The Cook’s Illustrated How-to-Cook Library – Read Now and Download Mobi
THE COOK'S ILLUSTRATED HOW-TO-COOK LIBRARY
An illustrated step-by-step guide to foolproof cooking.
By the Editors of COOK'S ILLUSTRATED
Illustrations by John Burgoyne
Copyright © 2009 by The Editors of Cook's Illustrated
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any manner whatsoever without written permission from the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical articles or reviews.
America's Test Kitchen
17 Station Street
Brookline, Massachusetts 02146
The Cook's Illustrated How-to-Cook Library
An illustrated step-by-step guide to foolproof cooking
The Editors of Cook's Illustrated
Special Kindle Edition
e-ISBN: 978-1-933615-45-5
Editorial Director: Jack Bishop
Design Director: Amy Klee
Cover Design: Greg Galvan
Cover Art and Illustrations: John Burgoyne
Recipe Development: Julia Collin Davison, Melissa Hamilton, Bridget Lancaster,
Elizabeth Germain, Kay Rentschler, Anne Yamanaka, Dawn Yanagihara
CONTENTS
How to Cook Shrimp & Other Shellfish
How to Make Pot Pies and Casseroles
How to Cook Holiday Roasts & Birds
How to Barbecue & Roast on the Grill
How to Make Muffins, Biscuits, & Scones
How to Make Cookie Jar Favorites
How to Make An American Layer Cake
How to Make Simple Fruit Desserts
Introduction
There are all sorts of cookbooks out there. Some have 2,000 recipes, others have 200. Some are packed with color photos, others black and white. Some are nothing more than recipes, others are part of a narrative describing a life or place. But I am still struck by a comment made to me over 20 years ago by a Swedish friend and cook, who offered this advice, "It's not how many recipes, it's which recipes." Sometimes expertise turns up where you least expect it, as in the story I'd heard about a New York couple who purchased a farm in Vermont back in the 1930s. Instead of using the local surveyor to check the property lines, they hired an expensive firm out of the city so they would get a top-notch job. Three men showed up, but after two days of work they still could not find the last corner. The firm finally had to admit defeat and ask for help from the local surveyor, who, in no time at all, found the spot in question. The New York firm received a bill a few days later for $100. They wrote back indicating that they needed the work itemized since the bill was a bit pricey. The new invoice came by return post: "Twenty-five dollars for finding the corner and $75 for knowing where it was."
The notion of "knowing where it was" is the founding principle for our "How-to-Cook" library. Knowing the best way to produce tender stew meat; knowing the best techniques for preheating a skillet or seeding a tomato; knowing whether Dutch-processed cocoa is better than natural in a particular recipe—years and years of test kitchen work all contributed to this unique collection. Each chapter contains a definitive repertoire of recipes, only the ones you really want and need, recipes tested and developed here at America's Test Kitchen. These are small jewels, just the thing when you want to make a pasta sauce, layer cake, holiday dessert, or mashed potatoes, or when you want to roast, grill, stew, bake, sauté, or stir-fry.
Every cook has a repertoire, the key recipes that are appealing, practical, useful, and interesting enough to keep in the rotation. To this day, my wife, Adrienne, swears that the Chicken Noodle Soup recipe is the best she has ever made, and we make it for dinner at least twice a month. Or the Ham and Split Pea Soup, Oven Fries, Fruit Cobbler with Butter Cookie Dough Topping, Grill-Roasted Chicken, Quick Lasagne with Meatballs, or the French-Style Potato Salad. These are the staples of our weeknight menus. Sure, in this day and age, access to virtually millions of recipes is right at your fingertips through the Web. But who needs millions of recipes that might or might not work? What any home cook wants are recipes that work, the first time and every time.
I have always believed that the best way to make a good cook is to give them a good recipe. These are recipes that don't have to be second-guessed, fixed up, or changed around if you don't have a convection oven, are cooking on an electric rather than a gas stovetop, or are using the wrong size skillet. That's our job, to figure out what might go wrong with a recipe and engineer it for the best possible chance of success in your kitchen, with your cookware.
So enjoy this very special Kindle collection of recipes. It is not available anywhere else. It covers all the culinary ground, from barbecue, grilling, garden vegetables, holiday roasts, potatoes, soups, stews, stir-fries, pasta sauces, pizza, appetizers, salads, shrimp and shellfish, to pies, layer cakes, cookies and brownies, holiday desserts, ice cream, simple fruit desserts, and lots more. It's all you really need in the kitchen and it all sits nice and handy on a Kindle as well. Now your own definitive recipe collection is portable and easy to access, the perfect helper in the kitchen. Just remember to invite us over for dinner!
