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Destination Nepal
For many travellers, Nepal is paradise on earth, or at the very least Shangri La. Wedged between the mountain wall of the Himalaya and the steamy jungles of the Indian plains, this is a land of yaks and yetis, monasteries and mantras, snow peaks and Sherpas, temples and tigers, magic and mystery. Ever since Nepal first opened it borders to outsiders in the 1950s, this tiny mountain nation has had an almost mystical allure for travellers. Explorers and mountaineers came to conquer the highest peaks, trekkers came to test themselves against some of the most challenging trails on earth and hippies came to wander in a stoned daze through the temple-filled towns at the end of the overland trail.
FAST FACTS
Population: 29.5 million
Surface area: 147,181 sq km (just larger than Greece)
UN Human Development Index: 142, out of 177 countries
Life expectancy: 62 years
Literacy rate: 48.6%
Gross national income: US$240 per capita
Doctors per 100,000 people: 5 (550 in Italy)
Number of seats in parliament held by women: 12 (out of 205)
Nepalis who live on less than US$2 per day: 82%
Average age: 20 years
You’ll still see a few of the original ‘freaks’ meandering through the backstreets of Kathmandu, but they have been joined by legions of trekkers, clad in the latest technical gear and drawn by the rugged trails that climb to such famous destinations as Everest Base Camp and the Annapurna Sanctuary. Other travellers are drawn here by the rush of rafting down a roaring Nepali river or bungee jumping into a bottomless Himalayan gorge. Adventure addicts can get their adrenaline flowing by canyoning, climbing, kayaking, paragliding and mountain-biking through some of the world’s most dramatic landscapes.
Other travellers prefer to see Nepal at a more gentle pace, gazing towards the peaks from Himalayan viewpoints, strolling through the temple-lined medieval city squares of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur, and joining Buddhist pilgrims on a parikrama (ceremonial circuit) around the giant stupas scattered across the Kathmandu Valley. In Nepal’s wild and wonderful national parks, nature buffs scan the treetops for exotic bird species and comb the jungles for rhinos and tigers from the backs of lumbering Indian elephants.
But big changes are afoot in Nepal. For one thing, Nepal is no longer a kingdom. A decade of Maoist uprising and civil war came to an end with the election of the Communist Party of Nepal and the declaration of the Federal Republic of Nepal on 28 May 2008. Since then the last Nepali king, Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev, has vacated the Royal Palace in Kathmandu and moved to a modest house in Nagarjun, and the word ‘Royal’ has been snipped from the signboards for Royal Nepal Airlines and Royal Chitwan National Park. After years of conflict, peace has returned to the mountains, and an air of optimism pervades the nation.
For travellers, this means Nepal is once again open for business. Trekkers are free to walk the mountain trails without fear of being stung for ‘donations’ or ‘taxes’ by Maoist cadres, and travellers can roam the countryside without having to endure the endless army roadblocks and searches that once turned bus travel into a draining ordeal. For the first time in years, the planes touching down on the tarmac at Tribhuvan Airport are packed full of GoreTex-clad trekkers and Nepal’s trekking lodges, hotels and restaurants are often crammed to capacity. This is only the start of a long process of recovery, but locals are already breathing a sigh of relief.
There have been other less-obvious benefits to the end of hostilities. Soldiers have been pulled back from active duty to patrol the boundaries of Nepal’s national parks – good news for wildlife, bad news for the poachers who reduced Nepal’s rhino population by more than 30% during the uprising. The government has also turned its attention to improving living conditions for Nepal’s workers, something that was rarely a priority under the autocratic rule of the Shah kings. One side effect of this is that guides and porters are charging higher fees for their services – you’ll have to dig deeper into your pockets to go trekking than in years past.
However, there is definitely still work to do. Nepal’s infrastructure was severely neglected during the conflict, and load shedding – a polite term for turning off the power to save the grid from meltdown – is a daily fact of life in the Kathmandu Valley. Fuel shortages are another problem: petrol stations run dry with monotonous regularity and prices for cooking kerosene are soaring, driving many locals to use firewood hacked from Nepal’s dwindling forests. Hydroelectricity has been put forward as the panacea for all Nepal’s power problems, but most of the hydro projects approved so far aim to channel electricity across Nepal’s borders to India and China.
‘Many people have spent a lifetime exploring the mountain trails and atmospheric temple towns’
Getting around is also harder than it used to be, despite the easing of blockades. After decades of under-investment, the national airline has only four working aircraft for domestic flights, and some routes have been abandoned entirely. Private airlines have taken up some of the slack, but most of Nepal’s rural airstrips can only receive flights in clear weather, so delays and cancellations are the rule rather than the exception. The dangers of flying in cloud were tragically illustrated in October 2008 when a plane carrying European trekkers crashed beside the runway at Lukla, killing 18 people.
It’s easy to focus on the negatives. For most Nepalis, the election of a stable government and the end of armed conflict has been a massive cause for celebration. The rebels never targeted tourists during the uprising, and the new communist government is now wooing foreign travellers like never before. Visa conditions have been eased, so visitors can obtain a visa lasting up to six months on arrival, and there are plans to waive visa fees entirely in 2011 for Visit Nepal Year.
The biggest problem faced by visitors to Nepal is how to fit everything in. Many people have spent a lifetime exploring the mountain trails of the Himalaya and atmospheric temple towns of the Kathmandu Valley and the Middle Hills, and they still keep coming back for more. Our advice is to pick a handful of essential experiences and save the rest for trip two, and three, and four, and…
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Getting Started
WHEN TO GO
IS IT SAFE?
COSTS & MONEY
TRAVEL LITERATURE
INTERNET RESOURCES
There are few countries in the world that are as well set up for independent tourism as Nepal. You can rock up to the border or Kathmandu airport, obtain a visa on arrival, organise a TIMS permit for trekking (Click here) and be up in the Himalaya in a matter of days. However, there is so much to see and do that it pays to do a bit of preparation before you arrive, not least because delays, cancellations and other unexpected obstacles to travel are part of daily life in Nepal. After a decade of civil war things are finally getting back to normal in Nepal and tourism is bouncing back with gusto. Last time we updated this book many lodges were struggling to find guests. Today, in many areas, travellers are struggling to find beds.
WHEN TO GO
The climate of Nepal can be broadly divided into two seasons. The dry season runs from October to May and the wet (monsoon) season runs from June to September. Autumn (September to November) and spring (March to May) offer warm daytime temperatures, clear skies for mountain views and perfect weather for trekking, rafting or just roaming around the Kathmandu Valley. For more information on the trekking season Click here.
See Climate Charts for more information.
The peak season for tourism runs from October to November: the landscape is green and lush from the recent monsoon rains, the air is crisp and clean, and the views of the Himalaya are crystal clear. However, competition for seats on international and domestic flights can be fierce, and lodges and hotels fill up quickly – very frustrating if you have left your bag at a particular hotel while trekking. Always book ahead at this time of year. You should also consider the disruption caused by the annual Dasain festival in October (Click here).
By early December winter is starting to creep in and most trekkers retreat from the high-altitude trekking routes. Heading for Everest Base Camp at this time of year can be a real feat of endurance, and the Annapurna Circuit is often closed by snow on the Thorung La. Even the Kathmandu Valley can feel chilly after dark, and the morning mist can play havoc with flight schedules. Tourists start to leave Kathmandu in December like flocks of migratory birds, headed for the warmer climes of India or Thailand. However, this is a great time to enjoy the national parks of the Terai without the crowds.
DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…
- A face mask against Kathmandu’s air pollution, especially if you plan to rent a motorcycle or bike
- Earplugs for travel on noisy turboprop planes and local buses, and for those occasions when your hotel room faces onto a disco…
- Lip balm with sunscreen – when trekking the mountain winds and unfiltered sunlight will chap your lips in minutes
- Hiking boots or shoes – buying footwear in Nepal is a short cut to blisters
- A waterproof jacket or a solidly-built umbrella for monsoon squalls or sudden showers
- A good padlock – for closing hotel room doors and lockers at temples and museums, and locking your bag to bus baggage racks
- An LED torch for powercuts and night-time toilet trips while trekking
- Insect repellent for the Terai (plus anti-leech oil for monsoon travel)
- Swimming costume for rafting, kayaking, canyoning, elephant washing (yes, elephant washing, Click here) and, well, swimming!
- A reusable water bottle and iodine tablets – purify your own water, save money and protect the environment
Spring, from March to May, is the second-best time to visit. The weather gets steadily warmer in the run-up to the monsoon and the trekking routes are less crowded than in autumn, though cloud is more likely to roll in and obscure the views. This is also the time to observe Nepal’s wonderful rhododendrons in technicolor bloom.
The pre-monsoon period in May and early June is a poor time to visit Nepal. The Terai and Kathmandu Valley become as hot and humid as a sauna, with temperatures soaring above 30°C, and the coming monsoon seems to hang over the country like a threat. Because of its lower altitude Pokhara is warmer and more pleasant than Kathmandu during winter, but hotter before the monsoon and wetter during it.
The monsoon rains lash Nepal from mid-June to September, driving all but the most dedicated tourists away. Rafting rivers become dangerously swollen, trails in the foothills turn into rivers of mud, roads are blocked by floods and landslides, national parks close, mountain views vanish behind rain clouds, and leeches come out of hiding to feast on fresh blood. If it’s mountain scenery you are after, consider a trip to Tibet or Ladakh in India instead. On the other hand, there are fewer travellers around to spoil the peace and quiet, and there are plenty of colourful festivals in August and September.
‘It pays to monitor the political situation as you travel around Nepal.’
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IS IT SAFE?
Since the end of Nepal’s 10-year People’s War in 2008, the simple answer to that question is yes. The Maoist rebels are now the elected government of the Federal Republic of Nepal, and the deposed former king lives as a civilian in a modest two-bedroom house in Nagarjun. Political violence still flares up occasionally – usually as a result of squabbles between the youth wing of the Maoists and the youth wing of the opposition – but travellers are rarely affected, except when there is a bandh (general strike) in Kathmandu.
In the event of a strike the best thing to do is to hole up in your hotel or a Thamel cafe with a good book. Huge crowds of protesters gather in the streets and things sometimes get out of hand. The mob may express its anger by smashing the windows of cars and shops – most locals pull down their shutters and wait till the storm blows over. During a strike all roads out of Kathmandu are blocked, buses stop running and taxi drivers refuse to travel; if you need to catch a flight try to travel first thing in the morning, before the crowds gather.
It pays to monitor the political situation as you travel around Nepal. The Himalayan Times (www.thehimalayantimes.com) and other newspapers contain advance warnings of upcoming demonstrations, and your hotel will probably warn you if there is likely to be trouble. If you have a rented motorcycle, keep it inside at your hotel until the strike is over. Do not try and run the blockades – travellers are as good a target as anyone else if the crowd feels like breaking something. Click here for more advice on dealing with strikes and demonstrations.
During the uprising trekkers were often asked to pay unofficial ‘trekking taxes’ to help fund the Maoist cause. We have not heard of any such requests for money since the Communist Party of Nepal won the national elections in April 2008. However, there are still many armed people in the countryside and there is always the chance that travellers may be asked for these sorts of ‘donations’ again. As elsewhere, it makes sense to check the security situation before travelling off the beaten track.
In general, crime has declined markedly as the threat of violence from Maoists and the Nepali army has subsided. However, there is still massive inequality in Nepal so it pays to heed local warnings about areas where crime is a problem. The risk is probably highest in former Maoist strongholds such as Dolpo, the area between the Kathmandu Valley and the Arniko Hwy to Tibet, and the far east and west of the country.
HOW MUCH?
Budget hotel US$5-15
Room in a trekking lodge (per person) Rs 50-200
Admission to a museum or historic square Rs 100-200
Trekking porter per day US$8-12
Internet in Kathmandu per hour Rs 20-40
A more serious risk to safety in Nepal comes from public transport. Bus accidents are depressingly common, and few years pass without some kind of plane or helicopter disaster in the mountains. The best way to stay safe is to avoid travelling by road at night, when drivers speed dangerously and overtake with reckless abandon. Air travel in Nepal is as safe as it can be considering the landscape and the limited technology at Nepal’s domestic airports – and flying is still safer than travelling by road. However, you can reach many trailheads by road or on foot if you prefer not to fly.
To stay abreast of the political situation in Nepal, consider the following tips:
- Follow the local news through Nepali website such as www.kantipuronline.com, www.thehimalayantimes.com, www.nepalnews.com, www.nepalitimes.com.np and www.nepalnews.net.
- Check out the latest postings on the Asia-Indian Subcontinent page of Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree (www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree) or view the postings at www.trekinfo.com and http://blog.com.np.
- Always check the your government’s travel advice before travelling (see boxed text Government Travel Advice).
- Most travel warnings focus on administrative districts, which aren’t shown on many maps; for an administrative map of Nepal go to www.ncthakur.itgo.com/map04.htm.
LONELY PLANET INDEX
Litre of petrol/gas Rs 90-100
Litre of bottled water Rs 12-15
Bottle of Tuborg Beer (in a restaurant) Rs 150-200
Plate of momos (steamed dumplings) Rs 20-40
Souvenir T-shirt Rs 400
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COSTS & MONEY
By Western standards Nepal is an amazingly cheap place to travel, though prices are creeping up as the Nepali economy recovers from the hard years of the People’s War. Travelling by bus is a bargain and you can find budget accommodation almost everywhere, often for less than the price of a cup of coffee back home. Meals are also refreshingly inexpensive, except in Kathmandu where restaurants aimed at foreigners are increasingly charging Western prices.
If you go trekking food will be your biggest expense. Few lodges charge more than Rs 200 for a bed, but the bill for dinner and breakfast can easily top Rs 1000, particularly if you order alcoholic drinks. Guides and porters have also increased their rates, partly as a result of campaigns by the Maoists to ensure that rural people are properly rewarded for their labours. On one level this is righting a historical injustice, but you will have to dig deeper into your pockets than in previous years.
As a general guide you can live in Nepal for US$5 to US$10 a day if you stay in budget accommodation and adopt the Nepali diet of daal bhaat twice daily. However, this will not leave much left over to pay the admission fees to Nepal’s national parks or historic sites. While trekking you can get by on US$7 to US$12 per day if you travel without porters and guides and stay in local teahouses, but budget for US$15 per day if you want a beer with supper. The budget for organised treks will depend on the number of staff, the destination and the level of luxury that you require; bank on at least US$25 per day.
If you eat at traveller-oriented restaurants, stay in more comfortable budget hotels, visit museums and historic sites, and take taxis from time to time, your living costs will be around US$15 to US$20 a day. If you move to a midrange hotel, travel by tourist bus or chartered taxi and get involved in organised activities such as rafting, group trekking or skydiving, expect to pay US$40 to US$60.
The tourist centres of Kathmandu and Pokhara seem to suck money out of you by osmosis, partly because there are so many ways to spend it. Add 30% to your normal daily budget in either of these cities. Conversely, in the mountains, there are few places where you can spend your money – the costs of meals, a bed for the night and occasional cups of tea will be your only expenses.
‘You can often negotiate a cheaper rate for a room if you agree to stay several days’
During the Maoist uprising many hotels offered huge discounts, but this is much less widespread today. You can often negotiate a cheaper rate for a room if you agree to stay several days, but there is much less incentive for hotels to offer big discounts now that flights into Kathmandu are full. Discounts are easier to arrange in the off-season, from December to January and June to September. While trekking in the mountains you may be able to negotiate a cheaper room if you promise to eat your meals at the lodge where you stay.
Most midrange and top-end hotels and restaurants charge 13% VAT and a 10% service charge on top of published prices. Because of this, tipping is much less widespread than it used to be.
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TRAVEL LITERATURE
The Snow Leopard, by Peter Matthiessen, is partly an account of a trek to Dolpo in the west of Nepal in search of the elusive snow leopard. On another level, however, this moving book pursues the ‘big questions’ of spirituality, nature and Buddhism, with the Himalaya as a constant backdrop.
Chomolungma Sings the Blues: Travels Around Everest, by Ed Douglas, is a thought-provoking ‘state-of-the-mountain’ address detailing the side effects of Everest mountaineering – litter, pollution, exploitation – that are often airbrushed out of conventional mountaineering books.
To the Navel of the World, by Peter Somerville-Large, is a droll account of adventures and misadventures on a journey from Nepal to Tibet in the company of two yaks named Muster and Sod. His encounters with tourism in remote locations are very funny.
Travelers’ Tales Nepal, edited by Rajendra Khadka, is an anthology of 37 interesting stories from a variety of writers including Peter Matthiessen, Jan Morris and ex-US president Jimmy Carter.
Video Night in Kathmandu, by Pico Iyer, gallivants all around Asia but the chapter on Nepal has some astute and amusing observations on the collision between Nepali tradition and Western culture.
Escape from Kathmandu, by Kim Stanley Robinson, is a collection of oddball short stories set in the Himalaya, including the engaging tale of a yeti rescued from scientific experimentation by two eccentric climbers.
The Soul of the Rhino by Hemanta Mishra, one of Nepal’s leading conservationists, is a insightful introduction to the challenges facing Nepal’s one-horned rhinos and the lives of the people who share their habitat.
Arresting God in Kathmandu, by Samrat Upadhyay, is a collection of nine short stories from the first Nepali writer to be published in English, offering interesting insights into how Kathmandu residents see their own city.
Beyond the Clouds: Journeys in Search of the Himalayan Kings, by Jonathan Gregson, is a portrait of the diverse royal families of the Himalaya, including the kings of Nepal and Mustang. Blood Against the Snows by the same author focuses on the violent history of the Shah dynasty.
TOP PICKS 
FESTIVALS
Immerse yourself in Nepali culture by attending one of the country’s thrilling festivals:
- Magh Sankranti, Devghat (January; )
- Losar, all Tibetan areas (February; )
- Maha Shivaratri, Pashupatinath (February/March; )
- Bisket Jatra chariot festival, Bhaktapur (mid-April; )
- Rato Machhendranath Festival, Patan (April/May; )
- Indra Jatra chariot festival, Kathmandu (August/September; )
- Dasain, nationwide (September/October; )
- Tihar and Deepawali, nationwide (October/November; )
- Mani Rimdu, Tengboche (November; )
CLASSIC EXPERIENCES
Pack your sense of adventure and hunt down the quintessential Nepali travel moment:
- Beating a path through the crowded bazaars of old Kathmandu en route to Durbar Sq
- Lighting a butter lamp in honour of the Buddha at Bodhnath
- Getting a blessing from a Hindu priest at Pashupatinath or Budhanilkantha
- Watching the sun rise over the temples and palaces of Patan or Bhaktapur
- Riding a rented motorcycle across the Kathmandu Valley to historic Panauti
- Tracking rhinos on elephant-back at Chitwan National Park
- Viewing Everest in the morning from Kala Pattar on the Everest Base Camp Trek
- Abseiling down waterfalls on a canyoning trip near the Tibetan border Click here
- Rafting the wild white waters of the Sun Kosi
- Jumaring to the summit of Island Peak, Nepal’s most accessible trekking peak Click here
- Throwing yourself off Asia’s highest bungee jump Click here at Bhote Kosi
BOOKS
Great titles to read before setting off into the Himalaya:
- Annapurna by Maurice Herzog – a mountaineering classic from 1950
- Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer – the emotionally gripping story of the 1996 Everest disaster
- The Ascent of Rum Doodle by WE Bowman – a highly enjoyable spoof of the serious mountaineering tomes
- The Snow Leopard by Peter Matthiessen – see opposite
- Nepal Himalaya by WH Tillman – delightful wit from the 1950s
- Everest by Walt Unsworth – the ultimate Everest reference
- Touching My Father’s Soul by Jamling Tenzing Norgay – a moving mountaineering odyssey from the son of Tenzing Norgay
- Fallen Giants by M Isserman – a comprehensive guide to Himalayan mountaineering
- Himalaya by Michael Palin – tales of adventure on Annapurna and Everest by the charming ex-Python
There are numerous coffee-table books about Nepal – look out for East of Lo Manthang by Peter Matthiessen and Thomas Laird, Caravans of the Himalaya by Eric Valli and Nepal: The Kingdom in the Himalayas by Toni Hagen, one of the first Europeans to visit this once-forbidden kingdom. Mustang is also covered by Michael Peissel’s Mustang: A Lost Tibetan Kingdom, describing the author’s ground-breaking trip in 1964.
You can find all the books listed in this chapter in Kathmandu.
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INTERNET RESOURCES
- Explore Nepal (www.explorenepal.com) Nepal portal with links grouped into useful categories. Also try www.nepalhomepage.com or www.nepaltourism.info.
- Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) Get advice from other travellers on the Thorn Tree, check out the Nepal web links and book accommodation online.
- Ministry of Tourism (www.tourism.gov.np) A dry but useful official site with information on tourism, climbing and trekking regulations.
- Nepal Mountaineering Association (www.nepalmountaineering.org) Everything you need to know about climbing and trekking to the top of Nepal’s mountains. Nepal Tourism Board (www.welcomenepal.com) The official government tourism site with news, a rundown of the country’s sights and info on new areas being developed for trekking.
- Trekinfo.com (www.trekinfo.com) You guessed it – all the trekking information that you’ll need to get started, with a cracking forum board.
- Visit Nepal (www.visitnepal.com) A comprehensive site with detailed information for travellers and links to loads of organisations within the country.
- Yeti Zone (www.yetizone.com) An excellent day-by-day description of the big treks.
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Events Calendar
JANUARY–FEBRUARY (MAGH)
FEBRUARY–MARCH (FALGUN)
MARCH–APRIL (CHAITRA)
APRIL–MAY (BAISAKH)
MAY–JUNE (JETH)
JULY–AUGUST (SAAUN)
AUGUST–SEPTEMBER (BHADRA)
SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER (ASHWIN)
OCTOBER–NOVEMBER (KARTIK)
NOVEMBER–DECEMBER (MANGSIR)
Any visit to Nepal is almost certain to coincide with at least one of the country’s spectacular festivals. Celebrations range from masked dances to epic bouts of tug of war, but the most impressive are the chariot processions, during which hundreds of enthusiastic devotees drag the 20m-tall chariots through the crowded city streets.
Exact festival dates change annually due to Nepal’s lunar calendar (see boxed text Nepali Calendars); the following list gives Nepal’s major festivals in the months they usually occur, with the Nepali lunar months listed in brackets.
JANUARY–FEBRUARY (MAGH)
MAGH SANKRANTI
One of the few festivals not timed by the lunar calendar, this ritual bathing is dated by the movement north of the winter sun. Soon after, on the new-moon day, the Tribeni Mela (a mela is a fair) is held at various places including Devghat and Ridi Bazaar. Devotees also bathe in the Bagmati River at Patan’s Sankhamul ghat.
BASANTA PANCHAMI
The start of spring is celebrated in the middle of the lunar month by honouring Saraswati; since she is the goddess of learning this festival has special importance for students. The shrine to Saraswati just below the platform at the top of Swayambhunath is the most popular locale for the festivities, although Kathmandu is also popular. This is also a particularly auspicious time for weddings.
LOSAR
Tibetan New Year commences with the new moon in February and falls in either Magh or Falgun. In the Kathmandu Valley it is welcomed with particular fervour at the great stupa of Bodhnath (Boudha), as well as at Swayambhunath and in the Tibetan community at Jawalakhel, near Patan. Tibetan peoples from Dolpo in the west of Nepal to the Solu Khumbu region in the east all celebrate during this time.
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FEBRUARY–MARCH (FALGUN)
MAHA SHIVARATRI
Shiva’s birthday falls on the new-moon day of the Nepali month of Falgun. Festivities take place at all Shiva temples, but most particularly at Pashupatinath, and hundreds of sadhus flock here from all over Nepal and India. The crowds bathing in the Bagmati’s holy waters at this time are a colourful and wonderful sight.
HOLI
This exciting festival (also known as Fagu) takes place on the full-moon day in the month of Falgun. Occurring late in the dry season, the water that is sprayed around is a reminder of the cooling monsoon days to come. Also known as the Festival of Colours, coloured powder and water are also dispensed. Foreigners get special attention, so if you venture out on Holi leave your camera behind (or keep it well protected) and wear old clothes.
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MARCH–APRIL (CHAITRA)
CHAITRA DASAIN
Also known as Small Dasain, this festival takes place exactly six months prior to the more important Dasain celebration. Both Dasains are dedicated to Durga and, once again, goats and buffaloes are sacrificed early in the morning in Kot Sq in central Kathmandu. The Chaitra Dasain sacrifices also signal the start of the month-long Seto (White) Machhendranath chariot festival in Kathmandu (Click here).
SETO MACHHENDRANATH
This chariot festival isn’t as spectacular as the larger Rato Macchendranath festival in Patan (Click here) but it’s still impressive. The festival starts with removing the image of Seto Machhendranath from the temple at Kel Tole in Kathmandu and placing it on a towering, tottering rath (chariot), which crowds drag through the narrow backstreets of the old town for the next four days.
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APRIL–MAY (BAISAKH)
BISKET JATRA
Nepali New Year starts in mid-April, at the beginning of the month of Baisakh; the Bisket chariot festival in Bhaktapur is the most spectacular welcome for the New Year, and one of the most exciting annual events in the valley (Click here).
BALKUMARI JATRA
The small town of Thimi celebrates this exciting festival at this time (Click here). The New Year is also an important time in the valley for ritual bathing, and crowds of hill people visit the Buddhist stupas of Swayambhunath and Bodhnath.
GHORA JATRA
The Nepali army takes over the Tundikhel parade ground in Kathmandu on horse-racing day to display its equestrian (and motorcycle) skills. Legend has it that the horses are raced to trample devils who may rise from the ground to create havoc.
BALAJU JATRA
Thousands of pilgrims keep an all-night vigil at the Swayambhunath temple. The following day they trek to the 22 waterspouts at Balaju for a ritual bath.
RATO MACHHENDRANATH
Patan’s biggest festival involves the month-long procession of a temple chariot, culminating in the showing of the sacred vest of the god Machhendranath (Click here). The festival begins on the full moon.
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MAY–JUNE (JETH)
BUDDHA JAYANTI
A great fair is held at Lumbini (the birthplace of the Buddha) on the date of the Buddha’s birth (which is the same day as his enlightenment and passing into nirvana), and there are full-moon celebrations in Swayambhunath, Bodhnath and Patan. The Swayambhunath stupa’s collection of rare thangkas is displayed on the southern wall of the courtyard only on this day each year. There are also colourful monk dances.
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JULY–AUGUST (SAAUN)
GHANTA KARNA
This festival is named after ‘bell ears’, a horrible demon who wore bell earrings to drown out the name of Vishnu, his sworn enemy. This festival, on the 14th day of the dark fortnight of Saaun, celebrates his destruction when a god, disguised as a frog, lured him into a deep well where the people stoned and clubbed him to death. Ghanta Karna is burnt in effigy on this night throughout Newari villages to cleanse evil from the land for another year.
NAGA PANCHAMI
On the fifth day after the new moon in the month of Saaun, nagas (serpent deities) are honoured all over the country. Nagas are considered to have magical powers over the monsoon rains. Protective pictures of the nagas are hung over doorways of houses and food is put out for snakes, including a bowl of rice. Click here for more information.
JANAI PURNIMA
Around the full moon in the month of Saaun, all high-caste men (Chhetri and Brahmin) must change the janai (sacred thread), which they wear looped over their left shoulder. Janai Purnima also brings crowds of pilgrims to sacred Gosainkund lakes Click here, where they garland a statue of Shiva and throw coins at a sacred lingam, and the Kumbeshwar Temple in Patan.
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AUGUST–SEPTEMBER (BHADRA)
GAI JATRA
This ‘Cow Festival’ takes place immediately after Janai Purnima and is dedicated to those who died during the preceding year. Newars believe that, after death, cows will guide them to Yama, the god of the underworld. On this day cows are led through the streets of the valley’s towns and small boys dress up as cows. The festival is celebrated with maximum energy on the streets of Bhaktapur.
KRISHNA JAYANTI (KRISHNA’S BIRTHDAY)
The seventh day after the full moon in the month of Bhadra is celebrated as Krishna’s birthday (also known as Krishnasthami). An all-night vigil is kept at the Krishna Mandir in Patan on the night before his birthday: oil lamps light the temple and singing continues through the night.
TEEJ
The Festival of Women lasts from the second to the fifth day after the Bhadra new moon, and is particularly celebrated at Pashupatinath. The festival starts on the first day with a sumptuous meal and party, until midnight when women commence a 24-hour fast. On the second day women dress in their red wedding saris and head to Shiva temples across the country to pray for a happy marriage. A ritual bathing ceremony brings the festival to a close.
GOKARNA AUNSI
The Nepali equivalent of Father’s Day is celebrated by visiting fathers at their homes or honouring deceased fathers at the Shiva temple in Gokarna, in the Kathmandu Valley.
INDRA JATRA
This colourful festival at the end of the month combines homage to Indra with an annual appearance by Kathmandu’s Kumari (a living goddess), paying respect to Bhairab and the commemoration of the conquest of the valley by Prithvi Narayan Shah. It also marks the end of the monsoon. The most spectacular celebrations are in Kathmandu.
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SEPTEMBER–OCTOBER (ASHWIN)
PACHALI BHAIRAB JATRA
The fearsome form of Bhairab, Pachali Bhairab, is honoured on the fourth day of the bright fortnight in September or early October. Bhairab’s bloodthirsty nature means that there are numerous animal sacrifices.
DASAIN
Nepal’s biggest annual festival, Dasain, lasts for 15 days. It celebrates the victory of the goddess Durga over the forces of evil (personified in the buffalo demon Mahisasura): across the country hundreds of thousands of animals are sacrificed in Durga’s honour. In the countryside, swings and primitive hand-powered Ferris wheels are erected at the entrance to villages. For information on disruptions to services during the festival Click here.
FULPATI (PHULPATI)
Fulpati (‘Sacred Flowers’) is the first really important day of Dasain and is called the ‘Seventh Day’ although it may not actually fall on the seventh day. A jar containing flowers is carried from Gorkha to Kathmandu and presented to the president at the Tundikhel parade ground. The flowers symbolise Taleju, the goddess of the former royal family. From the parade ground the flowers are transported on a palanquin to Hanuman Dhoka (the old Royal Palace) in Durbar Sq.
MAHA ASTAMI
The ‘Great Eighth Day’ and Kala Ratri, the ‘Black Night’, follow Fulpati, and mark the start of the sacrifices and offerings to Durga. The hundreds of goats you see contentedly grazing in the Tundikhel parkland prior to Maha Astami are living on borrowed time. At midnight, in a temple courtyard near Durbar Sq, eight buffaloes and 108 goats are beheaded, each with a single stroke of a sword or knife.
NAVAMI
The sacrifices continue on Kot Sq the next day: visitors can witness the bloodshed but you’ll need to arrive early to secure a place. Blood is sprinkled on the wheels of cars and other vehicles to ensure a safe year on the road. At the airport, each Nepal Airlines aircraft will have a goat sacrificed to it! The average Nepali does not eat much meat but, on this day, almost everybody in the country will find that goat is on the menu.
VIJAYA DASHAMI
The 10th day of the festival is a family affair: cards and greetings are exchanged, family visits are made and parents place a tika on their children’s foreheads. The evening is marked by processions and masked dances across the Kathmandu Valley. The Kharga Jatra, or sword procession, features priests dressed up as the various gods and carrying wooden swords. This day also celebrates the victory of Lord Rama over the evil demon-king Ravana in the Ramayana.
KARTIKA PURNIMA
The full-moon day in September/October marks the end of Dasain. It is celebrated with gambling in many households: you will see even small children avidly putting a few coins down on various local games of chance.
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OCTOBER–NOVEMBER (KARTIK)
TIHAR
Tihar (also called Diwali or Deepawali after the third day of celebrations) takes place in late October or early November. It is the most important Hindu festival in India; in Nepal it ranks second only to Dasain. The festival honours certain animals, starting with offerings of rice to the crows (‘messengers of death’ sent by the god Yama). Dogs (who guide departed souls across the river of the dead) are honoured on day two, with cows and bullocks following on days three and four.
DEEPAWALI (FESTIVAL OF LIGHTS)
The third day of Tihar is the most important, when Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, comes to visit every home that has been suitably lit for her presence. No one likes to turn down a visit from the goddess of wealth and so homes throughout the country are brightly lit with candles and lamps. The effect is highlighted because Deepawali falls on the new-moon day.
NEWARI NEW YEAR
The fourth day of Tihar is also the start of the New Year for the Newari people of the Kathmandu Valley.
BHAI TIKA
On the fifth day of Tihar, brothers and sisters are supposed to meet and place tikas on each others’ foreheads. Sisters offer small gifts of fruit and sweets to their brothers, while the brothers give their sisters money in return. The markets and bazaars are busy supplying the appropriate gifts.
HARIBODHINI EKADASHI
An ekadashi (the 11th day after each new and full moon) happens twice in every lunar month and is regarded as an auspicious day. The Haribodhini Ekadashi, in late October or early November (on the 11th day after the new moon), is the most important. On this day Vishnu awakens from his four-month monsoonal slumber. The best place to see the festivities is at the temple of the sleeping Vishnu in Budhanilkantha.
MAHALAKSHMI PUJA
Lakshmi is the goddess of wealth, and to farmers wealth is rice. Therefore this harvest festival, immediately following Haribodhini Ekadashi, honours the goddess with sacrifices and colourful dances.
MANI RIMDU
This popular Sherpa festival takes place at the monastery of Tengboche in the Solu Khumbu region Click here and features masked dances and dramas. The dates for the festivals are worked out according to the Tibetan lunar calendar (www.tengboche.org for details). Another Mani Rimdu festival takes place six months later at Thame Gompa, a day’s walk west of Namche Bazaar.
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NOVEMBER–DECEMBER (MANGSIR)
BALA CHATURDASHI
Like ekadashi, there are two chaturdashis each month. Bala Chaturdashi falls on the new-moon day in late November or early December. Pilgrims flock to Pashupatinath, burning oil lamps at night, scattering grain for the dead and bathing in the holy Bagmati River (Click here).
SITA BIBAHA PANCHAMI
On the fifth day of the bright fortnight in late November or early December, tens of thousands of pilgrims from all over Nepal and India flock to Janakpur (the birthplace of Sita) to celebrate the marriage of Sita to Rama. The wedding is re-enacted with a procession carrying Rama’s image to Sita’s temple by elephant (Click here).
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Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
FROM BUDDHA TO BOUDHA
ROAMING HIGH & LOW
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
TAILORED TRIPS
A SPIRITUAL ODYSSEY
CLASSIC ROUTES
THE KATHMANDU VALLEY One Week / Kathmandu to Kathmandu
A week will give you time to whistle around the cultural highlights of the Kathmandu Valley. Start off with the walking tour south from Thamel to the stunning temples and palaces of Durbar Square.
On day two, walk to towering Swayambhunath and the quirky National Museum. You can fill the afternoon with a trip to the famous stupa at glorious Bodhnath.
Fans of culture and human creativity will find glorious palaces, sanctified stupas and towering temples scattered across the hillsides on the 40km trip exploring the Kathmandu Valley.
Make time for a full-day trip to Patan’s spectacular Durbar Square, combined with a slap-up lunch. Complete the trilogy of former royal kingdoms with a full-day visit to medieval Bhaktapur, ideally with an overnight stay.
Next get your Himalayan kick with dawn views at Nagarkot or Dhulikhel before returning to Kathmandu the next morning. Fill another day by mountain biking to the southern valley towns of Kirtipur and Bungamati.
On your last day, take time for some serious shopping in Kathmandu or the fair trade shops of Patan.
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FROM BUDDHA TO BOUDHA Two Weeks / Lumbini to Bodhnath
To catch some culture as you head north from the Indian border to Kathmandu, kick off at Lumbini, the birthplace of the Buddha, 20km from the border crossing. Take your time exploring this world map of Buddhist temples, then spend the next day at the little-visited archaeological site of Tilaurakot, where the Buddha once ruled as a pampered prince.
From Lumbini make a beeline for Chitwan National Park, taking two or three days to get up close and personal with the wildlife. You can’t get more up close and personal than helping out at elephant bathtime.
Mixing contemplative temple tours, ancient pilgrimage sites and ruins with wilderness adventures, this 500km route is one part meditation with two parts adrenaline.
From Chitwan take the day-long tourist bus to Pokhara for your first proper peek at the mountains. While in the Pokhara area, take a few days to hike up to the World Peace Pagoda, to enjoy the views at lofty Sarangkot or plummet past the peaks on a tandem paraglide.
Another long bus trip will take you to Kathmandu, where you can fill a week with the pick of the Kathmandu Valley itinerary Click here. Make time to explore the backstreets of Bhaktapur on a walking tour, gain a deeper understanding of Buddhist art at Patan Museum and enjoy the views over the city at dusk from Swayambhunath.
There should just be time for an overnight sortie to experience wild adventure activities at the Last Resort or Borderlands Resort, which are both a half-day drive from Kathmandu towards the Tibetan border.
On your last day, give thanks for a head-spinning trip at Bodhnath where you can hit the shops and pick up a statue, Buddha or bundle of prayer flags to take home.
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ROAMING HIGH & LOW One Month / Kathmandu to Kathmandu
With a month to spare, you can explore the Kathmandu Valley and fit in a trek into the mighty Himalaya. To truly experience Nepal and its people you have to do it on foot, but you don’t have to give up all creature comforts. There are lodges along the major trail routes offering simple bedrooms, solar-powered showers, hot tea, high-carb meals, sanity-restoring chocolate and heated chang (rice beer).
From Kathmandu, fly east to Lukla (book return flights from Lukla to Kathmandu before arriving in Nepal). From here you can embark on a trek through truly wild scenery to Everest Base Camp. This is perhaps the definitive Himalayan trek, climbing among snow peaks to the base of the tallest mountain on earth, but the trek takes at least two weeks because of the gain in altitude.
Experience Nepal’s ‘peaks and troughs’ on a trek to the highest peak on earth and a ramble around the fascinating Kathmandu Valley. Take your time and pause at teahouses en route.
With a month to play with, consider doing an Everest loop, returning from Base Camp via the spectacular Gokyo Valley for a total trek of around 21 days. Because of the changeable weather in Nepal, it’s wise to leave yourself a buffer at the end of the trip in case flights are cancelled. Do your Kathmandu Valley sightseeing after the trek, not before.
After the thrills and chills of the mountains, go southwest from Kathmandu to warm your toes in steamy Chitwan National Park while you scan the jungle for rhinos and tigers. Finish off by exploring the highlights of the Kathmandu Valley itinerary Click here. Go shopping for a singing bowl in Kathmandu before you board the plane home.
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ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
ONCE AROUND THE MIDDLE
Many of the most interesting attractions are scattered like pearls around the impenetrable hills in the middle of Nepal. Start with Kathmandu’s temples and stupas, then book a rafting trip east along the Trisuli. After a few days churning on the rapids enjoy a smoother ride on the Manakamana cable car to experience the strange atmosphere of a Tantric temple.
Next stop is Bandipur, a little-visited gem of a village where you can stroll to eerie caverns and relax among some wondrous Newari architecture. From here, roll on to Pokhara for a row-boat ride around the lake and a quick jaunt across to Begnas Tal.
Ditch the crowds on a 400km loop around Nepal’s cultural heartland, picking the best from the hills and plains. Take an excellent day hike that won’t require trekking boots or muscles of steel!
Take the winding Siddhartha Hwy south to charming Tansen, the base for some great day hikes. Continue south to peaceful Lumbini to amble around the Buddhist monasteries by bicycle.
Having come this far, it would be a shame to miss Chitwan National Park. If budget allows, stay at one of the lodges deep inside the park. You might also consider an uphill tramp to the Chepang hills or a thoughtful stroll to the sacred village of Devghat.
The logical return route would be to follow the snaking Tribhuvan Hwy north to Daman, but you could also travel east to the new highway from Bardibas to Dhulikhel, allowing time for a detour to the temple-town of Janakpur.
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TAILORED TRIPS
UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITES
The entire Kathmandu Valley is a World Heritage area made up of seven individual sites. Most visitors to the country are floored by the architectural wonders of the Durbar Squares (Kathmandu, Click here; Patan, Click here; Bhaktapur, Click here).
There is a hierarchy to these three medieval sites – Patan’s Durbar Sq is the most impressive, while Kathmandu’s is the busiest and Bhaktapur’s is the most peaceful, especially if you arrive there at first light, before the tourist crowds descend.
Swayambhunath’s swooningly beautiful Buddhist stupa is matched by the impressive Bodhnath stupa, and both are on the heritage list, as is the revered Hindu Pashupatinath temple complex, set beside the dirty but divine Bagmati River.
The last two cultural heritage sites are the statue-filled Changu Narayan Temple, an open-air museum of priceless stone sculpture, and the birthplace of the Buddha at Lumbini, which is building itself a new heritage in the form of gleaming temples constructed by every Buddhist nation.
Nepal also has two natural World Heritage sites: the breathless, mountain scenery of Sagarmatha National Park, surrounding Mt Everest and accessible on the Everest Base Camp Trek, and the steamy, rhino-rumbling, tiger-striped jungles of Chitwan National Park.
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A SPIRITUAL ODYSSEY
There’s soul in them thar hills, and this is where to find it. Start your quest for inner knowledge with a dawn ceremonial circuit around Swayambhunath hill and a sunset trip to Bodhnath – come during full moon when the stupa is lit up by thousands of flickering butter lamps. Contemplate the meaning of life and death on the cremation ghats of Pashupatinath or the sacrificial altars of Dakshinkali or Manakamana.
For less gruesome rituals, head north across the valley to Budhanilkantha, where devotees pile offerings onto a giant floating statue of Narayan, the creator of the universe. Nepal’s spiritual side goes into overdrive for its vivid festivals – visit in April or May when devotees haul a sacred image of Rato Machhendranath around Patan in a towering, medieval chariot at the Rato Machhendranath festival.
Often the most spiritual places are away from the crowds. Find space for reflection on the uplifting trek to the sacred lake at Gosainkund or pay your respects at Tengboche Monastery before crossing the Cho La pass from the Khumbu Valley to the sacred lakes at Gokyo.
Lastly, see how ordinary people blend spirituality into their daily lives at Sankhu, Bungamati or temple-filled Panauti.
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History
THE KIRATIS & BUDDHIST BEGINNINGS
LICCHAVIS, THAKURIS, THEN DARKNESS
THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE MALLAS
UNIFICATION UNDER THE SHAHS
THE RANOCRACY
RESTORATION OF THE SHAHS
PEOPLE POWER
THE PEOPLE’S WAR
ROYAL TROUBLES & POLITICAL CHANGE
THE HARD WORK BEGINS
TIMELINE
The history of Nepal began in, and centres on, the Kathmandu Valley. Over the centuries Nepal’s boundaries have extended to include huge tracts of neighbouring India, and contracted to little more than the Kathmandu Valley and a handful of nearby city states, but the valley remained the crucible of political power and cultural sophistication. Though it has ancient roots, the modern state of Nepal emerged only in the 18th century and is in many ways still forging itself as a modern nation state.
Nepal is said to get its name from Nepa, the name given to the Newari kingdom of the Kathmandu Valley; the word Nepa is derived from the name of a mythological Hindu sage, Ne, who once lived in the valley.
Squeezed between the Tibetan plateau and the plains of the subcontinent – the modern-day giants of China and India – Nepal has long prospered from its location as a resting place for traders, travellers and pilgrims. An ethnic melting pot, it has bridged cultures and absorbed elements of its neighbours, yet retained a unique character.
After travelling through India and Nepal for a while, many travellers notice both the similarities and differences. ‘Same, same’, they say, ‘…but different’.
THE KIRATIS & BUDDHIST BEGINNINGS
Nepal’s recorded history emerges from the mist with the Hindu Kiratis. Arriving from the east around the 7th or 8th century BC, these Mongoloid people are the first known rulers of the Kathmandu Valley. King Yalambar (the first of their 29 kings) is mentioned in the Mahabharata, the Hindu epic, but little more is known about them.
In the 6th century BC, Prince Siddhartha Gautama was born into the Sakya royal family of Kapilavastu, near Lumbini, later embarking on a path of meditation and thought that led him to enlightenment as the Buddha. The religion that grew up around him continues to shape the face of Asia.
You can visit the archaeological site of Kapilavastu, where Siddhartha Gautama (the Buddha) lived for first 29 years of his life, at Tilaurakot.
Around the 2nd century BC, the great Indian Buddhist emperor Ashoka visited Lumbini and erected a pillar at the birthplace of the Buddha. Popular legend recounts how he then visited the Kathmandu Valley and erected four stupas around Patan, but there is no evidence that he actually made it there in person. Either way, his Mauryan empire (321–184 BC) played a major role in popularising Buddhism in the region, a role continued by the north Indian Buddhist Kushan empire, which spanned the 1st to 3rd centuries AD.
Over the centuries a resurgent Hinduism came to eclipse Buddhism across the subcontinent and by the time the Chinese Buddhist pilgrims Fa Xian (Fa Hsien) and Xuan Zang (Hsuan Tsang) passed through the region in the 5th and 7th centuries the site of Lumbini was already in ruins.
WARNING ABOUT FACTS & FIGURES
References for most things in Nepal are inconsistent. For example, we’ve seen several different figures for the amount of square kilometres Nepal occupies. When temples were built is also a matter of speculation: some sources give a date of construction for a certain temple and the period of reign for the king who built it, and the two only sometimes coincide.
Many temples in Nepal have alternative names. For example, Vishnu Temple in Patan’s Durbar Sq is referred to as Jagannarayan or Charnarayan Temple. Where possible we have provided alternative names that are commonly used.
Further confusion results from different systems of transliteration from Sanskrit – the letter ‘h’, or the use of the double ‘hh’ appears inconsistently, so you may see Machhendranath and Machendranath (and no one really knows how to spell Machhapuchhare!). This difference only occurs during transliteration, of course – the Nepali script is always consistent. The letters ‘b’ and ‘v’ are also used interchangeably in different systems – Shiva’s fearsome manifestation is Bhairab or Bhairav.
Finally, texts differ in their use of the words Nepali and Nepalese. In this book we use Nepali for the language and for other terms relating to the country and the people.
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LICCHAVIS, THAKURIS, THEN DARKNESS
Buddhism faded and Hinduism reasserted itself with the arrival from northern India of the Licchavis. In AD 300 they overthrew the Kiratis, who resettled in the east to become the ancestors of today’s Rai and Limbu people.
Between the 4th and 9th centuries the Licchavis ushered in a golden age of cultural brilliance. Their strategic position allowed them to prosper from trade between India and China. The chaityas (a particular style of stupas) and monuments of this era can still be seen at the Changu Narayan Temple, north of Bhaktapur, and in the backstreets of Kathmandu’s old town. It’s believed that the original stupas at Chabahil, Bodhnath and Swayambhunath date from the Licchavi era.
Amsuvarman, the first Thakuri king, came to power in 602, succeeding his Licchavi father-in-law. He consolidated his power to the north and south by marrying his sister to an Indian prince and his daughter Bhrikuti to the great Tibetan king Songsten Gompo. Together with the Tibetan king’s Chinese wife Wencheng, Bhrikuti managed to convert the king to Buddhism around 640, changing the face of both Tibet and, later, Nepal.
For an online history of Nepal visit www.infoclub.com.np/nepal/history.
From the late 7th century until the 13th century Nepal slipped into its ‘dark ages’, of which little is known. Tibet invaded in 705 and Kashmir invaded in 782. The Kathmandu Valley’s strategic location and fertile soil, however, ensured the kingdom’s growth and survival. King Gunakamadeva is credited with founding Kantipur, today’s Kathmandu, around the 10th century.
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THE GOLDEN AGE OF THE MALLAS
The first of the Malla kings came to power in the Kathmandu Valley around 1200. The Mallas (literally ‘wrestlers’ in Sanskrit) had been forced out of India and their name can be found in the Mahabharata and in Buddhist literature. This period was a golden one that stretched over 550 years, though it was peppered with fighting over the valuable trade routes to Tibet.
The first Malla rulers had to cope with several disasters. A huge earthquake in 1255 killed around one-third of Nepal’s population. A devastating Muslim invasion by Sultan Shams-ud-din of Bengal less than a century later left plundered Hindu and Buddhist shrines in its wake, though the invasion did not leave a lasting cultural effect (unlike in the Kashmir Valley which remains Muslim to this day). In India the damage was more widespread and many Hindus were driven into the hills and mountains of Nepal, where they established small Rajput principalities.
The mid-13th century saw the de facto rule of Queen Devaladevi, the most powerful woman in Nepal’s history.
Apart from this, the earlier Malla years (1220–1482) were largely stable, reaching a high point under the third Malla dynasty of Jayasthithi Malla (r 1382–1395), who united the valley and codified its laws, including the caste system.
After the death of Jayasthithi Malla’s grandson Yaksha Malla in 1482, the Kathmandu Valley was divided up among his sons into the three kingdoms of Bhaktapur (Bhadgaon), Kathmandu (Kantipur) and Patan (Lalitpur). The rest of what we today call Nepal consisted of a fragmented patchwork of almost 50 independent states, stretching from Palpa and Jumla in the west to the semi-independent states of Banepa and Pharping, most of them minting their own coins and maintaining standing armies.
The rivalry between the three kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley found its expression not only in warfare but also in the arts and culture, which flourished in the competitive climate. The outstanding collections of exquisite temples and buildings in each city’s Durbar Sq are testament to the huge amounts of money spent by rulers desperate to outdo each other.
Nepal’s flag is like no other, consisting of two overlapping red triangles, bearing a white moon and a white 12-pointed sun (the first mythological kings of Nepal are said to be descendents of the sun and moon).
The building boom was financed by trade, in everything from musk and wool to salt, Chinese silk and even yak tails. The Kathmandu Valley stood at the departure point for two separate routes into Tibet, via Banepa to the northeast and via Rasuwa and the Kyirong Valley near Langtang to the northwest. Traders would cross the jungle-infested Terai during winter to avoid the virulent malaria and then wait in Kathmandu for the mountain passes to open later that summer. Kathmandu grew rich and its rulers converted their wealth into gilded pagodas and ornately carved royal palaces. In the mid-17th century Nepal gained the right to mint Tibet’s coins using Tibetan silver, further enriching the kingdom’s coffers.
In Kathmandu King Pratap Malla (1641–74) oversaw that city’s cultural highpoint with the construction of the Hanuman Dhoka palace, the Rani Pokhari pond and the first of several subsequent pillars that featured a statue of the king facing the protective temple of Taleju, who the Mallas had by that point adopted as their protective deity. The mid-17th century also saw a highpoint of building in Patan.
The Malla era shaped the religious as well as artistic landscape, introducing the dramatic chariot festivals of Indra Jatra and Machhendranath. The Malla kings shored up their position by claiming to be reincarnations of the Hindu god Vishnu and establishing the cult of the Kumari, a living goddess whose role it was to bless the Malla’s rule during an annual celebration.
For more on the Kumari see the boxed text Kumari Devi.
The cosmopolitan Mallas also absorbed foreign influences. The Indian Mughal court influenced Malla dress and painting, presented the Nepalis with firearms and introduced the system of land grants for military service, a system which would have a profound effect in later years. In the early 18th century Capuchin missionaries passed through Nepal to Tibet, and when they returned home gave the West its first descriptions of exotic Kathmandu.
But change didn’t only come from abroad. A storm was brewing inside Nepal, just 100km to the east of Kathmandu.
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UNIFICATION UNDER THE SHAHS
In 1768 Prithvi Narayan Shah, ruler of the tiny hilltop kingdom of Gorkha (halfway between Pokhara and Kathmandu), stood poised on the edge of the Kathmandu Valley, ready to realise his dream of a unified Nepal. It had taken more than a quarter of a century of conquest and consolidation to get here but Shah was about to redraw the political landscape of the Himalaya.
Nepal’s founding father, Prithvi Narayan Shah, referred to Nepal as ‘a yam between two boulders’ – namely China and India – a metaphor that is as true geologically as it is historically.
Shah had taken the strategic hilltop fort of Nuwakot as early as 1744, blockading the valley after fighting off reinforcements from the British East India Company, but it took him until 1768 to take Kathmandu, sneaking in while everyone was drunk during the Indra Jatra festival. A year later he finally took Kirtipur, after three lengthy failed attempts. In terrible retribution his troops hacked 120lb of noses and lips off Kirtipur’s residents; unsurprisingly, resistance throughout the valley quickly crumbled. In 1769 he advanced on the three cowering Malla kings and ended the Malla rule, thus unifying Nepal.
Shah moved his capital from Gorkha to Kathmandu, establishing the Shah dynasty, whose line continues to this day. Shah died just six years later in Nuwakot but is still revered as the founder of the nation.
Shah had built his empire on conquest and his insatiable army needed ever more booty and land to keep it satisfied. Within six years the Gurkhas had conquered eastern Nepal and Sikkim. The expansion then turned westwards into Kumaon and Garhwal, only halted on the borders of the Punjab by the armies of the powerful one-eyed ruler Ranjit Singh.
The expanding boundaries of ‘Greater Nepal’ by this time stretched from Kashmir to Sikkim, eventually putting it on a collision course with the world’s most powerful empire, the British Raj. Despite early treaties with the British, disputes over the Terai led to the first Anglo-Nepali war, which the British won after a two-year fight. The British were so impressed by their enemy that they decided to incorporate Gurkha mercenaries into their own army, a practice that continues to this day (Gurkha troops served recently in Iraq and Afghanistan).
The 1816 Sugauli treaty called a screeching halt to Nepal’s expansion and laid down its modern boundaries. Nepal lost Sikkim, Kumaon, Garhwal and much of the Terai, though some of this land was restored to Nepal in 1858 in return for support given to the British during the Indian Mutiny (Indian War of Independence). A British resident was sent to Kathmandu to keep an eye on things but the Raj knew that it would be too difficult to colonise the impossible hill terrain and were content to keep Nepal as a buffer state. Nepalis to this day are proud that their country was never colonised by the British, unlike the neighbouring hill states of India.
Visit the birthplace and launching pad of Nepal’s unifier, Prithvi Narayan Shah, at Gorkha.
Following its humiliating defeat, Nepal cut itself off from all foreign contact from 1816 until 1951. The British residents in Kathmandu were the only Westerners to set eyes on Nepal for more than a century.
On the cultural front, temple construction continued apace, though perhaps of more import to ordinary people was the revolutionary introduction, via India, of chillies, potatoes, tobacco and other New World crops.
The Shah rulers, meanwhile, swung from ineffectual to seriously deranged. At one point the kingdom was governed by a 12-year-old female regent, in charge of a nine-year-old king! One particularly sadistic ruler, Crown Prince Surendra (r 1847–81), expanded the horizons of human suffering by ordering subjects to jump down wells or ride off cliffs, just to see whether they would survive.
A History of Nepal by John Whelpton is one of the few available titles on the subject. It concentrates on the last 250 years and explains not only political events but also changes in people’s lives. It’s cheaper to buy in Nepal than abroad.
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THE RANOCRACY
The death of Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1775 set in motion a string of succession struggles, infighting, assassinations, backstabbing and intrigue that culminated in the Kot Massacre in 1846. This bloody night was engineered by the young Chhetri noble Jung Bahadur and it catapulted his family into power, just as it sidelined the Shah dynasty.
Ambitious and ruthless, Jung Bahadur organised (with the queen’s consent) for his soldiers to massacre 55 of the most important noblemen in the kingdom while they were assembled in the Kot courtyard adjoining Kathmandu’s Durbar Sq. He then exiled 6000 members of their families to prevent revenge attacks.
Jung Bahadur took the title of prime minister and changed his family name to the more prestigious ‘Rana’. He later extended his title to maharajah (king) and decreed it hereditary. The Ranas became a parallel ‘royal family’ within the kingdom and held the reins of power – the Shah kings became listless figureheads, requiring permission even to leave their palace.
The family line of Rana prime ministers held power for more than a century, eventually intermarrying with the Shahs. Development in Nepal stagnated, although the country did manage to preserve its independence. Only on rare occasions were visitors allowed into Nepal.
Jung Bahadur Rana travelled to Europe in 1850, attending the opera and the races at Epsom, and brought back a taste for neoclassical architecture that can be seen in Kathmandu today. To the Ranas’ credit, while they were in power sati (the Hindu practice of casting a widow on her husband’s funeral pyre) was abolished, 60,000 slaves were released from bondage, and a school and college were established in the capital. But while the Ranas and their relatives lived lives of opulent luxury, the peasants in the hills were locked in a medieval existence.
Jung Bahadur Rana broke a religious taboo by becoming the first Nepali ruler to cross the kalo pani (black water, or ocean) and thus temporarily losing his caste, when he travelled to Europe in 1850.
Modernisation began to dawn on Kathmandu with the opening of the Bir Hospital, Nepal’s first, in 1889, the first piped water system, limited electricity and the construction of the Singh Durbar. In 1923 Britain formally acknowledged Nepal’s independence and in 1930 the kingdom of Gorkha was renamed the kingdom of Nepal, reflecting a growing sense of national consciousness.
The arrival of the Indian railway line at the Nepali border greatly aided the transportation of goods but sounded a death knell for the caravan trade that bartered Nepali grain and rice for Tibetan salt. The transborder trade suffered another setback when the British opened a second, more direct trade route with Tibet through Sikkim’s Chumbi Valley (the real nail in the coffin came in the 1960s, when the Chinese closed the border to local trade).
Elsewhere in the region dramatic changes were taking place. The Nepalis supplied logistical help during Britain’s invasion of Tibet in 1903, and over 300,000 Nepalis fought in WWI and WWII, garnering a total of 13 Victoria Crosses – Britain’s highest military honour – for their efforts.
For an overview of Kathmandu’s crumbling Rana palaces see the boxed text Kathmandu’s Royal Palaces.
After WWII India gained its independence and the communist revolution took place in China. Tibetan refugees fled into Nepal in the first of several waves when the new People’s Republic of China tightened its grip on Tibet, and Nepal became a buffer zone between the two rival Asian giants. At the same time King Tribhuvan, forgotten in his palace, was being primed to overthrow the Ranas.
The first cars were transported to the Kathmandu Valley in parts, on the backs of porters, before there were even any roads or petrol in the kingdom.
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RESTORATION OF THE SHAHS
In late 1950 King Tribhuvan was driving himself to a hunting trip at Nagarjun when he suddenly swerved James Bond–style into the expecting Indian embassy, claimed political immunity and was flown to Delhi in an Indian Air Force jet. Meanwhile, the recently formed Nepali Congress Party, led by BP Koirala, managed to take most of the Terai by force from the Ranas and established a provisional government that ruled from the border town of Birganj. India exerted its considerable influence and negotiated a solution to Nepal’s turmoil, and King Tribhuvan returned in glory to Nepal in 1951 to set up a new government composed of demoted Ranas and members of the Nepali Congress Party.
HISTORY OF MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL
Mountaineering became a fashionable pursuit in Europe during the second half of the 19th century and after knocking off the main Alpine peaks, Europeans turned their gaze to the greater challenge of the Himalaya. Englishman WW Graham reached the top of a 6000m Nepali peak in 1883 and he was followed by another Englishman, Tom Longstaff, who climbed the Indian peak of Trisuli (7215m) in 1907. For the next 20 years this remained the highest summit reached in the world, until Bill Tilman’s ascent of India’s Nanda Devi in 1936.
The opening of Nepal to foreigners in the 1950s ushered in the golden decade of Himalayan mountaineering. Trekker-mountaineers like WH Tilman and Eric Shipton pioneered the southern approach routes to Everest, which had previously been tackled from the northern Tibetan side. The French were the first to claim an 8000m peak, summiting Annapurna in 1950. Three years later Hillary and Tenzing ‘knocked the bastard off’, conquering Everest just in time for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II. The big peaks fell like dominoes: Cho Oyu in 1954 (Austrians), Kanchenjunga (British) and Makalu (French) in 1955, Lhotse (Swiss) and Manaslu (Japanese) in 1956 and, finally, Dhaulagiri in 1960 (Swiss).
The 1953 British expedition to Everest marked the trend towards larger and larger military-style expeditions. The few climbers who reached the summit did so with aid of a huge pyramid of supporters below them, including dozens of Sherpa guides and hundreds of local porters.
By the early 1970s the emphasis had shifted to smaller-scale, more technical climbs such as the south face of Annapurna and the southwest face of Everest, both of which were climbed brilliantly by expeditions led by Chris Bonington. The great Italian climber Reinhold Messner pulled off several spectacular ascents, including the first ascent of Everest without oxygen in 1978 and the first solo ascent from the north side in 1980 (from base camp to the summit and back in 48 hours). Messner became the first person to summit all 14 of the world’s 8000m peaks.
The effect on the environment was devastating, as forests fell to provide firewood for the expeditions and vast amounts of mountaineering equipment, oxygen canisters, garbage and even dead bodies were left behind on the high glaciers. Everest Base Camp quickly earned the dubious title of ‘world’s highest garbage dump’.
By the 1990s climbing in general and Everest in particular had become increasingly commercialised. The much-publicised 1996 ‘Into Thin Air’ disaster highlighted the reality that many inexperienced climbers are now assisted to the summit on commercial climbs. Stories of human traffic jams at the Hillary Step, and of sick climbers left to die on the mountain by climbers desperate to reach the summit have tarnished the mountain’s reputation. With an organised climb fee averaging US$65,000 per person, Everest has become a moneymaker – a rock star surrounded by groupies eager to share in its fame. While Everest has come to symbolise the high point of human achievement, it also represents the worst of modern climbing.
‘I think the whole attitude towards climbing Everest has become rather horrifying,’ was the opinion of Edmund Hillary in 2006. ‘Human life is far more important than getting to the top of a mountain.’
Although Nepal gradually reopened its long-closed doors and established relations with other nations, dreams of a new democratic system were not permanently realised. Tribhuvan died in 1955 and was succeeded by his cautious son Mahendra. A new constitution provided for a parliamentary system of government and in 1959 Nepal held its first general election. The Nepali Congress Party won a clear victory and BP Koirala became the new prime minister. In late 1960, however, the king decided the government wasn’t to his taste after all, and he had the cabinet arrested and swapped his ceremonial role for real control (much as King Gyanendra would do 46 years later).
In 1962 Mahendra decided that a partyless, indirect panchayat (council) system of government was more appropriate to Nepal. The real power remained with the king, who chose 16 members of the 35-member National Panchayat, and appointed the prime minister and his cabinet. Political parties were banned.
Mahendra died in 1972 and was succeeded by his 27-year-old British-educated son Birendra. Nepal’s hippy community was unceremoniously booted out of the country when visa laws were tightened in the run-up to Birendra’s spectacular coronation in 1975. Simmering discontent with corruption, the slow rate of development and the rising cost of living erupted into violent riots in Kathmandu in 1979. King Birendra announced a referendum to choose between the panchayat system and one that would permit political parties to operate. The result was 55% to 45% in favour of the panchayat system; democracy had been outvoted.
Nepal’s military and police apparatus were among the least publicly accountable in the world and strict censorship was enforced. Mass arrests, torture and beatings of suspected activists were well documented, and the leaders of the main opposition, the Nepali Congress, spent the years between 1960 and 1990 in and out of prison.
When King Gyanendra was crowned in 2001 he may well have experienced a feeling of déjà vu – he had already been crowned once before, aged three, and ruled as king for three months, after his grandfather Tribhuvan fled to India in 1950.
During this time there were impressive movements towards development, namely in education and road construction, with the number of schools increasing from 300 in 1950 to over 40,000 by 2000. But the relentless population growth (Nepal’s population grew from 8.4 million in 1954 to 26 million in 2004) cancelled out many of these advances, turning Nepal from a food exporter to a net importer within a generation. It is also widely accepted that huge portions of foreign aid were creamed off into royal and ministerial accounts.
During this time over one million hill people moved to the Terai in search of land and several million crossed the border to seek work in India (Nepalis are able to cross the border and work freely in India), creating a major demographic shift in favour of the now malaria-free Terai.
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PEOPLE POWER
In 1989, as communist states across Europe crumbled and pro-democracy demonstrations occupied China’s Tiananmen Sq, Nepali opposition parties formed a coalition to fight for a multiparty democracy with the king as constitutional head; the upsurge of protest was called the Jana Andolan, or People’s Movement.
In early 1990 the government responded to a nonviolent gathering of over 200,000 people with bullets, tear gas and thousands of arrests. After several months of intermittent rioting, curfews, a successful strike, and pressure from various foreign-aid donors, the government was forced to back down. The people’s victory did not come cheaply; it is estimated that more than 300 people lost their lives.
Confusingly, three Koirala brothers have all served as prime ministers of Nepal; BP Koirala in 1959, MP Koirala in 1951 and 1953 and GP Koirala, four times, the latest in 2006.
On 9 April King Birendra announced he was lifting the ban on political parties and was ready to accept the role of constitutional monarch. Nepal was a democracy.
In May 1991, 20 parties contested a general election for a 205-seat parliament. The Nepali Congress won power, with the Communist Party of Nepal-Unified Marxist-Leninist (CPN-UML) the next largest party. In the years immediately following the election, the political atmosphere remained uneasy. In April 1992 a general strike degenerated into street violence between protesters and police, and resulted in a number of deaths.
In late 1994 the Nepali Congress government, led by GP Koirala (brother of BP Koirala), called a midterm election. No party won a clear mandate, and a coalition formed between the CPN-UML and the third major party, the Rastriya Prajatantra Party (RPP), the old panchayats, with the support of the Nepali Congress. This was one of the few times in the world that a communist government had come to power by popular vote.
Political stability did not last long, and the late 1990s were littered with dozens of broken coalitions, dissolved governments and sacked politicians. After a decade of democracy it seemed an increasing number of people, particularly young Nepalis and those living in the countryside, were utterly disillusioned.
For background on the Maoist rebellion read Himalayan People’s War: Nepal’s Maoist Rebellion, edited by Michael Hutt.
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THE PEOPLE’S WAR
In 1996 the Maoists, a communist party splinter group, fed up with government corruption, the failure of democracy to deliver improvements to the people, and the dissolution of the communist government, declared a ‘people’s war’. The Maoists presented the then prime minister with a 40-point charter of demands that ranged from preferential state policies towards backward communities to an assertive Nepali identity, an end to public schools and better governance.
The insurgency began in the Rolpa district of midwestern Nepal and gathered momentum, but was initially ignored by Kathmandu’s politicians. The repercussions of this nonchalance finally came to a head in November 2001 when the Maoists broke their ceasefire and an army barracks was attacked west of Kathmandu. The initial Maoist forces were armed with little more than ancient muskets and khukuris (Ghurkha knives) but they quickly obtained guns looted from police stations, homemade explosives and automatic weapons, all bankrolled by robbery and extortion and aided by an open border with India.
Initial police heavy-handedness fuelled a cycle of violence and retribution that only succeeded in alienating the local people. Political disenfranchisement, rural poverty, resentment against the caste system, issues of land reform and a lack of faith in the squabbling and self-interested politicians of distant Kathmandu swelled the ranks of the Maoists, who at their peak numbered 15,000 fighters, with a further militia of 50,000. Attacks spread to almost every one of Nepal’s 75 districts, including Kathmandu. At their peaks Maoists effectively controlled around 40% of the country, including two protected areas in the far west and several of Nepal’s main trekking routes (for years trekkers in the Annapurna region were forced to hand over ‘donations’ to Maoist gangs).
