Fresh & Fast Vegetarian: Recipes That Make a Meal – Read Now and Download Mobi

Table of Contents

Title Page

Table of Contents

Copyright

Dedication

Acknowledgments

Introduction

FAST TECHNIQUES

FAVORITE TOOLS

FAVORITE INGREDIENTS

BASICS

Soups That Make a Meal

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH AVOCADO Vegan

CHILLED WATERMELON AND TOMATO SOUP Vegan

WHITE BEAN AND FENNEL SOUP Vegan

TOMATO AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH SPINACH PESTO Vegan (omit cheese from pesto)

LENTIL AND VEGETABLE SOUP WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA Vegan (omit dairy topping)

RED LENTIL SOUP WITH COCONUT MILK AND TOASTED CUMIN Vegan

LENTIL AND SHIITAKE SOUP WITH LEAFY GREENS Vegan

PUREED BLACK BEAN SOUP WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS Vegan

CURRIED CHICKPEA SOUP WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES Vegan

CARROT, SWEET POTATO AND GINGER SOUP WITH BABY BOK CHOY Vegan

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP WITH ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Vegan

WINTER BORSCHT Vegan (omit dairy topping)

PUMPKIN AND TOMATO SOUP WITH CHEESE

FARRO AND KALE SOUP WITH ORANGE GREMOLATA Vegan

MISO SOUP WITH SPINACH, CURRIED TOFU AND SHIITAKE Vegan

CURRIED COCONUT-SQUASH SOUP WITH PEANUTS Vegan

VEGETABLE, BLACK-EYED PEA AND ORZO SOUP Vegan (omit the cheese topping)

EASY BASIC VEGETABLE BROTH Vegan

Main and Side-Dish Salads

RED RICE SALAD WITH EDAMAME, TAMARI WALNUTS AND GINGER Vegan

BLACK RICE, MANGO AND SUGAR SNAP PEA SALAD Vegan

TOMATOES AND POTATOES WITH AVOCADO-DILL DRESSING

TOASTED BULGUR, TOMATO AND FETA SALAD

SOBA NOODLE SALAD WITH SNOW PEAS Vegan

TOASTED QUINOA, CORN AND AVOCADO SALAD Vegan

MIDDLE EASTERN BREAD SALAD Vegan

GREEN BEAN, CORN, TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SALAD Vegan

WARM GREEN BEAN AND TOMATO SALAD WITH MINT Vegan

SPINACH, AVOCADO AND CHOPPED-EGG SALAD

SHREDDED TUSCAN KALE, TOMATO AND AVOCADO SALAD Vegan

SHREDDED TUSCAN KALE SALAD WITH TAMARI AND SESAME Vegan

SUMMER TOMATO AND OLIVE BREAD SALAD Vegan

CABBAGE, PINEAPPLE AND PEANUT SALAD Vegan

CURRIED QUINOA AND APPLE SALAD WITH DRIED CRANBERRIES Vegan

BASIC VINAIGRETTE Vegan

JAPANESE RICE VINAIGRETTE WITH GINGER Vegan

Topped and Stuffed Breads That Make a Meal

ROSEMARY-FENNEL WHITE BEAN SPREAD Vegan

BROCCOLI, DILL AND LEMON SPREAD Vegan

CHICKPEA SPREAD WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES Vegan

BEET AND TAHINI PUREE

BRAISED SWISS CHARD WITH PECORINO CURLS

TOMATO, AVOCADO AND TARRAGON SPREAD Vegan

ROASTED RED PEPPER AND WALNUT SPREAD Vegan

MULTI-MUSHROOM PÂTÉ Vegan

CHEESE AND MUSHROOM MELTS

TOASTED ITALIAN BREAD WITH MOZZARELLA, TOMATO AND OLIVES

QUICK MELTED COMTÉ CHEESE CRISPS

GRILLED COMTÉ SANDWICH WITH APPLE AND MANGO CHUTNEY

TOASTED FLATBREAD (NAAN) WITH GOAT CHEESE, SAUTÉED GREENS AND CRISPY SHALLOTS

CURRIED EGG AND FETA BREAKFAST QUESADILLAS

ROASTED VEGETABLE AND MOZZARELLA QUESADILLAS

CORN TORTILLAS WITH MUSHROOMS, SPINACH AND MANCHEGO CHEESE

SUMMER VEGGIE BURRITOS WITH GOAT CHEESE

SPICY CHIPOTLE CHILE SALSA Vegan

Main Dishes

STIR-FRIED TOFU WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS, BELL PEPPERS AND SPINACH

TOFU "STEAKS" WITH SPICY ALMOND BUTTER SAUCE AND BABY BOK CHOY Vegan

STIR-FRIED CURRIED TOFU WITH COCONUT GREEN RICE AND CASHEWS Vegan

PAN-SEARED TOFU WITH EGGPLANT AND CURRIED TOMATO-MINT SAUCE Vegan

BULGUR PILAF WITH ROASTED VEGETABLES Vegan

TOASTED QUINOA WITH SPINACH, BLISTERED TOMATOES AND WALNUTS

FARROTTO WITH TOMATOES AND PECORINO

CUMIN-SCENTED ISRAELI COUSCOUS WITH CARAMELIZED CABBAGE Vegan

RED QUINOA WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS, ASPARAGUS AND TAMARI ALMONDS

SHORTCUT CORN RISOTTO WITH SUMMER "SUCCOTASH"

VEGETABLE PAELLA Vegan

LENTIL AND SHIITAKE RAGOUT WITH GREEN BEANS Vegan

CURRIED LENTILS WITH WALNUTS, SPINACH AND CHERRY TOMATOES Vegan (omit the yogurt)

CURRIED POTATO, SHIITAKE AND BROCCOLI STIR-FRY Vegan (omit the yogurt)

TWICE-BAKED POTATOES WITH ROASTED POBLANO CHILES AND QUESO FRESCO

ROASTED SWEET POTATOES TOPPED WITH QUICK BLACK BEAN CHILI Vegan (omit the yogurt)

SAUTÉED CABBAGE AND CRISPY POTATO CAKE WITH MELTED CHEESE

CANNELLINI RAGOUT WITH LEEKS, GREEN BEANS AND ORANGE Vegan

ARTICHOKE AND POTATO STEW WITH BLACK OLIVES AND TOMATOES

WINTER VEGETABLE STEW WITH MOROCCAN FLAVORS Vegan

COCONUT-VEGETABLE CURRY WITH CASHEWS Vegan

CURRIED CHICKPEAS WITH ROASTED CAULIFLOWER AND SPINACH

RISOTTO-STYLE PENNE WITH TOMATOES AND RICOTTA SALATA

ORECCHIETTE WITH RICOTTA, BROCCOLI RABE AND BLISTERED CHERRY TOMATOES

GNOCCHI WITH GREEN BEANS AND WALNUT PESTO

TWICE-COOKED POLENTA GRATIN

THREE-MUSHROOM RAGU WITH STOVETOP POLENTA

DOUBLE-CORN AND JALAPEÑO POLENTA GRATIN

SKILLET-BAKED EGGS WITH BLISTERED CHERRY TOMATOES

ZUCCHINI AND RED ONION MINI OMELETS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE

QUICK SUPPER FRITTATA

Vegetable Sides That Make a Meal

QUICK-COOKING ARTICHOKES WITH LEMON, MINT AND FETA

SPRING VEGETABLE SAUTÉ Vegan

ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH WARM CHERRY TOMATOES AND BLACK OLIVES Vegan

ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH CHOPPED EGG, FETA AND BLACK OLIVES

ROASTED ASPARAGUS WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO CRUMBS

TWICE-COOKED GREEN BEANS WITH CURRIED PECANS Vegan

GREEN AND YELLOW WAX BEANS WITH ALMOND PESTO

PAN-BRAISED BEETS WITH PISTACHIO PESTO

SAUTÉED SHREDDED BEETS WITH ORANGE AND BASIL Vegan

PAN-SEARED BELGIAN ENDIVE WITH LEMON, HONEY AND THYME

OVEN-ROASTED MINI BELL PEPPERS WITH ROSEMARY Vegan

PAN-BLISTERED MINI BELL PEPPERS Vegan

STEWED RED BELL PEPPERS AND TOMATOES Vegan

PAN-SEARED BABY BOK CHOY WITH RED PEPPER OIL Vegan

BROCCOLI AND RED ONION STIR-FRY WITH TAMARI WALNUTS Vegan

BROCCOLI WITH OLIVES, ORANGE ZEST AND PARSLEY Vegan

STIR-FRIED BROCCOLINI WITH SESAME AND ORANGE Vegan

BROCCOLINI WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND PINE NUTS Vegan (omit the cheese)

TWICE-COOKED BROCCOLI RABE WITH RED PEPPER AND GARLIC OIL Vegan

PAN-SEARED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH HAZELNUTS Vegan

CRISP-COOKED SAVOY CABBAGE WITH ASIAN FLAVORS Vegan

CARROTS WITH MOROCCAN SPICES AND LEMON Vegan

MARINATED CARROTS WITH DILL AND MINT Vegan

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER "STEAKS" Vegan

ROASTED CAULIFLOWER, RED BELL PEPPER AND RED ONION WITH ROSEMARY AND GARLIC Vegan

SWISS CHARD WITH FRAGRANT GARLIC AND SALT Vegan

SWISS CHARD RIBS GRATIN

CURRIED CORN WITH SUGAR SNAP PEAS AND MINT Vegan

CORN SAUTÉ WITH JALAPEÑO AND CILANTRO Vegan

MEXICAN CORN ON THE COB

JAPANESE EGGPLANT STIR-FRY WITH SHIITAKE, BELL PEPPERS AND GINGER Vegan

BROILED EGGPLANT TOWERS WITH TOMATO, PESTO AND MOZZARELLA

SKILLET-BRAISED FENNEL WITH COMTÉ CHEESE

STIR-FRIED ASIAN GREENS WITH CRISP GOLDEN GARLIC Vegan

STEAMED SPINACH WITH GINGER AND GARLIC OIL Vegan

CRISPY KALE Vegan

OVEN-BRAISED LEEKS WITH ORANGE AND THYME Vegan

OVEN-ROASTED STUFFED PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS Vegan

OVEN-ROASTED MUSHROOMS, ONIONS AND POTATOES WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA Vegan

OKRA WITH TOMATO-GINGER SAUCE Vegan

ROASTED POTATO SLABS WITH ROMESCO SAUCE Vegan

ROASTED SWEET POTATO SLICES WITH CORIANDER AND LEMON DRESSING Vegan

CURRIED SWEET POTATO WEDGES WITH YOGURT, GARLIC AND MINT SAUCE

BLISTERED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH BALSAMIC Vegan

WHOLE-ROASTED TOMATOES WITH WARM GOAT CHEESE

BLISTERED PLUM TOMATOES WITH BUBBLY CHEESE

APPLE-GLAZED ACORN SQUASH Vegan

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH WITH NUTMEG AND MANCHEGO CHEESE

SUMMER STEW OF ZUCCHINI, TOMATOES, CORN AND BASIL Vegan

BROILED SUMMER SQUASH WITH VINAIGRETTE, DILL AND GOAT CHEESE

Grains and Beans That Make a Meal

GARLICKY TOASTED BUCKWHEAT WITH GREEN BEANS, DILL AND WALNUTS Vegan

TOASTED BULGUR PILAF WITH CUMIN, DRIED FRUIT AND CRISPY SHALLOTS Vegan

BULGUR AND DATE PILAF WITH PECANS AND PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

ISRAELI COUSCOUS WITH WILTED SPINACH, TOASTED PINE NUTS AND PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

TOMATO COUSCOUS WITH CINNAMON AND RAISINS Vegan

FARRO WITH BASIL AND PARSLEY PESTO

EASY STOVETOP POLENTA vegan (omit the cheese)

QUINOA PILAF WITH APPLES AND CURRIED WALNUTS Vegan

RED QUINOA WITH TOASTED HAZELNUTS AND HAZELNUT OIL Vegan

BLACK RICE PILAF WITH EDAMAME, GINGER AND TAMARI Vegan

YELLOW RICE AND CARROT PILAF WITH MINT Vegan

SPICY RED RICE AND ORANGE PILAF Vegan

CANNELLINI WITH SAUTÉED FENNEL AND BLISTERED CHERRY TOMATOES

CHICKPEAS, BRAISED KALE AND GOLDEN ONIONS WITH TOMATO, DILL AND BLACK OLIVE SALSA Vegan

CUMIN BLACK BEANS WITH BLISTERED TOMATOES AND CORN Vegan

LENTILS WITH ROASTED RED PEPPERS, DILL, MINT AND FETA

Sources

Index

Copyright © 2011 by Marie Simmons

Photographs © 2011 by Luca Trovato

All rights reserved

For information about permission to reproduce selections from this book,
write to Permissions, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company,
215 Park Avenue South, New York, New York 10003.

www.hmhbooks.com

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Simmons, Marie.
Fresh & fast vegetarian : recipes that make a meal / Marie Simmons ;
photographs by Luca Trovato.
p. cm.
Summary: "Approximately 150 simple vegetarian dinners"—Provided by publisher.
ISBN 978-0-547-36891-7 (pbk.)
1. Vegetarian cooking. 2. Cookbooks. I. Title. II. Title: Fresh and fast vegetarian.
TX837.S4868 2011
641.5'636—dc22 2010049779

Book design by Melissa Lotfy
Food styling by Rori Trovato / Prop styling by Dani Fisher

Printed in the United States of America

DOC 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

To my friends at La Cocina Que Canta
and Rancho Tres Estrellas

Acknowledgments

One writes a cookbook recipe by recipe, cooking for days and days, pausing between bites to shop the markets and restock, compare notes with fellow cooks and feed friends and neighbors. Finally, the pages multiply, the deadline is near and the book is done. It's hard work, but because I am blessed with a sweet husband who encourages me each and every day and a coterie of generous, caring friends, colleagues and neighbors who share my passion and curiosity for food and are always happy to be volunteer tasters, the process is a pleasure.

The seed for this book was planted at La Cocina Que Canta, the cooking school at Rancho La Puerta in Tecate, Mexico, where I often teach. I am deeply grateful to Antonia Allegra for inviting me to be guest instructor, and to the fabulous staff—some of the most charming human beings on the face of the earth—who make their beautiful kitchen sing and ensure that each of my visits is inspiring and memorable.

Food and eating are so central to my circle of humanity that it is difficult to list everyone who has helped to bring this book to fruition. Those who grace my life on a regular basis are Debbie and Peter Rugh, Kathleen de Wilbur and Perry Dexter, Kathleen O'Neill, Brooke Jackson, Richard Clark, Paula and Edward Hamilton, Wendy Beers, Caryl Levine and Ken Lee, Linda Romanelli Leahy and Rob Leahy, Marvin and Maral Angus, Tracy West and Kathryn Johnson; my yoga teacher Vicki Bell; my long-time New York food editor friends Babs Chernetz, Susan Westmoreland, Michele Scicolone and Tamara Holt; my close neighbors on Rosalind Avenue, Emory and Josephine Menefee, Chere Douglas, Roger, Jools and Ryan Hand and Ruth and Mike Peretz, who are always happy to taste and offer their comments; and my book club pals Sue Ewing, Patricia Flynn, Susan Heller, Alice Johnson and Elizabeth Tilson, who all love to cook and eat as much as they love books.

This book wouldn't exist without my amazing agent, Carole Bidnick, or Rux Martin, a fabulous editor, who said, "Let's do it," without hesitation when she heard I wanted to write a vegetarian cookbook. Thank you also to Luca and Rori Trovato and Houghton Mifflin Harcourt's designer Melissa Lotfy for the beautiful photographs and the fresh, clean look. I'm also grateful to Houghton's managing editor for cookbooks, Rebecca Springer, and Jacinta Monniere for her painstakingly accurate typing.

Finally, a loving nod to my precious family: John, Stephanie, Seraphina, Shawn and Joseph—you are the reason I continue to cook.

Introduction

My transition from omnivore to mostly vegetarian was gradual enough to register as a nonevent. I only wish I had a dramatic revelation to share. Although I care deeply about the health of the planet, the treatment of the animals we eat and how our food is grown, there was nothing sudden or militant about my choosing vegetarian meals. The simple fact is I eat plant-based foods because they taste good and they make me feel better.

I come to the vegetarian table as a person who loves food, loves to cook and loves big, bold imaginative flavors. As my repertoire of ingredients and techniques and my knowledge of cooking grow, I find myself cooking meat less and less often. My mantra is fast, great-tasting recipes that use the freshest ingredients possible.

I grew up in New York's Hudson Valley, surrounded by farms. It wasn't unusual to come home after school on a September afternoon to bags of freshly harvested tomatoes, eggplant, zucchini (and their glorious blossoms, which Mom fried and we ate like potato chips) or just-picked corn lined up on the back steps. These were gifts from neighbors and relatives, happy to share the bounty of their gardens.

My mother, a schoolteacher and an excellent Italian cook who often quoted her grandmother's saying, "I'd rather spend money on good food than on the doctor," believed that food was the medicine we needed. And to Mom, that meant lots of vegetables. Vegetables, she claimed, had magical powers that would make us big and strong, give us bright eyes and shining hair and ward off that dreaded visit to the doctor. I believed her.

Another major reason for the vegetarian shift at my table must be credited to the growth in the glorious farmers' market movement. Growing up in an agrarian region, I took the local farm stand bounty and the produce from neighbors for granted. Later, as a young adult, I made my way to the big city. It was a time of change. The Union Square Market in the middle of Lower Manhattan opened. Saturday mornings, without fail, my husband, John, and I hopped on our bikes and pedaled over the Brooklyn Bridge to stock up. We must have been quite a sight, with ears of corn bungeed over our back wheels and backpacks bulging with peaches, tomatoes, green beans and, of course, a bouquet of flowers sticking out of the top. This adventure was simply an extension of my childhood. Some of the same farmers who supplied the local farm stands I visited with Mom as a kid were even there.

