (738720; Jl Oberoi 100; mains 30,000-125,000Rp; 6pm-midnight) Italian and Indonesian standards are mere supporting cast members for the real menu stars: steaks. There’s a range of cuts and preparations, topping out at the 500g T-bone. Terrace tables (t-tables?) are tops.

Ultimo (738720; Jl Laksmana 104; mains 30,000-100,000Rp) Uno: find a table overlooking the street action or out back in one of the gardens. Due: choose from the surprisingly authentic Italian menu. Tre: marvel at the efficient service from the army of servers. Quattro: smile at the reasonable bill.

Trattoria (737082; Jl Oberoi; mains 35,000-90,000Rp; 6pm-midnight) Enjoy authentic Italian cuisine at tables inside or out. The menu changes often but always features fresh pasta, grilled meats and seafood. Even the breadsticks – as plentiful as the lines of waiting patrons – score.

Sate Bali (736734; Jl Oberoi 22; mains from 40,000Rp; 11am-10pm) Some very fine traditional Balinese dishes are served at this small café run by chef Nyoman Sudiyasa. The multi-course rijsttafel (200,000Rp) is a symphony of tastes including the addictive babi kecap (pork in a soy sauce) and tum bebek (minced duck in banana leaf).

La Lucciola (730838; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; dishes 80,000-160,000Rp) This beachside restaurant is near the temple and secluded on all sides but the one that counts: the ocean. Stylish sunset-watchers enjoy good views from the 2nd floor across a lovely lawn to the surf. The menu is a creative fusion of international fare; the bar inventive.

Northern Seminyak

Some of Bali’s most interesting restaurants are found amidst the curving roads and villas here.

Warung Kolega (0852 3794 9778; Jl Petitenget; meal 15,000Rp 11am-3pm) A Javanese classic: choose your rice (we prefer the fragrant yellow), then choose from a delectable array that includes tempe in sweet chilli sauce, sambal terung (spicy eggplant), ikan sambal (spicy grilled fish) and other daily specials.

Bali Catering Co (732115; Jl Petitenget 45; snacks from 20,000Rp; ) Like a gem store of treats, this upscale deli-bakery is owned by top-end fave Kafe Warisan (right). Many spend all day battling the temptation of the mango ice cream, others succumb to the croissants.

Le Tebu (847 8152; Jl Petitenget 40x; mains 25,000-55,000Rp; wi-fi) Seminyak always surprises with its cultural fusion and this little corner café is a perfect example. Think Left Bank meets Bali and you’ve got the concept. Lovely wicker chairs surround shady tables within incense-sniffing distance of Pura Petitenget. The menu features coq au vin, croque monsieur and healthy breakfasts and salads. But just when you’re ready for some attitude, the smiling service reminds you you’re in Bali.

Waroeng Bonita (731918; www.bonitabali.com; Jl Petitenget 2000x; dishes 30,000-70,000Rp) Balinese dishes such as ikan rica-rica (fresh fish in a spicy green chilli sauce) and the classic, spicy beef rendang are the specialities here. Nab a table under the trees, unless it’s Baliwood night when the staff are dragooned into performing with drag queens in an unmissable and flamboyant spectacle.

Dodos Café (732392; Jl Petitenget 125; mains US$3-10; 8am-4pm) Ladies who lunch (and men too) sit primly on delicate French chairs here and gaze out at Seminyak’s number-one endangered species: rice terraces. Although there are a few breakfast items on the menu, Dodos is all about long, Italian-accented lunches. A salad bar, plenty of sandwiches and a kids’ menu round out the offerings.

Living Room (735735; www.livingroombali.com; Jl Petitenget; mains 80,000-100,000Rp; noon-late) At night, hundreds of candles twinkle on and about the scores of outdoor tables at this fusion of Balinese thatching with colonial posh. The fusion menu combines French classics with Asian flair – think Saigon before things went pear-shaped. The famous soundtrack? Fusion of course (house, jazz and trance).

Sarong (737809; www.sarongbali.com; Jl Petitenget 19X; mains US$5-10; noon-10pm) The food is almost as magical as the setting at this top-end, high-concept restaurant. Largely open to the evening breezes, the dining room has plush furniture and gleaming place-settings that twinkle in the candlelight. Opt for tables out back where you can let the stars do the twinkling. The food spans the globe – small plates are popular for an evening spent enjoying the commodious bar.

Kafe Warisan (731175; www.kafewarisan.com; Jl Raya Kerobokan; set dinner menus US$25-40; noon-2pm Mon-Sat, 5-10pm daily) Chef Nicolas Tourneville gives fine French cooking a Mediterranean flair in a deceptively simple setting overlooking rice fields. The changing menu reflects what’s in season locally, but it always features signature dishes such as duck confit tartare. Set menus allow the kitchen to show its expertise. Desserts include sublime house-made ice creams.

Blossom (735552; www.balisentosa.com; Sentosa Private Villas & Spa, Jl Pura Telaga Waja; meals from US$30) Arguably Bali’s finest restaurant, Blossom is certainly one of the most captivating. Occupying much of the ground level of the ultra-posh Sentosa Villas, the restaurant has widely spaced tables in an elegant open-air space overlooking smoothly-flowing water features. Pretty much everything else here flows smoothly, including the drinks from the long bar and dishes from the vaunted kitchen. The menu changes often but is always global in outlook and creative in execution.

Self-Catering

Bali Deli (738686; Jl Kunti 117X; wi-fi) The lavish deli counter at this upscale market is loaded with imported cheese, meats and baked goods. This is the place to start a special meal. The breezy café also has a good, fresh menu.

Bintang Supermarket (730552; Jl Raya Seminyak 17) Always busy, this large supermarket is the stock-up favourite among expats (although Carrefour is tough competition).

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ENTERTAINMENT

Bars & Clubs

Like your vision at 2am, the division between restaurant, bar and club blurs in Seminyak. For instance, Living Room and Sarong (left) have large and inviting bars that fill with people who never take a crack at a menu. Meanwhile, Ku De Ta and Hu’u Click here serve good food to the partying masses. Although Seminyak lacks any real hardcore clubs where you can greet the dawn (or vice versa), stalwarts can head south to the rough edges of Kuta in the wee hours.

JL ABIMANYU

Numerous bars line Jl Abimanyu (aka Dhyana Pura), although noise-sensitive locals complain if things get too raucous.

Bahiana (738662; Jl Abimanyu 4; 5pm-late) Rum flows almost as freely as the moves on the dance floor at this salsa-themed club. Live music alternates with DJs; there are salsa lessons many nights.

Obsession (730269; Jl Abimanyu; 6pm-2am) Fear not, the ‘global music’ at this rather intimate venue isn’t reggae. Latin, blues, soul and more get feet tapping through the night.

Q-Bar (762361; Jl Abimanyu; 8pm-3am) This bright and always-popular bar caters to gay clubbers. The music of choice is house. There are good views of the action – inside and out –from the upper floor.

JL LAKSMANA

Hu’u (736443; www.huubali.com; Jl Pantai Kaya Aya; 4pm-late) There’s a menu someplace, but really, this spot is all about air-kissing, seeing and making the scene, an enchanting outdoor garden and pavilion. Action peaks around midnight before the club exodus begins.

Ku De Ta (736969; www.kudeta.net; Jl Laksmana; 7am-1am) Ka Lee Shay? Hardly an article gets written about Bali that doesn’t mention this beachside lounge, heaving with Bali’s beautiful and their attendant scenesters. Perfect your ‘bored’ look over drinks, although the gorgeous sunsets shine through many a sneer.

Metro (736280; Jl Laksmana 52; 11am-11pm) The only designer wear you’ll find here has a swoosh or three stripes, and it’s on the big-screen TVs. On a street that often seems ready to choke on its own style, this genial sports bar has a full line-up of Aussie sports nabbed off satellites by a set-up worthy of Parkes tracking station.

Zappaz (7425534; Jl Laksmana; 11am-midnight) Brit Norman Findlay tickles the ivories nightly at this popular piano bar (although critics might call that tickle an attack). The most enjoyable part of this performance is his enthusiastic patter with the crowd.

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SHOPPING

Seminyak shops could occupy days of your holiday. Designer boutiques (Bali has a thriving fashion industry), funky stores, slick galleries, wholesale emporiums and family-run workshops are just some of the choices.

The action picks up in the south from Kuta and Legian and heads north along Jl Legian and Jl Raya Seminyak (there’s no exact demarcation between the two and some people call parts of the latter Jl Raya Basangkasa…). The retail strip branches off into the prime real estate of Jl Laksmana while continuing north on Jl Raya Kerobokan into Kerobokan itself Click here. Of course, this being Bali, try not to get too overwhelmed by the glitz or you’ll step into one of the yawning pavement caverns.

If you need help navigating this retail paradise, check out the Retail Therapy column in the Bali Advertiser (www.baliadvertiser.biz). It’s written by the singularly named Marilyn ([email protected]) who brings a veteran retailer’s keen eye to the local scene. For advanced studies, she’s available for consultations.

Accessories

Sabbatha (731756; Jl Raya Seminyak 97) Mega-bling! The glitter, glam and gold here are almost blinding and that’s just what customers want. Opulent handbags and other sun-reflecting accessories are displayed like so much king’s ransom.

Zakx (736653; Jl Laksmana 49) Zakx is a shoe-fetishist’s fantasy from the bottom of the stiletto heels to the tips of the leather laces.

Beachwear

Blue Glue (844 5956; Jl Raya Seminyak) Has a collection of Bali-made bathing suits from teensy to trendy.

Body & Soul (733564; Jl Raya Seminyak) The flagship store in Bali for the Australian chain of beachy, cottony clothes. Many of the items here are Bali-made. Across the street, an outlet store (733011; Jl Raya Seminyak 16C) has hot deals on cool clothes.

Clothing

Bamboo Blonde (780 5919; Jl Laksmana 61) Frilly, sporty or sexy frocks and more formal wear tempt from this cheery designer boutique.