Even wildlife was affected by the civil war. Nepal’s population of rhinos dropped from 612 in 2000 to 379 in 2005, mostly due to increased poaching as park checkposts were destroyed and troops transferred away from national parks.
The political temperature rose after the king brought in the army and armed militias loyal to the government in 2001. The USA labelled Nepal’s Maoists a terrorist group and handed over millions of dollars to help fight Nepal’s own ‘war on terror’. Although self-declared Maoists, the group owed more to Peru’s Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) than to any Chinese connection.
The Maoist insurgency only worsened the plight of the rural poor by bombing bridges and telephone lines, halting road construction, diverting much-needed government funds away from development and causing aid programs to suspend activity due to security concerns. An entire generation of rural Nepali children missed out on their education in the decade-long conflict.
Forget Kathmandu: An Elegy for Democracy, by Manjushree Thapa, starts with Nepal’s royal massacre, moves to a political history of the last 200 years, then ends with a description of a trek through Maoist-held areas in 2003. Its insights into the recent political chaos attempt to answer the question: ‘What the hell happened to Nepal?’
Several Maoist truces, notably in 2003 and 2005, offered some respite, though these reflected as much a need to regroup and rearm as they did any move towards a lasting peace. By 2005 nearly 13,000 people, including many civilians, had been killed in the insurgency, more than half of them following the royal order to send in the army. Amnesty International accused both sides of horrific human-rights abuses, including summary executions, abductions, torture and child conscription. Dark days had come to Nepal.
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ROYAL TROUBLES & POLITICAL CHANGE
On 1 June 2001 the Nepali psyche was dealt a huge blow when Crown Prince Dipendra gunned down almost every member of the royal family during a get-together in Kathmandu (see the boxed text). A monarch who had steered the country through some extraordinarily difficult times was gone. When the shock of this loss subsided the uncertainty of what lay ahead hit home.
THE ROYAL MASSACRE – FOR THE LOVE OF A WOMAN?
The night of 1 June 2001 has entered the annals of history as one of Nepal’s greatest tragedies, a bloodbath that could have been lifted straight from the pages of a Shakespearean tragedy.
That night, in a hail of bullets, 10 members of Nepal’s royal family including King Birendra and Queen Aishwarya were gunned down during a gathering at the Narayanhiti Palace by a deranged, drunken Crown Prince Dipendra, who eventually turned a weapon on himself. Dipendra did not die straight away and, ironically, despite being in a coma, was pronounced the king of Nepal. His rule ended two days later, when he too was declared dead. The real motive behind the massacre will never be known, but many believe Dipendra’s murderous drug-fuelled rage was prompted by his parents’ disapproval of the woman he wanted to marry.
In the days that followed the massacre, a tide of emotions washed over the Nepali people – shock, grief, horror, disbelief and denial. A 13-day period of mourning was declared and in Kathmandu impromptu shrines were set up for people to pray for their king and queen. About 400 shaven-headed men roamed the streets around the palace on motorbikes, carrying pictures of the monarch. Half a million stunned Nepalis lined the streets during the funeral procession. All over the city, barbers were shaving the heads of other men, a mark of grief in Hindu tradition.
The initial disbelief and shock gave way to suspicion and a host of conspiracy theories, many concerning the new king, Gyanendra (who was in Pokhara at the time of the massacre), and his son Paras (who emerged unscathed from the attack). None of this was helped by an official enquiry that initially suggested the automatic weapon had been discharged by accident (killing nine people!), or the fact that the victims were quickly cremated without full post mortems and the palace building then razed to the ground. Other theories included that old chestnut – a CIA or Indian secret-service plot.
A surreal royal exorcism followed on the 11th day of mourning, as a high-caste priest, dressed in the gold suit, shoes and black-rimmed glasses of King Birendra and donning a paper crown, climbed onto an elephant and slowly lumbered out of the valley, taking with him the ghost of the dead king. The same scapegoat ritual (known as a katto ceremony) was performed for Dipendra, except that a pregnant woman dashed underneath his elephant en route, believing this would ensure she give birth to a boy. She was trampled by the elephant and died, adding a further twist to the tragedy.
Doubtless the truth of what really happened that night will never be known. In the words of Nepali journalist Manjushree Thapa: ‘We lost the truth; we lost our history. We are left to recount anecdotes and stories, to content ourselves with myth.’
The beginning of the 21st century saw the political situation in the country turn from bad to worse. Prime ministers were sacked and replaced in 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004 and 2005, making a total of nine governments in 10 years. The fragile position of Nepali politicians is well illustrated by Sher Bahadur Deuba, who was appointed prime minister for the second time in 2001, before being dismissed in 2002, reinstated in 2004, sacked again in 2005, thrown in jail on corruption charges and then released! Against such a background, modern politics in Nepal is generally perceived as having more to do with personal enrichment than any kind of public service.
Massacre at the Palace: The Doomed Royal Dynasty of Nepal, by Jonathan Gregson, takes a wider look at Nepal’s royal family and reveals that assassination and murder have been part of royal life for centuries; it also examines the recent massacre. Also published as Blood Against the Snows.
Nepal’s disappointing experiment with democracy faced a major setback in February 2005 when King Gyanendra dissolved the government, amid a state of emergency, promising a return to democracy within three years. Freedom of the press was curtailed and telephone lines were cut periodically to prevent mass demonstrations. The unpopular king was not helped by his son and heir, Prince Paras, who was allegedly involved in several drunken hit-and-run car accidents, one of which killed a popular Nepali singer. Tourism levels slumped as a mood of pessimism descended over the country.
Everything changed in April 2006, when days of mass demonstrations, curfews and the deaths of 16 protestors forced the king to restore parliamentary democracy. The following month the newly restored parliament voted to reduce the king to a figurehead, ending powers that the royal Shah lineage had enjoyed for over 200 years. The removal of the king was the price required to bring the Maoists to the negotiating table and a peace accord was signed later that year, drawing a close to the bloody decade-long insurgency.
The pace of political change in Nepal was remarkable. The Maoists achieved a majority in the elections of 10 April 2008 and a month later parliament abolished the monarchy by a margin of 560 votes to four, ending 240 years of royal rule. Former Maoist ‘terrorists’ became cabinet ministers, members of the People’s Liberation Army joined the national army and a new constitution was being written at the time of research, all as part of a process to bind the former guerrillas into the political mainstream. A renewed optimism in the political process was palpable throughout Nepal.
Following the 2008 abolition of the monarchy, the king’s face was removed from the Rs 10 note, the prefix ‘Royal’ disappeared from the name of the national airline as well as national parks, and the king’s birthday was dumped as a national holiday.
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THE HARD WORK BEGINS
By 2008 a new government was formed, with former guerrilla leaders Pushpa Kamal Dahal (known by his nom de guerre Prachanda, which means ‘the Fierce’) as prime minister and Dr Baburam Bhattarai as finance minister. Ironically the ‘People’s’ armed struggle was led by two high-caste intellectuals.
A key aim for the future has been to complete a new, more inclusive Nepali constitution. For decades government in Nepal was dominated by a narrow band of castes and ethnicities – Newars, Chhetris and Bahuns – with little regional representation. Ethnic minorities, lower castes and women’s groups have been clamouring for their voices to be heard in the new political environment.
There has still been plenty of potential for political instability. In 2009 Prime Minister Pushpa Kamal Dahal resigned due to infighting, leaving the leadership in tatters. Calls for greater representation by groups such as the Madhesi of the Terai (who make up 35% of the population and live in the most productive and industrialised part of country) have resulted in a familiar pattern of economic blockades and political violence, and are only the beginning of many more possible claims. Political violence has continued to simmer in the Terai. The wounds of the People’s War will take a long time to heal. Over 1000 Nepalis remain unaccounted for, victims of political ‘disappearance’ or simple murder and finding justice for these crimes may prove elusive.
Tourism generates around US$260 million each year in foreign earnings for Nepal and it is estimated that the money spent by each tourist supports 10 or 11 Nepalis.
Moreover, after 40 years and over US$4 billion in aid (60% of its development budget) Nepal has remained one of the world’s poorest countries, with seven million Nepalis lacking adequate food or basic health care and education. Nepal has one of the lowest health spending levels and the third-highest infant mortality rate in the world.
The majority of Nepalis have continued stoically with their rural lives but until the government delivers on real social change and economic development in the countryside, the frustrations that fuelled Nepal’s recent political violence will remain unresolved.
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TIMELINE
- 60 million BC The Himalaya rise as the Indo-Australian tectonic plate crashes into the Eurasian plate. The Tethys Sea is pushed up, resulting in sea shells atop Mt Everest and fossilised ammonites (saligrams) in the Kali Gandaki Valley.
- 100,000 BC Kathmandu Valley is formed as a former lake bed dries. Legend relates how the Buddhist Bodhisattva Manjushri created the valley by cutting the Chobar Gorge and draining the lake’s waters.
- c 563 BC Siddhartha Gautama, the Buddha, is born in Lumbini into royalty and lives as both prince and ascetic in Nepal before coming up with his Middle Way and gaining enlightenment under a Bodhi tree (pipal tree) in India.
- c 250 BC Mauryan Emperor Ashoka (r 268–231 BC) visits Lumbini, embraces Buddhism and builds four stupas on the outskirts of Patan. Much of India and Nepal adopts the new religion, ushering in a golden age for Buddhism.
- 57 BC Nepal’s official Vikram (Bikram) Samwat calendar starts, in spring. Thus to Nepalis the year 2010 is 2067.
- AD 464 Nepal’s earliest surviving inscription is carved into the beautiful Changu Narayan Temple in the Kathmandu Valley on the orders of King Manadeva.
- 629 The Chinese Buddhist pilgrim Xuan Zang (Hsuan Tsang) visits Lumbini and describes the Ashoka pillar marking the Buddha’s birthplace. His text helps archaeologists relocate and excavate the lost site in 1895.
- 879 Newari lunar calendar, the Nepal Samvat, is introduced as the national calendar and used officially until the late 18th century. It is still used for Newari festivals in the Kathmandu Valley.
- c 1260 Nepali architect Arniko travels to Lhasa and Kublai Khan’s capital Dadu (Beijing), bringing with him Nepal’s most profound export – the design of the pagoda – thus changing the face of religious temples across Asia.
- 13th to 15th centuries The Nepali-speaking Khasa empire of the western Mallas reaches its peak in the far western Karnali basin around Sinja, Dullu and Jumla. Its lasting contribution is Nepali – the national language spoken today.
- 1349 Muslim armies of Sultan Shams-ud-Din plunder the Kathmandu Valley, destroying the stupa at Swayambhunath and carrying off cartloads of booty.
- 1380 Ame Pal founds the kingdom of Lo (Mustang). The present king of Mustang, Jigme Palbar Bista, traces his family back 25 generations to this king. Mustang remains an independent kingdom until 1951.
- 1428–82 Rule of Yaksha Malla, the high point of Malla kings, ends in the fracture of the Kathmandu Valley into the three rival kingdoms of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur.
- 1531–34 Sherpas (literally ‘easterners’) settle in the Solu-Khumbu region near Mt Everest. The Nangpa La pass remains the most important Sherpa trade route with Tibet.
- 1641–74 Rule of Malla king Pratap Malla, a dancer, poet and great supporter of arts, who shapes the face of Kathmandu, building large parts of Hanuman Dhoka palace.
- 1729 The three kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley send presents to the Qing court in Beijing, which from then on views Nepal as a tributary state.
- 1750 King Jaya Prakash Malla builds Kathmandu’s Kumari Temple. Not long afterwards comes the Nyatapola Temple in Bhaktapur, the literal highpoint of stupa-style architecture in Nepal.
- 1768–69 Nepal unified under Prithvi Narayan Shah (1723–75), known as the father of the Nepali nation, to form the Shah dynasty. Kathmandu becomes the capital.
- 1790–92 Nepal invades Tibet and sacks Shigatse. Avenging Chinese troops advance down the Kyirong Valley as far as Nuwakot. As part of the ensuing treaty the Nepalis pay tribute to the Chinese emperor until 1912.
- 1814–16 Anglo-Nepali War ends in victory for Britain. The ensuing Treaty of Sugauli establishes Nepal’s modern boundaries and gives Britain the right to recruit Gurkha soldiers in Nepal and maintain a residency in Kathmandu.
- 1846 The Kot Massacre ends in the killing of the cream of the court aristocracy, ushering in the Rana era (1846–1951) and sidelining the Shah kings to puppet status.
- 1854 Legal code called the Muluki Ain formalises the pre-existing Nepali caste system, defining diet, legal and sexual codes and enshrining state discrimination against the lower castes. The law is revised only in 1963.
- 1856 Peak XV is declared the world’s highest peak. It is later renamed Everest after the head of Trigonometric Survey, George Everest (who actually pronounced his name eve-rest).
- 1911 King George V visits the Terai on a hunting trip as a guest of the maharajah of Nepal, bagging 39 tigers, 18 rhinos and four bears, travelling on elephant back and with a small army of beaters.
- 1934 A massive earthquake with its epicentre just south of Mt Everest destroys much of the Kathmandu Valley, killing over 8000 people in under a minute, injuring 16,000 and destroying a quarter of all homes in Nepal.
- 1951 King Tribhuvan and the Nepal Congress Party, with Indian support, overthrow the Rana regime and establish a new coalition government. Nepal opens its doors to the outside world, including mountaineers.
- 1953 Everest is summited for the first time by New Zealander Edmund Hillary and Tibetan Sherpa Tenzing Norgay on 29 May, just in time for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II.
- 1954 Boris Lissanevitch establishes Nepal’s first hotel, the Royal, in the Bahadur Bhawan palace. Its Yak and Yeti Bar becomes the expat hub for mountaineers and diplomats until its closure in 1971.
- 1955–72 Rule of King Mahendra sees the introduction of elections, which are then voided as the king seizes direct power, introducing the panchayat system of government.
- 1959 Nepal’s first general elections. The Dalai Lama flees Tibet and China closes the Tibet–Nepal border, seriously affecting trade of salt for grain and creating great social change in some northern regions of Nepal.
- 1960 Eradication of malaria opens the Terai to rapid population growth for the first time. Today the Terai contains up to half of Nepal’s population, as well as most of its industry and flat agricultural land.
- 1973 Army operation to dislodge bands of Tibetan Khampa fighters, who have been launching raids into Chinese-occupied Tibet from bases in Mustang. The Dalai Lama sends a message asking the rebels to disband.
- 1975 Birendra is crowned king in Kathmandu’s Hanuman Dhoka, three years after the death of his father Mahendra. At a time ordained by astrologers, the king wears the jewel-encrusted and feathered headdress of the Shah kings.
- 1990 The mass demonstrations of the People’s Movement force King Birendra to accept a new constitution, restoring democracy and relegating the king to the role of constitutional Hindu monarch under a multiparty democracy.
- 1996–2005 A decade-long Maoist insurgency brings the country to its knees and results in the death of 13,000 Nepalis. Development projects stall and tourism levels plummet.
- 11 May 1996 Eight climbers die on single day during a fierce storm on Mt Everest, making this the single-worst year for Everest fatalities. An IMAX film and Jon Krakauer’s book Into Thin Air chronicle the disaster.
- 2001 Prince Dipendra bursts into the Narayanhiti Palace and massacres 10 members of the royal family, including his father, King Birendra, before shooting himself. The king’s brother, Gyanendra, is crowned king of Nepal.
- 2006 After weeks of protests, King Gyanendra reinstates parliament, which votes to curtail his emergency powers. Maoists and government officials sign a peace agreement and the Maoist rebels enter an interim government.
- 2008 Nepal abolishes the monarchy and becomes a federal democratic republic, with former Maoist guerrilla leader Pushpa Kamal Dahal (‘Prachanda’) as the first prime minister. Prachanda resigns a year later.
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The Culture
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
TRADITIONAL LIFESTYLE
POPULATION
PEOPLE
MEDIA
RELIGION
WOMEN IN NEPAL
ARTS
THE NATIONAL PSYCHE
Nepal’s location between India and Tibet, the diversity of its 60 or more ethnic and caste groups, its isolating geography and myriad (up to 100) languages have resulted in a complex pattern of customs and beliefs that make it hard to generalise about a ‘Nepali people’.
If you are heading off on a trek (or flying on Nepal Airlines), bear in mind that according to Nepali superstition it’s bad luck to start a journey on Tuesday or return on a Saturday.
Perhaps the dominant Nepali cultural concepts are those of caste and status, both of which contribute to a strictly defined system of hierarchy and deference. Caste determines not only a person’s status, but also their career and marriage partner, how that person interacts with other Nepalis and how others react back. This system of hierarchy extends even to the family, where everyone has a clearly defined rank. The Nepali language has half a dozen words for ‘you’, each of which conveys varying shades of respect.
When it comes to their religious beliefs, Nepalis are admirably flexible, pragmatic and, above all, tolerant – there is almost no religious or ethnic tension in Nepal. Nepalis are generally good humoured and patient, quick to smile and slow to anger, though they also have a reputation as fierce fighters (witness the famous Gurkha forces; Click here).
The Nepali view of the world is dominated by prayer and ritual and a knowledge that the gods are not remote, abstract concepts but living, present beings, who can influence human affairs in very direct ways. Nepalis perceive the divine everywhere, from the greeting namaste, which literally means ‘I greet the divine inside of you’, to the spirits and gods present in trees, passes, sacred river confluences and mountain peaks.
Up to half a million Nepali men seek seasonal work in Indian cities; in 2007 they sent home US$760 million to one-third of Nepali families, making this Nepal’s largest single source of foreign currency.
The notions of karma and caste, when combined with a tangled bureaucracy and deep-rooted corruption, tend to create an endemic sense of fatalism in Nepal. Confronted with problems, many Nepalis will simply respond with a shrug of the shoulders and the phrase khe garne?, or ‘what is there to do?’, which Westerners often find frustrating, and oddly addictive.
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TRADITIONAL LIFESTYLE
The cornerstones of Nepali life are the demands (and rewards) of one’s family, ethnic group and caste. To break these time-honoured traditions is to risk being ostracised from family and community. While young Nepali people, especially in urban areas, are increasingly influenced by Western values and lifestyle, the vast majority of people live by traditional customs and principles. The biggest modernising influences are probably satellite TV, roads and tourism – in that order.
Nepal ranks 142 out of 177 countries, according to the 2008 UN Human Development Index, below India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Only three other Asian countries rank lower.
In most ethnic groups, joint and extended families live in the same house, even in Kathmandu. In some smaller villages extended clans make up the entire community. Traditional family life has been dislocated by the large number (over one million) of Nepali men forced to seek work away from home, whether in Kathmandu or the Terai, or abroad in India, Malaysia or the Gulf States.
Arranged marriages remain the norm in Nepali Hindu society and are generally between members of the same caste or ethnic group, although there are a growing number of ‘love marriages’. Child marriages have been illegal since 1963 and today the average age of marriage for girls is just under 19 years old. The family connections generated by a marriage are as much a social contract as a personal affair, and most families consult matchmakers and astrologers when making such an important decision.
MOVING TIGERS
Nepal’s national board game is bagh chal, which literally means ‘move the tigers’. The game is played on a lined board with 25 intersecting points. One player has four tigers, the other has 20 goats, and the aim is for the tiger player to ‘eat’ five goats by jumping over them before the goat player can encircle the tigers and prevent them moving. You can buy attractive brass bagh chal sets in Kathmandu and Patan where they are made.
Nepal’s other popular game is carom, which looks like finger snooker; players use discs which glide over a chalked-up board to pot other discs into the corner pockets.
To decide not to have children is almost unheard of and Nepali women will often pity you if you are childless. Having a son is particularly important, especially for Hindu families, as some religious rites (such as lighting the funeral pyre to ensure a peaceful passage into the next life) can only be performed by the eldest son. Girls are regarded by many groups as a financial burden whose honour needs to be protected until she is married off.
HIV/AIDS has become a major problem in Nepal. There are an estimated 75,000 Nepalis infected with the virus, 40% of whom are migrant workers. Over 30,000 intravenous drug users in Nepal are at risk of contracting the virus.
Children stay at school for up to 12 years; 70% of children will begin school but only 7% will reach their 10th school year, when they sit their School Leaving Certificate (SLC) board examination. Many villages only have a primary school, which means children either have to walk long distances each day or board in a bigger town to attend secondary school. The ratio of boys to girls at both primary and secondary schools is almost 2:1 in favour of boys.
Despite what you may see in Kathmandu and Pokhara, Nepal is overwhelmingly rural and poor. Farming is still the main occupation and debt is a factor in most people’s lives. Large areas of land are still owned by zamindars (absent landlords) and up to 50% of a landless farmer’s production will go to the landowner as rent. The UN estimates that 68% of Nepalis get by on less than US$2 per day.
Most rural Nepali families are remarkably self-sufficient in their food supply, raising all of it themselves and selling any excess in the nearest town, where they’ll stock up on things like sugar, soap, cigarettes, tea, salt, cloth and jewellery. Throughout Nepal this exchange of goods has created a dense network of trails trodden by everyone from traders and porters to mule caravans and trekking groups.
The website www.mountainvoices.org/nepal.asp has an interesting collection of interviews with Nepali mountain folk on a wide variety of topics.
Rice is grown up to altitudes of 2000m; corn, wheat and millet up to 2800m; then barley, buckwheat and potatoes up to 4000m. Fields of yellow-flowering mustard are planted for making cooking oil, and soya beans, lentils, chilli peppers and sesame are grown on the berms that divide plots.
The rhythms of village life are determined by the seasons and marked by festivals – New Year, harvest and religious festivals being most important. Dasain remains the biggest event of the calendar in the Middle Hills and a time when most Nepali families get together.
Older people are respected members of the community and are cared for by their children. Old age is a time for relaxation, prayer and meditation. The dead are generally cremated and the deceased’s sons will shave their heads and wear white for an entire year following the death.
For a guide to some cultural dos and don’ts when visiting Nepal, Click here.
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POPULATION
Nepal currently has a population of around 30 million (2008 estimate), a number that is increasing at the rapid rate of 2.1% annually. Over 2.5 million people live in the Kathmandu Valley and perhaps one million in Kathmandu. Four million Nepalis reside in India. Nepal remains overwhelmingly rural; 85% of people live in the countryside. Around half of Nepal’s population live in the flat fertile lands of the Terai, which also acts as the nation’s industrial base, and the population here is increasing rapidly.
There are around 130,000 refugees, some Tibetan, but most expelled from Bhutan, kept in camps in the far east of the country.
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PEOPLE
The human geography of Nepal is a remarkable cultural mosaic of peoples who have not so much assimilated as learned to coexist. The ethnic divisions are complex and numerous; you’ll have to do your homework to be able to differentiate between a Limbu, Lepcha, Lhopa or Lhomi – and that’s just the Ls! Kathmandu remains the best place to see a wide range of ethnic groups, including Rai, Newar, Sherpa, Tamang and Gurung.
People of Nepal, by Dor Bahadur Bista, describes the many diverse ethnic groupings found in the country and is written by the country’s foremost anthropologist.
Simplistically, Nepal is the meeting place of the Indo-Aryan people of India and the Mongoloid peoples of the Himalaya. There are three main cultural zones running east to west: the north including the high Himalaya; the Middle Hills; and the Terai. Each group has adapted its lifestyle and farming practices to its environment but, thanks largely to Nepal’s tortured topography, has retained its own traditions. Social taboos, especially among caste Hindus, have limited further assimilation between groups.
Nepal’s diverse ethnic groups speak somewhere between 24 and 100 different languages and dialects depending on how finely the distinctions are made. Nepali functions as the unifying language, though less than half of Nepal’s people speak Nepali as their first language.
Himalayan Zone
The hardy Tibetan peoples who inhabit the high Himalaya are known in Nepal as Bhotias (Bhotiyas), a slightly derogatory term among caste Hindus. Each group remains distinct but their languages are all Tibetan-based and, with a few exceptions, they are Tibetan Buddhists.
Changes in trading patterns and traditional culture among Nepal’s Himalayan people are examined in Himalayan Traders, by Von Fürer-Haimendorf.
The Bhotiyas’ names combine the region they came from with the suffix ‘pa’ and include the Sherpas (literally ‘easterners’) of the Everest region, the Dolpopas of the west and the Lopas, or Lobas (literally ‘southerners’), of the Mustang region.
The withering of trans-Himalayan trade routes and the difficulty of farming and herding at high altitude drives these people to lower elevations during winter, either to graze their animals or to trade in India and the Terai. Yak herding and the barley harvest remain the economic bedrocks of the high Himalaya.
THAKALIS
Originating along the Kali Gandaki Valley in central Nepal, the Thakalis have emerged as the entrepreneurs of Nepal. They once played an important part in the salt trade between the subcontinent and Tibet, and today they are active in many areas of commercial life. Originally Buddhist, many pragmatic Thakalis have now adopted Hinduism. Most Thakalis have small farms, but travellers will regularly meet them in their adopted roles as hoteliers and lodge owners, especially on the Annapurna Circuit.
TAMANGS
The Tamangs make up one of largest groups in the country. They live mainly in the hills north of Kathmandu and have a noticeably strong Tibetan influence, from their monasteries, known as ghyang, to the mani walls that mark the entrance to their villages.
According to some accounts, the Tamang’s ancestors were horse traders and cavalrymen from an invading Tibetan army who settled in Nepal. They are well known for their independence and suspicion of authority, probably caused by the fact that in the 19th century they were relegated to a low status and seriously exploited, with much of their land distributed to Bahuns and Chhetris. As bonded labourers they were dependent upon menial work such as portering. Many of the ‘Tibetan’ souvenirs, carpets and thangkas (religious paintings) you see in Kathmandu are made by Tamangs.
TIBETANS
About 12,000 of the 120,000 Tibetans in exile around the world live in Nepal. The heavy hand of the Chinese during the 1950s and the flight of the Dalai Lama in 1959 resulted in waves of refugees who settled mainly in Kathmandu or Pokhara.
High Religion, by Sherry B Ortner, is probably the best introduction to Sherpa history, culture, religion and traditional society, though it was written in 1989 and is a little dated. Also worth looking for is Sherpa of the Khumbu by Barbara Brower.
Although their numbers are small, Tibetans have a high profile, partly because of the important role they play in tourism. Many hotels and restaurants in Kathmandu are owned or operated by Tibetans. They are also responsible for the extraordinary success of the Tibetan carpet industry (see the boxed text).
Tibetans are devout Buddhists and their arrival in the valley has rejuvenated a number of important religious sites, most notably the stupas at Swayambhunath and Bodhnath. A number of large, new Buddhist monasteries have been constructed on the outskirts of Kathmandu in recent years.
SHERPAS
The Sherpas who live high in the mountains of eastern and central Nepal are probably the best-known Nepali ethnic group. These nomadic Tibetan herders moved to the Solu Khumbu region of Nepal 500 years ago from eastern Tibet, bringing with them their Tibetan Buddhist religion and building the beautiful gompas (monasteries) that dot the steep hillsides. They are strongly associated with the Khumbu region around Mt Everest, although only 3000 of the total 35,000 Sherpas actually live in the Khumbu; the rest live in the lower valleys of the Solu region.
Sherpas: Reflections on Change in Himalayan Nepal, by James F Fisher, offers an anthropological snapshot of how tourism and modernisation has affected Sherpa religious and cultural life. Fisher worked with Edmund Hillary in the Khumbu in the 1960s, bringing the first schools and airstrip to the region.
Tourism stepped in after the collapse of trade over the Nangpa La pass in 1959, following the Chinese invasion of Tibet, and these days the Sherpa name is synonymous with mountaineering and trekking. Potatoes were introduced to the region in the late 19th century and are now the main Sherpa crop. Sherpas are famously hard drinkers.
Midlands Zone
The Middle Hills of Nepal are the best places to witness village life at its most rustic. In the east are the Kirati, who are divided into the Rai and Limbu groups. The Newari people dominate the central hills around the Kathmandu Valley, while the Magars and Gurungs inhabit the hills of the Kali Gandaki northwest of Pokhara
Moving west, the Bahun and Chhetri are the dominant groups, although the lines between castes have become blurred over time.
RAIS & LIMBUS
The Rais and Limbus are thought to have ruled the Kathmandu Valley in the 7th century BC until they were defeated around AD 300. They then moved into the steep hill country of eastern Nepal, from the Arun Valley to the Sikkim border, where many remain today. Others have moved to the Terai or India as economic migrants. Many Rai work as porters in the Middle Hills.
Describing themselves as Kirati, these tribes are easily distinguishable by their Mongolian features. They are of Tibeto-Burmese descent and their traditional religion is distinct from Buddhism and Hinduism, although the latter is exerting a growing influence. Himalayan hunter-warriors, they are still excellent soldiers and are well represented in the Gurkha regiments.
NEPALI NAMES
You can tell a lot about a Nepali person from their name, including often their caste, profession, ethnic group and where they live. Gurung and Sherpa are ethnic groups as well as surnames. The surname Bista or Pant indicates that the person is a Brahman, originally from western Nepal; Devkota indicates an eastern origin. Thapa, Pande and Bhasnet are names related to the former Rana ruling family. Shrestha is a high-caste Newari name. The initials KC often stand for Khatri Chhetri, a mixed-caste name. The surname Kami is the Nepali equivalent of Smith.
Sherpa names even reveal which day of the week the person was born – Dawa (Monday), Mingmar (Tuesday), Lhakpa (Wednesday), Phurba (Thursday), Pasang (Friday), Pemba (Saturday) and Nyima (Sunday). Ironically the one thing you can’t tell from a Sherpa name is their sex – Lhakpa Sherpa could be a man or a woman!
Many of the men still carry a large khukuri (traditional curved knife) tucked into their belt and wear a topi (traditional Nepali cap). Some communities in upper Arun live in bamboo houses.
Despite associations in the West, Sherpas actually do very little portering, focusing mostly on high-altitude expedition work. Most of the porters you meet on the trails are Tamang, Rai or other groups.
NEWARS
The Newars of the Kathmandu Valley number about 1.1 million and make up 6% of the population. Their language, Newari, is distinct from Tibetan, Nepali or Hindi, and is one of the world’s most difficult languages to learn. The Newars are excellent farmers and merchants, as well as skilled artists, famed across Asia. The Kathmandu Valley is filled with spectacular examples of their artistic work and their aesthetic influence was felt as far away as Lo Manthang and Lhasa.
Their origins are shrouded in mystery: most Newars have Mongoloid and Caucasian physical characteristics. It’s generally accepted that their ancestors were migrants of varied ethnicity who settled in the Kathmandu Valley over centuries – possibly originating with the Kiratis, or an even earlier group.
Newars lead a communal way of life and have developed several unique customs, including the worship of the Kumari, a girl worshipped as a living god (Click here), and the annual chariot festivals that provide the high point of the valley’s cultural life. Living so close to the centre of power has also meant there are many Newars in the bureaucracies of Kathmandu.
Newari men wear surwal (trousers with a baggy seat that are tighter around the calves, like jodhpurs), a daura (thigh-length double-breasted shirt), a vest or coat and the traditional topi hat. Newari castes include the Sakyas (priests), Tamrakar (metal casters) and the Jyapu (farmers). Jyapu women wear a black sari with a red border, while the men often wear the traditional trousers and shirt with a long piece of cotton wrapped around the waist.
See the boxed text, for more on this group.
GURUNGS
The Gurungs, a Tibeto-Burmese people, live mainly in the central midlands, from Gorkha and Baglung up to Manang and the southern slopes of the Annapurnas, around Pokhara. One of the biggest Gurung settlements is Ghandruk, with its sweeping views of the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhare. The Gurungs have made up large numbers of the Gurkha regiments, and army incomes have contributed greatly to the economy of their region. For more on the Gurkha forces see the boxed text. Gurung women wear nose rings, known as phuli, and coral necklaces.
NEWARI RITES OF PASSAGE
Newari children undergo a number of samskaras (rites of passage) as they grow up, many of which are shared by other Nepali Hindus. The namakarana (naming rite) is performed by the priests and chief of the clan and the family astrologer gives the child its public and secret name. The next rite is the machajanko or pasni (rice feeding), which celebrates the child’s presence on earth and wishes them a smooth life. Next for boys comes the busakha, performed between the ages of three and seven, when the head is shaved, leaving just a small tuft known as a tupi. This is followed by the fixing of a kaitapuja (loincloth), which marks a commitment by the boy to bachelorhood and self-control. Girls undergo Ihi (a symbolic marriage to Vishnu) between the ages of five and 11 and at this time they begin to wear a thick cotton thread. The Ihi samskara venerates chastity and guarantees the girl a choice of husband. This is followed by a barha (menarche rite), which protects the girl’s virginity and safeguards against passion.
Weddings are usually negotiated through a lami (mediator) and take place at times deemed auspicious by the family astrologer. The bride is taken in a noisy procession to the groom’s house where she is received with an oil lamp and key to the house. The chipka thiyeke samskara involves the serving of 84 (!) traditional dishes and is a symbol of the couple’s union.
The first janko (old-age samskara) takes place at 77 years, seven months and seven days, the second at 83 years, four months and four days and the third at 99 years, nine months and nine days. The final samskara is sithan (cremation), which marks the body’s move to its final destination.
The Gurungs (who call themselves Tamu, or highlanders) originally migrated from western Tibet, bringing with them their animist Bön faith. One distinctive aspect of village life is the rodi, a cross between a town hall and a youth centre, where teenagers hang out and cooperative village tasks are planned.
MAGARS
The Magars, a large group (around 8% of the total population), are a Tibeto-Burmese people who live in many parts of the midlands zone of western and central Nepal. With such a large physical spread there are considerable regional variations.
The Magars are also excellent soldiers and fought with Prithvi Narayan Shah to help unify Nepal. Their kingdom of Palpa (based at Tansen) was one of the last to be incorporated into the unified Nepal. They make up the biggest numbers of Gurkhas, and army salaries have greatly improved their living standards.
The Magars generally live in two-storey, rectangular or square thatched houses washed in red clay. They have been heavily influenced by Hinduism, and in terms of religion, farming practices, housing and dress, they are hard to distinguish from Chhetris.
BAHUNS & CHHETRIS
The Hindu caste groups of Bahuns and Chhetris are dominant in the Middle Hills, making up 30% of the country’s population.
Even though the caste system was formally abolished in 1963 these two groups remain the top cats of the caste hierarchy. Although there is no formal relationship in Hinduism between caste and ethnicity, Nepal’s Bahuns and Chhetris (Brahmin priests and Kshatriya warriors respectively) are considered ethnic groups as well as the two highest castes.
Bahuns and Chhetris played an important role in the court and armies of Prithvi Narayan Shah and after unification they were rewarded with tracts of land. Their language, Khas Kura, then became the national language of Nepal and their high-caste position was religiously, culturally and legally enforced. Ever since, Bahuns and Chhetris have dominated the government in Kathmandu, making up over 80% of the civil service.
A number of Bahuns and Chhetris had roles as tax collectors under the Shah and Rana regimes and to this day many are moneylenders with a great deal of power. Outside the Kathmandu Valley, the majority of these groups are simple peasant farmers, indistinguishable in most respects from their neighbours.
The Bahuns tend to be more caste-conscious and orthodox than other Nepali Hindus, which sometimes leads to difficulties in relationships with ‘untouchable’ Westerners. Many are vegetarians and do not drink alcohol; marriages are arranged within the caste.
Bahun and Chhetri men can be recognised by their sacred thread – the janai, worn over the right shoulder and under the right arm – which is changed once a year during the Janai Purnima festival (Click here).
Terai Zone
Until the eradication of malaria in the 1950s, the only people to live in the valleys of the inner Terai and along much of the length of the Terai proper were Tharus and a few small associated groups, who enjoyed a natural immunity to the disease. After the Terai opened for development, large numbers of people from the midlands settled – every group is represented and around 50% of Nepali people live in the region.
A number of large groups straddle the India–Nepal border. In the eastern Terai, Mithila people dominate; in the central Terai, there are many Bhojpuri-speaking people; and in the western Terai, Abadhi-speaking people are significant. All are basically cultures of the Gangetic plain and Hindu caste structure is strictly upheld.
THARUS
One of the most visible groups is the Tharus, who are thought to be the earliest inhabitants of the Terai. About one million Tharu speakers inhabit the length of the Terai, including the inner Terai around Chitwan, although they mainly live in the west. Caste-like distinctions exist between different Tharu groups or tribes. Most have Mongoloid physical features.
According to the most recent (2001) census, Nepal’s population is made up of the following groups: Chhetri 15.5%, Brahman-Hill 12.5%, Magar 7%, Tharu 6.6%, Tamang 5.5%, Newar 5.4%, Muslim 4.2%, Kami 3.9%, Yadav 3.9%, other 32.7%, unspecified 2.8%.
Nobody is sure where they came from although some believe they are the descendants of the Rajputs (from Rajasthan), who sent their women and children away to escape Mughal invaders in the 16th century. Others believe they are descended from the royal Sakya clan, the Buddha’s family, although they are not Buddhist. Tharu clans have traditionally lived in thatched huts with wattle walls or in traditional long houses. Their beliefs are largely animistic, involving the worship of forest spirits and ancestral deities, but they are increasingly influenced by Hinduism.
More recently, many Tharus were exploited by zamindars, fell into debt and entered into bonded labour. In 2000 the kamaiyas (bonded labourers) were freed by government legislation, but little has been done to help these now landless and workless people. Consequently, in most Terai towns in western Nepal you will see squatter settlements of former kamaiyas.
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MEDIA
The introduction of private FM radio stations after the multiparty democratic system began in 1990 revolutionised the Nepali media, breaking the monopoly enjoyed by Radio Nepal since the 1950s. There are three private TV stations, including Kantipur TV and Channel Nepal.
Freedom of the press was one of many victims during the People’s War, particularly when King Gyanendra seized power in 2005. The palace banned FM stations from presenting news stories or criticising the king, a move that led to 1000 journalists losing their jobs. Between 2002 and 2005 more journalists were arrested in Nepal than in any other country and in 2005 Reporters Sans Frontiers described Nepal’s media as the world’s most censored. Things have improved somewhat since then but journalists still face violence and intimidation in the Terai region.
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RELIGION
From the simple early morning puja (worship; see the boxed text, opposite) of a Kathmandu housewife at a local Hindu temple to the chanting of Buddhist monks in a village monastery, religion is a cornerstone of Nepali life. In Nepal, Hinduism and Buddhism have mingled wonderfully into a complex, syncretic blend. Nowhere is this more evident than in Kathmandu where Tibetan Buddhists and Nepali Hindus often worship at the same temples.
The Buddha was born in Nepal over 25 centuries ago but the Buddhist religion first arrived in the country later, around 250 BC. It is said to have been introduced by the great Indian-Buddhist emperor Ashoka. Buddhism eventually lost ground to Hinduism, although the Tantric form of Tibetan Buddhism made its way full circle back into Nepal in the 8th century AD. Today Buddhism is practised mainly by the people of the high Himalaya, such as the Sherpas and Tamangs, and by Tibetan refugees.
Take the concepts of Hinduism and Buddhism, add some Indian and Tibetan influence and blend this with elements of animism, faith healing and a pinch of Tantric practice and you get a taste of Nepal’s fabulous spiritual stew. Thanks to this tendency towards assimilation and synthesis there is little religious tension in Nepal and religion has long played little part in politics.
This situation has changed somewhat in recent years with the election of Maoists into the government and the abolition of the monarchy, with its strong ties to Nepal’s rich Hindu tradition. The president of Nepal has replaced the king at all religious events and festivals and the Maoists are keen to remove any institution that retains a royal connection, including the centuries-old link between the king and the Kumari, or living goddess; Click here.
It is joked that Nepal has three religions – Hinduism, Buddhism and Tourism.
Hinduism
Hinduism is a polytheistic religion that has its origins in the Aryan tribes of central India about 3500 years ago.
Hindus believe in a cycle of life, death and rebirth with the aim being to achieve moksha (release) from this cycle. With each rebirth you can move closer to or further from eventual moksha; the deciding factor is karma, which is literally a law of cause and effect. Bad actions during your life result in bad karma, which ends in a lower reincarnation. Conversely, if your deeds and actions have been good you will reincarnate on a higher level and be a step closer to eventual freedom from rebirth. Buddhism later adapted this concept into one of its core principles.
SADHUS
Sadhus are Hindu ascetics who have left their homes, jobs and families and embarked upon a spiritual search. They’re an easily recognised group, usually wandering around half-naked, smeared in dust with their hair matted, and carrying nothing except a trisul (trident) and a begging bowl.
Sadhus wander all over the subcontinent, occasionally coming together in great religious gatherings such as the Maha Shivaratri festival Click here at Pashupatinath in Kathmandu and the Janai Purnima festival Click here at the sacred Hindu lakes of Gosainkund. You may also see sadhus wandering around Thamel and posing for photos in Kathmandu’s Durbar Sq.
A few sadhus are simply beggars using a more sophisticated approach to gathering donations, but most are genuine in their search. Remember that if you take a picture of a sadhu, or accept a tika blessing from him, you will be expected to pay some baksheesh (tip), so negotiate your photo fee in advance to avoid any unpleasantness.
PUJA & SACRIFICE
Every morning Hindu women all over Nepal can be seen walking through the streets carrying a plate, usually copper, filled with an assortment of goodies. These women are not delivering breakfast but are taking part in an important daily ritual called puja. The plate might contain flower petals, rice, yoghurt, fruit or sweets, and it is an offering to the gods made at the local temple. Each of the items is sprinkled onto a temple deity in a set order and a bell is rung to let the gods know an offering is being made. Once an offering is made it is transformed into a sacred object and a small portion (referred to as prasad) is returned to the giver as a blessing from the deity. Upon returning home from her morning trip, the woman will give a small portion of the blessed offerings to each member of the household.
Marigolds and sweets don’t cut it with Nepal’s more terrifying gods, notably Kali and Bhairab, who require a little extra appeasement in the form of bloody animal sacrifices. You can witness the gory executions, from chickens to water buffalo, at Dakshinkali in the Kathmandu Valley, Manakamana Temple and the Kalika Temple at Gorkha, or during the annual Dasain festival, when these temples are literally awash with blood offerings.
Hinduism has a number of holy books, the most important being the four Vedas, the ‘divine knowledge’ that is the foundation of Hindu philosophy. The Upanishads are contained within the Vedas and delve into the metaphysical nature of the universe and soul. The Mahabharata is an epic 220,000-line poem that contains the story of Rama. The famous Hindu epic, the Ramayana, is based on this.
The Hindu religion has three basic practices. These are puja (worship; see the boxed text, above), the cremation of the dead, and the rules and regulations of the caste system.
‘The best way to look upon the dozens of different Hindu gods is simply as pictorial representations of the many attributes of the divine.’
There are four main castes: the Brahmin (of the Brahman ethnic group), or priest caste; the Kshatriya (Chhetri in Nepali), or soldiers and governors; the Vaisyas, or tradespeople and farmers; and the Sudras, or menial workers and craftspeople. These castes are then subdivided, although this is not taken to the same extreme in Nepal as it is in India. Beneath all the castes are the Harijans, or untouchables, the lowest, casteless class for whom the most menial and degrading tasks are reserved.
Despite common misconceptions, it is possible to become a Hindu, although Hinduism itself is not a proselytising religion. Once you are a Hindu you cannot change your caste – you’re born into it and are stuck with your lot in life for the rest of that lifetime.
HINDU GODS
Westerners often have trouble getting to grips with Hinduism principally because of its vast pantheon of gods. The best way to look upon the dozens of different Hindu gods is simply as pictorial representations of the many attributes of the divine. The one omnipresent god usually has three physical representations: Shiva the destroyer and reproducer, Vishnu the preserver and Brahma the creator.
Most temples are dedicated to one of these gods, but most Hindus profess to be either Vaishnavites (followers of Vishnu) or Shaivites (followers of Shiva). A variety of lesser gods and goddesses also crowd the scene. The cow is, of course, the holy animal of Hinduism, and killing a cow in Nepal brings a jail term.
INCARNATIONS, MANIFESTATIONS, ASPECTS & VEHICLES
There’s a subtle difference between these four concepts. Vishnu has incarnations – 10 of them in all. They include Narsingha the man-lion, Krishna the cowherd and the Buddha. Shiva, on the other hand, may be the god of 1000 names, but these are manifestations – what he shows himself as – not incarnations. When you start to look at the Buddhist ‘gods’ their various appearances are aspects rather than incarnations or manifestations.
Each god also has an associated animal known as the vahana (vehicle) on which they ride, as well as a consort with certain attributes and abilities. You can normally pick out which god is represented by identifying either the vehicle or the symbols held in the god’s hand.
The oldest deities are the elemental Indo-European Vedic gods, such as Indra (the god of war, storms and rain), Suriya (the sun), Chandra (the moon) and Agni (fire). Added to this is a range of ancient local mountain spirits, which Hinduism quickly co-opted. The Annapurna and the Ganesh Himal massifs are named after Hindu deities, and Gauri Shankar and Mt Kailash in Tibet are said to be the residences of Shiva and Parvati (Shiva’s shakti, or female energy).
The definitions that follow include the most interesting and frequently encountered ‘big names’, plus associated consorts, vehicles and religious terminology.
Shiva
As reproducer and destroyer, Shiva is probably the most important god in Nepal – so it’s important to keep on his good side! Shiva is often represented by the phallic lingam, symbolic of his creative role. His vehicle is the bull Nandi, which you’ll often see outside Shiva temples. The symbol most often seen in Shiva’s hand is the trident.
Shiva is also known as Nataraja, whose dance shook the cosmos and created the world. Shiva’s home is Mt Kailash in the Himalaya and he’s supposed to be keen on smoking hashish.
In the Kathmandu Valley Shiva is most popularly worshipped as Pashupati, the lord of the beasts. As the keeper of all living things, Pashupati is Shiva in a good mood. The temple of Pashupatinath outside Kathmandu is the most important Hindu temple in the country.
Shiva appears as bushy-eyebrowed Bhairab when he is in his fearful or ‘terrific’ manifestation. Bhairab can appear in 64 different ways, but none of them is pretty. Typical of Tantric deities, he has multiple arms, each clutching a weapon; he dances on a corpse and wears a headdress of skulls and earrings of snakes. More skulls dangle from his belt, and his staring eyes and bared fangs complete the picture. Usually Bhairab is black, carries a cup made from a human skull and is attended by a dog. The gruesome figure near the Hanuman Dhoka palace entrance in Kathmandu is a good example of this fearsome god at his worst. Bhairab’s female counterparts are the Joginis, wrathful goddesses whose shrines can be found near Sankhu in the eastern end of the Kathmandu Valley, at Guhyeshwari near Pashupatinath and at Pharping.
Outside of the Kathmandu Valley, Shiva is most commonly worshipped as Mahadeva (Great God), the supreme deity.
Vishnu
Vishnu is the preserver in Hindu belief, although in Nepal (where he often appears as Narayan) he also is seen to have played a role in the creation of the universe. Narayan is the reclining Vishnu, sleeping on the cosmic ocean, and from his navel appears Brahma, who creates the universe. The kings of Nepal long enjoyed added legitimacy because they were considered an incarnation of Vishnu.
Vishnu has four arms and can often be identified by the symbols he holds: the conch shell or sankha, the disclike weapon known as a chakra, the sticklike weapon known as a gada, and a lotus flower or padma. Vishnu’s vehicle is the faithful man-bird Garuda; a winged Garuda will often be seen kneeling reverently in front of a Vishnu temple. Garuda has an intense hatred of snakes and is often seen destroying them. Vishnu’s shakti is Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, whose vehicle is a tortoise.
The Kathmandu Valley has the world’s densest collection of Unesco World Heritage sites.
Vishnu has 10 incarnations, starting with Matsya, the fish. Then he appeared as Kurma, the tortoise on which the universe was built. Number three is his boar incarnation as Varaha, who bravely destroyed a demon who would have drowned the world. Vishnu was again in a demon-destroying mood in incarnation four as Narsingha (or Narsimha), a half-man and half-lion (Click here for an explanation of the legend behind this incarnation).
Vishnu’s next incarnation was Vamana (or Vikrantha), the dwarf who reclaimed the world from the demon-king Bali. The dwarf politely asked the demon for a patch of ground upon which to meditate, saying that the patch need only be big enough that he, the dwarf, could walk across it in three paces. The demon agreed, only to see the dwarf swell into a giant who strode across the universe in three gigantic steps. In his sixth incarnation Vishnu appeared as Parasurama, a warlike Brahmin who proceeded to put the warrior-caste Chhetris in their place.
Incarnation seven was Rama, the hero of the Ramayana who, with help from Hanuman the monkey god, rescued his beautiful wife Sita from the clutches of Rawana, evil king of Lanka. Sita is believed to have been born in Janakpur and this is also where she and Rama married (a temple marks the site of the marriage; Click here). Incarnation eight was the gentle and much-loved Krishna, the fun-loving cowherd, who dallied with the gopis (milkmaids), danced, played his flute and still managed to remain devoted to his wife Radha.
For number nine Vishnu appeared as the teacher, the Buddha. Of course, Buddhists don’t accept that the Buddha was just an incarnation of another religion’s god. Incarnation 10? Well, we haven’t seen that one yet, but it will be as Kalki the destroyer, when Vishnu wields the sword that will destroy the world at the end of the Kaliyuga, the age we are currently in.
Brahma
Despite his supreme position, Brahma appears much less often than Shiva or Vishnu. Like those gods, Brahma has four arms, but he also has four heads, to represent his all-seeing presence. The four Vedas (ancient orthodox Hindu scriptures) are supposed to have emanated from his mouths.
TIKA
A visit to Nepal is not complete without being offered a tika by one of the country’s many sadhus (Hindu holy men; Click here) or Hindu priests. The ubiquitous tika is a symbol of blessing from the gods and is worn by both women and men. It can range from a small dot to a full-on mixture of yoghurt, rice and sindur (a red powder) smeared on the forehead. The tika represents the all-seeing, all-knowing third eye, as well as being an important energy point, and receiving this blessing is a common part of most Hindu ceremonies. It is an acknowledgment of a divine presence at the occasion and a sign of protection for those receiving it. Shops these days carry a huge range of tiny plastic tikas, known as bindi, that women have turned into an iconic fashion statement.
Parvati
Shiva’s shakti is Parvati the beautiful and she is the dynamic element in their relationship. Just as Shiva is also known as Mahadeva, the Great God, she is Mahadevi (or just Devi), the Great Goddess. Shiva is often symbolised by the phallic lingam, so his shakti’s symbol is the yoni, representing the female sex organ. Their relationship is a sexual one and it is often Parvati who is the energetic and dominant partner.
Shiva’s shakti has as many forms as Shiva himself. She may be peaceful Parvati, Uma or Gauri, but she may also be fearsome Kali, the black goddess, or Durga, the terrible. In these terrific forms she holds a variety of weapons in her hands, struggles with demons and rides a lion or tiger. As skeletal Kali, she demands blood sacrifices and wears a garland of skulls.
Actress Uma Thurman is named after the beautiful Hindu goddess Uma, a manifestation of Parvati. Uma forms half of the Uma-Maheshwar image, a common representation of Shiva and Parvati.
Ganesh
With his elephant head, Ganesh is probably the most easily recognised and popular of the gods. He is the god of prosperity and wisdom and there are thousands of Ganesh shrines and temples across Nepal. His parents are Shiva and Parvati and he has his father’s temper to thank for this elephant head. After a long trip, Shiva discovered Parvati in bed with a young man. Not pausing to think that their son might have grown up a little during his absence, Shiva lopped his head off! Parvati then forced Shiva to bring his son back to life, but he could only do so by giving him the head of the first living thing he saw – which happened to be an elephant.
Chubby Ganesh has a super sweet tooth and is often depicted with his trunk in a mound of sweets and with one broken tusk; one story tells how he broke it off and threw it at the moon for making fun of his weight, another tale states that Ganesh used the tusk to write the India epic, the Mahabharata.
Hanuman
The monkey god Hanuman is an important character from the Ramayana who came to the aid of Rama to help defeat the evil Rawana and release Sita from his grasp. Hanuman’s trustworthy and alert nature is commemorated by the many statues of the god guarding palace entrances, most famously the Hanuman Dhoka.
Hanuman also has an important medicinal connection in Nepal and other Hindu countries. The Ramayana recounts a legend of how Rama desperately needed a rare herb that was grown only in the Himalaya region and sent Hanuman to procure it for him. Unfortunately, by the time he finally arrived in the mountains, Hanuman had forgotten which particular herb he had to bring back to Rama, but he got around the problem by simply grabbing a whole mountain, confident the plant would be somewhere on it.
Machhendranath
A strictly Nepali Hindu god, Machhendranath (also known as Bunga Dyo) has power over the rains and the monsoon and is regarded as protector of the Kathmandu Valley. It is typical of the intermingling of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs in Nepal that, in the Kathmandu Valley at least, Machhendranath has come to be thought of as an incarnation of Avalokiteshvara, the Buddhist’s Bodhisattva of Compassion.
There are two forms of Machhendranath based on colour and features: Seto (White) Machhendranath of Kathmandu and Rato (Red) Machhendranath of Patan. Some scholars say that they are the same god, others say they are distinct. Both deities feature in the Kathmandu Valley’s spectacular chariot festivals – for Kathmandu’s festival Click here and for Patan’s Click here.
Tara
The goddess Tara is another deity who appears in both the Hindu and Buddhist pantheons. There are 108 different Taras but the best known are Green Tara and White Tara. Tara is generally depicted sitting with her right leg hanging down and her left hand in a mudra (hand gesture).
Saraswati
The goddess of learning and consort of Brahma, Saraswati rides upon a white swan and holds the stringed musical instrument known as a veena.
Buddhism
Strictly speaking, Buddhism is not a religion, as it is centred not on a god but on a system of philosophy and a code of morality. Buddhism was founded in northern India in about 500 BC when prince Siddhartha Gautama achieved enlightenment. According to some, Gautama Buddha was not the first Buddha but the fourth and he is not expected to be the last ‘enlightened one’.
The pipal tree, under which the Buddha gained enlightenment, is also known by its Latin name, ficus religious.
The Buddha never wrote down his dharma (teachings) and a schism that developed later means that today there are two major Buddhist schools. The Theravada (Doctrine of the Elders), or Hinayana, holds that the path to nirvana is an individual pursuit. In contrast, the Mahayana school holds that the combined belief of its followers will eventually be great enough to encompass all of humanity and bear it to salvation. To some, the less austere and ascetic Mahayana school is considered a ‘soft option’. Today it is practised mainly in Vietnam, Japan and China, while the Hinayana school is followed in Sri Lanka, Myanmar (Burma) and Thailand. There are still other, sometimes more esoteric, divisions of Buddhism, including the Tantric Buddhism of Tibet, which is the version found in Nepal.
The Buddha renounced material life to search for enlightenment but unlike other prophets found that starvation did not lead to discovery. He developed his rule of the Middle Way (moderation in all things). The Buddha taught that all life is suffering, and that suffering comes from our desires and the illusion of their importance. By following the ‘eightfold path’ these desires will be extinguished and a state of nirvana, where we are free from their delusions, will be reached. Following this process requires going through a series of rebirths until the goal is reached and no more rebirths into the world of suffering are necessary. The path that takes you through this cycle of births is karma, but this is not simply fate. Karma is a law of cause and effect; your actions in one life determine what you will have to go through in your next life.
The first images of the Buddha date from the 5th century AD, 1000 years after his death (stupas were the symbol of Buddhism previous to this). The Buddha didn’t want idols made of himself but a pantheon of Buddhist gods grew up regardless, with strong iconographical influence from Hinduism. As in Hinduism, the many Buddhist deities reflect various aspects of the divine, here called ‘Buddha-nature’. Multiple heads convey multiple personalities, mudras convey coded messages, and everything from eyebrows to stances indicate the nature of the god.
There are many different types of Buddha images, though the most common are those of the past (Dipamkara), present (Sakyamuni) and future (Maitreya) Buddhas. The Buddha is recognised by 32 physical marks, including a bump on the top of his head, his third eye and the images of the Wheel of Law on the soles of his feet. In his left hand he holds a begging bowl and his right hand touches the earth in the witness mudra. He is often flanked by his two disciples.
A BUBBLE IN A STREAM
The core Buddhist vision of impermanence is summed up perfectly in these lines from the Diamond Sutra:
Thus shall you think of all this fleeting world,
A star at dawn, a bubble in a stream,
A flash of lightning in a summer cloud,
A flickering lamp, a phantom, and a dream
Bodhisattvas are beings who have achieved enlightenment but decide to help everyone else gain enlightenment before entering nirvana. The Bodhisattva Manjushri has strong connections to the Kathmandu Valley. The Dalai Lama is considered a reincarnation of Avalokiteshvara (Chenresig in Tibetan), the Bodhisattva of Compassion.
Tibetan Buddhism also has a host of fierce protector gods, called dharmapalas.
‘Nepal’s Hindu and Muslim communities coexist peacefully.’
TIBETAN BUDDHISM
There are four major schools of Tibetan (Vajrayana) Buddhism, all represented in the Kathmandu Valley: Nyingmapa, Kargyupa, Sakyapa and Gelugpa. The Nyingmapa order is the oldest and most dominant in the Nepal Himalaya. It origins come from the Indian sage Padmasambhava (or Guru Rinpoche), who is credited with the establishment of Buddhism in Tibet in the 8th century. (He is a common image in Nyingmapa monasteries and is recognisable by his katvanga staff of human heads and his fabulously curly moustache.)
The Dalai Lama is the head of the Gelugpa school and the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhists.
In some texts the Gelugpa are known as the Yellow Hats, while the other schools are sometimes collectively identified as the Red Hats. Nepal has small pockets of Bön, Tibet’s pre-Buddhist animist faith, now largely considered a fifth school of Tibetan Buddhism.
Islam
Nepal’s small population of Muslims (about 4% of the total population) are mainly found close to the border with India, with a large population in Nepalganj.
The first Muslims, who were mostly Kashmiri traders, arrived in the Kathmandu Valley in the 15th century. A second group arrived in the 17th century from northern India and they primarily manufactured armaments for the small hill states.
The largest Muslim group are the Terai Muslims, many of whom still have strong ties with the Muslim communities in the Indian states of Bihar and Uttar Pradesh. Religious tension is a major problem in India, but Nepal’s Hindu and Muslim communities coexist peacefully.
Shamanism
Shamanism in practised by many mountain peoples throughout the Himalaya and dates back some 50,000 years. Its ancient healing trad-itions are based on a cosmology that divides the world into three main levels: the Upper World where the sun, moon, stars, planets, deities and spirits important to the shaman’s healing work abide; the Middle World of human life; and the Lower World, where powerful deities and spirits exist.
Faith healers protect against a wide range of spirits, including headless mulkattas, who have eyes in their chest and signify imminent death; the pret, ghosts of the recently deceased that loiter in crossroads; and kichikinni, the ghost of a beautiful and sexually insatiable siren who is recognisable by her sagging breasts and the fact that her feet are on backwards.
Traditional prejudice against daughters is reflected in the bitter Nepali proverb: ‘Raising a girl is like watering your neighbour’s garden.’
During ceremonies the shaman or faith healer (jhankri) uses techniques of drumming, divination, trances and sacrifices to invoke deities and spirits, which he or she wishes to assist in the ritual. The shaman essentially acts as a broker between the human and spirit worlds.
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WOMEN IN NEPAL
Women have a hard time of it in Nepal. Female mortality rates are higher than men’s, literacy rates are lower and women generally work harder and longer than men, for less reward. Women only truly gain status in traditional society when they bear their husband a son. Bearing children is so important that a man can legally take a second wife if the first has not had a child after ten years.
The lives and roles of Nepali women are examined in the insightful The Violet Shyness of their Eyes: Notes from Nepal, by Barbara J Scot, and Nepali Aama, by Broughton Coburn, which details the life of a remarkable Gurung woman.
Nepal has a strongly patriarchal society, though this is less the case among Himalayan communities such as the Sherpa, where women often run the show (and the lodge). Boys are strongly favoured over girls, who are often the last to eat and the first to be pulled from school during financial difficulties. Nepal has a national literacy rate of 49%, with the rate among women at 35%.
The traditional practice of sati, where a woman was expected to throw herself on her husband’s funeral pyre, was outlawed in the 1920s. Nepal legalised abortion in 2002. In 2005 landmark rulings gave women under the age of 35 the right for the first time to apply for a passport without their husband’s or parent’s permission, and safeguarded their right to inherited property. The rural custom of exiling women to cowsheds for four days during their period was made illegal in 2005.
On the death of her husband, a widow is often expected to marry the brother of the deceased and property is turned over to her sons, on whom she is then financially dependant. In the far western hills the traditional system of polyandry (one woman married to two brothers) emerged over centuries in response to limited amounts of land and the annual trading trips that required husbands to leave their families for months at a time. The practice kept population levels down and stopped family land being broken up between brothers. All children born into the family are considered the elder brother’s. In recent years the system has started to break down.
HUMAN TRAFFICKING IN NEPAL
Trafficking of girls is a major problem in Nepal’s most impoverished rural areas. Some 10,000 to 15,000 girls are tricked or sold every year into servitude, either as domestic, factory or sex workers. Brokers called dalals sell Nepali girls for around US$2500 into the brothels of Mumbai. It is believed that over 100,000 Nepali women work in Indian brothels, often in conditions resembling slavery, and around half of these women are thought to be HIV positive. When obvious AIDS symptoms force these women out of work, some manage to return to Nepal. However, they are shunned by their families and there is virtually no assistance available for them or their children.
Particularly common in the Tharu areas of Dang and Bardia is the tradition of selling young daughters, aged seven to 10, to work as kamlaris, or indentured slaves, in the families of wealthy high-caste households. One organisation, the Nepalese Youth Opportunity Programme (www.nyof.org), has come up with an ingenious way of persuading families to hold on to their daughters: they give them a piglet and kerosene stocks for every girl they keep at home. The organisation also pays the US$100-a-year costs to send a child to school. So far the organisation has steered 2500 girls away from slavery.
Before you start to visit the Kathmandu Valley’s many temples, get a great overview on Buddhist and Nepali art at the Patan Museum and at Kathmandu’s National Museum, both of which explain the concepts behind Buddhist and Hindu art and iconography in an insightful and accessible way.
The annual festival of Teej is the biggest festival for women, though ironically this honours their husbands. The activities include feasting, fasting, ritual bathing (in the red and gold saris they were married in) and ritual offerings.
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ARTS
Wander around the towns of the Kathmandu Valley and you’ll come across priceless woodcarvings and sculptures at every turn, in surprisingly accessible places. Nepal’s artistic masterpieces are not hidden away in dusty museums but are part of a living culture, to be touched, worshipped, feared or ignored.
Architecture & Sculpture
The oldest architecture in the Kathmandu Valley has faded with history. Grassy mounds are all that remain where Patan’s four Ashoka stupas once stood and the impressive stupas of Swayambhunath and Bodhnath have been rebuilt many times over the centuries. Magnificent stonework is one of the lasting reminders of the Licchavi period (4th to 9th centuries AD) and you will discover beautiful pieces scattered around the temples of the Kathmandu Valley. The Licchavi sculptures at the temple of Changu Narayan near Bhaktapur are particularly good examples, as is the statue of Vishnu asleep on a bed of serpents at Budhanilkantha.
No wooden buildings and carvings are known to have survived from before the 12th century, although Newari craftsmen were responsible for parts of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, which still survive.
The famed artistic skills of the valley’s Newari people reached their zenith under the Mallas, particularly between the 15th and 17th centuries. Squabbling and one-upmanship between the city states of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur fuelled a competitive building boom as each tried to outdo the other with even more magnificent palaces and temples.
Nepal, by Michael Hutt, is an excellent guide to the art and architecture of the Kathmandu Valley. It outlines the main forms of art and architecture and describes specific sites within the valley, often with layout plans. It has great colour plates and black-and-white photos.
Their skills extended far beyond the woodwork for which they are so well known and included fine metalwork, terracotta, brickwork and stone sculptures. The finest metalwork includes the stunning images of the two Tara goddesses at Swayambhunath, and the Golden Gate (Sun Dhoka) in Bhaktapur.
Statues were created through two main techniques – the repoussé method of hammering thin sheets of metal (Click here) and the ‘lost wax’ method. In the latter, the statue is carved in wax, this is then encased in clay and left to dry. The wax is then melted, metal is poured into the clay mould and the mould is then broken, leaving the finished statue.
The Nepali architect Arniko can be said to be the father of the Asian pagoda. He kick-started the introduction and reinterpretation of the pagoda in China and eastern Asia when he brought the multiroofed Nepali pagoda design to the court of Kublai Khan in the late 13th century. The great age of Nepali architecture came to a dramatic end when Prithvi Narayan Shah invaded the valley in 1769.
NEPAL’S STOLEN HERITAGE
In the last 20 years Nepal has seen a staggering amount of its artistic heritage spirited out of the country by art thieves – 120 statues were stolen in the 1980s alone. Much of the stolen art languishes in museums or private collections in European nations and in the US, while in Nepal the remaining temple statues are increasingly kept under lock and key.
One of the reasons that photography is banned in some temples in Nepal is that international thieves often put photos of temple artefacts in their underground ‘shopping catalogues’. Pieces are then stolen to order, often with the aid of corrupt officials, to fetch high prices on the lucrative Himalayan art market. UN conventions against the trade exist but are weakly enforced.
Several catalogues of stolen Nepali art have been produced in an attempt to locate these treasures, and in 2000 and 2003 several pieces were given back to Kathmandu’s National Museum, marking the slow return of Nepal’s heritage to its rightful home. Most recently, a Buddha statue stolen from Patan was returned after a dealer tried to sell it to an ethnographic museum in Austria for a cool US$200,000.
These days traditional building skills are still evidenced in the extensive restoration projects of the Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu and the Tachupal Tole buildings in Bhaktapur, which were completed in the 1970s. Today some young architects are attempting to incorporate traditional features into their buildings, particularly hotels.
If you are interested in the architectural conservation of Kathmandu check out the website of the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust at www.kvptnepal.org.
NEWARI PAGODA TEMPLES
The distinctive Newari pagoda temples are a major feature of the Kathmandu Valley skyline, echoing, and possibly inspired by, the horizon’s pyramid-shaped mountain peaks. While strictly speaking they are neither wholly Newari nor pagodas, the term has been widely adopted to describe the temples of the valley.
The temples are generally square in design, and may be either Hindu or Buddhist (or both, as is the nature of Nepali religion). On occasion temples are rectangular or octagonal; Krishna can occupy an octagonal temple, but Ganesh, Shiva and Vishnu can only inhabit square temples.
The major feature of the temples is the tiered roof, which may have one to five tiers, with two or three being the most common. In the Kathmandu Valley there are two temples with four roofs and another two with five (Kumbeshwar at Patan and Nyatapola at Bhaktapur). The sloping roofs are usually covered with distinctive jhingati (baked clay tiles), although richer temples will often have one roof of gilded copper. The bell-shaped gajur (pinnacle) is made of baked clay or gilded copper.
In Power Places of Kathmandu, by Kevin Bubriski and Keith Dowman, Bubriski provides photos of the valley’s most important sacred sites and temples, while noted Buddhist scholar Dowman provides the interesting text.