Christopher Kimball
Founder and Editor
Cook's Illustrated and Cook's Country
Host, "America's Test Kitchen" and "Cook's Country From America's Test Kitchen" on PBS
APPETIZER BASICS
THE DICTIONARY DEFINES APPETIZER AS "a food or drink that stimulates the appetite." The French word hors d'oeuvre is translated as "apart from the work," and the Italian antipasto literally means "before the meal." Both are synonyms for appetizer and refer to the fact that these little fingers foods are eaten away from the dining table, often on the hoof. At a cocktail party, appetizers can be a meal unto themselves.
For this book, we have tested countless recipes for appetizer favorites from around the world, finally selecting the versions that taste best and require the least amount of work. In general, we have limited hands-on work to no more than 20 minutes for each recipe, plus baking and cooling times. Wherever possible we have provided do-ahead instructions to keep the cook out of the kitchen during the party.
The book is divided by the main ingredient in the appetizer (eggs, vegetables, meat, etc.). Within each chapter, we start with the recipes that are the easiest and quickest to make. Recipes at the end of each chapter tend to be a bit more complicated.
DECIDING HOW MANY APPETIZERS TO MAKE
The question we hear most often about appetizers concerns quantity. How many types of appetizers and how many pieces are required? The answer depends how long you plan to serve the appetizers and what follows. Some examples.
If you plan a short cocktail hour (let's say 45 minutes, while you wait for all of your guests to arrive) followed by a multicourse meal, you want to serve just one to two appetizers. (If you are expecting a large crowd, you might consider making three appetizers.) Plan on three or four pieces per person if you plan on one hour or less for cocktails. For more than one hour, make at least two appetizers and plan on four to six pieces per person.
A true cocktail party (with no dinner to follow) requires more types of appetizer and more pieces. In many cases, guests drink for several hours and some may even make a meal out of the appetizers. In this case, you want to serve at least five or six appetizers and should plan on at least 10 to 12 pieces per person.
Dips can be used to supplement the above recommendations, or, for a simple appetizer, you can serve a single dip and some crudités (raw vegetables) and skip the individual pieces.
Take into account how heavy and filling the appetizers you have chosen are. Guests are likely to be satisfied by two or three pieces of rolled beef but might want four or five large shrimp with cocktail sauce.
CHOOSING SPECIFIC APPETIZERS
The other area that perplexes many cooks is choosing particular appetizers. There are no hard-and-fast rules, but these guidelines should help.
Keep the season in mind, serving lighter foods in summer and heavier fare in winter.
Figure out where you plan to serve appetizers. If guests will be seated on sofas and can hold forks, knives, and plates, then almost anything will work. If guests will be gathering on foot, limit your selection to true finger foods and dips.
If you are serving dinner, plan the meal first and then use foods not already represented in the appetizers. For example, if your menu calls for steak, potatoes, and asparagus as the main course, you would not want to want to serve any of these foods as appetizers.
If serving more than one or two appetizers, choose appetizers that go well together. It's fine to have one rich appetizer with cheese, but don't serve three cheese appetizers. At cocktail parties, you will probably want a mix of hot and cold (or room temperature) appetizers.
For a shorter cocktail hour before dinner, you many want to stick with cold appetizers, which don't require any last-minute preparation. If you want to serve a hot appetizer, consider gathering guests in the kitchen so you don't have to slave away in solitude.
DIPS AND SALSAS
DIPS AND SALSAS ARE THE MOST BASIC party food. Put out a bowl of tomato salsa and chips or some creamy spinach dip and vegetables and most people will be satisfied. Cooks generally focus on the dip and don't give the accompaniments much thought. Chips are a given, but flatbreads and crackers work equally well. As for vegetables, we find that platters of raw broccoli and cauliflower are often inedible.
In our testing, we found the preparation of vegetables for crudités to be essential. There are two key elements: how the vegetable is sliced and whether or not it should be blanched (cooked briefly in salted boiling water) to make the texture more palatable and to improve its flavor.
The information that follows details the findings of our testing. When deciding which vegetables to use together for crudités, consider these factors: First and foremost, use what's in season and looks good at the market. Second, choose a variety of colors. A platter consisting entirely of green vegetables is not as attractive as a platter of green, white, yellow, orange, and red vegetables. Last, consider the texture of the vegetables. Crunchy, hard carrots work well with crisp, juicy bell peppers and soft cherry tomatoes.