Bananas Batik (730938; www.bananasbatik.com; Jl Raya Seminyak) Flouncy clothes for women that you don’t have to travel to the source for –the exquisite duds are made at Pondok Pisang, a small inn on the ocean near Candidasa. The batik is very finely made and the muted colours keep everything classy.

Biasa (730308; www.biasabali.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 36) This is Bali-based designer Susanna Perini’s premier store. Her line of tropical wear for men and women combines cottons, silks and embroidery. Ex-husband Paul Ropp has a small shop across the street.

Copycat (0812 385 0480; Jl Raya Seminyak 40) As the name implies, these breezy linen clothes are knock-offs of pricier designs. The spunky attitude extends to its best-selling T-shirt: ‘Who the fuck is Prada?’.

Divine Diva (731903; Jl Oberoi 1A) Bali-made breezy styles for fuller female figures. A friend calls it: ‘the essense of agelessness’.

ET Club (730902; Jl Raya Seminyak 14A) Out-of-this-world prices on designer knock-offs and bohemian bags, belts, shoes and clothes.

Inti (733664; Jl Raya Seminyak 11) Shoppers tired of pawing through racks of size 2 clothes will sigh with relief at this shop filled with resortwear aimed at mature women who have something to show for their years of good living.

Joe Joe (732678; Jl Raya Seminyak 43) Sequin-encrusted bags and purses glitter in the lights here. Styles range from vintage to far-out. In one word: bling!

Lily Jean (734864; Jl Oberoi 102X) Saucy knickers underpin sexy women’s clothing that both dares and flirts; most is Bali-made.

Milo’s Bazaar (735551; www.milos-bali.com; Jl Laksmana 38) The legendary local designer of silk finery has followed the hordes to designer row. Look for batik bearing eye-poppingorchid patterns.

Morena (745 3531; Jl Oberoi 69) Puerto Rican-born Wilma sells her line of sexy, flouncy, comfy and colourful women’s clothes here.

Paul Ropp (734208; www.paulropp.com; Jl Oberoi) Elegant main store for one of Bali’s premier high-end fashion designers. Rich silks and cottons, vivid to the point of gaudy, effervesce with hints of the tie-dyed ’60s.

Sacado (730605; Jl Raya Seminyak) Your crazy kid will be a cool kid with the bright and cheery duds from this designer boutique.

Uma and Leopold (733670; www.umaandleopold.com; Jl Kunti 8x) Luxe clothes and little frilly things to put on before slipping off…

Galleries

Biasa Art Space (744 2902; www.biasaart.com; Jl Raya Seminyak 34) This large, airy and chilly gallery is owned by Biasa designer Susanna Perini. Changing exhibits highlight bold works.

Kemarin Hari Ini (735262; Jl Raya Basangkasa) Glass objects created with laminated Japanese paper sparkle in the light at this airy gallery. Primative works mix with the starkly modern.

Richard Meyer Culture (744 5179; Jl Petitenget 200X) This gallery sells photos and artworks by renowned contemporary Bali artists. It’s been lauded for its conservation and historical collection.

Housewares

Ashitaba (737054; Jl Raya Seminyak 6) Tenganan, the Aga village of East Bali, produces the intricate and beautiful rattan items sold here. Containers, bowls, purses and more (from US$5) display the very fine weaving.

DeZine Hammocks (742 2379; Jl Raya Seminyak) Talk about a gift that keeps on giving, let alone swaying. Choose from a rainbow of in-stock hammocks in a multitude of sizes. Or have one custom-made to your exact size using the fabric of your dreams (trust us, you’ll be dreaming once you hop aboard). Total cost for the one-day service: about US$20.

Goris Art Shop (0859 3507 8570; Jl Laksmana) Acacia wood is carved into primitive creations at this shop that looks like something in a jungle clearing. A throne worthy of a royal caveman goes for 2.5 million rupiah.

Heliconia (732700; Jl Raya Seminyak) Stunning and exotic floral arrangements out of a Mapplethorpe album – who knew you could do that with a baby pineapple?

Nôblis (0815 5800 2815; Jl Raya Mertanadi 54) Feel like royalty here with everything from knock-offs of items from the various French Louis’s, to regal bits of decor from around the globe.

Nostalgia Antique (735192; Jl Mertanadi 60) Wander off the road to this dusty and atmospheric collection of primitive creations from the island of Madura off the coast of Java.

Rama Shinta Ki Jay (0812 360 6979; Jl Raya Seminyak 70) Dedicated to all things incense, this shop is a party for your nose. Sniff out the fun in the sandalwood section.

You Like Lamp (733755; Jl Raya Mertanadi) Why yes, we do. All manner of endearing little paper lamps – many good for tea lights – are sold here cheap by the bag full. Don’t see what you want? The staff working away on the floor will rustle it up immediately.

Jewellery

Luna Collection (0811 398 909; Jl Raya Seminyak) Handmade sterling silver jewellery in a range of designs. The local craftsmen are quite creative and the mother-of-pearl works are museum quality.

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GETTING THERE & AROUND

Most transport information is the same as for Kuta. Metered taxis are easily hailed. A trip from the airport in an official airport taxi costs 60,000Rp, to the airport about half that. A taxi to the heart of Kuta will be about 15,000Rp. You can beat the traffic, save the ozone and have a good stroll by walking south down the beach. Legian is about 15 minutes away.

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NORTH OF SEMINYAK

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Growth is marching north and west along the coast, much of it anchored by the endless swath of beach. Kerobokan is morphing into Seminyak; cloistered villas here lure the well-heeled who whisk past stooped rice farmers in their air-con comfort. Traffic may be the ultimate commoner’s revenge: road-building is a decade or two behind settlement.

Small roads lead off the main clogged artery that runs to Pura Tanah Lot. Use these to reach beaches at Berewa, Canggu, Echo Beach (Batu Mejan) and Pererenan Beach. These are uncrowded and wild, with pounding surf, perilous swimming and sweeping views to the south. An ever-growing number of tiny lanes thread through the rice fields and villas allowing you to link up the beaches without venturing to the Tanah Lot road. Along the grey-sand beach, it is only 4.5km from Pura Petitenget to Echo Beach, although a couple of rivers may impede your stroll.

Getting to most of the places below is only convenient with your own transport or by taxi. Think 25,000Rp or more from Kuta, 15,000Rp from Seminyak.

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KEROBOKAN

The next area north of Seminyak is seamlessly blending with the south. There’s a lot of upscale development here – villas jut from the ground like pustules on an adolescent. At times the mix of commerce and rice fields can be jarring. One notable landmark is the Kerobokan jail, home to Schapelle Corby and other prisoners both notable and humble.

Activities

Umalas Stables (Map; 731402; www.balionhorse.com; Jl Lestari 9X), 5km north of Seminyak, has a stable of 30 horses and ponies and offers 30-minute rice-field rides for US$20, and very popular two-/three-hour beach rides for US$60/85. Lessons in beginner to advanced equestrian events such as dressage and showjumping can also be arranged.

Sleeping

Sorting through the myriad villa options is best done with the help of an agent; Click here for details.

Eating

Kerabokan is still spread out enough that there’s no real strip of places to eat. But you’ll find some worthy choices scattered about. At the corner of Jl Raya Kerobokan and Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu, there’s a scrumptious little fruit market (Map) where you can do your lab work in Bali fruits and veg 101.

Depot Organic (Map; Jl Pengubengan Kauh; lunch 10,000Rp; 11am-3pm) In a compound of offices for local environmental groups, this warung is as unadorned as the leaves of its lettuce. Enjoy simple foods prepared with high-quality and sustainable coconut oil at benches under a palm tree.

Warung Gossip (Map; 0817 970 3209; Jl Pengubengan Kauh; meals from 20,000Rp; noon-4pm) Always popular thanks to its Westernised versions of Balinese warung staples. Get a plate, tell the staff what you’d like and you’ll soon be enjoying a fine lunch at one of the shady tables. There’s also a café area for more formal dining. It is about 1km north of the jail.

Panoramix (Map; 788 4140; Jl Batu Belig 2; 5-11pm) Feast on hearty country French fare like roast pig or various steaks and chops. Or go for local seafood accented with classic sauces like a flaming cognac. The kitchen never stops surprising and the food may actually draw your eyes away from the splendid rice-terrace views. Although preparations are just so, everything else at this rustic spot is tres casual.

Shopping

Buy ‘em by the kilo at JJ Bali Button (Map; 730001; Jl Gunung Tangkuban Perahu). Zillions of beads and buttons made from shells, plastic, metal and more are displayed in what first looks like a candy store (and it is for creative types).

SO YOU WANT TO LIVE IN BALI?

Numbers are fuzzy, but it’s estimated that anywhere from 7000 to 30,000 people from other countries live more-or-less full-time in Bali. They come for the same reasons as many visitors (sun, surf, sex) or for more tangible reasons (culture, love, job) or just because it’s really cheap (‘A gardener, maid and driver for US$200 a month? Where’s my ticket?!?’).

You see them all over the south and Ubud and even scattered about the east, the north and the west; deeply tanned expats going – or not going – about their business every day. There’s simply no way to generalise what they do, although the image of the Westerner idling away afternoons with US$1 Bintangs is common.

‘You work?!?’ That’s the number one reaction Nicoline Dolman gets when she meets people and tells them she not only lives in Bali but also works there (as director of sales for the Villas resort in Seminyak). ‘People think I must be lounging by the pool all the time,’ says Dolman, who came to Bali on a tourism internship, fell in love with the place and never left.

‘I get paid in local wages, so you bet I work.’

Ashley Bickerton, the renowned American artist, has discovered rare qualities in Bali. ‘There are places on this planet that have kinetic electricity and there are those that don’t. Bali has it in spades. Like the great oceanic washes of opposing currents and upswellings that create nutrient-rich banks, Bali is ablaze with conflicting currents; edge is everywhere.’

Both Bickerton and Dolman, however, are not universal in their regard for all things expat.