The temples are usually built on a stepped plinth, which may be as high as or even higher than the temple itself. In many cases the number of steps on the plinth corresponds with the number of roofs on the temple.
The temple building itself has a small sanctum, known as a garbha-griha (literally ‘womb room’), housing the deity. Worshippers practise individually, with devotees standing outside the door to make their supplications. The only people permitted to actually enter the sanctum are pujari (temple priests).
Perhaps the most interesting feature of the temples is the detailed decoration, which is only evident close up. Under each roof there are often brass or other metal decorations, such as kinkinimala (rows of small bells) or embossed metal banners. The metal streamer that often hangs from above the uppermost roof to below the level of the lowest roof (such as on the Golden Temple in Patan) is called a pataka. Its function is to give the deity a way to descend to earth.
TIBETAN CARPETS
One of most amazing success stories of the last few decades is the local Tibetan carpet industry. Although carpet production has long been a cottage industry inside Tibet, in 1960 the Nepal International Tibetan Refugee Relief Committee, with the support of Toni Hagen and the Swiss government, began encouraging Tibetan refugees in Patan to make and sell carpets.
Tibetan and New Zealand wool is used to make the carpets. The exuberant colours and lively designs of traditional carpets have been toned down for the international market, but the old ways of producing carpets remain the same. The intricacies of the senna loop method are hard to pick out in the blur of hands that is usually seen at a carpet workshop; each thread is looped around a gauge rod that will determine the height of the carpet pile, then each row is hammered down and the loops of thread split to release the rod. To finish it off the pile is clipped to bring out the design.
The carpet industry has declined somewhat over recent years, largely because of political instability and negative publicity about the exploitative use of child labour and the use of carcinogenic dye. Still, today Nepal exports more than 130,000 sq metres of rugs (down from a peak of 300,000 sq metres in the 1990s), valued at around US$100 million. The industry accounts for around 50% of the country’s exports of manufactured goods to countries other than India, and employs 200,000 workers directly, and up to a million indirectly. Thanks to the efforts of groups such as Rugmark (www.rugmark.org), child labour in Nepal’s carpet production has dropped from 11% in 1996 to 3% today.
The other major decorative elements are the wooden tunala (struts) that support the roofs. The intricate carvings are usually of deities associated with the temple or of the vahana (deity’s vehicle) but quite a few depict explicit sexual acts (see the boxed text, for more on Nepali erotic art).
The cultural organisation Spiny Babbler (www.spinybabbler.org) has an online Nepali art museum and articles on Nepali art. It is named after Nepal’s only endemic species of bird.
SHIKHARA TEMPLES
The second-most common temples are the shikhara temples, which have a heavy Indian influence. The temples are so named because their tapering tower resembles a shikhara (mountain peak, in Sanskrit). Although the style developed in India in the 6th century, it first appeared in Nepal in the late Licchavi period.
The main feature is the tapering, pyramidal tower, which is often surrounded by four similar but smaller towers, and these may be located on porches over the shrine’s entrances.
The Krishna Mandir and the octagonal Krishna Temple, both in Patan’s Durbar Sq, and the spire of the Mahabouddha Temple in Patan are all excellent examples.
The CD Rough Guide to the Music of the Himalayas has a range of traditional music, from Bill Laswell–produced traditional Tibetan chants to Nepali flutes and drums. You can’t exactly sing along but the tracks evoke the mountains.
Painting
Chinese, Tibetan, Indian and Mughal influences can all be seen in Nepali painting styles. The earliest Newari paintings were illuminated manuscripts dating from the 11th century. Newari paubha paintings are iconic religious paintings similar to Tibetan thangkas. Notable to both is a lack of perspective, symbolic use of colour and strict iconographic rules. Click here for more on thangkas.
Modern Nepali artists struggle to make a living, although there are a few galleries in Kathmandu that feature local artists. Some artists are fortunate enough to get a sponsored overseas exhibition or a posting at an art college outside the country to teach their skills. Commissioning a painting by a local artist is a way to support the arts and take home a unique souvenir of your trip.
The eastern Terai has its own distinct form of colourful mural painting called Mithila art – see the boxed text.
Music & Dance
The last few years have seen a revival in Nepali music and songs, both folk and ‘Nepali modern’. The staple Hindi film songs have been supplanted by a vibrant local-music scene thanks to advances made in FM radio.
In the countryside most villagers supply their own entertainment. Dancing and traditional music enliven festivals and family celebrations, when villages erupt with the energetic sounds of bansari (flutes), madal (drums) and cymbals, or sway to the moving soulful sounds of devotional singing and the gentle twang of the four-stringed sarangi. Singing is one important way that girls and boys in the hills can interact and flirt, showing their grace and wit through dances and improvised songs.
You can see ‘for-tourist’ versions of Nepal’s major dances at Newari restaurants in Kathmandu (Click here for more information).
There are several musician castes, including the gaine, a dwindling caste of travelling minstrels, the ghandarba, whose music you can hear in Kathmandu, and the damai, who often perform in wedding bands. Women generally do not perform music in public.
Nepali dance styles are as numerous and varied as its ethnic groups. They range from the stick dances of the Tharu in the Terai to the linedancing style of the mountain Sherpas. Joining in with an enthusiastic group of porters from different parts of the country at the end of a trekking day is a great way to learn some of the moves. Masked dances are also common, from the Cham dances performed by Tibetan Buddhist monks to the masked Hindu dances of Nava Durga in Bhaktapur.
The website www.mountainmusicproject.blogspot.com has links to radio and video clips of several Nepali musicians, including Rubin Gandharba – the ‘Nepali Bob Dylan’.
A good introduction to popular Nepali folk music is the trio (flute, sitar and tabla) of Sur Sudha, Nepal’s de facto musical ambassadors, whose evocative recordings will take you back to the region long after you’ve tasted your last daal bhaat. Try their Festivals of Nepal and Images of Nepal recordings. You can listen to track excerpts at www.amazon.com and check out the band at www.sursudha.com.
One of Nepal’s most famous singers is the Tibetan nun Choying Drolma, who is based in Pharping in the Kathmandu Valley and who can count Tracey Chapman among her fans. Her CDs Cho and Selwa, recorded with guitarist Steve Tibbets, are transcendentally beautiful and highly recommended.
The folk song that you hear everywhere in Nepal (you’ll know which one we mean when you get there) is ‘Resham Pheeree Ree’ (‘My Heart is Fluttering Like Silk in the Wind’).
The Kathmandu International Mountain Film Festival (www.himalassociation.org/kimff) screens over 60 Nepali and international films every December. Film South Asia (www.himalassociation.org/fsa) is a biennial (odd years) festival of South Asian documentaries.
Film
The Nepali film industry has come a long way since the 1980s and early ’90s, when only four or five films were produced annually. In the late ’90s the Kathmandu film industry (‘Kollywood’) was making up to 70 films per year, although this bubble burst in 2001 when government-imposed curfews caused audience numbers to plummet and finances to dry up.
According to John Whelpton in his History of Nepal, the first film shown in Kathmandu depicted the wedding of the Hindu god Ram. The audience threw petals and offerings at the screen as they would do at a temple or if the god himself were present.
The Oscar-nominated Nepali-French film Caravan, directed by Eric Valli, is the most famous ‘Nepali’ film and played to packed houses in Kathmandu. It features magnificent footage of the Upper Dolpo district of western Nepal as it tells the tale of yak caravaners during a change of generations. It was renamed for distribution abroad as Himalaya.
NEPALI NOVELS
The last few years have seen a bounty of novels written by Nepali writers. Pack one of them in your backpack for added insights into the country.
Arresting God in Kathmandu, by Samrat Upadhyay, is an engaging and readable series of short stories set in Kathmandu by an author billed as the first Nepali writer writing in English (he is now living in the US). His follow-ups include the novel Guru of Love and The Royal Ghosts, a series of short stories set against the backdrop of the Maoist uprising.
Mountains Painted With Turmeric by Lil Bahadur Chettri is a classic 1958 short novel, recently translated into English by Michael Hutt. The novel realistically portrays the struggles of a farming family trapped in a cycle of poverty and social conservatism in eastern Nepal.
Several novels have tried to make sense of the political chaos in Nepal’s recent history. Palpasa Café, by Narayan Wagle, tells the story of an artist, an expat Nepali and a guerrilla set against the backdrop of the war, revolution and political violence that has dominated life in rural Nepal for the last 10 years. The author is the editor of the Kantipur newspaper.
The Tutor of History, by Manjushree Thapa, is a portrait of a rural Nepali village in western Nepal during the run-up to elections. It’s worth a read for its insights into modern Nepal. Thapa is also the author of Tilled Earth, a collection of short stories.
Basantpur by Neer Shah, the coproducer of Caravan, is a recent Nepali film depicting the intrigues and conspiracies of life at the Rana court. Another Nepali film to look out for is Mukundo (Mask of Desire), directed by Tsering Rita Sherpa, which explores secular and spiritual desires in Kathmandu. Tulsi Ghimire is another popular Nepali director. Perhaps the best-known film shot in Nepal is Bernado Bertolucci’s Little Buddha, which was partly filmed at Bhaktapur’s Durbar Sq and the Gokarna Forest.
Kagbeni, by Bhushan Dahal, is Nepal’s first ever HD movie. A creepy supernatural tale adapted from the short story The Monkey’s Paw, by WW Jacobs, it is set in the foothills around Annapurna. You can view the trailer at www.kagbeni.us.
Literature
Nepal’s literary history is brief, dating back to just the 19th century. The written language was little used before then, although religious verse, folklore, songs and translations of Sanskrit and Urdu dating back to the 13th century have been found.
One of the first authors to establish Nepali as a literary language was Bhanubhakta Acharya (1814–68), who broke away from the influence of Indian literature and recorded the Ramayana in Nepali; this was not simply a translation but a Nepali-ised version of the Hindu epic. Motiram Bhatta (1866–96) also played a major role in 19th-century literature, as did Lakshmi Prasad Devkota (1909–59) in the 20th century.
Himalayan Voices: an Introduction to Modern Nepali Literature, by Michael Hutt, includes work by contemporary poets and short-story writers.
Nepal’s literary community has always struggled in a country where literacy levels are extremely low. However, today a vibrant and enthusiastic literary community exists, meeting in teashops, brew houses and bookstalls in Kathmandu and other urban centres.
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Food & Drink
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
DRINKS
CELEBRATIONS
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
HABITS & CUSTOMS
COOKING COURSES
EAT YOUR WORDS
You can eat like a king in Kathmandu and Pokhara, but sadly, this cannot always be said for the rest of the country. Most Nepali cooks do not have the luxury of expensive ingredients or the time to make complicated meals, and most Nepalis eat rice and vegetables twice a day, every day. If you are used to a varied diet with lots of meat and dairy, eating in some areas of Nepal can feel like slow death for your taste buds.
There are two local forms of porridge in the mountains – tsampa, made from roasted barley flour, and dhedo, a thick doughlike paste made from grain or millet flour.
The good news is that over the years international travellers have brought dishes from home to Nepal. As a result, restaurants in tourist areas are a world map of cuisines, with dishes from Tibet, China, India, Japan, Thailand, Mexico, Italy, France and the Middle East. Take advantage of these offerings – once you start trekking it’s rice and vegetables, all day, every day…
STAPLES & SPECIALITIES
Most Hindu Nepalis are vegetarians, some out of choice and some out of necessity. The staple meal of Nepal is daal bhaat tarkari – literally ‘lentil soup’, ‘rice’ and ‘curried vegetables’. If you are lucky it will be spiced up with achar (pickles) and maybe some chapati (unleavened Indian bread), dahi (curd or yoghurt) or papad (pappadam – crispy fried lentil-flour pancake). The most common vegetables are potato, green leaves and chayote (a kind of squash, introduced from South America). Only very occasionally does it come with masu (meat).
To eat daal bhaat the local way, pour the soupy daal onto the rice, mix it into balls with your fingers, add a pinch of pickle and vegetables and shovel it into your mouth with your right hand.
However, the Newars of the Kathmandu Valley are great meat eaters – buff (water buffalo) is the meat of choice, as cows are sacred and never eaten, but goat is also common. Spices feature heavily in Newari food, especially chilli, and Newari dishes are usually served with chiura (dry, beaten rice). One cheap and cheerful dish you’ll find everywhere is chow mein (thin noodles fried with vegetables or meat).
Many of the best Newari dishes are only eaten at celebrations or family events. However, several upmarket restaurants in Kathmandu serve good Newari cuisine (Click here). Nepal is also one of the best places to try Tibetan cuisine, though most dishes are simple variations on momos (stuffed dumplings) or thuk (noodles, typically served in soups).
Click here for a rundown of common dishes.
Garam masala (hot mix) is a blend of cardamom, cloves, fenugreek, coriander, cinnamon, cumin, fennel and pepper. Serious chefs make their own – you can buy all the ingredients around the Asan Tole area in Kathmandu.
Desserts
Like their Indian neighbours, Nepalis enjoy a huge range of sticky sweets, mostly based on milk curd, jaggery (palm sugar) and nuts. Top treats include barfi (milk fudge), rasbari (milk balls), lal mohan (deep-fried milky dough balls), kheer (rice pudding) and julebi (orange-coloured, syrupy fried dough swirls).
Anyone who visits Bhaktapur should try the juju dhau (king of curds), a wonderfully creamy thick yoghurt. Because of the vagaries of refrigeration, avoid ice cream except in upmarket tourist restaurants.
A Cautionary Tale… Joe Bindloss
Where meat is served in the mountains, it is often dried and marinated with chilli, ginger and other spices to create a form of meat jerky known as sukuti. Although delicious, sukuti is the living embodiment of the phrase ‘tough as old leather’. While researching this book, I cracked a molar on a particularly tough piece of sukuti and had to walk for five days to reach a dentist who performed an emergency root canal operation without anaesthetic! My advice is chop your sukuti up into small bits and chew gently…
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DRINKS
Nonalcoholic
The golden rule in Nepal is don’t drink the water (Click here). Cheap bottled water is available everywhere but every bottle contributes to Nepal’s mountain of waste plastic. You can purify your own water if you carry a canteen or water bottle and iodine drops or tablets.
Tibetans take their tea with butter and salt, rather than milk and sugar – providing useful metabolites for dealing with cold weather.
Tea is almost always safe. Tourist restaurants often serve the world’s weakest tea – typically an ineffectual Mechi tea bag dunked into a glass of sweet, hot milk. For proper Nepali chiya (sometimes called masala tea), the leaves are boiled with milk, sugar and spices. If you want Western-style tea, ask for ‘milk separate’.
In Tibetan-influenced areas the drink of choice is black tea churned with salt and (sometimes iffy) butter. It’s an acquired taste – locals often pour it over their tsampa (roasted barley flour). In Indian-influenced areas, look out for lassi – a refreshing drink of curd (yoghurt) mixed with sugar and what may be untreated water (proceed with caution).
Alcoholic
Nepali beer – lager, of course – is pretty good, especially after a hard day’s walking. Tuborg (Danish), Carlsberg (Danish), Löwenbräu (German) and San Miguel (Spanish) are brewed under licence in Nepal; local brands include Gorkha and Everest. Nepal Distilleries produces a variety of bottled spirits that claim to be rum, whisky, brandy and gin. Most are pretty grim, but Kukhri Rum goes down well with mixers. For more local alcoholic drinks, see opposite.
The Nepal Cookbook, by the Association of Nepalis in the Americas, is a good collection of home recipes, or try Taste of Nepal, by Jyoti Pathak.
Officially alcohol is not sold by retailers on the first two days (full moon days) and the last two Saturdays of the Nepali month, but this rarely affects tourist restaurants.
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CELEBRATIONS
At festival time, animal sacrifices are followed by feasts known as bhoj where the carcasses are put to good use in the cookpot. Certain festivals are associated with specific foods. During the Janai Purnima festival, Newars make up batches of kwati, a soup made from up to a dozen types of sprouted beans. During the Tibetan Buddhist festival of Lhosar (Tibetan New Year), a special dumpling stew called gutuk is served and the leftover dumplings are ceremonially cast away, representing the casting away of bad luck.
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WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Restaurants
In 1955 Kathmandu had only one restaurant. These days, every other building in Kathmandu is a restaurant, serving food from across the globe. However, travel outside Kathmandu and Pokhara and you’ll find that menus quickly shrink to chow mein, fried rice, fried potatoes and daal bhaat.
Nepal has a long history of drinking milk and eating products made from milk curd, but fermented cheese was only introduced (from Switzerland) in the 1950s!
At local restaurants, known as bhojanalayas, the custom is to eat with your right hand. If you order daal bhaat, someone will come around offering free extra helpings of rice, daal or tarkari (vegetable curry). Also look out for the vegetarian restaurants known as misthan bhandars, which serve Indian sweets and dosas (fried lentil-flour pancakes).
In small local restaurants and trekking lodges, the cooking equipment is often limited to a simple gas burner or a cooking fire. To save firewood and time, order the same food as your companions and order together.
FARANGI (FOREIGN) FOOD
Many restaurants in Kathmandu try to serve something from everywhere – pizzas, momos, Indian curries, a bit of Thai here, some Mexican tacos there. Predictably, some places do this better than others.
THE LOCAL FIREWATER
On trekking routes, look out for the traditional homebrews of the hills. One drink you’ll find everywhere is chang, a mildly alcoholic concoction made from fermented rice (or occasionally barley or millet) and water, which may be untreated. It can be drunk hot or cold – local connoisseurs take it hot with a raw egg in it…
In eastern Nepal, look out for tongba, a Himalayan brew made by pouring boiling water into a wooden (or metal) pot full of fermented millet. The liquid is slurped through a bamboo straw and more hot water is added periodically to seep extra alcohol from the mash. Harder spirits include arak, fermented from potatoes or grain, and raksi, a distilled rice wine that runs the gamut from smooth sipping schnapps to headache-inducing paint stripper.
For the best international food, head to the specialist restaurants of Kathmandu. Among other dishes, you’ll find spectacular Sicilian pizzas, Sichuan chicken, flawless Korean bulgogi, sublime sushi, brilliant burritos, terrific tandoori chicken and perfect pad thai.
Most Nepalis round off a meal with a digestif of pan (betel nut and leaf mixture). Those little spots of red on the pavement that look like little pools of blood are (generally) pan.
Quick Eats
Nepali towns have a range of snack foods, from muffins in bakeries to grilled corn cobs on the street. A couple of samsa (samosas – potato curry, fried in a lentil-dough parcel) or papad (fried lentil-flour crisps) make a great snack. Newari beer snacks are legendary – try a plate of sekuwa (spiced, barbecued meat) or ‘masala peanuts’ (with chilli and spices) when you have a beer.
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HABITS & CUSTOMS
When following the Nepali eating schedule, the morning begins with a cup of sweet tea and a light snack such as samsa, puri (fried bread), or sel (rice-flour doughnuts) with spiced chickpeas. This is followed by a more substantial meal in the late morning. Dinner is generally just before going to bed.
Food Nepal (www.food-nepal.com) offers an excellent introduction to Nepali food and ingredients, with recipes from mango lassi to chicken chilli.
Hindus have strict rules about keeping food and drink ritually pure and unpolluted. A high-caste Brahmin cannot eat food prepared or touched by a lower-caste individual as it is considered to be jhuto (polluted).
In general, when eating in a group, no one gets up until everyone has finished their food. If you have to leave early, make your apologies by saying bistaai khaanus, or ‘please eat slowly’.
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COOKING COURSES
There are a handful of cooking courses in Nepal:
- Sadhana Yoga Centre (Map;
061-694041; www.sadhana-asanga-yoga.com) Courses in Nepali cooking at a popular yoga centre near Pokhara. - Trekkers Holiday Inn ( 01-4480334; www.trekkersholidayinn.com; Chuchepati, Bodhnath) This Swiss-run centre offers a Nepali cookery course on Saturday afternoons – call or email for the latest prices and venue.
- Via Via Café (Map; 01-4700184; www.viaviacafe.com; Kathmandu) This Belgian-Nepali restaurant (Click here) runs weekly cookery courses for €5.
Members of the Brahmin caste will not eat chicken, buffalo, onion, tomatoes, mushrooms or eggs, or anything prepared by somebody from another caste. Conversely, food prepared by Brahmins can be eaten by people of any caste.
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EAT YOUR WORDS
For pronunciation guidelines and other general language phrases Click here.
- Useful Phrases
- I’m a vegetarian
- ma sāhkāhari hun
- I don’t like spicy food
- ma piro khandina/piro nahahlnuhos
- Can I have the bill?
- bill pauna sakchhu?
- Please bring me a spoon
- malai chamchah lyaunuhos
Food Glossary
| alu | potato |
| badam | peanut |
| bhaat | cooked rice |
| bhanta | eggplant |
| daal | lentils |
| dahi | yoghurt |
| dudh | milk |
| gobi | cauliflower |
| kerah | banana |
| khasi | mutton |
| kukhara | chicken |
| maachha | fish |
| masu | meat |
| murgh | chicken |
| phul | egg |
| ram toriya | okra (lady’s finger) |
| roti | bread |
| sag | spinach |
Nepali uses different words for ‘clean’ (saphaa) and ‘ritually clean’ (choko).
DRINKS
| (chiso) biyar | (cold) beer |
| chini | sugar |
| chiya | tea |
| sodamah kagati | lemon soda |
| tato panimah kagati | hot lemon |
| umaahleko pani | boiled water |
In rural areas Nepalis often greet each other with khaanaa khaiyo? or ‘have you eaten yet?’
NEPALI & NEWARI FOOD
| aloo tahmah | stew made from potatoes, bamboo shoots and beans |
| aloo tareko | fried potato with cumin, turmeric and chilli |
| chatamari | rice-flour pancake topped with meat and/or egg |
| chiura | beaten rice, served as an alternative to rice |
| choyla or choila | roasted spiced buff (water buffalo) meat, usually eaten with chiura |
| daal bhaat tarkari | rice, lentil soup and vegetables – the staple food of Nepal |
| dayakula | meat curry |
| gundruk | traditional Nepali sour soup with dried vegetables |
| gurr | grilled pancake made from raw potatoes ground and mixed with spices |
| khasi kho ledo | lamb curry |
| kwati | a special festival soup made from a dozen types of sprouted beans |
| mis mas tarkari | seasonal mixed vegetables |
| samay baji | ritual feast of chiura, choyla, black soybeans and other side dishes |
| sandeko | cold pickles |
| sekuwa | spiced, barbecued meat, fish or chicken |
| sikarni | sweet whipped yoghurt dessert with nuts, cinnamon and dried fruit |
| sukuti | extremely spicy nibble of dried buffalo or goat meat |
| tama | traditional Nepali soup made from dried bamboo shoots |
| wo | lentil-flour pancake |
DOS & DON’TS
- Food becomes ritually jhuto (polluted) if touched by someone else’s hand, plate or utensils, so only eat off your own plate and never use your own fork or spoon to serve food off a communal plate.
- When using water from a communal jug or cup, pour it straight into your mouth without touching the sides (and without pouring it all over your shirt!).
- Don’t use your left hand for eating or passing food to others as this hand is used for personal ablutions.
- Do wait to be served.
- Do leave your shoes outdoors when dining in someone’s house.
- Do wash your hands and mouth before dining.
- Do ask for seconds when eating at someone’s home.
WE DARE YOU!
In Newari eateries you can find dishes made from just about every imaginable part of an animal. Dishes for the brave include jan-la (raw steak with the skin attached), bul-la (dregs of rice wine with diced spleen and pieces of bone), ti-syah (fried spinal bone marrow) and the aptly named swan-puka (lung filled through the windpipe with spicy batter and then boiled, sliced and fried) topped off with some cho-hi (steamed blood pudding). Oh…my…God… Still hungry?
TIBETAN DISHES
| gacok | Tibetan hotpot; usually for a group of people |
| kapse | fried Tibetan bread, often served with honey |
| kothe (kothe) | fried momos |
| momo | meat, cheese or vegetables wrapped in dough and steamed |
| phing | glass noodles, vermicelli |
| pingtsey | wontons |
| richotse | momos in soup |
| sha-bhalay | meat in a deep-fried pastie (sya-bhakley) |
| shabrel | meatballs |
| talumein | egg noodle soup |
| thentuk | similar to thukpa but with noodle squares |
| thukpa | traditional thick Tibetan meat soup (also thugpa) |
| ting-mo | steamed Tibetan bread |
| tsampa | ground roasted barley, eaten in place of rice; often mixed with tea, water or milk |
| tserel | vegetable balls |
The Nepali word for eating is khanu, which is also used for the verbs ‘to drink’ and ‘to smoke’.
INDIAN DISHES
| bhaji | vegetable fritter |
| biryani | steamed rice with meat or vegetables |
| channa masala | chickpea curry |
| chicken tikka | skewered chunks of marinated chicken |
| korma | currylike braised dish, often quite sweet |
| makani | any dish cooked with butter, often daal or chicken |
| malai kofta | potato and nut dumplings in a rich gravy |
| matter paneer | unfermented cheese with peas |
| nan | baked bread |
| pakora | fried vegetables in batter |
| palak paneer | unfermented cheese with spinach in a gravy |
| pilau | rice cooked in stock and flavoured with spices |
| rogan josh | Kashmiri-style lamb curry |
| samosa | pyramid-shaped, deep-fried and potato-filled pasties |
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Responsible Tourism
SUSTAINABLE TOURISM INITIATIVES
CONTRIBUTING WHILE YOU TRAVEL
VOLUNTEER WORK
ECONOMIC CHOICES
CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS
USEFUL ORGANISATIONS
In the 50 years since Nepal opened its borders to outsiders, tourism has brought many benefits, in terms of wealth generation, employment opportunities, infrastructure, health care, education and transport, creating a level of social mobility that would have been unthinkable in the past. Many of the Nepalis who own trekking companies today worked as porters themselves 20 years ago.
Sadly, the negative effects of tourism are also clear to see. Begging is widespread and litter chokes mountain trails. New hotels and lodges are being built at an unprecedented rate, and forests are vanishing as lodge owners collect ever more firewood to keep trekkers supplied with warm showers and hot meals.
There is endless discussion among travellers about the most environmentally and culturally sensitive way to travel. What is certain is that making a positive contribution is as much about the way you behave as the money you spend. Independent travellers may spend less money, but they have a much greater impact on poverty alleviation by contributing directly to the local economy.
The following sections cover some of the issues you will need to think about, but drop into the Kathmandu office of Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP; Map; 01-4216775; www.keepnepal.org; Thamel; 
10am-5pm Sun-Fri) for more advice.
For tips on responsible trekking in Nepal Click here.
Trekkers in Nepal leave behind an estimated 100 tonnes of unrecyclable water bottles every year. Plastic bottles don’t have to end up in landfill – the clothing firm Patagonia is one of several organisations spinning discarded bottles into fleeces. It takes just 25 plastic water bottles to make a new fleece jacket for an adult.
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SUSTAINABLE TOURISM INITIATIVES
Following the lead of international development organisations, the Nepal Tourism Board has established the Tourism For Rural Poverty Alleviation Programme (TRPAP; 01-4269768; www.welcome2nepal.com.cn/index-3.htm), which aims to develop new community-based environmental and cultural tourism projects in rural areas. Profits from homestay accommodation and handicrafts are funnelled into village social funds. The programs change from year to year – see their website for details.
A smaller village homestay program operates in the Gurung village of Sirubari, about 56km from Pokhara.
Dolma Ecotourism (www.dolmatours.com) runs 14-day trips to Briddim in the Langtang area, during which you stay in village-houses, learn the local language and take cookery classes. Profits help fund local development and education projects – for more on this area see Tamang Heritage Trail, Click here.
World Expeditions (www.worldexpeditions.net) has a useful online booklet on responsible tourism – follow the ‘Responsible Travel’ links.
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CONTRIBUTING WHILE YOU TRAVEL
A number of trekking and tour agencies use the proceeds from their trips to support charitable projects around Nepal, and many travellers also undertake sponsored treks and climbing expeditions in Nepal to raise money for specific charities and projects. Organisations that set up expeditions of this kind include:
- Community Action Treks (www.catreks.com) Offers various treks that contribute to the work of Community Action Nepal (www.canepal.org.uk).
- Dolma Ecotourism (www.dolmatours.com) Runs tours and treks which help fund the Dolma Development Fund, which manages a variety of social, education and health-care projects.
- Exodus (www.exodus.co.uk/responsible-travel) UK agency offering various treks; proceeds help fund tree-planting in Mustang and an orphanage in Patan.
- Explore Nepal (Map; www.xplorenepal.com.np) Trek and tour agency with commendable ethical policies; money from trips helps fund litter clearing and other environmental projects.
- Himalayan Travel (www.himalayantravel.co.uk) UK agency offering treks to support the Nepal Trust (www.nepaltrust.org).
- Sponsortrek Nepal (www.sponsortrek.nl) Dutch agency offering various treks with a donation to medical projects in Nepal.
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VOLUNTEER WORK
Hundreds of travellers volunteer in Nepal every year, working on an incredible range of development and conservation projects, covering everything from volunteering with street children in Kathmandu to counting the tracks of endangered animals in the high Himalaya.
British climber Doug Scott is one of dozens of mountaineers who have returned to Nepal to establish development projects for the people who helped them to the top. Doug now runs treks to support the charity Community Action Nepal (www.canepal.org.uk).
However, it is important to remember the principles of ethical volunteering – good volunteer agencies match volunteers to suitable projects, rather than offering the chance to do whatever you want, wherever you want, for as long as you like. www.ethicalvolunteering.org for more tips on selecting an ethical volunteer agency.
Although you give your time for free, you will be expected to pay for food and lodging, and you may also be asked to pay a placement fee. Fees paid to local agencies tend to be much lower than the huge fees charged by some international volunteer agencies, and you can be confident that the money will be used locally.
When looking for a volunteer placement, a good place to start is the Kathmandu office of Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP; see opposite).
This highly regarded organisation places volunteers with a variety of local NGOs (nongovernmental organisations) and offers one-month placements in Kathmandu teaching English and other skills to porters and guides in December/January and July/August. A minimum two-month time commitment is preferred and there’s a US$50 administration fee which covers you for one year.
For more on the general issues behind responsible tourism, check out Tourism Concern (www.tourismconcern.org.uk).
Other organisations that arrange volunteer placements and volunteer treks include:
- Balthali Resort (www.balthalivillageresort.com) This resort near Panauti can arrange all sorts of volunteer opportunities at local villages.
- Butterfly Foundation (www.butterflyfoundation.org) Accepts volunteers to help with administration and child care at its orphanage in Pokhara; linked to Butterfly Lodge.
- Child Environment Nepal (www.cennepal.org.np) Takes child-care volunteers in its orphanage at Naya Bazaar in Kathmandu.
- Crooked Trails (www.crookedtrails.com) Runs fundraising treks and volunteer programs that can be combined with treks.
- Cultural Destination Nepal (www.volunteernepal.org.np) A cultural immersion package, combining a homestay and Nepali language course with a one- to three-month volunteer placement.
- Cultural Tourism Restoration Project (www.crtp.net) Paying volunteer treks to Mustang to help with the restoration of Chairro Gompa.
- Esther Benjamins Trust (www.ebtrust.org.uk) Can arrange placements working to improve the lives of trafficked and abandoned children.
- Ford Foundation (www.fordnepal.org) Arranges volunteer work focusing on teaching and child care; accommodation is provided by a host family.
- Global Vision International (www.gvi.co.uk, www.gviusa.com) Offers one-month volunteer placements on educational and conservation projects in the Everest region.
- Global Volunteer Network (www.volunteer.org.nz/nepal) A Kiwi organisation offering placements in health care, education, child care and social development.
Some of the best work done by volunteers is arranged through VSO (www.vso.org) in the UK, which arranges long-term placements (lasting up to two years) for skilled professionals.
- Helping Hands (www.helpinghandsusa.org) Places medical volunteers at clinics around Nepal.
- Himalayan Encounters (Map; 01-4700426; www.himalayanencounters.com; Kathmandu Guest House courtyard, Thamel, Kathmandu) This trekking and rafting agency can arrange volunteer placements at schools and orphanages.
- Himalayan Healthcare (www.himalayan-healthcare.org) Arranges medical and dental treks around Nepal.
- Himshikhar Socio-Cultural Society (www.hopenhome.org) Nepali NGO placing volunteers on health, teaching and child-care programs.
- Insight Nepal (www.insightnepal.org.np) Combines a cultural and education program near Pokhara with a volunteer placement and a trek in the Annapurna region; the package lasts seven weeks or three months.
- Journeys International (www.journeys.travel) American agency offering tree-planting treks in the foothills west of Kathmandu.
- Kanchenjunga School Project (www.kangchenjunga.org) Arranges treks with volunteer placements in health and education at villages in the Kanchenjunga region.
- Mount Everest Foundation (www.everestparivar.com/mount) Runs an annual service trek providing health care in remote parts of Solu Khumbu.
- Mountain Fund (www.mountainfund.org) Offers various volunteer opportunities, including an annual volunteer medical trek.
- Mountain Trust Nepal (www.mountain-trust.org) British NGO that can arrange volunteer placements in social projects around Pokhara.
- Nepal Sathi (www.nepalsathi.ws) Places volunteers on projects at villages near the Arniko Hwy in central Nepal.
- Nepali Children’s Trust (www.nepalichildrenstrust.com) Runs an annual trek for volunteers and disabled Nepali children from the Annapurna region.
- Prison Assist Nepal (www.panepal.org) Kathmandu-based organisation that needs volunteers to help look after children whose parents are in prison.
- Rainbow Children Home (www.orphancarenepal.org) Accepts volunteers at its Pokhara children’s home, and also arranges fund-raising treks.
- Rokpa (www.rokpa.org) Swiss-Tibetan organisation that needs volunteers for its soup kitchen and medical tent at Bodhnath for six or more weeks (December-March).
- Rural Community Development Programme (www.rcdpnepal.org) Arranges placements on volunteer projects that can be combined with organised treks.
- Social Tours (www.socialtours.com) Can arrange volunteer placements as part of treks around Nepal.
- Sustainable Agriculture Development Programme (www.sadpnepal.org) Arranges placements in sustainable and organic agriculture and other social programs near Pokhara.
- Volunteer Nepal National Group (www.volnepal.np.org) Places volunteers on a variety of teaching, conservation and development programs.
- Volunteer Service Nepal (VSN; www.vsnnepal.org) Places volunteers on social and educational projects around Nepal.
For details on fair-trade organisations and the crafts they produce, Click here and Click here. See also the boxed text about the Janakpur Women’s Development Centre.
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ECONOMIC CHOICES
Don’t underestimate your power as an informed consumer. You can maximise the impact of the money you spend by frequenting locally owned restaurants and lodges and by shopping at fair-trade craft stores. By choosing local trekking agencies, tour companies and lodges that have a policy of reducing their environmental and cultural impact, you are providing an example to other travellers and an incentive for other companies to adopt the same practices.
Entry fees to historical sights contribute to their preservation, and the growth of ‘ecotourism’ in Nepal’s national parks and conservation areas has encouraged the government to make environmental protection a priority. Hiring guides on treks also helps; as well as improving your cultural understanding, it provides employment for local people, infusing money into the hill economy.
Ethical Shopping
Many species in Nepal are being driven towards extinction by the trade in animal parts. Although most products made from endangered species are sent to China or Tibet for use in traditional medicine, travellers also contribute to the problem by buying souvenirs made from wild animals.
In particular, avoid anything made from fur, and the metal-inlaid animal skulls and tortoise shells sold as cultural souvenirs. Another item to avoid is the shahtoosh shawl – endangered chiru, or Tibetan antelope, are killed to provide the wool.
Also be aware of the threat posed to Nepal’s cultural heritage by the illegal trade in antiquities (see the boxed text). The export of real antiques is banned but local artisans still use traditional techniques, so you can avoid any problems by buying modern reproductions.
More information on fair trade can be found on the websites of the Fair Trade Group Nepal (www.fairtradegroupnepal.org) and the World Fair Trade Organisation (www.ifat.org).
FAIR TRADE
Fair trade principles can make a genuine difference in Nepal, a nation where 90% of the population live in underdeveloped rural areas. A number of non-profit organisations support local cooperatives that pay artisans a fair wage to produce traditional crafts in safe working conditions, using sustainable materials, without child labour. Many of these organisations provide work, training and education for workers from neglected economic groups, including women, the disabled and members of the ‘untouchable’ castes.
Established by the Nepali philanthropist Tulsi Mehar, Mahaguthi (www.mahaguthi.org) provides support, employment and rehabilitation for destitute women, funded through the sale of quality handicrafts at its fair-trade shops in Patan and Lazimpat (Kathmandu). Click here for information on Mahaguthi and other fair-trade stores in Patan.
The workshops run by Tibetan refugees at Jawalakhel in Patan also contribute directly to the welfare of disadvantaged people – Click here for details.
Begging
Hinduism and Buddhism have a long tradition of giving alms to the needy. However, begging in Nepal today is also fuelled by the perception that foreigners will hand out money on demand. In areas frequented by tourists, groups of beggars work specific street corners using tried-and-tested scams to separate tourists from their money. Among all this, there are also many people who are genuinely in need.
Haggling is a way of life in Nepal (Click here) but wrangling over the last Rs 10 may lead to the vendor making a loss to save face; while paying over the odds will drive up local inflation (especially for the next tourist).
At many religious sites you will see long lines of beggars, and pilgrims customarily give a coin to everyone in the line (there are special moneychangers nearby who will change notes for loose change). Sadhus (holy men) are also dependent on alms, though there are plenty of con artists among their ranks.
In tourist areas, you can expect to be harassed with requests for ‘one pen, one bonbon, one rupee’ by children and even sometimes by adults. Don’t encourage this behaviour. Most Nepalis find it offensive and demeaning (as do most visitors), and it encourages a whole range of unhealthy attitudes.
Ways to Help
You only need to look at the standards of dentistry in Nepal to realise that handing out sweets to children is neither appropriate or responsible. If you want to give something to local people, make the donation to an adult, preferably someone in authority, like a teacher or a lama at a local monastery. Appropriate gifts include toothbrushes and toothpaste, pens and paper, biodegradable soap and school books, preferably with lessons in Nepali or other local languages.
If you must give money, consider making a donation to a local or international NGO that is working in the area. Sir Edmund Hillary’s Himalayan Trust ( 01-4412168; www.himalayan-trust.org; Dilli Bazaar) supports education, health care, cultural projects and afforestation across the Himalaya, and similar work is carried out by the Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation (www.thesiredmundhillaryfoundation.ca) in Canada and the American Himalayan Foundation (www.himalayan-foundation.org) in the USA. The American Himalayan Foundation also runs various social and cultural projects to benefit Sherpas and Tibetan refugees.
The following organisations also may accept donations.
If you have any clothes or medicines left at the end of your trip, don’t haul them home. Instead donate them to the clothing bank run by the Mountain Fund (www.mountainfund.org).
DEVELOPMENT ORGANISATIONS
- Community Action Nepal (www.canepal.org.uk) Charity founded by mountaineer Doug Scott, working in porter villages in the Middle Hills.
- Eco Himal (www.ecohimal.org) Austrian organisation, running development projects across Nepal, including an ecotourism scheme in the Rolwaling Valley.
- Ford Foundation Nepal (www.fordnepal.org) Runs education, development and cultural projects across Nepal.
- Global Action Nepal (www.gannepal.org) Sponsors various development projects in Nepal, and has run volunteer programs in the past.
- Himalayan Light Foundation (www.hlf.org.np) Provides solar power and renewable energy to villages across Nepal.
- Himalayan Projects (www.himalayanprojects.org) Belgian organisation that supports education and health projects in the Annapurna region.
- Nepal Trust (www.nepaltrust.org) Runs integrated development programs in northwestern Nepal.
- Room to Read (www.roomtoread.org) Establishes libraries and other educational facilities around Nepal.
CHILDREN’S ORGANISATIONS
- APC Nepal (www.pommecannelle.org) Operates a home for street kids in Basantapur, Kathmandu.
- Child Welfare Scheme (www.childwelfarescheme.org) Provides support for impoverished and homeless children in Pokhara and around Nepal.
- Educate the Children Nepal (www.etc-nepal.org) Provides education and training opportunities for children and women in rural areas.
- Read Nepal (www.readglobal.org/nepal.asp) Provides education at village level across Nepal.
Street Children of Nepal Trust (www.streetchildrenofnepal.org) UK organisation providing health care, education and support for disadvantaged children.
HEALTH ORGANISATIONS
- Britain-Nepal Medical Trust (www.britainnepalmedicaltrust.org.uk) Joint venture providing health care in Nepal since 1968.
- Himalayan Cataract Project (www.cureblindness.org) Works to cure blindness caused by cataracts.
- Himalayan Rescue Association (www.himalayanrescue.org) Provides emergency medicine to villagers and trekkers at high altitude.
- The Fred Hollows Foundation (www.hollows.com.au) Australian organisation treating cataract blindness in Nepal.
- Tilganga Eye Centre (www.tilganga.org) Provides eye-care services to the poorest of the country’s poor.
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CULTURAL CONSIDERATIONS
Travellers may find the traditional lifestyle of people in Nepal to be picturesque, but in many places it is a meagre, subsistence-level existence that could be improved in numerous ways. The challenge faced by the numerous charitable organisations working in Nepal is how to bring a modern standard of living without destroying the traditional culture of the mountains.
You can do your bit by showing respect for local traditions – this will also demonstrate to local people that the relationship between locals and foreigners is one of equals. Many of the problems experienced by travellers in Nepal have been caused by past travellers who have treated locals as second-class citizens.
Visiting Religious Sites
When visiting monasteries or temples, avoid smoking and remove your shoes before you enter. Always walk clockwise around Buddhist stupas (bell-shaped religious structures), chörtens (Tibetan-style stupas) and mani (stone carved with a Tibetan-Buddhist chant) walls, even if this involves detouring off the trail. Some Hindu temples are closed to non-Hindus (this is normally indicated by a sign) and others will not allow you to enter with any leather items. Locals always leave a donation in a gompa or temple and you should follow their example.
Buddhism has a number of taboos which you should avoid. The head is regarded as the ‘highest part of the body’, so avoid touching children on the head, particularly young monks. Similarly, the feet are the ‘lowest’ part of the body – never sit with the soles of your feet pointing towards a person or a Buddha image, and don’t step over someone’s outstretched legs.
If you are introduced to a Buddhist lama (teacher) it is customary to give a kata (white scarf) to the Buddhist lama. Place it in the lama’s hands, not around their neck.
Smoking is forbidden at Buddhist monasteries and other sacred sites across Nepal. As legend has it, even the great Guru Rinpoche believed the demon weed was an obstacle to enlightenment!
Public Modesty
Follow the lead of locals when it comes to appropriate clothing. Short shorts, sleeveless tops and other revealing items of clothing are unsuitable for women or men. Nudity is unacceptable anywhere. Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon, so tone down the public intimacy. Nepali men often walk around hand in hand, but this does not carry any sexual overtones.
Manners
Nepalis rarely shake hands – the namaste greeting (placing your palms together in a prayer position) is a better choice. When giving or receiving money, use your right hand and touch your right elbow with your left hand, as a gesture of respect. If you are invited into a Nepali home, always remove your shoes before you enter. Do not throw rubbish onto any fire used for cooking – fire is considered sacred.
Nepalis do not like to give negative answers and will always try to give some answer, even if they do not know the answer to your question. If you are given incorrect information, this may be through fear of disappointing you. Raising your voice or shouting shows extremely bad manners and will not solve your problem, whatever it might be. Always try to remain cool, calm and collected.
A sideways tilt or wobble of the head, accompanied by a slight shrug of the shoulders, conveys agreement in Nepal, not a ‘no’.
Photography
The behaviour of some photographers at places such as Pashupatinath (the most holy cremation site in Nepal) is shameful – imagine the outrage if a busload of scantily clad, camera-toting tourists invaded a family funeral in the West. Do not intrude with a camera, unless it is clearly OK with the people you are photographing. Ask first, and respect the wishes of local people. Photography is prohibited at many temples and monasteries, and it is plainly inappropriate at cremations or where people are washing in public at riverbanks or cisterns. If you attend any religious ritual, get explicit permission from senior participants before you start clicking.
The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC; [email protected]) was set up to combat the growing problem of pollution in the Everest region – drop into its office in Lukla or Namche Bazaar for information on current issues and campaigns.
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USEFUL ORGANISATIONS
There are a number of organisations based in Nepal that are involved in grassroots initiatives to minimise the impact of tourism. Contact the following:
- Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP; Map; 01-4222406; www.ntnc.org.np; Pradarshanti Marg, Kathmandu; 9am-5pm Sun-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) Nongovernmental, nonprofit organisation that exists to improve local standards of living, to protect the environment and to develop more sensitive forms of tourism. ACAP also administers the Annapurna Conservation Area and Manaslu Conservation Area. There are branches in Kathmandu, Patan and Pokhara.
- Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP; Map; 01-4216775; www.keepnepal.org; Jyatha, Thamel; 10am-5pm Sun-Fri) This excellent educational organisation offers advice on reducing the environmental impact of tourism. Drop into the Kathmandu office for tips and purified water refills.
- National Trust for Nature Conservation ( 01-5526571; www.ntnc.org.np) Manages and oversees the Annapurna Conservation Area and Manaslu Conservation Area and promotes conservation and sustainable development.
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Environment
THE LAND
WILDLIFE
NATIONAL PARKS & CONSERVATION AREAS
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
Nepal is blessed by, and is hostage to, its incredible environment. Its economy, its history, its resources and its culture are all intrinsically linked to the string of mountains that rise like icy giants above the plains. Often, this daunting landscape is as much a hindrance as a benefit – development has been massively set back by the logistical problems of bringing roads, electricity, health care and education to remote mountain communities.
Nepalis divide the year into six, not four, seasons: Basanta (spring), Grisma (premonsoon heat), Barkha (monsoon), Sharad (post-monsoon), Hemanta (autumn) and Sheet (winter).
If there is one lesson that can be drawn from Nepal, it is that man underestimates the power of nature at his peril. Many of the natural disasters that blight Nepal year after year – floods, forest fires, droughts and landslides – are directly linked to human activity. Faced by environmental issues of this scale, you may feel that one person cannot make a difference, but the reality is that every traveller who carries a piece of litter downhill is making a genuine difference to the environment of the Himalaya.
See the Responsible Tourism chapter Click here for more ways you can help while travelling in Nepal.
THE LAND
Nepal is a small, landlocked strip of land, 800km long and 200km wide. However, it fits a lot of terrain into just 147,181 sq km. Heading north from the Indian border, the landscape rises from just 150m above sea level to 8850m at the tip of Mt Everest. Around 64% of the country is covered by mountains, yet almost half the population live on the flat plains of the Terai, which accounts for just 17% of the landmass of Nepal.
The Terai makes up only 17% of Nepal’s area but holds 50% of its population and 70% of its agricultural land.
This dramatic landscape provides a habitat for an incredible range of plants, animals and people – Nepal is home to 59 recognised tribes, who make up 37% of the total population. In Nepal, it is not just the flora and fauna that has adapted to life in this epic terrain. The Sherpas and other hill tribes have a unique physiology that enables them to carry more oxygen in their blood than people from the plains.
Geology
Imagine the space currently occupied by Nepal as an open expanse of water, and the Tibetan plateau as the coast. This was the situation until 60 million years ago, when the Indo-Australian plate collided with the Eurasian continent, bucking the earth’s crust up into mighty ridges and forming the mountains we now call the Himalaya.
For reasons that are not entirely clear, the official height of Everest in Nepal is 2m lower than the accepted height in the rest of the world.
The upheaval of mountains caused the temporary obstruction of rivers that once flowed unimpeded from Eurasia to the sea. Simultaneously, new rivers arose on the southern slopes of these young mountains as moist winds from the tropical seas to the south rose and precipitated. For the next 60 million years, the mountains moved up and rivers and glaciers cut downwards, creating the peaks and valleys seen across Nepal today.
The modern landscape of Nepal – a grid of four major mountain systems, incised by the north–south gorges of rivers – is not the final story. The Indo-Australian plate is still sliding under the Eurasian Himalaya at a rate of 27mm per year and pushing the Himalaya even higher. As fast as the mountains rise, they are being eroded by glaciers, rivers and landslides, and chipped away by earthquakes and the effects of cold and heat.
Nepal is still an active seismic zone. A huge earthquake caused devastation around the country in 1934 and a similar-sized quake today would cause unimaginable damage to the tall, densely packed and poorly constructed buildings that dominate the Kathmandu Valley.
MT EVEREST
Everest has gone by a number of different names over the years. The Survey of India christened the mountain ‘Peak XV’, but it was renamed Everest after Sir George Everest, the surveyor general of India in 1865. It was later discovered that the mountain already had a name – Sherpas call the peak Chomolungma, after the female guardian deity of the mountain, who rides a red tiger and is one of the five sisters of long life. There was no Nepali name for the mountain until 1956 when the historian Babu Ram Acharya invented the name Sagarmatha, meaning ‘head of the sky’.
Using triangulation from the plains of India, the Survey of India established the elevation of the summit of Everest at 8839m. In 1954, this was revised to 8848m using data from 12 different survey stations around the mountain. In 1999, a team sponsored by National Geographic used GPS data to produce a new elevation of 8850m, but in 2002, a Chinese team made measurements from the summit using ice radar and GPS systems and produced a height of 8844.43m.
So is Everest shrinking? Not exactly; the Chinese calculated the height of the bedrock of the mountain, without the accumulated snow and ice. In fact, Everest is still growing at a rate of 6mm a year as plate tectonics drives the Indian subcontinent underneath Eurasia. To complicate things, Nepal still prefers to use the old 8848m elevation.
Physiographic Regions
Nepal consists of several physiographic regions, or natural zones: the southern plains, the four mountain ranges, and the valleys and hills in between. Most people live in the fertile lowlands or on the sunny southern slopes of mountains. Above 4000m, the only residents are yak herders, who retreat into the valleys with the onset of winter.
The Kali Gandaki Valley between the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs is considered the world’s deepest gorge, with a vertical gain of 7km.
THE TERAI & CHURE HILLS
The only truly flat land in Nepal is the Terai (or Tarai), a patchwork of paddy fields, sal forests, tiny thatched villages and sprawling industrial cities. The vast expanse of the Gangetic plain extends for 40km into Nepal before the land rises to create the Chure Hills. With an average height of 1000m, this minor ridge runs the length of the country, separating the Terai from a second low-lying area called the inner Terai or the Dun.
MAHABHARAT RANGE
North of the inner Terai, the land rises again to form the Mahabharat Range, or the ‘Middle Hills’. These vary between 1500m and 2700m in height, and form the heartland of the inhabited highlands of Nepal. Locals raise rice, barley, millet, wheat, maize and other crops on cascades of terraced fields set among patches of tropical and temperate forest. These hills are cut by three major river systems: the Karnali, the Narayani and the Sapt Kosi.
Saligrams (fossilised squidlike ammonites) are found throughout the Himalaya and are regarded as symbols of Vishnu – they also provide clear proof that the Himalaya used to lie beneath the ancient Tethys Sea.
PAHAR ZONE
Between the Mahabharat Range and the Himalaya lies a broad, extensively cultivated belt called the Pahar zone. This includes the fertile valleys of Kathmandu, Banepa and Pokhara, which were once the beds of lakes, formed by trapped rivers. After the Terai, this is the most inhabited part of Nepal and the expanding human population is putting a massive strain on natural resources. Only a few areas of forest have escaped the ravages of firewood collectors.
The stunningly located Pokhara area, right at the foot of the Annapurna massif, is unique because there is no major barrier to the south to block the path of spring and monsoon rain clouds. As a result Pokhara receives an exceptionally high level of rainfall, limiting cultivation to below 2000m.
THE HIMALAYA
One-third of the total length of the Himalaya lies inside Nepal’s borders and the country claims 10 of the world’s 14 tallest mountains. The Himalayan range is broken up into groups of massifs divided by glaciers and rivers draining down from the Tibetan plateau.
Because of the southerly latitude (similar to that of Florida) and the reliable rainfall the mountains are cloaked in vegetation to a height of 3500m to 4000m. Humans mainly inhabit the areas below 2700m – from here to the tree line (around 3900m), the forests are fairly well preserved.
The Sanskrit word Himalaya means abode (alaya) of the snows (himal). There is no such thing as the Himalayas. To pronounce it correctly, as they do in the corridors of the Royal Geographical Society, emphasise the second syllable – him-aaar-liya, darling…
THE TRANS-HIMALAYA
North of the first ridge of the Himalaya is a high-altitude desert, similar to the Tibetan plateau. This area encompasses the arid valleys of Mustang, Manang and Dolpo, as well as the minor peaks of the Tibetan marginals. The moisture-laden clouds of the monsoon drop all their rain on the south side of the mountains, leaving the trans-Himalaya in permanent rain shadow. Surreal crags, spires and badlands eroded by the scouring action of the wind are characteristic of this bleak landscape.
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WILDLIFE
Nepal is a region of exceptional biodiversity, with a unique variety of landscapes and climatic conditions. The following is a guide to the species that travellers are likely to see – or would like to see. If you are a nature buff, it’s worth carrying a spotters’ guide; see the sidebars in this chapter for some suggestions.
Animals
The diverse environments of the Himalaya and the Middle Hills provide a home for a remarkable array of birds, reptiles, amphibians and mammals. However, many mammal and bird species are threatened by poaching and hunting. Your best chances for spotting wildlife are in national parks and conservation areas, or high in the mountains far away from human habitation.
SIGNATURE SPECIES
Nepal has a number of ‘signature species’ that every visitor wants to see. Unfortunately, these also tend to be the species most threatened by poaching and habitat loss. Opportunities to view the following animals are usually restricted to national parks, reserves and sparsely populated areas of western Nepal. For more on signature species see the boxed text.
There are estimated to be less than 500 surviving snow leopards, spread across a territory of 30,000 sq km, which could be one reason they are so rarely seen.
At the top of the food chain is the royal Bengal tiger (bagh in Nepali), which is solitary and territorial. Chitwan National Park and Bardia National Park in the Terai protect sufficient habitat to sustain viable breeding populations (Chitwan has around 110 tigers, Bardia 22). The main threat to tigers is poaching to supply skins for Tibetan traditional costumes and tiger parts for Chinese medicine.
The spotted leopard (chituwa) is more common than the tiger and a major threat to domestic livestock. Like the tiger, this nocturnal creature has been known to target humans when it is unable, through old age or illness, to hunt for its normal prey species. The endangered snow leopard is so rare that it is almost a legend, but there are thought to be 300 to 500 snow leopards surviving in the high Himalaya, particularly around Dolpo. Snow leopards are so elusive that many locals believe the animals have the power to vanish at will.
Found in the phanta (grass plains) of the Terai region, the one-horned rhinoceros (gaida) is the largest of the three Asian rhino species. Rhino populations plummeted due to poaching during the Maoist insurgency but they have recovered slightly since 2005 – today there are around 408 rhinos in Chitwan and smaller populations in Bardia National Park and Sukla Phanta Wildlife Reserve.
Soul of the Rhino, by Hemanta R Mishra, is an intriguing peek into the world of the one-horned Indian rhinoceros and the human beings who share its habitat.
The only wild Asian elephants (hathi) in Nepal are in the western part of the Terai and Chure Hills. However, herds of domesticated elephants are found at all the national parks in the Terai, where they carry tourists on wildlife-spotting safaris.
The predator most commonly seen in the hills is the Himalayan black bear. This large omnivore frequently raids crops on the edge of mountain villages. In the rare event of an attack by a bear, the best defence is to lie face down on the ground. All of Nepal’s bears are threatened by the trade in animal parts for Chinese medicine.
Perhaps the rarest animal of all is the endangered river dolphin. This mammalian predator is almost blind and hunts its way through the murky waters of lowland rivers using sonar. There are thought to be fewer than 100 dolphins left in Nepal, with the largest population living in the Karnali River.
International activists are campaigning to stop Nepal shipping rhesus macaque monkeys overseas to be used for animal experimentation. Neighbouring India banned the export of monkeys in 1977.
MONKEYS
Because of Hanuman, the monkey god from the Ramayana, monkeys are considered holy and are well protected in Nepal. You will often see troops of muscular rhesus macaques harassing tourists and pilgrims for food scraps at monuments and temples. These monkeys can be openly aggressive and they carry rabies, so appreciate them from a distance (and if that doesn’t work, carry a stick).
You may also spot the slender common langur, with its short grey fur and black face, in forested areas up to 3700m. This species is more gentle than the thuggish macaque but again, watch your bananas.
HERBIVORES
Deer are abundant in the lowlands, providing a food source for tigers, leopards and other predators. Prominent species include the sambar and the spotted deer, the main prey of the royal Bengal tiger.
In forests up to 2400m, you may hear the screamlike call of the muntjac (barking deer), the oldest species of deer on earth. At higher altitudes, watch for the pocked-sized musk deer, which stands just 50cm high at the shoulder. These animals have been severely depleted by hunting for the musk gland found in the abdomen of male deer.
In high mountain areas, look out for the Himalayan tahr, a shaggy mountain goat, and the blue sheep (naur in Tibetan, bharal in Nepali), which is genetically stranded somewhere between goats and sheep.
Nature Treks (www.nature-treks.com) offers organised walks with expert naturalists at Shivapuri National Park, Chitwan National Park, Bardia National Park and in the Langtang area.
SMALL MAMMALS
The boulder fields and forests of the Himalaya provide shelter for several small rodents. The pika (mouse-hare) is commonly spotted scurrying nervously between rocks on trekking trails. You must climb higher to the trans-Himalayan zone in western Nepal to see the Himalayan marmot, related to the American groundhog.
Various species of squirrels and chipmunks live in the forests, including rare flying squirrels, which glide through the canopy using extended flaps of skin between their legs. Noisy colonies of fruit bats can be spotted roosting in trees in the Terai and the Kathmandu Valley, particularly near the new Royal Palace in Kathmandu. Although these ‘flying foxes’ look quite fearsome, their diet consists entirely of fruit.
Nepal covers only 0.1% of the world’s surface area but is home to nearly 10% of the world’s species of birds, including 72 critically endangered species.
BIRDS
More than 850 bird species are known in Nepal and almost half of these can be spotted in the Kathmandu Valley. March to May is the main breeding season and the best time to spot birds. Resident bird numbers are augmented by migratory species, which arrive in the Terai in February and March en route from Siberia. The best places in Nepal for birdwatching are Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve and Chitwan National Park. The best spots in the Kathmandu Valley are Pulchowki Mountain, Nagarjun Forest Reserve and Shivapuri National Park.
Eight species of stork have been identified along the watercourses of the Terai, and demoiselle cranes fly down the Kali Gandaki and Dudh Kosi for the winter, before returning in spring to their Tibetan nesting grounds. The endangered sarus crane can be spotted in Bardia National Park and the privately funded Lumbini Crane Sanctuary near Lumbini.
Bird Conservation Nepal (www.birdlifenepal.org) is an excellent Nepali organisation based in Kathmandu that organises birdwatching trips and publishes books, birding checklists and a good quarterly newsletter.
Raptors or birds of prey of all sizes are found in Nepal. In the Kathmandu Valley and Terai, keep an eye out for the sweeping silhouettes of vultures and fork-tailed pariah kites circling ominously in the haze. In the mountains, watch for golden eagles and the huge Himalayan griffon and lammergeier.
There are six species of pheasant in Nepal, including the national bird, the danphe, also known as the Himalayan monal or impeyan pheasant. Females are a dull brown, while males are an iridescent rainbow of colours. In areas frequented by trekkers, these birds are often quite tame, though they will launch themselves downhill in a falling, erratic flight if disturbed.
Nepal hosts 17 species of cuckoo, which arrive in March, heralding the coming of spring. The call of the Indian cuckoo is likened to the Nepali phrase kaphal pakyo, meaning ‘the fruit of the box myrtle is ripe’. The call of the common hawk cuckoo sounds like the words ‘brain fever’ – or so it was described by British sahibs (gentlemen) as they lay sweating with malarial fevers.
Birds of Nepal, by Robert Fleming Sr, Robert Fleming Jr and Lain Singh Bangdel, is a field guide to Nepal’s many hundreds of bird species. Birds of Nepal, by Richard Grimmett and Carol Inskipp, is a comprehensive paperback with line drawings.
While trekking through forests, keep an eye out for members of the timalid family. The spiny babbler is Nepal’s only endemic species, and the black-capped sibia, with its constant prattle and ringing song, is frequently heard in wet temperate forests. In the Pokhara region, the Indian roller is conspicuous when it takes flight, flashing the iridescent turquoise on its wings. Local superstition has it that if someone about to embark on a journey sees a roller going their way it is a good omen.
Another colourful character is the hoopoe, which has a retractable crest, a long curved bill, eye-catching orange plumage, and black-and-white stripes on its wings. Nepal is also home to 30 species of flycatchers and 60 species of warblers, as well as bee-eaters, drongos, minivets, parakeets and sunbirds.
Around watercourses, look out for thrushes, such as the handsome white-capped river chat and the delightfully named plumbeous redstart. Scan the surrounding trees or electricity cables for the black-and-white pied kingfisher and the white-breasted kingfisher with its iridescent turquoise jacket.
DINNER AT THE ROTTING CARCASS
Three of Nepal’s nine species of vultures are critically endangered and thousands more birds die every year after scavenging dead cows that have been treated with the anti-inflammatory drug diclofenac. A new scheme to feed vultures with uncontaminated meat has yielded remarkable results. Nicknamed the ‘vulture restaurant’, the project has doubled the vulture population of Nawalparasi district in the western Terai in just two years. Plans are now afoot to open vulture bistros across the country to save these magnificent birds from extinction.
ENDANGERED SPECIES
You might think that the mountains and jungles would provide some protection for wildlife, but many of Nepal’s most famous animals are on the list of endangered species. In the mountains, time is running out for the snow leopard, clouded leopard, red panda, wild yak, musk deer, great Tibetan sheep and hispid hare. In the Terai, the Bengal tiger, Asian elephant, one-horned rhinoceros, Gaur bison, swamp deer, gharial crocodile and Gangetic dolphin are clinging on in the face of extinction.
The greatest threat to Nepal’s wildlife comes from hunting for food and from poaching to supply animal parts for Chinese medicine and Tibetan traditional costumes. In just one raid in 2005, the Nepali army seized five tiger skins, 36 leopard skins, 238 otter skins and 113kg of tiger and leopard bones, destined for sale in China and Tibet. International organisations such as the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF; www.wwf.org) are attempting to ensure the preservation of these wonderful, endangered animals.
Different species of crows have adapted to different altitudes. The yellow-billed blue magpie and Himalayan tree pie are commonly seen in the temperate zone. Above the tree line, red- and yellow-billed choughs gather in flocks, particularly in areas frequented by humans. In the trans-Himalayan region you will also see the menacing black raven, which scours the valleys looking for scavenging opportunities.
Nepal Nature (www.nepalnature.com) is a tour company run by Nepali conservationists and nature experts. It runs birdwatching tours to Shivapuri National Park and crane sanctuaries around Lumbini.
REPTILES & AMBHIBIANS
As well as hundreds of species of frogs and lizards, Nepal is home to two indigenous species of crocodile. The endangered gharial inhabits rivers, hunting for fish with an elongated snout lined with sharp teeth – fossils of similar crocodiles have been found that date back 100 million years. The gharial was hunted to the brink of extinction, but populations have recovered since the establishment of a hatchery in Chitwan.
The stocky marsh mugger prefers stagnant water and is omnivorous, feeding on anything within reach, including people. In fact, the Western word ‘mugger’ comes from the Hindi/Nepali name for this skulking predator. Many species of snake survive in the Terai, including cobras, vipers and kraits; travellers rarely encounter these animals, but keep an eye out for pythons in Nepal’s national parks.
Plants
And the Wildest dreams of Kew are but the facts of Kathmandu
Rudyard Kipling
Himalayan Flowers & Trees, by Dorothy Mierow and Tirtha Bahadur Shrestha, is the best available field guide to the plants of Nepal.
There are about 6500 known species of trees, shrubs and wildflowers in Nepal, but perhaps the most famous is Rhododendron arboreum (lali gurans in Nepali), the national flower of Nepal. It might better be described as a tree, reaching heights of 18m and forming whole forests in the Himalaya region. More than 30 other species of rhododendrons are found in the foothills of the Himalaya and the rhododendron forests burst into flower in March and April, painting the landscape in swathes of white, pink and red.
The best time to see the wildflowers of the Himalaya in bloom is during the monsoon, when the trails are muddy and the skies overcast. The views may be obscured but the ground underfoot will be a carpet of mints, scrophs, buttercups, cinquefoils, polygonums, ephedras, cotoneasters, saxifrages and primulas.
Many of the alpine species found above the tree line bear flowers in autumn, including irises, gentians, anemones and the downy-petalled edelweiss. In subtropical and lower temperate areas, look for aree pink luculia, mauve osbeckia and yellow St John’s wort, as well as flowering cherry trees. Marigolds are grown in gardens and plantations across Nepal to provide the garlands offered at Hindu temples. In the Kathmandu Valley, silky oak with its spring golden inflorescence, and bottlebrush and eucalyptus, are planted as ornamentals.
Bis Hajaar Tal (literally ‘20,000 lakes’) in Chitwan National Park and the Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve are both Ramsar sites (www.ramsar.org), designated as wetlands of international importance.
In the foothills of the Himalaya, as well as in the plains, look for the magnificent mushrooming canopies of banyan and pipal trees, which often form the focal point of villages. The pipal tree has a special religious significance in Nepal – the Buddha gained enlightenment under a pipal tree and Hindus revere various species of pipals as symbols of Vishnu and Hanuman.
Sal, a broad-leaved, semideciduous hardwood, dominates the low-lying tropical forests of the Terai. Sal leaves are used as disposable plates and the wood is used for construction. On the flat plains, many areas are covered by phanta – this giant grass can grow to 2.5m high and is used by villagers for thatching.
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NATIONAL PARKS & CONSERVATION AREAS
Nepal’s first national park was established in 1973 at Chitwan National Park in the Terai. There are now nine national parks, three wildlife reserves, three conservation areas and, somewhat incongruously, one hunting reserve, protecting 18% of the land in Nepal. Entry fees apply for all the national parks and reserves, including conserved areas on trekking routes in the mountains – see the National Parks & Conservation Areas boxed text Click here for a breakdown.
Nepal’s national parks and conservation areas are described in detail at www.visitnepal.com/nepal_information/nepalparks.php.
The main agency overseeing national parks and conservation areas is the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation (Map; www.dnpwc.gov.np). However, the last few years have seen a shift in the management of protected areas away from the Nepali government to international nongovernmental organisations (NGOs). The National Trust for Nature Conservation (www.ntnc.org.np), formerly the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation, runs the Annapurna Conservation Area Project and Manaslu Conservation Area, and the Mountain Institute (www.mountain.org) runs a number of conservation projects in the Makalu-Barun and Kanchenjunga areas.
The first protected areas were imposed by the government with little partnership with locals and initially without their cooperation. Recent initiatives have concentrated on educating local people and accommodating their needs, rather than evicting them completely from the land.
For more on Nepal’s environment check out www.iucnnepal.org and www.wwfnepal.org.