Each of the preparations listed below yields about three cups of vegetables. Plan on serving 12 cups of vegetables with any of the dip recipes that follow. This translates to an average of four vegetables for a crudités platter to accompany a single dip.
ASPARAGUS: Snap tough ends from 12 ounces asparagus. Blanch in boiling salted water until bright green, 20 to 30 seconds. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
BROCCOLI: Cut florets from 1 small bunch (about 1 pound) into bite-sized pieces. Blanch in boiling salted water until bright green, about 1 minute. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
CARROTS: Blanch 3/4 pound baby carrots in boiling salted water until bright orange, about 15 seconds. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
CAULIFLOWER: Cut florets from 1/2 medium head (about 1 pound) into bite-sized pieces. Blanch in boiling salted water until slightly tender, about 1 minute. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
CELERY: Trim ends from 4 medium stalks (about 1/2 pound). Cut stalks in half lengthwise, then crosswise into 3-inch lengths.
GREEN BEANS: Trim ends from 8 ounces thin green beans. Blanch in boiling salted water until bright green, 15 to 20 seconds. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
PEPPERS: Stem and seed 3 small red, yellow, or orange bell peppers. Cut into strips about 3 inches long and 3/4 inch wide.
SUGAR SNAP PEAS: Remove ends and strings from 8 ounces sugar snap peas. Blanch in boiling salted water until bright green, about 15 seconds. Drain, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry.
TOMATOES: Stem 1 pound cherry tomatoes.
Classic Red Table Salsa
makes about 5 cups
NOTE:
Our favorite Mexican-style salsa is perfect with tortilla chips. To reduce the heat in the salsa, seed the chile.
3 large, very ripe tomatoes (about 2 pounds), cored and diced small
1/2 cup tomato juice
1 small jalapeno or other fresh chile, stemmed and minced
1 medium red onion, diced small
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1/2 cup lime juice
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix all ingredients, including salt to taste, in medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate to meld flavors, at least 1 hour and up to 5 days.
Chunky Guacamole
makes 21/2 to 3 cups
NOTE:
To prevent discoloration, prepare the minced ingredients first so they are ready to mix with the avocados as soon as they are cut. Ripe avocados are essential here. To test for ripeness, try to flick the small stem off the end of the avocado. If it comes off easily and you can see green underneath it, the avocado is ripe.
3 medium, ripe avocados (preferably the pebbly skinned Haas)
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1 small jalapeno chile, stemmed and minced
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin (optional)
2 tablespoons lime juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Halve one avocado, remove pit, and scoop flesh into medium bowl. Mash flesh lightly with onion, garlic, chile, cilantro, salt, and cumin (if using) with fork until just combined.
2. Halve and pit remaining two avocados. Following figures 1 and 2, cut flesh into 1/2-inch cubes. Add cubes to bowl with mashed avocado mixture.
3. Sprinkle lime juice over diced avocado and mix entire contents of bowl lightly with fork until combined but still chunky. Adjust seasonings and serve. (Can be covered with plastic wrap, pressed directly onto surface of mixture, and refrigerated up to 1 day. Return guacamole to room temperature, removing plastic wrap at last moment, before serving.)
Figure 1.
Use a dish towel to hold avocado half steady. Make 1/2 -inch crosshatch incisions in the flesh with a paring knife, cutting down to but not through skin.
Figure 2.
Separate diced flesh from skin using a spoon inserted between the skin and the flesh, gently scooping out avocado cubes.
Clam Dip with Bacon and Scallions
makes about 2 cups
NOTE:
Regular or light sour cream and mayonnaise can be used in this dip and the one that follows. We found that lighter versions yield a slightly less creamy dip but are surprisingly good.
4 strips (4 ounces) bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
3/4 cup sour cream (regular or light)
3/4 cup mayonnaise (regular or light)
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 cans (61/2 ounces each) minced clams, drained
2 medium scallions, sliced thin
Salt and ground black pepper
Cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Fry bacon in small skillet over medium heat until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer bacon with slotted spoon to plate lined with paper towel; let cool.
2. Whisk together sour cream, mayonnaise, lemon juice, and Worcestershire sauce in serving bowl. Stir in clams, scallions, and bacon. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Cover and chill until flavors meld, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
Green Goddess Dip
makes about 13/4 cups
NOTE:
Mayonnaise adds body to this dip, while sour cream brings some needed tang and brightness.