‘The rampant greed and short-sightedness running amok in Bali today threatens to strangle the very things that drew people here in the first place,’ says Bickerton, while Dolman says she gets tired of idlers with attitudes out of tune with the local vibe. ‘You meet someone and they say with a smirk, “I’m a fashion designer, you?”’

Still, neither would leave their life in Bali. ‘Every time a long-term expat starts grumbling about moving on, they are invariably stumped by the same question: “Where?”,’ says Bickerton, or as Dolman says, ‘Other qualities aside, you’ve got a glass of beer, you’re in the sun by that pool, why leave?’

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BEREWA

The greyish beach, secluded among rice fields and villas, is about 2km up the sand from Seminyak and about 10km by roundabout lanes. There are a couple of surfer cafés by the pounding surf. The grey, volcanic sand here slopes steeply into the foaming waters.

Bali’s monied elite shuttlecock themselves silly at the Canggu Club (Map; 844 6385; www.cangguclub.com; Jl Pantai Berawa; daypass adult/family US$30/65), a new-age version of something you’d expect to find during the Raj. The vast, perfectly virescent lawn is manicured for croquet. Get sweaty with tennis, squash, polo, cricket, the spa or the 25m pool.

At the well-run 40-room Legong Keraton (Map; 730280; www.legongkeratonhotel.com; Berewa Beach; r US$60-140; ), right on the deserted sands of Berewa, the meeting rooms are the perfect place for a secret corporate retreat to work out the next redundancy scheme. The grounds are shaded by palms and the pool borders the beach. The best rooms are in bungalow units facing the surf.

One person described Desa Seni (Map; 844 6392; www.desaseni.com; Jl Kayu Putih 13; r US$150-300; wi-fi) as like a ‘hippie Four Seasons’, and that’s not far off. Desa Deni bills itself as a ‘village resort’ and what a village it is. Classic wooden homes have been brought to the site from across Indonesia and turned into luxurious quarters (LCD TVs, DVD players etc). Guests enjoy a menu of organic and healthy cuisine while pondering which yoga class, spa session or cultural event to sign up for.

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CANGGU

A popular surf spot, Canggu draws a lot of locals and expat residents at weekends. Access to the paved parking area costs 2000Rp and there are cafés and warung for those who work up an appetite in the water or watching others in the water.

Right at Canggu Beach, Hotel Tugu Bali (Map; 731701; www.tuguhotels.com; Jl Pantai Batu Bolong, Desa Canggu; r US$200-500; wi-fi) is an exquisite hotel surrounded by rice fields and beach. It blurs the boundaries between a museum and gallery, especially the Walter Spies and Le Mayeur Pavilions, where memorabilia from the artists’ lives decorates the rooms. The stunning collection of antiques and artwork begins in the lobby and extends throughout the hotel. There’s a spa and numerous customised dining options. Even by day, candles twinkle amidst the flowing fabrics in the breezy public areas.

To get to Canggu, go west at Kerobokan and south at Kayutulang. Taxis from Kuta will cost 40,000Rp or more.

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ECHO BEACH

Just 500m northwest of Canggu Beach is Echo Beach, or Batu Mejan. It has reached critical mass in popularity and has become its own scene. Shops are moving in and the burgeoning number of cafés includes Mandira Cafe (Map; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; dishes 8000-15,000Rp), which has a timeless menu of jaffles, banana pancakes, club sandwiches and smoothies.

Slicker yet, the Beach House (Map; 738471; Jl Pura Batu Mejan; dishes 30,000-80,000Rp; wi-fi) faces the waves and draws stylish loungers. It has a variety of couches and picnic tables where you can hang out, watch the waves and enjoy the menu of breakfasts, salads, grilled fare and ambitious dishes such as calamari with aioli.

On Sunday afternoons Echo Beach literally rocks with local musicians jamming to one big party.

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PERERENAN BEACH

Yet to be found by the right developer, this is the beach if you want your sand windswept and your waves unridden. It’s 300m further on from Echo Beach by sand, over 1km by road.

Once you’ve found it, why leave? The friendly guys at Pondok Wisata Nyoman (Map; 0812 390 6900; Jl Raya Pantai Pererenan; r 120,000Rp) have four simple rooms (although the bathrooms have a certain colourful flair) just behind the beach. There’s a tiny café nearby and that’s it.

South Bali

   HISTORY
BUKIT PENINSULA
   JIMBARAN
   CENTRAL BUKIT
   BALANGAN BEACH
   PECATU INDAH
   BINGIN
   ULU WATU & AROUND
   NUSA DUA
   TANJUNG BENOA
SANUR
   HISTORY
   ORIENTATION
   INFORMATION
   SIGHTS
   ACTIVITIES
   SLEEPING
   EATING
   DRINKING
   SHOPPING
   GETTING THERE & AWAY
   GETTING AROUND
SOUTH OF SANUR
   PULAU SERANGAN
   MANGROVE INFORMATION CENTRE
   BENOA HARBOUR
NUSA LEMBONGAN & ISLANDS
   NUSA LEMBONGAN
   NUSA CENINGAN
   NUSA PENIDA
DENPASAR
   HISTORY
   ORIENTATION
   INFORMATION
   SIGHTS
   ACTIVITIES
   WALKING TOUR
   FESTIVALS & EVENTS
   SLEEPING
   EATING
   SHOPPING
   GETTING THERE & AWAY
   GETTING AROUND

You could spend your entire trip in South Bali and still not see everything. Ignoring the massive tourism hub of Kuta and Seminyak, this vast region is both the home of most Balinese and the place where most visitors spend at least some of their time.

The ocean is never far away, especially on the Bukit Peninsula, which hangs below the island like a silky cocoon. In Jimbaran several luxurious hotels are a counterpoint to wildly popular beachside seafood grills. Some of the world’s best surf breaks are found along the coast leading to Ulu Watu. This idiosyncratic area has a delightful collection of cliffside places to stay. Across the peninsula, the gated development of Nusa Dua attracts well-heeled package tourists to its cloistered calm. Just north, Tanjung Benoa offers watery frolics on the reef-protected seas.

Sanur is the genteel place where tourism in Bali began. It has an alluring beachfront walkway with fine views across Selat Badung (Badung Strait) to the islands, which include Nusa Lembongan. Many journey out to this small island to find a Bali locked in a simpler time, and to enjoy great diving, fine surfing or simply doing nothing at all. Nearby Nusa Penida proves that you can still have a remote tropical adventure even in ever-more-popular Bali.

Denpasar, the capital, has museums, parks and intriguing markets. But its real highlights are the many warung (food stalls), cafés and restaurants found along its streets and alleys, many serving some of the best local food on the island.

HIGHLIGHTS

• Picking a lobster for the grill at a seafood joint in Jimbaran Click here
• Watching from Sanur Click here as a full moon climbs over Nusa Penida
• Staying at a characterful inn while watching the surf breaks in and around Ulu Watu Click here
• Finding your own inner peace amid the serenity of Nusa Lembongan Click here
• Savouring in Denpasar Click here the best US$1 meal you’ve ever had

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HISTORY

Following the bloody defeat of the three princes of the kingdom of Badung in 1906, the Dutch administration was relatively benign, and southern Bali was little affected until a fateful day in 1936 when Californians Bob and Louise Koke opened their idea of a little tropical resort on then-deserted Kuta Beach.

Mass tourism took off – or landed – in 1969 when Ngurah Rai international airport opened. The first planned tourist resort was conceived in the early 1970s by ‘experts’ working for the UN and the World Bank. As luxury hotels were built at Nusa Dua, unplanned development raced ahead from Kuta to Legian. People made the most of their opportunities, and small-scale, low-budget businesses were set up with limited local resources.

At first, tourism development was confined only to designated areas such as Kuta, Sanur and Nusa Dua, but the boom of the 1990s saw it spreading north and south of Kuta, extending beyond Jimbaran Bay and north of Nusa Dua to Tanjung Benoa. All the while, real-estate speculators grabbed prime coastal spots around the Bukit Peninsula and north along the beach from Seminyak.

The annual cycle of more visitors bringing more money was disrupted in the new millennium by the seemingly never-ending series of terrorist attacks, natural disasters elsewhere in Indonesia, various economic crises and other unsettling events that persuaded many visitors to stay home.

Pain was felt throughout tourist-dependent South Bali; slowly but surely, though, visitors returned, development continued on parts of the Bukit Peninsula and Nusa Lembongan, and somehow the traffic – which never got better – got worse.

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BUKIT PENINSULA

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Hot and arid, the southern peninsula is known as Bukit (bukit means ‘hill’ in Bahasa Indonesia). It’s the centre of much tourism in Bali, from booming Jimbaran to the cloistered climes of Nusa Dua. The rugged west coast running down to the important temple of Ulu Watu fronts some of the best surfing in the world. Little coves anchor an increasing number of hotels at places such as Balangan and Bingin.

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JIMBARAN

Just south of Kuta and the airport, Teluk Jimbaran (Jimbaran Bay) is an alluring crescent of white sand and blue sea, fronted by a long string of seafood warung (food stalls) and ending at the southern end in a bushy headland, home to the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. Despite its many charms (eg great markets), it has always been a snoozy sort of place. And that is perfectly fine for many visitors, who enjoy the proximity to the bright lights of Kuta and Seminyak but savour the calm here.

But that’s changing. Jimbaran is on the map, as it were. Long-running budget hotels by the water have vanished and fences are going up around construction sites for glam condos and villas. Whether this means a more frenetic future remains to be seen. Maybe Jimbaran will get its first real bar?

Facilities are limited. Jl Raya Ulu Watu has some small markets and Jl Ulu Watu II has ATMs and mini-markets. For most things head to Kuta. Expect to pay 2000Rp for vehicles to reach the beach.

Sights & Activities

The temple Pura Ulun Siwi (Map) dates from the 18th century. It is different from other Balinese temples in that it faces east, rather than north to Gunung Agung. It’s thought this is because the site dates back to the 11th century when Java’s Mt Semeru was still the focus of local piety. Look for farmers collecting water here to bless their fields: it’s thought the anti-rodent powers are especially strong.