But no matter how experienced a cook you are, getting a vegetarian meal on the table day after day can be a challenge. One solution is to move the starch—whole grains or beans—to the center of the plate and surround it with ample servings of vegetables. One of my favorite meals is creamy white cannellini beans topped with blistered cherry tomatoes and salty black olives, served with a side dish of broccoli florets stir-fried with crunchy walnuts and red onion slivers. The comforting meatiness of the beans, the tanginess of the tomatoes, the saltiness of the olives and the exciting mix of flavors and textures in the broccoli give the plate contrasts in taste, color and texture—all the elements I look for in a meal.

In this book, "fast" means a meal that takes between 30 and 45 minutes to cook. Since prep times vary according to your skill and style in the kitchen, it's difficult to estimate them reliably, but most of the recipes in this book can be made in half to three-quarters of an hour. If a recipe does take longer than 45 minutes, it is marked "When You Have More Time." All the recipes include menu ideas for combining two or three dishes—suggestions intended to help you pull together a hearty, satisfying and delicious meal. Use them as a springboard, but feel free to mix and match the recipes throughout the book to create your own favorite combinations.

Recently, a friend who was attempting to transition into cooking more vegetarian meals complained, "Gosh, I spend a lot of time chopping." It's true that when you're dealing with fresh produce, there can be a lot of trimming, rinsing and chopping, but over the years, I've discovered ways to reduce prep and cook times. For instance, potatoes, beets and winter squash cook in half the time when the pieces are sliced or cubed. Searing food in a heavy skillet is quicker than oven-roasting. Although I prefer vegetables fresh from the farmers' market, I keep bagged, trimmed supermarket vegetables on hand for emergencies. The quickest-cooking members of the grains-and-beans clan—quinoa, bulgur, farro, white rice and lentils—are always in the pantry, and I keep a batch of brown rice soaking in water, refrigerated, overnight, which cuts the cooking time almost by half.

To help you avoid the frustration of not having a specific ingredient, I've included user-friendly substitutions at the end of many of the recipes. And for those who prefer no dairy or eggs, more than half of the recipes in this book are labeled "Vegan." Quick Hits—short recipes that encourage you to add a simple embellishment to a basic food—appear at the beginning of each chapter. For example, jazz up a batch of cooked bulgur or quinoa with garlic and almonds tossed in warm olive oil or add crumbled feta cheese, dried fruit and pistachios to a salad of mixed greens.

Whether it's a bowl of fancy lettuces garnished with cheese curls, dried fruits and nuts or a simple soup or hearty stew laced with exotic spices, a vegetarian meal need not be a challenge or a cause of frustration. As my mother and grandmother knew, the ultimate goal of the cook is to be certain everyone has something good to eat.

FAST TECHNIQUES

I'm always looking for ways to cook the foods I love quickly without sacrificing taste and quality. Here are a few of my solutions.

Give vegetables a good soaking.
Freshly harvested vegetables are higher in moisture and cook more quickly because their moisture converts to steam, cooking them from the inside out. Because we don't always have access to freshly harvested vegetables and often depend on bagged precut vegetables from our supermarkets, I use this technique to replace some of the moisture that has dissipated. Place the vegetable in a large bowl, cover with cold water, add a handful of ice cubes and soak for 10 to 20 minutes while you prep the other ingredients. This method is most effective with carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, greens, bell peppers and celery.

Don't peel.
Potato skins add flavor, as do beet skins, squash skins and carrot peels. Rinse the vegetables in a bowl of water and keep a stiff brush handy for scrubbing off surface dirt.

Cut vegetables into smaller pieces.
Cutting up vegetables shortens their cooking time. A shredded beet cooks faster than a beet the size of a golf ball, and sliced and diced potatoes and winter squash cook faster than large pieces.

Grate garlic, don't chop it.
I hate to chop garlic. I'm too rushed and resent the time it takes, and I find garlic presses cumbersome. Enter my trusty Microplane rasp grater (see Favorite Tools, [>]). Two strokes of a peeled garlic clove along this sharp grater, and you get soft, fine garlic every time. A small marble mortar and pestle makes quick work of mashing garlic with coarse salt. Also, beware of out-of-season or winter garlic, which is strongtasting. In winter, I halve the amount of garlic in most recipes.

Cut onions into thin lengthwise slices.
This is the fastest, easiest way to cut them. First, halve the onion from stem to blossom end, then peel. Place it cut side down on the cutting board and cut lengthwise into thin slices. They will separate into thin crescent-moon-shaped pieces. You can vary the thickness depending on what you need, cutting them into ¼-inch-thick slices for salads, ⅛-inch-thick slices for sautés and ¼- to ½-inch-thick slices for roasting. A bonus of cutting them this way is that they will often match the shape of your other ingredients, so everything cooks evenly.

Pan-searing gives fast, flavorful results.
Heat a cast-iron skillet or other heavy skillet (not nonstick) until it is hot enough to sizzle and evaporate a drop of water, drizzle the pan with a little olive oil and add the vegetable. I use this method mostly for cherry tomatoes and mini bell peppers. The vegetables blister and blacken in a couple of minutes, the juices caramelize and the cooking time is cut in half. Direct-heat pan-searing at a slightly lower temperature also works with thick slices of beet, carrot and winter squash.

Use high heat for roasting vegetables.
Don't be afraid to crank the oven up to 450°F. I preheat the oven and a heavy-gauge baking sheet at the same time. When the food hits the pan, it immediately begins to sear. For even browning, spread the oiled and seasoned vegetables on the pan; don't crowd. This technique cuts about 20 minutes from most vegetable roasting times.

FAVORITE TOOLS

Baking sheets
I prefer rimmed sheet pans, sometimes called jelly roll pans. They are a godsend for high-temperature oven-roasting. To avoid buckling, buy only heavy-gauge metal pans with a high, rolled rim. The best size is approximately 16½ by 11¾ by 1 inch. For easy cleanup, line with a sheet of aluminum foil.

Cheese plane
A stubby V-shaped spatula with a sharp-edged horizontal opening in the middle, a plane makes thin curls of cheese, which are good for portion control. Cut from a wedge, pressing down hard and drawing the plane toward you across the surface. If you don't have a cheese plane, you can use a vegetable peeler.

Immersion blender, blender and/or food processor
These tools are especially handy for making smooth soups (see [>]).

Mortar and pestle
The mortar is the bowl and the pestle is the short, bat-shaped tool used to pound the food into a paste. Use a small (1-cup) mortar for chiles, garlic, salt and herbs and a larger (2- to 3-cup) one for pesto, guacamole and salsa.

Rasp grater (Microplane)
A long, narrow piece of curved stainless steel with razor-sharp perforations, it grates citrus zest, fresh ginger, garlic and hard cheese in seconds.

Serrated peeler
A vegetable peeler with serrated edges picks up and pulls away thin skins quickly. It is often sold as a tomato peeler. (Life is too short to peel tomatoes.)

Skillets
A large straight-sided skillet or sauté pan, 10 to 12 inches in diameter and 2½ inches deep, with a tight-fitting lid, is my all-purpose pan. I use it for everything from cooking grains to steaming greens to making risotto. Skillets that are 10 to 12 inches in diameter with shallow sloping sides are good for searing over high heat, sautéing and cooking eggs, omelets and frittatas. A small 8-inch pan is good for toasting nuts. A cast-iron skillet (10-inch) is great for high-heat cooking—searing peppers, dry-frying green beans and sautéing mushrooms or asparagus.

Soup pot or Dutch oven
A 5- to 8-quart pot has ample room for sautéing, simmering and stirring. It's great for polenta, stews and soups. A favorite is enameled cast iron.

Wok
Look for a piece of cookware called a "wok skillet." My favorite is made from anodized aluminum and has a long, soft cushioned handle. Its slightly flattened bottom ensures that it will sit securely on any cooking surface, and the material and its strong handle make it easy to lift and clean.

FAVORITE INGREDIENTS

CHEESE AND OTHER DAIRY

Cheese choices for the strict vegetarian
A wide range of cheeses use enzymes or vegetable rennet for coagulation in place of animal rennet. Search out a cheese shop with a knowledgeable staff for the best selection. In my grocery store, the cheese lists the source of the rennet on the printed labels.

Parmigiano-Reggiano
Imported from Italy, this aged, hard, granular cheese is made from skimmed or partially skimmed cow's milk and has a delicious nutty, almost buttery taste. Chopped-up rinds or chunks simmered in polenta, soup or stew are a treat.

Comté
Imported from the Jura region in east-central France, Comté is a semihard cow's-milk cheese with a rich, creamy, nutty taste. It makes a fabulous grilled cheese sandwich. To keep cheese fresh, change the wrapping each time it is used.

Feta
This cheese is imported from all over the world and can be made from cow's, goat's or sheep's milk, or a blend. I like the mild French cow's-milk feta sold in shrink-wrapped packages. Once you open feta, store it in a plastic container covered with fresh water.

Queso fresco
Available wherever Latin-American products are sold, this pressed cow's-milk cheese is dry, crumbly and salty. If it's not available, substitute a mild feta.

Crema
In Mexican cooking, crema is comparable to crème fraîche or sour cream (which may be substituted) but thin enough to drizzle on tortillas or other dishes.

CHILES

Jalapeños
These chiles are often less fiery than they are supposed to be, so I usually buy more than I need, hoping that at least half will have adequate heat. If the flesh of a jalapeño isn't hot, include some of the white membrane and seeds to add extra heat. An alternative is to use a small serrano pepper for sufficient heat.

Chipotle chiles
Delicious, smoky, and fiery hot, these chiles are sold in small cans in the Mexican section of most supermarkets, packed in a vinegary adobo sauce. Because most recipes use just a small amount, you'll want to reserve the remainder of the can for later. Remove the stems and puree the chiles, plus the sauce. Drop by teaspoonfuls onto a sheet of aluminum foil and freeze until set. Pull off the frozen chipotles and freeze in a zip-top plastic freezer bag, where they will keep for at least 6 months. See Sources ([>]).

Piquillo peppers
In Spanish, piquillo means "little beak," which describes these small pointed-tipped triangular peppers. They have a full, rich flavor and come canned or in jars in specialty markets and some supermarkets. Rinse off the brine and pat the peppers dry before using. They are excellent dressed in a vinaigrette or drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt. Traditionally, they are stuffed with salt cod or a mixture of fish and potatoes and served warm with a drizzle of olive oil. See Sources ([>]).

HERBS AND SPICES

Fresh herbs
I buy big bunches and store them, unwashed, standing in a plastic-bag-covered glass in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 weeks. Change the water in the glass often and wash only what you need just before using. (Water bruises the leaves and encourages rot.) For the cleanest, brightest taste, add fresh herbs at the end of the cooking time, or add half during the cooking time and save the other half to sprinkle on top. Chop the tender stems of parsley, dill and cilantro along with the leaves. Discard the woody stems.

Dried herbs
While I prefer fresh herbs, in a pinch, I use dried rosemary, oregano, mint and thyme. Simmer dried herbs in a dish to fully rehydrate them and bring out their flavor. Because drying concentrates flavor, dried herbs are strong. To substitute dried for fresh, reduce the amount by half. A trick I find useful to give dried herbs a blast of freshness is to pound them in a mortar with a sprig of Italian parsley and a pinch of coarse salt. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, make a little mound of the dried herb, coarsely chopped Italian parsley and salt and chop fine.

Smoked paprika (Pimentón de la Vera)
This ground red pepper has a deep, smoky aroma and a meaty taste. It comes from an area in Spain called La Vera, where the chiles are dried over wood fires before grinding. Available in specialty stores or by mail order, it comes in three strengths: dulce, or sweet; agridulce, or spicy sweet; and picante, or hot. I prefer the dulce and use it almost exclusively. See Sources ([>]).

Madras curry powder
All curry is a blend of spices, but I am partial to this Southern Indian mix. It contains cinnamon, anise, fenugreek, fennel and cloves, giving it a sweetness that balances the heat of the chiles and pepper. I prefer the reasonably priced Sun Brand Madras curry powder sold in a gold and white tin in many supermarkets. Feel free to substitute your favorite curry powder.

Moroccan spice blend (ras el hanout)
The flavors and proportions of the spices in this spice blend vary widely, but feel free to experiment with making your own from spices you have on hand (see below). Use ras el hanout in egg dishes, sauces and pilafs and on roasted potatoes or other vegetables. To purchase ras el hanout, see Sources ([>]).

• Homemade Moroccan Spice Blend
Combine ¼ to ½ teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground cardamom, ground ginger, ground allspice, ground turmeric and freshly ground black pepper.

Za'atar
This blend of dried thyme, oregano, sumac and toasted sesame seeds makes a delicious topping, along with a rich-tasting olive oil, for yogurt, feta cheese, pilafs, vegetables and toasted breads (see Middle Eastern Bread Salad, [>]). See Sources ([>]) to purchase za'atar and sumac.

• Homemade Za'atar
Combine 2 teaspoons dried thyme, 2 teaspoons dried oregano, 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds, 2 teaspoons ground sumac and ½ teaspoon coarse salt.

Salt
I prefer the texture and taste of coarse salt. The staple salt in my kitchen is kosher salt. For finishing dishes, I sometimes use sea salt, which has a distinctive mineral taste. I find fine salt or the salt sold in the round boxes too metallic and salty-tasting. Because of the size of the crystals, measure by measure coarse salt contains half the sodium of fine salt.

OTHER FLAVORINGS AND SEASONINGS

Orange and lemon zest
I am partial to the fresh, bright taste that citrus zest imparts. I especially love orange with beets, tomatoes, cauliflower, broccoli and herbs like dill, mint and basil. For fine pieces, grate zest on a Microplane (see [>]). For thin strips, use a vegetable peeler to shave off pieces that are approximately ½ inch wide and 2 to 3 inches long and cut them into long, thin slivers.

Tamari and soy sauce
These two popular sauces for stir-fries are both made from soybeans, but tamari is slightly thicker and a bit smoother in taste. It is available in full-strength or reduced-sodium versions. To preserve its fresh taste, I keep tamari refrigerated once opened.

Preserved lemons
Available in jars at a steep price, this Moroccan staple can be made at home by following this simple recipe. They need several weeks to mature, so make them ahead to keep on hand.

• Homemade Preserved Lemons
Scrub 2 or 3 small lemons, trim the ends and partially cut them into 6 or 8 wedges, without separating the wedges. Spread the wedges apart and rub the cut surfaces with coarse salt, using about 1 tablespoon salt for each lemon. Press the lemons back together and pack them firmly into a clean jar. Squeeze more lemons to make about 1 cup fresh lemon juice. Add the lemon juice to fill the jar. Let stand, tightly closed, at room temperature for about 4 weeks, turning the jar every other day. To use, dice the rinds and add to stews or sprinkle over vegetables. The pulp can be whisked into salad dressings or sauces. Once the jar is opened, store it in the refrigerator.

Rice vinegar
I prefer the unseasoned Marukan brand rice vinegar because it has a light, fresh, moderately sharp taste. I especially like it tossed into rice salads. (See Japanese Rice Vinaigrette with Ginger, [>].)

Tomato paste
I depend on the rich, concentrated flavor and salty edge that tomato paste adds to a pot of soup or stew. Because I rarely use an entire can of paste, I measure out tablespoonfuls onto a sheet of foil and freeze until firm. Once the blobs are firm, I peel them off and store them in a zip-top plastic freezer bag.

SEEDS AND NUTS

Sesame seeds
They are available in creamy white, tan and black. I prefer the tan ones, which don't have the hulls removed and are often sold as "toasted" in Asian markets. If you can only find the hull-less white seeds, you'll have to toast them in a small skillet, stirring constantly, over low heat until golden, 1 to 2 minutes. For black sesame seeds, see Sources ([>]).

Chinese sesame seed paste
This hard paste of ground toasted sesame seeds is darker in color and has a drier consistency and stronger taste than Middle Eastern sesame paste (tahini). Dig the paste out of the jar with a sturdy spoon and discard the excess oil floating on the top.

Pepitas
These hulled pumpkin seeds are often used in Mexican cooking and are sold in the nut or snack section of supermarkets in jars or plastic bags. You can choose from roasted or raw, salted or unsalted. They're great in salads and pilafs or sprinkled on soups. See Sources ([>]).

LIQUID SWEETENERS

Agave nectar
Made from the nectar of the agave, a succulent plant of Mexico, where its name translates as "honey water," this sweetener has a mild, slightly caramel taste. It is favored by some because it has a low glycemic index (about half that of sugar) and by vegans who want an alternative to honey. Agave nectar is available in plastic squeeze bottles in all health food stores and in many high-end grocery stores.

Pomegranate molasses
Sometimes called pomegranate syrup or paste, this is a thick reduction of pomegranate juice with a slightly sweet edge. It is used as a flavoring in many Middle Eastern dishes. Bottles can be found wherever Middle Eastern groceries are sold. See Sources ([>]).

BASICS

Hard-cooked eggs
Place the eggs in a single layer in a deep saucepan and add water to cover. Bring to a gentle boil, uncovered, over medium heat. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, cover and let stand for 12 to 15 minutes, depending on the doneness you prefer. When the time has elapsed, pour off the hot water and rinse the eggs with cold water. Gently tap the eggs on the side of the pan until cracked and let them sit in a pan of cold water for 5 minutes, or until cool enough to handle. Gently peel off the shells.

Gremolata
Finely chop together 1 garlic clove, bruised with the side of a knife, 1 leafy sprig fresh Italian parsley and 1 strip (about ½ by 2 inches) lemon or orange zest. Use the blend to flavor soups, stews, vegetables, pilafs, beans and grains.