The community forest model has been particularly successful in Nepal – many protected areas are surrounded by a buffer zone of community-owned forests, whose owners harvest natural resources and thus have a stake in their continued existence. See the website of the Federation of Community Forest Users (www.fecofun.org) for more information.
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ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES
The ecology of Nepal is fragile and a rapidly growing population is constantly adding to the pressure on the environment. Much of the land between the Himalaya and the Terai has been vigorously modified by humans to provide space for crops, animals and houses. Forests have been cleared, wildlife populations depleted and roads have eaten into valleys that were previously accessible only on foot. As a result, Shangri La is hovering on the edge of environmental collapse.
NATIONAL PARKS & CONSERVATION AREAS
Population growth is the biggest issue facing the environment in Nepal. More people need more land for agriculture and more natural resources for building, heating and cooking. The population of Nepal is increasing at a rate of 2.1% every year and tourism is providing a financial incentive for the settlement of previously uninhabited mountain areas.
There have also been some environmental successes in Nepal. Foreign and Nepali NGOs have provided solar panels, biogas and kerosene powered stoves and parabolic solar heaters for thousands of farms, trekking lodges, schools and monasteries across Nepal.
Pressure cookers make an unlikely contribution to the environment in Nepal – water boils below 100°C at altitude, and cooks can reduce cooking times, and therefore firewood consumption, by cooking in a pressurised pot.
Deforestation
Almost 80% of Nepali citizens rely on fuel wood for heating and cooking, particularly in the mountains, leading to massive problems with deforestation. Nepal has lost more than 70% of its forest cover in modern times and travellers are contributing to the problem by increasing the demand for firewood in mountain areas.
As well as robbing native species of their natural habitat, deforestation drives animals directly into conflict with human beings and the loss of tree cover is a major contributing factor to the landslides that scar the valleys of the Himalaya after every monsoon. Many locals were killed in severe landslides at Khobang in eastern Nepal in 2002 and in Mustang in 2006.
It’s not all doom and gloom though – in recent years, a number of community forests have been established on the boundaries of national parks. The forests are communally owned and the sustainable harvest of timber and other natural resources provides an economic alternative to poaching and resource gathering inside the parks.
More than 30% of the world’s total one-horned rhino population lives in Nepal’s Chitwan National Park. Frighteningly, the population of rhinos at Chitwan dropped by 30% from 2000 to 2005 due to poaching.
Poaching
Nepal’s 10-year Maoist insurgency did not only affect human beings. Soldiers were withdrawn from national park checkpoints, leading to a massive upsurge in poaching. Nepal’s rhino population fell by 30% between 2000 and 2005 and elephants, tigers, leopards and other endangered species were also targeted.
The main engines driving poaching are the trade in animal parts for Chinese medicine and the trade in animal pelts to Tibet for the manufacture of traditional costumes known as chubas. Travellers can avoid contributing to the problem by rejecting souvenirs made from animal products – Click here for more information.
Hydroelectricity
On the face of things, harnessing the power of Nepal’s rivers to create electricity sounds like a win-win situation, but the environmental impact of building new hydroelectric plants can be devastating. Entire valleys are flooded to create new reservoirs and most of the energy is diverted to the overpopulated Kathmandu Valley or exported to China and India.
USEFUL ENVIRONMENTAL ORGANISATIONS
Contact the following organisations for more information on environmental issues in Nepal:
- Bird Conservation Nepal (www.birdlifenepal.org)
- Himalayan Nature (www.himalayannature.org)
- International Centre for Integrated Mountain Development (www.icimod.org)
- National Trust for Nature Conservation (www.ntnc.org.np)
- Resources Himalaya (www.resourceshimalaya.org)
- Wildlife Conservation Nepal (www.wcn.org.np)
- World Conservation Union (www.iucnnepal.org)
- World Wildlife Fund Nepal (www.wwfnepal.org)
FLOODING IN THE HIMALAYA
Every year, the Terai faces severe flooding problems because of increased drainage from the mountains caused by the monsoon rains. In recent years, these problems have been exacerbated by deforestation, which increases drainage from mountain slopes, and by high rainfall, linked to climate change. In August 2008, unusually heavy rainfall caused the Sapt Kosi River to burst its banks near Loki, displacing millions of people in Nepal and Bihar (Click here).
In the mountains, the flood risk comes from a different source. Rising global temperatures are melting the glaciers that snake down from the Himalaya, swelling glacial lakes to dangerous levels.
In 1985, a natural dam collapsed in the Thame Valley, releasing the trapped waters of the Dig Tsho lake and sending devastating floods roaring along the Dudh Kosi Valley.
Scientists are now watching the Imja Tsho in the Chhukung Valley with alarm. Since 1960, the lake has grown by 35 million cu metres – when it ruptures, experts are predicting a ‘vertical tsunami’ that will affect one of the most heavily populated and heavily trekked parts of the Himalaya.
As well as displacing local people and damaging the local environment, large hydro schemes affect the flow of water downstream, disrupting the passage of nutrient-rich silt to agricultural land in the plains. Concerns about the huge new hydroelectric plants on the Kali Gandaki and West Seti Rivers have been exacerbated by the 2008 floods in Nepal.
For information on alternative energy projects in Nepal, visit the websites of the Centre for Rural Technology (www.crtnepal.org), the Foundation for Sustainable Technologies (www.fost-nepal.org) and Drokpa (www.drokpa.org).
Tourism
Tourism has brought health care, education, electricity and wealth to some of the most remote, isolated communities on earth, but it has also had a massive impact on the local environment.
Forests are being cleared at an unprecedented rate to provide timber for the construction of new lodges and fuel for cooking and heating, and trekkers contribute massively to the build-up of litter and the erosion of mountain trails.
You can read the government take on the controversy over hydroelectricity on the website of the West Seti Hydro project (www.wsh.com.np).
Even the apparent benefits of tourism can have environmental implications – the wealth that tourism has brought to villages in the Himalaya has allowed many farmers to increase the size of their herds of goats, cows and yaks, leading to yet more deforestation as woodland is cleared to provide temporary pastures.
Himal South Asia (www.himalmag.com) is a bimonthly magazine mainly devoted to development and environmental issues. It’s an excellent publication with top-class contributors.
Water Supplies
Despite the natural abundance of water, water shortages are another chronic problem in Nepal, particularly in the Kathmandu Valley. Where water is available, it is often contaminated with heavy metals, industrial chemicals, bacteria and human waste. In Kathmandu, the holy Bagmati River has become one of the most polluted rivers on earth; www.friendsofthebagmati.org.np for more on this sorry story.
In the Terai, one of the biggest problems is arsenic poisoning from contaminated drinking water. Up to 1.4 million people are thought to be at risk from this deadly toxin, which is drawn into wells and reservoirs from contaminated aquifers.
In the mountains, the problem is often too much, rather than too little water – see the boxed text, above.
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Outdoor Activities
BUNGEE JUMPING
CANYONING
PARAGLIDING
ROCK CLIMBING
MARATHONS
TREKKING
MOUNTAIN BIKING
RAFTING & KAYAKING
CLIMBING & TREKKING PEAKS
Despite what Kiwis will tell you, Nepal is probably the world’s greatest outdoors destination. The towering mountains offer some of the Himalaya’s most awe-inspiring walking but there’s also some spectacular mountain biking, and its mighty mountain rivers fuel some of the best white-water rafting you’ll find anywhere. An added bonus is that all this fun comes in at less than half the price of places like the US or New Zealand. For an added thrill try bungee jumping 160m into a Himalayan gorge or abseiling into a thundering 45m waterfall. Oh, and did we mention that Pokhara is one of the best paragliding spots in the world? Pack a spare pair of underpants – you’re going to need them.
As if the tallest bungee in Asia wasn’t enough, the fiendish minds at the Last Resort have devised the ‘swing’, a stomach-loosening eight-second free fall, followed by a Tarzanlike swing and then three or four pendulum swings back up and then down the length of the gorge. We feel ill just writing about it.
BUNGEE JUMPING
The ‘ultimate bungee’ straddles a mighty 160m drop into the gorge of the Bhote Kosi at the Last Resort, just 12km from the Tibetan border. It’s one of the world’s longest bungee jumps (higher than the highest bungee in New Zealand) and the roars and squeals of free-falling tourists echo up and down the valley for miles.
The swing or bungee costs US$80 from Kathmandu (including return transport from Kathmandu and lunch) or US$70 if you are already up at the Last Resort. Extra jumps cost US$25, or add on a swing to a bungee for an extra US$20. Every fourth jump is free. For US$15 you can reveal your inner wisdom and travel up to watch someone else jump and enjoy the looks on everyone else’s faces when they catch their first glimpse of how deep a 160m gorge really is. The price includes whatever lunch you can muster, wisely served up after the jump.
Visit the office of the Last Resort (Map; 01-4439525; www.tlrnepal.com) in Kathmandu for details of current packages. A two-day bungee and rafting package with overnight accommodation and four meals and transport costs around US$130.
HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU HAVE?
- One day Bungee jump at the Last Resort (above); paraglide at Sarangkot ; take a mountain flight Click here.
- Two days Go canyoning at Borderlands or the Last Resort ; raft the Bhote Kosi or Trisuli River ; trek Nagarkot to Sundarijal.
- Three days Mountain bike Kathmandu–Dhulikhel–Namobuddha–Lakuri Bhanjyang ; raft the Kali Gandaki.
- Four days Learn to kayak at a kayak clinic Click here; do a canyoning and Bhote Kosi rafting combo Click here; raft the Kali Gandaki or Marsyangdi ; go to Chitwan from Kathmandu and then take a safari excursion in the park Click here; experience the views on the Annapurna Skyline Trek (Royal Trek; ).
- Six days Trek from Borderlands or the Last Resort to the Tibetan border Click here; hike the Tamang Heritage Trail near Langtang ; complete the Ghorepani to Ghandruk loop trek Click here.
- Seven days Fly in to Lukla then trek to Thame, Namche Bazaar and Tengboche on the Everest Base Camp Trek ; walk the Langtang Valley trek Click here.
- Eight days Trek the Helambu trek Click here.
- Nine days Raft the Sun Kosi River.
- 10 days Do a Karnali River trip Click here.
- 15 days Trek up to Everest Base Camp with flights in and out of Lukla.
- 18 days Complete the Annapurna Circuit.
- 21 days Combine the Everest Base Camp and Gokyo treks Click here.
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CANYONING
This exciting sport is a wild combination of rappelling/abseiling, climbing, sliding and swimming that has been pioneered in the canyons and waterfalls near the Last Resort and Borderlands (Click here).
Both companies run two-day canyoning trips for about US$100, or you can combine two days canyoning with a two-day Bhote Kosi rafting trip for US$200 (half this for one day’s canyoning and one day’s rafting). On day one you drive up from Kathmandu, have lunch, get some basic abseiling training and then practise on nearby cascades. Day two involves a trip out to more exciting falls, with a maximum abseil of up to 45m. Most canyons involve a short hike to get there.
The Last Resort uses Panglong canyon early in the season and to train novices. After December the action moves to higher and more exciting canyons such as Kanglang, Kahule and Bhukute (a 60m drop), once the water flow has subsided to safe levels. Canyoning is not possible during the monsoon.
Borderlands uses Old and New Jombo canyons. Old Jombo (also called Big Jombo) is the more challenging of the two (only possible from late November) and involves a flying fox cable ride across the Bhote Kosi River and then a 30-minute walk up to the first of four waterfalls and a short water slide.
It’s best to bring a pair of closed-toe shoes that can get wet as these are better than sandals. Hiking shoes, a water bottle and bathing suits are also required and a waterproof camera is a real bonus. After November wetsuits are a must and are provided.
The Nepal Open Paragliding Championships are held every year over five days in January in Sarangkot and attract competitors from around the world.
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PARAGLIDING
Pokhara is the place to head for if you want to hurl yourself off a cliff at nearby Sarangkot and glide in majestic silence above the Himalaya, either on a tandem paragliding flight or solo after a multiday course. November, December and January bring perfect flying conditions and stunning views of Phewa Tal and the Himalayan peaks that have inspired gliders to rank Sarangkot as one of the best paragliding spots in the world.
Frontiers Paragliding ( 061-461706, 9804125096; www.nepal-paragliding.com) is the leading company. It offers short tandem flights (20 to 30 minutes, €70) in the morning and late afternoon, longer distance cross-country flights (60 to 90 minutes, €100) that take advantage of midday thermals and even multiday ‘treks’ that journey from valley to valley. For something a lot scarier try the 20-minute acrobatic tandem flights. If you want to learn to fly yourself, a nine-day paragliding course costs €900. Most flights start with a short jeep ride up to Sarangkot.
Nepa Maps and Himalayan Maphouse produce a fairly useful map, Paragliding the Annapurna Region.
Paragliding pioneer Sunrise Paragliding (Map; 061-463174; www.sunrise-paragliding.com; 8am-9pm) offers identical flights and prices.
In conjunction with Frontiers, Himalayan Frontiers (Map; www.himalayanfrontiers.co.uk, www.parahawking.com) has pioneered parahawking, an intriguing mix of paragliding and hawking that uses trained steppe eagles and pariah kites to lead gliders to the best thermals, enabling them to glider higher and further. You can experience this glorious blending of man and nature on a tandem flight or learn on a multiday parahawking course (November to February). Glider and ultralight flights are also available, as are falconry lessons. Less brave souls can see the avian guides at their roost at Maya Devi Village on the northern shore of Phewa Tal.
The Nepali-Swiss operation Blue Sky Paragliding ( 61-463747; www.paragliding-nepal.com) offers similar flights, courses and multiday ‘paratrekking’. See the website for course dates. In Kathmandu you can contact it through the Hotel Northfield ( 01-470078; www.hotelnorthfield.com; Thamel).
ALL FOR THE SAKE OF RESEARCH Bradley Mayhew
‘Its the most exciting thing you can do in a day from Kathmandu’ was what Megh Ale told me when I mentioned I might try some canyoning up at the Borderlands Resort. Sure, I thought, it’ll be fun but how exciting can a day trip from the capital really be?
The first day was pretty relaxed, meeting my fellow canyoners (experienced abseilers, just what the insecure novice in me needed…), learning how to abseil down a large boulder (I had to stifle a yawn) and then some small cascades. This is nice, I thought, but not quite the underpants-soiling adrenalin Megh had promised me.
So the next day, as I stood astride a small stream and shuffled backwards towards a drop-off, it came as a bit of a shock to see the water fall away into vertical nothingness. It takes a certain leap of faith to trust all your weight to a harness but I eventually learned that the key to canyoning is to lean right back, with your weight all on the rope ‘brake’, in order to position your legs at 90 degrees from the rock face. This stops your legs slipping quite so much on the mossy, water-polished rock face.
The challenge of the first drop was to avoid slipping into the waterfall just to the side. The second involved a backwards jump of about 5m into a churning pool of uncertain depth. It took several ‘one, two, THREE!’s from the guides and some considerable swearing on my part before I let myself fall backwards into the narrow rock pool.
The scariest thing about the third descent was that I couldn’t see the bottom of the drop (and there’s nothing worse than the thousand-foot gorge of my imagination). After about 10m of descent, the rock overhang meant I had to lower myself down into mid-air, dangling like bait on a hook.
That freaked me out a bit but it wasn’t until the last fall, as I stood astride Big Jombo (the name of the waterfall, unfortunately), that the fear really hit me like, well, a 50-tonne waterfall. This was a 45m drop and when you are leaning back over the slippery lip of a waterfall, that’s a BIG drop! Even the instructors were looking a bit nervous… There was no way out, no way back up the last waterfall. The only option was to go down Big Jombo (again, let’s be clear, the waterfall).
As I lowered myself down the cliff the angle between the rope and the waterfall began to narrow until there was only one harrowing choice; straddle the waterfall or enter it. Apparently there was one other option – slip on some wet moss, swing into the full force of the water and scream like a girl. I chose the latter. Actually, there was no chance of screaming because the full crashing force of the icy water made it hard to breathe. I tried to keep calm and lower myself down the chute but at one point I remember thinking ‘Holy crap! This is too much pressure, I’m going to fall – and I don’t even know how far it is!’.
After a serious pummelling, I felt a tug on the rope and swung out of the waterfall, scrambling on the rock face like Buster Keaton in a wetsuit. I stood there shaking for a while, before lowering myself down the last 10m. ‘Jesus!’ I shouted at the main guide. ‘That was frickin’ GREAT!! Now that I can recommend in a guidebook!’.
Avia Club Nepal (Map; 061-465944; www.aviaclubnepal.com; Lakeside, Pokhara) operates microlight flights from Pokhara between October and May. The 15-/30-/60-minute flights cost around US$65/112/198.
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ROCK CLIMBING
If you need to polish up or learn some climbing skills before heading off into the mountains, try the Pasang Lhamu Climbing Wall (Map; 01-4370742; www.pasanglhamu.org; 10am-5.30pm) on the outskirts of Kathmandu. A day’s membership costs Rs 350 and equipment can be rented for Rs 100. Week-long climbing courses are available (Rs 4799). Click here for details.
The Shreeban Nature Camp (www.shreeban.com.np) in Dhading, on the road from Kathmandu to Pokhara, offers climbing from December onwards on the roped rock wall behind its camp. Click here.
Borderlands offers a day’s climbing tuition at Nagarjun just outside Kathmandu for US$50, including lunch. The Last Resort offers a brief introduction to rock climbing at its resort for US$13.
The Nepal Mountaineering Association (Map; 01-4434525; www.nepalmountaineering.org; Naxal, Kathmandu) runs month-long climbing courses in Manang or Langtang every August (introductory) and December (advanced). These are really aimed at Nepali guides but also accept foreigners for a fee of US$2000. It also runs occasional rock-climbing courses in Nagarjun.
For mountaineering and climbing on Nepal’s trekking peaks Click here.
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MARATHONS
The annual Kathmandu International Marathon (www.nepalmarathon.com) attracts over 6000 runners in September, with courses ranging from 5km to 42km. Registration costs US$30 for foreigners. Amazingly, the police hold back Kathmandu’s revving traffic for a full five hours to let the race take place.
As if a normal marathon wasn’t enough, several marathons are held in the Everest region at an altitude of over 5000m. Participants get to enjoy a two-week acclimatisation trek to base camp, before running all the way back to Namche Bazaar in around five hours.
For details on elephant-back jungle safaris in Chitwan National Park Click here, in Bardia National Park Click here and in Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve Click here.
The annual Tenzing Hillary Everest Marathon (www.everestmarathon.com) on 29 May commemorates the first ascent of Mt Everest on 29 May 1953 with the world’s highest marathon (42km), starting at Everest Base Camp. The similar Everest Marathon (www.everestmarathon.org.uk) is run every other November (next in 2009) from Gorak Shep to Namche Bazaar, to raise money for charities working in Nepal.
If those don’t sound challenging enough, go for psychological testing and then consider the annual Annapurna Mandala Trail, a nine-day, 340km foot race from Annapurna Base Camp to Jomsom, over the 5400m Thorung La and remote Tilicho Lake. Alternatively, consider the Everest Lafuma Sky Race, a 10-stage, 250km race from Lukla and back over three 5000m-plus passes.
The even crazier Himal Race started in 2002 as a 955km, 22-day run from Annapurna to Everest Base Camp. It was put on hold for a few years, due to a temporary bout of sanity, but competitors returned with a vengeance in 2007, running from Kathmandu to Dolpo (!), and it is scheduled again for 2010, this time routing 1000km from Kanchenjunga Base Camp to Kathmandu in 23 days. The races are organised by extreme runner Bruno Poirier and Nepali company Base Camp Trekking (www.basecamptrek.com). They all clearly need help.
The League of Adventurists International (http://rickshawrun.theadventurists.com) operates an annual Rickshaw Run, a two-week dash across the subcontinent in a 147cc three-wheeled autorickshaw. The 2008 itinerary traversed Nepal and future trips may do so again.
The madness continues. Extreme World Challenges (www.extremeworldchallenges.com) is currently planning the world’s highest triathlon at Tilicho Lake in the Annapurna region, as well as a 150km duathlon to Mt Everest called the ‘Sweaty Yeti’, scheduled for 2010.
For something a bit more relaxed, the Nepal branch of Hash House Harriers (www.aponarch.com/hhhh) meets for a run every Saturday afternoon. Check the website for details.
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TREKKING
Nepal is the world’s greatest trekking destination, even (and perhaps especially) if the only camping you do at home is lip-synching to Kylie Minogue and Queen songs (we know you do it!). For an overview of the most popular multiday teahouse treks, see the Trekking chapter, Click here.
Short Treks & Day Hikes
If you don’t have time for a big trek, there are several shorter treks which give you a taste of life on Nepal’s trails – see the boxed text. In particular, there are several short treks from Pokhara in the southern foothills of the Annapurnas (Click here), or you could easily cobble together a trek of several days around the rim of the Kathmandu Valley.
You can also throw in a couple of flights here and there to speed up the trekking process. As an example, fly in to Jomsom, overnight in Marpha (to aid acclimatisation) and take a few days to hike to the surrounding villages of Kagbeni and Muktinath before flying back to Pokhara for a four- or five-day trip.
There are also plenty of great day hikes around Nepal, particularly around Bandipur, Tansen and Pokhara. We have detailed many of these throughout this chapter.
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MOUNTAIN BIKING
Strong wheels, knobbly tyres, a soft padded seat and 17 more gears than the average Nepali bike – the mountain bike is an ideal, go anywhere, versatile machine for exploring Nepal. These attributes make it possible to escape sealed roads, and to ride tracks and ancient walking trails to remote, rarely visited areas of the country. Importantly, they allow independent travel – you can stop whenever you like – and they liberate you from crowded buses and claustrophobic taxis.
For information on some of the golfing opportunities in Nepal Click here.
Nepal’s tremendously diverse terrain and its many tracks and trails are ideal for mountain biking. In recent years Nepal has rapidly gained recognition for the biking adventures it offers – from easy village trails in the Kathmandu Valley to challenging mountain roads that climb thousands of metres to reach spectacular viewpoints, followed by unforgettable, exhilarating descents. For the adventurous there are large areas of the country still to be explored by mountain bike.
The Kathmandu Valley offers the best and most consistent biking in Nepal, with a vast network of tracks, trails and backroads. A mountain bike really allows you to get off the beaten track and discover idyllic Newari villages that have preserved their traditional lifestyle. Even today it’s possible to cycle into villages in the Kathmandu Valley that have rarely seen a visitor on a foreign bicycle. Each year more roads are developing, opening trails to destinations that were previously accessible only on foot.
Many trails are narrow, century-old walkways that are not shown on maps, so you need a good sense of direction when venturing out without a guide. To go unguided entails some risks, and you should learn a few important words of Nepali to assist in seeking directions. It’s also important to know the name of the next village you wish to reach.
The Yak Attack is a six-day, 240km mountain-bike race around the Annapurna Circuit, including over the 5416m Thorung La. The 13-day trip costs £1400; www.yak-attack.co.uk for details.
Transporting Your Bicycle
If you plan to do a mountain-biking trip of more than a day or two it may be a good idea to bring your own bicycle from home. Your bicycle can be carried as part of your baggage allowance on international flights. You are required to deflate the tyres, turn the handlebars parallel with the frame and remove the pedals. Passage through Nepali customs is quite simple once you reassure airport officers that it is ‘your’ bicycle and it will also be returning with you, though this requirement is never enforced.
On most domestic flights if you pack your bicycle correctly, removing wheels and pedals, it is possible to load it in the cargo hold. Check with the airline first.
Local buses are useful if you wish to avoid some of the routes that carry heavy traffic. You can place your bicycle on the roof for an additional charge (Rs 50 to Rs 100 depending on the length of the journey and the bus company). If you’re lucky, rope may be available and the luggage boy will assist you. Make sure the bicycle is held securely to cope with the rough roads and that it’s lying as flat as possible to prevent it catching low wires or tree branches. Unless you travel with foam padding it is hard to avoid the scratches to the frame. Supervise its loading and protect the rear derailleur from being damaged. Keep in mind that more baggage is likely to be loaded on top once you’re inside. A lock and chain is also a wise investment.
Equipment
Most of the bicycles you can hire in Nepal are low-quality Indian so-called mountain bikes, not suitable for the rigours of trail riding. The better operators like Himalayan Mountain Bikes or Dawn Till Dusk rent high-quality front-shock, 18-gear mountain bikes for around US$10 per day, with discounts for a week’s hire. Cheaper companies offer battered front-suspension bikes for Rs 450, with discounts for a week’s hire. The better rental shops can supply helmets and other equipment.
The Trans Himalayan Mountain Bike Race is a 1000km race from Lhasa to Kathmandu via Everest Base Camp that runs most years – contact Himalayan Marathons (www.everestmarathon.com/bikerace) for details.
If you bring your own bicycle it is essential to bring tools and spare parts, as these are largely unavailable outside of Kathmandu. Established mountain-bike tour operators have mechanics, workshops and a full range of bicycle tools at their offices in Kathmandu. Dawn Till Dusk also has a separate repair workshop near Kilroy’s restaurant in Thamel (Map).
Although this is not a complete list, a few items that may be worth considering bringing with you:
- bicycle bell
- cycling gloves, tops and padded shorts (or even your own seat)
- energy bars and electrolyte water additives
- face mask and gloves
- fleece top for evenings and windbreaker
- helmet
- lightweight clothing (eg Coolmax or other wicking materials)
- medium-sized money bag for valuables
- minipump
- spare parts (including inner tubes)
- stiff-soled shoes that suit riding and walking
- sun protection and sunglasses
- water bottles or hydration system (eg CamelBak)
Road Conditions
Traffic generally travels on the left-hand side, though it’s not uncommon to find a vehicle approaching you head-on or even on the wrong side of the road. In practice, smaller vehicles give way to larger ones, and bicycles are definitely at the bottom of the hierarchy. Nepali roads carry a vast array of vehicles: buses, motorcycles, cars, trucks, tractors, holy cows, wheelbarrows, dogs, wandering children and chickens, all moving at different speeds and in different directions.
The centre of Kathmandu is a particularly unpleasant place to ride because of pollution, heavy traffic and the increasingly reckless behaviour of young motorcyclists.
Extreme care should be taken near villages as young children play on the trails and roads. The onus seems to fall on the approaching vehicle to avoid an incident.
A good bicycle helmet is a sensible accessory, and you should ride with your fingers continually poised on the rear brake lever.
A few intrepid mountain bikers have taken bicycles into trekking areas hoping to find great riding but these areas are generally not suitable for mountain biking and you have to carry your bicycle for at least 80% of the time. Trails are unreliable, and are subject to frequent rock falls. In addition, there are always trekkers, porters and local people clogging up the trails. Sagarmatha National Park doesn’t allow mountain bikes. Courtesy and care on the trails should be a high priority when biking.
Trail Etiquette
Arriving in a new country for a short time where social and cultural values are vastly different from those of your home country does not allow much time to gain an appreciation of these matters. So consider a few pointers to help you develop respect and understanding. For more information, Click here.
CLOTHING
Tight-fitting lycra bicycle clothing might be functional, but is a shock to locals, who maintain a very modest approach to dressing. Such clothing is embarrassing and also offensive to Nepalis.
A simple way to overcome this is by wearing a pair of comfortable shorts and a T-shirt over your bicycle gear. This is especially applicable to female bicyclists, as women in Nepal generally dress conservatively.
The most detailed Kathmandu Valley map is commonly referred to as the ‘German map’ (also Schneider and Nelles Verlag), and is widely available in Kathmandu.
SAFETY
Trails are often filled with locals going about their daily work. A small bell attached to your handlebars and used as a warning of your approach, reducing your speed, and a friendly call or two of ‘cycle ioh!’ (cycle coming!) go a long way in keeping everyone on the trails happy and safe. Children love the novelty of the bicycles, the fancy helmets, the colours and the strange clothing, and will come running from all directions to greet you. They also love to grab hold of the back of your bicycle and run with you. You need to maintain a watchful eye so no one gets hurt.
Guided Tours
A small number of Nepali companies offer guided mountain-bike trips. They provide high-quality bicycles, local and Western guides, helmets and all the necessary equipment. There is usually a minimum of four bicyclists per trip, although for shorter tours two is often sufficient. For the shorter tours (two to three days) vehicle support is not required, while for longer tours vehicles are provided at an extra cost.
When it comes to caring for the environment, the guidelines that apply to trekkers also apply to mountain bikers. For more detailed information, Click here.
Local group tours range from US$25 to US$35 for a simple day trip, such as the loop routes north from Kathmandu to Tinpiple, Tokha and Budhanilkantha; or south to the traditional village of Bungamati.
A downhill day trip with vehicle support costs around US$55 per person. Options include driving to Nagarkot and riding down to Sankhu and Bodhnath or Bhaktapur, or driving to Kakani and taking the Scar Rd down. Dawn Till Dusk offers exhilarating downhill runs from the top of Phulchowki and Nagarjun peaks.
Multiday trips around the Kathmandu Valley cost around US$45 per day without vehicle backup, or US$65 with vehicle support and range from two to 10 days. Prices include bike hire, a guide, hotel accommodation and meals.
A few companies have recently started operating trips down the Kali Gandaki Valley, along the new unpaved road (and former trek route). Tours take around a week, with overnights in Ghasa, Tatopani, Beni and Pokhara, plus two days in Muktinath and Jomsom. An all-inclusive tour with flights and guide costs around US$1000, or you can organise a guide and bike only for around US$400. A few die-hards even attempt the full Annapurna Circuit (Click here), though even the hardiest biker ends up carrying their bike 70% of the time on the Manang side.
The following routes rank among the most popular organised itineraries:
- Budhanilkantha–Chisopani–Nagarkot and back
- Nagarkot–Kathmandu downhill (overnight)
- Kathmandu to Chitwan National Park via Daman and Hetauda; the most interesting route leads via the backroads west of Dakshinkali
- Bhaktapur–Dhulikhel–Namobuddha–Panauti (three days)
- Nagarkot–Dhulikhel–Panauti–Lakuri Bhanjyang–Sisneri (three days)
- Tibet border (four days)
- Jomsom to Pokhara (nine days)
Nepa Maps and Himalayan Maphouse (www.himalayan-maphouse.com) produce the useful maps Mountain Biking the Kathmandu Valley and Biking around Annapurna, though they aren’t to be relied on completely.
TOUR COMPANIES
The following companies have good-quality imported mountain bikes that can also be hired independently of a tour. Any others fall a long way back in standards and safety.
- Bike Nepal (Map; 01-4240633; www.bikenepal.com; Thamel, Kathmandu) Day trips US$25. Located next to Adrenaline Rush.
- Dawn Till Dusk (Map; 01-4700286, 4215046; www.nepalbiking.com; JP School Rd, Thamel, Kathmandu) Contact Chhimi Gurung. Local tours, rentals and servicing at the Kathmandu Guest House office; for bike repairs and servicing see the workshop a five-minute walk east, near Kilroy’s restaurant. Day trips US$35, multiday trips around US$65/45 with/without transport backup.
- Himalayan Mountain Bikes (HMB; www.bikingnepal.com, www.bikeasia.info) Kathmandu (Map; 01-4212860; [email protected]) Kathmandu Valley tours US$50 per day with accommodation but no transport. Full service and repairs, bike hire RS 700 per day, guide US$40 per day.
- Nepal Mountain Bike Tours (Map; 01-4701701; www.bikehimalayas.com) Day trips from US$30, bike rentals Rs 700. Next to Green Hill Tours. Contact Ranjan.
- Path Finder Cycling (Map; 01-4700468; www.tibetbiking.com; Thamel, Kathmandu) Offers day- and multiday tours, bike hire (Rs 700 per day) and guides. Located across from La Dolce Vita Restaurant.
Routes
THE SCAR ROAD FROM KATHMANDU
- Distance 70km
- Duration Six hours, or two days overnighting in Kakani
- Start Kathmandu
- Finish Kathmandu
- Brief description Fine views and a challenging descent through a national park, after a tough initial climb of around 700m
The Scar Rd is considered one of the Kathmandu Valley’s classic mountain-bike adventures but it’s a challenging ride for experienced riders only. Route-finding can be tricky so a guide is recommended.
Leaving Kathmandu (elevation 1337m), head towards Balaju on the Ring Rd 2km north of Thamel, and follow the sealed Trisuli Bazaar road towards Kakani, 23km away at an altitude of 2073m. You start to climb out of the valley as the road twists and turns past the Nagarjun Forest Reserve, which provides the road with a leafy canopy. Once you’re through the initial pass and out of the valley, the road continues northwest and offers a view of endless terraced fields to your left. (If you don’t fancy the climb you can avoid cycling on the road by putting your bike on the roof of the early morning bus to Dhunche and getting off here.) On reaching the summit of the ridge, take a turn right (at a clearly marked T-junction), instead of continuing down to Trisuli Bazaar. (If you go too far you reach a checkpoint just 100m beyond.) At this point magnificent views of the Ganesh Himal (himal means a range with permanent snow) provide the inspiration required to complete the remaining 4km of steep and deteriorating blacktop to the crown of the hill at Kakani for a well-deserved rest. It’s an excellent idea to overnight here at the Tara Gaon or other such guest house and savour the dawn views over the Himalaya.
After admiring the view from a road-side teashop, descend for just 30m beyond the gate and take the first left onto a 4WD track. This track will take you through the popular picnic grounds frequented on Saturday by Kathmandu locals. Continue in an easterly direction towards Shivapuri. The track narrows after a few kilometres near a metal gate on your left. Through the gate, you are faced with some rough stone steps and then a 10-minute push/carry up and over the hilltop to an army checkpoint. Here it’s necessary for foreigners to pay an entry fee of Rs 250 to the Shivapuri National Park. Exit the army camp, turning right where the Scar Rd is clearly visible in front of you. You are now positioned at the day’s highest point – approximately 2200m.
Taking the right-hand track you start to descend dramatically along an extremely steep, rutted single trail with several water crossings. The trail is literally cut into the side of the hill, with sharp drops on the right that challenge a rider’s skill and nerve. As you hurtle along, take time to admire the view of the sprawling Kathmandu Valley below – it’s one of the best. In recent years the trail has become quite overgrown so you may have to carry your bike for several stretches and seek out the correct path. A guide would be useful for this section.
For more ideas on biking around the Kathmandu Valley Click here.
The trail widens, after one long gnarly climb before the saddle, then it’s relatively flat through the protected Shivapuri watershed area. This beautiful mountain-biking section lasts for nearly 25km before the trail descends into the valley down a 7km spiral on a gravel road. This joins a sealed road, to the relief of jarred wrists, at Budhanilkantha, where you can buy refreshments. Take a moment to see the Sleeping Vishnu just up on your left at the main intersection. From here the sealed road descends gently for the remaining 15km back into the bustle of Kathmandu.
KATHMANDU TO DHULIKHEL
- Distance 90km
- Duration Two days
- Start Kathmandu
- Finish Kathmandu
- Brief description A circular route past a classic selection of the valley’s cultural sights
This circular tour (Map) takes you along valley backroads to Dhulikhel on the first day (32km), and then to Namobuddha and back to Kathmandu via the busy Arniko Hwy (58km).
From Thamel, head east out of town in the direction of Pashupatinath. Proceed along the northern fringe of the Pashupatinath complex, on the south side of the Bagmati River, and look for the road running off to the right near the northern end of the airport runway. From the northeast corner join the road running north–south and then the road running east to the town of Bhaktapur. This road runs parallel to the much busier Arniko Hwy and is a much better option to Bhaktapur, via the northern tip of Thimi.
You can also access this road from the Arniko Hwy; take a left off the main highway, just past the bridge over the Manohara River, onto a narrower sealed road that heads back towards the airport on its east side. At the next main intersection (1.8km on) is the turn right to Bhaktapur, 16km away.
You could spend time in this wonderfully preserved former kingdom, but if you intend to cycle straight through, you’ll save yourself the Rs 750 entry fee by taking the roads around the town, to the north and east. Make your way to the town’s eastern gate, join a tarmac road and then bear southeast.
The asphalt ends and the road continues in the form of a compacted track towards the rural village of Nala, 9km away through a beautiful corner of the valley. The track climbs gradually to a minor pass and army checkpoint. A gentle 2km downhill gradient brings you past the Buddhist Karunamaya Temple (dedicated to Machhendranath) to rural Nala, with its pretty four-roofed Bhagwati Temple in the central square.
From Nala head right and continue for 3km to Banepa, riding through the old town before hitting the main Arniko Hwy. Turn left at the highway and continue along the sealed main road for a further 4km uphill to Dhulikhel. This completes the first day (32km).
Dhulikhel to Namobuddha & Kathmandu (37km)
The trail to Namobuddha is a popular detour from Dhulikhel, and offers superb trail riding with spectacular views of the Himalaya. Click here for a description of the route.
From Panauti you join a sealed road that’s a flat run along the valley to the main road at Banepa. From this point you can return to Kathmandu, 26km via the Arniko Hwy, or ride the 3.5km back to Dhulikhel. The loop from Dhulikhel via Namobuddha is 37km; if you return to Kathmandu it’s a total run of 58km via Namobuddha. For something wilder, take the adventurous alternative route back to Kathmandu via Lakuri Bhanjyang (see below).
THE BACK DOOR TO KATHMANDU
- Distance 30km
- Duration Half-day
- Start Panauti
- Finish Patan/Kathmandu
- Brief description Remote and difficult mountain route with almost zero traffic. A good motorbike route.
Don’t let the heavenly first 4.5km of tarmac lull you into a false sense of security. The road soon deteriorates into 3km of dirt road to the village of Kushadevi, followed by 2.5km of bone-jarring stony track to Riyale. From here the valley really starts to close in and gets increasingly remote – this is definitely not the place to blow a tyre! It’s amazing how remote the route is, considering it is so close to Kathmandu. If you’re not an experienced mountain biker, you’re probably better off considering this as a motorbike route.
This backroads track offers a great alternative return route to Kathmandu, bypassing the busy, dangerous and polluted main Arniko Hwy. It’s a surprisingly remote route (Map), so make sure you take enough water, food and spare parts as there’s nothing en route.
The next 8.5km is on a smooth dirt road that switchbacks up the hillsides to the pass of Lakuri Bhanjyang (1960m). You may find some basic food stalls but the actual summit is currently occupied by the army. In the past, travel companies have set up tented camp accommodation near here but this depends on tourism numbers and the levels of army presence. Figure on two to three hours to here.
From here on it’s all downhill. The first section drops down the back side of the hill, blocking the views, but you soon get great views of the Annapurna and Ganesh Himal massifs – particularly spectacular in sunset’s pink glow.
A further 5km of descent, rough at times, brings you to the turn-off left to Sisneri and the first village on this side of the pass. Soon the asphalt kicks in again, shortly followed by the pleasant village of Lubbhu, with its impressive central three-tiered Mahalakshmi Mahadev Temple. Traffic levels pick up for the final 5km to the Kathmandu ring road near Patan; be prepared for the ‘civilisation’ to come as a bit of a shock after such a beautiful, peaceful ride.
DHULIKHEL TO THE TIBETAN BORDER
- Distance 83km one way
- Duration Four days return
- Start Dhulikhel
- Finish Kodari
- Brief description A long descent followed by a gradual climb alongside the white water of the Bhote Kosi to the border with Tibet
Dhulikhel to Lamosangu (49km)
From Dhulikhel you immediately begin an adrenaline-filled descent (almost 900m) into the Panchkhal Valley, on a slick sealed road, with majestic views of the Himalaya adding to a thrilling ride. A couple of short climbs interrupt the descent as you cycle to Dolalghat, on the Indrawati River, a popular starting point for Sun Kosi rafting trips (Click here for more information). On the downhill watch for overtaking buses on the blind corners.
From Dolalghat (around 53km from Kathmandu) you cross the bridge over the Indrawati River and climb out of the Panchkhal Valley to join the Bhote Kosi, which you follow for the rest of the journey. Owing to landslide damage there is a mixture of surfaced and unsurfaced roads. Traffic can be quite heavy along this section. The road climbs at a gentle gradient as it follows the river.
Add the trip from Dhulikhel to the Friendship Bridge at Kodari onto the previous itinerary for a great four- or five-day run from Kathmandu.
A couple of kilometres past the turn-off to Jiri is Lamosangu, 27km from Dolalghat, where there are a couple of fish restaurants.
Lamosangu to Tatopani & Kodari (34km)
The next section of the ride continues for around 7km to Barabise, where the road changes into a compacted dirt track with a top layer of dust that is transformed into choking clouds when buses pass; in wet weather it all turns to mud. Care should be taken during heavy rains as this section of the road is particularly susceptible to landslides. The valley’s sides begin to get steeper and it gradually changes into a beautiful gorge with spectacular waterfalls.
It may be possible (but dependent on border guards) for border junkies to cycle beyond the bridge and climb a rough, winding and steep track to the Chinese customs checkpoint (8km), just outside of Zhangmu (Nepali: Khasa), which is visible from the bridge.
The track climbs practically the entire 23km to Tatopani and a further 4km to Kodari, at the edge of the Friendship Bridge and the border with Tibet. The section of the ride that climbs from Tatopani to the Friendship Bridge is probably the most beautiful.
It should be possible to return as far as Borderlands the same day, taking advantage of a mainly downhill ride. Otherwise, you can stay in Tatopani and visit the hot springs there.
Tatopani to Dhulikhel (79km)
The ride back to Dhulikhel is around 80km and includes the long climb out of Dolalghat, for which you should allow plenty of time. An option here is to jump on a local bus with your bicycle. Depending on how you feel after the climb, you can stay in Dhulikhel or complete the trip by returning the 32km to Kathmandu.
THE RAJPATH FROM KATHMANDU
- Distance 150km
- Duration Two days
- Start Kathmandu
- Finish Hetauda
- Brief description Classic but gruelling on-road ride over a 2488m pass, culminating with incomparable Himalayan views at Daman. For a regional overview see the map, pp314–15.
Accommodation options are at Barabise, Borderlands Resort (a further 16km from Lamosangu, on a dirt road), and the Last Resort (4km further). Click here for more on accommodation options in this area.
The ride begins on the Kathmandu–Pokhara (Prithvi) Hwy, which gives the only access to the valley. After leaving the valley, the highway descends to Naubise, at the bottom of the Mahesh Khola Valley, 27km from Kathmandu, where the Rajpath intersects with the Prithvi Hwy. Take the Rajpath, which forks to the left and is well signposted, for Hetauda. Start a 35km climb to Tistung (2030m) past terraced fields, carved into steep hillsides. On reaching the pass at Tistung you descend for 7km into the beautiful Palung Valley before the final steep 9km climb to Daman, at a height of 2322m.
This day’s ride (almost all climbing) takes between six and nine hours in the saddle. Thus, with an early start it is possible to stay in Daman, which will give you the thrill of waking up to the broadest Himalayan panorama Nepal has to offer. The following day the road climbs a further 3km to the top of the pass, at 2488m. At this point you can savour the very real prospect of an exhilarating 2300m descent in 60km!
The switchbacking Tribhuvan Hwy (or Rajpath) was the first highway to connect Kathmandu with the rest of the world. Most traffic from the Terai and India uses the highway that runs to the west between Narayangarh (Narayanghat) and Mugling, so traffic along the Rajpath is relatively light.
As you descend towards the Indian plains, laid out before you to the south, notice the contrast with the side you climbed, as the south side is lush and semitropical. With innumerable switchbacks and a bit of speed you should watch out for the occasional bus and truck looming around blind corners. The road eventually flattens out after the right turn to cross a newly constructed bridge and the first main river crossing. The rest of the journey is a gently undulating route alongside a river; a further 10km brings you to Hetauda. (Click here for details on accommodation; note that there are useful cyclists’ notebooks in the Motel Avocado.) After a night’s rest you can continue along the Rajpath towards India or turn right at the statue of the king in the centre of town and head towards Chitwan National Park.
HETAUDA TO NARAYANGARH & MUGLING
- Distance 91km to Narayangarh, 105km via Sauraha
- Duration One to 1½ days
- Start Hetauda
- Finish Narayangarh or Mugling
- Brief description Tropical ride across the Terai plains, best during winter and combined with a visit to Chitwan
Hetauda is just to the east of Chitwan National Park, which has a wide selection of accommodation, both in the park and in the town of Sauraha – Click here. You are prohibited from riding inside the park, but are allowed to ride directly to your resort.
This is vastly different riding from that of the other rides described in this chapter, and in the summer months (May to September) it can be a very hot and humid ride. From Hetauda, as you cycle along the flat, smooth road towards Narayangarh enjoying the lush subtropical scenery, watch for resort signposts on your left. Machan Wildlife Resort’s Click here turn-off is 40km from Hetauda, and the resort is reached after a further 4km of beautiful trail riding with three river crossings. Alternatively, a further 23km from the Machan turn-off brings you to the Chitwan Jungle Lodge turn-off. A further 14km brings you to Tadi Bazaar and the turn-off for Sauraha, reached by an interesting 6km-long 4WD track.
From Narayangarh, on the banks of the Narayani River 20km from Sauraha, you can return to either Kathmandu or Pokhara via Mugling. Although some may say this section from Narayangarh to Mugling is best avoided on a bicycle because of heavy bus and truck traffic, it is nonetheless a very beautiful section of road to ride, and traffic during many times of the day can be light. The alternative is to catch a bus. If you’re heading to Pokhara (96km) it may be a good idea to miss the busy highway between Mugling and Pokhara by catching a bus in Mugling. Here, the road is much improved and vehicles travel a lot faster in what are still quite dusty conditions.
At Mugling you’ll find plenty of food and accommodation (Click here), or break the trip at the idyllic River Side Springs Resort, just before Mugling, at Kurintar.
KATHMANDU TO POKHARA VIA THE PRITHVI HIGHWAY
- Distance 216km
- Duration Two days
- Start Kathmandu
- Finish Pokhara
- Brief description Riverside views, changing scenery and plenty of traffic separate Nepal’s two tourist magnets
It’s theoretically possible to make Pokhara in 12 to 14 hours of steady biking, but it’s a much better idea to break the trip at the wonderful but little-visited sights of Bandipur and Gorkha, both of which are a short detour off the road and offer decent accommodation. For details of the sights along this road see the Kathmandu to Pokhara chapter, Click here.
A surprisingly large number of bicyclists show an interest in this ride, perhaps due to the riverside views, and the attractions at either end. You are almost guaranteed to see the remains of a truck or bus crash en route. The message is obvious – take care on this notorious stretch of road.
After leaving the valley on the Prithvi Hwy during the climb to Thankot, the highway descends to Naubise, at the bottom of the Mahesh Khola Valley, 27km from Kathmandu, where the Rajpath intersects with the Prithvi Hwy.
Following the thrilling, if not hair-raising, descent (watching for oil slicks after on-the-spot truck repairs), Mugling is about the halfway mark at 120km, four to five hours’ ride from Kathmandu. There are also lots of simple food stops along the way at some very scenic spots.
From Mugling you keep to the right as you exit the town and within 300m you will cross the Trisuli River bridge. The second half of your journey to Pokhara is mostly uphill, but still offers some excellent downhills. From Mugling there’s an overall altitude gain of about 550m over 96km. Again there are numerous roadside cafes and food stops to keep the carbohydrates supplied. The final approach to Pokhara, with the Annapurnas as a backdrop, will pick you up after a long day of biking.
POKHARA TO SARANGKOT & NAUDANDA
- Distance 54km
- Duration Seven hours, or an overnight trip
- Start Pokhara
- Finish Pokhara
- Brief description Work up a sweat to two of Pokhara’s best Himalayan viewpoints, followed by a great downhill coast
The ride to Sarangkot, visible directly north from Pokhara Lakeside, provides an excellent, challenging day trip. This is in fact the bicycle leg of the Annapurna Triathlon. For a map of the area Click here.
Leave early and ride along Lakeside (towards the mountains) to the last main intersection and sealed road. Turn right; this is the road that returns to central Pokhara. After 2km you turn left and continue straight on (north). This intersection is the zero kilometre road marker. After a further 2km there is a smaller sealed road to the left, signposted as the road to Sarangkot.
This winds its way along a ridge into Sarangkot, providing outstanding views of the Himalaya, which seems close enough to reach out and touch. After 6km a few tea shops make a welcome refreshment stop just where the stone steps mark the walking trail to the summit. From here it’s a 4WD track that closely hugs the edge of the mountain overlooking Phewa Tal. Continue until you join a Y-intersection that doubles back sharply to the right and marks the final climb to Sarangkot Point. You can turn this ride into a relaxed overnight trip by staying in lodges here (Click here).
The view from the ridge at Naudanda is spectacularly beautiful. Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, the Annapurnas and Machhapuchhare create a classic Himalayan panorama, especially on a cool, clear morning. To the south you can look down over Pokhara and Phewa Tal.
From Sarangkot continue straight ahead, riding the narrower motorcycle trails leading to Kaski and Naudanda. After the Sarangkot turn-off the trail soon begins to climb to Kaski, towards the hill immediately in front of you. The section to Kaski takes around 30 to 60 minutes, and you may need to push your bicycle on the steeper section near the crown of the hill. Over the top you follow the trail through to Naudanda. You are now at around 1590m, having gained around 840m altitude from Pokhara. The trail is rocky in parts and will test your equipment to the extreme, so do not consider riding this trail on a cheap hire bicycle.
From Naudanda it’s a 32km downhill run to Pokhara along the smooth asphalt highway. This route starts with a twisting 6km descent into the Mardi Khola Valley then descends gently as it follows the river, allowing an enjoyable coast almost all the way back to Pokhara.
Return to beginning of chapter
RAFTING & KAYAKING
Nepal has a reputation for being one of the best places in the world for rafting and kayaking, with outstanding river journeys ranging from steep, adrenaline-charged mountain streams to classic big-volume wilderness expeditions. Warm water, a subtropical climate (with no bugs!) and huge white sandy beaches that are ideal for camping just add to the appeal.
There has also been a continuous increase in the number of kayakers coming to Nepal and it is justifiably recognised as a mecca for paddlers. Several companies offer trips that cater specifically to kayakers, where you get to explore the river with rafts carrying all your gear and food, and often camp near choice play spots.
Several adventure camps offer tented accommodation, superb locations and a range of outdoor activities from rafting to canyoning. For details see Borderlands (www.borderlandresorts.com; Click here), the Last Resort (www.tlrnepal.com; Click here) and the Royal Beach Camp (www.tlrnepal.com; Click here).
When to Go
The best times for rafting and kayaking are September to early December, and March to early June. From early September to early October, and May to June, the rivers can be extremely high with monsoon runoff. Any expeditions attempted at this time require a very experienced rafting company with an intimate knowledge of the river and strong teams, as times of high flows are potentially the most dangerous times to be on a river.
From mid-October onwards is one of the most popular times to raft or kayak, with warm settled weather and exciting runs. In December many of the rivers become too cold to enjoy unless you have a wetsuit, and the days are short with the start of winter – the time to consider shorter trips. The summer season from March to early June has long hot days and lower water flows to begin with, which generally means the rapids are a grade lower than they are from September to November. The rivers rise again in May with the pre-monsoon storms and some snowmelt.
From June to August the monsoon rains arrive. The rivers carry 10 times their low-water flows, and can flood with 60 to 80 times the low-water levels, making most rivers insanely difficult. Only parts of the Seti, upper Sun Kosi and Trisuli are commercially run during the monsoon. River levels can fluctuate dramatically at any time, although as a general rule weather patterns in Nepal are quite stable.
The website www.raftnepal.org offers an excellent overview of rafting options across Nepal, as well as advice about other extreme sports.
What to Bring
If you go on an organised rafting or kayaking trip all specialised equipment is supplied, as well as tents. Roll-top dry bags keep your gear dry even if the vessel flips.
Usually you will only need light clothing, with a warmer change for cool nights. A swimsuit, a towel, a sunhat, insect repellent, sunscreen and light tennis shoes or sandals (that will stay on your feet) are all necessary, but can be bought in Kathmandu. Overnight trips require a sleeping bag, but these can be hired. In winter you will need thermal clothing, especially on rivers like the Bhote Kosi. Check if companies provide paddle jackets and wetsuits.
Organised Trips
There are dozens of companies in Kathmandu claiming to be rafting and kayaking operators. A few are well-established companies with good reputations, and the rest are newer companies, often formed by guides breaking away and starting their own operations, and sometimes by people with very little experience of rivers. Although these new companies can be enthusiastic and good, they can also be shoestring operations that may not have adequate equipment and staff. Most of the small travel agencies simply sell trips on commission; often they have no real idea about the details of what they are selling and are only interested in getting bums on seats.
THE FUTURE OF RIVER-RUNNING IN NEPAL
In the past 20 years, a number of Nepali rivers have stopped flowing freely because of construction of hydroelectric projects. Around 90% of Nepal’s power comes from hydroelectricity, much of it exported to India, and the government’s vision of using hydro development to stimulate economic growth has put it on a collision course with environmental and rafting groups. A recent project on the Marsyangdi cut the river into a series of shorter sections and more dams are planned. There are further projects planned for the Karnali, Arun, Budhi Gandaki, West Seti, Tamur and Bhote Kosi Rivers.
The Nepal River Conservation Trust (NRCT) was formed by a group of concerned river guides in 1995 to raise awareness of the plight of Nepal’s rivers, to lobby governments and to promote responsible use of rivers. The NRCT trains river guides in best environmental practice and organises river restoration projects. The NRCT organises the Bagmati River Festival from June to August (main events mid-August), which involves clean-up and environmental awareness campaigns, and rafting trips on the Bagmati from Sundarijal to Sankhamul. Contact the NRCT ( 01-4361995; www.nepalrivers.org.np) for more information.
If a group has recently returned from a trip, speak to its members. This will give you reliable information about the quality of equipment, the guides, the food and the transportation. Question the company about things such as how groups get to and from the river, the number of hours spent paddling or rowing, where the camps are set up, food provided (rafting promotes a very healthy appetite), who does the cooking and work around the camp, the cooking fuel used (wood isn’t convenient or responsible), what happens to rubbish, hygiene precautions, and night-time activities. Many companies have a photo file or video in their office, which can give you an impression of the equipment, safety and how trips are operated.
Nepa Maps and Himalayan Maphouse (www.himalayan-maphouse.com) produce fairly useful rafting maps of the Bhote Kosi, Sun Kosi and Trisuli Rivers.
Check how many people have booked and paid for a trip, as well as the maximum number that will be taken.
The quality of the rafting and kayaking equipment is another variable, and can make a huge difference to the comfort and safety of participants. Modern self-bailing rafts, good life jackets and helmets are essential. Check how old the equipment is (modern plastic and alloy paddles are preferable to locally made wooden ones, for example) and ask what first-aid gear, supplies, spare parts and repair equipment are carried.
If your time is limited you may choose to book a trip before you leave home, though all Kathmandu operators accept walk-in bookings. Shorter trips depart every few days but the longer rafting trips only depart every week or so, so it’s worth contacting a company in advance to see when they are planning a trip. The best companies will refer you to a friendly competitor if they don’t have any suitable dates.
The annual Himalayan Whitewater Challenge, or rodeo, is a kayaking competition that runs for three days in November, either on the Trisuli or the Bhote Kosi Rivers.
Rafting and kayaking trips vary from quite luxurious trips where you are rowed down the river and staff do everything for you (pitch camp, cook and so on), to trips where you participate in the running of the expedition including pitching tents, loading the rafts and helping with the cooking.
Generally you’ll be rafting or kayaking for around five to six hours a day, and you can expect to be running rapids about 30% of the time depending on the river. The first and last days will most likely be half days. Longer trips of a week or more will probably have one rest day when you can relax or explore the surroundings.
Trips booked in Nepal range in price from US$30 to US$80 a day, depending on the standard of service, number of people on the trip and the river. On the Trisuli and Kali Gandaki the better operators charge US$35 to US$40 per day while other river trips cost US$45 to US$55 per day. Expect to pay US$10 to US$20 per day on a more remote expedition with more difficult and expensive logistics. Generally you get what you pay for. It is better to pay a bit more and have a good, safe trip than to save US$100 and have a lousy, dangerous trip. Bear in mind that trips in Nepal are generally less than half the cost of similar trips in the US, so in relative terms all the prices are extremely reasonable. If you plan to do a more difficult trip it’s particularly important to choose a company that has the experience, skills and equipment to run a safe and exciting expedition. As one rafting company says, ‘saving you a little can cost you a lot’.
RIVER GRADING SYSTEM
Rivers are graded for difficulty on an international scale from class 1 to 6, with class 1 defined as easy-moving water with few obstacles, and class 6 as nearly impossible to negotiate and a hazard to life. Anyone who is in reasonable physical shape and isn’t afraid of water can safely go on rivers graded class 1 to 3. For more difficult and exciting class 4 rivers, you should be active, confident in water and have rafting experience. Class 5 is a very large step up from class 4; expect long continuous sections of powerful white water, strenuous paddling, steep constricted channels, powerful waves and the possibility of overturning a raft. Swimming in a class 5 rapid poses a significant risk.
Anyone who is seriously interested in rafting and kayaking should get White Water Nepal by Peter Knowles. It has very detailed information on river trips, with 60 maps, river profiles and hydrographs, plus advice on equipment and health. Get a copy in Kathmandu, or check out www.riverspublishing.co.uk.
With the constant change in rafting and kayaking companies it’s difficult to make individual recommendations; the fact that a company is not recommended here does not necessarily mean it will not deliver an excellent trip. Nonetheless, the following companies have been recommended for their professionalism.
- Adrenaline Rush (Map; 01-4700961; www.adrenalinenepal.com; Thamel) All kinds of rafting and kayaking trips, including in a ‘ducky’ (inflatable kayak).
- Drift Nepal (Map; 01-4700797; www.driftnepal.com.np) Contact Samir Thapa.
- Equator Expeditions (Map; 01-4700782; www.equatorexpeditionsnepal.com, www.nepalgate.com; Thamel, Kathmandu) This company specialises in long participatory rafting/kayaking trips and kayak instruction.
- Himalayan Encounters Kathmandu (Map; 01-4700426; www.himalayanencounters.com; Kathmandu Guest House courtyard, Thamel, Kathmandu) This company has earned a solid reputation through many Trisuli and Sun Kosi trips. Its Trisuli trips stay at its Trisuli Center camp, near Big Fig beach, while its Seti trips hike in from Bandipur.
- Mountain River Rafting (Map; 01-4700770; www.mountainriverrafting.com; Thamel, Kathmandu)
- Paddle Nepal (www.paddlenepal.com) Kathmandu (Map; 01-4700239; Thamel) Pokhara (Map; 061-207077) Tiny office in Thamel under Nargila Restaurant, with a main office in Pokhara; also offers kayak clinics.
- Ultimate Descents Nepal (www.udnepal.com) Kathmandu (Map; 01-4701295); Pokhara (Map; 061-463240) Near Northfield Cafe and part of the Borderlands group. Specialises in long participatory rafting trips as well as kayak instruction and clinics on the Seti River.
- Ultimate Rivers (Map; /fax 01-4700526; [email protected]; Thamel, Kathmandu) Ultimate Rivers is associated with the New Zealand company Ultimate Descents International (www.ultimatedescents.com) and specialises in multiday expedition rafting and kayaking. The Kathmandu office is just north of the Kathmandu Guest House.
Waterproof camera containers allow you to take photos all the way down the river – ask your company if they have any for rent or, better, bring your own.
Safety
Safety is the most important part of any river trip. Safety is a combination of the right technical skills, teamwork, planning and local knowledge. Unfortunately, there are no minimum safety conditions enforced by any official body in Nepal. This makes it very important to choose a professional rafting and kayaking company.
NUMBERS
There should be a minimum of two rafts per trip. If anyone falls out of a raft the second raft can help with the rescue. In higher water three rafts are safer than two. Many experts agree that one or two safety kayakers can replace the second raft, though the kayakers need to be white-water professionals with the training, skill and experience not only to run the most difficult rapids on the river, but also to be able to perform rescues in these rapids. Good safety kayakers are invaluable on steeper rivers where they can often get to swimmers in places no other craft could manage.
www.raftingassociation.org.np is the website of the Nepal Association of Rafting Agents and has information on the annual Himalayan Whitewater Challenge, contact details of rafting companies and overviews of river routes.
GUIDES
The most important aspects of rafting safety are both the skills and judgment of the guides and the teamwork of the group on the trip. If possible, speak with the guide who will lead the trip to get an impression of the people you will be spending time with and the type of trip they run. Ask them about their previous experience. Overseas experience or training allows the guides to keep up with the latest advances and safety training. Kayaking experience adds additional depth to a rafting guide’s skills.
All guides should have a current first-aid certificate and be trained in cardiopulmonary resuscitation. Reputable companies with reliable guides will seek international accreditation such as the Swiftwater Rescue Technician (SRT) qualification.
ON THE RIVER
Your guide should give you a comprehensive safety talk and paddle training before you launch off downstream. If you don’t get this it is probably cause for concern.
- Listen to what your guide is telling you. Always wear your life jacket in rapids. Wear your helmet whenever your guide tells you, and make sure that both the helmet and jacket are properly adjusted and fitted.
- Keep your feet and arms inside the raft. If the raft hits a rock or wall and you are in the way, the best you’ll escape with is a laceration.
- If you do swim in a rapid, get into the ‘white-water swimming position’. You should be on your back, with your feet downstream and up where you can see them. Hold on to your paddle as this will make you more visible. Relax and breathe when you aren’t going through waves. Then turn over and swim at the end of the rapid when the water becomes calmer. Self-rescue is the best rescue.
Kayaking
The opportunities for kayak expeditions are exceptional. Apart from the rivers discussed later in this chapter, of note at the right flows are the Mardi Khola, Tamba Kosi, Karnali headwaters, Thuli Bheri, Balephi Khola and tributaries of the Tamur.
The upper Modhi Khola is also good for experienced kayakers. The side creek of the Bhurungdi Khola, by Birethani village, hides several waterfalls which are runable by experienced kayakers.
TRANSPORTING YOUR OWN KAYAK
Most airlines will carry short kayaks on the same basis as surfboards or bicycles; there’s no excess baggage charge, as long as you are within the weight limits. If you are a group, negotiate a deal at the time of booking. If there are only one or two of you, just turn up, put all your bulky light gear in the kayak, with heavy items in your carry-on luggage, and smile sweetly! If you phone the airline in advance they have to quote the rulebook and start talking air cargo, which is expensive.
KAYAK CLINICS
Nepal is an ideal place to learn to kayak and several rafting companies offer learner kayak clinics. For the communication required to teach, the best instruction clinics tend to be staffed with both Western and Nepali instructors. Kayak clinics normally take about four days, which gives you time to get a good grounding in the basics of kayaking, safety and river dynamics.
‘Nepal is an ideal place to learn to kayak and several rafting companies offer learner kayak clinics.’
The clinics are a pretty laid-back intro to kayaking, with around four to six hours of paddling a day. On day one you’ll learn self-rescue, T-rescue and Eskimo roll, which will help you to right yourself when you capsize. Day two sees you on the river, learning to ferry glide (cross the river), eddy in and eddy out (entering and leaving currents) and perfecting your paddling strokes. Day three is when you start really having fun on the river, running small (class 2) rapids and journeying down the river, learning how to read the rapids. The key is to relax your upper body to move with the kayak, and not to panic if you tip over. Physical flexibility is a real plus. Expect one instructor for every three people.
Equator Expeditions and Ultimate Rivers (see rafting companies, Click here) operate clinics on the upper Sun Kosi. Equator runs the Sukute Beach Resort, just north of Sukute village between kilometre markers 69 and 70. It’s fairly comfortable but isn’t as luxurious as Borderlands or the Last Resort, with squat toilets and cold showers. Still, it has a great spot on the river, with a private beach, a bar area with pool tables and a lovely stretch of river nearby. It also has a pool which is a real bonus when learning Eskimo rolls.
Ultimate Rivers uses the Riverside Camp, between kilometre markers 83 and 84, which is a similarly basic camp, made up of dome tents. Both companies charge around US$160 for the four-day clinic, though you can often negotiate a cheaper price if you take the local bus. For both trips check what kind of transportation is included. You may find yourself flagging down local buses and putting your kayak on the roof for short rides after a trip down the river. For US$40 you can tag on a day’s kayaking to a bungee jump at the Last Resort.
The Royal Beach Camp (www.royalbeachnepal.com) offers two- to seven-day kayak clinics from its camp on the Trisuli River. Add-ons include canyoning and rafting trips. Contact it at the office in Kathmandu just north of the Kathmandu Guest House.
Ultimate Descents Nepal and Mountain River Rafting (see rafting companies, Click here) operate their four-day clinics on the gentle Seti River, for around US$250, from Pokhara to Pokhara. The first day’s training takes place on Phewa Tal and the remaining three days are on the Seti, with two nights’ riverside camping. The kayak route follows the rafting route (Click here), putting in at Damauli and taking out at Ghaighat, at the junction with the Trisuli River. The advantage to learning on the Seti is that you get to journey down a wilderness river. Upper Sun Kosi kayak clinics can be structured for instruction from one to four days.
Kayak-clinic accommodation is more basic than luxury tented camps like Borderlands or the Last Resort. Nose plugs are useful for those practice Eskimo rolls and you should bring a warm change of clothes as you are going to get wet.
The bulk of kayak clinics operate in late October, November, March and April. December to February clinics are still possible, but with shorter days, and there’s a lot less sunlight to warm you up at the beginning and end of the day.
Choosing a River
Before you decide on a river, you need to decide what it is that you want out of your trip. There are trips available from two to 12 days on different rivers, all offering dramatically different experiences.
First, don’t believe that just because it’s a river it’s going to be wet ’n’ wild. Some rivers, such as the Sun Kosi, which is a full-on white-water trip in September and October, are basically flat in the low water of early spring. On the flip side, early spring can be a superb time to raft rivers such as the Marsyangdi or Bhote Kosi, which would be suicidal during high flows. The Karnali is probably the only river that offers continually challenging white water at all flows, though during the high-water months of September and May it’s significantly more challenging than in the low-water months.
Ganesh Kayak Shop (www.ganeshkayak.com) in Pokhara is the only place to hire kayaks by the day – Click here.
Longer trips such as the Sun Kosi (in the autumn), the Karnali and the Tamur offer some real heart-thumping white water with the incredible journeying aspect of a long river trip. With more time on the river, things are more relaxed, relationships progress at a more natural pace, and memories become entrenched for a lifetime. Long after the white water has blurred into one white-knuckled thrill ride, the memories of a moonrise over the river and the friends you inevitably make will remain. River trips are much more than gravity-powered roller-coaster rides; they’re liquid journeys traversed on very special highways. For many people they become a way of life.
If a long trip is simply impossible because of financial or time constraints, don’t undervalue the shorter ones. Anyone who has ever taken a paddle-raft or kayak down the Bhote Kosi (at any flow) would be hard pressed to find anything better to do with two days in Nepal. There are also medium-length options that are perfect for people who want to experience a river journey but have limited time.
River Routes
This section describes the main commercially rafted rivers in Nepal. It is by no means a complete list, and private boaters who have the experience, equipment and desire to run their own expeditions are best advised to consult the guidebook, White Water Nepal (see sidebar, Click here).
RIVER TRIPS IN NEPAL
Note that in the ‘Season/Grade’ column, the number in brackets refers to the grade when the high river flows, which is normally at the beginning and end of the season.