Across from the temple, the produce market (Map; Jl Ulu Watu; 5am-2pm) is small but has one of Bali’s best selections of fruit and veg. Many savvy top-end chefs do their shopping here, and farmers from across the island know to bring their best or most unusual items here.

Another highlight is the smelly, lively and frenetic open-air fish market (Map). Boats land with their haul and the deal-making, selling and transporting is manic. Watch out for porters carting impossible loads barefoot through the muck. The earlier you arrive at both markets, the better.

Out on the water, Jimbaran is a good place to access the surf breaks off the airport.

The Ganeesha Gallery (Map) at the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay has exhibitions by international artists and is worth a visit – walk south along the beach.

Sleeping

Some of South Bali’s most luxurious resorts are found in and around Jimbaran, as well as a few midrange places off the beach. Most offer some form of shuttle through the day to Kuta and beyond. Watch for offers from new beachside resorts.

MIDRANGE

Hotel Puri Bambu (Map; 701377; www.puribambu.com; r US$35-90; ) A mere 200m from the beach, the flash-free Puri Bambu is an older but well-run and good-value option. The 48 standard rooms (some with tubs) are in three-storey blocks around a large pool.

Udayana Eco Lodge (Map; 7474204; www.ecolodgesindonesia.com; r 550,000-800,000Rp; wi-fi) Inland near Udayana University, this lodge has grand views over South Bali from its perch on a knoll in 70 hectares of bushland. The 10 rooms are comfortable and there is an inviting common area with an excellent library. Much effort has been made to preserve and reuse water.

Puri Kosala (Map; 701673; www.purikosala.com; Jl Yoga Perkanti 2; villas US$90-200; ) This secluded property makes for a good getaway. The six cottages have elaborate traditional Balinese details and simple bathrooms with tubs. Although it’s close to the beach and has a large pool and manicured gardens, it does not have a top-end level of service, so get a deal.

TOP END

At this price level, check for special offers during slack periods.

Jimbaran Puri Bali (Map; 701605; www.jimbaranpuribali.com; Jl Yoga Perkanti; cottages US$150-400; ) Reborn under the tutelage of Orient-Express Resorts, this beachside resort is set in nice grounds complete with a mazelike pool that looks onto open ocean. The 41 cottages have private gardens, large terraces and stylish room design with sunken tubs.

Hotel Intercontinental Bali (Map; 701888; www.bali.intercontinental.com; Jl Ulu Watu; r from US$200; wi-fi) With 419 rooms, the Inter-continental is really a little city on the beach. Decorated with Balinese arts and handicrafts, it tries to meld local style to a huge resort. The plethora of pools feed each other and meander through the grounds. There is a good kids’ club and the crescent of beach is fine.

Ritz Carlton (Map; 702222; www.ritzcarlton.com; r US$300-450, villas US$500-950; wi-fi) Hidden in vast private grounds 3km southwest of Jimbaran, the Ritz-Carlton surveys the sea from its isolated cliff-top spot. The 290 rooms are spacious and set in large blocks. Villas offer the ultimate for people who want a grand resort experience. Nearby, the Ritz jealously guards its own gem of a beach. Note that legal issues may cause the Ritz to change its name and management.

Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay (Map; 701010; www.fourseasons.com; villas from US$700; wi-fi) The 147 villas here are designed in a traditional Balinese manner complete with a carved entranceway, which opens onto an open-air dining pavilion overlooking a water-sucking plunge pool. The spa is guests-only, which maintains the very exclusive air. The site is a hillside overlooking Jimbaran Beach, which is a very short walk away.

Eating

The warung are the destination of tourists across the south. Jimbaran’s three groups of seafood warung do fresh barbecued seafood every evening (and lunch at many). The open-sided affairs are right by the beach and perfect for enjoying sea breezes and sunsets. Tables and chairs are set up on the sand almost to the water’s edge.

The usual deal is to select your seafood fresh from iced displays or tanks, and to pay according to weight. Expect to pay around 40,000Rp per 100g for live lobster, 15,000Rp to 25,000Rp for prawns, and 9000Rp for fish, squid and clams. Prices are open to negotiation and the accuracy of the scales is a joke among locals. Agree to a price before ordering. Some places simplify things with fixed menu prices.

The best kitchens marinate the fish in garlic and lime, then douse it with chilli and oil while grilling over coconut husks. Thick clouds of smoke from the coals are part of the atmosphere, as are roaming bands, who perform tunes from the ‘Macarena’ playlist. Many people actually join in.

NORTHERN SEAFOOD WARUNG

The longest row of warung is at the northern seafood warung, south of the fish market. This is the area you will be taken to by a taxi if you don’t specify otherwise. Most of these places are restaurant-like with tables inside and out on the immaculate raked sand. Call for free transport to/from much of the south. Recommendations:

• Fortuin Café (Map; Jl Pantai Kedonganan) How fortuitous, the name means ‘the chosen’.
• Ganesha Pudak Cafe (Map; 0813 3855 3800; Jl Pantai Kedonganan) Many fish displays.
• Roman Café (Map; Jl Pantai Kedonganan) Takes credit cards.

MIDDLE SEAFOOD WARUNG

The middle seafood warung are in a compact group just south of Jl Pantai Jimbaran and Jl Pemelisan Agung. These seafood warung are the simplest affairs, with old-fashioned thatched roofs and wide-open sides. The beach is a little less manicured, with the fishing boats resting up on the sand. Don’t plan on getting any public transport out here. Warung recommendations:

New Langsam Café (Map; 703170; Jl Pantai Jimbaran)

Warung Bamboo (Map; 702188; off Jl Pantai Jimbaran)

SOUTHERN SEAFOOD WARUNG

The southern seafood warung are just north of the Four Seasons Jimbaran Bay. In many ways the warung are like the Three Bears: this group – not as formal as the northern group, not as rickety as the middle group – is just right. There’s a parking area off Jl Bukit Permai and the places are right in a row. The beach here is well groomed with nice trees. Call for transport. Recommendations:

• Roma (Map; 702387; off Jl Bukit Permai) Redolent with garlic.
• Teba Cafe (Map;0817 346 068; off Jl Bukit Permai) Lots of special platters and a local fave.

Right on the beaches the luxury hotels have cafés and restaurants, which afford beautiful views of the surf, sea and sunset.

Shopping

Jenggala Keramik Bali (Map; 703310; www.jenggala-bali.com; Jl Ulu Watu II; 9am-6pm) A modern air-con showroom displays beautiful ceramic homewares. It has a viewing area where you can watch production, and a café. Ceramic courses are available for adults and children (US$10/50 for one/six sessions). The outlet store for Jenggala is Gudang Keramik in Sanur.

Getting There & Away

Public bemo (small minibuses) from Tegal terminal in Denpasar go via Kuta to Jimbaran (12,000Rp), and continue to Nusa Dua. They don’t run after about 4pm, but plenty of taxis wait around the beachfront warung in the evening to take diners home (about 35,000Rp to Kuta). Some of the seafood warung provide free transport if you call first.

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CENTRAL BUKIT

Jl Ulu Watu goes south of Jimbaran, climbing 200m up the peninsula’s namesake hill, affording views over southern Bali.

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Cultural Park (GWK; Map; 703603; admission 15,000Rp, parking 5000Rp; 8am-6pm) is the yet-to-be-completedhuge cultural park that is meant to be home to a 66m-high statue of Garuda. This Brobdingnagian dream is supposed to be erected on top of a shopping and gallery complex, for a total height of 146m. Touted as the biggest and highest statue in the world, it is to be surrounded by performance spaces, art galleries, a food court and an adventure playground.

Well, that’s the plan. So far the only completed part of the statue is the large bronze head. The buildings that do exist are mostly empty. However, besides the perverse fascination with big things gone bad, there’s another good reason to visit the site: the views. From a small café off the parking lot there are sweeping views across all of South Bali. And if it’s clear enough to see the volcanoes, then GWK is worth a detour.

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BALANGAN BEACH

First of a string of small beaches backed by cliffs that run along the west coast of the Bukit Peninsula south to Ulu Watu, Balangan Beach is a real find. A long and low area at the base of the cliffs is covered with palm trees and is fronted by a ribbon of near-white sand. At the north end there is a small temple, Pura Dalem Balangan (Map); at the south end, a few surfer shacks cluster, renting out loungers and serving drinks.

For details on the fast left surf break here, Click here.

Back on the bluff above the water are what are likely to be the first of many places to stay; both have cafés. The beach is a five-minute walk.

Run by the same family who had the now-demolished Robby & the Kids Warung at Dreamland Beach (right), Balangan Sea View Bungalows (Map; 0812 376 1954; [email protected]; r from 250,000Rp; ) is a cluster of thatched bungalows surrounding a small pool in an attractive compound.

At Flower Bud Bungalows (Map; 0828 367 2772; www.flowerbudbalangan.com; r 250,000-375,000Rp), the raised thatched bungalows are well spaced around simple gardens. There’s a certain Crusoe-esque motif, and fans and sprightly pillows are among the ‘luxuries’. It is directly across from Balangan Sea View Bungalows.

Balangan Beach is 6km off the main Ulu Watu road via Cenggiling. The turn is 1.5km past GWK. When you near the bluff, take the dirt road to the left that goes past the bungalows and ends at a parking area close to the beach.

NIGHTMARE LAND

On a typical day, scores of people sat on loungers on the too-white sand enjoying the cinematic surfing action, pausing once and a while for a drink or a snack from one of the family-run, thatched losmen (basic accommodation). Then the bulldozers arrived. As part of the vast Pecatu Indah project, the beach named Dreamland was effectively privatised for upscale development. Most of the warung moved north to Balangan; the surfers scattered like sand crabs.

Taxis from the Kuta area cost at least 40,000Rp per hour for the round-trip and waiting time.