3/4 cup sour cream (regular or light)
3/4 cup mayonnaise (regular or light)
2 medium garlic cloves, chopped
1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves
2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 anchovy fillets, minced
1/4 cup minced fresh chives
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine sour cream, mayonnaise, garlic, parsley, tarragon, lemon juice, and anchovies in food processor and process until smooth and creamy, scraping down sides of bowl once or twice.
2. Transfer mixture to serving bowl and stir in chives. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and chill until flavors meld, at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
Hummus
makes about 21/2 cups
NOTE:
This Middle Eastern chickpea dip/spread flavored with tahini (sesame paste) is delicious with pita bread or pita chips as well as vegetables.
1 can (19 ounces) chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 large garlic clove, minced
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup tahini
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup water
3/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch ground cayenne pepper
Pinch ground paprika
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine chickpeas, garlic, 4 tablespoons oil, and tahini in food processor and process until smooth, scraping sides of bowl as necessary, about 30 seconds. Add lemon juice, water, salt, and cayenne and process again until smooth, an additional 10 seconds. Transfer hummus to serving bowl, cover, and chill until flavors meld, at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.
2. To serve, use back of soup spoon to make a trough in hummus. Pour remaining 2 tablespoons oil into trough. Sprinkle with paprika and serve immediately.
Bagna Cauda
makes about 11/2 cups
NOTE:
Bagna cauda is a traditional hot anchovy dip hailing from the Piedmont region of Italy. It must be kept warm, so use a fondue pot or double boiler for serving. If you like your bagna cauda spicy, try the optional red pepper flakes. Serve with vegetables and bread.
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 medium garlic cloves, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (optional)
1 can (2 ounces) anchovy fillets, rinsed and drained
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil and butter in small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-low heat until butter is melted and just begins to foam, about 3 minutes.
2. Add garlic and red pepper flakes (if using), and cook until garlic is fragrant but not colored, about 30 seconds. Add anchovy fillets and cook, stirring and mashing fillets with a wooden spoon until they become a paste. Season sparingly with salt to taste and serve, keeping mixture warm.
CHEESE APPETIZERS
BUY CHEESE FROM A SOURCE YOU TRUST. Cheeses are fragile, and stores that don't handle them properly should be avoided. Always ask to taste a bit of any cheese before buying it. Cheese should not appear cracked, dried out, or—except for blue cheese—moldy. Buy small portions, no more than you will use in a week or so.
Once purchased, cheeses should be wrapped well. We find that wrapping cheese in layers of parchment (on the inside) and foil is best, followed closely by placing the cheese in a plastic bag and squeezing out all the air before sealing. While cheese should be stored in the refrigerator, always let cheeses come to room temperature before serving. The flavor and texture of most cheeses is improved at room temperature.
When serving several cheeses together, select a variety based on texture (soft, hard, crumbly), flavor (mild, sharp, pungent), and milk types (cow, sheep, goat).
Dates Stuffed with Parmesan
makes 16 pieces
NOTE:
Use high-quality dates (such as Medjools) and only the finest Parmigiano-Reggiano in this appetizer.
16 large pitted dates
1 piece (3 ounces) Parmesan cheese
16 walnut halves, toasted
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Slit dates lengthwise with paring knife.
2. Following figures 3 and 4, cut cheese into thin shards about one inch long. Place a piece of cheese and one walnut half in each date and close date around cheese to seal. Place dates on serving platter. (Dates can be wrapped in plastic and kept at room temperature for several hours.)
Figure 3.
Use a chef's knife to remove the rind from a square block of Parmesan cheese. Cut the trimmed block in half on the diagonal.
Figure 4.
Lay each half on its cut side and slice the cheese into thin triangles, about 1/16-inch wide. These thin shards should be about the size of a date.
Warm Figs with Goat Cheese and Honey
makes 16 pieces
NOTE:
The figs should be baked very briefly, just long enough to soften the cheese and warm the figs.
16 walnut halves (about 1/2 cup)
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
11/2 ounces goat cheese (about 3 tablespoons)
8 fresh figs, halved lengthwise
2 tablespoons honey
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine walnuts, brown sugar, salt, and cinnamon in small, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until sugar melts and coats nuts evenly, about 3 minutes. Remove nuts from pan, separating them from each other. Cool.
2. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 500 degrees. Spoon heaping 1/2 teaspoon goat cheese onto each fig half and place on parchment-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Bake figs for 4 minutes. Transfer warm figs to serving platter.
3. Place a candied walnut half on each fig half and drizzle honey over figs. Serve immediately.
Marinated Goat Cheese
serves 4
NOTE:
The garlic should be broken down into a fine puree for this recipe. After mincing, sprinkle the garlic with salt, mash the garlic-salt mixture with the side of a chef's knife, and then continue to mince until the garlic forms a smooth puree. Serve with bread or crackers.
1 log (8 ounces) goat cheese
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
3/4 teaspoon minced fresh chives
1/4 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary leaves
1 small garlic clove, minced and then worked into a puree with 1/8 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Following figure 5, use a piece of dental floss to cut cheese crosswise into slices 1/3 inch thick.
2. Whisk together oil, thyme, chives, rosemary, garlic-salt puree, and pepper to taste in small bowl.
3. Pour oil mixture over cheese. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.
Figure 5.
A knife quickly becomes covered with goat cheese, making it difficult to cut clean, neat slices. A piece of dental floss is much easier to use. Slide an 18-inch piece of floss under the cheese. Cross the ends of the floss above the cheese and then pull the floss through the cheese to make slices at 1/3-inch intervals.
Grilled Mozzarella and Sun-Dried Tomato Skewers
makes 24 skewers
NOTE:
Use dried, loose tomatoes, not those packed in oil, for this recipe.
48 large sun-dried tomatoes (about 3 ounces)
1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch cubes (you should have about 48 pieces)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 teaspoons salt
Ground black pepper
48 small basil leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack so that it is about 6 inches from broiler and heat broiler.
2. Combine 3/4 cup water and tomatoes in medium microwave-proof bowl. Microwave for 30 seconds. Cover and let stand until tomatoes soften, about 5 minutes. Drain and blot dry on paper towels.
3. Meanwhile, toss mozzarella with oil, salt, and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Using 24 short bamboo or wooden skewers, thread a piece of mozzarella, basil leaf, and tomato (in that order) onto each skewer; repeat with second piece of mozzarella, basil leaf, and tomato. Brush skewers with any oil remaining in bowl.
4. Line bottom of broiler pan bottom with foil and coat broiler pan rack with cooking spray. Place 12 skewers on broiler pan rack. Broil skewers, turning once, until cheese begins to melt, about 2 minutes. Remove from oven and let rest for 30 seconds. Pick up each skewer, twirling any melted cheese around the skewer, and serve immediately. Repeat with remaining skewers.
Figure 6.
The cheese melts slightly under the broiler. Once the skewers have cooled for about 30 seconds, pick up each skewer and spin it gently in your fingers to wrap any strings of melted cheese back around the skewers.
Honey-Baked Brie Wrapped in Phyllo
serves 8
NOTE:
A small wheel of brie can be wrapped in phyllo to form an extralarge beggar's purse. Serve the warm brie with a very sharp knife and spread it on crackers. The white, chalky mold that covers a wheel of brie can give off an ammonia-like odor when heated, especially if the cheese has been wrapped in packaging for some time and been unable to breathe. Remove the mold to prevent this problem. For this recipe, thaw a 1-pound box of phyllo (which has about 20 sheets) in the refrigerator overnight. Let the boxed phyllo come to room temperature on the counter for 2 hours.
10 sheets frozen phyllo dough (about 8 ounces), thawed and brought to room temperature
1 wheel of brie (about 2 pounds, 6 inches in diameter)
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons honey
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Remove phyllo from box and place on kitchen cloth that's just barely damp. Cover with another barely damp cloth and then a dry cloth to prevent phyllo from drying out.
2. Scrape white, chalky layer of mold off cheese rind, leaving remaining rind intact (see figure 7). Working with one phyllo sheet at a time, brush about 11/4 teaspoons melted butter lightly over sheet and arrange according to figures 8 and 9.
3. Place trimmed brie in center of phyllo layers. Use back of spoon to spread honey over top of brie. Following figure 10, lift edges of phyllo to enclose cheese, gathering excess on top. Brush surface with remaining tablespoon of butter and place on parchment-lined, rimmed baking sheet.
4. Cover top of phyllo with piece of foil (see figure 11) and bake for 15 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking until phyllo is golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer brie to platter and serve immediately.
Figure 7.
Using a soup spoon, scrape the white, chalky layer of mold off the rind, leaving the remaining rind intact.