Pesto
Pesto can be made with a variety of fresh herbs, nuts and hard grating cheeses. This one is classic. Other versions appear throughout the book. Toast ½ cup pine nuts in a 325°F oven until golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Combine the pine nuts in a mortar with 1 garlic clove and ½ teaspoon coarse salt and pound into a paste with the pestle. Gradually pound in 2 to 3 cups torn basil leaves to make a rough paste. Work ½ cup olive oil into the paste with the pestle. Add ¼ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, or more to taste.

Variations Use a blend of herbs, mixing fresh basil, Italian parsley, mint, dill and/or arugula. Substitute toasted walnuts, almonds or pistachios for the pine nuts. Substitute Pecorino Romano for the Parmigiano-Reggiano. For a thicker sauce, use less oil; for a thinner sauce, use more oil or add water, 1 tablespoon at a time. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, make the pesto in a food processor, adding the oil in a slow, steady stream and stirring in the cheese. Makes 1 to 1½ cups.

Salsa verde
This tangy, piquant all-purpose green sauce is delicious on roasted or boiled russet or sweet potatoes and sliced tomatoes or spooned over rice or other grains and beans. In a food processor or blender, finely chop 2 cups loosely packed sprigs of fresh Italian parsley and a couple of fresh mint leaves, dill sprigs or basil leaves, ½ cup olive oil, ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, 1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped, 1 teaspoon coarse salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Taste the sauce and thin with cold wa ter if the lemon is too sharp, or add olive oil, 1 tablespoon at a time. Stir in 1 tablespoon rinsed and drained chopped capers, if desired.

Soy or tamari nuts
Combine ½ cup whole almonds or walnut or pecan halves or pieces and 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil in a heavy skillet. Cook on medium-high heat, stirring, until the nuts are lightly toasted and the skillet is hot enough to sizzle a drop of soy sauce or tamari, about 1 minute. Add 2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari and cook, stirring, adjusting the heat between medium and medium-low to keep the nuts from burning, un- til the nuts are coated, about 1 minute. Turn out onto an oiled plate to cool.

Toasting nuts
The quickest way is to spread the nuts in a small, heavy skillet and cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, for 2 to 5 minutes. If you have the oven on already, toast in a 350°F oven for 10 minutes. Watch pine nuts carefully because they brown quickly and often burn. It is safest to toast them in a 325°F oven until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Glazed nuts
Almonds, walnuts, pecans or a mix can be used to make glazed nuts. Spread 1 cup nuts in a skillet and stir over medium heat until the nuts are hot and beginning to color, about 3 minutes. Drizzle 3 tablespoons agave nectar (see [>]) over the nuts and boil, stirring, until they are coated and caramelized, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a lightly oiled plate and sprinkle with coarse salt. Let stand until hardened and break into pieces. For a variation, sprinkle the nuts with sesame seeds instead of salt.

Soups That Make a Meal

Cold Soups

Roasted Tomato Soup with Avocado [>]

Chilled Watermelon and Tomato Soup [>]

Hot Soups

White Bean and Fennel Soup [>]

Tomato and White Bean Soup with Spinach Pesto [>]

Lentil and Vegetable Soup with Smoked Paprika [>]

Red Lentil Soup with Coconut Milk and Toasted Cumin [>]

Lentil and Shiitake Soup with Leafy Greens [>]

Pureed Black Bean Soup with Piquillo Peppers [>]

Curried Chickpea Soup with Summer Vegetables [>]

Carrot, Sweet Potato and Ginger Soup with Baby Bok Choy [>]

Leek and Potato Soup with Roasted Cauliflower [>]

Winter Borscht [>]

Pumpkin and Tomato Soup with Cheese [>]

Farro and Kale Soup with Orange Gremolata [>]

Miso Soup with Spinach, Curried Tofu and Shiitake [>]

Curried Coconut-Squash Soup with Peanuts [>]

Vegetable, Black-Eyed Pea and Orzo Soup [>]

Vegetable Broth

Easy Basic Vegetable Broth [>]

Of all the meals I enjoy cooking, soup is my favorite. Soup-making technique is not etched in stone. The experience can be fluid, generous and spontaneous. You can follow a recipe or not.

Here are some quick tips to get you started.

• A large (5- to 8-quart capacity) wide pot with two opposing handles, often called a Dutch oven, works best for soup.
• The fresher the ingredients, the better the soup. Relegate limp and tired vegetables to the compost bin.
• Cook onions and other aromatic vegetables like celery, carrots and parsnips in olive oil over medium-low heat, stirring, until they are the color of straw. Golden vegetables add depth of flavor to the water, turning it into a deliciously light vegetarian broth.
• If you have a mishap and the vegetables turn black, throw them out. All the spices in the world can't mask burned vegetables. Take a deep breath and start over.
• Boxed and canned vegetable broths are inconsistent in flavor and therefore are not used in these recipes.
• Easy Basic Vegetable Broth ([>]) can be made ahead and frozen.
• If using garlic, add it after the vegetables are golden and cook briefly—1 to 2 minutes at the most—over low heat, to soften. Dark brown or burned garlic will contribute an off taste to the soup.
• Warm spices in olive oil over low heat, 1 to 2 minutes, perhaps with the garlic, if using. Warmed, lightly toasted spices release their flavor and add a full, complex taste to the soup.
• Dried herbs are twice as strong as their fresh counterparts and should be used sparingly. Add them to the hot broth or other liquid, where they will slowly rehydrate.
• Add fresh herbs at the end of the cooking time so they retain their bright, fresh taste. Stir half of them into the soup and use the remainder to sprinkle on top as a garnish.
• Take advantage of fresh seasonal ingredients when planning your soup menu: bright-tasting herbs, green beans, fresh tomatoes, corn, summer squash and tender greens in the spring and summer and hard-shelled winter squash varieties, tender carrots, apples, leeks and dark leafy greens in the fall and winter. Freshly harvested produce adds superior taste, along with wholesome nutrients.
• Tender fresh vegetables like zucchini, peas, green beans and greens should be added at the end of the cooking time so they keep their texture and subtle flavor.
• Taste, taste, taste. A balance of fat, acid and salt is essential for a satisfying dish. The fat adds a round, full flavor. Acid acts as a counterpoint to the fat, and salt balances the first two. Olive oil is my fat of choice. If a thick vegetable soup that began with olive oil needs a fuller flavor, I drizzle a half teaspoon of my best full-bodied olive oil on top. For the acid edge, I often add a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice, tomato paste, vinegar or chopped tomato. Salty additions include a spoonful of tamari or soy sauce, chopped olives or sun-dried tomatoes.
• For a hint or a big hit of heat, try a pinch of cayenne or crushed red pepper, a drop or two of hot pepper sauce, a half teaspoon of minced chipotle in adobo (it's hot!), minced jalapeño or a generous grinding of black pepper.
• If your soup is a little blah, it may simply need a squirt of fresh lemon or lime juice, an extra shower of finely chopped herb, a drizzle of olive oil or a swirl of yogurt.

TIPS FOR PUREED SOUPS

• Pureeing is a snap with a lightweight handheld immersion blender. This handy tool allows you to puree the soup directly in the pot, eliminating the need to transfer the soup back and forth and saving messy cleanup.
• Cool the soup slightly before pureeing in a blender or food processor. A boiling hot soup can expand and spill over dangerously. Be careful not to overfill. If the soup is warm, hold the lid down with a folded towel.
• For a smooth, ultracreamy soup, use a blender.
• An old-fashioned food mill will remove seeds and skins and produce a thicker-textured soup than a blender.

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP WITH AVOCADO Vegan

Serve this soup chilled in the summer and hot in the winter. Roasting tomatoes intensifies their fruity flavor and adds a hint of sweetness, which is especially welcome during the winter months, when tomatoes are often bland-tasting. The juices leach from the tomatoes while roasting and combine with the olive oil, giving the soup richness and a silky texture. Adjust the amount of jalapeño to your individual taste, adding more if you like your soup with a touch of fire and less if you prefer a mild bite. Keep in mind the soft, full flavor and texture of the avocado and the acid of the lime will help temper any excess heat from the chile.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Place a heavy baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 450°F for 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, toss the tomatoes, oil, cumin and 1 teaspoon salt in a large bowl.
3. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven and spread the tomatoes on the pan. With a rubber spatula, scrape the oil and seasonings from the bowl over the tomatoes. Roast the tomatoes for 15 minutes. Stir with a spatula, turning the tomatoes and moving them around on the pan so they'll roast evenly. Sprinkle with the garlic. Roast for 10 to 15 minutes more, or until the tomato juices begin to brown at the edges of the pan. Remove the pan from the oven.
4. Add 1 cup water to the hot pan and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom with the edge of the spatula to loosen. Transfer the tomatoes and all the liquid to a large bowl. Add the onion, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice and the jalapeño and puree with an immersion blender until very smooth. If you don't have an immersion blender, let the soup cool slightly, transfer it to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth.
5. If serving the soup cold, refrigerate, covered, until chilled, 1 to 2 hours or more. If serving the soup hot, transfer it to a soup pot and heat.
6. Because the juiciness of the tomatoes will vary, thin the soup, if necessary, adding the remaining water or broth as needed to reach the desired consistency. Taste and add ½ teaspoon more salt, 1 to 2 teaspoons more jalapeño and 1 tablespoon lime juice for heightened acidity.
7. Combine the avocados, the remaining 2 tablespoons lime juice and the cilantro in a small bowl. Divide the avocado mixture among four soup bowls and ladle the soup on top.

Make a Meal

If serving the soup chilled, accompany it with Green Bean, Corn, Tomato and Cucumber Salad ([>]). If serving the soup hot, pair it with Mexican Corn on the Cob ([>]) or Cumin Black Beans with Blistered Tomatoes and Corn ([>]).

CHILLED WATERMELON AND TOMATO SOUP Vegan

A riff on gazpacho—with watermelon sharing the stage with tomatoes—this soup is a welcome treat on a hot summer day. Try it in August, when tomatoes and watermelon are their sweetest and most flavorful.

Prep Time: About 20 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Cut enough tomatoes and melon into ¼-inch dice to measure 2 cups combined (1 cup of each). Place the fruit in a bowl large enough to accommodate all of the soup and refrigerate.
2. Cut the remaining tomatoes and melon into ¾-inch chunks. Puree in a blender, in batches if necessary. Add the ginger, jalapeño, chopped cilantro, lime juice and 1 teaspoon salt and puree until the mixture is smooth.
3. Add the puree to the refrigerated chunks of tomato and melon. Stir in the red onion and cucumber. Taste and add more lime juice, jalapeño and salt, if needed.
4. Refrigerate the soup until well chilled, at least 2 hours. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish each with a shower of torn cilantro.

Make a Meal

Serve with Shredded Tuscan Kale, Tomato and Avocado Salad ([>]) and Confetti Grain Salad ([>]).

WHITE BEAN AND FENNEL SOUP Vegan

White Bean and Fennel Soup ([>]) and Braised Swiss Chard with Pecorino Curls ([>])

Cannellini, fennel and sweet red onion make up one of my favorite salads, so I thought, Why not try them in a soup? The result is rich and satisfying.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Cut a thin slice from the base of the fennel bulb. Cut off and discard most of the green stalks. Finely chop 2 tablespoons of the fernlike tops and set aside. Use a vegetable peeler to remove any bruises from the outside ribs. Halve the fennel bulb lengthwise. Place cut side down and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices. Chop enough of the slices into ¼-inch pieces to measure 1 cup. Reserve the remaining fennel for another use.
2. Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of fennel. Add the chopped fennel bulb and cook, covered, over low heat, for 10 minutes. Do not brown. Add the 1 cup chopped onion and cook, covered, over low heat for 10 minutes more, or until both the fennel and onion are soft but not browned. Stir in the garlic.
3. Add 4 cups water, the beans, tomato paste, salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, over low heat for 15 minutes, or until the flavors are blended.
4. Combine the red onion, the reserved chopped fennel tops and the orange zest in a small bowl. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle the red onion mixture on top, dividing evenly. Drizzle each bowl of soup with about 1 teaspoon olive oil.

Make a Meal

Serve with Chopped Tomato, Celery and Kalamata Olive Salad ([>]) and Olive Bread Toasts ([>]) or Quick Melted Comté Cheese Crisps ([>]).

TOMATO AND WHITE BEAN SOUP WITH SPINACH PESTO Vegan (omit cheese from pesto)

My favorite beans for this soup are those I've taken the time to cook from scratch and stash in my freezer (see [>]), but good-quality canned beans are a great alternative.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

Spinach Pesto

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot over medium-low heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.
2. Add 3 cups water, the tomatoes, tomato paste, basil and 1 teaspoon salt; bring to a boil. For a creamier texture, mash half of the beans with a fork or potato masher. Stir the beans into the soup. Cover and cook over low heat for 20 minutes. Add a generous grinding of black pep per. Taste and correct the seasoning with more salt and pepper, but keep in mind the pesto will add lots of flavor to the soup.
3. Meanwhile, make the pesto: Spread the nuts in a small skillet and toast over medium-low heat, stirring, until they turn a light golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. By hand: Combine the nuts, garlic and salt in a large mortar and pound into a paste with the pestle. Add half of the spinach leaves and pound until reduced to a coarse paste. Repeat with the remaining spinach leaves. Gradually add the oil, stirring with the pestle. Stir in the cheese, if using. If using a blender or food processor, combine the nuts, garlic, salt and spinach and process to a coarse puree. With the motor running, add the oil in a slow, steady stream. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the cheese, if using.
4. To serve, ladle the hot soup into bowls. Add a generous spoonful of pesto to each and serve at once.

Shortcuts

• Substitute a good-quality prepared pesto (sold next to the fresh pasta sauces in many markets) for the Spinach Pesto.
• Alternatively, stir 1 bag (5–6 ounces) baby spinach into the hot soup before serving.

Substitutions
In place of the pesto, sprinkle each bowl of soup generously with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or orange gremolata (see [>]).

Make a Meal

Serve with Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>]) or Roasted Asparagus with Chopped Egg, Feta and Black Olives ([>]; omit the feta cheese if using Parmigiano-Reggiano in the pesto).

LENTIL AND VEGETABLE SOUP WITH SMOKED PAPRIKA Vegan (omit dairy topping)

Quick-cooking and versatile lentils make a great pot of soup. A good source of protein and fiber, they are filling and luscious. The smoked paprika adds a haunting aroma and taste, reminiscent of bacon.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onions and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add the carrots, celery and celery top, garlic and paprika and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened and coated with the seasonings, about 5 minutes.
2. Add 6 cups water, the lentils and bay leaf and bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, over medium-low heat until the lentils and vegetables are tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt and a grinding of black pepper. Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed.
3. Ladle the soup into bowls. Garnish each bowl with a swirl of yogurt or sour cream (if using) and a sprinkling of cilantro.

Make a Meal

Serve with Toasted Flatbread (Naan) with Blistered Cherry Tomatoes, Arugula and Red Onion ([>]) and Roasted Cauliflower "Steaks" ([>]).

RED LENTIL SOUP WITH COCONUT MILK AND TOASTED CUMIN Vegan

Although they are a pretty pale salmon color when dried, red lentils turn yellow when cooked. They also go from a solid when they hit the pot to an almost smooth puree in a matter of minutes. Red lentils are often used in a thin, spicy Indian "soup" called dal, whose flavors inspired this soup. The addition of coconut milk helps to balance the spices.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin and garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds.
2. Add 4 cups water and the lentils and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and cook, covered, stirring once or twice, until the lentils are very soft, about 20 minutes.
3. Stir in the coconut milk and heat through. Add 1 teaspoon salt and the jalapeño. Adjust the seasonings, adding more salt and jalapeño to taste. Stir in the lime juice.
4. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle each portion generously with cilantro.

Make a Meal

Serve with Stir-Fried Tofu with Oyster Mushrooms, Bell Peppers and Spinach ([>]).

LENTIL AND SHIITAKE SOUP WITH LEAFY GREENS Vegan

Lentils lend themselves to a wide variety of flavor combinations. Here the lentils are cooked in an excess of water, which becomes the broth on which the soup is based. Shiitake mushrooms sautéed in olive oil contribute a toasty taste. To keep the greens from overcooking, they are steamed separately and mounded in the center of each bowl before ladling over the hot soup.

Cook Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add the carrot, celery, garlic and ginger and stir to combine. Add 12 cups water and 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil.
2. Add the lentils and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender, 15 to 25 minutes.
3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet. Add the mushrooms and cook over medium heat, stirring, until golden, about 10 minutes. Sprinkle the mushrooms with salt and pepper to taste and let stand, off the heat, until needed.
4. Wash the Swiss chard and tear the leafy parts away from the thick center ribs. Reserve the ribs for another use. (You can chop and use them when making vegetable broth or an all-vegetable soup, or see the recipe for Swiss Chard Ribs Gratin, [>].) Roughly cut the torn leaves into 2- to 3-inch pieces. Place the leaves, with the water still clinging to them, in a large pot or deep skillet set over medium heat. Cover and cook until wilted and tender, about 5 minutes, depending on the maturity of the leaves. Uncover and set aside until the soup is ready to serve.
5. When the lentils are tender, stir in the mushrooms, tamari and tomato paste. Cook, uncovered, over low heat, stirring once or twice, for 5 minutes. Taste and add more tamari or salt and a grinding of black pepper, if needed.
6. To serve, place a mound of greens in each bowl and then ladle the soup over the greens.

Shortcuts
Large (16-ounce) bags of torn greens are available in the produce section of most markets. Many are a mixture of greens. Take advantage of their convenience. Although the package says "prewashed," I prefer to give the greens a quick rinse in a bowl of cold water and shake to remove excess moisture before cooking.