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PECATU INDAH

This 400-hectare resort complex (Map; www.balipecatu.com) rises between central Bukit Peninsula and the coast. The land is arid but that hasn’t stopped the developers from building a huge hotel, condos, houses and, worst of all, a water-sucking 18-hole golf course. Follow the grand boulevards and you can see that the course doesn’t benefit from any water-conserving measures such as shade. You do see a lot of water trucks hauling water all the way in from Denpasar. It’s meant to be an international resort community but the environmental cost is obvious. Less obvious to newbies was the destruction of a sweet little beach named Dreamland for the construction of a Ku De Ta–type bar.

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BINGIN

A fast-evolving scene, Bingin comprises several funky places to stay scattered across cliffs and one strip of white sand down below. A 1km dirt road turns off the paved road (look for the thicket of accommodation signs), which in turn branches off the main Ulu Watu road at the small village of Pecatu.

An elderly resident collects 3000Rp at a T-junction, which is near parking for the trail down to the beach. The surf here is often savage but the sands are calm and the roaring breakers mesmerising. For details on the renowned left break, Click here.

The scenery here is simply superb, with virescent cliffs dropping down to a row of houses and the foaming edge of the azure sea. Several places to stay enjoy the views while more modest places are set back. All have at least simple cafés, although for nightlife – like the rest of this coast – you’ll be heading north to Kuta (unless your idea of nightlife is more intimate). Plans for upscale villas and hotels are constantly rumoured.

Sleeping

Bingin Garden (Map; 0816 472 2002; [email protected]; r from 150,000Rp) Four basic and new bungalows are set around tidy grounds back from the cliffs and 300m north of the toll gate. Each unit sleeps two and has cold water and a fan.

Micks Place (Map; 0812 391 3337; [email protected]; r from US$60, villas US$200; ) The turquoise water in the postage-stamp infinity pool matches the turquoise sea below. Funky is an understatement for this highly personable place with six artful round huts set in lush grounds. Most have no power or hot water but do have the sound of the surf. A walled villa does have power and its own pool.

Mu (Map; 847 0976; www.mu-bali.com; r €55-185; wi-fi) Turn left after the toll gate for the most stylish option in Bingin. Seven very individual bungalows with round, pointed thatched roofs are scattered about a compound dominated by a cliffside infinity pool. All have open-air living spaces; some have air-con bedrooms and hot tubs with a view.

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ULU WATU & AROUND

Ulu Watu has become the generic name for the southwestern tip of the Bukit Peninsula. It includes the much-revered temple and the fabled surf breaks at Padang Padang, Suluban and Ulu Watu. Surfers are most common in these parts, although a spate of villa-buildingis changing that. (In fact, authorities are waging war against new construction within about 2km of the temple.)

Sights & Activities

PURA LUHUR ULU WATU

This temple (Map; admission incl sarong & sash rental 3000Rp, parking 1000Rp; 8am-7pm) is one of several important temples to the spirits of the sea along the south coast of Bali. In the 11th century the Javanese priest Empu Kuturan first established a temple here. The temple was added to by Nirartha, another Javanese priest who is known for the seafront temples at Tanah Lot, Rambut Siwi and Pura Sakenan. Nirartha retreated to Ulu Watu for his final days when he attained moksa (freedom from earthly desires).

The temple is perched precipitously on the southwestern tip of the peninsula, atop sheer cliffs that drop straight into the pounding surf. You enter through an unusual arched gateway flanked by statues of Ganesha. Inside, the walls of coral bricks are covered with intricate carvings of Bali’s mythological menagerie. Only Hindu worshippers can enter the small inner temple that is built onto the jutting tip of land. However, the views of the endless swells of the Indian Ocean from the cliffs are almost spiritual. At sunset, walk around the clifftop to the left (south) of the temple to lose some of the crowd.

For tips on respecting traditions and acting appropriately while visiting temples, Click here. For a directory of important temples, Click here.

An enchanting and popular Kecak dance is held in the temple grounds at sunset; tickets cost 40,000Rp. Although the performance caters for tourists, the gorgeous setting makes it one of the more delightful on the island.

SURFING

From the paved road that goes northwest from Pecatu village (turn right at the small temple), it’s easy to access the breaks at Bingin (opposite). Impossibles is nearby and Padang Padang is about 1km on. There is parking just north of a bridge.

Ulu Watu (Ulu’s) is a storied surf spot – the stuff of dreams and nightmares. It’s about 1km south of Padang Padang and its legend is matched closely by nearby Pantai Suluban. Since the early 1970s these breaks have drawn surfers from around the world. The left breaks seem to go on forever. The area boasts numerous small inns and warung that sell and rent surfboards, and provide food, drink, ding repairs or a massage – whatever you need most. Pantai Suluban is the best place to swim in the area. From its bluff, you get a good view of all the area surf breaks.

DAMN MONKEYS

The temple is home to scores of grey monkeys. Greedy little buggers, when they’re not energetically fornicating, they snatch sunglasses, handbags, hats and anything else within reach. Of course if you want to start a riot, show them your banana…

Click here for more on the area’s surf breaks.

Sleeping

If you’re not picky you can count on being able to find accommodation of some sort near the surf break of your choice. Expect to pay at least 80,000Rp for a room with cold water, a fan and a shared bathroom. Many surfers choose to stay in Kuta and make the commute of less than an hour. More luxurious accommodation is also on offer, with more planned.

Padang Padang Inn (Map; 0812 391 3617; Jl Melasti 432; r from 80,000Rp) A better-than-averagebudget place, Padang Padang has 24 tidy rooms with private cold-water bathrooms and a little café. It can arrange all manner of surfing services like lessons, trips etc.

Gong (Map; 769976; [email protected]; Jl Pantai Suluban; r from US$12) Few stay away long from the Gong. Eight tidy rooms with good ventilation and hot water face a small compound and have distant ocean views. There’s also a café.

Rocky Bungalows (Map; 0817 346 209; off Jl Ulu Watu; r 400,000-500,000Rp; ) This ever-expanding hotel is just west of the Padang Padang surf break. It has 14 rooms with views out to sea from the balconies and pool and is a five-minute walk to the water. The best rooms have air-con and DVD players.

Eating

Most of the places to stay have cafés and any beach where there are surfers will have a few warung selling necessities like beer.

Yeye’s Warung (Map; Jl Labuan Sait; mains 18,000-30,000Rp) A gathering point away from the cliffs, Yeye’s has an easygoing ambience, cheapish beers and tasty Western, Indonesian and vegetarian food. But pizza is the perennial number-one attraction.

Jiwa Juice (Map; 7424196; Jl Melasti; mains 20,000-30,000Rp; ) Jiwa means ‘soul’, and the juices and fresh, light food here are good for the same. This popular stop has internet access, a rarity in these parts.

DETOUR: THE SOUTH COAST

The south coast of the Bukit Peninsula has high wind-blown cliffs and big swells. Development choked off after the 1990s and, as you gaze out to the whitecaps of the Indian Ocean, you feel on the edge of the world.

Lots of little tracks lead to the cliffs from the southern roads linking Nusa Dua with Pecatu via Kuluh. Try exploring some. From the west, look for a steep track down to the beach and the Green Ball (Map) surf break about 4km from the little village of Ulu Watu. Other roads lead down to the coast to small beaches and sea temples such as Pura Gunung Payung (Map), which is near the invasive Nikko Bali Resort, a Soeharto-era leftover. Diminutive Pura Mas Suka (Map) is reached by a twisting narrow road through a barren red-rock landscape, but the views are divine. Click here for details of the area’s surf breaks.

Getting There & Away

The best way to see the west coast is with your own vehicle or by chartering a taxi. Note that the cops often set up traps near Pecatu Indah for motorcycle-riding Westerners. While you pay a fine for a ‘loose’ chin strap, helmet-less locals whiz by laughing.

Drivers’ note: coming from the east to Pantai Suluban you will first encounter a gated parking area (car/motorcycle 3000/2000Rp), which is about a 400m walk from the water. Continuing over a bridge, there is an older parking area (car/motorcycle 2000/1000Rp) that is a hilly 200m from the water. Watch out for ‘gate-keepers’ looking for bonuses.

Public bemo to Ulu Watu are infrequent and stop running by mid-afternoon. Some from Kuta serve Jimbaran and Ulu Watu – it’s best to catch one west of Tuban (on Jl Raya Kuta, outside the Supernova shopping centre) or in Jimbaran (on Jl Ulu Watu).

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NUSA DUA

Nusa Dua translates literally as Two Islands –although they are actually small raised headlands, each with a little temple. But Nusa Dua is much better known as Bali’s gated compound of resort hotels. It’s a vast and manicured place where you leave the rest of the island behind as you pass the guard. Gone are the street vendors, hustle, bustle and engaging chaos of the rest of the island. Here you even talk more quietly.

Built in the 1970s, Nusa Dua was designed to compete with international beach resorts the world over. The goal was to attract free-spending holidaymakers while keeping them isolated from the rest of the island. Balinese ‘culture’ in the form of attenuated dances and other performances are literally trucked in for the masses nightly.

With thousands of hotel rooms Nusa Dua can live up to some of its promise when it’s full, but during slack times it’s rather desolate. Certainly it is closer in atmosphere to a generic international beach resort than to anything Balinese – although some of the hotels try to apply a patina of Bali style, an effort akin to putting lipstick on a, er, you guessed it.

Orientation & Information

Nusa Dua is very spread out. You enter the enclave through one of the guarded gateways; inside there are expansive lawns, manicured gardens and sweeping driveways leading to the lobbies of large resort hotels. It can be surprisingly confusing to walk or drive anywhere as streets curve this way and that.

In the middle of the resort, the Bali Collection shopping centre Click here has some chain stores and ATMs. For most supplies, try the huge new Hardy’s superstore Click here outside the gates in Bualu. A post office (Map; Jl Ngurah Rai) is nearby.