Figure 8.
Lay one sheet of phyllo on the counter and brush lightly with butter. Lay a second sheet perpendicular to the first sheet and brush with butter.
Figure 9.
Crisscross two more sheets of phyllo on top of the first two sheets, buttering each as directed. Repeat the process with another four sheets of phyllo, laying them perpendicular to each other. Lay the final two sheets at right angles to each other on top of the pile.
Figure 10.
Once the cheese has been placed in the center of the phyllo, lift the edges of the phyllo sheets up and over the cheese to enclose it. Gather the excess phyllo on top and pinch together to form a beggar's purse.
Figure 11.
Crimp the edges of a 5-inch square of foil. Carefully place the foil over the pinched top of the phyllo to keep it from burning in the oven.
VEGETABLE APPETIZERS
VEGETABLES MAKE EXCELLENT APPETIZERS because they are generally light and refreshing. They are appropriate before a heavy meal, especially one that contains a lot of meat and/or cheese.
Vegetable appetizers can also be used to set the tone for a seasonal meal. It makes good sense to start a spring meal with fresh grown asparagus and a summer supper with marinated zucchini. Starchier vegetables, such as potatoes, are best for winter meals or cocktail parties where you want guests to feel more full.
Marinated Black and Green Olives
makes about 3 cups
NOTE:
These olives will keep in the refrigerator for at least a month and are perfect for impromptu entertaining. Ouzo is a sweet, licorice-flavored Greek spirit. You can substitute sambuca.
8 ounces large, brine-cured green olives with pits
8 ounces large, brine-cured black olives with pits
5 large garlic cloves, crushed
3 large shallots, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 cup ouzo
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Drain olives into colander and rinse them well under cold running water. Drain olives well.
2. Combine remaining ingredients in glass or plastic bowl. Add olives and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours. Remove from refrigerator at least 30 minutes before serving.
Prosciutto-Wrapped Roasted Asparagus
makes about 20 pieces
NOTE:
Make sure you have the same number of asparagus spears and pieces of prosciutto (count them once they have been cut into 3-inch lengths). The number should be around 20.
1 pound thin asparagus spears, tough ends snapped off
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
3 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto, cut crosswise into 3-inch pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler. Toss asparagus with oil on rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Broil, shaking pan halfway through to turn asparagus, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes.
2. Sprinkle asparagus with vinegar and cheese. Cool slightly. Wrap a piece of prosciutto around bottom half of each asparagus spear, making sure to leave the tip of the asparagus exposed. Arrange asparagus on platter and serve immediately.
Small Potatoes Stuffed with Bacon and Cheese
makes 16 pieces
NOTE:
It's important to remove as much of the potato flesh as possible, leaving behind just a very thin layer attached to the skin.
8 small red or white potatoes, about 2 ounces each
Salt
4 slices bacon (about 4 ounces), finely chopped
1 small onion, minced
1 medium garlic clove, minced
21/2 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons minced chives
Ground black pepper
11/4 ounces sharp cheddar, very thinly sliced
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring 6 cups water to boil in medium saucepan. Add potatoes and 2 tablespoons salt and boil, partially covered, until potatoes are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, fry bacon in small, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Use slotted spoon to transfer bacon to plate lined with paper towels and pour off all but 1 tablespoon bacon fat from skillet.
3. Add onion to remaining fat in skillet. Sauté over medium heat until golden, about 31/2 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Remove pan from heat.
4. When potatoes are done, drain and cool slightly. (It is important that the potato flesh be hot when processed with the other ingredients, so don't cool to much.) Following figure 12, halve and hollow out potatoes, placing potato flesh in medium bowl along with bacon, onion mixture, cream cheese, chives, and salt and pepper to taste. Using electric mixer, beat mixture on medium speed until just combined, about 10 seconds.
5. Adjust oven rack so that it is 6 inches from broiler, and heat broiler. Following figure 13, stuff potatoes and arrange in shallow 9-inch metal pie pan. Broil 10 minutes. Remove potatoes from broiler and top each half with slice of cheddar. Return potatoes to broiler and broil until cheese melts, about 5 seconds. Serve immediately.
Figure 12.
Cut the potatoes in half around the equator. Trim a very thin slice from the end so each piece will sit flat on the counter. Use a paring knife to trace a neat outline just inside the skin of the potato. Use a small spoon to scrape out the flesh inside the circle, leaving a thin band of flesh attached to the skin.