TRISULI
- Distance 40km
- Duration One to two days
- Start Baireni
- Finish Multiple locations
- Brief description Popular introduction to rafting, a wild ride during the monsoon
With easy access just out of Kathmandu, the Trisuli is where many budget river trips operate.
This is an obvious choice if you are looking for a short introduction to rafting at the cheapest possible price.
A rafting trip on the Trisuli is a convenient and fun add-on to travelling between Kathmandu and Pokhara, Chitwan, Bandipur or the start of the Annapurna Circuit.
The Trisuli has some good rapids and scenery but with the main busy road to Kathmandu beside the river it is not wilderness rafting. Some operators have their own fixed campsites or lodges, ranging from safari-style resorts to windblown village beaches complete with begging kids and scavenging dogs. The two most established locations are the Royal Beach Camp (Click here) and the Trisuli Centre, part of Himalayan Encounters (Click here). Both are sited in the best of the white water and have good facilities and food. The Trisuli Centre is next to Big Fig beach, a charming village and a 160m suspension bridge across the river.
When booking, ask where the put-in point is: anything starting at Kuringhat or Mugling will mainly be a relaxing float. During the mid-monsoon months (August to early October) the Trisuli changes character completely as huge runoffs make the river swell and shear like an immense ribbon of churning ocean, especially after its confluence with the Bhodi Gandaki. At these flows it provides a classic big-volume Himalayan river so make sure you choose a reputable company to go with.
BHOTE KOSI
- Distance 18km
- Duration Two days
- Start 95km from Kathmandu, near the Tibetan border
- Finish Lamosangu
- Brief description Just three hours from Kathmandu, the Bhote Kosi is one of the best short raft trips to be found anywhere in the world
The Bhote Kosi is the steepest river rafted in Nepal – technical and totally committing. With a gradient of 15m per kilometre, it’s a full eight times as steep as the Sun Kosi, which it feeds further downstream. The rapids are steep and continuous class 4, with a lot of continuous class 3 in between.
The best white water is found on the section between Charaudi and Mugling and can be done as a full-on half-day. Trips on the Trisuli can be combined with excursions to Pokhara or Chitwan.
This river is one of the most fun things you can do right out of Kathmandu and a great way to get an adrenaline fix during the low-water months, but it should only be attempted with a company that has a lot of experience on the Bhote Kosi, and is running the absolute best guides, safety equipment and safety kayakers.
The normal run is from around 95km northeast of Kathmandu (north of Barabise) to the dam at Lamosangu. The river has been kayaked above this point, but a raft trip here would not be recreational. At high flows several of the rapids become solid class 5, and the consequences of any mistakes become serious.
Most trips are two days. At higher flows the first day is normally on the easier waters of the Upper Sun Kosi, graduating to the Bhote Kosi on the second day. At lower flows both days are on the Bhote Kosi. If you are already up here then the whole Bhote Kosi River can be done as a day trip.
Camping on the Bhote Kosi is limited, with few good beaches, so most groups stay at comfortable river camps like Borderlands and the Last Resort (Click here).
You can get an idea of what you are in for by looking at the names of some of the rapids – Gerbil in the Plumbing, Frog in a Blender, Carnal Knowledge of a Deviant Nature, Exlax and Liquid Bliss!
Rafting the Bhote Kosi out of one of these camps makes for a less hectic trip and means you can relax at the end of the day in pristine surroundings and comfort.
The environmental impact of trips is limited by staying at fixed camps, which also create local employment and business. They also offer other activities, so you can mix and match what you do.
UPPER SUN KOSI
- Distance 20km
- Duration One day
- Start Khadichour
- Finish Dolalghat
- Brief description A great place for a short family trip or learner kayak clinics
The top section of the Upper Sun Kosi from below the dam to near Sukute Beach is a class 3 white-water run offering an easier alternative when the Bhote Kosi is too high.
The lower section is a mellow scenic float, with forest down to the river, and it is a popular river for kayak clinics. At high flows during and just after the monsoon rains the Upper Sun Kosi is a full-on high class 3 to 4 high-adrenaline day trip.
SETI
- Distance 32km
- Duration Two days
- Start Damauli
- Finish Gaighat
- Brief description A quieter river that is perfect for beginners, birdwatchers, families and learner kayakers
The Seti is an excellent two-day trip in an isolated area, with beautiful jungle, white sandy beaches and plenty of class 2 to 3 rapids. The warm water also makes it a popular place for winter trips and kayak clinics. During the monsoon (June to August) the river changes radically as monsoon runoff creates big-volume class 3 to 4 rapids.
The logical starting point is Damauli on the Prithvi Hwy between Mugling and Pokhara. This would give you 32km of rafting to the confluence with the Trisuli River. From the take-out at Gaighat it’s just a one-hour drive to Chitwan National Park.
Beware if you decide to try the upper section of the Seti River, as it disappears underground above Dule Gouda! Perhaps this is what they refer to as class 6…
KALI GANDAKI
- Distance 90km
- Duration Three days (two days rafting)
- Start Baglung
- Finish Andhi Khola
- Brief description Diverse trip down the holy river, through deep gorges and past waterfalls
The Kali Gandaki is an excellent alternative to the Trisuli, as there is no road alongside, and the scenery, villages and temples all combine to make it a great trip.
The rapids on the Kali Gandaki are much more technical and continuous than those on the Trisuli (at class 3 to 4 depending on the flows), and in high water it’s no place to be unless you are an accomplished kayaker experienced in avoiding big holes. At medium and lower flows it’s a fun and challenging river with rapids that will keep you busy.
The Kali Gandaki is one of the holiest rivers in Nepal, and every river junction is dotted with cremation sites and above-ground burial mounds. If you’ve been wondering what’s under that pile of rocks, we recommend against exploring. Because of the recent construction of a dam at the confluence with the Andhi Khola, what was once a four- to five-day trip has now become a three-day trip, starting at Baglung and taking out at the dam site. At very high flows it will probably be possible to run the full five-day trip to Ramdhighat by just portaging the dam site. This option would add some great white water and you could visit the fantastic derelict palace at Ranighat.
Kayakers have the option of descending the Modhi Khola on the first day to its confluence to the Kali Gandaki, to join up with the rafting group at the end of the first day.
If you can raft to Ramdhighat beside the Siddhartha Hwy between Pokhara and Sunauli, you could continue on to the confluence with the Trisuli at Devghat. This adds another 130km and three or four more days. The lower section below Ramdhighat doesn’t have much white water, but it is seldom rafted and offers a very isolated area with lots of wildlife.
MARSYANGDI
- Distance 27km
- Duration Four days (two days rafting)
- Start Ngadi
- Finish Phaliya Sanghu (Phalesangu)
- Brief description A magnificent blue white-water river with a spectacular mountain backdrop
The Marsyangdi is steeper and offers more continuous white water than most other rivers in Nepal; it’s not called the ‘Raging River’ for nothing! You can drive by bus to Khudi or Bhulbule, from where it is a short but scenic walk up to the village of Ngadi, with great views of Manaslu ahead of you the whole time.
From Ngadi downstream to the dam side above Phaliya Sanghu, it’s pretty much solid white water. Rapids are steep, technical and consecutive, making the Marsyangdi a serious undertaking. Successful navigation of the Marsyangdi requires companies to have previous experience on the river and to use the best guides and equipment. Rafts must be self-bailing, and should be running with a minimum of weight and gear on board. Professional safety kayakers should be considered a standard safety measure on this river.
A hydro project has severely affected this world-class rafting and kayaking river but it is still possible to have a two-day run on the rapids before reaching the dam. You could divert around the dam and continue on the lower section for another two days but at this stage it is hard to tell how much water will be released and whether it will be worth doing. Future dams are planned for the river so you might want to raft this one soon.
KARNALI
- Distance 180km
- Duration 10 days (seven days rafting)
- Start Sauli
- Finish Chisopani
- Brief description A classic wilderness trip in far western Nepal down Nepal’s largest and longest river
The Karnali is a gem, combining a short (two-hour) trek with some of the prettiest canyons and jungle scenery in Nepal. Most experienced river people who have paddled the Karnali find it one of the best all-round river trips they’ve ever done. In high water the Karnali is a serious commitment, combining huge, though fairly straightforward, rapids with a seriously remote location. At low water the Karnali is still a fantastic trip. The rapids become smaller when the river drops, but the steeper gradient and constricted channel keep it interesting.
Being the longest and largest river in all of Nepal, the Karnali drains a huge and well-developed catchment. Spring snowmelts can drive the river up dramatically in a matter of hours – as the river rises, the difficulty increases exponentially. The river flows through some steep and constricted canyons where the rapids are close together, giving little opportunity to correct for potential mistakes. Pick your company carefully.
The trip starts with a long, but interesting, two-day bus ride to the remote far west of Nepal. If you’re allergic to bus rides, it’s possible to fly to Nepalganj and cut the bus transport down to about four hours on the way over, and two hours on the way back. New roads now run from the hill town of Surkhet to Sauli, from where it is a two-hour trek to the Karnali River. Once you start on the Karnali it’s 180km to the next road access at Chisopani, on the northern border of the Bardia National Park.
The river section takes about seven days, giving plenty of time to explore some of the side canyons and waterfalls that come into the river valley. Better-run trips also include a layover day, where the expedition stays at the same campsite for two nights. The combination of long bus rides and trekking puts some people off, but anyone who has ever done the trip raves about it. Finish with a visit to the Bardia National Park for an unbeatable combination.
SUN KOSI
- Distance 270km
- Duration Eight to nine days (seven days rafting)
- Start Dolalghat
- Finish Chatara
- Brief description A self-sufficient expedition through central Nepal from the Himalaya to the Gangetic Plain
This is the longest river trip offered in Nepal, traversing 270km through the beautiful Mahabharat Range on its meandering way from the put-in at Dolalghat to the take-out at Chatara in the far east of the country. It’s quite an experience to begin a river trip just three hours out of Kathmandu, barely 60km from the Tibetan border, and end the trip looking down the hot, dusty gun barrel of the north Indian plain just eight or nine days later. Because it’s one of the easiest trips logistically, it’s also one of the least expensive for the days you spend on a river.
Many rafters consider the Sun Kosi to be one of the world’s 10 classic river journeys.
The Sun Kosi (River of Gold) starts off fairly relaxed, with only class 2 and small class 3 rapids to warm up on during the first couple of days. Savvy guides will take this opportunity to get teams working together with precision. The river volume increases with the air temperature as several major tributaries join the river and from the third day the rapids become more powerful and frequent. During high-water trips you may well find yourselves astonished at just how big a river wave can get.
While the lower sections of large-volume rivers are usually rather flat, the Sun Kosi reserves some of its biggest and best rapids for the last days, and the last section is nonstop class 4 before a final quiet float down the Sapt Kosi. Some companies add on an extra day’s rafting on the lower section of the Tamur, from Mulghat down.
At the right flow it’s an incredible combination of white water, scenery, villages, and quiet and introspective evenings.
Note that a new highway is being built alongside the top 40km of the Sun Kosi; once complete (and no one knows when this will be), it’ll allow shorter six-day trips on the river and will also probably halve the return time from the take-out.
TAMUR
- Distance 120km
- Duration 11 days
- Start Dobhan
- Finish Chatara
- Brief description Remote expedition in the foothills of Kanchenjunga in the far east of the country; includes a three-day trek
Way out in the far east, this river combines one of the best short treks in Nepal with some really challenging white-water action. The logistics of this trip make it a real expedition, and while it is a little more complicated to run than many rivers in Nepal, the rewards are worth the effort.
First you have to get to Basantapur, a 15-hour drive from Kathmandu or a one-hour flight to Biratnagar and then a five-hour drive. Most expeditions begin with a stunning three- or four-day trek from Basantapur up over the Milke Danda Range, past the alpine lake of Gupha Pokhari to Dobhan. At Dobhan three tributaries of the Tamur join forces, combining the waters of the mountains to the north (including Kanchenjunga, the world’s third-largest mountain). The first 16km of rapids is intense, with rapid after rapid, and the white water just keeps coming through towering canyons until the big finale. The best time to raft is at medium flows between mid-October and mid-November.
OTHER RIVERS
The Upper Seti River, just outside Pokhara, makes an excellent half-day trip when it is at high flows. Trips operate in mid-September and October (class 3+) and cost US$40 to US$45 return from Pokhara.
The Balephi Khola (above the Bhote Kosi) is run by a few companies from Jalbire to its confluence with the upper Sun Kosi. Trips normally run only when the river is high from mid-September to early November and in May, and cost US$90 to US$110 for a two-day trip that combines this river with the Upper Sun Kosi.
The Bheri River, which is in the west, is a great float trip with incredible jungle scenery and lots of wildlife, making it a possible family trip. This is also one of Nepal’s best fishing rivers and can be combined with a visit to the Bardia National Park.
The powerful Arun River from Tumlingtar makes an excellent three-day wilderness trip with good class 3 rapids and pristine canyons, although the logistics of flying into the start of the river and getting gear there makes it an expensive trip.
Return to beginning of chapter
CLIMBING & TREKKING PEAKS
Bivouacked somewhere between trekking and mountaineering are Nepal’s ‘trekking peaks’. The name ‘trekking peak’ can be quite deceiving; they vary in their level of difficulty but most include significant mountaineering challenges. They are the natural first step if you are interested in progressing from trekking and scrambling onto crampon and rope work.
Nepa Maps produces several trekking peak maps, including to Paldor, Island Peak, Mera Peak, Chulu, Pisang and Naya Kanga, with scales ranging from 1:30,000 to 1:80,000.
Organised Climbs
Because of the bureaucracy involved (Click here), it is easiest to use an adventure travel company to organise the climb, rather than do the running around yourself. Trip permit fees are included in all the prices listed in this section.
Equator Expeditions is one company that organises mountaineering courses and ascents of Mera and Island Peaks in the Solu Khumbu region. If you sign up for a climb you can often get discounts on its other trips, such as a free two-day Bhote Kosi raft or US$50 off a kayak clinic.
Equator operates a six-day course and ascent of Island Peak, properly known as Imja Tse (6189m), from a base in Chhukung. After acclimatisation, briefing, training and a half-day hike to base camp, the peak is generally climbed in a single eight-hour day, departing early in the morning. It’s physically demanding but not technically difficult – only the last section is on ice and snow. The north ridge offers a slightly more difficult route option. Trips run weekly in season (mid-October to mid-November, end March to May) and cost US$700. Climbing guides report that Island Peak is becoming more of a technical climb because of ice melting caused by global warming. Sections that it used to be possible to cover with jumars (ascenders) on fixed ropes, and limited use of crampons and ice axes, now require some actual technical rock climbing.
The second most popular option is to the false summit of Lobuche East (6119m), a more technically difficult ascent that requires two days’ training. Climbers generally depart from a high camp at 1.30am and are back by noon. The six-day round trip from Dzongla costs around US$700. Trips operate in November and from mid-April to mid-May.
Also in the Everest region, Mera Peak (6476m) involves more trekking than climbing, though it is the highest of the trekking peaks. It’s a minimum 15-day trip from Lukla and involves trekking up to the 5415m Mera La, from where the climbing begins. Trips from Kathmandu cost around US$2000 and run in November, April and May. Don’t confuse Mera Peak with Mehra Peak (Kongma Tse), further north.
Other possible trekking peak ascents in the Everest region include Phari Lapche (6017m), Macchermo (6273m) and Kyozo/Kyajo Ri (6186m), all in the stunning Gokyo Valley.
For all of these trips you will need to hire your own plastic climbing boots and gaiters, either from Kathmandu (Shona’s rents climbing boots; Click here) or Namche Bazaar. Prices include permits, equipment, guides, tent accommodation and food. Expect a group size of around six to eight climbers.
Bill O’Connor’s book The Trekking Peaks of Nepal gives a detailed description of the climb to each of the 18 traditional peaks plus the approach trek to the mountain. Equipment, applications, procedures and other matters are comprehensively covered but there’s little information on the new ‘A’ trekking peaks.
In the Annapurna region, Pisang Peak (6091m) and Chulu East (6584m) are both five-day excursions from Manang; the former is more common, with an organised trip costing around US$1200, with a minimum of three climbers. A few companies, such as the UK’s Himalayan Frontiers (www.himalayanfrontiers.co.uk), run climbing trips to Tharpu Chuli/Tent Peak (5663m) from Machhapuchhare Base Camp in the Annapurna Sanctuary.
Several companies, including Mountain Monarch, run trekking peaks as part of a standard trek. In the Everest region this includes the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak (21 to 23 days, US$1750) or Lobuche East (25 days, US$1990). Pisang Peak or Chulu West can be combined with the Annapurna Circuit Trek (24 to 25 days, US$1650 to US$1950). Yala Peak (5500m) can be included as part of a 16-day Langtang trek (US$1500).
Trekking companies in Kathmandu that organise ascents of trekking peaks include the following:
- Climb High Himalaya ( 01-4372874; www.climbhighhimalaya.com; Kathmandu)
- Equator Expeditions (Map; 01-4700782; www.equatorexpeditionsnepal.com, www.nepalgate.com; Thamel, Kathmandu)
- Himalayan Ecstasy (Map; 01-4700795; www.himalayanecstasy.com; Kathmandu) Offers Island and Lobuche Peaks together in one trip for US$1000.
- Mountain Monarch ( 01-4361668; www.mountainmonarch.com; Lazimpat, Kathmandu)
- Namaste Adventure ( 01-4700239; www.namasteadventure.com) From trekking peaks to full-on mountaineering trips.
- Nepal Mountain Trekking (Map; 01-4700006; www.nepalmountain.com) Across from Northfield Cafe; generally a bit more expensive.
Permits & Fees
To arrange your own climbing trip, a permit is required from the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA; Map; 01-4434525; www.nepalmountaineering.org; PO Box 1435, Nag Pokhari, Kathmandu). Permits must be applied for in advance and are only valid for one month, although weekly extensions are available for 25% of the total fee. All people ascending trekking peaks must be accompanied by a sirdar (leader) who is registered with the NMA.
Of the 33 ‘trekking peaks’ the 15 ‘new’ peaks designated in 2002 are classified as ‘A’ peaks, the original 18 (including all those covered earlier) are ‘B’ peaks. The fees for climbing trekking peaks depend on the group size and the classification. For group ‘B’ peaks the fees are: one to four people US$350; five to eight people US$350 for the group plus US$40 per person; nine to 12 people (the maximum group size) US$510 plus US$25 per person. For group ‘A’ peaks the fees are: one to seven people US$500; eight to 12 people US$500 plus US$100 per person.
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Kathmandu | 
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HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
SIGHTS
ACTIVITIES
WALKING TOURS
COURSES
KATHMANDU FOR CHILDREN
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
ENTERTAINMENT
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
AROUND KATHMANDU
SWAYAMBHUNATH
AROUND SWAYAMBHUNATH
For many, stepping off a plane into Kathmandu is a pupil-dilating experience, a riot of sights, sounds, colours and smells that can quickly lead to sensory overload. Whether you’re barrelling down the atmospheric winding streets of the old town in a rickshaw, marvelling at the exquisite medieval temples of Durbar Sq or dodging the tiger balm sellers and trekking touts in Thamel, Kathmandu can be an intoxicating, amazing and exhausting place.
As the largest city in the country, Kathmandu is regularly paralysed by political ferment, electricity cuts and traffic seizures on a scale that is almost apocalyptic. Town planning is not Kathmandu’s greatest strength. The fact that the city keeps moving at all is a testament to the patience and equanimity of its people. Take a walk through the backstreets, however, and the capital’s rich cultural and artistic heritage reveals itself in hidden temples overflowing with marigolds, courtyards full of drying chillies and rice, and tiny hobbit-sized workshops.
Since the 1960s Kathmandu has been supplying the closest thing backpackers have to Disneyland and, with over 2500 tourist-related business in 5 sq kilometres, Thamel boasts a collection of hotels, restaurants, trekking agencies, bakeries and shops that is rivalled only by Bangkok’s Khao San Rd. This endlessly fascinating, sometimes infuriating, city is well worth a week of your time, but it’s easy to spend too much time stuck in touristy Thamel. Enjoy the internet cafes, the espresso and the lemon cheesecake, but make sure you also get out into the ‘real Nepal’ before your time runs out.
HIGHLIGHTS
- Follow our walking tours through the labyrinthine backstreets of the old town, bursting with hidden courtyards and little-known temples
- Soak up the amazing architectural monuments of Durbar Square, an artistic and architectural tradition that rivals the great cities of Europe
- Dine on momos and wild boar to the beat of madal drums and bansari flutes at one of the city’s superb Newari restaurants
- Ensure the enduring love of friends and family by snapping up the bargains in Thamel’s excellent shops
- Chill out in one of Thamel’s rooftop garden restaurants, with a good book, a pot of masala tea and a slice of chocolate cake
- Take a day trip to the nearby Unesco World Heritage site of Swayambhunath
- TELEPHONE CODE: 01
- Population: 1 million
- Elevation: 1337m
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HISTORY
The history of Kathmandu is really a history of the Newars, the main inhabitants of the Kathmandu Valley. While the documented history of the valley goes back to the Kiratis, around the 7th century BC, the foundation of Kathmandu itself dates from the 12th century AD, during the time of the Malla dynasty.
The original settlements of Yambu and Yangala, at the confluence of the Bagmati and Vishnumati Rivers in what is now the southern half of the old town, grew up around the trade route to Tibet. Traders and pilgrims stayed at resthouses such as the Kasthamandap (Click here), which later lent its name to the city.
Originally known as Kantipur, the city flourished during the Malla era, and the bulk of its superb temples, buildings and other monuments date from this time. Initially, Kathmandu was an independent city within the valley, but in the 14th century the valley was united under the rule of the Malla king of Bhaktapur. The 15th century saw division once more, this time into the three independent kingdoms: Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. Rivalry between the three city-states led to a series of wars that left each state weakened and vulnerable to the 1768 invasion of the valley by Prithvi Narayan Shah.
The ensuing Shah dynasty unified Nepal and made the expanded city of Kathmandu its new capital – a position the city has held ever since.
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ORIENTATION
The most interesting part of Kathmandu is the crowded backstreets of the rectangular-shaped old town. This is bordered to the north by the main tourist and backpacker district of Thamel (pronounced tha-mel) and to the east by the sprawling modern new town.
In the centre of the old town is historic Durbar Sq and Hanuman Dhoka (the old royal palace). Freak St, the focus of Kathmandu’s overland scene during the hippie era, runs south from here. Thamel is 15 to 20 minutes’ walk north from Durbar Sq.
Running east from Durbar Sq is New Rd, constructed after the great earthquake of 1934, and one of the main shopping streets in town. At the eastern end are the offices of Nepal Airlines. South of the junction of New Rd and Kantipath is the main post office and Sundhara district, easily located by the minaretlike Bhimsen Tower.
The street known as Kantipath forms the boundary between the older and newer parts of the city. On the east side of Kantipath is a large, open parade ground known as Tundikhel, and on the eastern edge of this is the Ratna Park (City) bus station for buses around the Kathmandu Valley.
North of the Tundikhel is Durbar Marg, a wide street flanked by airline offices, restaurants and expensive hotels; at its northern end is the New Royal Palace, which is slated to become a museum. Further north are the embassy and NGO districts of Lazimpat and Maharajganj. To the south of town is Patan (Click here), an historically distinct city, which has now partially merged with Kathmandu’s southern sprawl.
Both Kathmandu and Patan are encircled by the Ring Rd. The main Kathmandu bus station is on this road in the north of the city; Tribhuvan Airport is on its eastern edge.
Addresses
In old Kathmandu, streets are only named after their district, or tole. The names of these districts, squares and other landmarks (perhaps a monastery or temple) form the closest thing to an address. For example, the address of everyone living within a 100m radius of Thahiti Tole is Thahiti Tole. ‘Thamel’ is now used to describe a sprawling area with at least a dozen roads and several hundred hotels and restaurants.
Given this anarchic approach it is amazing that any mail gets delivered – it does, but slowly. Most businesses have post office boxes. If you’re trying to find a particular house, shop or business, make sure you get detailed directions. Otherwise, the interactive online map at www.mapmandu.com can sometimes help.
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INFORMATION
Bookshops
Kathmandu has excellent bookshops with a great selection of Himalaya titles, including books that are not usually available outside the country. Most dealers will buy back books for 50% of what you paid.
- Barnes & Noble Bookhouse (Map; Thamel)
- Mandala Bookpoint (Map; Kantipath) Excellent selection, with a good range in French.
- Nepal Book Depot (Map; Thamel) Some of the best prices.
- New Tibet Book Store (Map; 4415788; Tridevi Marg) The best collection of Tibet-related titles but few discounts.
- Pilgrims Book House (Map; 4424942; www.pilgrimsbooks.com, www.pilgrimsonlineshop.com) A couple of doors north of the Kathmandu Guest House; the best in town and particularly strong on antiquarian travelogues. There are a couple of smaller branches around town.
- United Books (Map; Thamel) Well-chosen selection and sensible prices, run by Danish Lars. Branches across town at Northfield Cafe and elsewhere.
- Vajra Books (Map; 4220562; www.vajrabooks.com.np; Jyatha) This knowledgeable local publisher offers an excellent selection of academic books and will post books internationally. There’s a branch across the road.
Emergency
- Ambulance service ( 4521048) Provided by Patan Hospital.
- Fire Brigade ( 101, 4221177)
- Police (Map; 100, 4223011; Durbar Sq)
- Red Cross Ambulance ( 4228094)
- Tourist Police Bhrikuti Mandap ( 4247041); Thamel ( 4700750)
Internet Access
Cybercafes are everywhere in Thamel. The best have scanners and printers (Rs 10 per page) plus, importantly, power backup. Connection speeds are generally fast and the rates are standard at around Rs 50 per hour.
If you have your own laptop you can get free wireless internet access at a few places such as the New Orleans Cafe (Click here). Alternatively, invest in a WorldLink wireless card (Rs 250 for five hours online) and access wi-fi at dozens of places across town, including Himalayan Java and the Garden of Dreams. Other places such as the Kathmandu Guest House offer their own wi-fi for variable rates.
Laundry
Several laundries across Thamel will machine wash laundry for Rs 50 per kilo. Get it back the next day or pay double for a three-hour service. Amazingly, it all comes back relatively clean, even after a three-week trek. Power cuts can delay wash times so don’t cut it too fine by handing in your laundry the day before your flight.
Libraries
- Kaiser Library (Map; 4411318; Ministry of Education & Sports compound, cnr Kantipath & Tridevi Marg; 10am-5pm Sun-Thu, 10am-3pm Fri) Also known as the Keshar Library, this place is definitely worth a visit. The main reading room has antique globes, a stuffed tiger and suits of armour that you expect to spring to life at any moment. The library has a remarkable collection of antique travel books, with Nepal titles on the upper floor.
Medical Services
- Bir Hospital (Map; 4221119) Government hospital where terminally ill Nepalis come to die; not recommended.
- CIWEC Clinic Travel Medicine Center (Map; 4424111; www.ciwec-clinic.com; 9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri) Just across from the British embassy, to the northeast of Thamel and used by many foreign residents. It has operated since 1982 and has developed an international reputation for research into travellers’ medical problems. The clinic is staffed mostly by foreigners and a doctor is on call around the clock. A consultation costs around US$55. Credit cards are accepted and they are used to dealing with insurance claims.
- CIWEC Dental Clinic (Map; 4440100, emergency 4424111; [email protected]) US dentist on the top floor of CIWEC Clinic (see above).
- Healthy Smiles (Map; 4420800; www.smilenepal.com) UK-trained dentist, opposite the Hotel Ambassador.
- Nepal International Clinic (Map; 4434642, 4435357; www.nepalinternationalclinic.com; 9am-1pm & 2-5pm) Just south of the New Royal Palace, east of Thamel. It has an excellent reputation and is slightly cheaper than the CIWEC Clinic. A consultation costs about US$40 (US$50 at weekends). Credit cards accepted.
- NORVIC Hospital (Map; 4258554; www.norvichospital.com; Thapathali) Private Nepali hospital with a good reputation for cardiology.
- Patan Hospital (Map; 5522295; www.patanhospital.org.np) Probably the best hospital in the Kathmandu Valley, in the Lagankhel district of Patan. Partly staffed by Western missionaries.
- Tribhuvan University Teaching Hospital (Map; 4412808, 4412363; Maharajganj) Reasonably well equipped (and carrying a ventilator); northeast of the centre.
KATHMANDU IN…
Two Days
Start off with the two-hour walking tour, ‘South from Thamel to Durbar Square’. Grab lunch overlooking Basantapur Sq or in nearby Freak St and then spend the afternoon taking in the architectural grandeur of Durbar Square. Finish the day with a cold beer and dinner in Thamel.
Next day walk out to Swayambhunath in the morning and spend the afternoon shopping in Thamel. For your final meal splurge at one of the blowout Newari restaurants like Bhojan Griha or Nepali Chulo (Click here).
Four Days
If you have an extra couple of days, take a short taxi ride out to Patan for a full day exploring its Durbar Square, Patan Museum (the best in the country) and more fascinating backstreets.
After an early lunch on day four, take a taxi to Pashupatinath and then make the short walk out to Bodhnath to soak up some Tibetan culture as the sun sets.
If you are in town on a Friday, splurge on the Friday barbecue at Dwarika’s Hotel.
One Week
With a week up your sleeve you can spend a day at Bhaktapur. At the beginning of the week sign up for a two-day rafting or canyoning trip up at Borderlands or Last Resort. When stress levels build, fit in some quiet time at the delightful Garden of Dreams.
Seven days gives you the chance to gorge on Thai (Krua Thai), Indian (Third Eye), Korean (Hankook Sarang), South Indian dosas (Dudh Sagar), yak steak (K-Too), felafel (Or2k) and maybe even some Nepali food! Don’t get us started on lunch…
There are several good pharmacies in Thamel, including the KB Drug Store (Map; 4251567; 8am-9pm), on Chhetrapati Chowk, which offers knowledgeable English-speaking advice and all the cheap antibiotics you can pronounce.
Money
It is worth checking banks’ exchange rates and commission – both vary. There are also dozens of licensed moneychangers in Thamel. Their hours are longer than those of the banks (until 8pm, later if things are busy) and rates are pretty consistent, though slightly lower than the banks. Click here for information on exchange rates, commissions and transfers.
- Himalayan Bank (Map; 4250208; www.himalayanbank.com; Tridevi Marg; 8am-8pm Sun-Fri) The most convenient bank for travellers in Thamel is in the basement of the Sanchaya Kosh Bhawan shopping centre. You can change cash (no commission) and travellers cheques (commission of 0.75%, minimum Rs 150), get cash advances on a Visa card and access its nearby ATM, in front of the Tridevi Temples.
- Sita World Travel (Map; 4248556; [email protected]; Tridevi Marg; 9am-6pm Sun-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) One of hundreds of local agents for Western Union money transfers and the closest to Thamel.
- Standard Chartered Bank (Map; 4418456; Lazimpat; 9.45am-7pm Sun-Thu, 9.45am-4.30pm Fri, 9.30am-12.30pm Sat & holidays) Has well-located ATMs – opposite the Third Eye Restaurant and in the compound of the Kathmandu Guest House – and others around town. The main branch in Lazimpat charges 1.5% (minimum Rs 300) to change travellers cheques and Rs 200 per transaction for cash. There’s no charge for a rupee cash advance on a credit card but you pay 2% to get the cash in US dollars.
- Yeti Travels (Map; 4226172; [email protected]; Kantipath; 10am-1pm & 2-4pm Sun-Fri) American Express (AmEx) agent, located on the 3rd floor of the Annapurna Arcade, above Thai Airways. It provides AmEx cash advances, encashment of travellers cheques, client mail services and is the place to come if your travellers cheques are stolen.
Other useful ATMs in the Thamel area are located beside Yin Yang Restaurant, United Books and Himalayan Java (Map).
Post
Most bookshops in Thamel, including Pilgrims Book House, sell stamps and deliver postcards to the post office, which is much easier than making a special trip to the post office yourself. Pilgrims charges a 10% commission for this service.
- Everest Postal Care (Map; 4417913; Tridevi Marg; 9.30am-5.30pm Sun-Fri) Convenient private post office near Thamel, which posts letters and parcels at the same rates as the post office.
- Foreign post office (Map; Sundhara; 10am-5pm Sun-Fri) Parcels can be sent from here, in a separate building just north of the main post office. Parcels have to be examined and sealed by a customs officer. Start the process before 2pm.
- Main post office (Map; Sundhara; 7am-6pm Sun-Thu, 7am-3pm Fri) Close to the Bhimsen Tower. Stalls in the courtyard sell air mail and padded envelopes. Poste restante is here. Get stamps at counter 12. You can post packages up to 2kg at counter 16; beyond that you need to go to the foreign post office.
Sending parcels from the foreign post office is something of an ordeal so, if you’re short of time, you’re best off using a cargo agency like Diki Continental Exports (Map; 4256919; www.dikiexports.com; JP School, Thamel).
Courier agencies include:
- DHL Kamaladi (Map; 4496248; www.dhl.com.np); Thamel (Map; 2012221; 11am-7pm Sun-Fri) The Thamel address is the less reliable of the two.
- FedEx (Map; 4269248; www.fedex.com/np; Kantipath; 9am-6pm Sun-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)
Telephone
You can make international telephone calls and send faxes from any of the dozens of ‘communication centres’ in Thamel and elsewhere throughout the city. The cheapest places charge around Rs 20 per minute, with internet phone calls as low as Rs 10. Click here for more information.
Tourist Information
There are a number of good notice boards in Thamel that are worth checking for information on apartments, travel and trekking partners, courses and cultural events. The Kathmandu Guest House has a good notice board, as do the Pumpernickel Bakery and Fire & Ice Restaurant.
For Kathmandu-based offices that offer trekking-related information Click here.
- Kathmandu Environmental Education Project (KEEP; Map; 4216775; www.keepnepal.org; 10am-5pm Sun-Fri) A good place for trekking reports, occasional lectures, a small collection of reference books, a cafe and a mineral-water refill service (Rs 10 per litre). They also sell biodegradable travel products such as anti-leech oil (Rs 90) and fair-trade beeswax lip balm, as well as water purification tablets (Rs 500). It’s also a good place to find a trek partner. Leave your shoes outside.
- Tourist Service Centre (Map; 4256909 ext 223, 24hr tourism hotline 4225709; www.welcomenepal.com; Bhrikuti Mandap; 10am-1pm, 2-5pm Sun-Fri) On the eastern side of the Tundikhel parade ground, the centre has a few brochures and maps but the location of the office is inconvenient. Get your TIMS card here (Click here).
Travel Agencies
Kathmandu has a great number of travel agencies, particularly along Durbar Marg, Kantipath and in Thamel. Click here for details of trekking agencies. Reliable places include:
- Flight Connection International (Map; 4258282; www.flightconnectionintl.com; Jyatha, Thamel) Good for flight tickets.
- President Travel & Tours (Map; 4220245; www.president-travels.com; Durbar Marg) Professional agency favoured by expats and wealthy Nepalis; particularly good at getting seats on heavily booked fights.
- Wayfarers (Map; 4266010; www.wayfarers.com.np; Thamel; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) For straight-talking travel and ticketing (particularly international air tickets) this is the place. The staff also book domestic Indian air and train e-tickets and offer Kathmandu Valley walking trips (Click here).
Visa Extensions
Central Immigration Office (Map; 4223590, 4222453; www.immi.gov.np; Maitighar; 10am-4.30pm Sun-Thu, 10am-3pm Fri, 11am-1pm Sat) Recently relocated to southeastern Kathmandu, this office offers relatively painless visa extensions. Get a form, join the queue, supply one photo and then join a separate queue to pay the fee. If you apply before 2pm you should get your passport back the same day at 3.30pm. Click here for more on visa extensions.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Kathmandu is sometimes the focus of political demonstrations, strikes and even occasional curfews. These generally just affect transport but they can turn violent so are best avoided. Bandhs (strikes) paralyse the city every now and then, closing shops and shutting down transport. Click here and Click here.
There aren’t many capital cities in the world where electricity is unavailable for up to 16 hours a day. Electricity cuts (‘load shedding’) are a fact of life in Kathmandu, especially in winter when water and thus hydro power levels are at their lowest. Electricity is currently rationed across the city, shifting from district to district every eight hours or so. Most hotels post a schedule of planned electricity cuts. Try to choose a hotel with a generator and make sure your room is far away from it.
The main annoyances in Thamel are the crazy motorcyclists, the pollution and the limpetlike hash/tiger balm/chess set sellers. Durbar Sq has some persistent wannabe guides. Note that the colourful sadhus (itinerant holy men) who frequent Durbar Sq will expect baksheesh (a tip) if you take a photo. The Thamel ‘holy men’ who anoint you with a tika on your forehead also expect a donation.
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SIGHTS
Most of the interesting things to see in Kathmandu are clustered in the old part of town, focused around the majestic Durbar Sq and its surrounding backstreets.
Durbar Square
Kathmandu’s Durbar Square (Map; foreigner/SAARC Rs 200/25, no student tickets) was where the city’s kings were once crowned and legitimised, and from where they ruled (durbar means ‘palace’). As such, the square remains the traditional heart of the old town and Kathmandu’s most spectacular legacy of traditional architecture, even though the king no longer lives in the Hanuman Dhoka – the palace was moved north to Narayanhiti about a century ago.
It’s easy to spend hours wandering around the square and watching the world go by from the terraced platforms of the towering Maju Deval; it’s a wonderful way to get a feel for the city. Although most of the square dates from the 17th and 18th centuries (many of the original buildings are much older), a great deal of damage was caused by the great earthquake of 1934 and many were rebuilt, not always in their original form. The entire square was designated a Unesco World Heritage site in 1979.
The Durbar Sq area is actually made up of three loosely linked squares. To the south is the open Basantapur Sq area, a former royal elephant stables that now houses souvenir stalls and off which runs Freak St. The main Durbar Sq area, with its popular watch-the-world-go-by temples, is to the west. Running northeast is a second part of Durbar Sq, which contains the entrance to the Hanuman Dhoka and an assortment of temples. From this open area Makhan Tole, at one time the main road in Kathmandu and still the most interesting street to walk down, continues northeast.
A good place to start an exploration of the square is with what may well be the oldest building in the valley, the unprepossessing Kasthamandap.
INFORMATION
The admission ticket to Durbar Sq is valid only for the date stamped. If you want a longer duration you need to go to the site office (Map; 4268969; www.kathmandu.gov.np; 7am-6.30pm), on the south side of Basantapur Sq, to get a free visitor pass, which allows you access for as long as your visa is valid. You will need your passport and one photo (no photo required for less than three days) and the process takes about two minutes. You generally need to show your ticket even if you are just transiting the square to New Rd or Freak St.
There is a toilet near the site office.
KASTHAMANDAP
Kathmandu owes its name to the Kasthamandap (Pavilion of Wood; Map). Although its history is uncertain, local tradition says the three-roofed building was constructed around the 12th century from the wood of a single sal tree. It first served as a community centre where visitors gathered before major ceremonies (a mandap is a 16-pillared pilgrim shelter), but later it was converted to a temple dedicated to Gorakhnath, a 13th-century ascetic who was subsequently linked to the royal family.
The last disciples were kicked out in the 1960s.
A central wooden enclosure houses the image of the god, which is noteworthy since Gorakhnath is usually represented only by his footprints. In the corners of the building are four images of Ganesh.
The squat, medieval-looking building is especially busy in the early morning hours when the valley’s vegetable sellers set up shop and porters sit awaiting customers. Piles of smoked fish, banana leaves and marigolds spill into the surrounding alleyways.
Across the square is the Kabindrapur Temple (Map), or Dhansa Dega, an ornate 17th-century performance pavilion that houses the god of music.
ASHOK BINAYAK
On the northern side of Kasthamandap, at the top of Maru Tole, stands the tiny golden Ashok Binayak (Map), or Maru Ganesh Shrine. The small size of this shrine belies its importance, as this is one of the four most important Ganesh shrines in the valley. Ganesh is a much-loved god and there is a constant stream of visitors, helping themselves to the self-serve tika dispenser and then ringing the bells at the back. A visit to this shrine is thought to ensure safety on a forthcoming journey so make an offering here if you are headed on a trek.
It’s uncertain how old the temple is, although its gilded roof was added in the 19th century. Look for the golden shrew (Ganesh’s vehicle) opposite the temple.
MARU TOLE
This tole leads you away from Durbar Sq down to the Vishnumati River, where a footbridge continues the pathway to Swayambhunath (Click here). This was a busy street in the hippy era but the famous pastry shops that gave it the nickname ‘Pie Alley’ have long gone. Just 30m from Durbar Sq down Maru Tole is Maru Hiti (off Map), one of the finest sunken water conduits in the city.
MAJU DEVAL
A pleasant half hour can easily be spent sitting on the steps of this Shiva temple. In fact the nine-stage ochre platform of the Maju Deval (Map) is probably the most popular meeting place in the city. From here you can watch the constant activity of fruit and vegetable hawkers, the comings and goings of taxis and rickshaws, and the flute and other souvenir sellers importuning tourists. The large, triple-roofed temple has erotic carvings on its roof struts and offers great views over the square and across the roofs of the city. Marigold sellers set up shop on the ground level.
The temple dates from 1690 and was built by the mother of Bhaktapur’s king Bhupatindra Malla. The temple has a Shiva lingam (phallic symbol) inside.
At the bottom of the temple stairway on the east side is a small white temple to Kam Dev, a ‘companion’ of Shiva. It was built in the Indian shikhara style, with a tall corncoblike spire.
EROTIC ART (OR HOW THEY DID IT IN ANCIENT TIMES)
The most eye-catching decorations on Nepali temples are the erotic scenes, often quite explicit, that decorate the roof struts, or tunala. These scenes are rarely the central carving on the strut; they’re usually the smaller carving at the bottom of the strut, like a footnote to the larger image. Nor are the carvings sensuous and finely sculptured like those at Khajuraho and Konark in India. In Nepal the figures are often smaller and cruder, even cartoonlike.
The themes have a Tantric element, a clear connection to the intermingling of Tibetan Buddhist and Hindu beliefs in Nepal, but their real purpose is unclear. Are they simply a celebration of an important part of the life cycle? Are they a more explicit reference to Shiva’s and Parvati’s creative roles than the enigmatic lingams and yonis scattered around so many temples? Or are they supposed to play some sort of protective role for the temple? It’s popularly rumoured that the goddess of lightning is a shy virgin who wouldn’t dream of striking a temple with such goings-on, although that’s probably more a tourist-guide tale than anything else.
Whatever the reason for their existence, these Tantric elements can be found on temples throughout the valley. Some temples reveal just the odd sly image, while others are plastered with the 16th-century equivalent of hard-core pornography, ranging from impressively athletic acts of intercourse to medieval ménages à trois, scenes of oral or anal intercourse or couplings with demons or animals.
The temples you may want to avoid showing your kids include Kathmandu’s Jagannath Temple, Basantapur Tower and Ram Chandra Temple; Patan’s Jagannarayan Temple; and Bhaktapur’s Erotic Elephants and Pashupatinath temples.
TRAILOKYA MOHAN NARAYAN TEMPLE
The other temple standing in the open area of the square is the smaller five-roofed Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple (Map), just to the south. Dating from 1680, it is easily identified as a temple to Narayan/Vishnu by the fine Garuda kneeling before it. This powerful stone figure was a later addition, erected by King Prithvibendra Malla’s widow soon after his death. Look for the Vaishnavite images on the carved roof struts and the window screens with their decoratively carved medallions. Dances depicting the 10 incarnations of Vishnu are performed on the platforms to the east of the temple during the Indra Jatra festival.
SHIVA-PARVATI TEMPLE
From the steps of the Maju Deval you can look north across to the Shiva-Parvati Temple (Map), also known as the Nawa Jogini Temple, where the much-photographed white images of Shiva and his consort look out from the upstairs window on the chaos below them. The temple was built in the late 1700s by Bahadur Shah, the son of Prithvi Narayan Shah. Although the temple is not very old by Kathmandu standards, it stands on a two-stage platform that may have been an open dancing stage hundreds of years earlier. A Narayan (Vishnu) temple (Map) stands to the west side.
KUMARI BAHAL
At the junction of Durbar and Basantapur Sqs is a red brick, three-storey building with some incredibly intricate carved windows. This is the Kumari Bahal (House of the Living Goddess; Map), home to the Kumari, the girl who is selected to be the town’s living goddess (see opposite) until she reaches puberty and reverts to being a normal mortal. The building, in the style of the Buddhist viharas (monastic abodes) of the valley, was built in 1757 by Jaya Prakash Malla.
Inside the building is the three-storey courtyard, or Kumari Chowk. It is enclosed by magnificently carved wooden balconies and windows, making it quite possibly the most beautiful courtyard in Nepal. Photographing the goddess is forbidden, but you are quite free to photograph the courtyard when she is not present.
The Kumari went on strike in 2005, refusing to appear at her window for tourists, after authorities denied her guardians’ request for a 10% cut of the square’s admission fees!
The courtyard contains a miniature stupa carrying the symbols of Saraswati, the goddess of learning. Non-Hindus are not allowed to go beyond the courtyard.
The large yellow gate to the right of the Kumari Bahal conceals the huge chariot that transports the Kumari around the city during the annual Indra Jatra festival (Click here). Look for the huge wooden runners in front of the Kumari Bahal that are used to transport the chariot. The wood is painted at the tips and considered sacred. You can see part of the chariot from the top of the nearby Trailokya Mohan Narayan Temple steps.
GADDHI BAITHAK
The eastern side of Durbar Sq is closed off by this white neoclassical building (Map). With its imported European style, it was built as part of the palace in 1908 during the Rana period and makes a strange contrast to the traditional Nepali architecture that dominates the square. It is said to have been modelled on London’s National Gallery following Prime Minister Jung Bahadur’s visit to Europe.
BHAGWATI TEMPLE
On the northwest corner of the Gaddhi Baithak, this triple-storey, triple-roofed temple (Map) is easily missed since it surmounts the building below it, which currently has thangka (Tibetan religious painting) shops along its front. The temple is actually part of the palace courtyard. The best view of the temple and its golden roofs is probably from the Maju Deval, across the square. The temple was built by King Jagat Jaya Malla and originally had an image of Narayan. This image was stolen in 1766 so, when Prithvi Narayan Shah conquered the valley two years later, he simply substituted it with an image of the goddess Bhagwati. In April each year the image of the goddess is conveyed to the village of Nuwakot, 65km to the north, then returned a few days later.
GREAT BELL
On your left as you leave the main square along Makhan Tole is the Great Bell (Map), elevated atop a white building erected by Rana Bahadur Shah (son of Prithvi Narayan Shah) in 1797. The bell’s ring drives off evil spirits, but it is only rung during puja (worship) at the Degutaleju Temple.
KUMARI DEVI
Not only does Nepal have countless gods, goddesses, deities, bodhisattvas, Buddhas, avatars (incarnations of deities) and manifestations – which are worshipped and revered as statues, images, paintings and symbols – but it also has a real living goddess. The Kumari Devi is a young girl who lives in the building known as the Kumari Bahal, right beside Kathmandu’s Durbar Sq.
The practice of having a living goddess probably came about during the reign of Jaya Prakash Malla, the last of the Malla kings of Kathmandu, whose reign abruptly ended with the conquest of the valley by Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768. As usual in Nepal, where there is never one simple answer to any question, there are a number of legends about the Kumari.
One such legend relates that a paedophile Malla king had intercourse with a prepubescent girl. She died as a result of this and, in penance, he started the practice of venerating a young girl as a living goddess. Another tells of a Malla king who regularly played dice with the goddess Taleju, the protective deity of the valley. When he made an unseemly advance she threatened to withdraw her protection, but relented and promised to return in the form of a young girl. Yet another tells of a young girl who was possessed by the goddess Durga and banished from the kingdom. When the furious queen heard of this she ordered her husband to bring the young girl back and keep her as a real goddess.
Whatever the background, in reality there are a number of living goddesses around the Kathmandu Valley, although the Kumari Devi, or Royal Kumari (as she was known for centuries) of Kathmandu is the most important. The Kumari is selected from a particular caste of Newari gold- and silversmiths. Customarily, she is somewhere between four years old and puberty and must meet 32 strict physical requirements ranging from the colour of her eyes and shape of her teeth to the sound of her voice. Her horoscope must also be appropriate, of course. Once suitable candidates have been found they are gathered together in a darkened room where terrifying noises are made, while men dance by in horrific masks and 108 gruesome buffalo heads are on display. These goings-on are unlikely to frighten a real goddess, particularly one who is an incarnation of Durga, so the young girl who remains calm and collected throughout this ordeal is clearly the new Kumari. In a process similar to the selection of the Dalai Lama, as a final test the Kumari then chooses items of clothing and decoration worn by her predecessor.
Once chosen as the Kumari Devi, the young girl moves into the Kumari Bahal with her family and makes only a half-dozen ceremonial forays into the outside world each year. The most spectacular of these occasions is the September Indra Jatra festival, when she travels through the city on a huge temple chariot over a three-day period. For centuries the Kumari customarily blessed the king of Nepal but now blesses the president.
The Kumari’s reign ends with her first period, or any serious accidental loss of blood. Once this first sign of puberty is reached she reverts to the status of a normal mortal, and the search must start for a new Kumari. During her time as a goddess the Kumari is supported by the temple income and, on retirement, she is paid a handsome dowry. It is said that marrying an ex-Kumari is unlucky, but it’s believed more likely that taking on a spoilt ex-goddess is likely to be too much hard work!
For an account of the life of a Kumari, check out From Goddess to Mortal, the story of Rashmilla Shakya, Kathmandu’s Kumari between 1984 and 1991, cowritten with Scott Berry. It’s available in Kathmandu bookstores.
Across from the great bell is a very ornate corner balcony (Map), decorated in gorgeous copper and ivory, from where members of the royal court could view the festival action taking place in Durbar Sq.
KRISHNA TEMPLE (CHYASIN DEGA)
The history of the octagonal Krishna Temple (Map) is well documented. It was built in 1648–49 by Pratap Malla, perhaps as a response to rival Siddhinarsingh’s magnificent Krishna Temple in Patan. Inside there are images of Krishna and two goddesses, which, according to a Sanskrit inscription, are modelled on the king and his two wives. The temple’s Newari inscription neglects to mention the king’s little act of vanity. The temple is a favourite of sadhus who pose (and expect to be paid) for photos here.
GREAT DRUMS & KOT SQUARE
Just beyond the temple are the Great Drums (Map), to which a goat and a buffalo must be sacrificed twice a year. In front of these is the police headquarters building. Beyond here is the closed-off Kot Sq, where Jung Bahadur Rana perpetrated the famous 1846 massacre that led to a hundred years of Rana rule (Click here). Kot means ‘armoury’ or ‘fort’. During the Dasain festival each year, blood again flows in Kot Sq as hundreds of buffaloes and goats are sacrificed. Young soldiers are supposed to lop off each head with a single blow.
KING PRATAP MALLA’S COLUMN
Across from the Krishna Temple is a host of smaller temples and other structures, all standing on a slightly raised platform in front of the Hanuman Dhoka and the towering Taleju Temple behind. The square stone pillar, known as the Pratap Dhvaja, is topped by a statue (Map) of the famous King Pratap Malla (1641–74), seated with folded hands and surrounded by his two wives and his five (including an infant) sons. He looks towards his private prayer room on the 3rd floor of the Degutaleju Temple. The column was erected in 1670 by Pratap Malla and preceded the similar columns in Patan and Bhaktapur.
This area and its monuments are usually covered in hundreds if not thousands of pigeons; you can buy packets of grain to feed them.
SETO (WHITE) BHAIRAB
Seto (White) Bhairab’s horrible face is hidden away behind a grille opposite King Pratap Malla’s column. The huge mask (Map) dates from 1794, during the reign of Rana Bahadur Shah, the third Shah-dynasty king. Each September during the Indra Jatra festival the gates are opened to reveal the mask for a few days. At that time the face is covered in flowers and rice; at the start of the festivities beer is poured through the horrific mouth as crowds of men fight to get a drink of the blessed brew (Click here). At other times of the year you can peek through the lattice to see the mask, which is used as the symbol of Nepal Airlines.
JAGANNATH TEMPLE
This temple (Map), noted for the erotic carvings on its roof struts, is the oldest structure in this part of the square. Pratap Malla claimed to have constructed the temple during his reign, but it may actually date back to 1563, during the rule of Mahendra Malla. The temple has a three-tiered platform and two storeys. There are three doors on each side of the temple, but only the centre door opens.
DEGUTALEJU TEMPLE
This triple-roofed temple (Map) is actually part of the Hanuman Dhoka, surmounting the buildings below it, but is most easily seen from outside the palace walls. The painted roof struts are particularly fine. Degutaleju is another manifestation of the Malla’s personal goddess Taleju. This temple was built by Shiva Singh Malla.
KALA (BLACK) BHAIRAB
North of the Jagannath Temple is the figure of Kala (Black) Bhairab (Map). Bhairab is Shiva in his most fearsome aspect, and this huge stone image of the terrifying Kala Bhairab has six arms, wears a garland of skulls and tramples a corpse, which is symbolic of human ignorance. The figure is said to have been brought here by Pratap Malla, having been found in a field to the north of the city. The image was originally cut from a single stone but the upper left-hand corner has since been repaired. It is said that telling a lie while standing before Kala Bhairab will bring instant death and it was once used as a form of trial by ordeal.
INDRAPUR TEMPLE
Immediately east of the horrific Bhairab stands the mysterious Indrapur Temple (Map). This puzzling temple may be of great antiquity but has been renovated recently and little is known of its history. Even the god to which it is dedicated is controversial – the lingam inside indicates that it is a Shiva temple but the Garuda image half-buried on the southern side indicates that it is dedicated to Vishnu. To compound the puzzle, however, the temple’s name clearly indicates it is dedicated to Indra! The temple’s unadorned design and plain roof struts, together with the lack of an identifying torana (pediment above the temple doors), offer no further clues.
KAKESHWAR TEMPLE
This temple (Map) just to the north was originally built in 1681 but, like so many other structures, was rebuilt after it was badly damaged in the 1934 earthquake. It may have been considerably altered at that time as the temple is a strange combination of styles. It starts with a Newari-style floor, above which is an Indian shikhara-style upper storey, topped by a spire shaped like a kalasa (water vase), indicative of a female deity.
STONE INSCRIPTION
On the outside of the white palace wall, opposite the Vishnu Temple (Map), is a long, low stone inscription (Map) to the goddess Kalika written in 15 languages, including one word of French. King Pratap Malla, renowned for his linguistic abilities, set up this inscription in 1664 and a Nepali legend tells that milk will flow from the spout in the middle if somebody is able to decipher all 15 languages!
KOTILINGESHWAR MAHADEV TEMPLE
This distinctive early stone Malla temple (Map) dates from the reign of Mahendra Malla in the 16th century. The three-stage plinth is topped by a temple in the gumbhaj style, which basically means a square structure topped by a bell-shaped dome. The bull facing the temple on the west side indicates that it is dedicated to Shiva.
MAHENDRESHWAR TEMPLE
At the extreme northern end of the square, this popular temple (Map) dates from 1561, during the reign of Mahendra Malla, and is always bustling with pilgrims. The te08mple was clumsily restored with marble in 1963 and is dedicated to Shiva. A small image of Shiva’s bull Nandi fronts the temple to the west and at the northeastern corner there is an image of Kam Dev. The temple has a wide, two-level plinth and a spire topped by a golden umbrella.
TALEJU TEMPLE
The square’s most magnificent temple (Map) stands at its northeastern extremity but is not open to the public. Even for Hindus admission is restricted; they can only visit it briefly during the annual Dasain festival.
The Taleju Temple was built in 1564 by Mahendra Malla. Taleju Bhawani was originally a goddess from the south of India, but she became the titular deity, or royal goddess, of the Malla kings in the 14th century, after which Taleju temples were erected in her honour in Patan and Bhaktapur, as well as in Kathmandu.
The temple stands on a 12-stage plinth and reaches more than 35m high, dominating the Durbar Sq area. The eighth stage of the plinth forms a wall around the temple, in front of which are 12 miniature temples. Four more miniature temples stand inside the wall, which has four beautifully carved wide gates. If entry to the temple were permitted it could be reached from within the Hanuman Dhoka or from the Singh Dhoka (Lion Gate) facing Durbar Sq.
On the west side of the compound wall look for the small shrine that has been crushed by the tree that sprouted from its roof decades ago, looking like something out of Cambodia’s Angkor Wat.
TANA DEVAL TEMPLE & MAKHAN TOLE
Directly across from the Taleju Temple is a 10th-century kneeling Garuda statue (Map), facing a small Vishnu Temple.
To your right, in a walled courtyard just past the long row of stalls, is the neglected Tana Deval Temple (Map), with three carved doorways and multiple struts, the latter of which show the multi-armed Ashta Matrikas (Mother Goddesses). It’s possible to enter the temple. Nearby shops sell brightly coloured Tibetan thangkas and their Newari equivalents, called paubhas.
Crowded and fascinating Makhan Tole (makhan is the Nepali word for butter, tole means street) starts from here and runs towards the busy marketplace of Indra Chowk (Click here). Makhan Tole was at one time the main street in Kathmandu and the start of the main caravan route to Tibet.
From here you can either head south to visit the Hanuman Dhoka or continue northeast up Makhan Tole back towards Thamel.
Hanuman Dhoka
The inner palace complex of the Hanuman Dhoka (Map; foreigner/SAARC Rs 250/25; 10.30am-4pm Tue-Sat Feb-Oct, 10.30am-3pm Tue-Sat Nov-Jan, 10.30am-2pm Sun) was originally founded during the Licchavi period (4th to 8th centuries AD) but, as it stands today, most of it was constructed by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. The royal palace has been renovated many times over the years. The oldest parts are the smaller Sundari Chowk and Mohan Chowk at the northern part of the palace (both closed). The complex originally housed 35 courtyards and spread as far as New Rd, but the 1934 earthquake reduced the palace to today’s 10 chowks (courtyards). Cameras are allowed only in the courtyards, not inside the buildings of the complex.
Hanuman’s brave assistance to the noble Rama during the exciting events of the Ramayana has led to the monkey god’s appearance guarding many important entrances. Here, cloaked in red and sheltered by an umbrella, a Hanuman statue (Map) marks the dhoka (entrance) to the Hanuman Dhoka and has even given the palace its name. The statue dates from 1672; the god’s face has long disappeared under a coating of orange vermillion paste applied by generations of devotees.
Standards bearing the double-triangle flag of Nepal flank the statue, while on each side of the palace gate are stone lions, one ridden by Shiva, the other by his wife Parvati. Above the gate a brightly painted niche is illustrated with a central figure of a ferocious Tantric version of Krishna. On the left side is the gentler Hindu Krishna in his traditional blue colour accompanied by two of his comely gopi (milkmaids). On the other side are King Pratap Malla and his queen.
NASAL CHOWK
From the entrance gate of the Hanuman Dhoka you immediately enter its most famous chowk. Although the courtyard was constructed in the Malla period, many of the buildings around the square are later Rana constructions. During that time Nasal Chowk was used for coronations, a practice that continued until as recently as 2001 with the crowning of King Gyanendra. The coronation platform (Map) is in the centre of the courtyard, while the nine-storey Basantapur (Kathmandu) Tower (Map) looms over the southern end of the courtyard.
The rectangular courtyard is aligned north–south and the entrance is at the northwestern corner. Just by the entrance there is a surprisingly small but beautifully carved doorway, which once led to the Malla kings’ private quarters.
Beyond the door is the large Narsingha Statue (Map), Vishnu in his man-lion incarnation, in the act of disembowelling a demon. The stone image was erected by Pratap Malla in 1673 and the inscription on the pedestal explains that he placed it here for fear that he had offended Vishnu by dancing in a Narsingha costume. The Kabindrapur Temple in Durbar Sq was built for the same reason.
Next is the Sisha Baithak or Audience Chamber (Map) of the Malla kings. The open verandah houses the Malla throne and contains portraits of the Shah kings.
PANCH MUKHI HANUMAN TEMPLE
At the northeastern corner of Nasal Chowk stands the Panch Mukhi Hanuman (Map) with its five circular roofs. Each of the valley towns has a five-storey temple, although it is the great Nyatapola Temple of Bhaktapur that is by far the best known. Hanuman is worshipped in the temple in Kathmandu, but only the priests may enter.
DANCING SHIVA STATUE
In Nepali nasal means ‘dancing one’, and Nasal Chowk takes its name from this Shiva statue (Map) hidden in the whitewashed chamber on the eastern side of the square.
TRIBHUVAN MUSEUM
The part of the palace west of Nasal Chowk, overlooking the main Durbar Sq area, was constructed by the Ranas in the middle to late part of the 19th century. Ironically, it is now home to a museum (Map) that celebrates King Tribhuvan (ruled 1911–55) and his successful revolt against their regime, along with memorials to Kings Mahendra (1955–72) and Birendra (1972–2001).
Exhibits with names such as ‘the Royal Babyhood’ include some fascinating re-creations of the foppish king’s bedroom and study, with genuine personal effects that give quite an eerie insight into his life. Some of the exhibits, such as the king’s favourite stuffed bird (looking a bit worse for wear these days!), his boxing gloves, the walking stick with a spring-loaded sword hidden inside and his dusty, drained aquarium, add some surreal moments. There are several magnificent thrones, plenty of hunting photos and the obligatory coin collection.
Halfway through the museum you descend before ascending the steep stairways of the nine-storey (or nau tale) Basantapur Tower (1770), which was extensively restored prior to King Birendra’s coronation. There are superb views over the palace and the city from the top. The struts along the facade of the Basantapur Tower, particularly those facing out to Basantapur Sq, are decorated with erotic carvings.
It’s hard not to rush through the second half of the museum, full of dull press clippings about the rather Peter Sellers-looking King Mahendra, before conveniently glossing over the massacre of King Birendra by his son in 2001 (see the boxed text). The museum exits into Lohan Chowk.
LOHAN CHOWK
King Prithvi Narayan Shah was involved in the construction of the four red-coloured towers around Lohan Chowk. The towers represent the four ancient cities of the valley: the Kathmandu or Basantapur Tower, the Kirtipur Tower, the Bhaktapur Tower or Lakshmi Bilas, and the Patan or Lalitpur Tower (known more evocatively as the Bilas Mandir, or House of Pleasure).
KATHMANDU’S ROYAL PALACES
Kathmandu is littered with hidden Rana-era palaces, some still in use, others crumbling in neglect. The most impressive is the royal palace of the Singh (or Singha) Durbar, built in 1907 and now home to Nepal’s government. With over 1700 rooms, it was once the largest private residence in Asia, until fire destroyed 90% of the complex in 1973. It’s not open to visitors.
The Keshar Mahal Palace (1895) still retains some atmosphere thanks to its creaky Kaiser Library and recently restored palace grounds (Click here), though its western wing was sold off long ago and developed as part of Thamel. One other notable former palace is the Electoral Commission Building, visible from Kantipath. At one point the building housed Kathmandu’s first hotel, the Royal, established by Boris Lissanevitch. Other notable palace conversions include the restaurants of 1905 Click here, Nepali Chulo and Gaddhi Baithak (both Click here).
Kathmandu’s most impressive palace is the huge Narayanhiti Palace, home to the royal family until 2008. The palace is currently being turned into a museum.
OTHER CHOWKS
The palace’s other courtyards are currently closed to visitors, but you can get glimpses of them from the Tribhuvan Museum and they might reopen at a future date.
North of Lohan Chowk, Mul Chowk was completely dedicated to religious functions within the palace and is configured like a vihara, with a two-storey building surrounding the courtyard. Mul Chowk is dedicated to Taleju Bhawani, the royal goddess of the Mallas, and sacrifices are made to her in the centre of the courtyard during the Dasain festival.
A smaller Taleju temple stands in the southern wing of the square and the image of the goddess is moved here from the main temple during the Dasain festival.
North of Nasal Chowk is Mohan Chowk, the residential courtyard of the Malla kings. It dates from 1649 and, at one time, a Malla king had to be born here to be eligible to wear the crown. (The last Malla king, Jaya Prakash Malla, had great difficulties during his reign, even though he was the legitimate heir, because he was born elsewhere.) The golden waterspout, known as Sundhara, in the centre of the courtyard delivers water from Budhanilkantha in the north of the valley. The Malla kings would ritually bathe here each morning.
North of Durbar Square
Hidden in the bustling and fascinating backstreets north of Durbar Sq is a dense sprinkling of colourful temples, courtyards and shrines.
The best way to get a feel for this district is on the walking tour ‘South from Thamel to Durbar Square’ (Click here).
KATHESIMBHU STUPA
The most popular Tibetan pilgrimage site in the old town is this lovely stupa (Map), a small copy dating from around 1650 of the great Swayambhunath complex. Just as at Swayambhunath, there is a two-storey pagoda to Harti, the goddess of smallpox, behind and to the right (northwest) of the main stupa. The entrance is flanked by metal lions atop red ochre concrete pillars, just a couple of minutes’ walk south of Thamel.
Various statues and a few smaller chaityas (small stupas) stand around the temple, including a fine standing Avalokitesvara statue enclosed in a glass case and protective metal cage in the northeast corner. Avalokitesvara carries a lotus flower in his left hand, and the Dhyani Buddha Amitabha is seen in the centre of his crown.
ASAN TOLE
From dawn until late the junction of Asan Tole (Map) is jammed with vegetable and spice vendors, making it the busiest square in the city. Every day, produce is carried to this popular marketplace from all over the valley, so it is fitting that the three-storey Annapurna Temple (Map) is dedicated to the goddess of abundance; Annapurna is represented by a purana bowl full of grain. At most times, but especially Sundays, you’ll see locals walk around the shrine, touch a coin to their heads, throw it into the temple and ring the bell above them.
Nearby the two-storey Ganesh shrine (Map) is coated in bathroom tiles. South is the Yita Chapal (Southern Pavilion) which was once used for festival dances (the dance platform out front is still visible). Cat Stevens wrote his hippie-era song Kathmandu in a smoky teahouse in Asan Tole, penning the lines: ‘Kathmandu I’ll soon be seeing you, and your strong bewildering time will hold me down.’
QUIRKY KATHMANDU
Kathmandu has more than its fair share of quirk and, as with most places in the subcontinent, a 10-minute walk in any direction will throw up numerous curiosities.
The corridors of the Natural History Museum (Click here) are full of bizarre moth-eaten animals and jars that lie somewhere between a school science experiment and The Texas Chainsaw Massacre. The 20ft python skin and nine-month old baby rhino in a jar are guaranteed to give you nightmares. The other exhibits are a bit slapdash, including the line of stuffed birds nailed carelessly to a bit of wood to indicate their distribution, or the big pile of elephant dung deposited randomly in the front corner. After all this fun the section on algae is a bit dull…
For items of personal quirkiness, the Tribhuvan Museum (Click here) in the Hanuman Dhoka palace offers up such gems as the king’s personal parachuting uniform, the king’s personal film projector and the king’s personal walking stick with a spring-loaded sword inside – very ‘007’.
The National Museum (Click here) also houses more than its fair share of weirdness, including the mandible of a whale (?), a portrait of King Prithvi Narayan Shah giving everyone the finger (apparently symbolising the unity of the nation…), and a man poking a fox in the arse with a stick, the significance of which passed us by completely.