Sights

PASIFIKA MUSEUM

This grand new museum (Map; 774559; Bali Collection, Block P, Nusa Dua; admission 50,000Rp; 10am-6pm) suffers from the same visitor neglect as the rest of the Bali Collection. Good! You’ll likely have the place to yourself. Several centuries of art from cultures around the Pacific Ocean are displayed (the tikis are cool). The influential wave of European artists that thrived in Bali in the early 20th century is well represented. Look for works by Arie Smit, Adrien Jean Le Mayeur and Theo Meier. Staff will follow you from one wing to the next turning lights on and off. This museum is reason enough to visit Nusa Dua.

Activities

BEACH PROMENADE

One of the nicest features of Nusa Dua is the 5km-long beach promenade that stretches the length of the resort and continues north along much of the beach in Tanjung Benoa. Not only is it a good stroll at any time but it also makes it easy to sample the pleasures of the other beachside resorts. The walk is paved for most of its length.

SURFING & BEACHES

The reef-protected beach at Nusa Dua is shallow at low tide, and the wave action is pretty limp. The surf breaks at Nusa Dua are way out on reefs to the north and south of the two ‘islands’. They work best with a big swell during the wet season. Sri Lanka is a right-hander in front of Club Med. The so-called Nusa Dua breaks are peaks, reached by boat from the beach south of the Ayodya Resort – go past the golf course and turn left on a dirt road. Nonsurfers from all over southern Bali also flock to this pretty beach just north of Geger Beach, which now has a dozen warung.

The beach between the two peaks behind Bali Collection is also nice and has a large, shady and paved parking area that makes it a good stop for day-trippers, especially families, who will enjoy the calm atmosphere.

GOLF

The Bali Golf & Country Club (Map; 771791; www.baligolfandcountryclub.com; green fees US$150) is an 18-hole course with all the amenities one would expect from a course at a major resort. Its popularity has sparked condo development along the fairways and new resorts have begun opening nearby. It uses a lot of scarce water.

SPAS

All the resort hotels have pricey spas that provide a broad range of therapies, treatments and just plain, simple relaxation. The most lauded of the spas are at the Amanusa, Westin and Grand Hyatt in Nusa Dua (see below) and at the Conrad in Tanjung Benoa. All are open to non-guests.

Sleeping

The Nusa Dua hotels are similar in several ways: they are all big (some are just plain huge) and they have long beachfronts. Each has several restaurants and bars, as well as various pools and other resort amenities. But what’s most important is in the detail, as that’s where the real differences lie. Some hotels, such as the Westin and Grand Hyatt, have invested heavily in property, adding loads of amenities (such as the elaborate pools and day camps for kids) demanded by travellers today. Other hotels seem little changed from when they were built during the heyday of the Soeharto era in the 1970s.

If you’re considering a stay at Nusa Dua, prowl the internet looking for deals. During the off-season you can get excellent deals that bring nightly rates down by up to half.

Novotel Nusa Dua (Map; 848 0555; www.novotelnusaduabali.com; r from US$150; wi-fi) The closest sand to this 188-unit resort are the bunkers on the golf course that surrounds the complex. Large apartments here come with one to three bedrooms and are excellent for families. The beach is a 10-minute walk away.

Grand Hyatt Bali (Map; 771234; www.bali.grand.hyatt.com; r from US$250; wi-fi) A little city, of sorts, the 648-room Hyatt has directional signs that have up to 21 arrows. Like any city, some neighbourhoods are better than others. Some rooms in the West Village (there are four; the East and South Villages are best located) face the taxi parking lot. The riverlike pool (one of six) is huge and has a fun slide. The children’s club will keep ’em busy for days.

Westin Resort (Map; 771906; www.westin.com/bali; r from US$250; wi-fi) Attached to a large convention centre, the Westin has an air-conditioned lobby (a rarity) and vast public spaces. Guests in the 355 rooms enjoy the best pools in Nusa. There are waterfalls and more in this aquatic playground. The Kids Club has extensive activities and facilities. The landmark 2007 meetings on climate change were held here.

St Regis Bali Resort (Map; 847 8111; www.starwoodhotels.com; ste from US$500; wi-fi) The newest Nusa Dua resort leaves most of the others in the sand. Every conceivable luxury from the electronics to the furnishings to the marble is provided. Pools abound and units are huge. Golf course and the beach adjoin.

Amanusa (Map; 772333; www.amanresorts.com; villas from US$850; wi-fi) Overlooking the golf course and beyond across Selat Badung, the Amanusa is one of Bali’s best hotels. The elegant, understated architecture, rich decorations, superb service and brilliant views are the province of just 35 individual villas. Guests enjoy a private beach.

Other notable Nusa Dua resorts:

• Nusa Dua Beach Hotel & Spa (Map; 771210; www.nusaduahotel.com; r from US$150; wi-fi) The design of many of the 381 plush rooms has a curious preponderance of walls where there could be windows. This is a good place to score a cheap package.
• Ayodya Resort (Map; 771102; www.ayodyaresortbali.com; r from US$160; wi-fi) An enormous place with 537 rooms (although it actually feels bigger) in six-storey blocks, the Ayodya dropped the Hilton name in 2006. Lagoons covering the grounds are all for show – for swimming use the OK pool.

Eating

Restaurants can be found by the dozen in the huge resorts. Prices are high even by top-end Bali standards. For people not staying at the hotels, the best reason to venture in is if you want a bounteous Sunday brunch at one of the international chains.

South of Nusa Dua, the various warung at the surfers’ beach serve some very good and typically fresh local standards. Other good warung (Map) cluster at the corner of Jl Srikandi and Jl Pantai Mengiat. Also along the latter street, just outside the central gate, there are a string of open-air eateries offering an unpretentious alternative to Nusa Dua dining. None will win any culinary awards; most will provide transport.

Warung Dobiel (Jl Srikandi; meals from 15,000Rp; 8am-3pm) It’s all about pork at this beloved open-front warung. Pork satay, pork soup, and green beans with shredded pork are among the favourites. The sautéed jackfruit will make you a convert; the green sambal is redolent with spices. Seating is on stools at long tables.

Nyoman’s Beer Garden (Map; 775746; Jl Pantai Mengiat; dishes 25,000-50,000Rp) Best of the bunch just outside the gates. There’s a party atmosphere at the tables inside and out. The menu cuts a broad swath: Asian, pasta, pizza, burgers and, yes, schnitzel. Order the lobster in advance and it comes with the owner’s secret – and tasty – sauce.

Nusa Dua Beach Grill (Map; 743 4779; Jl Pura Geger; mains 30,000-60,000Rp) A hidden gem, this warm-hued café is the star of Geger beach, itself a hidden gem south of Nusa Dua. Reef-protected sands lure expat families; on weekends you could be in Nice, it’s so continental. Fresh grilled seafood is another lure. To get here, head south through Nusa Dua to the Bale Hotel, where a small road runs down to the beach and the temple, Pura Geger.

Entertainment

Most of the hotels offer Kecak and Legong dances on one or more nights. Hotel lounges also often have live music, from crooners to mellow rock bands.

Shopping

Bali Collection (Map; 771662) This shopping centre has had numerous name changes. The latest incarnation is mostly empty except for the dozens of assistants in the small Sogo Department Store. A few other souls try to make merry on their Bali holiday at the deserted Starbucks. Good luck. Although its problems can be traced to the rigorous security and closed nature of Nusa Dua, the isolation means that the boom other local malls are enjoying is a bust here.

Hardy’s (Map; Jl Ngurah Rai Bypass, Bualu; 8am-9pm) Huge new store by the local chain of supermarkets. Besides groceries it has most other supplies you can think of, plus ATMs.

Getting There & Away

The fixed taxi fare from the airport is 85,000Rp; a metered taxi to the airport will be less. Taxis to/from Seminyak average 70,000Rp.

Public bemo travel between Denpasar’s Tegal terminal and the terminal at Bualu (12,000Rp). From Bualu, it’s at least 1km to the hotels – not that anyone paying US$250 per night has ever taken a bemo to Nusa Dua.

Getting Around

Find out what shuttle-bus services your hotel provides before you start hailing taxis. A free shuttle bus (771662; 9am-10pm) connects all Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa resort hotels with the Bali Collection shopping centre about every hour. Better: use the delightful beach promenade.

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TANJUNG BENOA

The peninsula of Tanjung Benoa extends about 4km north from Nusa Dua to Benoa village. It’s flat and lined with family-friendly resort hotels, most of midrange calibre. By day the waters buzz with the roar of dozens of motorised water-sports craft. Group tours arrive by the busload for a day’s excitement straddling a banana boat and other thrills.

Like beaches at Sanur and Nusa Dua, those here are protected from waves by an offshore reef. That has allowed a local beach-activitiesindustry to flourish in the placid waters. Overall, Tanjung Benoa is a fairly sedate place, especially at night when the pleasures of Kuta and Seminyak are a bit of a hike (although there’s one restaurant that draws people to Tanjung Benoa).

Orientation & Information

Restaurants and hotels are strung out all along Jl Pratama, which runs the length of the peninsula. It may be one of the most perilous streets in South Bali for a stroll. From the Nusa Dua north gate north to the Conrad Hotel, there are no footpaths and in many places nowhere to walk but on the narrow road, which also has blind curves. Fortunately, the beach promenade is a wonderful alternative.

The police station is easy to find. There’s middling internet access at Man Dollow Internet Cafe (Map; 748 3887; Jl Pratama). Other services can be found south in the Nusa Dua area.

Sights

Benoa is one of Bali’s multidenominational corners, with an interesting Chinese Buddhist temple (Map), a mosque (Map) and a Hindu temple (Map) within 100m of each other. It’s a fascinating little fishing town that makes for a good stroll. On the dark side, however, it is also the centre of Bali’s illegal trade in turtles Click here.