Make a Meal

Serve with Whole-Roasted Tomatoes with Warm Goat Cheese ([>]).

PUREED BLACK BEAN SOUP WITH PIQUILLO PEPPERS Vegan

The depth of flavor in this soup comes from meaty, rich-tasting black beans and the combination of piquillo peppers and smoky Spanish paprika, called Pimentón de la Vera. The salsa garnish is optional, but makes a pretty topping.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

Salsa (optional)

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and green pepper and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Stir in the paprika, 1 teaspoon salt, cumin and oregano and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds. Add 4 cups water, the black beans, tomatoes and tomato paste and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Stir in the piquillo peppers.
2. Puree the soup with an immersion blender. If you don't have an immersion blender, let the soup cool slightly, transfer it to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot and cook, covered, over low heat, for 15 minutes. Add additional salt to taste.
3. To make the salsa (if using): In a medium bowl, combine the piquillo peppers, onion, avocado, olive oil, lime juice, cilantro, jalapeño and salt.
4. Ladle the soup into bowls and float a rounded tablespoonful of the salsa, if using, in the center of each serving.

Shortcuts
Instead of making your own salsa, save time by using store-bought salsa. For the brightest, freshest flavors, pass over the jarred selection displayed near the chips and look in the refrigerated section of your supermarket. A variety of creative, fresh salsas are now available.

Make a Meal

Serve with Lemony Goat Cheese Spread ([>]) on toasted bread.

CURRIED CHICKPEA SOUP WITH SUMMER VEGETABLES Vegan

Chock-full of fresh vegetables, this hearty soup gets high marks for its many nutritional benefits. You can use fresh tomatoes, but since they need to be peeled, I prefer good-quality canned tomatoes. Although this soup requires extra time for chopping all the vegetables, the cooking time is supershort.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of vegetable. Add the celery, carrot and onion and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the curry powder and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 1 minute.
2. Add 4 cups water, the tomatoes, chickpeas and basil sprig and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes.
3. Add the green beans and cook for 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and summer squash and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the peas, orange zest and salt and pepper to taste and cook until the peas are heated through, about 1 minute. Retrieve and discard the basil sprig.
4. Stack the basil leaves and cut them into thin strips. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish each bowl with basil.

Make a Meal

Serve with bruschetta with Braised Swiss Chard with Pecorino Curls ([>]) or Roasted Red Pepper and Walnut Spread ([>]) or Cheese and Mushroom Melts ([>]).

CARROT, SWEET POTATO AND GINGER SOUP WITH BABY BOK CHOY Vegan

Carrot, Sweet Potato and Ginger Soup with Baby Bok Choy ([>])

Carrots and sweet potatoes make for sweet silkiness in this smooth, creamy, dairy-free soup. Hefty additions of fresh ginger and jalapeño contribute the right hit of heat and create a sophisticated flavor profile. To keep the juicy crunch of the bok choy, add it just before serving.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of vegetable. Add the carrots, sweet potatoes, scallions, celery, garlic, ginger and 2 teaspoons salt. Cook, covered, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until lightly browned and softened, about 10 minutes. Add 6 cups water and 2 tablespoons of the cilantro and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat until the vegetables are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Ladle out about 2 cups of the solid vegetables and set aside. Use an immersion blender to puree the soup in the pot. If you don't have an immersion blender, let the soup cool slightly, transfer it to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot.
3. Add the reserved vegetables, lime juice and jalapeño. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Bring the soup to a boil. Stir in the bok choy and cook for 30 seconds. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with the remaining 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro.

Shortcuts
If you can find real baby carrots, use them. Leave the thin skins on and cut the carrots into 1½-inch pieces. Instead of peeling the sweet potatoes, scrub them with a stiff brush. Their skins soften when cooked.

Make a Meal

Serve with Curried Quinoa and Apple Salad with Dried Cranberries ([>]).

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP WITH ROASTED CAULIFLOWER Vegan

You'd swear this thick, creamy soup is loaded with dairy, but it isn't. Through the magic of pureeing, leeks, potatoes and roasted cauliflower take on the consistency of a cream soup. Two surprise ingredients—a touch of curry powder and some grated orange zest—add a subtle sweetness that helps to smooth out the vegetative quality of the soup.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Place a heavy baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 450°F for 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, toss the cauliflower in a bowl with 3 tablespoons of the oil, 1 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of black pepper.
3. Carefully remove the hot pan from the oven and spread the cauliflower florets on the pan. Roast the cauliflower for 10 minutes. Stir with a spatula, turning the florets and moving them around on the pan so they'll roast evenly. Roast until browned and tender, about 10 minutes more.
4. Meanwhile, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and the leeks in a soup pot. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the leeks are wilted, about 10 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add 6 cups water, the potatoes and tomato paste. Cover and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes.
5. Combine the oregano, orange zest and garlic in a small bowl. Stir into the roasted cauliflower.
6. When the potatoes are tender, add half of the seasoned roasted cauliflower to the soup and puree with an immersion blender. If you don't have an immersion blender, let the soup cool slightly, transfer it to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot. Taste and add more salt and a generous grinding of black pepper if needed.
7. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Divide the remaining roasted cauliflower florets among the soup bowls and serve at once.

Shortcuts
Use bags of precut cauliflower florets in place of the cauliflower head. For best results, soak the florets in a bowl of ice water for 10 minutes to refresh them before roasting.

Make a Meal

Serve with Spinach, Avocado and Chopped-Egg Salad ([>]) and crostini with Rosemary-Fennel White Bean Spread ([>]).

WINTER BORSCHT Vegan (omit dairy topping)

One trip to Russia and many bowls of delicious borscht later, I was inspired to create my own version of this iconic beet soup, modeled after an especially aromatic version made with caramelized apples. Although the list of ingredients is long, you can pare it down if you'd like. Use your discretion and what's in your larder, but don't forgo the orange zest. It adds a fresh, bright taste to the mélange of vegetables.

Cook Time: 45 minutes
Serves: 8 with leftovers

1. If your beets have tops, remove them, cutting the stems close to the beets. Set the tops aside. Scrub the beets or peel them if the skins are thick. Cut 3 of the beets into ¼-inch dice and set aside. Coarsely shred the remaining beets on a box grater or the wide shredding attachment of a food processor. Set the beets aside.
2. Wash the beet tops in two or three changes of water to make sure they are grit-free. Pull the large leafy parts off the thick center stems and discard the stems, or reserve for broth. Coarsely chop the beet greens until you have 2 cups and set aside. Reserve the leftovers for braised greens (see Braising, [>] and Swiss Chard with Fragrant Garlic and Salt, [>]).
3. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of vegetable. Add the leek, parsnip or carrot and fennel or celery and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the vegetables are soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the reserved diced and shredded beets, 6 cups water, the tomatoes and 2 teaspoons salt and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, for 20 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, place the potatoes in a separate saucepan. Cover the potatoes with water, add a pinch of salt and boil until fork-tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on their size. Drain the water. Let stand, covered, until ready to serve.
5. Add the cabbage, apple, dill, orange zest and a generous grinding of black pepper to the soup pot. Cook, covered, stirring once or twice, over medium heat for 10 ® minutes, or until the vegetables are wilted. Add the reserved beet greens, if using, 5 minutes before serving.
6. When the soup is hot, stir in the vinegar. Taste and adjust the salt, pepper and vinegar. Place a hot potato in each bowl and halve or quarter it. Ladle the soup over the potatoes and garnish each bowl with a spoonful of sour cream, yogurt or crème fraîche (if using) and a generous sprinkling of chopped dill.

Shortcuts
To save time, use the conveniently precooked and peeled beets available in some markets and skip steps 1 and 2. Dice half of the beets and shred the rest. Add them to the soup in step 3 halfway through the cooking time, then proceed with the recipe, omitting the addition of the beet greens.

Make a Meal

Serve with thick toasted slices of crusty whole-grain bread, perhaps smeared with Multi-Mushroom Pâté ([>]). If your beets have no greens, consider serving Swiss Chard with Fragrant Garlic and Salt ([>]) or Stir-Fried Asian Greens with Crisp Golden Garlic ([>]).

PUMPKIN AND TOMATO SOUP WITH CHEESE

The unlikely combination of pumpkin and tomatoes makes a delightfully easy soup. This version uses canned pumpkin, but if you happen to have some fresh winter squash or blocks of frozen squash in the freezer, you can use that instead (see Substitutions). The soup's flavors are rounded out with the addition of cumin and a generous topping of shredded cheese. Omit the cheese for a vegan variation.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-low heat until the onion is golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cumin and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
2. Add the tomatoes, pumpkin, 2½ cups water, tomato paste and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil and cook, covered, over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Uncover and cool slightly. Puree the soup with an immersion blender. If you don't have an immersion blender, transfer the soup to a blender or food processor, in batches if necessary, and puree until smooth. Return the soup to the pot. Add additional water to thin the soup if necessary.
3. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes. Stir in the lime juice. Add more salt, if needed, and black pepper to taste. Ladle the soup into bowls and divide the cheese among the bowls, mounding it in the center of each serving, or add a dollop of yogurt or crème fraîche. Serve at once.

Vegan Variation
Make a batch of Crispy Kale ([>]) and sprinkle a handful on top of each bowl of soup instead of the cheese topping.

Substitutions
To make this soup truly fresh (though not fast), substitute roasted butternut or kabocha squash for the pumpkin. You will need 2½ to 3 cups mashed cooked squash. To save preparation time, roast the squash a day or two ahead and refrigerate until ready to use. Or you can use 2 boxes (14 ounces each) frozen pureed squash, thawed, or 2 bags (10 to 12 ounces each) fresh squash chunks, cooked in the soup until tender.

Make a Meal

Serve with Toasted Flatbread (Naan) with Goat Cheese, Sautéed Greens and Crispy Shallots ([>]; omit the goat cheese spread if garnishing the soup with cheese) or bruschetta with Braised Swiss Chard ([>]; omit the cheese) and/or Pan-Seared Brussels Sprouts with Hazelnuts ([>]).

FARRO AND KALE SOUP WITH ORANGE GREMOLATA Vegan

This flavorful soup is elegant enough to serve in shallow bowls as a starter and hearty enough to ladle into deep bowls to offer as a main course. As a nonvegan bonus, simmer chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano in the soup. As they cook, the hard rinds soften and turn chewy, becoming soft morsels to savor. If you have a batch of homemade vegetable broth on hand, use it here, but otherwise use water.

Cook Time: 35 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

Orange Gremolata

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until it is golden, about 10 minutes. Add the carrots, celery, celery leaves and half of the garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add the water and/or vegetable broth. Stir in the farro, tomato, 1 teaspoon salt and the bay leaf and bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the farro is tender, about 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil and the remaining garlic over medium-low heat in a large skillet until sizzling (do not brown). Immediately add the kale. Drizzle the kale with 2 tablespoons water and toss to coat. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the leaves are tender, 8 to 12 minutes, depending on their maturity and tenderness. Add the cooked kale and any liquid in the bottom of the skillet to the soup. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Thin the soup with broth or water if it is too thick.
3. To make the orange gremolata: Gather the parsley, orange zest and garlic together and chop until the pieces are very fine.
4. To serve, ladle the soup into bowls. Drizzle olive oil on top. Sprinkle with the gremolata and serve at once.

Substitutions

• Add 1¾ cups cooked or canned cannellini or other white beans, rinsed and drained, along with the kale.
• In place of the farro, you can use quick-cooking barley.

Make a Meal

Serve with crostini or bruschetta spread with Broccoli, Dill and Lemon Spread ([>]) and one of the options from Mixed Greens with Dried or Fresh Fruit and Cheese ([>]).

MISO SOUP WITH SPINACH, CURRIED TOFU AND SHIITAKE Vegan

Nothing like the austere but nonetheless comforting miso that you'll find in a Japanese restaurant or your neighborhood vegetarian gathering place, this is a thoroughly westernized version, hearty with rice, spinach, tofu and shiitake mushrooms and flavored with curry. Miso—fermented soybean paste—is sold in 16-ounce plastic containers in the refrigerated section of many supermarkets, next to the tofu.

Cook Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Place the tofu slices on a folded dish towel and cover with a second folded towel. Press down gently but firmly with the palm of your hand to extract some of the moisture. Cut the tofu into ½-inch cubes and set aside.
2. In a large pot, bring 6 cups water to a slow boil over medium heat. Add the miso and gently stir until dissolved. Keep warm over low heat.
3. Heat a large skillet over medium heat until it is hot enough to sizzle and evaporate a drop of water. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a slice of mushroom. Add the mushrooms and ½ teaspoon of the curry powder and cook, stirring, ad justing the heat to maintain a steady sizzle, until the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes. Add the mush rooms to the soup.
4. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the skillet and heat over medium heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of tofu. Add the tofu to the hot oil. Sprinkle with the remaining ½ teaspoon curry powder and cook, turning with a spatula, until browned on at least two sides, about 2 minutes per side. As the tofu browns, add it to the soup.
5. Add the spinach, rice and tamari to the soup and heat through. Ladle the soup into bowls and sprinkle with the scallions.

Make a Meal

Serve with Crisp-Cooked Savoy Cabbage with Asian Flavors ([>]) and Broccoli and Red Onion Stir-Fry with Tamari Walnuts ([>]).

CURRIED COCONUT-SQUASH SOUP WITH PEANUTS Vegan

Rich and creamy canned coconut milk and convenient blocks of frozen pureed winter squash make a luscious soup spiked with curry powder, fresh ginger and cayenne. Chopped peanuts add a welcome crunch to every steaming spoonful.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Sprinkle the curry powder in a soup pot and heat, stirring, over low heat for 1 minute. Add the squash, coconut milk, ginger, tamari, ½ teaspoon salt and cayenne. Bring to a simmer, stirring, over medium heat. Cover and cook over low heat for 10 minutes.
2. Add the lime juice, scallions and jalapeño. Taste and correct the seasonings with more lime juice and salt, if needed.
3. Crush the peanuts with a mortar and pestle or finely chop. Ladle the hot soup into bowls. Garnish each bowl with a sprinkling of peanuts and cilantro.

Make a Meal

Serve with crostini with Beet and Tahini Puree ([>]) and a side dish of Green and Yellow Wax Beans with Almond Pesto ([>]) and Toasted Flatbread (Naan) with Goat Cheese, Sautéed Greens and Crispy Shallots ([>]; omit the fried shallots, if you like).

VEGETABLE, BLACK-EYED PEA AND ORZO SOUP Vegan (omit the cheese topping)

Think of this as a version of minestrone, with frozen black-eyed peas, orzo, Kalamata olives, dried oregano and lemon zest giving it a Greek twist. To extend the theme, top each steaming bowl of soup with crumbled feta. If you don't have the precooked vegetables from the broth on hand, follow the "from scratch" recipe.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Bring the broth to a boil in a soup pot. Add the black-eyed peas and the orzo and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the orzo and peas are both soft to the bite, about 20 minutes.
2. Add the cooked vegetables, olives, oregano and lemon zest and cook over medium-low heat for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. To serve, ladle the warm soup into bowls and sprinkle each with about 2 tablespoons crumbled feta, if using.

Variation
"From-Scratch" Vegetable, Black-Eyed Pea and Orzo Soup: Cook the vegetables in oil as instructed in step 1 of Easy Basic Vegetable Broth ([>]). Add 6 cups (instead of 9 cups) water and simmer for about 20 minutes. Scoop the vegetables out of the broth with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add the orzo and black-eyed peas to the broth as instructed in step 1 of the soup recipe and proceed.

Make a Meal

Serve with Twice-Cooked Broccoli Rabe with Red Pepper and Garlic Oil ([>]).

EASY BASIC VEGETABLE BROTH Vegan

Quick, easy and great to have on hand in the freezer, this vegetable broth is far better than the boxed broths on supermarket shelves. It's based on staple aromatic vegetables—onions, carrots, celery, and garlic—but if I have shiitake mushrooms or Swiss chard stems in the freezer, a few green beans, a chunk of parsnip, a piece of zucchini or other unassertive-tasting vegetables, I add them to the pot. Avoid strongly flavored vegetables like cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower or turnips. Often I save bits and pieces of vegetables in a zip-top plastic freezer bag and add those too. Sometimes I rescue the vegetables and give them another life in a second soup (see Vegetable, Black-Eyed Pea and Orzo Soup, [>]).

Cook Time: 45 minutes
Makes 8 cups

1. Heat the oil in a soup pot until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onions and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the onions are golden, about 10 minutes. Add the celery, carrots, parsley and garlic and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
2. Add 9 cups water, the tomatoes (if using), shiitake stems or mushrooms (if using), bay leaf, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low so that the broth maintains a slow boil and cook, uncovered, for about 30 minutes.
3. Cool the broth. Place a strainer over a big bowl and carefully pour the broth through the strainer. Reserve the vegetables (see headnote). Divide the broth among freezer containers, label and freeze for 2 to 3 months or until needed.

Main and Side-Dish Salads

Main-Dish Salads

Red Rice Salad with Edamame, Tamari Walnuts and Ginger [>]

Black Rice, Mango and Sugar Snap Pea Salad [>]

Tomatoes and Potatoes with Avocado-Dill Dressing [>]

Toasted Bulgur, Tomato and Feta Salad [>]

Soba Noodle Salad with Snow Peas [>]

Toasted Quinoa, Corn and Avocado Salad [>]

Middle Eastern Bread Salad [>]

Side-Dish Salads

Green Bean, Corn, Tomato and Cucumber Salad [>]

Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint [>]

Spinach, Avocado and Chopped-Egg Salad [>]

Shredded Tuscan Kale, Tomato and Avocado Salad [>]

Shredded Tuscan Kale Salad with Tamari and Sesame [>]

Summer Tomato and Olive Bread Salad [>]

Cabbage, Pineapple and Peanut Salad [>]

Curried Quinoa and Apple Salad with Dried Cranberries [>]

Salad Dressings

Basic Vinaigrette [>]

Japanese Rice Vinaigrette with Ginger [>]

Vegetarian salads offer, in one bold, often brilliant stroke, all the elements that any good meal requires: crisp texture, bright color, juiciness and contrasting sweet and acid notes. Add to that the zing of a tangy dressing, a hint of salt and the comforting crunch of nuts or seeds, and you have all sorts of possibilities.