Figure 13.
Using a small spoon, stuff a small amount of cheese-flavored potato mixture back into each potato half, mounding the filling slightly over the top of the potato half.
Roasted Mushroom Caps Stuffed with Sausage
makes 24 pieces
NOTE:
Prepare stuffing while mushrooms caps are roasting.
24 large mushrooms, stems discarded and caps wiped clean
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
12 ounces bulk pork sausage
4 slices white bread, torn into large pieces
1 large shallot, coarsely chopped
1 large garlic clove, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon mustard
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons port wine
3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 large egg, lightly beaten
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to lowest position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Toss mushroom caps, oil, and salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Arrange caps, gill-side down, in single layer on large baking sheet. Roast until mushrooms have released some juice and are brown around edges, about 15 minutes. Remove pan from oven and turn caps over with metal spatula. Continue to roast until mushroom liquid has evaporated completely and mushroom caps are uniformly brown, 5 to 10 minutes longer.
2. Meanwhile, place sausage in medium skillet over medium-high heat and sauté until brown, about 5 minutes. Drain excess fat.
3. Place cooked sausage, bread, shallot, and garlic in food processor. Pulse until coarsely chopped, about 10 one-second pulses. Transfer filling to small mixing bowl and stir in remaining ingredients, including 1 teaspoon ground black pepper.
4. When mushrooms caps are uniformly brown, remove pan from oven and fill each mushroom with a heaping tablespoon of filling (or more depending on mushroom's size). Continue baking until filling is golden brown and hot throughout, about 15 minutes. Transfer to platter and serve immediately.
Corn Fritters
makes 30 small cakes
NOTE:
These fritters are delicious on their own but are even better when topped with a dollop of sour cream and smoked salmon or chive-flavored sour cream and caviar.
2 cups frozen corn kernels, partially thawed
1 large egg
3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons cornmeal
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 large shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
11/4 teaspoons salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
1/4 cup vegetable oil for frying, or more as needed
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine all ingredients except oil in food processor and pulse until mixture forms thick batter, with some whole kernels and bits of corn still visible, about ten 1-second pulses. (The batter can be covered and refrigerated for several hours.)
2. Heat oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers, about 2 minutes. Using a measuring teaspoon, drop silver-dollar-sized rounds of batter into oil (half the batter, or 15 fritters, should fit into the skillet at once). Fry until golden on one side, about 40 seconds. Using a thin metal spatula, turn fritters and fry until other side is golden, about 40 seconds more. Drain fritters on triple thickness of paper towels. Maintaining heat in skillet, repeat with remaining batter, adding more oil if necessary. Serve immediately.
Cocktail Potato Pancakes
makes 30 small cakes
NOTE:
Serve these miniature potato cakes with a dollop of sour cream or apple sauce.
2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and cut into eighths
1 large egg
2 tablespoons minced fresh chives
3 tablespoons matzo meal
11/2 teaspoons salt
Ground black pepper
1 cup vegetable oil for frying
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Grate potatoes in a food processor fitted with coarse shredding blade. Place half of potatoes in fine mesh sieve set over medium bowl and reserve. Fit processor with steel blade, add onion, and pulse with remaining potatoes until mixture looks coarsely chopped, about six 1-second pulses. Combine with potatoes in sieve and toss together, pressing to extract as much liquid as possible from potatoes into bowl beneath. Let potato liquid stand until starch settles to bottom, then pour off liquid, leaving starch in bowl. Beat egg, potatoes, chives, matzo meal, and salt and pepper to taste into starch.
2. Heat half of oil in 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering, about 3 minutes. Meanwhile, invert a rimmed baking sheet and cover with aluminum foil or parchment paper. Using a tablespoon measure, form half potato mixture into 15 cakes on back of baking sheet. Transfer cakes one by one to hot oil with thin metal spatula. Fry until golden brown on one side, about 3 minutes. (Use this time to form remaining cakes on back of baking sheet.) Turn with spatula and continue frying until golden brown on second side, about 3 minutes more. Drain pancakes on triple thickness of paper towels.
3. Pour oil from pan and wipe clean with paper towels. Add remaining 1/2 cup oil to pan and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Fry remaining pancakes as directed above. Serve immediately.
MEAT AND CHICKEN APPETIZERS
MEAT APPETIZERS STRIKE US AS COCKTAIL party food. Most are substantial, so that if dinner is soon to follow, you should offer something light, like Prosciutto-Wrapped Melon, or small portions of sliced meats, such as prosciutto and salami, served with bread, olives, and cheese.