Activities

Quite a few water-sports centres along Jl Pratama offer daytime diving, cruises, windsurfing and waterskiing. Check equipment and credentials before you sign up, as a few tourists have been killed frolicking here. Most centres have a thatched-roof bar and restaurant attached to their premises where prospective customers are given the hard sell. Each morning convoys of buses arrive from all over South Bali bringing day-trippers, and by 10am parasailers float over the water like goony birds looking for a place to crash.

Among the established water-sports operators are Benoa Marine Recreation (BMR; Map; 771757; www.bmrbali.com; Jl Pratama 99) and Hot Dog (Map; 778090; Jl Pratama). As if by magic, all operators have similar prices.

Water sports include the following:

• Banana-boat rides (per 15 minutes US$30) Wild rides for two as you try to maintain your grasp on the inflatable fruit over the waves.
• Diving With the operators mentioned, diving costs US$80/95 for one/two dives around Tanjung Benoa, including equipment rental; US$120 for two dives in Tulamben; and about US$400 for a three-day PADI open-water course. A minimum of two people is required for most dive trips and courses.
• Glass-bottomed boat trips (60-minute tour with snack US$25) The non-wet way to see the denizens of the shallows.
• Jet-skiing (per 15 minutes US$25) Big with people who like to go fast and belch smoke.
• Parasailing (per round US$25) Popular; you float above the water while towed by a speedboat.
• Snorkelling (per hour per person US$25) These trips include equipment and a boat ride to a reef (minimum two people).

COOKING SCHOOL

Bumbu Bali Cooking School (Map; 774502; Jl Pratama; classes US$75; 6am-3pm, Mon, Wed & Fri) Heinz von Holzen, who has done much to raise Bali’s culinary profile to the greater world, runs a very popular cooking school. It starts with a 6am visit to Jimbaran’s fascinating fish and village markets to buy goods, and finishes with lunch. Von Holzen shares his unique perspectives on life, food and more as the class progresses. It’s almost a floor show.

Sleeping

The Conrad Resort is the notable high-end and high-profile hotel amid what are mostly midrange places aimed at groups. There’s a dearth of small independent places with character. On the plus side, most of the beachside places are very family friendly and offer kids’ programs.

BUDGET

Two places close to Benoa village offer no-frills accommodation across from the beach.

Tanjung Mekar (Map; 0812 363 1374; Jl Pratama; r 120,000-150,000Rp; ) Set in a little garden back from the street, this small family-run guesthouse has four simple, pleasant rooms, some with air-con.

Pondok Agung (Map; 771143; [email protected]; Jl Pratama; r 150,000-250,000Rp; ) The eight airy rooms (most with tubs) in a large houselike building are good value. Higher-priced rooms come with air-con and TV. The gardens are attractive and the staff are savvy.

MIDRANGE

Club Bali Mirage (Map; 772147; www.clubbalimirage.com; Jl Pratama 72; r from US$70; ) This compact, J-shaped resort has a good-sized freeform swimming pool. Palms shade the grounds and the beach is right out front. Rooms feature bold colours, the better to jolt you out of your jetlag – or hangover. All 98 rooms have balconies or terraces. All-inclusive plans are available.

Benoa Beachfront Villas (Map; 771634; www.thebenoavillas.com; Jl Pratama 15B; r US$90-140; ) The 18 bungalow-style rooms of the Puri Benoa have been reborn as the Benoa Beachfront Villas. Rooms now sport a cream-and-dark-wood motif that you’d find in a Bali Style book. The outdoor bathrooms are airy. Given the rates, it’s worth going for an oceanfront room.

Rumah Bali (Map; 771256; www.balifoods.com; Jl Pratama; r US$100-125, villas from US$250; wi-fi) Rumah Bali is a luxurious interpretation of a Balinese village by Heinz von Holzen of Bumbu Bali fame (right). Guests have large family rooms or individual villas (some with three bedrooms) with their own plunge pools. There’s a ‘village centre’ with a tasty warung, Pasar Malam (below). Besides a large communal pool, there’s also a tennis court. The beach is a short walk away.

TOP END

Some top-end resorts are really time-share properties renting out rooms, while others are used almost exclusively by people on package tours.

Conrad Bali Resort (Map; 778788; www.conradhotels.com; Jl Pratama; r from US$200; wi-fi) Tanjung Benoa’s best hotel is from the luxury branch of the Hilton chain. It combines a Bali modern look with a refreshing, casual style. The 298 rooms are large and thoughtfully designed. Some units have patios with steps right down into the 33m pool, easing the morning dip. Bungalows have their own private lagoon and there is a large kids’ club. Travellers regularly name the Conrad their favourite hotel in polls.

Eating & Drinking

Each hotel has several restaurants. There are also several tourist restaurants in or near Tanjung Benoa. On the border with Nusa Dua, some warung cater to hotel guests and offer good value for money, while several busy local warung are clustered around the police station in Benoa.

Pasar Malam (Map; 771256; Jl Pratama; dishes 20,000-70,000Rp) Inside Rumah Bali (above), this warung fulfils the role of the village market eatery. There are local coffees, and exhibits and dishes celebrate the many forms of Balinese rice. The food is of the same high standard as that at Bumbu Bali.

Santorini (Map; 777942; Jl Pratama; meals 30,000-60,000Rp) A vision of white, this taverna brings the Greek Islands to the island of Bali. One of the more fun places on this street. The food is authentic – the wine too (not that that retsina is a plus…).

Tao (Map; 772902; Jl Pratama 96; mains 40,000-90,000Rp) You’d never know this airy beachfront club was part of the nearby Ramada Resort (except maybe when you see prices). The menu is mostly Thai – although that menu stalwart, the club sandwich, is there at the bottom. The preparation is inventive. Best of all, for the mere price of a drink you can use Tao’s pool, beach loungers and other facilities.

Bumbu Bali (Map; 774502; Jl Pratama; dishes 45,000-90,000Rp; noon-9pm) One of the finest restaurants on the island, Bumbu Bali serves the best Balinese food you’ll have during your visit. Long-time resident and cookbook author Heinz von Holzen, his wife Puji and enthusiastic staff serve exquisitely flavoured dishes. Many diners opt for one of several set menus (210,000Rp). The rijsttafel (selection of spiced rice dishes) shows the range of cooking in the kitchen, from satays served on their own little coconut-husk grill to the tender be celeng base manis (pork in sweet soy sauce) to the amazingly tasty and different jaja batun bedil (sticky dumpling rice in palm sugar), with a dozen more courses in between. Tables are set under the stars and in small pavilions. The sound of frogs can be heard from the fish ponds. There’s complimentary transport in the area. It’s wise to book.

Spice (Map; 778788; Conrad Resort, Jl Pratama; dishes 80,000-200,000Rp; dinner) Has a grand setting atop the hotel with tables inside and out. Nusa Lembongan twinkles in the distance. Service is excellent; the wine list voluminous. Chef Richard Millar’s menu is a kaleidoscope of tastes from Asia, India and beyond.

Getting There & Around

Taxis from the airport cost 100,000Rp. Take a bemo to Bualu, then take one of the infrequent green bemo that shuttle up and down Jl Pratama (3000Rp) – after about 3pm bemo become really scarce on both routes. A metered taxi will be much easier and quicker. Or stroll the beach promenade.

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SANUR

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Maybe Sanur is the Bali beachfront version of the youngest of the Three Bears, the one that’s not too frantic (like Kuta) or too snoozy (like Nusa Dua). Many do indeed consider Sanur ‘just right’ (and don’t befall the fate of Goldilocks), as it lacks most of the hassles found to the west while it has a good mix of restaurants and bars that aren’t all owned by a hotel.

The beach, while thin, is protected by a reef and breakwaters, so families appreciate the limpid waves. Sanur has a good range of places to stay and it’s well placed for day trips around the south, and north to Ubud. Really, it doesn’t at all deserve its local moniker, ‘Snore’.

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HISTORY

Inscriptions on a stone pillar found near modern Sanur tell of King Sri Kesari Varma, who came to Bali to teach Buddhism in AD 913.

Sanur was one of the places favoured by Westerners during their pre-WWII discovery of Bali. Artists Miguel Covarrubias, Adrien Jean Le Mayeur and Walter Spies, anthropologist Jane Belo and choreographer Katharane Mershon all spent time here. The first simple tourist bungalows appeared in Sanur in the 1940s and 1950s, and more artists, including Australian Donald Friend (whose antics earned him the nickname Lord Devil Donald), made their homes in Sanur. This early popularity made Sanur a likely locale for Bali’s first big tourist hotel, the Soekarno-era Grand Bali Beach Hotel.

During this period, Sanur was ruled by insightful priests and scholars, who recognised both the opportunities and the threats presented by the expanding tourism. Properly horrified at the high-rise Grand Bali Beach Hotel, they imposed the famous rule that no building could be higher than a coconut palm. They also established village cooperatives that owned land and ran tourist businesses, ensuring that a good share of the economic benefits remained in the community.

The priestly influence remains strong, and Sanur is one of the few communities still ruled by members of the Brahmana caste. It is known as a home of sorcerers and healers, and a centre for both black and white magic. The black-and-white chequered cloth known as kain poleng, which symbolises the balance of good and evil, is emblematic of Sanur.

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ORIENTATION

Sanur stretches for about 5km along an east-facing coastline, with the lush and green landscaped grounds of resorts fronting right onto the sandy beach. West of the beachfront hotels is the busy main drag, Jl Danau Tamblingan, with hotel entrances and oodles of tourist shops, restaurants and cafés.

Noxious Jl Ngurah Rai, commonly called Bypass Rd, skirts the western side of the resort area, and is the main link to Kuta and the airport.

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INFORMATION

Bookshops

• Periplus (282790; Hardy’s Supermarket, Jl Danau Tamblingan 136) Good selection of glossy books, best-sellers and periodicals.

Emergency

• Police station (288597; Jl Ngurah Rai)

Internet Access

Most hotels have some form of internet access. Many cafés and bars listed in this section have wi-fi.

Medical Services

• Guardian Pharmacy (284343; Jl Danau Tamblingan 134) The chain pharmacy has a doctor on call.