Keep in mind that the base of your salad—lettuce, spinach and other leafy greens—is primarily comprised of water. That moisture begins to evaporate once the greens are picked and continues as they are transported from the field, to the warehouse, to the market and, finally, to your vegetable bin. But you can reverse the dehydration at least partially by giving the greens a good soaking in cold water. The result is the starting point for a fresh, crisp, delicious salad.

SALAD TIPS

• Soak the greens in cold water in a salad spinner with the basket in place. When they are crisp, lift out the basket, drain the excess water, return the basket to the bowl and spin the greens dry. Use immediately or refrigerate in the salad spinner. Alternatively, you can soak the greens in a large bowl of cold water with a handful of ice cubes for at least 10 minutes. To dry, shake them in a colander, then wrap them in a clean towel or whirl in a salad spinner.
• Bags of baby spinach and other greens are time-saving, but they should be washed and crisped in ice water before using.
• Head lettuce and other greens from farmers' markets can be gritty. Swish in a large bowl of warm water to relax the leaves and free the sand from any crevices. Crisp and refresh in a second bath of ice water.
• Always lift greens out of the rinse water, so you leave behind any grit and the dirty water in the bowl.
• Jazz up your salads with torn leaves of fresh herbs like dill, mint and basil.
• Boost the protein and bulk up your salad with a handful of toasted nuts or seeds, crumbled cheese or chopped hard-cooked eggs (see [>]).
• Grain salads absorb the flavors in dressing quickly. Make a double batch of dressing but add only half at a time, increasing the amount as you taste and evaluate the flavors. The secret is to taste and correct the seasonings right up to serving.

QUICK HITS FOR SALADS

Crispy Chickpeas
These multi-use crisp chickpeas are great for snacking or sprinkling on top of green salads, grain salads or pilafs. They are best eaten freshly made, since they lose their crunch as they stand. Place a large baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 450°F for 10 minutes. Rinse and drain 1 can (15–16 ounces) chickpeas, spread the chickpeas on a folded towel and blot dry. Whisk 1 egg white in a bowl until frothy. Add the chick peas to the egg white and toss to coat. Turn out the chickpeas onto the towel and blot to re move any excess egg. Place the chickpeas in a bag with ¼ cup all-purpose flour and ¼ teaspoon cayenne and shake to coat. Carefully remove the heated pan from the oven and add 3 tablespoons olive oil. Spread the chickpeas on the hot pan and roast, stirring occasionally, until crisp and golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. To recrisp, spread them on a baking sheet and place in a 400°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes.

MIXED GREENS WITH DRIED OR FRESH FRUIT AND CHEESE

Toss 4 to 6 cups lightly packed torn greens with Basic Vinaigrette ([>]). Toss in one of the following combinations of dried or fresh fruit and nuts or cheese:

Dates, Pistachio and Feta
½ cup snipped pitted dates, 2 tablespoons toasted pistachios and ½ cup cold crumbled feta cheese (preferably mild French).

Dried Apricot, Glazed Walnuts and Stilton
½ cup thin strips dried apricots, ¼ cup glazed walnuts (see [>]) and ½ cup cold crumbled Stilton cheese.

Fresh Apple, Hazelnuts and Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 large or 2 small crisp Fuji or other apples, cut into 16 paper-thin slices, ¼ cup chopped toasted and peeled hazelnuts and curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Substitute hazelnut oil for the olive oil and use lemon juice in the vinaigrette.

Fresh Pear, Walnuts and Comté
1 large ripe Bartlett pear, cut into 16 paper-thin slices, ½ cup toasted walnut pieces and curls of Comté cheese. Substitute walnut oil for the olive oil and use lemon juice in the vinaigrette.

Fresh Peach, Toasted Almonds and Manchego
1 large peach, peeled, or nectarine, unpeeled, cut into 16 thin (¼-inch) slices, or 8 small ripe apricots, halved or quartered, ¼ cup toasted sliced skin-on almonds and curls of Manchego cheese. If available, substitute Marcona almonds imported from Spain for the sliced almonds.

TOMATO SALADS

During tomato season, enjoy meaty plum (Roma) tomatoes in mixed salads and juicy round tomatoes in sliced or composed salads. Brightly flavored, acidic tomatoes stand up to richer, bolder-flavored olive oils. This is the time to invest in a big, fruity olive oil, often called "finishing" oil.

Tomato and Mint Salad
Toss 2 to 3 cups firm, ripe tomato wedges with ¼ cup finely chopped fresh mint, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 grated garlic clove and ½ teaspoon coarse salt. Taste, and if the salad needs a kick, splash on 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice or mild fruit wine vinegar. If preferred, substitute chopped fresh tarragon or dill or torn fresh basil leaves for the mint.

Tomato and Cannellini Salad
Toss 2 to 3 cups diced (½ inch) ripe tomatoes with 1 can (15–16 ounces) cannellini, rinsed and drained, ½ cup chopped fennel or celery, ½ cup chopped sweet onion, ¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar and ½ teaspoon coarse salt.

Tomato, Corn and Cilantro Salad
Toss 2 to 3 cups firm, ripe tomato wedges with 1 cup fresh raw corn kernels, ¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro, 2 tablespoons extravirgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice, 1 grated garlic clove, 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded jalapeño pepper and ½ teaspoon coarse salt.

Chopped Tomato, Celery and Kalamata Olive Salad
Toss 2 to 3 cups cubed firm, ripe tomatoes, ½ cup sliced (½ inch) celery, ¼ cup chopped pitted Kalamata or cracked Sicilian green olives, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves, 1 grated garlic clove, ½ teaspoon coarse salt, a pinch of dried oregano and a generous grinding of black pepper. Taste, and if the salad needs a kick, splash on 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice or mild fruit wine vinegar.

OTHER SALADS

Warm New Potato Salad with White Wine and Scallions
Cook 1½ pounds quartered or halved small new red potatoes until tender. Drain, and while the potatoes are still hot, toss in a bowl with ½ cup dry white wine, ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, ½ cup thin-sliced scallions (white and green parts), 1 teaspoon coarse salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. The potatoes will absorb the wine and olive oil as they stand. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Chickpea Salad with Celery, Lemon and Herbs
Rinse and drain 1 can (15–16 ounces) chickpeas, spread on a folded towel and blot dry. Toss the chickpeas with ½ cup each chopped (about the size of a chickpea) celery and red onion, ¼ cup chopped celery leaves, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and 1 tablespoon each finely chopped fresh Italian parsley, oregano, dill, mint, or basil or any combination of fresh herbs to equal ¼ cup. Season with ½ teaspoon coarse salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Add 2 cups shredded romaine leaves, mixed salad greens or torn crinkly spinach leaves and toss to combine.

Black Bean and Mango Salad
Rinse and drain 1 can (15–16 ounces) black beans and toss with 1 mango, diced, ¼ cup sliced scallions (white and green parts) or chopped red onion, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons lime juice and 1 teaspoon finely chopped seeded jalapeño pepper. Season with ¼ teaspoon coarse salt and a generous grinding of black pepper.

CONFETTI GRAIN SALADS

Leftover cooked grains make great quick salads. To 2 to 3 cups cooked rice, quinoa, bulgur, couscous, farro (see [>]) or other grain, add 1 to 2 cups chopped vegetables. Select a maximum of 3 or 4 from the following, mixing and matching according to the season and compatibility: raw corn kernels, thawed frozen or cooked fresh peas, cooked and cooled frozen shelled edamame (green soybeans), chopped carrot, red, yellow or green bell pepper, red onion, scallions (white and green parts), celery, fennel, cucumbers and any number of other vegetables. Add ¼ to ½ cup chopped toasted nuts, seeds or raisins or snipped dried fruit.

Brown Rice, Scallion and Peanut Salad
Combine 2 to 3 cups cooked brown rice, ½ cup thin-sliced scallions (white and green parts), ½ cup chopped carrot and ½ cup chopped dry-roasted unsalted peanuts. Toss with Japanese Rice Vinaigrette with Ginger ([>]). Top with chopped fresh cilantro or dill.

Arborio Rice, Green Pea and Toasted Pine Nut Salad
Combine 2 to 3 cups freshly cooked warm Arborio rice, 1 cup thawed frozen green peas and ¼ cup toasted pine nuts. Toss with Basic Vinaigrette ([>]) made with red wine vinegar.

RED RICE SALAD WITH EDAMAME, TAMARI WALNUTS AND GINGER Vegan

Pan-Seared Baby Bok Choy ([>]) and Red Rice Salad with Edamame, Tamari Walnuts and Ginger ([>])

The earthy flavors of Bhutanese red rice complement the sweet nutty taste of the green soybeans (edamame) and the soy-coated walnuts. Look for shelled edamame; the unshelled are too time-consuming to peel. If they are unavailable, see Substitutions below.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

Tamari Walnuts

Rice Vinaigrette

1. Bring a medium saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the edamame and salt and simmer until the edamane are tender, about 3 minutes. Remove the edamame from the boiling water with a perforated spoon or skimmer and place in a strainer. Rinse with cold water and set aside to cool. Add the rice to the boiling water and cook until the grains are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain in a strainer. Rinse with cold water and set aside to cool.
2. To make the tamari walnuts: Combine the walnuts and oil in a heavy skillet over medium-high heat and cook, stirring, until the skillet is hot enough to sizzle a drop of tamari, about 1 minute. Add the tamari and boil, stirring and adjusting the heat between medium and medium-low, until the walnuts are glazed with the thickened tamari, about 1 minute. Turn the walnuts out onto a plate to cool.
3. To make the vinaigrette: Whisk the oil, rice vinegar, ginger, garlic and salt in a large bowl until blended.
4. Add the rice, edamame, scallions and jalapeño to the dressing and toss to coat. Sprinkle with the walnuts and cilantro or dill. Serve at room temperature.

Substitutions

• You can use 2 cups broccoli florets in place of the edamame.
• If red rice is not available, substitute medium- or long-grain brown rice. You can also use a combination of red, Forbidden Rice (see [>]) and brown rice.

Make a Meal

Delicious with Cabbage, Pineapple and Peanut Salad ([>]) and Broccoli and Red Onion Stir-Fry with Tamari Walnuts ([>]). Rather than featuring nuts in both dishes, make a choice between the tamari walnuts in the rice salad or the peanuts in the cabbage salad.

BLACK RICE, MANGO AND SUGAR SNAP PEA SALAD Vegan

Black Rice, Mango and Sugar Snap Pea Salad ([>])

Black rice studded with sunny orange squares of ripe mango and bright green sugar snaps makes a stunning presentation. The best rice to use for this salad is the Chinese black rice marketed as Forbidden Rice (see [>]). Unlike the more typical Japonica black rice, which has a round grain that cooks up soft and sticky, Forbidden Rice has a long grain with a less starchy consistency, making it perfect for savory dishes. If Forbidden Rice is not available, make this salad with brown or white basmati rice.

Cook Time: 25 minutes
Serves: 4

Sesame and Tamari Dressing

1. Bring a medium saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the sugar snaps and salt and simmer until tender, about 1 minute. Remove the sugar snaps from the boiling water with a perforated spoon or skimmer and place in a strainer. Rinse with cold water and set aside to cool. Add the rice to the boiling water and cook until the grains are tender, about 25 minutes. Drain in a strainer. Rinse with cold water and set aside to cool.
2. To make the sesame and tamari dressing: Whisk the vinegar, oil, tamari, sesame oil, ginger, garlic and salt in a large bowl.
3. Add the cooled rice, sugar snaps, mango, red onion and 2 tablespoons of the cilantro to the dressing and gently toss to combine. Spoon the rice salad onto a platter and sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons cilantro and the sesame seeds.

Shortcuts
Look for stringless sugar snap peas, which take less time to trim.

Make a Meal

Start with one of the Asian-flavored soups: Carrot, Sweet Potato and Ginger Soup with Baby Bok Choy ([>]) or Miso Soup with Spinach, Curried Tofu and Shiitake ([>]). This salad is also excellent with Cabbage, Pineapple and Peanut Salad ([>]) or Green Bean, Corn, Tomato and Cucumber Salad ([>]).

TOMATOES AND POTATOES WITH AVOCADO-DILL DRESSING

Tomatoes and Potatoes with Avocado-Dill Dressing ([>])

This is a satisfying and pretty salad created by a friend. It was Lynda Barber's brilliant idea to spread half of the avocado dressing on the plate as a bed for the potatoes, tomatoes and salad greens and then dollop the remaining dressing on top. The important flavor here is dill—lots of it. Thin-sliced red onion and quartered hard-cooked eggs are optional but delicious additions.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 as a main dish or 8 as a side dish

Avocado-Dill Dressing

1. Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil and cook, covered, over medium heat until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a skewer, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on their size. Rinse with cold water and drain. Set the potatoes aside and cool to lukewarm. When cool enough to handle, remove the skins and cut the potatoes into thick (¼- to ½-inch) slices.
2. To make the dressing: Combine the avocado, mayonnaise, yogurt, cucumber, dill, scallions, lemon juice, salt and cayenne in a food processor. Process until smooth.
3. Spread half of the avocado dressing on a large serving platter. Layer the sliced potatoes on top of the dress ing and top with the cucumber slices. Distribute the salad greens over the potatoes and cucumbers and top with overlapping tomato slices and onion slices, if using. Place the eggs, if using, around the edge of the platter.
4. Spoon a dollop of the remaining avocado dressing on top of each tomato slice. Reserve the remaining dressing to serve on the side. Sprinkle the salad with the dill and add salt and pepper to taste.

Make a Meal

This salad is a meal in itself, but make it a feast with the addition of crunchy store-bought sesame breadsticks or a basket of Quick Melted Comté Cheese Crisps ([>]) and a bowl of radishes with a dish of coarse salt for dipping.

TOASTED BULGUR, TOMATO AND FETA SALAD

Middle Eastern in origin, bulgur is best known as the grain used in tabbouleh salad. Here I put my own twist on tabbouleh by toasting the bulgur and adding pine nuts browned in olive oil and three different fresh herbs along with tomato and feta cheese. Allow at least 20 minutes to soak the bulgur.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

Dressing

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the bulgur on a baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, stirring once, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bulgur to a bowl. Add 1½ cups boiling water, 1 tablespoon of the oil and the salt and stir to blend. Let stand, covered tightly, until all the water is absorbed, about 20 minutes.
2. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the oil, lemon juice, garlic and salt until blended. Set aside.
3. Combine the pine nuts and the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a small skillet and cook over low heat, stirring, until they are browned, about 5 minutes.
4. Finely chop the mint, dill and parsley in a food processor. Combine the bulgur, dressing, herbs, tomatoes, cucumber and onion and toss to blend. Spoon onto a large platter and garnish with the feta cheese, pine nuts and olives, if using. Serve at room temperature.

Shortcuts
If time doesn't allow, skip the bulgur-toasting step. See directions for cooking bulgur, [>].

Substitutions
In place of the pine nuts, use chopped walnuts. I also like to add 1 tablespoon sesame seeds.

Make a Meal

Serve with Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>]) or a half recipe of Middle Eastern Bread Salad ([>]), cutting the amount of the herbs in half so as not to overwhelm the palate.

SOBA NOODLE SALAD WITH SNOW PEAS Vegan

Soba Noodle Salad with Snow Peas ([>])

Soba, the Japanese buckwheat noodles most often served in both hot and chilled broths, appear here in a salad. They are widely available, usually sold in boxes or plastic bags in the Asian section of the supermarket. I've kept the vegetable additions basic, but feel free to put in slivered radishes for more color or to substitute slivered green beans for the snow peas.

Cook Time: 5 minutes
Serves: 4

Dressing

1. Bring a medium saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the snow peas and salt and simmer until crisp-tender, about 1 minute. Remove the snow peas from the boiling water with a perforated spoon or skimmer and place in a bowl of ice water. Add the noodles to the boiling water and cook until tender, 3 to 4 minutes. Drain the noodles in a strainer. Rinse with cold water. Transfer the noodles to a bowl and toss with the sesame oil. Refrigerate until ready to mix with other ingredients.
2. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the rice vinegar, oil, tamari, ginger, garlic and salt until blended.
3. Drain the snow peas and pat dry. Add the snow peas, scallions, carrot, cucumber and half of the sesame seeds to the soba noodles. Add the dressing and toss with your hands to thoroughly blend. Top with the remaining sesame seeds. Serve cold.

Substitutions

• Substitute diagonally sliced asparagus, 1-inch lengths of green beans or whole sugar snap peas (cooked until crisp-tender using the same technique as in this recipe) for the snow peas.
• Sesame seeds (an excellent source of protein) are the garnish of choice, but feel free to substitute peanuts, almonds or other nuts.

Make a Meal

The noodles are delicious with one of the shredded Tuscan kale salads ([>] and [>]) or with Miso Soup with Spinach, Curried Tofu and Shiitake ([>]).