Compared to all this funkiness, Kathmandu’s old town is pretty docile. Look for the antique fire engines (Map) hidden behind a grille just west of the junction of New Rd and Sukra Path. If you get a toothache during your trip, be sure to visit the old town’s toothache god (see ‘wood with coins’ in the South from Thamel to Durbar Square walk, Click here) – a raggedy old stump of wood covered with hundreds of nails and coins.
Finally, the roguish Indian snake charmers who set up shop on Tridevi Marg always raise a smile, as does the crazy sadhu, dressed as the god Hanuman in a very unrealistic monkey suit, who occasionally haunts Durbar Sq.
On the western side of the square are spice shops. Near the centre of the square, sandwiched between two potted trees, is a small Narayan shrine (Narayan is a form of Vishnu).
SETO MACHHENDRANATH TEMPLE (JAN BAHAL)
Southwest of Asan Tole at the junction known as Kel Tole, this temple (Map) attracts both Buddhists and Hindus – Buddhists consider Seto (White) Machhendranath to be a form of Avalokitesvara, while to Hindus he is a rain-bringing incarnation of Shiva. The temple’s age is not known but it was restored during the 17th century. The arched entrance to the temple is marked by a small Buddha figure on a high stone pillar in front of two metal lions.
In the courtyard there are lots of small shrines, chaityas and statues, including a mysteriously European-looking female figure surrounded by candles who faces the temple. It may well have been an import from Europe that has simply been accepted into the pantheon of gods. Facing the other way, just in front of the temple, are two graceful bronze figures of the Taras seated atop tall pillars. Buy some grain to feed the pigeons and boost your karma.
Inside the temple you can see the white-faced image of the god covered in flowers. The image is taken out during the Seto Machhendranath festival in March/April each year and paraded around the city in a chariot; Click here. You can follow the interior path that circles the central building.
In the courtyard you may see men standing around holding what looks like a bizarre string instrument. This tool is used to separate and fluff up the downlike cotton padding that is sold in bulk nearby. The string is plucked with a twang by a wooden double-headed implement that looks like a cross between a dumb-bell and a rolling pin.
As you leave the temple, to the left you’ll see the small, triple-roofed Lunchun Lunbun Ajima, a Tantric temple that’s red-tiled around the lower level and has some erotic carvings at the base of the struts at the back.
INDRA CHOWK
The busy street of Makhan Tole spills into Indra Chowk, the courtyard named after the ancient Vedic deity, Indra. Locals crowd around the square’s newspaper sellers, scanning the day’s news.
On the west side of the square is the facade of the Akash Bhairab Temple (Map), or Bhairab of the Sky Temple. From the balcony four metal lions rear out over the street. The temple’s entrance is at the right-hand side of the building, guarded by two more brass lions, but non-Hindus cannot enter. The silver image inside is visible through the open windows from out in the street, and during important festivals, particularly the Indra Jatra festival (September; Click here), the image is displayed in the square. A large lingam is also erected in the centre of the square at that time.
In a small niche just to the left of the Akash Bhairab Temple is a very small but much-visited brass Ganesh shrine.
Indra Chowk is traditionally a centre for the sale of blankets and cloth, and merchants cover the platforms of the Mahadev Temple (Map) to the north. The next-door stone Shiva Temple (Map) is a smaller and simplified version of Patan’s Krishna Temple (Click here).
ITUM BAHAL
The long, rectangular courtyard of the Itum Bahal (Map) is the largest Buddhist bahal (courtyard) in the old town and remains a haven of tranquillity in the chaotic surroundings. A small, white-painted stupa stands in the centre of the courtyard. On the western side of the courtyard is the Kichandra Bahal (Map) or ‘Keshchandra Paravarta Mahar Bihar’, one of the oldest bahals in the city, dating from 1381 and renovated in 2007. A chaitya in front of the entrance has been completely shattered by a Bodhi tree, which has grown right up through its centre. In autumn and winter the square is decorated in ornate swirling patterns of drying grain.
Inside the Kichandra Bahal is a central pagodalike sanctuary, and to the south is a small chaitya decorated with graceful standing bodhisattvas. On the northern side of the courtyard are four brass plaques mounted on the upper-storey wall. The one on the extreme left shows a demon known as Guru Mapa taking a misbehaving child from a woman and stuffing it greedily into his mouth. Eventually the demon was bought off with the promise of an annual feast of buffalo meat, and the plaque to the right shows him sitting down and dipping into a pot of food. With such a clear message on juvenile misbehaviour it is fitting that the courtyard houses a primary school – right under the Guru Mapa plaques!
To this day, every year during the festival of Holi the inhabitants of Itum Bahal sacrifice a buffalo to Guru Mapa on the banks of the Vishnumati River, cook it in the afternoon in the courtyard and in the middle of the night carry it in huge cauldrons to a tree in the Tundikhel parade ground where the demon is said to live.
NARA DEVI TEMPLE
Halfway between Chhetrapati and Durbar Sq, the Nara Devi Temple (Map) is dedicated to Kali, Shiva’s destructive consort. It’s also known as the Seto (White) Kali Temple. It is said that Kali’s powers protected the temple from the 1934 earthquake, which destroyed so many other temples in the valley. A Malla king once stipulated that a dancing ceremony should be held for the goddess every 12 years, and dances are still performed on the small dance platform that is across the road from the temple.
East of Thamel
THREE GODDESSES TEMPLES
Next to the modern Sanchaya Kosh Bhawan Shopping Centre in Thamel are the often ignored Three Goddesses Temples (Map). The street on which the temples are located is Tridevi Marg – tri means ‘three’ and devi means ‘goddesses’. The goddesses are Dakshinkali, Manakamana and Jawalamai, and the roof struts have some creative erotic carvings.
GARDEN OF DREAMS
Just two minutes’ walk, but a million miles from Thamel, is the beautifully restored Swapna Bagaicha, or Garden of Dreams (Map; 4425340; www.asianart.com/gardenofdreams; adult/child Rs 160/40, no student tickets; 9am-10pm), one of the most serene and beautiful enclaves in Kathmandu.
Field marshal Kaiser Shamser (1892–1964), whose palace the gardens complement, built the Garden of Dreams in the 1920s after a visit to several Edwardian estates in England, using funds won from his father (the prime minister) in an epic Rs 100,000 game of cowrie shells. The gardens and its pavilions suffered neglect to the point of collapse before they were lovingly brought back to life over a six-year period by the same Austrian-financed team that created the Patan Museum.
There are dozens of gorgeous details in the small garden, including the original gate, a marble inscription from Omar Khayam’s Rubaiyat, the new fountains and ponds, and a quirky ‘hidden garden’ to the south. Of the original four acres and six pavilions (named after the six Nepali seasons), only 1.2 acres and three pavilions remain. To truly savour the serenity, come armed with a book or picnic and relax on one of the supplied lawn mats. Wi-fi is available.
Dwarika’s operates the swanky Kaiser Cafe here (Click here) and there are occasional cultural events and exhibitions.
RANI POKHARI
This large fenced tank (Map) just off Kantipath is said to have been built by King Pratap Malla in 1667 to console his queen over the death of their son (who was trampled by an elephant). The pool (pokhari means pool or small lake) was apparently used during the Malla era for trials by ordeal and later became a favourite suicide spot.
Perhaps because of the high suicide rate, the gate to the tank and its central Shiva Temple is unlocked only one day each year, on the fifth day of the Tihar festival. The footbridge over the nearby chowk has the best views of Rani Pokhari. The chowk has rather optimistically been declared a no-horn zone!
Across Kantipath is a long imposing building originally known as the Durbar School, which was the first school in Nepal (1854). It has since been renamed the Bhanubhakta School, after the Nepali poet of that name.
South of Durbar Square
JAISI DEVAL TEMPLE
The south of Kathmandu’s old city was the heart of the ancient city in the Licchavi period (4th to 8th centuries) and its major temple is the tall, triple-roofed Jaisi Deval Temple (Map), built just two years before Durbar Sq’s famous Maju Deval (which is one platform higher). It’s a Shiva temple, as indicated by the bull on the first few steps and the mildly erotic carvings on some of the temple struts. Right across the road from the temple is a natural stone lingam rising a good 2m from a yoni (female equivalent of a phallic symbol). The monolith is definitely a god-sized phallic symbol and a prayer here is said to aid fertility.
In its procession around the town during the Indra Jatra festival (Click here), the Kumari Devi’s chariot pauses here. During its stop, dances are held on the small dance platform across the road from the temple.
West of the temple, enter the courtyard of the Ram Chandra Temple (Map), named after Ram, an incarnation of Vishnu and the hero of the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. This small temple is notable for the tiny erotic scenes on its roof struts; it looks as if the carver set out to illustrate 16 different positions, starting with the missionary position, and just about made it before running out of ideas (there’s one particularly ambitious, back-bending position). The north side of the courtyard is used as a cow stable, highlighting the wonderful mix of the sacred and profane in Nepal!
The temple is best visited as part of the walking tour ‘South from Durbar Square’ (Click here).
BHIMSEN TOWER (DHARAHARA)
Towering like a lighthouse over the labyrinthine old town, this white, minaretlike tower (Map; 4215616; foreigner/SAARC Rs 299/49, over 65 & under 5 years free, no student tickets; 8am-8pm) is a useful landmark near the post office. The views from 61.88m up – 213 steps above the city – are the best you can get. There is a small Shiva shrine right at the very top.
The tower was originally built in 1826 by the Rana prime minister, Bhimsen Thapa, for Queen Lalit as part of the city’s first European-style palace. It was rebuilt with nine storeys, two less than the original building, after it was severely damaged in the 1934 earthquake. The nearby Sundhara water tank is the largest in the city and lends its name to the district.
PACHALI BHAIRAB & THE SOUTHERN GHATS
The northern banks of the Bagmati River south of the old town are home to little-visited temples and shrines, as well as the worst urban poverty in Kathmandu; rarely do such splendour and squalor sit so close.
Between Tripureshwar Marg and the Bagmati River at Pachali Bhairab (Map) a huge, ancient pipal tree forms a natural sanctuary for an image of Bhairab Pachali, surrounded by tridents (Pachali is a form of Shiva). To the side lies the brass body of Baital, one of Shiva’s manifestations. Worshippers gather here on Tuesday and Saturday. It is particularly busy here during the festival of Pachali Bhairab Jatra (Click here).
From the temple you could explore the temples and ghats that line the holy, polluted Bagmati River. Head south of Pachali Bhairab to the ghats on the riverbank to find a collection of lovely statuary. To the south is the Newari-style pagoda of the Lakshmi Mishwar Mahadev (Map); to the southeast is the interesting Tin Deval Temple (Map), easily recognisable by its three shikhara-style spires.
From here you can continue west along footpaths to cremation ghats and a temple at the holy junction of the Bagmati and Vishnumati Rivers; or east past some of Kathmandu’s poorest and lowest-caste communities to the triple-roofed Tripureshwar Mahadev Temple (Map), currently under restoration to become a centre for street children. Further east is the Mughal-style Kalmochan Temple (Map) built in 1873.
Dhum Varahi Shrine
In an unprepossessing schoolyard just inside Kathmandu’s Ring Rd to the northeast of Kathmandu, a huge pipal tree encloses a small shrine (Map) and a dramatic 5th-century sculpture of Vishnu as a wild boar with a human body, holding Prithvi, the earth goddess, on his left elbow.
The statue is one of the earliest depictions of an animal-human, created before iconographic rules were established, which perhaps contributes to the unusual sense of movement and vitality that the statue possesses. The statue shows Vishnu rescuing Prithvi from the clutches of a demon.
To get here head north along the Ring Rd from Pashupatinath and take a left about 200m north of the bridge over the Dhobi River. The statue lies 100m down the dirt track, in the grounds of the Shridhumrabarah Primary School.
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ACTIVITIES
Click here for the various rafting, canyoning, climbing and bungee-jumping trips that you can arrange from Kathmandu.
For golfing near the capital, see the Gokarna Forest Resort, Click here.
Climbing
If you need to polish your climbing skills before heading to the mountains, try the Pasang Lhamu Climbing Wall (Map; 4370742; www.pasanglhamu.org; 10am-5.30pm) on the city’s northeastern edge. A day’s membership costs Rs 350 and equipment rental costs Rs 100. Week-long climbing courses and private tuition are available.
The wall is on the Ring Rd, near the Bangladesh embassy, and is part of the Pasang Lhamu Mountaineering Federation, named after the first Nepali woman to summit Everest, in 1993. A taxi here from central Kathmandu costs around Rs 200.
Pools & Fitness Centres
Generally, pools in the major hotels can be used by friends of hotel guests, or at some hotels by outsiders, for a charge. Yak & Yeti Hotel charges Rs 500 for a one-time use of its pools, plus Rs 500 for its health club.
The Clark Hatch Fitness Center (Map; 4411818) at the Radisson charges Rs 1050 for a day pass to its gym, while the Hyatt Regency charges Rs 1000 for its gym, pool, sauna, steam and Jacuzzi.
A decent health club for aerobics addicts is Banu’s Total Fitness (Map; 4434024; [email protected]; Kamal Pokhari; 6am-9pm Sun-Fri, 6-11am Sat), hidden down an alleyway southeast of the New Royal Palace. There are aerobics classes at 7am, 10.30am (women only) and 5.30pm, and regular yoga lessons (Rs 1500 per month). A visit costs Rs 200 for nonmembers, or Rs 375 with cardio machines and sauna.
DAY TRIPS FROM KATHMANDU
The great thing about Kathmandu is that there are so many fantastic sights just a couple of kilometres outside the city centre. You can check out any of the following sites and still be back in Thamel for the start of happy hour:
- Bhaktapur – Click here
- Patan – Click here
- Bodhnath – Click here
- Budhanilkantha – Click here
The Kamma Healing Centre (Map; 4256618; Babar Mahal Revisited) offers classes in t’ai chi, yoga, transcendental meditation and anything else you can dream up. Yoga classes cost Rs 400 per hour, t’ai chi Rs 4000 per month, or join the free meditation class at 4pm on Saturdays.
For more on other yoga, meditation and massage classes in Kathmandu, Click here.
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WALKING TOURS
A stroll around Kathmandu’s backstreets will lead the casual wanderer to dozens of hidden temples, shrines and sculptures, especially in the crowded maze of streets and courtyards in the area north of Durbar Sq. The fast-paced succession of sights, colours and sounds makes these walking tours a highlight of any visit to Kathmandu.
Both of the walks will take you to a number of markets, temples, toles, bahals, bahil (courtyard with accommodation) and chowks, which remain the focus of traditional Nepali life. You only really appreciate Kathmandu’s museumlike quality when you come across a 1000-year-old statue – something that would be a prized possession in many Western museums – being used as a plaything or a washing line in some communal courtyard.
The walks can be made as individual strolls or linked together into one longer walk. The first walking tour gives you a taste of the crowded and fascinating shopping streets in the oldest part of Kathmandu and takes you to some of the city’s most important temples. The second walking tour takes you to a lesser-known section of southern Kathmandu, without spectacular sites but where the everyday life of city dwellers goes on and tourists are much rarer.
If these walking tours leave you wanting more, pick up Annick Holle’s book Kathmandu The Hidden City (Rs 250), which details dozens of backstreet courtyards across town.
South from Thamel to Durbar Square
This walk is best made en route from Thamel to Durbar Sq, or vice versa. To get to Thahiti Tole, walk south from Thamel on the road from the main Thamel Chowk; the first square you come to is Thahiti.
Thahiti Tole wraps around a central stupa (1), whose stone inscription indicates that it was constructed in the 15th century. Legends relate that it was built over a pond plated with gold and that the stupa served to keep thieves at bay. Or perhaps the pond was full of dangerous snakes and the stupa kept the snakes in their place – the legends vary!
Nateshwar Temple (2), on the northern side of the square, is dedicated to a form of Shiva that doubles as the local Newari god of music; the metal plates that surround the renovated doors show creatures busily playing a variety of musical instruments.
Take the road heading south past shops selling prayer flags and Buddhist brocade, then bear west to the impressive Kathesimbhu Stupa (3; Click here), radiating colourful prayer flags. There are lots of malla (prayer beads) stalls in the square, as well as a little teahouse if energies are already flagging.
Just 10m further on your right, a single broken stone lion (his partner has disappeared) guards a passageway to the small enclosed courtyard of the Nag Bahal (4), signed as the ‘Ratna Mandal Mahabihar’, with painted murals above the shrine.
Further down on the left, past a Ganesh statue, is a small recessed area and a dark grilled doorway marking a small but intricate central stone relief (5) dating from the 9th century. It shows Shiva sitting with Parvati on Mt Kailash, her hand resting proprietarily on his knee in the pose known as Uma Maheshwar. Various deities and creatures, including Shiva’s bull Nandi, stand around them. To the right of the door is an almost unrecognisable orange-coloured Ganesh head. Incidentally, the impressive wooden balcony across the road is said to have had the first glass windows in Kathmandu (it looks like it’s the same glass!).
Continue south past a string of dentists’ shops (the reason will soon become clear), advertised by signs showing a grinning mouthful of teeth. When you hit a square you’ll see a small, double-roofed Sikha Narayan Temple (6), easily identified by the kneeling Garuda figure facing and the modern clock on the wall. The temple houses a beautiful 10th- or 11th-century four-armed Vishnu figure that you might be able to see through the grill. Just to the north is a fine image of the goddess Saraswati playing her lute at the Saraswati shrine (7), with a Shiva shrine beside it.
WALK FACTS
Start Thahiti Tole
Finish Durbar Sq
Distance 2km
Duration two hours
In the middle of the nondescript northern frontage, directly beneath the ‘Raj Dental Clinic’ sign, is a standing Buddha statue (8) framed by modern blue and white tilework. The image is only about 60cm high but dates from the 5th or 6th century. It’s a reminder of the casual treatment of artistic treasures.
At the southern end of the area, just across the crossroads on the corner, you will see a lump of wood with coins (9) into which thousands of coins have been nailed. The coins are offerings to the toothache god, which is represented by a tiny image in the grotesque lump of wood. The square at the junction is known as Bangemudha, which means ‘Twisted Wood’.
Head east to the triple-roofed Ugratara Temple (10) by a small square known as Nhhakantalla; a prayer at the shrine is said to work wonders for the eyes. Just further on your right you will pass the Krishna Music Emporium (maker and repairer of harmoniums), before spotting a gated entrance on the right that leads into Haku Bahal (11). Look for the sign that advertises ‘Opera Eye Wear’. This tiny bahal has a finely carved wooden window overlooking the courtyard.
SETO MACHHENDRANATH FESTIVAL
Kathmandu’s Seto (White) Machhendranath festival kicks off a month prior to the much larger and more important Rato (Red) Machhendranath festival in Patan (Click here). The festival starts with removing the image of Seto Machhendranath from the temple at Kel Tole and placing it on a towering and creaky wooden temple chariot known as a rath. For the next four evenings, the chariot proceeds slowly from one historic location to another, eventually arriving at Lagan in the south of Kathmandu’s old town. There the image is taken down from the chariot and carried back to its starting point in a palanquin while the chariot is disassembled and put away until next year.
You’ll soon come to the bustling chowk of Asan Tole (Click here), old Kathmandu’s busiest junction and a fascinating place to linger. The diagonal southwest-to-northeast main road was for centuries the main commercial street in Kathmandu, and the start of the caravan route to Tibet. It was not replaced as Kathmandu’s most important street until the construction of New Rd after the great earthquake of 1934. The main shrine here is the Annapurna Temple (12).
The street continues southwest past the octagonal Krishna Temple (13), jammed between gleaming brass shops. It looks decrepit, but the woodcarvings on this temple are very elaborate, depicting beaked monsters and a tiny Tibetan protector, holding a tiger on a chain like he’s taking the dog for a walk. Look for the turn-of-the-century plaques depicting marching troops on the building to the left.
The next square is Kel Tole, where you’ll find one of the most important and ornate temples in Kathmandu, the Seto (White) Machhendranath Temple (14; Click here). Just to the north of the temple on the side street known as Bhedasingh is a collection of shops selling topi (cloth hats) and the Nepali traditional dress known as a daura suruwal, (a long shirt over tapered drainpipe trousers), including adorable miniature versions for children.
The busy shopping street spills into Indra Chowk, marked by the stepped Mahadev Temple and Akash Bhairab Temple (15; Click here). From the south of the square, wide Sukra Path leads to New Rd; the shops along this road sell consumer goods imported from Hong Kong and Singapore, and many of them end up in India.
Before you leave Indra Chowk, look for the market hidden in the alleyways to the east, crowded with stalls selling the glass bangles and beads that are so popular with married Nepali women.
Take the quiet alleyway west from Indra Chowk and, after 200m or so, look for a tiny entryway to the right, by a shrine and under the sign for ‘Jenisha Beauty Parlour’. The entryway leads into the long, rectangular courtyard of Itum Bahal, one of the oldest and largest bahals in the city, with some lovely architecture and stupas. Click here for more on this and the Kichandra Bahal (16).
Exit the courtyard at the north and turn left (west). On your right at the next junction is the Nara Devi Temple (17; Click here). Just to the south of the dance platform (18) is a small shop occupied by one of Kathmandu’s many marching bands, mainly used for weddings – look for gleaming tubas, red uniforms and tuneless trumpeting. Just visible across the road is a three-roofed Narsingha Temple (19) but it’s almost impossible to find through a maze of small courtyards (you can see the roof from the dance platform).
At the Nara Devi corner, turn left (south); after 30m or so you come to a nondescript photocopy/magazine shop on your left with an utterly magnificent wooden window (20) above it. It has been called deshay madu in Nepali, which means ‘there is not another one like it’. Next door in a small courtyard is the recently restored triple-roofed Bhulukha Dega Temple (21), dedicated to Shiva.
Further south, on the right is the entrance to the Yatkha Bahal (22), a huge open courtyard with a central stupa that looks like a mini-Swayambhunath. Directly behind it is an old building, whose upper storey is supported by four superb carved-wood struts. Dating from the 12th to 13th century, they are carved in the form of yakshas (attendant deities or nymphs), one of them gracefully balancing a baby on her hip. The struts were restored in 2002 by the Department of Architecture, Unesco and the Kathmandu Valley Preservation Trust.
Back on the road you’ll see the deep red brick temple (23) to Chaumanda, a Newari mother goddess, that features a six-pointed star on the side. Head south again, past the music shops on the right, to Durbar Sq, your final destination for this walk.
South from Durbar Square
Starting from the Kasthamandap in Durbar Sq (Click here), a circular walk can be made to the older parts in the south of the city. This area is not as packed with historical interest as the walk north of Durbar Sq, but the streets are less crowded and you are unlikely to run into other tourists.
Starting from the Kasthamandap (1; Click here) in the southwestern corner of Durbar Sq, the road out of the square forks almost immediately around the Singh Sattal (2), built with wood left over from the Kasthamandap Temple. The squat building has some fascinating stalls and curd shops on the ground floor and golden-winged lions guarding each corner of the upper floor and is a popular place for bhajan (devotional music) in the mornings and evenings. The building was originally called the Silengu Sattal (silengu means ‘left over wood’ and a sattal is a pilgrim hostel) until the addition of the singh (guardian lions).
WALK FACTS
Start Durbar Sq
Finish Durbar Sq
Distance 2km
Duration one hour
Take the road running diagonally to the right of this building, past a Shiva temple with a finely carved pilgrim shelter, and you eventually come to the large stone hiti (3), or water tank, where people will usually be washing clothes.
Immediately beyond is the highly decorated Bhimsen Temple (4), which is fronted by a brass lion on a pedestal ducking under the electric wires and has white-painted snow lions guarding the two front corners. Bhimsen is supposed to watch over traders and artisans, so it’s quite appropriate that the ground floor of this well-kept temple should be devoted to shop stalls. An image of Bhimsen used to be carried to Lhasa in Tibet every 12 years to protect those vital trade routes, until the route was closed by Chinese control and the flight of the Dalai Lama in 1959. In front of the temple there are some lovely chaityas set on a lingam base. Tourists are not allowed in the temple.
Continue south beyond the Bhimsen Temple then turn sharp left (uphill) at the junction and lose the traffic, passing the deep and ornate Kohiti water tank (5) en route. At the top of the hill you’ll come out by the tall, triple-roofed, 17th-century Jaisi Deval Temple (6; Click here), which stands on a seven-level base. Nearby is the Ram Chandra Temple (7).
Heading southwest there is a series of bahals, but most are of little interest apart from the small and very much lived-in courtyard of Tukan Bahal (8). The Swayambhunath-style 14th-century stupa in the centre is surprisingly impressive.
The road continues with a few bends, then turns sharply left (east) at Wonde junction, which is marked by several temples, including a taller white shikhara temple (9). If you take the downhill road leading south from this junction (off the Walking Tour map) you emerge onto Tripureshwar Marg from where you can continue to the Pachali Bhairab Temple (Click here).
Our walk continues past Brahma Tole to the Musum Bahal (10), with its phallic-shaped Licchavi-style chaityas, an enclosed well and surrounding interconnecting bahals. Turn sharp left (north) at the next main junction and, after 25m, look out for the spacious and sunny Ta Bahal (11), with its lovely chaityas, down an alley on the right.
The road opens into an open square, known as Lagan, featuring the white 5m-high Machhendranath Temple (12), as well as the occasional neighbourhood cricket match. During the annual Seto Machhendranath festival (see the boxed text Seto Machhendranath Festival, Click here, for more information), the image of the white-faced god is transported here from the Seto Machhendranath Temple in Kel Tole (Click here). The final stage of the procession is to pull the god’s chariot three times around the temple, after which the image is taken back to its starting point on a palanquin while the chariot is dismantled here.
KATHMANDU’S INDRA JATRA FESTIVAL
Indra, the ancient Aryan god of rain, was once captured in the Kathmandu Valley while stealing a certain flower for his mother, Dagini. He was imprisoned until Dagini revealed his identity and his captors gladly released him. The festival celebrates this remarkable achievement (villagers don’t capture a real god every day of the week). In return for his release Dagini promised to spread dew over the crops for the coming months and to take back with her to heaven all those who had died in the past year.
The Indra Jatra festival thus honours the recently deceased and pays homage to Indra and Dagini for the coming harvests. It begins when a huge, carefully selected pole, carried via the Tundikhel, is erected outside the Hanuman Dhoka in Kathmandu. At the same time images and representations of Indra, usually as a captive, are displayed and sacrifices of goats and roosters are made; the screened doors obscuring the horrific face of Seto (White) Bhairab are also opened and for the next three days his gruesome visage will stare out at the proceedings.
The day before all this activity, three golden temple chariots are assembled in Basantapur Sq, outside the home of the Kumari (a living goddess; Click here). In the afternoon, with Durbar Sq packed with colourful and cheerful crowds, two boys emerge from the Kumari’s house. They play the roles of Ganesh and Bhairab and will each ride in a chariot as an attendant to the goddess. Finally, the Kumari herself appears, either walking on a rolled-out carpet or carried by attendants so that her feet do not touch the ground.
The chariots move off and the Kumari is greeted from the balcony of the old palace by the president. The procession then continues out of Durbar Sq towards Hanuman Dhoka where it stops in front of the huge Seto Bhairab mask. The Kumari greets the image of Bhairab and then, with loud musical accompaniment, beer starts to pour from Bhairab’s mouth! Getting a sip of this beer is guaranteed to bring good fortune, but one lucky individual will also get the small fish that has been put to swim in the beer – this brings especially good luck (though probably not for the fish).
Numerous other processions also take place around the town until the final day when the great pole is lowered and carried down to the river. A similar pole is erected in Bhaktapur as part of the Bisket Jatra Festival, celebrating the Nepali New Year.
Turn left out of Lagan and walk back to the tall Jaisi Deval Temple, then turn right (northeast) back towards Durbar Sq.
At the next crossroads the slender triple-roofed Hari Shankar Temple (13) stands to the left of the road. Built in 1637 the temple’s deity is a fusion of Shiva and Vishnu.
Continue north past a Vishnu (Narayan) Temple (14) to a second Vishnu temple, the Adko Narayan Temple (15). Although it’s not all that large, it is one of the four most important Vishnu temples in Kathmandu. Twin feathered Garudas front the temple while lions guard each corner. There’s a particularly ornate path (pilgrim’s shelter) on the street corner.
Beyond the temple you pass the Singh Sattal building again and arrive back at the starting point. Alternatively, head east through the backstreets for a reviving chocolate cake and milk tea at Freak St’s Snowman Restaurant (Click here).
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COURSES
Click here and Click here for details of meditation classes, language courses, cookery classes and massage courses available in Kathmandu.
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KATHMANDU FOR CHILDREN
Pilgrims Book House (Click here) has a fine collection of kids’ books, including colouring books. Away from the tourist areas highchairs are virtually nonexistent but finding nonspicy food that children will eat may be more of a problem.
Kids will probably enjoy the zoo in nearby Patan (Click here) and older kids will get a thrill from spotting the monkeys at Swayambhunath.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Kathmandu has many festivals, of which the most outrageous is probably Indra Jatra (see opposite) in September, closely followed by the Seto Machhendranath chariot festival (Click here) in March/April, Dasain in October, and the Pachali Bhairab Jatra, also in October. Click here for details.
The annual Jazzmandu Festival (www.kathmandujazzfestival.com; tickets around Rs 900) is a week-long program of local and international jazz acts that plays in venues across town in late-October/November. See the website for details.
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SLEEPING
Kathmandu has a great range of places to stay, from luxurious international-style hotels to cheap and cheerful lodges, and although prices have risen considerably in recent years, almost all offer competitive prices.
It’s difficult to recommend hotels, especially in the budget and middle brackets, as rooms in each hotel can vary widely. Many of these hotels have multiple wings and, while some rooms may be very gloomy and run-down, others (generally the upper floors) might be bright and pleasant. A friendly crowd of travellers can also make all the difference.
In general, roadside rooms are brighter but noisier than interior rooms, and top-floor rooms are the best as you stand a chance of getting a view and have easy access to the roof garden.
Budget places generally don’t have heating so in winter you’ll want the warmer south-facing rooms and garden access, as it’s always pleasant to sit outside during the cool, but sunny, autumn and winter days.
Quite a few hotels bridge the budget and midrange categories by having a range of room standards – these places have been grouped according to their lowest price.
Normal high-season rates are listed here, but it’s always worth asking for a discount, particularly during low season when most places offer discounts of between 20% and 40%. If you email a reservation in advance you probably won’t get the largest discount but you should get a free airport pick-up. Remember that most places will add on 23% tax.
Most budget and some midrange places are found in the bustling Thamel district. Midrange and top-end places are widely scattered around Kathmandu, some quite a way from the centre.
Some travellers base themselves further afield, outside Kathmandu in Patan or Bodhnath, to escape the traffic, pollution and commercialism of Thamel (Click here and Click here for details), and this isn’t a bad idea. For something quieter still, there is an increasing number of mostly top-end resorts around the Kathmandu Valley that offer a peaceful rural atmosphere less than an hour from the centre of Kathmandu.
The following listings are divided by location and then by price category.
Thamel
For budget and midrange places the tourist ghetto of Thamel is the main locale. It’s a convenient and enjoyable area to stay for a short time, especially to meet fellow travellers or indulge in some budget-priced apple crumble, but you are likely to tire of the place in a couple of days.
In an attempt to establish some order, we have somewhat arbitrarily divided the Greater Thamel area into: Thamel, around the two main intersections; Paknajol, to the north; Bhagwan Bahal, to the northeast; Jyatha, to the southeast; and Chhetrapati, to the southwest.
BUDGET
Central Thamel
Kathmandu Guest House (Map; 4700800; www.ktmgh.com; r without bathroom US$2-14, r with bathroom US$14-50, deluxe r US$55-120; 
) The KGH is a bit of an institution. A former Rana palace, it was the first hotel to open in Thamel and still serves as the central landmark – everything in Thamel is ‘near the Kathmandu Guest House’. In strictly dollar terms you can get better rooms elsewhere, but most people enjoy the bustling atmosphere and it’s often booked out weeks in advance during the high season. The wi-fi enabled front courtyard and very pleasant rear garden acts as a haven from the Thamel mayhem. This is budget travel with a deluxe twist.
A vast range of rooms are available. The cheapest rooms without bathroom form part of the original 13-room guest house and really aren’t up to much – you can get better-value rooms elsewhere – but at least the common showers are clean and hot. In the newer wing, the best-value rooms are probably the garden-facing rooms (single/double US$30/35).
Marco Polo Guest House (Map; 4251914; [email protected]; r Rs 300-600) There’s a certain boarding school feel here but it’s a popular place with a convenient location on the eastern edge of Thamel, near traffic-soaked Tridevi Marg. The rooms at the top and back are surprisingly quiet and bright, especially the spacious deluxe rooms; others are noisier and darker.
Hotel Potala (Map; 4700159; www.potalahotel.com; s/d without bathroom Rs 350/450, s/d with bathroom Rs 450/550, deluxe r Rs 900-1125) Bang in the beating heart of Thamel, this small backpacker place has recently been revitalised by switched-on new management. The rooms are simple and smallish but clean and decent, though some are smaller and darker than others. Internet terminals, a nice rooftop area and a convenient restaurant overlooking Thamel’s main drag are nice extras. It’s down an alleyway near the Maya Cocktail Bar.
Student Guest House (Map; 4251448; [email protected]; s/d with bathroom Rs 350/600; ) It’s right next door to Marco Polo and a similar deal. It’s quiet and clean but the buildings are so crammed in that there’s little natural light and no views. The rooms out the back are much better and solo travellers can often get these double rooms for a single price, which is as good a deal as you’re going to get in central Thamel.
Hotel Red Planet (Map; 4700879; [email protected]; s/d from Rs 500/700, deluxe s/d Rs 650/850) Tucked away by the bend in the road just north of Kathmandu Guest House, this is a good Thamel cheapie, and not too noisy despite its central location. There’s no glamour here but most rooms are clean and good value with decent bathrooms; try to get a garden-side room with a balcony.
Hotel Horizon (Map; 4220904; www.hotelhorizon.com; economy s/d US$8/10, standard s/d US$10/15, deluxe s/d US$15/20; ) A good choice down an alley off the main street in southern Thamel, making it a quiet and central option. All rooms have a bathroom, most of which are bright and spacious, if a little old-fashioned, and there are some nice communal seating areas. The mid-priced rooms are the best value; more than this and you are really just paying for a bath tub.
Acme Guest House (Map; 4700236; www.acmeguesthouse.com; economy s/d US$8/10, standard s/d US$15/20, garden-facing s/d US$20/25) Next to the Hotel Red Planet, the rooms here are quite large and there is an open lawn area, which is something of a rarity in crowded Thamel. The rooms with a balcony overlooking the lawn are the best value; those at the back can be dark. Recent price hikes have made the rooms poorer value.
Thorong Peak Guest House (Map; 4253458; www.thorongpeak.com; s/d without bathroom US$8/12, standard s/d US$14/18, deluxe s/d US$20/24, superior s/d US$26/30; ) A clean and well-looked-after place, off the main street in a small cul de sac. Most rooms are spacious, light and airy, if a little bland, with super-clean bathrooms. Plus points include nice communal balconies and a decent courtyard restaurant, though without discounts it’s a bit overpriced.
DECLAN MURPHY
Declan Murphy is the director of the children’s charity Just One (www.just-one.org) in Nepal.
What drives children onto the streets of Kathmandu? Many children on the streets of Kathmandu are there because of poverty and domestic violence. Although illegal, child labour is commonly accepted in Nepal and is often seen as a good escape from poverty – both for the children themselves and for the families that send them away. Kids often come to the streets of Kathmandu in search of better fortune, either of their own accord or under the influence of friends or family. Far away hills are always greener though, and many kids discover that life in the capital is not as glittering as it might have seemed from their home village.
Perhaps a more important question is what ‘keeps’ these children on the street? Bizarrely, kindness is often the answer. Consider the following scenario – a child is sent to Kathmandu to work by poor and uneducated parents and discovers that the ‘boss’ is unkind, uncaring and often quite cruel. Seeing how other children seem able to survive on the street, the child decides to try their luck and falls under the influence of older street kids – kids who’ve learnt that begging can be a lucrative game, who know the escape of solvent abuse, who no longer have the tension of living with impoverished and over-stressed parents, and who are prepared to put up with various hardships in return for what they see as a life of total freedom.
What can travellers do to help? More often than not doing nothing probably won’t make the traveller feel better about a particular situation, but that should never be their reason for wanting to help. The best thing travellers can do to help is to do nothing. There are many organisations working to help Nepal’s street children, and handing out food, money and other gifts in the street never provides a lasting solution to the child’s problems. What it will do is give the child a reason to stay on the street – at home, parents rarely give them biscuits, or bananas, or chocolate, or cola, or cream doughnuts, or Rs 10 notes, or any of the random gifts that countless travellers regularly bestow on street children. When organisations, like Just-One, offer assistance to these young and vulnerable kids, what they are actually being asked is to choose between ‘normal’ life of school, learning, family, routine, structure, rules and day-to-day hardships, and a life of comparative freedom that the random acts of kindness of countless kind-hearted people make possible.
Are there any organisations that travellers can donate to or volunteer with to help children in Kathmandu? There are thousands of organisations here and many welcome volunteers and donations. However, aside from being prohibited on a tourist visa, the volunteering industry is unregulated and travellers should look very carefully at any organisation that they donate time or money to. When volunteering, think about your own skills and experience and look for an organisation that can use those skills in its work.
Paknajol (Northern Thamel)
This area lies to the north of central Thamel and can be reached by continuing north from the Kathmandu Guest House, or by approaching from Lekhnath Marg to the north.
Not far from the steep Paknajol intersection with Lekhnath Marg (northwest of Thamel) are a few pleasant guest houses grouped together in a district known as Sorakhutte. They’re away from traffic, a short walk from Thamel (but it could be a million miles), and they have fine views across the valley towards Balaju and Swayambhunath.
Tibet Peace Guest House (Map; 4381026; www.tibetpeace.com; r without bathroom Rs 200-400, r with bathroom Rs 400-800) Friendly and family-run, this is a quiet and mellow hang out with a very nice garden and small restaurant. There’s a wide range of rooms, some ramshackle and others with private balconies, so have a dig around before committing.
Yellow House (Map; 4381186; [email protected]; r without bathroom Rs 250-350, r with bathroom Rs 500-600) This friendly new place across the road is an excellent addition to the expanding Paknajol scene. The 20 rooms are bright, there’s lots of garden space and the house restaurant dishes up good Thai food.
Kathmandu Garden House (Map; 4381239; www.hotel-in-nepal.com; s/d without bathroom Rs 200/300, s/d with bathroom Rs 500/700) A small and intimate guest house that is cosy and deservedly popular. The views from the roof are excellent and there are nice sitting areas and a lovely garden, where you can sit back and marvel at the staff cutting the grass by hand (literally!).
Family Peace House (Map; 4381138; [email protected]; s/d without bathroom Rs 250/300, s/d with bathroom Rs 400/500) Next door, Family Peace House is a similar deal: it’s a notch down in quality but still good value.
Hotel Encounter Nepal (Map; 4440534; www.encounternepal.com; old block s/d without bathroom US$4/8, s/d with bathroom from US$8/10, new block s/d from US$15/20, deluxe r US$30-65; ) This faded place to the north of Thamel suffers from crummy decor and overpriced rates but has some OK rooms. The best old-block rooms are sunny and spacious, and the spiffier new block across the garden has some nice air-conditioned deluxe corner rooms with balcony views over the valley. You take your life in your hands crossing diabolical Lekhnath Marg to get here.
Hotel Down Town (Map; 4700471; www.hotel-downtown-nepal.com; r without bathroom Rs 300-400, with bathroom Rs 400-800) This decent Thamel cheapie has a wide range of rooms; some dark, others (especially those clustered around the rooftop) bright and pleasant. There are a couple of nice communal sitting areas and balconies. The website makes it look much more glamorous than it actually is…
Holy Lodge (Map; 4700265; s/d from Rs 300/400, with bathroom Rs 750/900) This place offers neat, clean rooms, but there’s a sad lack of garden, sitting areas or views, especially in the warrenlike back building, which has the cheaper rooms. Deluxe rooms are spacious but the hideous carpets are a serious style violation.
Annapurna Guest House (Map; 4420159; www.annapurnaguesthouse.com; s/d without bathroom Rs 350/400, s/d with bathroom Rs 500/600) Further north near the Hotel Norbu Linka, this somewhat dour family guest house is down a side alley. The rooms are smallish but clean and most come with a private bathroom, though some are dark. The rooftop restaurant is pleasant. This area is quieter than Thamel proper and has not yet been completely taken over by restaurants, souvenir shops and travel agencies.
Hotel Florid (Map; 4701055; www.hotelflorid.com.np; s/d without bathroom US$5/6.50, s/d with bathroom US$10/12, deluxe r US$15; ) This is one of several small guest houses just north of central Thamel, down a lane west of Advanced Photo Finisher. There is a pleasant garden restaurant at the rear and no buildings behind, so there’s a feeling of space that is often lacking in Thamel. The suitelike deluxe rooms overlooking the garden are sunny and spacious. Doubles overlooking the road are noisier but come with a shared balcony. You’ll need to negotiate a discount to get good value here.
Pilgrims Guest House (Map; 4440565; [email protected]; s/d without bathroom US$6/9, s with bathroom US$10, d $15-20; ) The first thing that appeals about this secluded place in northern Thamel is the outdoor garden restaurant and bar. The wide range of rooms fit most budgets, from top-floor rooms with a sofa and balcony, to the cheapest singles, which are little more than a box. It’s a popular place so you may have to take what you can get for the first night and then upgrade as rooms become available.
Prince Guest House (Map; 4700456; prince [email protected]; s/d US$8/12) Across the road from Down Town, this passable budget place is cheered up by potted plants and a pleasant rooftop. Rooms have small hot-water bathrooms but are pretty charmless. The upper-floor rooms are much brighter.
Hotel Shree Tibet (Map; 4700902; [email protected]; s/d US$10/15, deluxe r US$20) It’s easy to miss this upper-budget, Tibetan-run place and most people do (it’s often deserted). It’s a clean, quiet and friendly place with cosy rooms, although some are dark and smallish due to the buildings being very close together. As always, the back rooms on the higher floors are best. The small restaurant serves decent Tibetan food. For some reason 85% of the guests are French.
Kathmandu Peace Guest House (Map; 4380369; www.ktmpeaceguesthouse.com; s with/without bathroom US$12/8, d with/without bathroom US$16/12, deluxe s/d with bathroom US$14/18) Along the road from the Tibet Peace Guest House, this is a little more upmarket, offering rooms with satellite TV in either the slightly ramshackle old wing or the fresher pine-clad new block. There are fine views from the rooftop towards Nagarjun.
Hotel Tashi Dhargey (Map; 4700030; www.hoteltashidhargey.com; s/d US$12/15, deluxe s/d US$20/25; ) A pretty good upper budget choice in the heart of things, down a back alley with entrances on two different roads. It has a wide range of slightly old-fashioned but spacious rooms, the best of which are on the upper floors and on the sunny south side. Deluxe rooms come with air-con/heating and have a large bathroom; they are good value at the discounted rate of US$12/15.
Hotel Metropolitan Kantipur (Map; 4266518; www.kantipurhotel.com; s/d US$15/20, deluxe s/d US$25/30) Just west of the Thamel action, this is a decent find with a scruffy garden of pomelo trees, rooftop seating and friendly staff. Rooms are spacious, though levels of maintenance vary; upper-floor rooms are best. There’s even a small Kumari Temple in the corner of the grounds. Without the discounts it’s overpriced.
Mustang Guest House (Map; 4700053; www.mothersland.com; s/d without bathroom Rs 250/300, s with bathroom Rs 300, d $450-500) Another acceptable cheapie, this place is the tucked away down an inconspicuous laneway with decent, quiet rooms but a dearth of natural light.
Chhetrapati (South Thamel)
This area is named after the important five-way intersection (notable by its distinctive bandstand) to the southwest of Thamel. The further you get from Thamel, the more traditional the surroundings become.
Khangsar Guest House (Map; 4260788; www.khangsarguesthouse.com; s Rs 400-600, d Rs 500-750) This is a friendly and central option, though recent price hikes mean you can now find better value elsewhere. The threadbare rooms come with an anorexically thin but clean bathroom with (generally) hot water, plus there’s a Korean restaurant and a pleasant rooftop bar for cold beers under the stars. The upper-floor rooms are best.
Hotel Ganesh Himal (Map; 4243819, 4263598; www.ganeshhimal.com; standard s/d US$11/14, deluxe s/d US$16/19;
) Our pick for comfort on a budget is this well-run and friendly place, a 10-minute walk southwest of Thamel – far enough to be out of range of the tiger balm salesmen but close enough to restaurants for dinner. The rooms are among the best value in Kathmandu, with endless hot water, satellite TV and lots of balcony and garden seating, plus a sunny rooftop. The deluxe rooms are more spacious, a little quieter and come with a bath tub. Throw in free internet access, free airport pick-up and cheap mountain bike hire (the manager is a keen biker) and this place is hard to beat. Here’s a tip – bring earplugs, as the residential neighbourhood can be a bit noisy.
MIDRANGE
Central Thamel
Hotel Garuda (Map; 4700766; www.garuda-hotel.com; s/d US$10/15, standard s/d US$15/20, deluxe s/d US$25/30) There’s a definite mountaineering connection going on here – there are lots of signed expedition photos on the walls (including those of Scott Fisher and Rob Hall) and John Krakauer mentions staying here in his bestseller Into Thin Air. It’s very central, right in the eye of the Thamel storm, but that means you suffer from either road noise or the plain and dark interior rooms. It probably feels great after two weeks bivouacked on the side of Everest; for everyone else there are better options.
Hotel Blue Horizon (Map; 4421971; www.hotelbluehorizon.com; Tridevi Marg; s US$15-25, d US$20-30, deluxe r US$50-60;
) There’s good and bad news here. Pluses include a nice rooftop seating, a quiet neighbourhood and a secluded location down an alleyway off Tridevi Marg that makes it super easy for transport around the city. Downers include a disinterested management. The mid-priced corner rooms offer best value and the top-priced suites are good for families, but all are a bit overpriced.
Paknajol (North Thamel)
International Guest House (Map; 4252299; www.ighouse.com; s/d with bathroom US$16/20, deluxe s/d US$22/28, superior deluxe s/d US$30/35, ste US$45) West from the Hotel Tradition in an area known as Kaldhara, this is a highly recommended and quite stylish place that boasts century-old carved woodwork, terraced sitting areas, a spacious garden and one of the best rooftop views in the city. The superior deluxe rooms in the renovated wing are bright, spacious and well decorated, while the deluxe rooms come with a garden view. Standard rooms vary. This area is quieter and much less of a scene than Thamel but still close to plenty of restaurants. Rates include breakfast, wi-fi and airport pick-up. Keep an eye out for the stuffed yak…
Hotel Tradition (Map; 4700217; www.hoteltradition.com; standard s/d US$30/40, deluxe s/d US$55/65) At eight storeys, this is probably the tallest building in the area and a good choice. The rooms are comfortable and well furnished (though some are a bit small) and the views from the 6th-floor terrace restaurant are sensational. The hotel is located on the snaking side road known as Saatghumti, or ‘Seven Bends’. Reservations are a good idea in high season.
Hotel Courtyard (Map; 4700648; www.hotelcourtyard.com; s/d US$35/40, deluxe r US$65, ste US$90) For something more stylish, this well-run hotel is one of the few boutique options in Thamel. Built in a traditional style with oil bricks, Newari-style carved wooden lintels and stone waterspouts, it’s well insulated from the Thamel madness; there are pleasant seating areas and the rooms are big enough to tango in. A small spa, library and bar enhance the lush, romantic mood.
Bhagwan Bahal (Northeastern Thamel)
Hotel Norbu Linka (Map; 4410630; www.hotelnorbulinka.com; s/d US$45/50, deluxe s/d US$60/80, ste US$85-100) A modern, secluded place, down an alley opposite the interesting Thamel Gaa Hiti (water tank). The spacious modern rooms aren’t as Tibetan as you’d think from the name but they are clean and comfortable, and there are a couple of rooms on the rooftop garden area. The opulent suites are great for families and the restaurant is open 24 hours, so if you are jetlagged and with kids, look no further. Credit cards are accepted.
Jyatha (Southeastern Thamel)
The neighbourhood southeast of Thamel is traditionally known as Jyatha, but the word is also used to describe the main north–south road that runs into the western end of Tridevi Marg.
Turn east a short way down Jyatha Rd, and a couple of twists and turns will bring you to a neat little cluster of modern guest houses, whose central but quiet location feels a million miles from the Thamel hustle.
Fuji Hotel (Map; 4250435; www.fujiguesthouse.com; s with/without bathroom US$10/6, d with/without bathroom US$15/10, standard r US$15-30, deluxe r US$30-45) A well-run place in the same lane as the Holy Himalaya. It’s popular with Japanese travellers and rooms are neat, quiet and spotlessly clean; the more expensive rooms have balconies, towels and bath tubs. The economy rooms with shared bathroom are a good deal.
Imperial Guest House (Map; 4249339; [email protected]; s/d US$12/15) Further east and across the road from Mustang Holiday Inn, this place is cheap and plain but it has a few good rooms. There’s a rooftop sitting area that overlooks a small shrine.
Mustang Holiday Inn (Map; 4249041; www.mustangholiday.com; s/d with bathroom US$15/20, deluxe s/d US$22/28, super deluxe s/d US$30/40) Really, how many times do you get to stay in a hotel owned by the king of a remote Himalayan kingdom? The dimly lit rooms are looking a bit old these days but the Tibetan decor is still hanging on, with thangkas decked in khatas (silk scarfs), and some come with a balcony. It’s quiet, has a restaurant and nice terrace seating and, yes, it really is leased from the King of Mustang!
Hotel Utse (Map; 4228952; www.hotelutse.com.np; Jyatha Rd; standard s/d US$15/21, deluxe s/d US$19/25, super deluxe s/d US$24/30) This comfortable Tibetan hotel is owned by Ugyen Tsering, one of the original Thamel tourism pioneers, with his long-running and popular Utse Restaurant (Click here). It’s solid in an old-school way, with a good rooftop area (with library) and Tibetan-influenced foyer. Deluxe rooms have nice Tibetan touches, with air-con and satellite TV, but the standard rooms probably offer best value. Rooms tend to be very dark; the roadside rooms are brighter but noisy.
Hotel Norling (Map; 4240734; www.hotelnorling.com; Jyatha Rd; standard s/d US$15/20, deluxe d US$25-30) A thin slice of a hotel next door to the Hotel Utse that is a good-value option. Also Tibetan-run, it has small but neat rooms set around an interior courtyard and boasts a rooftop garden with real lawn. The small interior single rooms are worth avoiding; the back rooms with a window are best. Deluxe rooms are slightly larger.
Hotel Holy Himalaya (Map; 4263172; www.holyhimalaya.com; s/d US$24/34, deluxe s/d US$49/69;
) Tucked away in a lane behind the Hotel Utse, this is a good midrange find frequented by small in-the-know tour groups. It’s a modern, well-run place that feels like a ‘real’ hotel, down to the marbly lobby and lift. The rooms are bland but reassuring and some come with a balcony. The spacious deluxe rooms are the best value. Perks include free internet access, organic coffee and a nice rooftop. Formerly known as the Hotel Dynasty.
Kantipur Temple House (Map; 4250131; www.kantipurtemplehouse.com; s/d US$55/66, deluxe s/d US$85/125) Hidden down an alley on the edge of the old town, at the southern end of Jyatha, this boutique-style hotel has been built in traditional Newari-temple style with meticulous attention to detail. The spacious rooms are tastefully decorated, with traditional carved wood, window seats and specially commissioned fair-trade dhaka (hand-woven) cloth bedspreads. Due to the traditional nature of the building rooms tend to be a little dark. This place is doing its best to be eco-friendly – guests are given cloth bags to use when shopping and bulk mineral water is available free of charge, so you don’t need to buy plastic bottles. In fact there’s no plastic anywhere in the hotel. The new block encircles a traditional brick courtyard and there’s garden and rooftop seating. The old town location is close to almost anywhere in town, but taxi drivers might have a hard time finding it.
Chhetrapati (South Thamel)
Potala Guest House (Map; 4220467; www.potalaguesthouse.com; s US$10, d US$15-20, deluxe r US$38; ) At the quiet southern end of Thamel is this large, fairly popular hotel. The garden is small but pleasant, with a lovely terrace and a rooftop garden. The quiet deluxe rooms with air-con and wooden floors are the best bet; the other rooms are older and much plainer, especially the singles.
Tibet Guest House (Map; 4254888; www.tibetguesthouse.com; s/d US$16/20, standard s/d US$25/30, deluxe s/d US$35/40, superior s/d US$50/55, ste s/d US$65/75;
) You can’t go wrong at this well-run and popular hotel, so book in advance. All the rooms are comfortable, though lower floors can be dark; the deluxe rooms have a much larger bathroom. There’s a lovely breakfast patio and the superb views of Swayambhunath from the rooftop garden just cry out to be appreciated at sunset with a cold beer. The standard rooms come with a balcony and are in a separate block across the street. Free wi-fi is a perk.
Nirvana Garden Hotel (Map; 4256200; www.nirvanagarden.com; s/d US$40/50, deluxe s/d US$50/60) The relaxing garden here may not quite be nirvana but it is the closest you’ll find to bliss in Thamel and it’s a real oasis, making this hotel a very relaxing choice close to the centre. The clean and fresh deluxe rooms with private balcony are the ones to opt for (ask for a garden view) and offer great midrange value. The standard rooms are much smaller.
Freak Street (Jochne) & Durbar Square
Although Freak St’s glory days have passed, a few determined rock-bottom budget restaurants and lodges have clung on. Staying here offers two pluses – you won’t find much cheaper, there are fewer crowds and you’re right in the heart of the fascinating old city. On the downside, the pickings are slimmer and the lodges are generally grungier than in Thamel.
Century Lodge (Map; 4247641; www.century lodge.4t.com; s/d without bathroom Rs 200/400, s/d with bathroom Rs 350/450) One of Freak St’s long-term survivors, this ramshackle place treads a tightrope between atmospheric and dingy but remains fairly popular. The creaky old-wing rooms haven’t changed since 1972 (be warned, neither have the mattresses); the new top-floor rooms are cleaner but disappointingly concrete. The nicest rooms come with a balcony.
Annapurna Lodge (Map; 4247684; r with/without bathroom Rs 350/250) Simple but well kept, cheerful and cosy, this is probably the best budget option in Freak St. The attached Diyalo Restaurant is a good place to eat and there are evening movies and a laundry service.
Monumental Paradise (Map; 4240876; [email protected]; s/d with bathroom Rs 400/650) A newish place that’s a lot more modern than the rest of Freak St. Rooms are clean, fresh and spacious, with a tiled bathroom, and the upper-floor back rooms come with a private balcony and lots of natural light. There’s an excellent rooftop bar/restaurant and one suite (Rs 1000) in the crow’s nest has its own balcony and hammock! A good choice.
FREAK STREET – THE END OF THE ROAD
Running south from Basantapur Sq, Freak St dates from the overland days of the late 1960s and early 1970s, when it was one of the great gathering places on ‘the road east’. In its hippy prime, this was the place for cheap hotels (Rs 3 a room!), colourful restaurants, hash and ‘pie’ (pastry) shops, the sounds of Jimmy and Janis blasting from eight-track players and, of course, the weird and wonderful foreign ‘freaks’ who gave the street its name. Along with Bodhnath and Swayambhunath, Freak St was a magnet for those in search of spiritual enlightenment, cheap dope and a place where the normal boundaries no longer applied.
Times change and Freak St (better known these days by its real name, Jochne) is today only a pale shadow of its former funky self. While there are still cheap hotels and restaurants, it’s the Thamel area in the north of the city that is the main gathering place for a new generation of travellers. However, for those people who find Thamel too slick and commercialised, Freak St retains a faint echo of those mellower days.
Central Kathmandu
Most of the following hotels are within walking distance of Durbar Marg and the Thamel area and fall into the top-end price range.
Shanker Hotel (Map; 4410151; www.shankerhotel.com.np; s/d incl breakfast US$90/105; 
) There’s nowhere in town quite like this former Rana palace – the kind of place where you expect some whiskered old Rana prince to come shuffling around one of the wooden corridors. The renovated rooms are quirky rather than luxurious (some are split level); for real grandeur you’ll have to track down the dining halls and Durbar Hall conference space. The entry columns of neoclassical whipped cream overlook a palatial manicured garden and swimming pool.
Malla Hotel (Map; 4418385; www.hotelmalla.com; s/d US$130/156, club deluxe s/d US$150/182;
) On the northeastern edge of Thamel, west of the New Royal Palace but still only a five-minute walk to all the Thamel restaurants, the Malla is solid four-star comfort. The slightly anaemic rooms enjoy either pool or garden views. There’s a good swimming pool, a new casino and, best of all, a superb garden complete with a mini-stupa and even a peacock enclosure.
Yak & Yeti Hotel (Map; 4248999; www.yakandyeti.com; Newari wing d US$185, Durbar wing d US$205, executive club US$250;
) This hotel is probably the best-known in Nepal, due to its connections with the near-legendary Boris Lissanevitch, its original owner. The oldest section of the hotel is part of the Lal Durbar, a Rana palace that houses restaurants and a casino; these retain traces of an overblown but spectacular baroque decor (the foyer is decorated with excellent old black-and-white photos of Rana royalty). The actual rooms are in two modern wings: the older Newari wing incorporates Newari woodcarvings, oil brick walls and local textiles, while the Durbar wing is modern and stylish with better bathroom facilities. Request a garden-facing room. Business people will find an executive floor and a well-equipped business centre. There’s also a beautiful garden, two pools, tennis courts and a fitness centre.
Lazimpat
North of central Kathmandu is the Lazimpat embassy area. The options in this area are generally popular with nongovernment organisation (NGO) staff, repeat visitors and business people.
MIDRANGE
Astoria Hotel (Map; 4436180; www.astoria-hotel.com; s/d incl breakfast US$28/35, deluxe s/d US$50/60; ) North along Lazimpat, signposted down a secluded alley to the side of the Hotel Shangri‑La, is this excellent find. The light and airy rooms are spotlessly clean, and have TV, carpet and nice home touches. The spacious standard rooms are in the block out back; deluxe rooms are bigger and come with air-con and an internet port. The stylish Swiss-French restaurant, switched-on staff and pleasant garden are icing on the cake. Take a left after the Shangri-La and then a right at the fork.
Hotel Manaslu (Map; 4410071; www.hotelmanaslu.com; standard s/d incl breakfast US$45/50;
) Just beyond Hotel Tibet, the big draw at this nice modern hotel is the pleasant garden and pool fed by Newari-style fountains. The glorious carved windows in the restaurant were brought in from Bhaktapur. After this initial splendour, the rooms themselves are ho-hum; try to get a room overlooking the garden. The slightly inconvenient location explains the relatively low rates.
Hotel Tibet (Map; 4429085; www.hotel-tibet.com; s/d US$70/80; ) Tibetophiles and tour groups headed to or from Tibet like this recommended midrange choice, run by a friendly Tibetan family and with a very Tibetan vibe. The 56 quiet and comfortable rooms are a bit plain compared to the opulent lobby, but the larger front-facing rooms have a balcony. There’s also a great rooftop terrace, a garden and even a meditation chapel. It’s just in front of the Radisson Hotel.
TOP END
Hotel Shangri-La (Map; 4412999; www.hotelshangrila.com; superior s/d incl breakfast US$120/130, executive s/d US$150/160; ) Recent renovations have added a new casino, fitness centre and an alleged fifth star, but unfortunately more attention has been spent on the shopping arcades than the superior rooms, which are looking pretty tired. The real draw is the large relaxing garden, with a kids’ play area and twice-weekly barbecues (Rs 500). Try a High Lama cocktail at the Lost Horizon Bar. Nice, but not top-notch.
Radisson Hotel (Map; 4423888; www.radisson.com/kathmandune; superior/deluxe/club r US$185/200/250;
) North of the city in the Lazimpat embassy area, the Radisson is modern, fresh and well maintained, with a 5th-floor pool and a good gym operated by Clark Hatch. The instant coffee supplied with the coffee maker doesn’t exactly scream five stars, though.
Elsewhere
MIDRANGE
Hotel Vajra (Map; 4271545; www.hotelvajra.com; s/d without bathroom incl breakfast US$14/16, s/d with bathroom from US$33/38, new wing s/d from US$53/61) Across the Vishnumati River in the Bijeshwari district, this is one of Kathmandu’s most interesting hotels in any price category. The complex feels more like an artists’ retreat than a hotel, with an art gallery, a library of books on Tibet and Buddhism, a fine rooftop bar and an Ayurvedic massage room. The cheapest rooms in the old block have shared bathrooms but are still good value. All the rooms in the old wing are unique so take a look at more than one. The only catch is the location, which, though peaceful, makes it tricky for getting a taxi.
TOP END
Soaltee Crowne Plaza (Map; 4273999; s/d US$180/190, deluxe s/d US$220/230; ) Space and tranquillity are precious commodities in Kathmandu but the Soaltee has acres of both; 11 acres, to be precise, so take a map if you go for a stroll. Spread around the palatial grounds (the hotel is owned by former King Gyanendra) are some excellent restaurants, a lovely poolside area, a casino and even a bowling alley. The price you pay is the crummy location on the western edge of town, a 15-minute taxi ride from the centre.
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu ( 4491234; www.kathmandu.regency.hyatt.com; d from US$210; ) No expense has been spared on this superb palace-style building, from the dramatic entrance of Newari water tanks to the modern Malla-style architecture. It’s worth popping in en route to Bodhnath just to admire the gorgeous stupas in the foyer, which set the stylish tone for the hotel (there’s a lamp-lighting ceremony at dusk). As you’d expect, the rooms are furnished tastefully and many have views over nearby Bodhnath stupa. The large swimming pool, good restaurants and Sunday brunch make this the perfect spot for a splurge. After a tough day’s sightseeing unwind with a shirodhara (oil pouring) Ayurvedic treatment at the spa. The Hyatt is a couple of kilometres outside Kathmandu, on the road to Bodhnath.
Dwarika’s Hotel (Map; 4470770; www.dwarikas.com; s/d US$220/230, ste US$330-385; ) For stylish design and sheer romance, this outstanding hotel is unbeatable; if you’re on honeymoon, this is the place to choose. Over 40 years the owners have rescued thousands of woodcarvings from around the valley (from buildings facing demolition or collapse) and incorporated them into the hotel design, which consists of clusters of traditional Newari buildings (including a library and pool) separated by brick-paved courtyards. The end result is a beautiful hybrid – a cross between a museum and a boutique hotel, with a lush, pampering ambience. Each room is unique and some have sexy open-plan granite bathrooms. Its only disadvantage is its location – on a busy street in the east of town – but finding a taxi is never a problem.
Return to beginning of chapter
EATING
Kathmandu has an astounding array of restaurants. Indeed, with the possible exception of the canteen at the UN building, there are few places where you have the choice of Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Korean, Middle Eastern, Italian or Irish cuisines, all within a five-minute walk. And there are even some Nepali restaurants! After long months on the road in India or weeks trekking in the mountains Kathmandu feels like a culinary paradise.
Thamel’s restaurant scene has been sliding upmarket for a few years now, with a slew of places now costing US$5 per main course, plus 23% tax – still a great bargain but unthinkable a few years ago. A bottle of beer will nearly double your bill in a budget restaurant.
Thamel
Thamel restaurants spill into Paknajol, Jyatha and Chhetrapati, just like the hotels. The junction outside the Kathmandu Guest House is the epicentre of Thamel dining and you’ll find dozens of excellent restaurants within a minute’s walk in either direction.
Beyond the restaurants listed here, there are dozens of other budget restaurants, all offering the same standard menu of, well, pretty well anything, and all serving remarkably similar and often very bland food. What marks the difference between these places is the atmosphere, music, service and who happens to be there on the night.
BUDGET
Yangling Tibetan Restaurant (Map; Saatghumti Chowk; momos Rs 60-80; closed Sat) Both locals and tourists flock to this unpretentious family-run place for possibly the best momos (dumplings) in town (try the chicken ones). The kitchen here is a nonstop momo production line.
Shree Lal House of Vegetarian Restaurant (Map; 2093021; mains Rs 60-120) Vegetarians and vegans love this bright and modern family-run place for its vegetarian Indian dishes, South Indian dosas (fried lentil-flour pancakes) and open kitchen. The food is tasty and good value for a light meal. The lababdar roll comes with nuts, onion, pepper, carrot and paneer (cottage cheese).
Nargila Restaurant (Map; 4700712; mains Rs 60-150; 1-10pm) Across from the Northfield Cafe, on the 1st floor, this somewhat dour budget favourite is a quiet place to just take a break from the bustle outside. Try a shwarma (grilled meat and salad in a pitta; Rs 185) or hummus served with pitta (Rs 105), washed down by a mint tea. The hot waffle with fruit and yoghurt (Rs 125) is simply the best in Kathmandu.
Zaika (Map; 4701785; mains Rs 60-160) Finding a really cheap meal is getting harder and harder in Kathmandu, so this new cheapie is a useful addition. The Indian dishes, momos, baguette sandwiches and Newari snacks aren’t exactly haute cuisine but the food is cheap and tasty.
Yak Restaurant (Map; mains Rs 70-155) An unpretentious and reliable Tibetan-run place at the other end of Thamel. The booths give it a ‘Tibetan diner’ vibe and the clientele is a mix of trekkers, Sherpa guides and local Tibetans who come to shoot the breeze over a cigarette and a tube of tongba (hot millet beer). The menu includes Tibetan dishes, with good kothey (fried momos), and some Indian dishes, at unbeatable prices. It feels just like a trekking lodge, down to that familiar electronic sound of a chicken being strangled every time a dish leaves the kitchen.
Chang Cheng Restaurant (Map; Centre Point Hotel; veg dishes Rs 80-120, meat Rs 180-300) The real deal for Chinese food, and often full of visiting Chinese business people and Chinese Tibetans who shout, smoke, slurp and burp their way through large portions of wonderfully spicy Sichuanese food.
Dahua Restaurant (Map; 4410247; dishes Rs 80-150) In contrast, this definitely isn’t ‘real’ China – sticky sweet-and-sours and egg foo yong are the rule here – but it’s quiet, cosy and tasty, and the price is right. It’s on the eastern edge of Thamel.
Old Tashi Delek Rest (Map; mains Rs 90-140) This place, a long-time favourite, feels like a trekking lodge that’s been transplanted from Everest into a Thamel time warp. Prices are decent, the Tibetan momos (especially the richosse momo soup) are authentic, and the spinach mushroom enchilada (Rs 140) is surprisingly good for Tibetan-Mexican food (Tib-Mex?). It’s down a corridor, slap bang in the centre of the Thamel action.
Thakali Kitchen (Map; 4701910; veg/nonveg daal bhaat Rs 95/140; 10am-10pm) If, after having travelled all the way to Nepal, you actually fancy some Nepali food (!), this upstairs restaurant is a modern place popular with local Thamel workers on their lunch break. Most opt for daal bhaat but there’s also a range of Thakali food such as aa lang kho, a dried meat, cheese and radish soup.