Money

Moneychangers here have a dubious reputation. There are numerous ATMs along Jl Danau Tamblingan and several banks.

Post

• Post office (754012; Jl Danau Buyan; 8am-7pm Mon-Sat) Located west of Jl Ngurah Rai.

SANUR’S ENVIRONMENTAL HUB

PPLH Bali (Pusat Pendidikan Lingkungan Hidup; 288221; www.pplhbali.or.id; Jl Hang Tuah 24) organises a broad range of environmental and educational programs and has a library and resource centre. Among the current programs is a ‘green school’ initiative to teach schoolchildren about the need to protect Bali’s environment. Visitors are welcome.

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SIGHTS

Sanur’s beachfront walk was the first in Bali and from day one has been delighting locals and visitors alike. Over 4km long, it follows the sand south as it curves to the west. Oodles of cafés with tables in the sand will give you plenty of reason to pause. Look for ferries crossing Selat Badung between Sanur and mysterious Nusa Penida. Offshore you’ll see gnarled fishermen in woven bamboo hats standing in the shallows rod-fishing for a living. At the northern end of the beach, elderly men gather at sunrise for meditasi –swimming and baking in the black volcanic sand found only at that end of the beach.

A few highlights: just north of the Bali Hyatt are the kind of lavish villas you wished your friends owned. This was the centre of expat life when Donald Friend ruled the roost Click here. Just south of the Hyatt is a long area where multihued fishing boats are pulled ashore and repaired under the trees. And look for surprises like a cow grazing next to a luxury resort or a bored beach-activities tout carving beautifully elaborate designs in the sand.

In keeping with the local demeanour, the white-sand beach is sheltered by a reef and the surf is sedate. At low tide the beach is wide, but the water is shallow and you have to pick your way out over rocks and coral through knee-deep water. At high tide the swimming is fine, but the beach is narrow and almost nonexistent in places. The hulking Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel, located at the northern end of the strip, fronts the best stretch of beach.

Just south of Jl Kesumasari there are simple warung, which rent loungers for 10,000Rp and battered kayaks for 20,000Rp.

Museum Le Mayeur

The Belgian artist Adrien Jean Le Mayeur de Merpes (1880–1958) arrived in Bali in 1932. Three years later, he met and married the beautiful Legong dancer Ni Polok when she was just 15. They lived in this compound, which houses the museum, when Sanur was still a quiet fishing village. The main house must have been delightful – a peaceful and elegant home filled with art and antiques right by the tranquil beach. After the artist’s death, Ni Polok lived in the house until she died in 1985. The house is an interesting example of Balinese-style architecture – notice the beautifully carved window shutters that recount the story of Rama and Sita from the Ramayana.

Despite security (some Le Mayeur paintings have sold for US$150,000) and conservation problems, almost 90 Le Mayeur paintings are displayed inside the museum (286201; adult/child 2000/1000Rp; 7.30am-3.30pm) in a naturalistic Balinese interior of woven fibres. Some of Le Mayeur’s early works are Impressionist paintings from his travels in Africa, India, the Mediterranean and the South Pacific. Paintings from his early periodin Bali are romantic depictions of daily life and beautiful Balinese women – often Ni Polok. The works from the 1950s are in much better condition and show fewer signs of wear and tear, displaying the vibrant colours that later became popular with young Balinese artists. Look for the haunting black-and-white photos of Ni Polok.

Bali Orchid Garden

Given Bali’s warm weather and rich volcanic soil, no one should be surprised that orchids thrive in abundance here. At this garden (Map;466010; Coast Rd; admission 50,000Rp; 8am-6pm) you can see thousands of orchids in a variety of settings. It’s 3km north of Sanur along Jl Ngurah Rai, just past the major intersection with the coast road.

Stone Pillar

The pillar, down a narrow lane to the left as you face Pura Belangjong, is Bali’s oldest dated artefact and has ancient inscriptions recounting military victories of more than a thousand years ago. These inscriptions are in Sanskrit and are evidence of Hindu influence 300 years before the arrival of the Majapahit court.

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ACTIVITIES

Much activity is centred on or near the beach, where families frolic. However if you’re ready to take a holiday from the little ones, Cheeky Monkeys (282420; www.cheekymonkeysbali.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 82; 8.30am-4pm) offers day care, babysitting, playgroups, art lessons and more for junior travellers-in-training age six and under. Sessions cost from 35,000Rp.

Surfing

Sanur’s fickle breaks (tide conditions often don’t produce waves) are offshore along the reef. The best area is called Sanur Reef, a right break in front of the Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel. Another good spot is known as the Hyatt Reef, in front of, you guessed it, the Bali Hyatt. You can get a fishing boat out to the breaks for 200,000Rp per hour. Click here for more details on these surf breaks.

Diving

The diving near Sanur is not great, but the reef has a good variety of fish and offers quite good snorkelling. Sanur is a good departure point for dive trips to Nusa Lembongan.

Among several good options, Crystal Divers (286737; www.crystal-divers.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 168; intro dives from US$25) is a slick diving operation and has its own hotel, Crystal Santai Hotel, and a large diving pool right outside the office. Recommended for beginners, the shop offers a long list of courses, including PADI open-water for US$425.

Water Sports

Various water sports are offered at kiosks along the beach: close to Museum Le Mayeur; near Sanur Beach Market; and at Surya Water Sports (287956; www.suryadive.com; Jl Duyung 10), which is the largest. You can go parasailing (US$20 per go), snorkelling by boat (US$30, two hours), windsurfing (US$30, one hour), or enjoy a two-tank dive at the nearby reef (US$50).

Spas

Most of the large beachside hotels have spas. Jamu Traditional Spa (286595; www.jamutraditionalspa.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 41; massage from US$45) has a beautifully carved teak-and-stone entry that sets the mood. This gracious spa offers a range of treatments including a popular Earth Essence Bust Treatment and a Kemiri Nut Scrub.

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SLEEPING

Usually the best places to stay are right on the beach; however, beware of properties that have been coasting for decades. Modest budgets will find comfort on the nonbeach side of Jl Danau Tamblingan.

If you find yourself at the mercy of a travel agent, don’t let them book you into the Inna Grand Bali Beach Hotel, which is past its prime.

Budget

Keke Homestay (287282; Jl Danau Tamblingan 96; r 60,000-135,000Rp; ) Set 150m down a gang (alley) from the noisy road, Keke welcomes backpackers into its genial family. The seven quiet, clean rooms vary from fan-only to air-con cool.

Watering Hole I (288289; www.wateringholesanurbali.com; Jl Hang Tuah 37; r 60,000-150,000Rp; ) In the northern part of Sanur, the Hole is a busy, friendly place close to the Nusa Lembongan boats. It has 20 pleasant, clean rooms; the cheapest having fan cooling and cold water. There’s a sister Watering Hole at the south end of Jl Tamblingan.

Ananda Beach Hotel (288327; Jl Hang Tuah 143; r US$15-35; ) Built around a large shrine and right on the beach, the Ananda has slightly dark rooms that are a jumble of old furniture. Deluxe room number 7 has a nice balcony with sea views; some of the 16 others are fan-only.

GETTING HIGH OVER SANUR

Travelling South Bali you can’t help but notice scores of kites overhead much of the year. These creations are often huge (10m or more in length, with tails stretching another 100m) and fly at altitudes that worry pilots. Many have noisemakers that make eerie humming and buzzing noises. Like much in Bali there are spiritual roots: the kites are meant to figuratively whisper into the ears of the gods suggestions that abundant harvests might be nice. But for many Balinese, these high-fliers are simply a really fun hobby.

Each July, hundreds of Balinese and international teams descend – as it were –on Sanur for the Bali Kite Festival. They compete for an array of honours in such categories as original design and flight endurance.

Kesumasari (287824; Jl Kesumasari 6; r fan/air-con 175,000/250,000Rp; ) The only thing between you and the beach is a small shrine. Beyond the lounging porches, the multihued carved Balinese doors don’t prepare you for the riot of colour inside the 11 idiosyncratic rooms.

Crystal Santai Hotel (286737; www.crystal-divers.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 168; r fan/air-con US$20/30; ) HQ for Crystal Dive. A two-storey building forms an L around the pool where divers literally get their feet wet. The 18 rooms are large and clean.

Jati Homestay (281730; www.hoteljatiandhomestay.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 168; r 200,000Rp; ) Jati means ‘genuine’ and you will feel right at home at this attractive inn. The 15 bungalow-style rooms are situated in pretty grounds; some of the units have small kitchens.

Hotel Bali Rita (282630; [email protected]; Jl Danau Tamblingan 174; r 250,000Rp; ) Lovely Rita is tailor-made for those who want a traditional-style bungalow room in a nice garden. The 12 rooms here are large, with big fridges and tubs in open-air bathrooms. You’ve nothing to fear from meter maids at this secluded compound well off busy Jl Danau Tamblingan. The beach is 10 minutes east.

Midrange

Flashbacks (281682; www.flashbacks-chb.com; Jl Danau Tamblingan 106; s/d 145,000/165,000Rp, bungalows 335,000/360,000Rp; ) This welcoming place has nine rooms that vary greatly in size. The better ones are bungalows or suites while more modest rooms share bathrooms and have cold water. The lovely design takes a lot of cues from traditional Balinese style. Porch Café Click here is out front.

Hotel Segara Agung (288446; www.segaraagung.com; Jl Duyung 43; r US$25-50; ) Down a quiet, sandy lane lined with villas, the hotel is only a three-minute walk from the beach. The 16 rooms are clean though spartan; the cheapest are fan and cold-water only. The big swimming pool is private.

Hotel Palm Garden (Taman Palem; 287041; www.palmgarden-bali.com; Jl Kesumasari 3; r from 275,000Rp; ) Everything is low-key here, from the 17 large rooms (with satellite TVs and fridges) to the relaxed service and pretty grounds. It’s one minute to the beach; there is a nice medium-sized pool with a small waterfall.