TOASTED QUINOA, CORN AND AVOCADO SALAD Vegan

Toasted Quinoa, Corn and Avocado Salad ([>])

The nutty taste and irresistible crunch of toasted quinoa make it a natural for a refreshing, yet hearty, main-dish salad. Here I dress it with a favorite dressing of toasted ground cumin and lots of lime juice.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4 as a main dish or 8 as a side dish

Jalapeño Dressing

1. Rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer under cold running water for at least 45 seconds. Shake the strainer to remove as much water as possible.
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add the rinsed quinoa and cook, stirring, over medium heat until it is a light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add 2 cups water and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is translucent and appears to be uncoiling, 18 to 20 minutes. Let stand, covered, until cool, about 10 minutes.
3. To make the dressing: Sprinkle the cumin in a small skillet and toast over medium-low heat, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker in color, about 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. When the skillet is cool to the touch, add the oil, lime juice, jalapeño, garlic and salt. Transfer to a large bowl and whisk to blend.
4. Add the cooled quinoa, corn, tomatoes and scallions to the dressing and toss to blend. Spoon the salad onto a large platter and sprinkle the avocado and cilantro on top.

Shortcuts
You can toast a large batch of quinoa ahead of time. Store at room temperature in a tightly closed container. It will keep for 3 or more months. Use in main dishes, side dishes or other salads.

Make a Meal

Serve with Tomato and Mint Salad ([>]) or with a platter of thick-sliced tomatoes drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt.

MIDDLE EASTERN BREAD SALAD Vegan

This is my version of fattoush, a popular Middle Eastern salad made with lettuce, herbs and torn pita bread. I prefer sheets of soft lavash, an Armenian bread sold in plastic bags and often used to make wrapped sandwiches. (Lavash is also sold as cracker bread, but that version needs to be spritzed with water and softened before using.) Here I brush the soft bread with olive oil and then sprinkle it with za'atar, a popular Middle Eastern spice blend.

Cook Time: 20 minutes
Serves: 4 as a main course or 8 as a side dish (recipe can be halved)

Dressing

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush both sides of the lavash lightly with the olive oil. Place the lavash on a large baking sheet, slightly overlapping or, if necessary, cutting to fit. Sprinkle the top evenly with za'atar and a light dusting of salt. Bake until toasted and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool. Break or cut into rough 1-inch pieces. You should have about 4 cups.
2. Place the parsley, mint and dill in a food processor and pulse 2 or 3 times, or until coarsely chopped. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the lettuce, scallions, cucumber and tomato.
3. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the oil, lemon juice and garlic until blended. Add to the salad and toss to coat. Add the toasted lavash and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

Substitutions

• I find lavash in my supermarket's deli department, but if it is unavailable, use pita. You will need 2 pita (whole wheat preferred), halved along the folds. Brush with oil and sprinkle with za'atar and coarse salt and bake following the directions for the lavash until crisp and browned, 15 to 18 minutes.
• You can omit the za'atar and use a more generous sprinkling of salt.

Make a Meal

Top the salad with Crispy Chickpeas ([>]) or serve with Chickpea Salad with Celery, Lemon and Herbs ([>]).

GREEN BEAN, CORN, TOMATO AND CUCUMBER SALAD Vegan

This simple salad calls out to me in early summer when fresh corn, tender green beans and ripe tomatoes make their appearance at my produce market. The corn available today is so sweet that I cut it from the cobs and use it raw in salads. You can give it a quick steaming if you prefer, but I like its raw crunch.

Cook Time: 5 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Bring a medium saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the beans and 1 teaspoon of the salt and cook until crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and rinse with cold water. Place in a bowl with a handful of ice cubes to chill.
2. Combine the corn, tomatoes, cucumber, basil, oil, lime juice and the remaining ½ teaspoon salt in a salad bowl. Drain the green beans, remove the ice, and blot the beans dry. Add the beans to the salad bowl and toss to blend. Serve at room temperature.

Substitutions

• There are many variations on this theme. For instance, limit the vegetables to beans and corn, omitting the tomatoes and cucumbers. Increase the beans from 8 ounces to 12 ounces if you omit any of the other vegetables.
• Substitute a fruit-flavored vinegar for the citrus juice in the dressing.

Make a Meal

This is good with Red Rice Salad with Edamame, Tamari Walnuts and Ginger ([>]) or Toasted Bulgur, Tomato and Feta Salad ([>]). If desired, adjust the ingredients so there won't be any repetitions.

WARM GREEN BEAN AND TOMATO SALAD WITH MINT Vegan

Cheese and Mushroom Melts ([>]) and Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>])

As a kid, I spent hours in my grandmother's kitchen watching her every move. During the height of summer, when Nana's garden was in high gear, the additions to her green bean and mint salad varied. If green beans were plentiful, the salad would be all beans. If they were scanty, she would stretch them with wedges of tomato or sliced cucumber.

Cook Time: 5 minutes
Serves: 4 to 8

1. Bring a large pot three-fourths full of water to a boil. Add the beans and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, stirring once, until the beans are crisp-tender, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly bruise the garlic clove with the side of a knife and rub it on the inside of a large salad bowl. Leave the garlic in the bowl. Drain the beans and immediately add the hot beans and mint to the salad bowl. (The mint will darken, but it is essential to add it while the beans are hot so its flavor permeates the beans.)
2. Add the tomatoes, oil, a sprinkling of salt and a grinding of black pepper. Gently fold the ingredients together until blended. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Variations

• Prepare as directed, using 1 pound green beans and half a medium red onion cut into thin lengthwise slices. Add 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, if desired.
• Add 1 avocado, cut into thin wedges, to the cooked beans, onion and mint. Add 1 tablespoon fresh lime or lemon juice, if desired.
• Add 2 warm hard-cooked eggs (see [>]), cut into thin wedges, to the green bean and mint mixture. Thin-sliced red onion and a dash of red wine vinegar are optional.

Make a Meal

This is the perfect accompaniment to almost any main-dish salad or as part of a salad buffet. Serve with Middle Eastern Bread Salad ([>]) or Summer Tomato and Olive Bread Salad ([>]). For a buffet of salads, pair with Spinach, Avocado and Chopped-Egg Salad ([>]) and Warm New Potato Salad with White Wine and Scallions ([>]).

SPINACH, AVOCADO AND CHOPPED-EGG SALAD

Of all the bags of prewashed greens in the produce section, the one I grab when I need a salad in a hurry is the baby spinach. Refresh bagged greens with a quick dip in cold water and spin them dry in your salad spinner. The creamy, tangy dressing for this salad comes together quickly in a food processor.

Prep Time: About 15 minutes
Serves: 4

Dressing

1. To make the dressing: Combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, dill, scallions, vinegar and salt in a food processor and pulse until the dill is finely chopped and the mixture is blended.
2. In a large serving bowl, combine the spinach, eggs, avocado, radishes, a generous grinding of black pepper and the dressing and toss to combine. Sprinkle the sunflower seeds on top. Serve immediately.

Substitutions

1. Large-leaf spinach is also delicious in this salad. Its crinkly leaves are thicker and have a richer taste, adding textural interest. Bunches of spinach require a bit more work, since you'll have to trim off the long stems, tear the leaves into pieces and carefully wash them. (See Salad Tips, [>].)
2. Substitute salted roasted pepitas (hulled pumpkin seeds; see [>]) for the sunflower seeds.

Make a Meal

Serve with Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>]) and Confetti Rice Salad ([>]).

SHREDDED TUSCAN KALE, TOMATO AND AVOCADO SALAD Vegan

Shredded Tuscan Kale, Tomato and Avocado Salad ([>]) with Quick Melted Comté Cheese Crisps ([>])

This recipe is based on a delicious and revolutionary idea: raw kale salad. Because it's on many restaurant menus, I suspect it is from an innovative raw foods chef. Having tested this salad with every variety of kale I can find, I've decided the mild-tasting, tender, pebblyleafed Tuscan (lacinato) kale, often sold as "dinosaur kale," is the best. Although the kale is raw, it is softened by rubbing it in your hands with the lime juice, olive oil and salt dressing.

Prep Time: About 10 minutes
Serves: 4

Salsa

1. To prepare the kale, cut along both sides of the stem of each leaf with a sharp knife or pull the ruffled leaves away from the stems with your hands. Discard the stems. Gather a bunch of the long kale leaves together on the cutting board and slice into thin (⅛-inch) crosswise slices. You should have 4 to 6 cups lightly packed.
2. Combine the kale, lime juice, oil and salt in a large bowl. Rub the ingredients together with your hands (as though giving the kale a massage) until the leaves wilt, 1 to 2 minutes. Set aside.
3. To make the salsa: Combine the avocado, tomato, red onion, jalapeño, garlic, lime juice, oil and salt and stir to blend.
4. Add the salsa to the kale and toss to combine. Sprinkle the salad with the pepitas. Serve at room temperature.

Substitutions
Substitute roasted sunflower seeds for the pepitas.

Make a Meal

Serve with Black Rice, Mango and Sugar Snap Pea Salad ([>]) or Summer Tomato and Olive Bread Salad ([>]).

SHREDDED TUSCAN KALE SALAD WITH TAMARI AND SESAME Vegan

Everyone who tastes this salad (even my kale-phobic husband) devours it. The best kind to use is the mild, tender Tuscan (lacinato) variety, often sold as dinosaur kale.

Prep Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

1. To prepare the kale, cut along both sides of the stem of each leaf with a sharp knife or pull the ruffled leaves away from the stems with your hands. Discard the stems. Gather a bunch of the long kale leaves together on the cutting board and slice into thin (⅛-inch) crosswise slices. You should have 4 to 6 cups lightly packed.
2. Combine the kale, rice vinegar, tamari, olive oil, sesame oil, ginger and garlic in a large bowl. Rub the ingredients together with your hands (as though giving the kale a massage) until the leaves wilt, 1 to 2 minutes.
3. Add the carrot, onion and sesame seeds and toss with a fork until blended. Serve at room temperature.

Make a Meal

I like this with Green Bean, Corn, Tomato and Cucumber Salad ([>]) and a rice salad, such as the simple Brown Rice, Scallion and Peanut Salad ([>]).

SUMMER TOMATO AND OLIVE BREAD SALAD Vegan

You'll need ripe, luscious tomatoes for this salad, so save this recipe for the height of the season. Seek out a coarse-grained, chewy loaf of artisanal bread studded with black Kalamata olives. If olive bread is unavailable, use any whole-grain rustic loaf and toss in a handful of pitted Kalamata olives.

Cook Time: 20 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Arrange the bread slices on a large baking sheet. Brush both sides of the bread lightly with oil and bake until crisp and golden, about 20 minutes, turning over halfway through the baking time. When the bread is cool enough to handle, cut it into rough 1-inch squares. You should have 4 to 6 cups. Set aside.
2. Rub the bruised garlic all over the surface of a large salad bowl. Leave the garlic in the bowl. Add the bread cubes. Sprinkle the bread with ¼ cup ice water, a tablespoon at a time, tossing after each addition. Reserve the remaining ¼ cup water to add later, if needed. (If the tomatoes are especially juicy, you may not need to add more water.)
3. With the tip of a paring knife, cut the stem ends from the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes into ½-inch slices. Stack the slices and cut into ½-inch cubes. Add the tomatoes to the salad bowl, along with the onion, basil, a generous sprinkling of salt and a grinding of black pepper. Drizzle 3 tablespoons oil over the mixture. Toss to blend. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon vinegar. Taste and season with more salt, pepper, oil and/or vinegar, if needed. If the salad seems dry, add the remaining ¼ cup ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and toss to combine. Serve at room temperature.

Make a Meal

Serve with Warm Green Bean and Red Onion Salad with Mint (see Variations, [>]) and corn on the cob Mexican-style ([>]) or plain with olive oil and a sprinkling of coarse salt.

CABBAGE, PINEAPPLE AND PEANUT SALAD Vegan

Full of crunch, heat and bright fresh flavors, this salad is a favorite. I even like leftovers the next day when the cabbage has lost some of its crunch.

Prep Time: About 15 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

Dressing

1. Combine the cabbage, pineapple, peanuts and jalapeño in a large bowl.
2. To make the dressing: In a small bowl, whisk the oil, vinegar, ginger, garlic and salt until blended. Add the dressing to the cabbage and toss to blend. Add the cilantro, if using. Serve at room temperature.

Shortcuts
Use a food processor fitted with the slicing blade to make quick work of the cabbage. Chop the pineapple with the chopping blade of the food processor.

Substitutions

• Omit the peanuts and substitute 1 to 2 tablespoons sesame seeds.
• Replace the head cabbage with bagged sliced cabbage crisped in ice water for 10 minutes.
• In a pinch, use chunks of unsweetened canned pineapple instead of the fresh.

Make a Meal

Serve with Red Rice Salad with Edamame, Tamari Walnuts and Ginger ([>]).

CURRIED QUINOA AND APPLE SALAD WITH DRIED CRANBERRIES Vegan

This salad is heady with the aroma of toasted curry and crunchy with quinoa, raw apple and walnuts.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Rinse the quinoa in a fine-mesh strainer under cold running water for at least 45 seconds. Shake in the strainer to remove as much water as possible.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet. Add the quinoa and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until the quinoa is light golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add the curry powder and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add 2 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt and bring to a boil. Cook, covered, over medium-low heat until the water is absorbed and the quinoa is translucent and appears to be uncoiling, 18 to 20 minutes. Let stand, covered, until cool.
3. Whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons oil and the lemon juice in a large bowl until blended. Add the cooled quinoa, apple, walnuts, cranberries and scallions and toss to blend. Taste and correct the seasonings, adding a bit more lemon juice, oil and/or salt, if needed. Serve at room temperature.

Shortcut
A large batch of quinoa can be toasted ahead of time (see [>]).

Make a Meal

Serve with Red Lentil Soup with Coconut Milk and Toasted Cumin ([>]).

BASIC VINAIGRETTE Vegan

Whisk 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, sherry vinegar, lemon juice or lime juice, 1 small garlic clove, grated, ½ teaspoon coarse salt and a generous grinding of black pepper in a small bowl. You can add 1 to 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon minced red onion or shallot or 1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh tarragon, mint, basil, dill or other fresh herbs.

JAPANESE RICE VINAIGRETTE WITH GINGER Vegan

Whisk 3 tablespoons mild-flavored extra-virgin olive oil or other vegetable oil, 2 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar (my preferred brand is Marukan), 1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger, 1 to 2 teaspoons tamari or soy sauce, 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil and coarse salt to taste.

Topped and Stuffed Breads That Make a Meal

Spreads and Toppings

Rosemary-Fennel White Bean Spread [>]

Broccoli, Dill and Lemon Spread [>]

Chickpea Spread with Pomegranate Molasses [>]

Beet and Tahini Puree [>]

Braised Swiss Chard with Pecorino Curls [>]

Tomato, Avocado and Tarragon Spread [>]

Roasted Red Pepper and Walnut Spread [>]

Multi-Mushroom Pâté [>]

Warm Open-Faced Sandwiches

Cheese and Mushroom Melts [>]

Toasted Italian Bread with Mozzarella, Tomato and Olives [>]

Toasts

Quick Melted Comté Cheese Crisps [>]

Grilled Breads

Grilled Comté Sandwich with Apple and Mango Chutney [>]

Toasted Flatbread (Naan) with Goat Cheese, Sautéed Greens and Crispy Shallots [>]

Tortillas

Curried Egg and Feta Breakfast Quesadillas [>]

Roasted Vegetable and Mozzarella Quesadillas [>]

Corn Tortillas with Mushrooms, Spinach and Manchego Cheese [>]

Summer Veggie Burritos with Goat Cheese [>]

Spicy Chipotle Chile Salsa [>]

A steaming bowl of soup, a buffet of vegetables or a light main dish call out for an accompaniment. I often yearn for a crisp or chewy side dish, something to add texture and extra satiety. For me, that means bread.

A grand selection of toppings for crostini, bruschetta and open-faced sandwiches as well as creative fillings for grilled sandwiches and tortillas offer a broad range of choices.

In the wide world of open-faced sandwiches, including bruschetta and crostini, there is a huge selection of "flat-form" possibilities for toppings, while grilled sandwiches, tortillas and other "wrappers" call out for creative fillings.

Bubbly mozzarella cheese layered with tomato slices on crisped Italian bread, for example, or braised Swiss chard and curls of Pecorino Romano cheese on bruschetta make a terrific lunch with a steaming bowl of soup. Others, like Grilled Comté Sandwich with Apple and Mango Chutney ([>]) or Summer Veggie Burritos with Goat Cheese ([>]), are hearty enough to stand alone or can be paired with a simple salad or cup of soup.

Flour and corn tortillas are staples in my refrigerator. The typical Mexican quesadilla is simply a cheese-filled tortilla folded into a half circle and heated in a skillet until the cheese is meltingly hot and the tortilla is golden and crunchy. But over the years, I've taken liberties with the concept of quesadillas, adding all sorts of ingredients that taste great together.

Mix and match fillings and toppings, experiment with different types of cheese and try a variety of mustards, spreads and relishes. Use the enticing recipes in this chapter as a springboard and let your culinary imagination take flight.

SANDWICH TIPS

• Seek out the best artisanal bread you can find, preferably a multigrain loaf that can be handcut into thick slices.
• Bread with a coarse crumb absorbs hot oil best and browns to a perfectly crunchy golden crust.
• To refresh day-old pita, tortillas or naan (flatbread), wrap in foil and warm in a moderate oven for about 10 minutes. Or crisp in a toaster or toaster oven.
• For grilled cheese sandwiches, keep a stash of good melting cheese on hand. A few favorites are mozzarella, Monterey Jack, Comté, cheddar and Manchego.
• Make quick work of cheese "curls" by pressing down hard with a vegetable peeler or cheese plane and pulling it along the smooth surface of the cheese. Hard or semihard cheeses are best for making curls.
• Use up small amounts of leftover chopped cooked greens, broccoli or cauliflower, smashed peas or beans or grilled sliced vegetables for sandwich fillings or toppings for crostini and bruschetta.
• Fresh goat's-milk cheese warmed to room temperature spreads smoothly on bread. For a crumbled topping for bruschetta or crostini, use cold cheese.
• A thin layer of pickle slices or chopped olives balances the richness of melted cheese and adds a great flavor hit to sandwiches.
• For a tender, golden brown crust on grilled sandwiches, use a silicone brush to apply olive oil to the griddle or skillet.
• For grilled sandwiches, olive oil is better than butter because it will brown without burning.