Helena’s (Map; 4266979; breakfast from Rs 99, mains Rs 150-295; 7am-10pm) Helena’s is deservedly popular for its set breakfasts, one of the highest rooftops in Thamel, cosy interior and super-friendly service, with a wide range of coffee, good cakes, tandoori dishes and steaks. It’s warm and cosy in winter. If you are heading off trekking, consider breakfast on the 8th floor a form of high-altitude training.
Delima Garden Cafe (Map; mains Rs 100-250) If you can’t decide whether you want baked beans or Thai coconut chicken, this garden restaurant down an alleyway away from the traffic in Paknajol covers all the bases. The lush garden surroundings are nice but the food can be a bit hit and miss. There are plenty of breakfast choices.
Pilgrims Feed ‘N Read (Map; 4700942; mains Rs 110-180, set meal Rs 250) Keep walking past the self-help section of Pilgrims Book House and you’ll end up in this quiet and classy cafe, with indoor and garden seating. The focus is on herbal teas (Rs 60 per pot) and vegetarian Indian food (including dosas) and there’s no shortage of reading material.
Utse Restaurant (Map; mains Rs 120-160) In the hotel of the same name, this is one of the longest-running restaurants in Thamel and it turns out excellent Tibetan dishes, including unusual Tibetan desserts that you won’t find anywhere else. The decor feels lifted straight from Lhasa. For a group blowout, gacok (also spelt gyakok) is a form of hotpot named after the brass tureen that is heated at the table and from which various meats and vegetables are served (Rs 720 for two). The set meals are a worthy extravagance.
Via Via Cafe (Map; 4700184; www.viaviacafe.com; mains Rs 120-240; 11am-10pm) This century-old red house at the end of ‘Seven Bends’ is part of a Belgian-run chain of travellers’ cafes that is part restaurant, part lounge bar, and part hostel. The food is mostly European, with some specifically Belgian touches, and the excellent brunch menu stretches to French toast, crêpes and Greek omelettes. If you like the Nepali dishes, sign up for the weekly cookery course (€5). The sociable lounge converts to a small Latin club on the weekends and a movie hall on Thursdays.
Or2k (Map; 4422097; www.or2k.com; mains Rs 130-200) This popular Israeli-run vegetarian restaurant is our current favourite for fresh and light Middle Eastern dishes. The menu spreads to crêpes, soups, zucchini pie, coconut tofu and ziva (pastry fingers filled with cheese). The mood is bright and buzzy. All seating is on cushions on the floor; you have to take your shoes off so make sure you’re wearing your clean pair of socks. A small stand at street level serves takeaway felafel wraps (Rs 110).
Hankook Sarang (Map; 4256615; mains Rs 150-300) Currently our favourite Asian food fix, the Hankook is that rare combination of authentic taste and good value. Korean staples like bibambap and bulgogi (barbecued beef cooked at your table and eaten with lettuce) come with crunchy kimchi, salad, soup, dried fish, sweet beans and green tea. Bibambap is rice and vegetables in a stone pot, to which you add the egg and sweet chilli sauce and mix it all together. The service is excellent and there’s a pleasant alfresco garden. It’s down a courtyard near Tamas Lounge.
KC’s Restaurant (Map; 4701387; mains Rs 190-250) One of Thamel’s first restaurants, KC’s has been going since 1976 and is still one of the best places in town. The oatmeal pumpkin pie (Rs 190) is sweet but tasty, the salads and pasta are excellent, and there’s a good range of breakfasts, including sausage and beans in a bun. The terrace seating is very pleasant.
A good option for local Thakali daal bhaat is the Mustang Thakal (daal bhaat Rs 140), above the Shree Lal House of Vegetarian Restaurant, and popular with local Manangis.
MIDRANGE
Northfield Cafe (Map; breakfast Rs 115-220, mains Rs 240-350; 7am-10.30pm) Next door to Pilgrims, this open-air spot is the place for serious breakfast devotees (huevos rancheros included), with the option of half or full portions. The Mexican and Indian tandoori dishes (dinner only) are excellent and the sunny garden is a real plus in winter. It’s also one of the few places to offer kids’ meals.
Dechenling (Map; 4412158; mains Rs 150-260, fixed meal Rs 410) Quality Tibetan and Indian food is served up in this attractive beer garden, and it’s one of the few places in town to offer interesting Bhutanese dishes such as kewa dhatsi (potatoes and cheese curry). The thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup; Rs 150) is the best in Thamel. If you can’t decide, opt for a Tibetan or Bhutanese set meal washed down with a draught Everest Beer. No wonder the Tibetan name means Place of Joy.
K-Too Beer & Steakhouse (Map; 4700043; www.kilroygroup.com; mains Rs 160-450, glass of wine Rs 160-245) Run by the same people who run Kilroy’s, the decor and furnishings here are deliberately rough-and-ready pub style, and the food and atmosphere are excellent. Dishes range from Irish stew to spinach and potato salad with honey mustard dressing, and the excellent pepper steak (Rs 420) followed by fried apple momos is already a post-trekking classic. Live European football is broadcast on the TV. For a quieter vibe head for the garden.
Third Eye Restaurant (Map; mains Rs 200-230) Next door to Yin Yang, and run by the same people, this is a long-running favourite that retains something of the old Kathmandu atmosphere. There’s a sit-down section at the front, and a more informal section with low tables and cushions at the back and a rooftop terrace. Indian food is the speciality and the tandoori dishes are especially good.
Krua Thai Restaurant (Map; 4701291; mains Rs 200-280) North of Sam’s Bar, this is another good open-air Thai place. The food is reasonably authentic (ie spicy), with good curries, tom yam soup and papaya salad, although some dishes taste more Chinese than Thai.
NEPALI & NEWARI RESTAURANTS
A growing number of restaurants around town specialise in Nepali (mostly Newari) food (Click here for a rundown of Newari dishes). These run the gamut from unobtrusive little places in Thamel to fancy converted palaces with cultural shows, linen tablecloths and 15-course banquets. Most places offer a set meal, either veg or nonveg, and you dine on cushions at low tables. The ‘cultural shows’ consist of musicians and dancers performing ‘traditional’ song and dance routines. The whole thing is pretty touristy, but it’s a fun night out nonetheless. At most places it’s a good idea to make a reservation during the high season.
Thamel House Restaurant (Map; 4410388; www.thamelhouse.com.np; dishes Rs 225, veg/nonveg set meal Rs 550/650) This place is set in a traditional old Newari building and has bags of atmosphere. The food is traditional Nepali and Newari. Ask for the à la carte menu and choose individual dishes or go for the blowout set meal. It’s also open for lunch.
Baithak (Map; 4267346; 12-course set menu Rs 945, snacks Rs 200; 10am-10pm) At Babar Mahal Revisited, southeast of the centre (Click here), this restaurant has a dramatic and regal, almost Victorian, setting, with crystal and linens, and where diners are attended by waiters dressed in royal costume and watched over by looming portraits of various disapproving Ranas. The menu features ‘Rana cuisine’, a courtly cuisine created by Nepali Brahmin chefs and heavily influenced by north Indian Mughal cuisine. The setting is probably the most memorable part of the restaurant. Vegetarians will find plenty to eat here. The attached K2 Bar has a delightful terrace for a pre-dinner drink. A baithak is a royal suite or state room.
Nepali Chulo (Map; 4220475; set menu Rs 960, mains Rs 280) Closer to Thamel is this 157-year-old former Rana palace, the Phora Durbar. Most people choose the fixed menu of 11 dishes.
Bhojan Griha (Map; 4416423; www.bhojangriha.com; set menu Rs 997) In the same vein as Bhanchha Ghar (below), but perhaps more ambitious, Bhojan Griha is located in a recently restored 150-year-old mansion in Dilli Bazaar, just east of the city centre. It’s worth eating here just to see the imaginative renovation of this beautiful old building, once the residence of the caste of royal priests. Most of the seating is traditional (ie on cushions on the floor), although these are actually legless chairs, which saves your back and knees. In an effort to reduce waste, plastic is not used in the restaurant and mineral water is bought in bulk and sold by the glass.
Bhanchha Ghar (Map; 4225172; per person Rs 1000, beer Rs 250; 11am-10pm) You’ll find Bhanchha Ghar in a traditional three-storey Newari house in Kamaladi, just east of Durbar Marg, next to a Ganesh Temple. There is an upstairs loft bar where you can stretch out on handmade carpets and cushions for a drink, snacks and the obligatory cultural show (try to arrive before 7pm). You can then move downstairs to take advantage of an excellent set menu of traditional Nepali dishes and delicacies. Musicians stroll between the tables playing traditional Nepali folk songs.
Krishnarpan Restaurant (Map; 4470770; www.dwarikas.com; 6-course meal US$24, 22-course meal US$37; dinner only) One of the best places for Nepali food is the Krishnarpan Restaurant at Dwarika’s Hotel, east of the centre near the Ring Rd. The atmosphere is superb and the food gets consistent praise from diners. Bookings are advisable. If you are coming on Friday, arrive in time for the 6pm dance show in the hotel courtyard and take advantage of happy hour.
Ciao Ciao (Map; 4413724; Bhagwan Bahal; mains Rs 200-300) Further out on the fringes of Thamel, this restaurant is good for authentic Italian food, including interesting antipasti dishes and desserts like tiramisu, served in the garden or on the terrace.
La Dolce Vita (Map; 4700612; pizzas Rs 210-350, pasta Rs 250) Life is indeed sweet at Thamel’s best Italian bistro, offering up delights such as parmesan gnocchi; excellent antipasti; goat’s cheese, spinach and walnut ravioli; sinfully rich chocolate torte and wines by the glass. Choose between the rustic red-and-white tablecloths and terracotta tiles of the main restaurant, a rooftop garden, the yummy-smelling espresso bar (real Lavazza coffee) or sunny lounge space; either way the atmosphere and food are excellent. It’s right on the corner opposite Kathmandu Guest House.
Four Season Restaurant (Map; 4701715; Trilok Plaza; dishes Rs 250-310) A great location and some of the tastiest Thai and Indian food in town make this a good compromise if you fancy a chicken tikka masala but your date wants a green papaya salad. You can sit overlooking the road or on the rooftop under what looks like an aircraft hangar. One of the chefs is Thai, the other worked at the Rum Doodle for 17 years, so they know their stuff.
New Orleans Cafe (Map; 4700736; mains Rs 270-425) Hidden down an alley near the Brezel Bakery, New Orleans boasts a relaxed and intimate candlelit vibe and a great selection of music, often live. It’s a popular spot for a drink but the menu also ranges far and wide, from Thai curries and good burgers to Creole jambalaya and oven-roasted vegies, plus good breakfasts.
Yin Yang Restaurant (Map; 4425510; Thai curries Rs 280) Just south of the intersection, this is one of Thamel’s most highly regarded restaurants. It serves authentic Thai food cooked by a Thai chef with either garden or floor seating. It’s not cheap but the food is a definite cut above the imitation Thai food found elsewhere. The green curry is authentically spicy – the massaman curry (with onion, peanut and potato) is sweeter. There’s a good range of vegetable choices.
Fire & Ice Restaurant (Map; 4250210; 219 Sanchaya Kosh Bhawan, Tridevi Marg; pizzas Rs 320-380; 8am-11pm) Rumour has it that this was a favourite of Prince Dipendra and his girlfriend, before he massacred his entire family in 2001 (don’t worry, no one’s blaming the pizza). Regardless, it’s an excellent and informal Italian place, serving some of the best pizzas in Kathmandu, imported Italian soft-serve ice cream, seriously good Illy espresso and rousing opera – Italian, of course. It’s very popular and you’ll need a reservation in the high season.
Roadhouse Cafe (Map; 4267885; Arcadia Bldg; pizzas Rs 320-400) The big attraction here is the pizzas from the wood-fired oven. The pizzas are pretty darn good, and the decor, especially the courtyard out back, is warm and intimate. The salads, soups (tomato coconut soup), desserts (sizzling brownie with ice cream) and espresso coffees are all top-notch, though some say the service has slipped recently. Credit cards are accepted.
Kilroy’s (Map; 4250441; www.kilroygroup.com; mains Rs 345-700; 9am-10pm) Named after the Irish founder and chef, this place is a definite cut above the average Thamel restaurant. The menu ranges from Balti chicken (Rs 345) to Irish stew (Rs 355) and interesting hybrids such as seafood thukpa with lemongrass (Rs 400), plus great desserts, especially the bread-and-butter pudding (Rs 195). The menu is posted online. You can sit inside, or outside in the shady garden, complete with waterfall.
Freak Street (Jochne)
Freak St has a number of budget restaurants where you can find good food at lower prices than Thamel. Even if you’re staying in other areas of the city it’s nice to know there are some good places for lunch if you’re sightseeing around Durbar Sq.
Snowman Restaurant (Map; cakes Rs 50) A long-running and mellow, if slightly dingy, place, this is one of those rare Kathmandu hang-outs that attracts both locals and backpackers. The chocolate cake has been drawing overland travellers for close to 40 years now. When John Lennon starts singing ‘I am the Walrus’ on the stereo it suddenly feels like 1967 all over again…
Diyalo Restaurant (Map; mains Rs 70-130) At the Annapurna Lodge, this is a cosy little garden restaurant with a large menu, including tasty crêpes, burgers and a few Chinese, Mexican and Indian dishes, all for less than Rs 130.
Kumari Restaurant (Map; mains Rs 80-200, set Nepali meals Rs 160-195) Next to the Century Lodge, this friendly hang-out attracts the densest collection of dreadlocked travellers in Kathmandu and is one of few places that seems to have hung onto some of the mellowness of times past. All the travellers’ favourites are here.
Royal Park Guest House (Map; 4247487; mains Rs 150-250) For a good-value lunch with a view over Basantapur Sq, try the rooftop restaurant of this budget hotel on the square’s south side.
Festive Fare Restaurant (Map; 4232004; mains Rs 375; 9am-5pm) Overlooking Basantapur Sq, this restaurant has unsurpassed views from its top-floor terrace and attracts a mainly tour-group crowd. Prices are about double those of the Freak St cheapies.
Central Kathmandu
The restaurants in the Kantipath and Durbar Marg areas are generally more expensive than around Thamel, although there are a few exceptions. See the last few listings here and the boxed text, opposite, for some of Kathmandu’s worthwhile splurges.
BUDGET
Dudh Sagar (Map; 4232263; Kantipath; dosas Rs 40-70; 8am-8pm) This is the place to reacquaint yourself with South Indian vegetarian snacks like dosas and idly (pounded rice cakes), topped off with Indian sweets like barfi (fudge) and gulab jamun (deep-fried milk balls in rose-flavoured syrup). A masala dosa followed by dudh malai (cream cheese balls in chilled pistachio milk) makes a great meal for less than Rs 80.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Kaiser Cafe (Map 4425341; Garden of Dreams, Tridevi Marg; mains Rs 240-700; 9am-10pm) This cafe/restaurant in the Garden of Dreams is run by Dwarika’s (Click here) so quality is high. It’s a fine place for a light meal (such as crêpes stuffed with mushroom, asparagus and grated cheese) or to linger over a pot of tea or something stiffer at the stylish bar. The Austrian dishes are a nod to the country that financed and oversaw the garden’s restoration. You have to pay the garden’s admission fee to eat here.
Koto Restaurant (Map; 4226025; Durbar Marg; dishes Rs 250-300, set menu Rs 530; 11.30am-3pm & 6-9.15pm) Koto has long been a favourite of ours and, now that the Thamel branch is dead, you’ll have to head to pricier Durbar Marg for your fresh mackerel fix. There’s a wide range of decent Japanese dishes, from cold soba noodles to sukiyaki, plus several set menus.
1905 (Map; 4225272; www.1905restaurant.com; Kantipath; mains Rs 400-800) You can dine with ambassadors and ministers in this classy top-end restaurant set in a charming former Rana summer palace. The tables on a bridge over a wonderful lily pond add a definite colonial Burmese feel, so it’s fitting that there are several Southeast Asian dishes on offer. Lunch is light and casual, with sandwiches and salads. Dinner is a more serious affair, so dress up for dishes such as beef Wellington or salmon mousse layered in rainbow trout ratatouille and tomato hollandaise sauce. If nothing else, it’s a very romantic place for drinks.
Ghar-e-Kebab (Map; dishes Rs 425-800; 6.30-11pm) Inside the Hotel de l’Annapurna on Durbar Marg, this has some of the best north Indian and tandoori food in the city. Indian miniatures hang on the walls and in the evenings classical Indian music is played and traditional Urdu ghazals (love songs) are sung. Try the pistachio sherbet for dessert.
Chimney (Map; 4248999; mains Rs 600-1100; 6.30-10pm) At the Yak & Yeti Hotel, northwest of the centre, this is one of Kathmandu’s most famous restaurants, named after the famous open fireplace. It now serves mostly continental cuisine, with the excellent borscht and chicken à la Kiev two of the last links with its Russian roots.
Elsewhere
BUDGET
Lazimpat Gallery Cafe (Map; 4428549; Lazimpat; mains Rs 90-150; 9am-8pm Sun-Fri) This friendly place occupies a unique niche, somewhere between a greasy spoon and an art cafe, with a menu boasting both beans on toast and fresh carrot and coriander soup. Everything from the cakes to the juices is made fresh on the spot. It’s great for a cheap, light lunch, especially if you’re out in Lazimpat and suddenly need a cheese-and-ham toastie. It’s run by a British former VSO worker so it’s a popular hideaway for local volunteers. Friday night is film night and there’s free wi-fi all the time.
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Mike’s Breakfast (Map; 4424303; breakfasts Rs 160-290; 7am-9pm) As the name suggests, this place specialises in big American-style breakfasts (Mike was a former Peace Corps worker), served up to a mix of expats and well-heeled locals. It’s a bit out of the way but it’s certainly a laid-back way to start (and occupy most of) the day, in the attractive, leafy garden of an old Rana house. The breakfast menu includes excellent waffles, fresh juices and great eggs Florentine (Rs 345); all prices include organic Nepali coffee from Palpa. Lunch extends to Mexican quesadillas and daily salad/soup combos; the barbecue fires up on Sunday evenings (Rs 550). While you’re here take a wander through the excellent Indigo Gallery (Click here). The restaurant is in the suburb of Naxal, about 15 minutes’ walk from the top end of Durbar Marg.
Koketsu (Map; 6218513; Panipokhari; teppanyaki Rs 200-400, sushi Rs 300-1000; noon-3pm, 5-10pm) If your focus is more on eating than soaking, then Koketsu is probably the best Japanese place in town. It takes a brave person to order sushi in the Himalaya but the seafood here is flown in fresh from Thailand, as are the takosu (marinated octopus), squid and roe. The focal point of the restaurant is definitely the central teppanyaki grill. It’s no coincidence that the Japanese embassy is across the road.
Royal Hana Garden (Map; 4416200; Lazimpat; mains Rs 260-420; 10am-10pm) This place is a bit of a secret – there are two outdoor hot-spring baths (admission Rs 340, includes towel and shampoo, Thursday to Saturday from 3pm only) where you can luxuriate for as long as you like before heading inside for a very reasonably priced Japanese meal. It’s perfect for small groups and it’s worth ringing ahead to book a soak. The restaurant is in Lazimpat, just north of the Hotel Ambassador.
Chez Caroline (Map; 4263070; mains Rs 450-1150; 9.30am-10pm) In the Babar Mahal Revisited complex Click here, Caroline’s is a swanky outdoor cafe/restaurant popular with expat foodies. It offers French-influenced main courses such as wild mushroom tart with walnut sauce, quiche, salads and crêpes, plus imported cheese, daily specials and a wide range of desserts, teas and wines. Try a swift glass of pastis (liquorice-flavoured liqueur) with mint syrup: it’s the perfect aperitif to an afternoon’s shopping.
Dwarika’s Hotel has a candlelit Friday night poolside barbecue (Rs 899) and dance show that makes for a great splurge. See the boxed text, for details of the hotel’s Krishnarpan Restaurant.
There are also several excellent midrange and top-end dining options in Patan (Click here), a short taxi ride away.
Quick Eats
Curry Kitchen/Hot Bread (Map; pastries Rs 40-70) This bakery on the main Thamel junction does a roaring trade in sandwiches, bread rolls, pizza slices and pastries. Add an espresso and head upstairs to the sunny terrace for a leisurely breakfast. The ham-and-cheese rolls (Rs 65) make a great lunch on the run. Bakery items are discounted by 50% after 9.30pm.
Bakery Cafe (Map; 4422616; www.nanglos.com; Rs 60-150 snacks; Tridevi Marg; 7am-9.30pm) With branches on the eastern edge of Thamel, on Durbar Marg and in Patan (Click here), this buzzy chain offers excellent-value coffees and snacks for when you just need to take a break over an Americano and a plate of momos. The management have commendably hired deaf staff, which is perhaps one reason why the music is so bad.
Pumpernickel Bakery (Map; mains Rs 80-250) Bleary-eyed tourists crowd in here every morning for fresh croissants, yak-cheese sandwiches, pastries and filter coffee in the pleasant garden area at the back. The restaurant is self-service.
BK’s Place (Map; chips Rs 110-160) This place has a well-deserved reputation for good old-fashioned chips (French fries), with a variety of sauces, as well as good momos. It’s a tiny place, west of the Rum Doodle.
Weizen Bakery (Map; mains Rs 150-280) Down from the Yin Yang, this bakery restaurant serves good vegetarian food. It has a pleasant garden and is a nice quiet place for breakfast, with newspapers to read and music playing in the background. The bakery out front has decent cakes, breads (particularly the pretzels) and pastries, with bakery goods (but not cakes) discounted by 50% after 8pm.
Self-Catering
For trekking food such as noodles, nuts, dried fruit and cheese, there are a number of small supermarkets in Thamel, including the Best Shopping Centre (Map) on the edge of Thamel at the end of Tridevi Marg.
The Bluebird Supermarkets (Map) have a wide variety of goods. The largest branch is by the main bridge across the Bagmati River to Patan and has a decent food court; there’s another branch in Lazimpat, near the French embassy. The Kasthamandap Bazaar Supermarket (Map), just off the southern end of Durbar Marg, also has a good selection.
Bhat Bhateni Supermarket (Map; 4419181) is the largest in the city, though it has a slightly inconvenient location south of the Chinese embassy.
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DRINKING
There are a few bars scattered around Thamel, all within a short walk of each other. Just poke your nose in to see which has the crowd and style that appeals. Most places have a happy hour between 5pm and 8pm, with two-for-one cocktails. Thamel’s bar scene was hit recently by a government decision to close bars at 11pm, though this may change.
Rum Doodle Restaurant & Bar (Map; 4701208; mains Rs 270-500; 10am-10pm) Named after the world’s highest mountain, the 40,000½ft Mt Rum Doodle (according to WE Bowman, author of The Ascent of Rum Doodle, a spoof of serious mountaineering books), this famous bar is still milking a dusty (1983!) Time magazine accolade as ‘one of the world’s best bars’. It’s long been a favourite meeting place for mountaineering expeditions – Edmund Hillary, Reinhold Messner, Ang Rita Sherpa and Rob Hall have left their mark on the walls – and a visit here feels like a bit of a pilgrimage for mountain lovers. Trekking groups can add their own yeti footprint trek report to the dozens plastered on the walls. The restaurant serves up decent steaks, pasta and pizza and there’s often live music. You can eat here free for life – the only catch is that you have to conquer Everest first! It’s worth a visit but is somewhat overrated.
Maya Cocktail Bar (Map; cocktails Rs 200; 4-11pm) A long-running favourite; the two-for-one cocktails between 4pm and 7pm are a guaranteed jump-start to a good evening. The associated and nearby Pub Maya (Map) is somewhat more boisterous.
Tom & Jerry Pub (Map; pool per half hr Rs 50) Close to Nargila Restaurant, this is a long-running, rowdy upstairs place that has pool tables and a dance floor. Thursday is ladies’ night.
Jatra (Map; 4211010; mains Rs 160-220) An intimate and pretty cool venue for a beer or dinner, with indoor and outdoor seating. Friday nights bring live music jams; on Wednesdays ladies get a free cocktail.
Tamas Lounge (Map; 4275658; drinks Rs 300) Sex and the City fans will enjoy this glam lounge bar, decked out with plush, velvety sofas and a lush palette of cool creams. Take a seat in the courtyard or the old Rana house and indulge your inner princess with a sparkling Bellini or espresso martini. Live music livens things up on Saturday and Wednesday and a basement spa is on the way. The entrance is suitably low-key, hidden down an alleyway just south of Yin Yang Restaurant.
J-Bar (Map; 4418209; drinks Rs 250-300; 6pm-midnight Tue-Fri & Sun, 3pm-2am Sat) At the back of Himalayan Java, the J-Bar is more like a New York club than a Nepal bar, with cream leather interiors and pricey drinks; it’s a place to rub shoulders with Nepal’s beautiful set. Expect a cover charge on Fridays. After 10pm access is via the side alley.
Himalayan Java (Map; 4422519; Tridevi Marg; coffee Rs 60-100, breakfast Rs 110-200; 8am-9pm) Above the Bakery Cafe, this modern and buzzing coffeehouse serves good espresso and fine paninis and cakes, in addition to decent breakfasts. There’s a sunny balcony, lots of sofas and big-screen TV for the football, but from certain angles it feels a bit like a hotel foyer. It’s popular with hip middle-class Nepalis and there’s wi-fi.
Other long-timers include Sam’s Bar (Map; 4-11pm), a cosy place with reggae every Saturday, and Full Moon (Map; beer Rs 175; 6-11pm), a tiny chill-out bar and den of iniquity that draws a mixed Nepali-foreign clientele.
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ENTERTAINMENT
Nepal is an early-to-bed country and even in Kathmandu you’ll find few people on the streets after 10pm, especially when the capital’s political situation is tense. Most bars close their doors by 11pm, though a few keep serving those inside.
Duelling cover bands compete for aural supremacy at various Thamel restaurants on Friday and Saturday nights in the high season, particularly at Jatra and New Orleans Cafe – just follow your ears.
Beyond this, you could take in a Bollywood blockbuster or try to earn back your flight money at one of half a dozen casinos. Major sporting events such as Premier League football and Formula 1 grand prixs are televised in all the major bars.
There are also several cultural performances, which generally involve local youths wearing a variety of dress over their jeans and performing traditional dances from Nepal’s various ethnic groups, accompanied by a live band that includes a tabla, harmonium and singer.
Casinos
Kathmandu’s casinos are all attached to upmarket hotels and open 24 hours. Pull your tuxedo out of your backpack, polish up your best Sean Connery impersonation (‘Aaah, Mish Moneypenny…’) and make a beeline for the Casino Royale (Map; 4271244), set in a former Rana palace at the Yak & Yeti Hotel. Hang around the tables (not the slots) long enough and staff will ply you with free drinks and a dinner buffet, though sadly the Russian dancing girls have gone back to Moscow.
The other casinos, like Casino Anna (Map; 4225228) at the Hotel de l’Annapurna, attract a mainly Indian crowd. New casinos have opened recently at the Shangri-La and Malla hotels.
KATHMANDU ART
If you have a particular interest in Nepali art the following galleries might be worth visiting. Check the websites to see what’s being exhibited.
- Indigo Gallery (Map; 4424303; Naxal; 8.30am-5pm) An upmarket gallery at Mike’s Breakfast (Click here) set in a lovely old Rana building; excellent exhibits of modern thangkas, photography and prints, most for sale at top-end prices.
- National Birendra Art Gallery (Map; 4411729; admission Rs 75; 9am-5pm Sun-Fri) The offbeat location in a crumbling old Rana palace is probably more interesting than the dusty collection of Nepali oils and watercolours.
- Siddhartha Art Gallery (Map; 4218048; www.siddharthaartgallery.com; Babar Mahal Revisited; 11am-6pm Sun-Fri, noon-4pm Sat) The best in the city, with a wide range of top-notch exhibitions.
At all casinos you can play in either Indian rupees or US dollars, and winnings (in the same currency) can be taken out of the country when you leave. The main games offered are roulette and blackjack. Most clients are Indian; Nepalis are officially forbidden from entering.
Music & Dance
There are a few performances of Nepali music and dancing in the restaurants of the top-end hotels but little is scheduled. The best live music is to be found by heading further afield to Moksh in Patan.
Kalamandapa Institute of Classical Nepalese Performing Arts (Map; 4271545; admission incl tea Rs 400) Nepali dances (and occasional theatre) are performed here at the Hotel Vajra most Tuesdays at 7pm. Phone ahead to check schedules. There are authentic Newari music concerts (Rs 500) on Sunday, and sometimes Friday, evenings.
Gandharba Culture and Art Organisation (Map; 4700292; http://gandharbas.nyima.org) This is an organisation for the city’s musician caste. There are informal music jams between 5pm and 7pm at their offices on the 3rd floor above Equator Expeditions (tourists are welcome), but they also play in local restaurants such as the Northfield Cafe (Click here). Individual musicians offer music lessons for around Rs 200 per hour (Click here) and they also sell their own CDs.
Upstairs Jazz Bar (Map; 4410436; cover Rs 200) It’s worth schlepping out to Lazimpat on a Wednesday and Saturday night (from 8pm) to catch the live jazz in this tiny upstairs bar. The clientele is an interesting mix of locals and expats.
Weekly sitar concerts accompany dinner every Sunday at the Pilgrims Feed ‘N Read restaurant in Pilgrims Book House, and fusion music concerts are planned for Thursdays.
Cinemas
Sadly the video cafes made famous by the title of Pico Iyer’s book Video Night in Kathmandu have almost disappeared, with only a couple hanging on in Freak St.
Kathmandu Guest House Minitheatre (Map; admission Rs 100) The Kathmandu Guest House still shows nightly films in its 25-seat theatre.
Jai Nepal Cinema (Map; 4442220; www.jainepal.com; Narayanhiti Marg; stalls Rs 100-150, balcony Rs 200), on the south side of the New Royal Palace, and its branch the Kumari Cinema (Map) show some foreign films in English and are the best in town.
Elsewhere, Bollywood-style Hindi and Nepali films are the usual fare. Admission charges are minimal and the films are worth attending, since understanding the language is only a minor hindrance to enjoying these comedy-musical spectaculars. Indians call them ‘masala movies’ as they have a little bit of everything in them.
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SHOPPING
Everything that is turned out in the various centres around the valley can be found in Kathmandu, although you can often find a better choice, or more unusual items, in the centres that produce the items – Jawalakhel (southern Patan) for Tibetan carpets; Patan for cast-metal statues; Bhaktapur for woodcarvings; and Thimi for masks. For more tips on shopping Click here.
Thamel in particular can be a pretty stressful place to shop, what with all the tiger balm sellers, rickshaw drivers and high-speed motorbikers. Dive into a side street or garden haven when stress levels start to rise.
Amrita Craft Collection (Map; 4240757; www.amrita.com.np) This is a good place to start, with a broad collection of crafts and clothing. Subtract 20% from its fixed prices and you get a good benchmark for what you should aim to pay on the street if you don’t mind haggling. The branch across the road has a larger selection.
Aroma Garden (Map; 4420724) As the name suggests, this is Thamel’s sweetest-smelling shop. It’s a good one-stop shop for incense, essential oils, soaps and almost anything else that smells great.
Originally built in 1919, Babar Mahal Revisited (Map) is a unique complex of old Rana palace outbuildings that has been redeveloped to house a warren of chic clothes shops, designer galleries and handicraft shops, as well as a couple of top-end restaurants and bars. It’s aimed squarely at expats and wealthy locals so prices are as high as the quality. It’s southeast of the city near the Singh Durbar government offices.
There are dozens of shops in Thamel that sell handmade paper products from photo albums to paper lamps. One of the better shops is Paper Park (Map; 4700475; www.handmadepaperpark.com), next to the Hotel Marshyangdi.
Bronze Statues
Patan is the place to shop for statues (Click here). This is one area where research is vitally important, as quality and prices do not necessarily correlate. The best shops in central Kathmandu are on Durbar Marg; Curio Arts (Map; 4224871; www.devasarts.com) is a good place to start.
Clothing
Kathmandu is the best place for ready-to-wear Western clothes. Embroidered T-shirts are a popular speciality (our favourite has ‘Same Same…’ on the front and ‘…But Different’ on the back!) and you can custom any design or logo, preferably on your own higher-quality T-shirt. Expect it to shrink in the wash.
A few tailors in central Thamel and Lazimpat stock Chinese silks and can make pretty much anything that you can explain, including copies of your favourite shirt or dress. There are lots of funky hats, felt bags, jumpers etc, particularly on the twisting road known as Saatghumti, but please think twice before buying those red stripy juggling pants… Always try clothes on before handing over the cash.
DZI BEADS
Wherever you find Tibetan Buddhism, you’ll find the striped agate beads known as dzi. First recorded in 2000 BC, these beads are believed to act as amulets, protecting the wearer from spiritual and physical harm. Special properties are linked to the patterns of stripes and ‘eyes’ that are etched onto the surface of the beads and collectors have been known to pay more than US$5000 for a single bead. Some dzi even have marks where stone has been chipped away to be used as medicine. Interestingly, similar beads have been found in Neolithic tombs in Persia and the Mediterranean.
Popular and unique items include felt bags (from Rs 250) and impossibly cute baby-sized North Face fleeces (Rs 300) or Tibetan jackets.
Curios
An endless supply of curios, art pieces and plain old junk is churned out for the tourist trade. Most does not come from Tibet but from the local Tamang community and doesn’t date back much further than, well, last month, but that doesn’t put most people off. Basantapur Sq in old Kathmandu’s Durbar Sq is the headquarters for this trade, but before you lock wits with these operators, visit the Amrita Craft Collection (Map; 4240757).
Gems & Jewellery
Buying gems is always a risky business unless you know what you’re doing – Click here for a warning on gem scams. Be immediately suspicious of anyone who tells you that you will be able to make an enormous profit – if this was possible and legal they would do it themselves.
There are dozens of jewellery shops in Kathmandu – including in Thamel, on New Rd and Durbar Marg. When walking between Thamel and Durbar Sq you’ll often come across tiny silver workshops.
The prices for silver jewellery are very low compared with what you’d pay at home, and many people have jewellery made to order. You buy the stones or draw the design and they’ll make it up, usually in just a day or two. The quality is usually excellent, but be sure to agree on a price before giving the go-ahead.
If you feel like making your own adornments, many shops sell loose Tibetan beads, including ceremonial dzi beads (see the boxed text, opposite).
Fair-Trade Handicrafts
For general handicrafts such as handmade paper, ceramics and woodwork – much of it made by disadvantaged or minority groups – the best places are the showrooms of the nonprofit development organisations that are based in the Kopundol district of Patan. Click here for details. One of these shops, Mahaguthi (Map; 4438760; 10am-6.30pm Sun-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat), has an outlet in Lazimpat.
Other nearby fair trade shops include Folk Nepal (Map; 4414670; www.folknepal.org; 9am-7pm Sun-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat) and Third World Craft Nepal (Map; 2090500; www.thirdworldcraft.com), which, although not as interesting, are worth a quick look.
Indian Goods
Since the insurgency in Kashmir killed the tourist trade there, many Kashmiris have migrated to Nepal to sell traditional crafts such as carpets, cushions, tapestry, woollen shawls and papier mâché. These guys are excellent salespeople, so buy with caution.
You’ll also find a fair amount of embroidered clothing, cushions and bed linen from Gujarat and Rajasthan. Prices are higher than if you buy in India, but considerably less than if you buy in the West. Tridevi Marg is lined with colourful Indian bedspreads.
Photography
Dozens of photo shops in Thamel sell film and can process film or print out digital shots from around Rs 10 per print.
Digimax Tridevi Marg (Map; 4250163); Lazimpat (Map; 4429284) Fairly reliable, Digimax can handle colour prints and E-6 or Ektachrome slides. Mounted slide processing will cost you around Rs 500 for 36 slides. Passport photos are available on the spot (Rs 200 for nine photos).
Ganesh Photo Lab (Map; 4216898) In an alley southwest of Durbar Sq, Ganesh is an unlikely looking but reputedly good place for B&W processing.
New camera equipment can be a good deal in Nepal and the range of cameras and lenses is good. New Rd in central Kathmandu is the best place to look. Be sure to ascertain whether what you are buying has an international warranty.
Tea & Spices
Kathmandu is a good place to expand your home spice collection. Plenty of shops and supermarkets in Thamel sell small packets of spices, from momo mixes to chai spices, or head to Asan Tole (Click here), where the locals buy their freshly ground masalas.
Thangkas
The main centre for thangkas is just off Durbar Sq, and this is where you’ll find the best salespeople (not necessarily the best thangkas). For modern work there are plenty of places in Thamel.
Phaba Chengreshi Thangka Art School (Map; 4220428) You can see thangkas being painted on the spot at this school in Thamel.
Dharmapala Thangka Center (Map; 4223715; www.thangka.de) Down an arcade, off Durbar Marg, this is a showroom for a local school of thangka painting. You can see the thangkas being painted at the nearby workshop (Map).
Tibetan Thangka Gallery (Map; 4428863) Just past the Hotel Ambassador, this is another good little place. Thangkas are painted on the spot (you can watch the artists at work) and many pieces from here end up in the Durbar Sq shops with higher price tags.
Tibetan Antiques
Kathmandu seems to be the global clearing house for a continual stream of antiques from Tibet, including thangkas, carpets, jewellery, storage chests, religious objects, saddles and clothing. Considering the cultural damage that Tibet has endured over the last half century, removing some of what remains to safety is perhaps more morally acceptable than some other ‘collecting’ that goes on in Nepal (see the boxed text, for information on stolen Nepali artefacts). There are a number of good shops on Durbar Marg, but don’t go without a very healthy wallet.
For prayer flags (Map) and Tibetan and Bhutanese cloth, the best place is the street in front of the Kathesimbhu Stupa south of Thamel. Choose between cheaper polyester and better-quality cotton flags and remember, this is your karma that we are talking about.
Trekking Gear
Thamel has some excellent trekking gear for sale, but don’t think that you are getting the genuine article. Most of the ‘Columbia’ fleeces and ‘North Face’ jackets are made locally but with imported fleece and Gore-Tex, though most knick-knacks are imported. Click here for details on hiring and buying trekking gear. For reliable rentals and purchase try Shona’s Alpine Rental (Map; 4265120), which makes its own sleeping bags and offers unbiased advice on the best trek gear for your trip.
The better trekking gear shops are at the southern end of Thamel. Holyland Hiking Shop (Map; 4248104) and Everest Adventure Mountaineering (Map; 4259191) have been recommended.
A collection of pukka (authentic) gear shops on Tridevi Marg, including Mountain Hard Wear (Map; www.mountainhardwear.com.np) and the North Face, offer imported gear at foreign prices, These shops sell everything from Black Diamond climbing gear to proper Thermarests.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Click here for details of getting to/from Kathmandu both by air and by land from neighbouring countries.
Air
Even if your airline does not officially require you to reconfirm the return leg of your flight, you should check if this is required for flights out of Kathmandu. This goes double for the notoriously unreliable Nepal Airlines; at peak times you should reconfirm when you first arrive in Nepal and reconfirm again towards the end of your stay. Even this may not guarantee you a seat – make sure you get to the airport very early as people at the end of the queue can still be left behind.
DOMESTIC AIRLINES
The various domestic airlines have sales offices around the city but locations and phone numbers seem to change with the weather. Anyway, it’s far less hassle to buy tickets through a travel agency, and you’ll probably get a better deal this way. Click here for an overview of domestic airlines.
The Nepal Airlines
domestic office (Map; 4227133; 10am-1pm & 2-5pm) has computerised booking on five routes: Pokhara, Jomsom, Lukla, Bharatpur and Manang. Other domestic flights are booked in a much more haphazard manner, with the booking clerk happy to issue tickets as long as people keep fronting up with money. Book these tickets at the office to the side of the main Nepal Airlines international booking centre (the entrance is around the back). A special tourist counter here avoids the bulk of the booking chaos and often offers discounts of around 20% on domestic fares. The other domestic carriers are much more reliable.
Bus
LONG-DISTANCE BUSES
The Kathmandu bus station (Map; Ring Rd, Balaju) is north of the city centre. It is officially called the Gongabu Bus Park, but is generally known as the Kathmandu Bus Terminal, or simply ‘bus park’. This bus station is basically for all long-distance buses, including to Pokhara and destinations in the Terai. It’s a huge and confusing place and there are very few signs in English, but most of the ticket sellers are very helpful. There’s often more than one reservation counter for each destination. Bookings for long trips should be made a day in advance – Thamel travel agents will do this for a fee.
Bus No 23 (Rs 12) runs to the bus station from Lekhnath Marg on the northern edge of Thamel but takes an age. A taxi from Thamel costs around Rs 100.
Note that buses to Dhunche and Syabrubesi run from both the Kathmandu bus station and the stand diagonally across from it.
The exceptions to this are the popular tourist buses to Pokhara (Rs 400 to Rs 450, seven hours) that depart daily at around 7am from a far more convenient location at the Thamel end of Kantipath (Map). Buses are comfortable and you get a fixed seat number with your ticket. For more details Click here.
BUSES FROM RATNA PARK BUS STATION
BUSES FROM KATHMANDU BUS STATION
There are also tourist buses to Sauraha for Chitwan National Park (Rs 400 to Rs 450, five to seven hours). For details Click here.
Greenline (Map; 4253885; www.greenline.com.np; Tridevi Marg; 7am-5.30pm) offers air-con deluxe services that are considerably more expensive than the tourist buses (but include lunch). There are daily morning buses at 7.30am to Pokhara (US$18, seven hours) and Chitwan (US$15, six hours), with a lunch break and bus change in Kurintar. A service to Lumbini (US$25) is currently on hold but may resume. You should book a day in advance.
Golden Travels (Map; 4220036; Woodlands Complex, Durbar Marg) runs similar services, departing at 6.30am from Kantipath to Pokhara (US$15 with lunch) and 6.30am from Sundhara to Sunauli (US$14), the latter changing buses in Kalanki.
TO/FROM THE KATHMANDU VALLEY
Buses for destinations within the Kathmandu Valley, and for those on or accessed from the Arniko Hwy (for Jiri, Barabise and Kodari on the Tibetan border), operate from the Ratna Park bus station (Map), also known as the old bus stand, in the centre of the city on the eastern edge of Tundikhel parade ground. The station is a bit of a horror, drenched in diesel fumes, with no English signs and not much English spoken. Keep shouting out your destination and someone will eventually direct you to the right bus.
As with anything in Nepal, however, there are exceptions to the rule. Buses to Bhaktapur (Rs 20, one hour) run from a stand (Map) on Bagh Bazar.
Buses to Pharping (Rs 21, two hours) and Dakshinkali (Rs 32, 2½ hours) leave from Shahid Gate (Martyrs’ Memorial) at the southern end of the Tundikhel parade ground (Map), as well as the Ratna Park station.
Buses heading to Bungamati, Godavari and Chapagaon in the southern valley leave from Patan – Click here.
Car
Although you cannot rent cars on a drive-yourself basis, they can be readily rented with a driver from a number of operators. The rental cost is high, both in terms of the initial hiring charge and fuel. Charges are as high as US$50 per day, although they can be lower, especially if you are not covering a huge distance.
Wayfarers (Click here) can arrange car hire for a one-way drop to Pokhara (Rs 6875) or Chitwan (Rs 6200). Sightseeing around the Kathmandu Valley costs around Rs 1100/2100 for a half/full day, depending on the itinerary.
Taxi
A better option than hiring a car is to hire a taxi for the day. Between several people, longer taxi trips around the valley, or even outside it, are affordable. A half-/full-day sightseeing trip within the valley costs around Rs 800/1500.
For longer journeys outside the valley count on about Rs 2500 per day plus fuel, which is generally cheaper than hiring a car through a travel agency.
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GETTING AROUND
The best way to see Kathmandu and the valley is to walk or ride a bicycle. Most of the sights in Kathmandu itself can easily be covered on foot, and this is by far the best way to appreciate the city. If and when you run out of steam, there are plenty of reasonably priced taxis available.
The closest taxi stand to Thamel is on Tridevi Marg, close to the junction with Jyatha Rd (Map).
To/From the Airport
Kathmandu’s international airport is called Tribhuvan Airport (Map; 4472256) after the late king; the area’s former name Gaucher (literally ‘cow pasture’) speaks volumes about Kathmandu’s rapid urban expansion. Click here for details of arrival and departure procedures.
Getting into town is quite straightforward. Both the international and domestic terminals offer a fixed price pre-paid taxi service, currently Rs 500 to Thamel.
Once outside the international terminal you will be confronted by hotel touts, who are often taxi drivers making commission on taking you to a particular hotel. Many hold up a signboard of the particular hotel they are connected with and, if the one you want is there, you can get a free lift. The drawback with the taxis is that the hotel is then much less likely to offer you a discount, as it will be paying a hefty commission (up to 50% of the room) to the taxi driver.
If you book a room in advance, most hotels will pick you up direct for free and there’s no commission.
Public buses leave from the main road – about 300m from the terminal – but they’re only really practical if you have very little luggage and know exactly how to get to where you want to go.
From Kathmandu to the airport you should be able to get a taxi for Rs 250 during daylight hours, a bit more for a late or early flight.
For departure formalities Click here.
Bicycle
Once you get away from the crowded streets of Kathmandu, cycling is a pleasure and, if you’re in reasonable shape, this is the ideal way to explore the valley. Click here for general information on biking and some route ideas.
Mountain bikes cost around Rs 250 to Rs 350 per day for simple models. For longer trips around the valley, the major mountain bike companies such as Dawn Till Dusk, Himalayan Mountain Bikes and Path Finder Cycling hire out high-quality bikes with front suspension for around Rs 700. Click here for company details.
If you want to make an early start, most places are happy to give you the bike the evening before. For all bikes, negotiate discounts for rentals of more than a day. Check the brakes before committing and be certain to lock the bike whenever you leave it.
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Bus
Buses are very cheap, but often unbelievably crowded and limited in where they can go to in Kathmandu. The smaller minibuses are generally quicker and can be useful to places like Bodhnath and Patan if you can work out the routes.
Cycle-Rickshaw
Cycle-rickshaws cost Rs 30 to Rs 50 for most rides around town – because you have to negotiate all fares they can actually be more expensive than going by taxi. The tourist rate from Thamel to Durbar Sq is Rs 50. You must agree on a price before you start.
Motorcycle
There are a number of motorcycle rental operators in Thamel. You will have to leave a deposit of either your passport or air ticket. For Rs 350 per day you’ll get a 125cc Indian-made Honda road bike, which is generally fine for road trips in the Kathmandu Valley. A 250cc trail bike costs around Rs 600 per day.
Officially, you need an international driving licence to ride a motorbike in Nepal. This regulation hasn’t been enforced for years but recent reports suggest traffic police are targeting foreigners on this and other hitherto disregarded traffic violations in an attempt to raise funds. A traffic fine will set you back around Rs 1050.
Singh Motorbike Centre (Map; 4418594; 8am-7pm) is a reliable place for bike hire. Choose from a Hero Honda (Rs 250 per day), Yamaha 125cc (Rs 350) or Pulsar 150cc (Rs 500).
Pheasant Transportation Service (Map; 4701090) in a side street off the central Thamel junction has somewhat slippier prices, ranging from Rs 400 for a Yamaha 125cc to Rs 800 for a Hero Honda or Rs 1200 for an Enfield Bullet.
Motorcycles can be great fun outside the town, once you master the traffic. The main problem is getting out of Kathmandu, which can be a stressful, choking and dangerous experience. You will need a pair of goggles and some kind of face mask (available in most pharmacies).
Fuel currently costs Rs 100 (and rising) per litre; you’ll only need a couple of litres for a day trip. Beyond the ring road petrol stations are few and far between.
Safa Tempos
These electric and ecofriendly three-wheeled vans serve various routes around town from a confusing collection of stands alongside the main post office on Kantipath (Map). Unfortunately, few drivers speak English, there are few English signs and the routes can be fiendishly complicated. Blue signs marked with the white outline of a tempo indicate a stop – fares start from Rs 10.
Taxi
Taxis are quite reasonably priced. The charge for a metered taxi is Rs 10 flagfall and Rs 4.80 for every 200m; drivers don’t usually take too much convincing to use the meter for short trips, although from major tourist centres you may have to negotiate. Shorter rides around town (including to the bus station) rarely come to more than Rs 100. Night-time rates (between 10pm and 6am) cost 50% more.
Most taxis are tiny Suzuki Marutis, which can just about fit two backpackers and their luggage.
Taxis can be booked in advance on 4420987; at night call 4224374.
Other approximate taxi fares from Thamel include:
- Pashupatinath Rs 150
- Swayambhunath Rs 150
- Bodhnath Rs 200
- Patan Rs 200
- Budhanilkantha Rs 500
- Bhaktapur Rs 700
- Changu Narayan Rs 1000
- Nagarkot Rs 2500
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AROUND KATHMANDU
There are several outlying attractions inside the ring road that surrounds Kathmandu. All can be reached by taxi or rickshaw, by rented bicycle or motorcycle, or on foot. For sights and spectacles outside the ring road, Click here.
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SWAYAMBHUNATH
A journey up to the Buddhist temple of Swayambhunath is one of the definitive experiences of Kathmandu. Mobbed by monkeys and soaring above the city on a lofty hilltop, the ‘Monkey Temple’ is a fascinating, chaotic jumble of Buddhist and Hindu iconography.
The compound is centred around a gleaming white stupa, topped by a gilded spire painted with the eyes of the Buddha. Depictions of these eyes appear all over the Kathmandu Valley.
Coming to Swayambhunath is an intoxicating experience, with ancient carvings jammed into every spare inch of space and the smell of incense and butter lamps hanging heavy in the air. The mystical atmosphere is heightened in the morning and evening by local devotees who make a ritual circumnavigation of the stupa, spinning the prayer wheels set into its base. It is a great place to watch the sun set over Kathmandu.
According to legend, the Kathmandu Valley was once a lake – geological evidence supports this – and the hill now topped by Swayambhunath rose spontaneously from the waters, hence the name swayambhu, meaning ‘self-arisen’.
The emperor Ashoka allegedly visited 2000 years ago, but the earliest confirmed activity here was in AD 460. During the 14th century, Mughal invaders from Bengal broke open the stupa in the search for gold, but the stupa was restored and expanded over the following centuries.
Sights
EASTERN STAIRWAY
There are two ways to approach Swayambhunath temple (foreigner/SAARC 100/50), but by far the most atmospheric is the stone pilgrim stairway that climbs the eastern end of the hill. Constructed by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century, this steep stone staircase is mobbed by troops of rhesus macaques, who have made an artform of sliding down the steep handrails. A word of advice: keep foodstuffs out of sight of these simian hoodlums!
From a collection of brightly painted Buddha statues at the bottom of the hill, the steps climb past a series of chaityas and bas-reliefs, including a stone showing the birth of the Buddha, with his mother Maya Devi grasping a tree branch. You can often see Tibetan astrologers reading fortunes here. At the top, the steps are lined with pairs of Garudas, lions, elephants, horses and peacocks, the ‘vehicles’ of the Dhyani Buddhas. Near the end of the climb is the ticket office (there’s another one at the western entrance, near the tourist bus park). When you reach the top, remember to walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction.
GREAT THUNDERBOLT
At the top of the eastern stairway is an enormous, brass-plated dorje (celestial thunderbolt), one of the core symbols of Tibetan Buddhism. Known as the vajra in Sanskrit, the thunderbolt is a symbol of the power of enlightenment, which destroys ignorance, but is itself indestructible. In rituals the dorje is used to indicate male power, while female power is represented by a ceremonial bell.
Around the pedestal supporting the symbol are the animals of the Tibetan calendar; flanking the plinth are the Anantapura and Pratapura temples, two slender, Indian-style shikharas built by King Pratap Malla in the 17th century. Nearby is a viewpoint and a raised area with telescopes for hire.
SWAYAMBHUNATH STUPA
The Swayambhunath stupa is one of the crowning glories of Kathmandu Valley architecture. This perfectly proportioned monument seems to hint at some celestial perfection with its gleaming, gilded spire and white-washed dome. From the spire, four faces of the Buddha stare out across the valley in the cardinal directions. The noselike squiggle below the piercing eyes is actually the Nepali number ek (one), signifying unity, and above is a third eye signifying the insight of the Buddha. The entire structure of the stupa is symbolic – the white dome represents the earth, while the 13-tiered, beehivelike structure at the top symbolises the 13 stages that man must pass through to achieve nirvana.
The base of the central stupa is ringed by prayer wheels embossed with the sacred mantra om mani padme hum (‘hail to the jewel in the lotus’). Pilgrims circuiting the stupa spin each one as they pass by. Fluttering above the stupa are thousands of prayer flags, with similar mantras, which are said to be carried to heaven by the winds. Set in ornate plinths around the base of the stupa are statues representing the Dhyani Buddhas – Vairocana, Ratnasambhava, Amitabha, Amocha Siddhi (Amoghasiddhi) and Aksobhya – and their shaktis (consorts). These deities represent the five qualities of Buddhist wisdom.
STUPA PLATFORM
The great stupa is surrounded on all sides by a veritable sculpture garden of religious monuments. At the rear of the stupa, next to a small, poorly lit museum of Buddhist statuary, is the Kargyud-school Dongak Chöling gompa, set above a brick path. Take your shoes off to view the murals inside.
North of the pilgrim shelter is the pagoda-style Hariti (Ajima) Temple, with a beautiful image of Hariti, the goddess of smallpox. This Hindu goddess, who is also responsible for fertility, illustrates the seamless interweaving of Hindu and Buddhist beliefs in Nepal.
Mounted on pillars near the Hariti Temple are figures of Tara making the gesture of charity, with an upturned palm. In fact, there are two Taras, Green Tara and White Tara, said to be the Chinese and Nepali wives of King Songtsen Gampo, the first royal patron of Buddhism in Tibet. The Taras are also female consorts to two of the Dhyani Buddhas.
Nearby, bronze images of the river goddesses Jamuna and Ganga guard an eternal flame in a cage. Northwest of these statues is a garden of ancient chaityas, and at the back of this group is a slick black statue of Dipankara, carved in the 7th century. Also known as the ‘Buddha of Light’, Dipankara is one of the ‘past Buddhas’ who achieved enlightenment before the time of Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha. Also note the black chaitya at the north end of the courtyard, set atop a yoni – a clear demonstration of the mingling of Hindu and Buddhist symbology.
Back at the northeast corner of the complex is the Shree Karmaraja Mahavihar, a Buddhist temple enshrining a 6m-high figure of Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha. A prayer service takes place every day at around 4pm, accompanied by a cacophony of crashing cymbals, honking horns and the rumbling chanting of Sutras (Buddhist texts).
Symbols of the five elements – earth, air, water, fire and ether – can be found around the hilltop. Behind the Anantapura temple are shrines dedicated to Vasupura, the earth symbol, and Vayupura, the air symbol. Nagpura, the symbol for water, is a stone set in a muddy pool just north of the stupa, while Agnipura, the symbol for fire, is the red-faced god on a polished boulder on the northwestern side of the platform. Shantipura, the symbol for the sky, is north of the platform, in front of the Shantipura building.
WESTERN STUPA
If you follow either path leading west from the main stupa, you will reach a smaller stupa near the car park for tourist buses. Just behind is a gompa surrounded by rest houses for pilgrims and an important shrine to Saraswati, the goddess of learning. At exam time, many scholars come here to improve their chances, and school children fill the place during Basanta Panchami, the Festival of Knowledge.
Eating & Drinking
If you need a break, you can grab a reviving cup of chiya (milk tea) at the hole-in-the-wall Didi’s Tibetan Tea Shop (drinks from Rs 20) or stop and get lunch at tourist-oriented Cafe De Stupa (dishes from Rs 100).
Getting There & Away
You can approach Swayambhunath by taxi (Rs 150), by bicycle or as part of an easy stroll from Kathmandu. Taxis can drop you at the tourist bus park at the western end of the hill or the steep pilgrim stairway at the eastern end of the hill.
Safa tempo No 20 (Rs 10) shuttles between Swayambhunath’s eastern stairway and Kathmandu’s Sundhara district (near the main post office).
WALKING & CYCLING
There are two popular walking or bicycle routes to Swayambhunath – using both offers a pleasant circuit, either in the direction described or in reverse.
Starting at the Chhetrapati Tole junction near Thamel, the road runs west to the Vishnumati River (with Swayambhunath clearly visible in the distance), passing the pagoda-style Indrani Temple, which is surrounded by ghats (riverside steps) used for cremations.
Cross the river and detour right to the Shobabaghwati Temple, with its gaudy painted statues of Shiva and other Hindu deities. Return to the bridge and follow the steps uphill past the courtyard-style Bijeshwori Temple, following an arcade of religious shops to the statue-lined stairway at the east end of Swayambhunath hill.
You can return to the centre of Kathmandu via the National Museum (see right). From the bottom of the eastern stairway, go west around the base of the hill and turn left at the first major junction, then left again at the large T-junction to reach the museum. Continue southeast along this road to reach Tankeshwor, then turn left again and cross the Vishnumati River. On the other side, it’s a short walk north to the bottom of Durbar Sq.
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AROUND SWAYAMBHUNATH
There are several other sights scattered around Swayambhunath. Before moving on, join the Tibetan pilgrims on a clockwise kora or parikrama (pilgrim circuit) around the base of the hill, passing a series of gigantic chörtens (reliquary shrines), mani dungkhor (giant prayer wheels) and Buddhist chapels.
Starting from the eastern gateway to Swayambhunath, walk around the southwest side of the hill, passing the turn-off to the tourist bus park and the Natural History Museum (see below). The path meets the Ring Rd at Buddha Amideva Park (Map), a compound containing three enormous shining gold statues of Sakyamuni, Chenresig and Guru Rinpoche, constructed in 2003. Return past the string of chörtens and chapels along the north side of the hill.
Natural History Museum
Below Swayambhunath, on the road to the tourist bus park, the Natural History Museum (Map; admission Rs 30; 10am-4pm Sun-Fri, closed government holidays) offers a faded but quirky collection of exhibits, including varnished crocodiles, model dinosaurs and mounted animal heads that look suspiciously like hunting trophies. The museum provides a valuable service to local school children and it could use more support.
National Museum
Around 800m south of Swayambhunath at Chhauni, the National Museum (Map; 4271504; Tahachal; foreigner/SAARC Rs 100/40, camera foreigner Rs 50; 10.30am-5pm Wed-Mon Apr-Oct, 10.30am-3.30pm Wed-Sun, 10.30am-2pm Mon Nov-Mar) faces onto a huge army barracks. The walled compound looks a little moth-eaten and overgrown, but there are some interesting treasures on display and the museum is never crowded.
As you enter the compound, turn left to reach the Judda Art Gallery, which contains some exquisite stone, metal and terracotta statues of Nepali deities and fabulous Hindu cloth paintings. Look out for the statue of buffalo-headed Sukhavara Samvara with 34 arms, 16 feet and 10 faces! You can climb to the top of the building for great views of Swayambhunath, but watch your footing as there are no guard rails.
At the back of the compound is the temple-style Buddha Art Gallery. As well as Buddhist statues, votive objects, thangkas, photos and manuscripts as big as coffee tables, there are some informative displays on the ancient mandalas (geometric Buddhist diagrams) dotted around the Kathmandu Valley. In the centre of the building is a three-dimensional mandala made up of flags.
To the north of the main compound, housed in a handsome Rana-era palace, is the Historical Museum, which displays a blood-thirsty collection of weapons, including the personal kukris (daggers), katars (punch-daggers), tulwars (curved swords) and khandas (hatchet swords) of such national heroes as Prithvi Narayan Shah, the founder of Nepal. Note the leather cannon seized in the 1792 Nepal-Tibet War.
In the same building, the Natural History Museum displays stuffed animals and old bones, including, bizarrely for this landlocked location, the jaws of a whale. Upstairs are the rather matter-of-fact Numismatic Museum, with old coins and banknotes, and Philatelic Museum, with lots of Nepali first-day covers.
Ticket sales stop an hour before closing time; bags must be left in the free lockers at the gate. See Getting There & Away under Swayambhunath for directions to the museum.
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Around the Kathmandu Valley | 
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HISTORY
CLIMATE
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
GETTING AROUND
AROUND THE RING ROAD
PASHUPATINATH
CHABAHIL
BODHNATH (BOUDHA)
AROUND BODHNATH
THE NORTHWESTERN VALLEY
ICHANGU NARAYAN
BALAJU
NAGARJUN FOREST RESERVE
BUDHANILKANTHA
SHIVAPURI NATIONAL PARK
PATAN
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING
DRINKING
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
BHAKTAPUR
HISTORY
ORIENTATION
INFORMATION
SIGHTS
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
SLEEPING
EATING & DRINKING
SHOPPING
GETTING THERE & AWAY
AROUND BHAKTAPUR
SURIYA BINAYAK TEMPLE
THIMI
CHANGU NARAYAN TEMPLE
THE NORTHEASTERN VALLEY
GOKARNA MAHADEV TEMPLE
GOKARNA FOREST
SANKHU
THE SOUTHERN VALLEY
KIRTIPUR
CHOBAR
PHARPING
AROUND PHARPING
BUNGAMATI
CHAPAGAON
AROUND CHAPAGAON
GODAVARI
AROUND GODAVARI
THE VALLEY FRINGE
NAGARKOT
BANEPA
DHULIKHEL
PANAUTI
AROUND PANAUTI
BEYOND THE VALLEY
ARNIKO HIGHWAY TO TIBET
THE ROAD TO LANGTANG
Once upon a time, the valley surrounding Kathmandu was a vast lake, trapped by the uprising of the Himalaya. According to legend, the yogi Manjushree saw a sacred lotus rising from the waters and opened a channel with his sword to drain the waters. So the Kathmandu Valley was born. Today, this natural basin is a patchwork of terraced fields and sacred temple towns that showcase the glory of the architects and artisans of Nepal. If Kathmandu is the head of Nepal, the valley could be its heart.
Few visitors leave Nepal without seeing at least the Unesco World Heritage–listed towns of Patan and Bhaktapur, which once jostled for power with Kathmandu. However, the whole valley is a living museum of Nepali culture. It is hard to go more than a few hundred metres without stumbling upon a medieval village or centuries-old temple.
There’s so much to see here – just set out from Kathmandu and explore. Buses are frequent and inexpensive and all of the attractions in this chapter can be explored by rented mountain bike or motorcycle, or even on foot, utilising a series of shortcuts that can shave hours off the journey by road.
As well as Patan and Bhaktapur, be sure to make time for Pashupatinath, the sacred funeral compound beside the Bagmati River, and Bodhnath, the gigantic stupa that acts as a spiritual lodestone for Nepal’s Tibetan Buddhists. Between these famous sights are smaller Newari towns and villages that lie well off the mainstream tourist circuit. In fact, you’ll see fewer tourists just 10km outside Kathmandu than you will if you trek for days through the Himalaya!
HIGHLIGHTS
- Have your mind blown by the glorious Newari architecture of Patan’s Durbar Square
- Get lost in the fascinating backstreets of Bhaktapur, Nepal’s best-preserved medieval town
- Join the pilgrims on the parikrama (clockwise circuit) around the enormous Bodhnath Stupa
- Have a mini-adventure in the little-visited towns of the Southern Valley – Kirtipur, Bungmati and Chobar
- Wake up to bedside views of the Himalaya from your hotel in Nagarkot, Dhulikhel or Kakani
- Escape the crowds and find the real spirit of Nepal in the temple town of Panauti
- TELEPHONE CODE: 03
- POPULATION: 4.7 MILLION
- AREA: 227,420 SQ KM
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HISTORY
The legend that the Kathmandu Valley was formed from a vanished lake is in fact quite true. The uprising of the Himalaya trapped rivers draining south from Tibet, creating a vast lake that eventually burst its banks and drained away around 10,000 years ago.
As the valley was settled by people from the north and south, it became an important entrepôt on the trade route from India to Tibet. Hinduism and Buddhism were introduced from India and transported north across the Himalaya by saints such as Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche). In time, migrating Tibeto-Burman tribes carried Buddhism back into Nepal, fusing Tantric Indian beliefs with the ancient Bön religion of Tibet. This has resulted in a fascinating hybrid culture, where Hindu and Buddhist beliefs infuse every aspect of Nepali life.
Historically, the Kathmandu Valley was the homeland of the Newars, a mixed tribe of Indian and Tibeto-Burman origin. Much of the iconography, architecture and culture associated with Nepal today is actually Newari culture. For more on the customs and traditions of the Newars, Click here.
The first formal records of Newari history come from the Licchavi era (AD 400 to 750), but the golden age of the Newars came in the 17th century when the valley was dominated by three rival city-states – Kantipur (Kathmandu), Lalitpur (Patan) and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur) – all competing to outshine each other with architectural brilliance. The reign of the Malla kings (Click here) saw the construction of many of Nepal’s most iconic palaces, temples and monuments.
The unification of Nepal in 1768–69 by Prithvi Narayan Shah signalled the end of this three-way struggle for supremacy. Nepali, an Indo-European language spoken by the Khas of western Nepal, replaced Newari as the country’s language of administration and Kathmandu became the undisputed capital of the nation.
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CLIMATE
The Kathmandu Valley is best visited before or after the monsoon. The summer – May to September – is hot and humid, with regular rainfall and temperatures exceeding 30°C. From November to February night-time temperatures plummet and early-morning bus rides become a chilly ordeal. It never snows at the bottom of the Kathmandu Valley, but the valley rim often gets a dusting from December to February – wear appropriate clothing if you visit Nagarkot, Dhulikhel or any of the other Himalayan viewpoints.
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DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Since the Maoists formed government, political violence has dropped off markedly. There are occasionally violent exchanges between the youth wing of the Maoists and the youth wings of opposition parties, but these only affect travellers if political leaders call a bandh (general strike) – Click here for more information.
If you explore the Kathmandu Valley on a rented motorcycle, be wary of the traffic police, particularly after dark. Locals are routinely stung with fines for trumped up traffic offences and foreigners are being increasingly targeted.
Women in particular should avoid hiking alone in remote corners of the valley. For general security advice Click here.
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GETTING AROUND
If you intend to do any biking, hiking or motorcycling, it’s worth investing in Nepa Maps’ rather useful 1:50,000 Around the Kathmandu Valley or Himalayan Maphouse’s Biking Around Kathmandu Valley. Both are available from bookstores in Kathmandu.
Bicycle & Motorbike
By far the easiest and most economical way of getting around the valley is by rented bicycle or motorbike – Click here for rental companies. On day trips, give yourself time to get back to Kathmandu by nightfall – you really don’t want to ride these roads after dark.
Once you get beyond the Kathmandu Ring Rd, there is surprisingly little traffic and the valley offers some spectacular riding country. However, take corners slowly as buses and trucks will not give way. Be sure to securely lock your bike or motorcycle when you stop and carry plenty of petrol from Kathmandu as rural petrol stations regularly run dry.
See the Outdoor Activities chapter Click here for details of some of the excellent cycling routes around the Kathmandu Valley.