QUICK HITS FOR BREADS

Broiled Open-Faced Cheese Sandwiches with Tapenade or Sun-Dried Tomato Spread
Broil slices of bread until light golden brown on both sides. Spread each with a thin layer of black olive spread (called tapenade in France and olivada in Italy) or sun-dried tomato spread. Top with a ¼-inch-thick slice of mozzarella and broil until the cheese is bubbly, 3 to 5 minutes.

Lemony Goat Cheese Spread
Mash 3 to 4 ounces softened fresh goat cheese, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon each grated lemon zest and snipped rosemary, half a clove of garlic, grated, and a grinding of black pepper until blended. Spread on crostini or bruschetta, drizzle each with about ¼ teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with a little chopped fresh rosemary or other herb.

Warm Hard-Cooked Egg Spread with Parmigiano-Reggiano
Hard-cook 4 large eggs (see [>]) and peel while still warm. Mash the eggs in a bowl with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons minced red onion, 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil or Italian parsley, ½ teaspoon coarse salt and a grinding of black pepper. Broil ½- to ¾-inch-thick slices of Italian bread, preferably whole-grain, on both sides until golden. Spread the toast with the egg mixture and cover with shaved curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Broil until the cheese is softened and the egg mixture is warm, about 3 minutes.

Fried-Egg Quesadillas with Tomato and Cheese
Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add an 8-inch corn or flour tortilla and warm it, turning once, about 1 minute. Remove the tortilla from the pan and keep warm. Break 1 large egg into the pan and fry, breaking the yolk with the tip of a spatula, until the white and yolk are partially set, about 1 minute. Slide the spatula under the egg and transfer to the warm tortilla. Top the egg with ¼ cup chopped tomato and a few fresh cilantro leaves. Sprinkle with ¼ cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese. Fold the tortilla in half and, with the spatula, transfer the folded tortilla to the hot skillet. Cook until golden and the cheese is melted, turning once, about 1 minute. Cut into wedges.

Manchego-Fig Quesadillas
Heat 1 teaspoon olive oil in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Add an 8-inch corn or flour tortilla and warm it, turning once, about 1 minute. Off the heat, cover the bottom half of the tortilla with 1 large fresh fig, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices. Sprinkle with 1 to 2 teaspoons chopped seeded jalapeño pepper, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro and about ¼ cup shredded Manchego cheese. Fold the top half of the tortilla over the filling. Return the quesadilla to the warm skillet and reheat until the cheese is melted, about 1 minute. Cut into wedges.

BRUSCHETTA VS. CROSTINI

Bruschetta (bruce-ket-ta) and crostini (kroh-stee-nee), two Italian favorites, are often confused.

Bruschetta is basically a thick slice of bread, grilled or broiled, rubbed with garlic and drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil. Because it is thick and sturdy, I like to use it as the platform for hearty toppings such as cooked greens, chopped tomatoes and avocado or white beans seasoned with red onion, rosemary and garlic.

Crostini, or toasts, are made with thinner pieces. Typically, the bread is toasted, oiled and then spread with a thin topping. I've adjusted the concept for speed and efficiency by toasting thin-sliced, lightly oiled pieces on baking sheets until crisp and golden. More like crackers than toast, these platforms won't support chunky or chopped toppings, so keep your spreads on the thin side. Crostini can be made ahead and kept on hand in zip-top plastic bags or airtight containers for a week or longer.

The kind of bread is important. Make sure you select a solid, rustic Italian loaf or a French baguette from a good bakery. The bread should have an even crumb and not be riddled with airholes.

Olive Bread Toasts
Seek out a good loaf of artisanal olive bread. This bread makes the most delightful grilled sandwiches, bruschetta, crostini and plain crispy toasts. For toasts, slice it thin and prepare as you would crostini. Serve with a smear of Lemony Goat Cheese Spread ([>]).

Crostini
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line up ¼ to ½-inch-thick rounds or diagonal slices of crusty French or Italian bread on a baking sheet. Lightly brush the tops of the slices with olive oil. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the bread is light golden brown. If the toasts become too dry, the bread won't be able to soak up the flavors in the topping.

Bruschetta
Position the top oven rack 5 inches from the heat source. Preheat the broiler. Cut hearty Italian bread, preferably a whole-grain loaf, into ½- to ¾-inch-thick slices. Line up the slices on a baking sheet and brush with olive oil (optional). Broil until golden, about 5 minutes. Turn the bread with tongs and broil on the other side until golden, about 3 minutes. Another option is to fire up the grill and toast thick slices of bread on the grill until lightly browned.

Quick-Toasted Bruschetta
For two servings, or 4 pieces bruschetta, I cut the bread into ½- to ¾-inch-thick slices and toast it in my toaster until golden brown on both sides, 2 to 3 minutes, then brush with olive oil.

Pita Chips
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Separate a package of pita bread along the folded edges to make flat circles. Spread the rough side of each lightly with olive oil. If desired, sprinkle with coarse salt, za'atar (see [>]), smoked paprika (preferably Pimentón de la Vera; see [>]) or Madras curry powder, or leave plain. Stack 2 or 3 of the circles and cut into 6 pie-shaped wedges. Spread the wedges in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake until golden, 12 to 15 minutes. Repeat until all the chips are baked. Stored in a zip-top plastic bag, the pita chips will keep for up to 2 weeks.

ROSEMARY-FENNEL WHITE BEAN SPREAD Vegan

Canned cannellini or white kidney beans make a quick topping for crostini or bruschetta when gussied up with minced red onion, fennel seed and snipped rosemary.

Serves: 4 to 6

1. Combine the garlic, fennel seed and ½ teaspoon salt in a mortar and crush into a paste with the pestle. If you don't have a mortar and pestle, grate the garlic and finely chop the fennel seed with a knife. Combine with the salt in a small bowl and mash with the back of a spoon until blended.
2. In a food processor, combine the mashed garlic mixture, beans and oil and process into a coarse puree. Transfer the puree to a bowl and stir in the red onion, vinegar and a generous grinding of black pepper. Taste and add more salt if needed.
3. Spread the crostini or bruschetta with the bean mixture. Top each portion with a light sprinkling of rosemary and a ¼-teaspoon drizzle of olive oil. Serve.

Make a Meal

Serve with Artichoke and Potato Stew with Black Olives and Tomatoes ([>]) or Skillet-Baked Eggs with Blistered Cherry Tomatoes ([>]).

BROCCOLI, DILL AND LEMON SPREAD Vegan

This silken spread of cooked broccoli and fresh dill pureed with garlic and olive oil and enlivened with a generous squirt of lemon juice also makes a fresh dip for crudités or pita chips ([>]).

Cook Time: 6 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Bring a large saucepan half full of water to a boil. Add the broccoli and 1 teaspoon salt and cook, uncovered, until the broccoli is tender but still bright green, 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well.
2. Meanwhile, combine 2 tablespoons of the oil and the garlic in a small skillet and cook over medium-low heat, stirring, until the garlic begins to sizzle, about 1 minute. Do not brown. Remove from the heat. Add the crushed red pepper.
3. Combine the broccoli, ¼ cup of the dill, the oil-garlic mixture and the lemon juice in a food processor and puree. With the motor running, gradually add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. Add ½ teaspoon salt, or to taste.
4. Spread on the crostini and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon dill. Serve immediately.

Make a Meal

Serve with Tomato and White Bean Soup with Spinach Pesto ([>]) or Pumpkin and Tomato Soup with Cheese ([>]).

CHICKPEA SPREAD WITH POMEGRANATE MOLASSES Vegan

Thick and syrupy with a rich sweet-and-sour taste, pomegranate molasses is used in Middle Eastern cooking. Use this quick, delicious puree as a spread on crostini or as a dip for warm pita bread or crisps. If pomegranates are in season, sprinkle the spread with the pretty jewel-like seeds.

Serves: 4 to 6

1. Combine the chickpeas, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, garlic and salt in a food processor and puree. With the motor running, gradually add the oil, processing until the mixture is smooth and creamy.
2. Spread about 2 tablespoons of the puree on each crostini. Sprinkle with mint and drizzle with pomegranate molasses and/or scatter over a few pomegranate seeds, if using. If serving as a dip, spread the puree on a serving plate, sprinkle it with the mint and drizzle with pomegranate molasses and/or garnish with the fresh pomegranate seeds.

Make a Meal

Serve with a vegetable buffet of Carrots with Moroccan Spices and Lemon ([>]), Steamed Spinach with Ginger and Garlic Oil ([>]) and Curried Quinoa and Apple Salad with Dried Cranberries ([>]).

BEET AND TAHINI PUREE

I was introduced to this intriguing spread of finely chopped cooked beets and tahini by the Lebanese-born cookbook author Anissa Helou. In this version, I add yogurt, lemon juice and fresh dill to the mix. Serve it on bread as I do here, as a spread in a sandwich with slices of avocado or as a salad spooned onto a crisp lettuce leaf.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4 to 6

1. Bring the cubed beets and 2 tablespoons water to a boil in a small heavy saucepan. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until the beets are tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Do not allow the water to evaporate or the beets will burn. If there is any water left in the pan when the beets are done, cook, uncovered, over medium heat until the water cooks off. Transfer the beets to a food processor and cool slightly.
2. Add the tahini, yogurt, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon of the dill, the salt and a grinding of black pepper and process until finely chopped, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl.
3. Spread the puree on the crostini. Top each crostini with about 1 tablespoon chopped egg or diced avocado, if using, and sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon dill.

Shortcuts
To save time, use the packaged cooked beets available in some markets. Add to the food processor in step 2 and continue with the recipe.

Make a Meal

Serve with hard-cooked eggs, halved and sprinkled with za'atar (see [>]) and coarse salt (omit the hard-cooked egg garnish on the puree). Accompany with wedges of ripe avocado topped with lime juice and sprinkled with sesame seeds.

BRAISED SWISS CHARD WITH PECORINO CURLS

White Bean and Fennel Soup ([>]) and Braised Swiss Chard with Pecorino Curls ([>])

Greens are a favorite topping, no matter what the season. You won't need the full wedge of cheese for this recipe, but you will need a good-sized chunk from which to shave curls of Pecorino to crown the tops of the bruschetta.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Wash the Swiss chard and tear the leafy parts away from the thick center ribs. Reserve the ribs for another use (see Swiss Chard Ribs Gratin, [>]) or add to vegetable soup or broth. Tear the leaves into 2-inch pieces.
2. Combine the oil and garlic in a large heavy pot and cook over low heat until the garlic sizzles, about 1 minute.
3. Add the wet Swiss chard leaves to the pot and cook, covered, over medium heat, until wilted, 3 to 5 minutes. Add a sprinkling of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Transfer to a strainer to drain off any excess moisture.
4. Drizzle about ½ teaspoon oil on the surface of each bruschetta. Top with a layer of the hot Swiss chard.
5. Hold the wedge of cheese firmly in one hand. With a cheese plane or a heavy-duty vegetable peeler pressed hard into the flat surface of the cheese, slice off curls of cheese and place on top of the Swiss chard. Serve immediately.

Make a Meal

Serve as an accompaniment to a hearty soup. Try Tomato and White Bean Soup with Spinach Pesto ([>]) or White Bean and Fennel Soup ([>]).

TOMATO, AVOCADO AND TARRAGON SPREAD Vegan

This recipe is best when tomatoes are big and juicy. If you're forced to use less-than-stellar tomatoes, the "bath" of salt, lime juice, oil and tarragon will jazz them up a bit. I am not as liberal in my use of tarragon as I am with other herbs, but I do like its aniselike taste. If you prefer, substitute cilantro, dill, mint or basil for the tarragon.

Serves: 4 to 6

1. Whisk the oil, 1 tablespoon of the lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the tarragon, the garlic and ½ teaspoon of the salt in a small bowl until blended. Place the tomatoes on a platter and spoon the dressing over them.
2. With a tablespoon, scoop the avocado flesh into a small bowl and mash it with a fork. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon lime juice, the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and the jalapeño and stir to blend.
3. Pour the juices from the tomato platter into a small bowl and drizzle each bruschetta with about 1 teaspoon of the juice. Spread the bruschetta with a layer of the mashed avocado. Place a slice of tomato on top of each. Top the tomato with a pinch of the remaining 1 tablespoon tarragon. Serve immediately.

Make a Meal

Serve with Black Rice, Mango and Sugar Snap Pea Salad ([>]) and Chilled Watermelon and Tomato Soup ([>]).

ROASTED RED PEPPER AND WALNUT SPREAD Vegan

This spread, called muhammarra, is eaten widely throughout the Middle East. The ingredients differ from kitchen to kitchen, but generally it is based on roasted red peppers, walnuts and pomegranate molasses. The recipe was introduced to me by a friend, Turkish food and travel expert Kathleen O'Neill. Eaten primarily as a dip with pita chips or vegetable crudités, it is also delicious on crostini or bruschetta, topped with finely chopped walnuts.

Prep Time: About 15 minutes
Serves: 8

1. Combine the walnuts and bread in a food processor and process until finely chopped. Add the roasted peppers and oil and process until smooth. Add the pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, cumin, cayenne and 1 teaspoon salt. Process until blended.
2. Add more oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, until the mixture is thick but easy to scoop or spread. Taste and add more pomegranate molasses and salt if needed. (If the pomegranate molasses is sweet, the spread may need a dash more lemon or lime juice; if it is tart, it might need a pinch of sugar.)
3. Refrigerate the spread, covered, until ready to serve. The flavors will mellow as it stands. Serve with pita chips.

Make a Meal

Serve spread on crostini or bruschetta ([>]) as an accompaniment to Tomato Couscous with Cinnamon and Raisins ([>]), Toasted Bulgur Pilaf with Cumin, Dried Fruit and Crispy Shallots ([>]), Broccoli and Red Onion Stir-Fry with Tamari Walnuts ([>]) or Twice-Cooked Broccoli Rabe with Red Pepper and Garlic Oil ([>]).

MULTI-MUSHROOM PÂTÉ Vegan

This smooth, spreadable mixture of mushrooms spiked with sautéed garlic, sun-dried tomatoes and a trio of fragrant herbs can be made ahead. It keeps well for up to 1 week.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 6 to 8

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until hot enough to sizzle a piece of mushroom. Add all of the mushrooms and cook, stirring, over medium-high heat until softened and lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, 1 teaspoon of the thyme, ½ teaspoon of the rosemary, the salt and a generous grinding of pepper and cook over low heat, stirring, for 2 minutes. Cool slightly.
2. Transfer the mushroom mixture and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the food processor and pulse until the mushrooms are finely chopped and the mixture is blended. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and fold in the sun-dried tomatoes.
3. Spread the mushroom mixture on the crostini or bruschetta and garnish each with a light sprinkling of the remaining parsley, thyme and rosemary. Serve immediately.

Make a Meal

Serve as an accompaniment to Winter Borscht ([>]) or Leek and Potato Soup with Roasted Cauliflower ([>]).

CHEESE AND MUSHROOM MELTS

Cheese and Mushroom Melts ([>]) and Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>])

Keep mushrooms on hand for this gooey, rich and satisfying open-faced melt. Use a crusty round or other wide loaf that will make substantial-sized slices about 3 inches wide and 6 inches long. If a wide loaf isn't available, cut a long loaf into large diagonal slices.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat until it is hot enough to sizzle a slice of mushroom. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, adjusting the heat as needed to maintain a steady sizzle, until the mushrooms are golden and tender, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, thyme, rosemary, garlic, salt and a generous grinding of pepper and cook, stirring, over low heat, for 2 minutes.
2. Adjust the oven rack so that the top of the bread will be about 3 inches from the broiler. Preheat the broiler. Arrange the bread on a baking sheet, brush lightly on both sides with oil and broil on one side until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Turn the bread over and broil for 2 minutes more. Remove the pan from the oven; leave the broiler on. Spoon the mushrooms on top of the bread in a flat layer, dividing evenly.
3. Use a cheese plane or a vegetable peeler to cut enough cheese into curls or thin slices to cover the mushrooms on each slice of bread. Return the pan to the broiler and broil until the cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Serve hot.

Make a Meal

Serve with a green salad with fresh or dried fruit, Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>]) or Lentil and Vegetable Soup with Smoked Paprika ([>]).

TOASTED ITALIAN BREAD WITH MOZZARELLA, TOMATO AND OLIVES

Childhood memories of a favorite after-school snack of broiled mozzarella cheese on thick slices of Italian bread inspired this delicious open-faced sandwich. It's hearty enough for lunch, with a side of greens or a bowl of soup.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 2 or 4

1. Heat a thin film of oil in a skillet large enough to fit all the bread (or make the sandwiches in batches, if necessary). Add the bread and cook over medium-low heat until golden, about 3 minutes. Turn the bread with a spatula and mound ¼ cup mozzarella on each slice. Top each with a tomato slice and sprinkle with the olives.
2. Cover the skillet and cook until the cheese is melted and the bread is golden on the bottom, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

Make a Meal

Serve with Farro and Kale Soup with Orange Gremolata ([>]) or Curried Chickpea Soup with Summer Vegetables ([>]).

QUICK MELTED COMTÉ CHEESE CRISPS

Shredded Tuscan Kale, Tomato and Avocado Salad ([>]) with Quick Melted Comté Cheese Crisps ([>])

Whenever I'm faced with a half-eaten loaf of good bread, I stuff it into a zip-top plastic bag and freeze it for another day. Then I thaw it partially and, with a serrated knife, cut it into ½-inch (or thinner) slices, brush the slices with olive oil and toast, adding a thin slice of cheese during the last few minutes. These crisps, once made, will keep in an airtight bag or container for a week or more.