Bus & Taxi
From Kathmandu’s Ratna Park (City) bus station, inexpensive public buses run to every town in the valley, though you may need to change in Patan or Bhaktapur. However, the buses can be incredibly crowded, and ye gods are they slow. As a more comfortable alternative, consider hiring a car or taxi (Rs 800 per half-day, or Rs 1500 per full day) – this can be quite economical if you share the costs with other travellers.
Foot
There are many interesting day hikes and overnight treks around the valley, allowing you to take shortcuts that are not accessible by bicycle or motorcycle.
Organised Tours
Many of the travel agents in Thamel can arrange day trips around the valley, but standards vary. One reliable operator is Wayfarers (Map; 4266010; www.wayfarers.com.np; Thamel, Kathmandu). Guided walks through Kirtipur, Khokana, Bungmati and Chapagaon (US$35 per person) leave on Wednesday and Saturday. Three-day trips to Panauti, Namobuddha, Dhulikhel, Nagarkot and Sankhu (US$135 per person) leave on Thursday and Sunday.
Click here for information on organised mountain-bike trips around the valley.
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AROUND THE RING ROAD
There are several interesting sights just outside the Kathmandu Ring Rd, all accessible by public transport, on foot, or by rented bike or motorcycle.
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PASHUPATINATH
Nepal’s most important Hindu temple stands on the banks of the holy Bagmati River, surrounded by a bustling market of religious stalls selling marigolds, prasad, incense, rudraksha beads, conch shells, pictures of Hindu deities and temples, tika powder in rainbow colours, glass lingams, models of Mt Meru and other essential religious paraphernalia.
At first glance, Pashupatinath might not look that sacred – the temple is just a few hundred metres from the end of the runway at Tribhuvan International Airport, overlooking a particularly polluted stretch of the Bagmati. However, in religious terms, this is a powerhouse of Hindu spiritual power. Elsewhere in Nepal, Shiva is worshipped in his wrathful form as the destructive Bhairab, but at Pashupatinath, he is celebrated as Pashupati, the lord of the beasts.
Devotees of Shiva and sadhus flock to Pashupatinath from across the subcontinent and many Nepalis choose to be cremated on the banks of the holy river. Even the kings of Nepal used to come here to ask for a blessing from Pashupati before commencing any important journey. Nepal’s Dalit (untouchable) community was only allowed access to the shrine in 2001!
Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the surrounding complex of Shaivite shrines, lingams and ghats (stone steps) is fascinating and highly photogenic. Groups of ‘photo me’ sadhus loiter around in outlandish paraphernalia hoping to make a little extra money posing for tourist photos. Be respectful with your camera at the funeral ghats – you wouldn’t take snaps of bereaved relatives at a funeral back home, so don’t do it here.
You can visit Pashupatinath as a half-day trip from central Kathmandu and walk on easily to Bodhnath. There are ticket booths near the southern entrance to the main Pashupatinath temple and next to the Guhyeshwari Temple, where foreigners must pay the entrance fee. Guides can be hired from the office of the Guide Association of Pashupatinath (1½hr tours Rs 500; 9am-5pm) close to the main temple.
Sights
PASHUPATINATH TEMPLE
Only Hindus are allowed to enter the compound of this famous temple (admission Rs 250, child under 10yr free; 24hr), but you can catch tantalising glimpses of what is going on inside from several points around the perimeter wall. From the main gate on the west side of the compound, you can view the mighty golden behind of an enormous brass statue of Nandi, Shiva’s bull. Inside the shrine, hidden from view, is a black, four-headed image of Pashupati, Lord of the Beasts.
TOP VALLEY HIKES
Get the blood moving with these excellent half-day hikes.
- Nagarkot to Nala and Banepa
- Dhulikhel to Panauti via Namobuddha
- Gokarna Mahadev Temple to Bodhnath, via Kopan Monastery
- Nagarkot to Sundarijal
- Nagarkot to Sankhu and Changu Narayan
The pagoda-style temple was constructed in 1696 but Pashupatinath has been a site of Hindu and Buddhist worship for far longer. If you climb between the terraces and ceremonial cisterns to the west of the temple, you can look down on the gilded rooftop, which cascades down in two wide tiers. There are more views from the top of the terraces on the east side of the Bagmati.
If you follow the road running south from the side entrance to the temple, you will pass the Panch Deval (Five Temples), a former temple complex that now acts as a social welfare centre for destitute old people. A donation box offers a way for visitors to directly contribute.
THE RIVERBANKS OF THE BAGMATI
Despite being clogged with garbage and black with pollution, the Bagmati is an extremely sacred river and Pashupatinath is the Nepali equivalent of Varanasi on the sacred River Ganges. The cremation ghats along the Bagmati are used for open-air cremations, but only members of the royal family can be cremated immediately in front of the Pashupatinath Temple. The funerals of 10 members of the Nepali royal family took place here after the massacre in 2001 (see boxed text). At the north end of the ghats, best viewed from across the river, are a series of yogis’ caves used as shelters in medieval times.
Funerals of ordinary Nepalis take place daily on the ghats to the south of the temple. Bodies are wrapped in shrouds and laid out along the riverbank, then cremated on a wooden pyre in a surprisingly businesslike way. It’s a powerful place to contemplate notions of death and mortality. Needless to say, this is a personal and traumatic time for relatives, and tourists intruding with cameras is just not appropriate.
Between the two groups of ghats on the west bank of the Bagmati is the small, 6th-century Bachhareshwari Temple, decorated with Tantric figures, skeletons and erotic scenes. It is said that human sacrifices were once made at this temple as part of the Maha Shivaratri Festival (opposite).
If you walk south along the west bank, you will pass a huge uprooted lingam and a small 7th-century standing Buddha image, next to the Raj Rajeshwari Temple, with its unusual rounded stucco outbuildings.
THE EAST BANK
Two footbridges cross the Bagmati in front of the Pashupatinath Temple, entering a garden of stone terraces covered in dozens of small Shiva shrines. These one-room temples are often used as lodgings by wandering sadhus and each contains a central Shiva lingam. Although the shrines are built in many styles, all share certain design features – note the mask of Bhairab, Shiva’s fearsome incarnation, on the south wall, and the Nandi statue and animal-head water spout to the north.
Two flights of steps lead up the hillside between the shrines, passing the elaborately frescoed Ram Temple, which is often thronged by visiting sadhus, especially during Maha Shivaratri Festival (see opposite). At the top, where the path enters the forest, a side track leads north along the top of the terraces to an excellent viewpoint over the Pashupatinath Temple. Look for the enormous golden trident on the northern side of the temple and the golden figure of the king kneeling in prayer under a protective hood of naga to the south.
On the ghats below this terrace, devotees ritually bathe in the dubious-looking waters of the Bagmati and holy men perform rituals on the stone steps. Look out for children retrieving coins from the murky river using a magnet on the end of a string.
GORAKHNATH & VISHWARUP TEMPLES
The steps continue up the hill from the terraces to a convenient cafe and another huge complex of Shiva shrines on the edge of the forest that is well worth exploring. There are more than 50 shrines here and the variety of architectural forms is quite stunning.
If you bear right at the top of the hill, you will reach the courtyard-style Vishwarup Temple, topped by a Mughal-style onion dome. You can peek through the gates but only Hindus may enter. Turning left at the top of the hill will take you to the towering red-and-white shikhara of the Gorakhnath Temple, dedicated to the 11th-century yogi who founded the Shaivite monastic tradition and invented Hatha yoga.
Past the Gorakhnath Temple, the path drops down through the forest, passing the Mrigasthali Deer Park, a fitting blending of nature and religion, as Shiva is said to have frolicked here once in the shape of a golden deer.
GUHYESHWARI TEMPLE
The path drops out of the forest to the side of the large, courtyard-style Guhyeshwari Temple, built by King Pratap Malla in 1653 and dedicated to Parvati (the wife of Shiva) in her terrible manifestation as Kali. Entry is banned to non-Hindus, but you can peek into the compound from the path to see the four huge gilded snakes that support the roof finial.
The riverbank in front of the temple is lined with Shiva shrines and octagonal plinths for ritual bathing.
The temple’s curious name comes from the Nepali words guhya (vagina) and ishwari (goddess) – literally, it’s the temple of the goddess’ vagina! According to legend, the father of Parvati insulted Shiva and the goddess become so incensed that she burst into flames, providing the inspiration for the practice of sati, where widows were burned alive on the funeral pyres of their husbands. The grieving Shiva wandered the earth with the disintegrating corpse of Parvati and her genitals fell at Guhyeshwari. However, Indian Hindus make the same claim for the Kamakhya Temple at Guwahati in Assam.
Festivals & Events
Pashupatinath is generally busiest (with genuine pilgrims rather than tourists) from 6am to 10am and again from 6pm to 7.30pm, especially on ekadashi, which falls 11 days after the full and new moon each month. As night falls, pilgrims release butter lamps on boats made of leaves onto the Bagmati as part of the arati (light) ceremony.
In the Nepali month of Falgun (in February or March), pilgrims throng to Pashupatinath from all over Nepal and India to celebrate Shiva’s birthday at the Maha Shivaratri Festival. It’s an incredible spectacle, and a chance to see members of some of the more austere Shaivite sects performing rituals through the night.
Another auspicious date on the calendar is Bala Chaturdashi in November/December, when pilgrims hold a lamplit vigil and bathe in the holy Bagmati the following morning.
Pilgrims then scatter sweets and seeds around the compound for their deceased relatives to enjoy in the afterlife.
Getting There & Away
The most convenient way to Pashupatinath is by taxi (Rs 150 to Rs 200 from Thamel) – taxis usually drop off by the police station at Gaushala, but you can ask to be dropped off closer to the temples.
If you are walking or cycling, head east from the Royal Palace through Naxal, meeting the Ring Rd near the Jayabageshwari Temple, with its fine painting of Bhairab. To reach the temple, cross the Ring Rd and follow the winding lanes lined with religious stalls towards the Bagmati.
If you want to walk on from Pashupatinath to Bodhnath, it’s a pleasant 20-minute walk through villages and farmland, offering a window onto ordinary life in the Kathmandu ’burbs. Take the footbridge across the river in front of the Guhyeshwari Temple and head north for five minutes, then turn right at the signposted junction, by a temple surrounding a large pipal tree. At the next junction follow the Buddha’s example and take the middle (straight) path, which eventually emerges on the main Bodhnath road, right across from the stupa.
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CHABAHIL
East of the centre, on the way to Bodhnath, the suburb of Chabahil (Map) has a number of historic temples and shrines. Right on the Ring Rd is the imposing Chabahil Stupa (free admission), the fourth largest stupa in the Kathmandu area after Bodhnath, Swayambhunath and the Kathesimbhu Stupa near Thahiti Chowk. According to legend, the stupa was constructed by Charumati, the daughter of Ashoka, but it has been rebuilt numerous times, most recently in 2002, when the tower cracked because of vibrations from passing traffic. The spire is covered by brass plates and the surrounding courtyard has some graceful chaityas from the Licchavi period.
If you take the lane just north of the stupa, and turn left, you will reach the Charamuti Vihar, a medieval Buddhist monastery that used to house the monks who tended the stupa. Continuing past this turning will take you to the revered Chandra Binayak Ganesh Temple, enshrining a tiny silver image of Ganesh. The courtyard is full of tika-powder-covered statues – note the Budhanilkantha-style statue of Narayan reclining on his serpent bed, next to a human figure made of beaten brass panels.
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BODHNATH (BOUDHA)
There is nowhere quite like Bodhnath. This enormous stupa pulses with life as thousands of pilgrims gather daily to make a ritual circumnavigation of the dome, beneath the watchful eyes of the Buddha, which gaze out from the gilded central tower. This is one of the few places in the world where Tibetan Buddhist culture is accessible and unfettered, and the lanes around the stupa are crammed with monasteries and workshops producing butter lamps, ceremonial horns, Tibetan drums, singing bowls, plumed hats for lamas and other essential paraphernalia for Buddhist life.
Historically, the stupa was an important staging post on the trade route between Lhasa and Kathmandu, and Tibetan traders would pray here for a safe journey before driving their yaks on to the high passes of the Himalaya. Today, most of the Tibetans living in the village of Boudha (pronounced boe-da) are refugees who fled China after 1959, but the stupa also attracts many Sherpas, descendants of Tibetan tribal people who migrated to Nepal in the 16th century. Many of the monasteries around the stupa have opened their doors to foreign students, so you’ll see plenty of Westerners in maroon robes as you stroll around the backstreets.
The best time to visit Bodhnath is late afternoon, when the group tours depart and local Buddhists stroll down to the stupa to light butter lamps, spin prayer wheels, chant mantras, shop for household goods, socialise and perform a ritual clockwise circuit of the monument. Try to visit on the evening of the full moon, when the plaza surrounding the stupa is lit up by thousands of butter lamps.
Information
There are numerous internet cafes and ISD phone offices around the stupa and on the lane leading north. Try Dharana Cyber (per hr Rs 30; 7am-9pm), on the west side of the stupa, or Dharma Cyber (per hr Rs 25; 9am-7pm), just north of the stupa.
The ticket office is at the main southern entrance to the stupa. Various travel agents along the main road here can arrange flights, long-distance bus tickets and other services, but be wary of ‘direct buses’ to India – see boxed text.
If you fancy trying out Tibetan traditional medicine – where diagnosis is based on the speed and regularity of the pulse and the condition of the tongue, and illnesses are treated with Himalayan herbs – visit the Kunphen Tibetan Medical Centre ( 4251920; 9am-noon & 2-5pm) near the Tsamchen Gompa.
Sights
THE BODHNATH STUPA
The first stupa (admission foreigner/SAARC Rs 100/20) at Bodhnath was built sometime after AD 600, when the Tibetan king, Songtsen Gampo, converted to Buddhism. According to legend, the king constructed the stupa as an act of penance after unwittingly killing his father. Unfortunately, the first stupa was wrecked by Mughal invaders in the 14th century, so the current stupa is a more recent construction.
In terms of grace and purity of line, no other stupa in Nepal comes close to Bodhnath. From its whitewashed dome to its gilded tower painted with the eyes of the Buddha, the monument is perfectly proportioned and every part of the stupa has a specific religious significance – see boxed text, below.
VISITING TIBETAN MONASTERIES
Most Tibetan Buddhist monasteries welcome visitors and entering these atmospheric buildings can be a powerful and evocative experience. During the morning and evening prayers, the lamas and novices gather to chant passages from the Sutras (Buddhist texts), normally accompanied by a cacophony of crashing cymbals, thumping drums and honking Tibetan horns. The ceremony is often followed by a meal of tsampa (roasted barley flour) and butter tea, and you may see monks making temporary sand mandalas (geometrical representations of the path to enlightenment) or butter sculptures, which are then destroyed as a reminder of the impermanence of human existence.
Gompas follow a remarkably consistent layout, linked to the complex symbology of Tibetan Buddhism. The main prayer hall is invariably decorated with intricate murals depicting Buddhist deities from the past, present and future, who also appear on dangling thangkas edged with brocade. The focal point of the monastery is the collection of statues depicting Buddhas and bodhisattvas, usually painted in vivid colours – pick up the booklet Short Description of Gods, Goddesses and Ritual Objects of Buddhism and Hinduism in Nepal (published by the Handicraft Association of Nepal and available in Nepali bookshops) for a guide to the myriad Buddhist deities.
Many gompas also have a library of cloth-wrapped Buddhist manuscripts set into alcoves around the altar, which is frequently covered in offerings, including butter lamps and seven bowls of water. The throne of the head lama (who may be living, or dead and pending the discovery of his reincarnation) is often surrounding by pictures of past abbots and the Dalai Lama, the spiritual leader of Tibetan Buddhism and the representation on earth of Avalokitesvara, the deity of compassion.
As you enter a monastery you will see murals of the four guardian protectors – fearsome-looking deities who scare away ignorance – and the Wheel of Life, a highly complex diagram representing the Buddha’s insights into the way humans are chained by desire to the endless cycle of life, death and rebirth.
For a detailed breakdown of the elements of the Wheel of Life, www.buddhanet.net/wheel1.htm.
The front of a monastery may also feature enormous mani dungkhor – giant prayer wheels stuffed with thousands of copies of the Buddhist mantra om mani padme hum (‘praise to the jewel in the lotus’).
This mantra also appears on the smaller prayer wheels around the outer wall and on the fluttering prayer flags outside. Each spin, or gust of wind, carries these prayers to heaven. On the monastery roof you may see a statue of two deer on either side of the Wheel of Law, symbolising the Buddha’s first sermon at the deer park of Sarnath.
Cultural Considerations
Visitors are welcome in most monasteries, but please stick to the following guidelines:
- Remove your shoes and hat before you enter a gompa.
- Ask before taking photos and avoid taking photos during a service.
- Do not smoke anywhere in the main compounds.
- Do not step over or sit on the monks’ cushions, even if no one is sitting on them.
- During ceremonies, enter quietly and stand by the wall near the main entrance; do not walk around while monks are engaged in rituals.
- Always walk around stupas and chörtens (Tibetan-style stupa) in a clockwise direction.
- It is appropriate to make an offering – a khata is traditional, but cash donations will help fund the monastery and its charitable works in the community.
Many ancient stupas were built to house holy relics and some claim that Bodhnath contains a piece of bone from the skeleton of Siddhartha Gautama, the historical Buddha. Around the base of the stupa are 108 small images of the Dhyani Buddha Amitabha (108 is an auspicious number in Tibetan culture) and a ring of prayer wheels, set in groups of four or five into 147 niches.
To reach the top of the plinth, look for the gateway at the north end of the stupa, beside a small shrine dedicated to Ajima, the goddess of smallpox. The plinth is open from 5am to 6pm (till 7pm in summer), offering a raised viewpoint over the tide of pilgrims surging around the stupa. Note the committed devotees prostrating themselves full-length on the ground in the courtyard on the east side of the stupa.
THE GOMPAS
Since the Chinese invasion of Tibet, a number of new monasteries have been constructed at Bodhnath by refugees. All welcome visitors but many close their doors in the middle of the day. See boxed text, for some guidelines on visiting gompas.
Facing the stupa from the west side of the square, Tsamchen Gompa contains some delicate mural work and a magnificent statue of Maitreya (Jampa in Tibetan), the Future Buddha, covered in embroidered robes. Note the murals of King Mahendra and Queen Ratna in the doorway and the massive mani dungkhor (prayer wheel shrine) to the left of the entrance.
Immediately north of the stupa is the newly constructed Guru Lhakhang Gompa, which offers perfect views over the stupa from its upper balcony. The prayer hall has some fine ceiling mandalas and huge statues of Guru Rinpoche, Sakyamuni and Avalokitesvara. In front is a huge bell inscribed with Tibetan mantras.
Take the alley running northeast from the stupa, past the small Gelugpa Samtenling Gompa, and turn right to reach the Sakya Tharig Gompa (www.sakyatharig.org.np). This sprawling complex includes a large Buddhist school and the prayer hall at the back contains a huge statue of Sakyamuni inlaid with turquoise, red coral, dzi beads (see boxed text) and other precious materials.
Continue east along this path to reach the Kargyud school Pal Dilyak Gompa, with another large monastic school and a huge prayer hall full of musical instruments that create a rousing soundtrack during afternoon prayers. Follow the same path past the Lotus Guest House to reach the Pal Nye Gompa, with around 80 young novices and the loudest gong and horn section in the area.
To the west and down the alley leading to the Dragon Guest House, the huge Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa (www.shechen.org) was established by the famous Nyingmapa lama Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche to replace the destroyed Shechen Gompa in eastern Tibet. Today, the monastery has a thriving community of over 300 monks and novices and the main prayer hall features fabulous murals by artists from Bhutan. The attached Tsering Art School produces Buddhist crafts that are sold in the monastery shop (Click here).
STUPA SYMBOLISM
There are many complicated rules governing the layout of Buddhist stupas. Each part of a stupa has a specific significance, creating a three-dimensional representation of important elements of Buddhist philosophy to remind devotees of the path towards enlightenment. Key features of stupa architecture include the following:
- Plinth The lowest level of the stupa is a square or terraced plinth, representing the earth. The four sides or four terraces represent the four states of mindfulness and the four immeasurables – love, compassion, joy and equanimity.
- Kumbha Above the plinth is a hemispherical dome, resembling an upturned pot of rice (kumbha literally means ‘pot’). The dome symbolises water and is freshly whitewashed each year and decorated with a pattern of yellow paint to represent lotus petals.
- Harmika Above the dome is a square tower, symbolising fire, usually painted on each side with the eyes of the Buddha.
- Spire Topping the harmika is a tapering spire, representing the air. The 13 levels of the tower represent the 13 stages that a human being must pass through to achieve nirvana.
- Umbrella At the very top of the stupa is a protective umbrella that symbolises the void beyond space.
REPOUSSÉ METALWORK
Many of the richly decorated objects used for religious rituals in Nepal make use of the ancient technique of repoussé – where a design is hammered into the metal from the back using hammers and punches. First the metal shape is set into a bed of jhau (a mixture of resin and brick dust) then the design is painstakingly applied and the resin is melted away, allowing finishing touches to be added from the front using engraving tools.
This style of metalwork has been produced since at least the second millen-nium BC and the technique is still practiced today in the alleyways around Bodhnath, particularly near the Shechen Gompa.
Further north, down a side alley, the handsome ‘white gompa’ of Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling features ornamental gardens and a richly decorated interior with some exquisite paintings and thangkas. The attached Rangjung Yeshe Institute (www.shedra.org) runs classes in Tibetan, Sanskrit, Nepali and Buddhist studies (Click here).
Festivals & Events
Bodhnath goes into spiritual overdrive every year in February or March for Losar, the Tibetan New Year. Long copper horns are blown, a portrait of the Dalai Lama is paraded around, thousands of pilgrims throng the stupa, and monks from the surrounding monasteries perform masked chaam dances.
Another good time to be here is Buddha Jayanti in April/May, which celebrates the birth of the Buddha. Thousands of butter lamps are lit by devotees and an image of the Buddha is paraded by elephant around the stupa.
Sleeping
The guest houses in the tangle of lanes north and east of the stupa offer an interesting and more peaceful alternative to basing yourself in Kathmandu.
Lotus Guest House ( 4472320; s/d Rs 300/450, without bathroom Rs 250/400, tr Rs 600, deluxe r Rs 700) This calm, contemplative guest house is close to Pal Dilyak Gompa. Rooms are spread over two floors around a marigold-fringed garden lawn and the bathrooms are so clean they sparkle.
Pema Guest House ( 4495662; [email protected]; r with/without bathroom from Rs 550/300, deluxe r with TV Rs 700) Behind the Sakya Tharig Gompa, this tidy house is set in a neat courtyard garden. The spacious rooms on the upper levels get lots of natural light and there are sitting terraces on each level where you can sit and ponder. Ground-floor rooms are darker and therefore cheaper.
Tharlam Guest House ( 4496878; [email protected]; s/d from Rs 350/500) Part of the Tharlam Gompa, this huge place looks a bit like a Spanish holiday villa. Rooms have rather bright carpets but are large and well appointed, and there are stupa views from the rooftop.
Dragon Guest House ( 4479562; [email protected]; d Rs 600, s/d without bathroom Rs 350/450) This friendly, family-run place is set in a peaceful location north of the Shechen Gompa, and staff keep the place looking spick and span. To get here, walk north through the gate beside the Shechen Guest House.
PRK Guest House (Pal Rabten Khansar; 4465055; www.sakyatharig.org.np; s/d/tw Rs 600/1000/800) This surprisingly stylish guest house is run by the Sakya Tharig Gompa next door, and its capacious, well-appointed rooms are very comfortable indeed. Out back is an ornamental garden with bench seats and a large stupa.
Shechen Guest House ( 4479009; www.shechenguesthouse.com.np; s/d/tr Rs 750/1030/1430) At the back of the Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa, this agreeable guest house caters to a mix of dharma students and ordinary travellers. Tibetan fabrics add a dash of colour to the uncluttered bedrooms, and you can rent a heater for Rs 150 per night. The attached Rabsel Garden Café cooks up some excellent vegetarian food. To get here, enter the monastery compound and turn left, then right beside a line of giant chörten (Tibetan-style stupa). Discounts of Rs 100 are available from May to August.
Valley Guest House ( 4471241; www.thevalleyguesthouse.com; s/d from Rs 1000/1500, ste Rs 2500, f Rs 2700) Owned by a Dutch-Nepali couple, this modern and tasteful place doubles as a family home. It’s popular with long-term dharma students and there are excellent rooftop views to the stupa. For a splurge, try the single air-conditioned suite.
Hotel Norbu Sangpo ( 4482500; www.hotelnorbusangpo.com; s/d from US$15/24, apt per month from US$350) Hidden away in the backstreets northeast of the stupa, this very private place has a cute, flowery garden and big rooms with all mod cons. There are balconies on every level and long-stay guests can rent apartments with kitchens (but no appliances) and living rooms.
Eating
Buddhist Bodhnath is nirvana for vegetarians and there are traveller-oriented restaurants around the stupa taking advantage of the views. For cheaper eats, head to the back-lanes radiating out from the stupa – any building with a curtain across an open door is a local cafe serving momos, thukpa (noodle soup) and other Tibetan staples. Unless otherwise stated, the following restaurants open from 8am to 9pm.
Double Dorjee Restaurant ( 4488947; dishes Rs 50-180) On the lane north of the stupa, this cosy Tibetan-run place targets backpackers and the dharma crowd with good prices, tasty Tibetan and Western food and soft sofas to relax in.
Garden Kitchen ( 4470760; mains Rs 50-150) A partly open-air place near the Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa, serving the usual globe-trotting menu in pleasing surroundings. Reasonable prices attract many long-term dharma students.
Saturday Café ( 2073157; mains Rs 60-200) Looking more like something you’d find in Portland, Oregon, this multistorey cafe serves excellent vegetarian meals, snacks and cakes. There’s a bookshop full of holistic titles and it even serves organic coffee. Come early for a seat with a view on the rooftop.
Café du Temple ( 2143256; www.cafedutemple.com.np; mains Rs 120-300) Run by the same people as the Café du Temple in Patan, this smart and efficient place targets tour groups with a solid menu of international food, plus grand views.
Stupa View Terrace & Restaurant ( 4480262; mains Rs 140-350; from 9am) The views are as good as they claim at this superior traveller-oriented place to the north of the stupa, with good vegetarian food and proper clay-oven pizzas.
Flavor’s Café ( 4498748; meals Rs 200-400) Formerly New Orleans, this upscale place has changed its name but not its menu, which covers everything from Nepali choyla (spiced meat curry) to Cajun chicken and steaks. There’s wireless internet, and tables are set in a calm, covered courtyard, or upstairs on the roof, for stupa views.
Shopping
The stupa is ringed by shops selling Tibetan crafts, thangkas, votive objects and Tibetan cowboy hats, but prices are high compared to other parts of Kathmandu so bargain hard. For tea bowls, butter lamps, prayer flags and other essential items for the Tibetan home, try the shops on the alleyway leading north from the stupa.
Tsering Art School
Shop (Shechen Tennyi Dargyeling Gompa; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) The shop at Shechen Gompa has an on-site tailor and a workshop that produces thangkas, incense and sculptures. The shop also sells Buddhist reference books and CDs.
Getting There & Away
The easiest way to reach Bodhnath is by taxi (Rs 200 to Rs 250 one way), but you can also come by cycle (watch the traffic), by bus from Kathmandu’s Ratna Park bus station (Rs 15, 30 minutes) or by tempo from Kantipath in Kathmandu (Rs 15, routes 2 and 28).
There’s also an interesting short walk between Bodhnath and Pashupatinath (Click here), or you could combine Bodhnath with a visit to Gokarna Mahadev Temple and Kopan Monastery (see boxed text).
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AROUND BODHNATH
Kopan Monastery
On a hilltop north of Bodhnath, Kopan Monastery ( 4821268; www.kopan-monastery.com) was founded by Lama Thubten Yeshe, who died in 1984, leading to a worldwide search for his reincarnation. A young Spanish boy, Osel Torres, was declared to be the reincarnated lama, providing the inspiration for Bernardo Bertolucci’s film Little Buddha. Lama Tenzin Osel Rinpoche no longer resides at Kopan, but visitors are welcome to explore the monastery and many people come here to study Buddhist psychology and philosophy (Click here for more details).
You can visit Kopan on the pleasant walk between Bodhnath and the Gokarna Mahadev Temple (see boxed text).
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THE NORTHWESTERN VALLEY
There are several interesting detours to the north and west of the capital, which can easily be visited by bus, tempo, taxi, rented bicycle or motorcycle, or even on foot.
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ICHANGU NARAYAN
About 3km northwest of Swayambhunath, Ichangu Narayan (admission free; dawn-dusk) is one of several important temples dedicated to Vishnu in his incarnation as Narayan, the ‘eternal man’. Built in the two-tiered pagoda style, the temple was founded in around 1200 and its courtyard is dotted with ancient Garuda statues and other Vaishnavite symbols.
The walk here starts opposite the Buddha Amideva Park on the Ring Rd and climbs steeply through small villages to reach the temple compound. On the way you’ll pass a line of handsome lotus-bud-style Shiva shrines.
Getting here from Kathmandu by bike is a long hard slog, but it’s an easy freewheel on the way back down.
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BALAJU
You will have to use your imagination to envision the former glory of the 18th-century gardens at Balaju, now known as Mahendra Park (admission Rs 5; 7am-7pm). Although the gardens are faded and untidy, many local Hindus swing by to pay their respects at the cluster of shrines in the northeast corner of the park.
In the centre of the compound is a sunken tank containing a handsome floating Vishnu image that pays tribute to the older and more famous image at Budhanilkantha. Nearby is the 19th-century, pagoda-style Shitala Mai Temple, fronted by some ancient statues of Ganesh, Buddha and other deities. A line of 22 painted waterspouts from which the park takes its name, Bais Dhara, is at the back of the park.
Getting There & Away
The village is 3km north of Thamel, just beyond the Ring Rd. Tempos and minibuses (No 1, Rs 12) go to Balaju from Lekhnath Marg; a taxi from Thamel costs around Rs 150.
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NAGARJUN FOREST RESERVE
If you continue uphill from Balaju on the road towards Trisuli Bazaar, you’ll reach the Nagarjun Forest Reserve (admission per person Rs 10, per bicycle/motorcycle/car Rs 10/30/100; entry 7am-2pm, visitors must exit by 5pm), also known as the Rani Ban (Queen’s Forest). This protected forest is one of the last undamaged areas of woodland in the valley, providing a home for pheasants, deer and monkeys. It’s a popular picnic spot, but female visitors are banned from walking here alone after two foreign tourists were murdered in the reserve in 2005.
The 2095m summit of the hill – accessible by the winding unpaved road or a two-hour hike on the footpath leading directly up the hill – is a popular Buddhist pilgrimage site and there’s a small shrine to Padmasambhava. The viewing tower offers one of the valley’s widest mountain panoramas, stretching all the way from the Annapurnas to Langtang Lirung (a plaque identifies the peaks).
It’s a peaceful spot but its proximity to the capital means that safety has to be a consideration. Don’t trek here alone and be sure to register at the main gate and sign out afterwards.
Getting There & Away
The main entrance to the reserve is at Phulbari, about 2km north of Balaju. Depending on the current whim of the authorities, it may be possible to exit at the Mudkhu Bhanjyang gate, 3km northwest of Phulbari, but check this when you register.
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BUDHANILKANTHA
The Kathmandu Valley is awash with ancient temples and sacred sites, but Budhanilkantha is a little bit special. For one thing, it lies off the main traveller circuit, so most visitors are local devotees. This gives Budhanilkantha a uniquely mystical air – butter lamps flicker in the breeze, incense curls through the air, and devotees toss around tika powder like confetti.
The focal point of the devotions at Budhanilkantha is a vast reclining statue (admission free; dawn to dusk) of Vishnu as Narayan, the creator of all life, who floats on the cosmic sea. From his navel grew a lotus and from the lotus came Brahma, who in turn created the world. The 5m-long Licchavi-style image was created in the 7th or 8th century from one monolithic piece of black stone and hauled here from outside the valley by devotees.
It’s one of the most impressive pieces of sculpture in Nepal, and that’s saying something!
Only Hindus can approach the statue to leave offerings of fruit and flower garlands, but visitors can view the statue through the fence that surrounds the sacred tank. Narayan slumbers peacefully on the knotted coils of Ananta (or Shesha), the 11-headed snake god who symbolises eternity. In each hand, Narayan holds one of the four symbols of Vishnu: a chakra disc (representing the mind), a conch shell (the four elements), a mace (primeval knowledge), and a lotus seed (the moving universe).
Vaishnavism (the worship of Vishnu) was the main sect of Hinduism in Nepal until the early Malla period, when Shiva became the most popular deity. The Malla king Jayasthithi is credited with reviving the Vishnu cult by claiming to be the latest incarnation of this oft-incarnated god. Every subsequent king of Nepal has made the same claim, and because of this they are forbidden, on pain of death, from seeing the image at Budhanilkantha.
Vishnu is supposed to sleep through the four monsoon months and a great festival takes place at Budhanilkantha for Haribodhini Ekadashi – the 11th day of the Hindu month of Kartik (October–November) – when Vishnu is said to awaken from his annual slumber (Click here).
Sleeping & Eating
There are no budget sleeping options in the area. The road to the sacred pavilion is lined with bhojanalayas serving sel roti (rice-flour donuts), channa puri (fried bread with chickpeas), pakora (battered vegetables) and outsized pappadums.
Park Village Hotel ( 4375280; www.ktmgh.com; s/d from US$60/70, cottages from US$60) Part of the Kathmandu Guest House group, this delightful hotel feels like a country retreat, despite being smack in the middle of Budhanilkantha. The tidy rooms and self-contained, comfortable cottages are surrounded by leafy gardens full of meditation spaces and statuary, and there’s a lovely pool and spa. The hotel also offers various spa treatments and activities, including bird-spotting tours to Shivapuri National Park. A free daily shuttle bus runs to and from the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel.
Shivapuri Heights ( 4372518, 9841371927;
www.shivapuricottage.com; two-/three-bedroom cottage US$200/300, r US$120-150) Perched on the hillside above Budhanilkantha, Shivapuri Heights offers a peaceful, private bolthole away from the chaos of Kathmandu. There are two cottages for hire – one with two bedrooms, one with three – both decked out with tasteful furniture and modern conveniences. You can rent the whole cottage or just a room; either way, all meals are included and staff are on hand to lead you on guided forest walks. Staff will arrange transport when you make a booking (essential).
Getting There & Away
No 5 minibuses run from the northern end of Kantipath to the main junction in Budhanilkantha (Rs 15, 35 minutes). There are also tempos (from Sundhara) and buses (from the Kathmandu Ratna Park bus station). The shrine is about 100m uphill from the junction. From Thamel, a taxi costs around Rs 500 one way.
By bicycle it’s a gradual, uphill haul of 15km – you could pause to rest at the Dhum Varahi shrine (Click here).
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SHIVAPURI NATIONAL PARK
The northern part of the Kathmandu Valley rises to the sprawling forests of Shivapuri National Park ( 4370355; www.shivapuri.com.np/nationalpark.php; admission foreigner/SAARC Rs 250/25, motorbike Rs 15, car Rs 75), upgraded to national park status in 2002 to protect the valley’s main water source, as well 177 species of birds and numerous rare orchids. This is one of the last areas of woodland left in the valley, and the forest is alive with monkeys, and maybe even leopards and bears.
In the past the park was mainly visited by trekkers en route to Helambu (Click here), but today the reserve is a popular destination for birdwatching tours from Kathmandu. Several good trekking and mountain-bike routes criss-cross the park, including the excellent Scar Rd cycle path – Click here.
You can combine a nature-spotting tour with a trip to the Tibetan nunnery of Nagi Gompa, about 3km uphill from the main gate above Budhanilkantha. Around 100 nuns are resident and there are soaring valley views – you can walk here in 1½ hours or drive here in 20 minutes by motorcycle or hired 4WD. Bodhnath’s Ka-Nying Sheldrup Ling Gompa holds retreats here for foreign students every November.
From the gompa it’s possible to climb steeply for about three hours to reach Shivapuri Peak (2725m), via Baghdwar (where the source of the holy Bagmati River pours out of two stone tiger mouths), returning to the park entrance via the Pani Muhan water tank, for a very long day of around seven hours.
This is a serious hike that you shouldn’t do alone. Take a map, plenty of water and preferably a guide.
There are several easier walks from Nagi Gompa. Consider the relaxing downhill stroll to Budhanilkantha, or continue south along the ridgeline for three hours to reach Kopan Monastery and Bodhnath. Another good option on foot or by mountain bike is to follow the dirt track east to Mulkarkha and then descend to Sundarijal – a mostly level 11km trip.
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PATAN
01 / pop 190,000
Once a fiercely independent city-state, Patan (pah-tan) is now almost a suburb of Kathmandu, separated only by the murky Bagmati River. Many locals still call the city by its original Sanskrit name, Lalitpur (City of Beauty) or by its Newari name, Yala. Almost everyone who comes to Kathmandu also visits Patan’s spectacular Durbar Sq – arguably the finest collection of temples and palaces in the whole of Nepal.
Another good reason to come here is to take advantage of the shops and restaurants set up to cater to the aid workers and diplomats who live in the surrounding suburbs. Then there are Patan’s fair-trade shops, selling superior handicrafts at fair prices and channelling tourist dollars to some of the most needy people in Nepal.
Most people visit Patan on day trips from Kathmandu and, as a result, the accommodation offerings are rather limited. On the flip side, Patan becomes a different place once the crowds of day-trippers retreat across the Bagmati. If you stay here, you’ll be able to explore the myriad toles and bahals at your leisure.
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HISTORY
Patan has a long Buddhist history, which has even had an influence on the town’s Hindu temples. The four corners of the city are marked by stupas said to have been erected by the great Buddhist emperor Ashoka in around 250 BC.
The town was ruled by local noblemen until King Shiva Malla of Kathmandu conquered the city in 1597, temporarily unifying the valley. Patan’s major building boom took place under the Mallas in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries.
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ORIENTATION
Durbar Sq forms the heart of Patan. From the square, four public thoroughfares will lead you north, south, east and west to the four Ashoka stupas (see boxed text Ashoka Stupas, Click here). The main bus stand is south of Durbar Sq at Lagankhel, however, buses from Kathmandu run to Patan Dhoka (City Gate), which is a short walk northwest of Durbar Sq.
Most road traffic bypasses the centre. The main road from Kathmandu crosses the Bagmati River and passes west of the old town through the districts of Kopundol, Pulchowk and Jawalakhel, the centre for Patan’s Tibetan refugee community. South of Jawalakhel is the Kathmandu Ring Rd.
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INFORMATION
There are banks with ATMs at Mangal Bazar, at the south end of Durbar Sq, and at Pulchowk and Jawalakhel. Patan Hospital (Map; 5522295; www.patanhospital.org.np), in the Lagankhel district, is the best in the Kathmandu Valley.
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SIGHTS
Most of the famous sights are centred on Durbar Sq. Don’t miss the walking tour of the courtyards to the north (see boxed text).
Patan Durbar Square
As in Kathmandu, the ancient Royal Palace of Patan faces on to a magnificent Durbar Square (Royal Square; Map; admission foreigner/SAARC Rs 200/25; ticket office 7am-7pm). This concentrated mass of temples is perhaps the most visually stunning display of Newari architecture to be seen in Nepal. Temple construction in the square went into overdrive during the Malla period (14th to 18th centuries), particularly during the reign of King Siddhinarsingh Malla (1619–60).
The entry fee is payable at the southern end of Durbar Sq – for repeated visits ensure that your visa validity date is written on the back of your ticket.
BHIMSEN TEMPLE
At the northern end of Durbar Sq, the Bhimsen Temple (Map) is dedicated to the god of trade and business, which may explain its prosperous appearance. One of the five Pandavas from the Mahabharata, Bhimsen is credited with superhuman strength – he is often depicted as a red muscleman, lifting a horse or crushing an elephant under his knee.
The three-storey pagoda has an unusual rectangular plan which marks it out from other temples in Patan.
The current temple was completely built in 1682 after a fire and later restored after the 1934 earthquake, and again in 1967. Non-Hindus can enter and climb to the upper level (the inner sanctum is usually upstairs in Bhimsen temples) to view the wild-eyed statue of Bhimsen.
MANGA HITI
Immediately across from Bhimsen Temple is the sunken Manga Hiti (Map), one of the water conduits with which Patan is liberally endowed.
The tank contains a cruciform-shaped pool and three wonderfully carved dhara in the shape of makara. Overlooking the tank are two wooden pavilions known as the Mani Mandap, which were built in 1700 for use in the elaborate ceremonies at royal coronations – one of the shelters features a serpent-backed throne.
VISHWANATH TEMPLE
South of the Bhimsen Temple stands the Vishwanath Temple (Map), sacred to Shiva. This elaborately decorated two-tiered pagoda was built in 1627 and it features some particularly ornate woodcarving, particularly on the friezes above the colonnade. Also noteworthy are the fine stone carvings of Ganesh set into the brick walls. On the west side is a statue of Shiva’s loyal mount, Nandi the bull, while the east side features two stone elephants with mahouts, one crushing a man beneath its foot. When the doors are open, you can view the enormous lingam inside.
KRISHNA MANDIR
Continuing into the square, you can’t miss the splendid Krishna Mandir (Map) built by King Siddhinarsingh Malla in 1637. Constructed from carved stone – in place of the usual brick and timber – this fabulous architectural confection shows the clear influence of Indian temple design. The temple is one of the most distinctive monuments in the valley and it is often depicted on the ornate brass butter lamps hung in Nepali homes.
WALKING TOUR
Duration 1¾ hours
Start Patan Dhoka
Finish Durbar Sq
This route gives a great insight into the communal lifestyle and traditional layout of Newari villages, with their bahal, hiti and tun (wells). The walk starts at Patan Dhoka, ends at Durbar Sq and takes under two hours (Map).
Southeast Patan
From Patan Dhoka, stroll southeast to a handsome Ganesh shrine (A), then turn right into Sulima Square (B), a crumbling brick-lined square with a 17th-century Mahadev (Shiva) shrine. On the east side of the square is the derelict house of a famous 16th-century Tantric master. Continue south to the Pim Bahal Pokhari (C) pond and go round it anticlockwise, past the three-tiered Chandeswari Temple (D) built in 1663. In front is a bell supported by stone columns on the backs of turtles. Nearby is a 600-year-old whitewashed stupa that was damaged by Muslim invaders in the 14th century.
At the road junction, walk northeast past fine wooden windows to a large square at Nakabhil. On the south side is the courtyard-style Lokakirti Mahavihar (E), a former Buddhist monastery now used to store parts of the Rato Machhendranath (Click here). Masked dances are performed on the dabali (platform) in front of the monastery for festivals. An alley leads north off the square, signposted ‘Bhaskar Varna Mahavihar’, to the Nyakhuchowk Bahal (F). The courtyard is full of ancient chaitya and in the centre is a white stupa and a gaudy 4m statue of Sakyamuni.
Head past a row of stupas to the eastern wall and go through the covered entrance, across an alley, into another chaitya-filled courtyard, the Naga Bahal (G). Walk past the statue of a golden bull to a painting of a naga on the wall, repainted every five years during the Samyak festival.
Go through the eastern passageway to a further courtyard with the red-walled Harayana Library in one corner. Follow a diagonal path past the carved wooden frontage of an ancient monastery then go east beneath a wooden torana to reach the Golden Temple (H; Click here).
After visiting the temple, exit east onto the main street, then turn left. You’ll soon see a sign for the courtyard-style Manjushri Temple (I). From here continue north past a group of ancient megaliths (J), possibly the oldest objects of worship in the Kathmandu Valley, and continue to the Kumbeshwar Temple (K; Click here).
From this temple, head east and turn south back to Durbar Sq. This road is lined with shrines to different incarnations of Vishnu, including a north Indian–style Krishna Temple and the two-tiered Uma Maheshwar Temple (L; Click here). Further south, at Swotha Tole, are the pagoda-style Rada Krishna Temple (M), the Garuda-fronted Narayan Temple (N) and another Indian-influenced Krishna Temple (O). A few more steps will take you to Durbar Sq.
Southwest Patan
There are more interesting temples and bahal in the southwest of Patan, which you can visit on the following walking tour (40 minutes) starting and finishing at Durbar Sq. This tour is marked on the Patan map, Click here.
Start by walking south from Durbar Sq then take the lane leading west near the Bishwakarma Temple (AA). At the first junction, Ekhalakhu, there are several Nepali-style Vishnu shrines (AB), one with a Garuda statue. Continue past a Ganesh shrine and Shiva shrine to Jenbahal and a brightly painted, three-tiered Ganesh Temple (AC). From here, stroll west past a stone shikhara-style Narayan Temple (AD). At Purnachandi, detour south to see a substantial, three-tiered Kali Temple (AE) in front of a large tank, then walk north past another small Vaishnavite temple (AF) to the junction at Gabahal.
Turn right and look for a small gateway on the left leading to Bubahal (AG), a courtyard full of Buddhist statues and chaityas in front of the restored Yasodhara Mahavihar temple. Continue east along the main road then duck right into Haka Bahal (AH), the courtyard of the Ratnakar Mahavihar, linked to Patan’s Kumari (living goddess) cult. Continue east through Mahapal to finish at the south end of Durbar Sq.
The temple consists of three tiers, fronted by columns and supporting a north Indian style–shikhara. Non-Hindus cannot enter to view the statue of Vishnu as Krishna, the goatherd, but you’ll often hear temple musicians playing upstairs. Vishnu’s mount, the man-bird Garuda, kneels with folded arms on top of a column facing the temple. The delicate stone carvings along the beam on the 1st-floor recount events from the Mahabharata, while the beam on the 2nd floor features scenes from the Ramayana.
A major festival, Krishna Jayanta, also known as Krishnasthami, is held here in the Nepali month of Bhadra (August–September) for Krishna’s birthday.
JAGANNARAYAN TEMPLE
Fronted by a pair of barrel-chested lions, the two-storey Jagannarayan (or Char Narayan) Temple (Map) is dedicated to Vishnu as Narayan, the creator of the universe. Dating from 1565, it is said to be the oldest temple in the square, and its roof struts are alive with carvings of couples engaged in saucy goings-on.
KING YOGANARENDRA MALLA’S STATUE
South of the Jagannarayan Temple is a tall column (Map) topped by a striking brass statue of King Yoganarendra Malla (1684–1705) and his queens, installed in 1700. Above the king’s head is a cobra, and above the cobra is a small brass bird – legend has it that as long as the bird remains the king may still return to his palace. Accordingly, the door and window of the palace are always kept open and a hookah is kept ready should the king ever decide to come back. A rider to the legend adds that when the bird flies off, the elephants in front of the Vishwanath Temple will stroll over to Manga Hiti for a drink!
Behind the statue of the king are three smaller Vishnu temples, including a brick-and-plaster shikhara temple, built in 1590 to enshrine an image of Narsingha, Vishnu’s man-lion incarnation.
HARI SHANKAR TEMPLE
The three-storey temple to Hari Shankar (Map), a curious hybrid deity that has half the attributes of Vishnu and half the attributes of Shiva, has roof struts carved with scenes of the tortures of the damned. This is a strange contrast to the erotic scenes more commonly seen on temple roofs. It was built in 1704–05 by the daughter of King Yoganarendra Malla.
TALEJU BELL
South of the Hari Shankar Temple is a huge, ancient bell (Map), hanging between two stout pillars, erected by King Vishnu Malla in 1736. Petitioners could ring the bell to alert the king to their grievances. The huge brass chains attached to the bell look almost as solid as the stone columns that support them. Behind the bell pavilion is a fountain crossed by an ornamental bridge.
KRISHNA TEMPLE
This attractive, octagonal stone temple (Map) completes the ‘front line’ of temples in the square. Also known as the Chyasim Deval, it has strong architectural similarities to the Krishna Temple at the north end of the square. The tiered structure was built in 1723 in a style clearly influenced by the stone temples of northern India.
Behind the Krishna Temple stands the squat and rather plain Bhai Dega Temple, dedicated to Shiva. Nearby is a stone shikhara-style temple dedicated to Uma Maheshwar, in a similar style to the two Krishna temples. Note the ornate carvings in the faux windows on the upper level.
ROYAL PALACE
Forming the whole eastern side of the Durbar Sq, the Royal Palace of Patan (Map) was originally built in the 14th century, but expanded massively during the 17th and 18th centuries by Siddhinarsingh Malla, Srinivasa Malla and Vishnu Malla. The Patan palace predates the palaces in Kathmandu and Bhaktapur and it was severely damaged during the conquest of the valley by Prithvi Narayan Shah in 1768. More restoration was done after the great earthquake of 1934, but the palace remains one of the architectural highlights of Nepal.
ASHOKA STUPAS
Legend claims that the four stupas marking the boundaries of Patan were built when the great Buddhist emperor Ashoka visited the valley 2500 years ago. The Northern Stupa is just beyond the Kumbeshwar Temple, on the way to the Sankhamul ghats; the Southern Stupa is just south of the Lagankhel bus stop; the Western Stupa is beside the main road from Kathmandu at Pulchowk; and the tiny Eastern Stupa is well to the east of centre, across Kathmandu’s Ring Rd. Buddhist and Tibetan pilgrims walk around all four stupas in a single day during the auspicious full moon of August.
Behind the extravagant facade, with its overhanging eaves, carved windows and delicate wooden screens, are a series of connecting courtyards and three temples dedicated to the valley’s main deity, the goddess Taleju. The Bhairab gateway leading to the central courtyard – known as Mul Chowk – is flanked by two stone lions and colourful murals of Shiva in his wrathful incarnation as Bhairab. Strings of buffalo guts are hung above the door in his honour.
The northern courtyard is reached through the Golden Gate (Map), or Sun Dhoka. Installed in 1734, this finely engraved and gilded gateway is topped by a golden torana showing Shiva, Parvati, Ganesh and Kumar (an incarnation of Skanda, the God of War). Directly above the gateway is a window made from gold foil wrapped around a timber frame, where the king once made public appearances. The gateway now forms the entrance to the Patan Museum.
PATAN MUSEUM
Formerly the residence of the Malla kings, the section of the palace surrounding Keshav Narayan Chowk now houses one of the finest collections of religious art in Asia. Partly funded by the Austrian government, the Patan Museum (Map; 5521492; www.patanmuseum.gov.np; admission foreigner/SAARC Rs 250/75; 10.30am-4.30pm, last admission 4pm) is a national treasure, and a visit should form part of any trip to Patan’s Durbar Sq.
The collection is displayed in a series of brick and timber rooms, linked by steep and narrow stairways. There are informative labels on each of the hundreds of statues, carvings and votive objects, allowing you to put a name to many of the deities depicted at temples around the valley.
There are also some interesting displays on the techniques used to create these wonderful objects, including the art of repoussé (see boxed text) and the ‘lost-wax’ method of casting. Gallery H at the back of the complex, near the cafe, houses some fascinating photos of Patan at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries.
You need at least an hour, and preferably two, to do this place justice, and it’s worth taking a break at the excellent Museum Café (Click here) before diving in for another round. The museum also has a shop selling reproductions of some of the works displayed inside. For a sneak preview of the museum’s highlights and the story of its renovation go to www.asianart.com/patan-museum.
MUL CHOWK
South of the Patan Museum, a gateway opens onto the stately Mul Chowk (Map), the largest and oldest of the palace’s three main chowks (squares). The original buildings were destroyed by fire in 1662 but rebuilt just three years later by Srinivasa Malla. If the doors happen to be open when you visit, you can enter the square to view the exquisitely carved windows and balconies and the three temples dedicated to Taleju, the personal deity of the Malla kings.
As you enter through the Bhairab gate (see the Royal Palace, Click here), the first thing you will notice is the small, gilded Bidya Temple in the middle of the square, beside a wooden post used to secure animals for sacrifices. To the south is the Taleju Bhawani Temple, flanked by statues of the river goddesses Ganga, on a tortoise, and Jamuna, on a makara.
At the northeastern corner of the square is the tall Degutalle Temple, topped by an octagonal triple-roofed tower. The larger, triple-roofed Taleju Temple is directly north, looking out over Durbar Sq. This temple has been destroyed almost as many times as it has been rebuilt. The latest incarnation was reconstructed out of the wreckage of the 1934 earthquake. All three temples are closed to non-Hindus and actually rarely open to anyone.
SUNDARI CHOWK
South of Mul Chowk is the smaller Sundari Chowk (Map), arranged around a superbly carved sunken water tank known as the Tusha Hiti. Unfortunately the courtyard is closed to the public, but swing by the gateway to view the gilded metal window over the entrance, which is flanked by windows of carved ivory. Nearby are three magnificent statues of Hanuman (barely recognisable beneath layers of orange paint), Ganesh and Vishnu as Narsingha, the man-lion.
North of Durbar Square
The following sights are north of Durbar Sq. They can be visited as part of the Patan Walking Tour (see boxed text).
GOLDEN TEMPLE (KWA BAHAL)
Also known as the Hiranya Varna Mahavihara, this unique Buddhist monastery (Map; admission Rs 50; dawn-dusk) is just north of Durbar Sq. The monastery was allegedly founded in the 12th century, and it has existed in its current location since 1409. Entry is via a narrow stone doorway to the east or a wooden doorway to the west, inside one of the interlinked bahal on the north side of Nakabhil.
Entering from the east, note the gaudy painted lions and the signature of Krishnabir, the master stonemason who sculpted the fine doorway with its frieze of Buddhist deities. This second doorway leads to the main courtyard in front of the Golden Temple, so named because of the gilded metal plates that cover most of its frontage. Shoes and other leather articles must be removed if you enter the inner courtyard. Look for the tortoises pottering around the compound – these are the temple guardians. The main priest of the temple is a young boy under the age of twelve, who serves for 30 days before handing the job over to another young boy.
KARTIK DANCES
Every year in Kartik (October–November), Patan’s Durbar Sq fills with music and dancers for a festival that can trace its origins back to the time of King Siddhinarsingh Malla in the early 17th century. As the story goes, the king was frustrated at the unhappiness of his citizens compared to the inhabitants of neighbouring Kantipur (Kathmandu) and Bhadgaon (Bhaktapur), so he came up with a plan for a human sacrifice. Dancers filled Durbar Sq for eight days and on the last day, a dancer dressed as the demon Hiranyakashipu was ritually killed by a dancer dressed as Narsingha. History failed to record whether the ceremony improved happiness in the greater Patan area, but the tradition endured in a less violent form through the annual Kartik Dance, which is still performed by dancers wearing masks to represent Narsingha and Hiranyakashipu.
The temple itself is a magnificent example of courtyard temple architecture. Two elephant statues guard the doorway and the facade is covered by a host of gleaming Buddhist figures. Inside the main shrine is a beautiful statue of Sakyamuni (no photos allowed). To the left of the courtyard is a statue of Green Tara and to the right is a statue of the Bodhisattva Vajrasattva wearing an impressive silver-and-gold cape. Nearby is a mural depicting the parable of the ‘Four Harmonious Friends’ – the elephant, monkey, rabbit and bird who worked together to reach the highest fruit on the tree.
Facing the main temple is a smaller shrine containing a ‘self-arisen’ (swayambhu) chaitya. The four corners of the courtyard have statues of four Lokeshvaras (incarnations of Avalokitesvara) and four monkeys, which hold out jackfruits as an offering. A stairway leads to an upper-floor chapel dedicated to the Amitabh Buddha, lined with Tibetan-style frescoes. Finally, as you leave the temple, look up to see an embossed Kalachakra mandala mounted on the ceiling.
It’s worth ducking south towards Durbar Sq to see the small, two-tiered Uma Maheshwar Temple (Map) and the handsome stone Gauri Shankar Temple (Map), in the Indian shikhara style. Across the road, the Buddhist Maru Mandapa Mahavihar (Map) is set in a small courtyard.
KUMBESHWAR TEMPLE
Due north of Durbar Sq is the eye-catching Kumbeshwar Temple (Map), one of the valley’s three five-storey temples. This tall, thin mandir features some particularly artistic woodcarving, and it seems to defy gravity as it towers above the surrounding houses. A large Nandi statue indicates that the shrine is sacred to Shiva.
The temple platform has two ponds whose water is said to come straight from the holy lake at Gosainkund, a long trek north of the valley (Click here for more information about the trek). Bathing in the tank at Kumbeshwar Temple is said to be as meritorious as making the arduous walk to Gosainkund.
The surrounding square is dotted with temples sacred to Bhairab and Baglamukhi (Parvati). Local women gather at the tank known as Konti Hiti to socialise, wash clothes and fill up their water jugs. To the north of the temple is the Kumbeshwar Technical School.
From here you can detour north to see the Northern Stupa, one of four marker shrines showing the old city limits of Patan.
UMA MAHESHWAR TEMPLE
En route from Kumbeshwar Temple to Durbar Sq, the small, inconspicuous double-roofed Uma Maheshwar Temple (Map) is on the eastern side of the road. Peer inside the temple to see a very beautiful black-stone relief of Shiva and Parvati in the pose known as Uma Maheshwar – the god sitting cross-legged with his shakti leaning against him rather seductively. There are several other temples dedicated to Vishnu along this road.
South of Durbar Square
The following sights are south of Durbar Sq in the backstreets south of Mangal Bazar, the main local shopping street. If you continue south, you will reach the busy marketplace surrounding the Lagankhel bus stand.
BISHWAKARMA TEMPLE
Walk south from Durbar Sq past brassware shops and workshops and keep an eye out for a small lane leading off to the right (west). A short distance down this lane is the Bishwakarma Temple (Map), with its entire facade covered in sheets of embossed copper. The temple is dedicated to the patron deity of carpenters and craftspeople, which is appropriate, as you can hear many of them banging hammers in the surrounding workshops.
JANAI PURNIMA AT KUMBESHWAR
Thousands of pilgrims visit the Kumbeshwar Temple during the Janai Purnima Festival in July or August, when members of the Brahmin and Chhetri castes replace the sacred thread they wear looped over their left shoulder. A silver-and-gold lingam is set up in the tank and devotees take a ritual bath in the cloudy waters while jhankri in colourful headdresses and skirts dance around the temple beating drums. Needless to say, it’s quite a spectacle.
RATO MACHHENDRANATH FESTIVAL
The image in the Rato Machhendranath Temple may look like a crudely carved piece of painted wood, but each year it forms the centrepiece for the Rato Machhendranath Festival in the Nepali month of Baisakh (April–May). Immediately prior to the festival, the scattered timbers of Rato Machhendranath’s chariot are gathered and assembled and the statue is installed on his awesome coach on the fourth day of the light fortnight of Baisakh. It takes a full month to move the chariot across Patan to Jawalakhel, where the chariot is finally dismantled. Machhendranath is considered to have powers over rain and, since the monsoon is approaching at this time, this festival is essentially a plea for generous rains.
The towering main chariot is accompanied for much of its journey by a smaller chariot, which contains the image of Rato Machhendranath’s companion, Jatadhari Lokesvara, which normally resides in the nearby Minnath Temple. The highlight of the festival is the Bhoto Jatra, or showing of the sacred vest. According to the legend, the jewelled vest was given to the god for safe keeping after a dispute between two potential owners. Every year, the vest is displayed three times in order to give the owner the chance to claim it – although this does not actually happen. The king of Nepal attends this ceremony, which is also a national holiday.
From Jawalakhel, Rato Machhendranath is conveyed on a khat (palanquin) to his second home in the village of Bungamati, 6km to the south, where he spends the next six months of the year, before returning to Patan. The main chariot is so large and the route is so long that the Nepali army is often called in to help transport it.
I BAHA BAHI
Further south, another tiny doorway leads to the quiet bahal containing the I Baha Bahi (Map). This handsome Buddhist monastery was founded in 1427 and the structure was restored in the 1990s by a team of archaeologists from Japan.
MINNATH TEMPLE
Further south, another gateway leads to a courtyard strewn with wooden beams. In the centre is the brightly painted, two-tiered Minnath Temple (Map), dedicated to the Bodhisattva Jatadhari Lokesvara, who is considered to be the little brother of Rato Machhendranath.
The temple was founded in the Licchavi period (3rd to 9th centuries) but the multi-armed goddesses on the roof struts were added much later. Note the metal pots and pans nailed to the temple rafters by devotees. The timbers lying around the courtyard are assembled into a chariot every year to haul the statue of Minnath around town as part of the Rato Machhendranath Festival.
RATO MACHHENDRANATH TEMPLE
Almost directly across the road, another gateway leads to the wide, open square containing the revered Rato Machhendranath Temple (Red Machhendranath Temple; Map). Dedicated to the god of rain and plenty, the temple straddles the line between Buddhism and Hinduism. Buddhists regard Rato Machhendranath as an incarnation of Avalokitesvara, while Hindus see him as an incarnation of Shiva.
Set inside a protective metal fence, the towering three-storey temple dates from 1673, but there has been some kind of temple on this site since at least 1408. The temple’s four ornate doorways are guarded by stone lions and at ground level on the four corners of the temple plinth are curious yeti-like demons known as kyah.
Mounted on freestanding pillars at the front of the temple is a curious collection of metal animals, including peacocks, Garudas, horses, buffalos, lions, elephants, fish and snakes. Look up to see the richly painted roof struts of the temple, which show Avalokitesvara standing above figures being tortured in hell.
The temple comes into its own during the Rato Machhendranath Festival in April–May.
MAHABOUDDHA TEMPLE
To reach the Mahabouddha Temple (Temple of a Thousand Buddhas; Map), you must walk southeast from Durbar Sq along Hakha Tole, passing a series of small Vaishnavite and Shaivite temples.
When you reach Sundhara Tole, with its sunken hiti with three brass waterspouts, turn right and look for the tiny doorway leading to the temple.
As you step through, the temple suddenly looms above you, crammed into a tiny courtyard. Built in the Indian shikhara style, the shrine takes its name from the hundreds of terracotta tiles that cover it, each bearing an image of the Buddha. The temple is loosely modelled on the Mahabouddha Temple at Bodhgaya in India, where the Buddha gained enlightenment.
The temple dates from 1585, but it was ruined by the 1934 earthquake and totally rebuilt. Unfortunately, without plans to work from, the builders ended up with a different-looking temple, and had enough bricks and tiles left over to construct a smaller shrine to Maya Devi, the Buddha’s mother, in the corner of the courtyard!
The surrounding lanes are full of shops selling high-quality Patan-style metal statues of Hindu and Buddhist deities, and these even spill into the square around the temple. The roof terrace of the shop at the back of the courtyard has a good view of the temple and there’s no undue pressure to buy.
UKU BAHAL (RUDRA VARNA MAHAVIHAR)
South of the Mahabouddha Temple, this ancient Buddhist monastery (Map) is one of the best known in Patan.
The main courtyard is jam-packed with statuary and metalwork – dorjes, bells, peacocks, elephants, Garudas, rampant goats, kneeling devotees, a regal-looking statue of a Rana general, and, rather incongruously, a pair of Victorian-style British lions that look like they would be mush more at home in Trafalgar Sq than in a Buddhist monastery in Nepal!
The monastery has been used for centuries, and the wooden roof struts are some of the oldest in the valley, but much of what you can see today dates back to the 19th century. Behind the monastery is a large stupa in the Swayambhunath style.
LAGAN STUPA
South of the noisy Lagankhel Bus Stand, crowning a hilltop in a small park, the Lagan Stupa (Map) is one of the four stupas marking the historical city limits of Patan (see boxed text). It’s a scenic spot and a good vantage point from which to look out over the southern part of Patan.
Zoo
Nepal’s only zoo (Map; 5528323; admission adult/child Rs 150/100, paddle boats Rs 40; 10am-5pm) is in the southwestern part of Patan by the Jawalakhel roundabout. Although there is definitely room for improvement, the animals live in better conditions than you might expect and there are always crowds of local kids being wowed by such exotic creatures as elephants, tigers, leopards, hyenas, guar, deer, blue bulls, gharials, giant tortoises, langur monkeys and some very noisy hippos. Stoners routinely get freaked out by the giant 60cm-long squirrels.
Western Temples
To the north of the Jawalakhel roundabout is a group of temples clustered around the busy road to Kathmandu. Next to the St Xavier School is the stately, Newari-style Ugrachandi Temple (Map), dedicated to Parvati in the form she adopted to drive the buffalo-demon Mahisasura from heaven. Further north at Pulchowk is the Western Stupa (Map), marking the western city limits of Patan, set on a grassy knoll. A set of steps leads uphill to the Aksheshwor Mahavihar (Map), a courtyard-style Buddhist monastery on the hilltop.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
Patan’s most dramatic festival is the Rato Machhendranath Festival in April–May, followed by the Janai Purnima Festival at Kumbeshwar Temple in July–August.
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SLEEPING
There’s a small but decent spread of accommodation for all budgets in Patan.
Budget
Durbar Guest House (Map; 5540034; www.durbarguesthouse.com; s without bathroom Rs 200-250, d with bathroom Rs 500-600) Close to Sundhara Tole, this place is set back from the road behind a statue shop. Rooms are not too exciting but they are functional and cheap.
Mahabuddha Guest House (Map; 5540575; [email protected]; s/d Rs 450/600; ) Southeast of Durbar Sq, across the road from the Mahabouddha Temple, this is a good budget choice, with tidy, cared-for rooms and an internet cafe. Rooms can be dark so aim for a room higher up.
Café de Patan (Map; 5537599; www.cafedepatan.com; r with/without bathroom Rs 800/600) This courtyard hotel is almost on Durbar Sq and there’s a rooftop garden and a pleasant downstairs cafe Click here. The neat, modern rooms get plenty of light, but only two have bathrooms.
Midrange & Top End
Patan has a good selection of more expensive hotels and all accept international credit cards.
Newa Chén (Map; 5533532; www.newachen.com; s with/without bathroom US$25/20, d with/without bathroom US$40/30) Housed inside the Unesco-restored Shestha House mansion, this charming boutique hotel offers a window onto what it must have been like to be a well-to-do resident of Patan in centuries past. Rooms are decked out in traditional style with divan seating areas and coir matting on the floors.
Hotel Goodwill (Map; 5544520; www.hotelgoodwillpatan.com; s/d from US$25/30; ) South of Uku Bahal, this comfortable midrange hotel is a spin-off from a metal workshop and the owners have filled it with an outrageous bestiary of statues. The wood-floored rooms are large and inviting, and the pool makes this a good choice for families.
Aloha Inn (Map; 5522796; www.alohainn.com; s/d with air-conditioning US$30/35, s/d without air-conditioning US$25/30;
) Where they got the Hawaiian name from is anyone’s guess, but the Aloha is calm, friendly and blissfully air-conditioned. Rooms are slightly chintzy, but good value, with TVs and bathrooms, plus fridges in the air-conditioned
Lonely Planet has found the best of Nepal. Lose yourself in the temple-strewn alleys of Bhaktapur, the quiet beauty of a Himalayan vista or the vibrant excitement of a Bodhnath Stupa pilgrimage – then find your next adventure with our 8th edition of this indispensable guide.
Lonely Planet guides are written by experts who get to the heart of every destination they visit. This fully updated edition is packed with accurate, practical and honest advice, designed to give you the information you need to make the most of your trip.
In This Guide:
Adrenaline-packed activities chapter has you paddling, biking and climbing Nepal
Full-Color Feature reveals the best temples, festivals and mountain trails
Green Index helps you tread lightly