Cook Time: 20 minutes
Serves: 4 or more

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the sliced bread in a single layer on a baking sheet. Brush the bread lightly with the oil.
2. Bake until the bread is lightly browned on the bottom, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and turn the slices browned side up. Place 2 or 3 thin slices of cheese on each piece of bread, covering the surface in a single layer. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the cheese is melted and bubbly, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve immediately.

Substitutions
Substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano, Asiago, Pecorino Romano, Gruyère or other firm, easy-to-shave cheese for the Comté.

GRILLED COMTÉ SANDWICH WITH APPLE AND MANGO CHUTNEY

In my cheese drawer, snuggled next to a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano, is a slab of Comté, the luscious, buttery cow's-milk cheese of France. It melts like a dream, making it my first choice for the quintessential grilled cheese sandwich. Its rich, nutty taste pairs perfectly with the crisp acidity of the apple and the tangy heat of the mango chutney.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 2

1. Cut the cheese into enough ⅛-inch-thick rectangles to make a single layer on 2 slices of the bread, completely covering the surface. Top with a slightly overlapping layer of the apple slices. Add the spinach leaves.
2. Spread the chutney on the remaining 2 bread slices. Sandwich the bread together and press down lightly.
3. Heat a skillet large enough to hold both sandwiches. When the skillet is hot enough to sizzle a drop of water, brush it with a thin film of oil.
4. Use a wide spatula to transfer the sandwiches to the skillet, positioning them cheese side down. Place a lid slightly smaller than the skillet on the surface of the sandwiches (this is a good place to use a panini press if you have one) to weight the sandwiches. Cook over medium-low heat until the bottoms are a dark golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes.
5. Remove the cover and turn the sandwiches over. Return the lid to the surface of the sandwiches. Cook the other side until the bread is golden brown and the cheese is melted, 3 to 4 minutes.
6. Transfer the sandwiches to a cutting board, cut each sandwich in half with a serrated knife and serve.

Make a Meal

This is a rich sandwich. Serve with a mixed green salad tossed with a drizzle of walnut oil, a squirt of fresh lemon juice and a sprinkling of toasted walnut pieces.

TOASTED FLATBREAD (NAAN) WITH GOAT CHEESE, SAUTÉED GREENS AND CRISPY SHALLOTS

Naan, a slightly puffy, leavened flatbread from India, is now widely available in the bread section of the supermarket. It makes the perfect platform for many toppings. If naan is unavailable, substitute packaged prebaked pizza crusts.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F.
2. Combine the oil and shallots in a small skillet and cook, stirring, over medium heat until the shallots turn dark golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in a pinch of crushed red pepper, if desired. Set aside.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the greens: Pull the leaves of the Swiss chard or kale from the sturdy stems. Coarsely chop the chard, kale or spinach leaves. Rinse the greens in cold water and drain.
4. Add the wet leaves to a large skillet and cook, covered, over medium heat until wilted, 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover and toss until the greens are tender, 2 to 3 minutes, depending on the greens (kale will take more time and spinach less). Drain off any excess liquid. Pour the shallots and oil over the greens and toss over medium-high heat until the greens are coated with oil, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat.
5. Place the naan directly on the oven rack and bake until heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove the bread from the oven to a platter. Spread the bread with the tomato tapenade, if using, and sprinkle the goat cheese evenly on top. Distribute the greens mixture on top. Spoon any excess oil in the skillet over the greens. Serve immediately.

Variations

• Goat Cheese, Sautéed Greens and Hard-Cooked Eggs: Skip the shallots and slice 4 hard-cooked eggs (see [>]) into thin rounds and place on top of the sautéed greens.
• Blistered Cherry Tomatoes, Arugula and Red Onion: Prepare the blistered cherry tomatoes according to the recipe on [>]. With a slotted spoon, transfer about ½ cup of the tomatoes and some of the juices to each naan. Top each hot naan with a handful of torn arugula leaves and a few thin lengthwise slices of red onion. Sprinkle each bread lightly with 1 tablespoon grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Make a Meal

Serve with Pumpkin and Tomato Soup with Cheese ([>]) or Carrot, Sweet Potato and Ginger Soup with Baby Bok Choy ([>]).

CURRIED EGG AND FETA BREAKFAST QUESADILLAS

Scrambled eggs folded into a tortilla sounds like breakfast, but it is also great for lunch or dinner.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush a large baking sheet lightly with oil.
2. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a medium skillet over medium heat until hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, until tender, about 3 minutes. Stir in the curry powder. Add the eggs and cook, stirring with the flat edge of a rubber spatula, adjusting the heat as needed, until the eggs begin to set, about 2 minutes. Turn the eggs out of the skillet onto a plate.
3. Place the tortillas on the baking sheet and sprinkle half of each tortilla with 2 tablespoons feta. Spoon the scrambled-egg mixture on top of the cheese, distributing it evenly. Top each with a spoonful of salsa, if using, and a generous sprinkling of dill or cilantro. Fold the tortillas over to make half circles and press down lightly.
4. Bake until the tortillas are warm and the cheese is beginning to melt, about 3 minutes. Turn with a wide spatula and bake for 2 to 3 minutes more. Transfer the quesadillas to a cutting board, cut into wedges and serve.

Substitutions
Try Manchego or another melting cheese in place of the feta.

Make a Meal

Serve with Oven-Roasted Mini Bell Peppers with Rosemary ([>]) and Summer Stew of Zucchini, Tomatoes, Corn and Basil ([>]).

ROASTED VEGETABLE AND MOZZARELLA QUESADILLAS

Make these luscious quesadillas when you have leftover roasted vegetables. I like them so much that I often roast a batch especially for this recipe. A mixture of eggplant, zucchini and red bell pepper is especially good.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brush a large baking sheet lightly with oil.
2. Place the tortillas on the pan and sprinkle half of each tortilla with ⅓ cup cheese. Top the cheese with a layer of the chopped roasted vegetables and sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon olives. Fold the tortillas over to make half circles and press down lightly.
3. Bake until the tortillas are warm and beginning to color and the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes. Turn with a wide spatula and bake for 5 minutes more. Transfer the quesadillas to a cutting board, cut into wedges and serve.

Make a Meal

Serve with Shredded Tuscan Kale, Tomato and Avocado Salad ([>]) and Warm Green Bean and Tomato Salad with Mint ([>]).

CORN TORTILLAS WITH MUSHROOMS, SPINACH AND MANCHEGO CHEESE

This dish of stacked corn tortillas was inspired by chilaquiles, a classic Mexican casserole made from leftover corn tortillas layered with tomato salsa and shredded cheese. When made in a casserole dish, it is reminiscent of lasagna. You may want to make a double batch of the quick salsa in the recipe to keep on hand for soups, salads, quesadillas or dips. Refrigerate for 1 week or freeze for up to 3 months.

Cook Time: 30 minutes
Serves: 4

Salsa

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Brush one side of each of the tortillas with oil and arrange, slightly overlapping, on a baking sheet. Bake the tortillas until warmed and slightly crisp, about 5 minutes.
2. To make the salsa: Heat the oil in a large skillet until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the chili powder and cumin and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and bring to a boil. Cook, uncovered, until thickened, about 15 minutes. Stir in the jalapeño and cilantro.
3. While the salsa is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet until it is hot enough to sizzle a slice of mushroom. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring, over medium heat until they are golden and tender, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle the mushrooms with salt and pepper to taste. Add the spinach all at once and cook, covered, over medium-low heat until it is wilted, about 2 minutes. Uncover. If there is moisture in the pan, cook on high heat until the liquid evaporates, about 30 seconds.
4. Remove 4 of the tortillas from the pan and set aside. Ladle about ¼ cup of the salsa in the center of each of the tortillas on the pan and spread it to the edges with the underside of the ladle. Using half of the mushroom and spinach mixture, place a portion on top of each tortilla. Sprinkle each with 2 tablespoons of the cheese. Top with the remaining 4 tortillas. Spread the remaining salsa over each tortilla and top with the remaining mushroom and spinach mixture, dividing evenly. Sprinkle each stack with 2 tablespoons of the remaining shredded cheese.
5. Return the pan to the oven and bake until the tortilla stacks are heated through and the cheese is melted, about 5 minutes.
6. Slide each tortilla stack onto a dinner plate. Top with a spoonful of crema to taste and a sprinkling of scallions and cilantro. Serve at once.

Shortcuts
For a quicker version, use a good-quality store-bought salsa in place of the homemade salsa.

Make a Meal

Serve with Red Lentil Soup with Coconut Milk and Toasted Cumin ([>]).

SUMMER VEGGIE BURRITOS WITH GOAT CHEESE

Crunchy and fresh, these burritos bear little resemblance to the hefty commercial ones that I call torpedoes because of their heaviness. This version, filled with colorful summer vegetables, is lighter and healthier. When our favorite teenager gave me a thumbs-up with her mouth full, I knew I'd gotten it right. Take a few minutes to make the fresh tomato and chipotle chile salsa, or use your favorite store-bought version.

Cook Time: 10 minutes
Serves: 4 to 8

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Stack the tortillas, wrap them tightly in aluminum foil and warm the stack in the oven for about 10 minutes. Warming the tortillas makes them more pliable for rolling. Cut 8 additional pieces of foil, each 12 inches square, for wrapping the burritos.
2. Heat the oil in a large skillet until it is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion. Add the onion and cook, stirring, over medium-low heat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring, until heated through, about 2 minutes. Off the heat, add the quinoa, corn, peppers, cilantro and salt and stir to combine.
3. Place a warm tortilla in the center of each square of foil. Place about ½ cup of the quinoa mixture in the center of each tortilla. Top with ¼ cup lettuce, 3 or 4 bits of crumbled goat cheese and a rounded tablespoon of the salsa, including some of the juice.
4. Working on one tortilla at a time, fold the two sides of the tortilla in until the edges are almost touching in the center. Then roll the tortilla from the bottom of the circle, enclosing the filling to make a roll about 5 inches long and 2½ inches thick. Wrap each burrito tightly in foil and serve at once or refrigerate until ready to serve. These will keep for 1 day, although they are best eaten soon after filling.
5. Serve with the remaining salsa, spooning it over the filling while eating, if desired.

Make a Meal

Serve with Curried Coconut-Squash Soup with Peanuts ([>]) or Black Bean and Mango Salad ([>]).

SPICY CHIPOTLE CHILE SALSA Vegan

Fresh and zesty, this easy salsa is spiced with the smoky, haunting flavor of chipotle. Use as a topping for burritos or quesadillas or spoon it into a bowl of soup. If tasty plum tomatoes are unavailable, use good-quality canned diced tomatoes, well drained.

Prep Time: About 10 minutes
Makes about 2 cups

In a medium bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion, cilantro, jalapeño, chipotle, lime juice and salt. Stir to blend. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. It will keep, refrigerated, for up to 5 days.

Main Dishes

Tofu

Stir-Fried Tofu with Oyster Mushrooms, Bell Peppers and Spinach [>]

Tofu "Steaks" with Spicy Almond Butter Sauce and Baby Bok Choy [>]

Stir-Fried Curried Tofu with Coconut Green Rice and Cashews [>]

Pan-Seared Tofu with Eggplant and Curried Tomato-Mint Sauce [>]

Grains

Bulgur Pilaf with Roasted Vegetables [>]

Toasted Quinoa with Spinach, Blistered Tomatoes and Walnuts [>]

Farrotto with Tomatoes and Pecorino [>]

Cumin-Scented Israeli Couscous with Caramelized Cabbage [>]

Red Quinoa with Scrambled Eggs, Asparagus and Tamari Almonds [>]

Rice

Shortcut Corn Risotto with Summer "Succotash" [>]

Vegetable Paella [>]

Lentils

Lentil and Shiitake Ragout with Green Beans [>]

Curried Lentils with Walnuts, Spinach and Cherry Tomatoes [>]

Potatoes

Curried Potato, Shiitake and Broccoli Stir-Fry [>]

Twice-Baked Potatoes with Roasted Poblano Chiles and Queso Fresco [>]

Roasted Sweet Potatoes Topped with Quick Black Bean Chili [>]

Sautéed Cabbage and Crispy Potato Cake with Melted Cheese [>]

Stews

Cannellini Ragout with Leeks, Green Beans and Orange [>]

Artichoke and Potato Stew with Black Olives and Tomatoes [>]

Winter Vegetable Stew with Moroccan Flavors [>]

Coconut-Vegetable Curry with Cashews [>]

Curried Chickpeas with Roasted Cauliflower and Spinach [>]

Pasta

Risotto-Style Penne with Tomatoes and Ricotta Salata [>]

Orecchiette with Ricotta, Broccoli Rabe and Blistered Cherry Tomatoes [>]

Gnocchi with Green Beans and Walnut Pesto [>]

Polenta

Twice-Cooked Polenta Gratin [>]

Three-Mushroom Ragu with Stovetop Polenta [>]

Double-Corn and Jalapeño Polenta Gratin [>]

Eggs

Skillet-Baked Eggs with Blistered Cherry Tomatoes [>]

Zucchini and Red Onion Mini Omelets with Romesco Sauce [>]

Quick Supper Frittata [>]

A vegetarian main dish need not be daunting. Think of the traditional meat, potato and vegetable main dish, then exclude the meat, reconceptualize the potato as any starch, increase the quantity and move it to the center of the plate. The array of starches available is almost endless: bulgur, polenta, quinoa, rice, beans and pasta, to name a few. Add one or two vegetable side dishes, and dinner is ready. Almost.

For excitement, richness, crunch and bold flavors, add spices, a shower of chopped fresh herbs, sautéed garlic, squirts of fresh lemon or lime juice, strips or gratings of orange or lemon zest, a topping of cheese and/ or a sprinkling of toasted nuts or seeds.

Toasted Quinoa with Spinach, Blistered Tomatoes and Walnuts ([>]) is a perfect illustration of how to elevate a vegetarian main dish from ho-hum to memorable. First, toast the quinoa in olive oil to impart a rich, nutty taste. Blister grape or cherry tomatoes in hot olive oil and watch the juices turn sweet and syrupy. Barely wilt the spinach so it remains fresh and flavorful. Add crunch and richness with walnuts and cheese and fresh brightness with torn basil leaves.

To add a spark to your vegetarian kitchen, keep these ingredients and tips in mind:

• The most-used spices in my spice drawer are ground cumin, cinnamon, chili powder, smoked paprika (preferably Pimentón de la Vera; see [>]), Madras curry powder and an exotic Moroccan spice blend called ras el hanout (see [>]).
• Keep ginger fresh in the freezer, grating it still frozen on a rasp grater (Microplane) as needed. If you use it frequently, store ginger in the vegetable drawer of your refrigerator, wrapped in a paper towel, not plastic.
• Grate garlic, orange and lemon zest, ginger and cheese on a rasp grater.
• If possible, shop where fresh herbs are sold in bunches instead of small plastic boxes. Herbs remain perky in a wide-mouthed container half filled with water and covered with an inverted plastic bag. Add fresh water to the container every few days. Wash the herbs just before using.
• A combination of chopped dill, mint and basil adds a fresh taste to almost any dish. For an extra jolt of flavor, place a ½-inch-wide strip of lemon or orange zest under the herbs and chop them together.
• For a fresh, bright taste, squirt fresh lemon or lime juice on a dish just before serving.

STIR-FRIED TOFU WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS, BELL PEPPERS AND SPINACH

Stir-Fried Tofu with Oyster Mushrooms, Bell Peppers and Spinach ([>])

Tofu is the perfect background for zippy marinades and flavorful ingredients. Here I use oyster mushrooms, but shiitake, big white button or another exotic variety also works. Serve plain or over rice, quinoa or other grain.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4

Marinade

1. Slice the block of tofu into ¾-inch-thick slices. Arrange the slices on a folded dish towel, cover with a second folded towel and press down gently but firmly with the palm of your hand for 30 seconds to remove the excess moisture. Cut the slices into ¾-inch cubes.
2. To make the marinade: Combine the orange juice, tamari, rice vinegar, honey, sesame oil, cornstarch, salt and crushed red pepper in a large bowl. Whisk to blend. Add the tofu and toss to coat.
3. Heat a wok or large skillet over high heat until it is hot enough to sizzle and evaporate a drop of water. Add 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil. Remove the tofu from the marinade with a slotted spoon (reserve the remaining marinade) and add it to the pan, adjusting the heat as needed to keep the oil sizzling hot. Cook the tofu, turning with a spatula or tongs, until it is evenly browned, about 8 minutes. Scoop the tofu from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside.
4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon peanut oil and the peppers to the pan and stir-fry until the peppers begin to blister, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the mushrooms, ginger, orange zest and garlic and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the tofu and the reserved marinade and stir-fry to coat, about 1 minute. Add the spinach and stir-fry for about 1 minute. Remove from the heat. The spinach will continue to wilt from the heat of the other ingredients as it stands. Serve.

Make a Meal

Serve with Carrot, Sweet Potato and Ginger Soup with Baby Bok Choy ([>]) or Red Lentil Soup with Coconut Milk and Toasted Cumin ([>]) and Soba Noodle Salad with Snow Peas ([>]).

TOFU "STEAKS" WITH SPICY ALMOND BUTTER SAUCE AND BABY BOK CHOY Vegan

A variety of nut butters have been popping up on supermarket and specialty store shelves. Being partial to almond butter, I use it here in an otherwise fairly classic rendition of Asian peanut sauce. (Peanut butter can be used instead of the almond butter, if you prefer.) Use a skillet or wok to first sear the tamari-glazed tofu, then cook the small heads of baby bok choy in the same pan.

Cook Time: 15 minutes
Serves: 4