Most meat appetizers must be served hot. We suggest ways to prepare as much as possible in advance (sauces can generally be made and other ingredients can be prepared and often skewered), but meat appetizers usually involve some last-minute cooking.
Prosciutto-Wrapped Melon
makes 32 pieces
NOTE:
To use a honeydew melon, cut one half into 16 crescents, then cut crescents in half crosswise. Reserve remaining melon for another use.
1 medium cantaloupe
1/4 pound thinly sliced prosciutto, cut into
2 by 5-inch pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Trim rind from melon, cut melon in half, and scoop out seeds with spoon. Cut each half into eight 1/2-inch-wide crescents. Cut each crescent in half crosswise.
2. Following figure 14, wrap one piece of prosciutto around each melon slice. Serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours.
Figure 14.
Take a piece of prosciutto and carefully wrap it around the thicker end of each melon slice.
Kielbasa Wrapped in Puff Pastry
makes 14 to 16 pieces
NOTE:
The key to success with this recipe is rendering some of the sausage fat, which keeps the puff pastry from becoming soggy. Pastries can be made ahead and frozen for up to two weeks or made ahead and refrigerated for several hours before baking.
1 pound kielbasa
1 sheet (10 by 91/2 inches) commercial puff pastry, still partially frozen, cut in half
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
1/4 cup grainy mustard
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 425 degrees. Cut kielbasa in half crosswise and pierce several times with fork. Roll it in 2 layers of paper towel and microwave on high for 1 minute to release some of the fat; set aside to cool.
2. Meanwhile, place one half of puff pastry between two layers of parchment paper and use a rolling pin to stretch pastry into rectangle that measures about 10 by 7 inches. Brush pastry edges with beaten egg. Following figure 15, roll pastry around sausage. Brush exterior with egg. Place seam-side down on parchment-lined, rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with second piece of puff pastry and kielbasa and place on same baking sheet. Put baking sheet in freezer for 10 minutes.
3. Bake until deep golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to rest for 5 minutes. Slice diagonally into 1/2-inch slices. Arrange slices on platter and serve immediately with a small bowl of mustard.
Figure 15.
Place a piece of kielbasa on the longer edge of the puff pastry. Roll the kielbasa in the pastry and then pinch in the ends to seal.
Indian-Style Meatballs with Apricot Sauce
makes 36 meatballs
NOTE:
We found that freezing the meatballs briefly before frying helps them hold their shape.
Indian-Spiced Meatballs
1 pound ground lamb
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/4 teaspoon garam masala
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons yogurt
1 slice white bread, chopped (about 5 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Apricot Sauce
1 cup apricot preserves
1/4 cup port wine
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon fresh minced mint leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix all ingredients for meatballs except oil in large bowl. Shape into 36 meatballs, each about 1 inch in diameter. Place on parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze for 5 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, combine apricot preserves, port, vinegar, cinnamon, and red pepper flakes in small saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a simmer and remove from heat. Stir in mint and salt and pepper to taste. Transfer sauce to serving bowl and cover to keep warm.
3. Heat heavy-bottomed, 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot, about 4 minutes. Add oil to pan and swirl to coat bottom. Lay half of meatballs in pan and cook, turning occasionally, until well browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Transfer to serving platter. Repeat with remaining meatballs. Place bowl with apricot sauce on platter and serve immediately, with toothpicks.
Asian-Style Beef and Scallion Rolls
makes 35 to 40 pieces
NOTE:
Freezing the meat makes it easier to slice. Rolls can be assembled up to four hours in advance and browned to order.
11/3 pounds flank steak, trimmed of excess fat and frozen for 20 minutes
10 scallions, green part only, cut into 2-inch lengths (see figure 16)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/4 cup tamari sauce
3 tablespoons mirin or sherry
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Cut flank steak in half lengthwise. Following figure 17, slice each half crosswise on the bias as thinly as possible. You should have about forty 2 by 3-inch pieces. Place meat slices between 2 sheets of parchment paper and pound to a uniform thickness, about 1/8 inch. Pieces will measure 3 by 5 inches. Roll each piece of beef up tightly around two or three pieces of scallion (see figure 18).
2. Heat heavy-bottomed large skillet over medium-high heat until hot, about 4 minutes. Add oil and heat briefly until it shimmers. Lay 20 beef rolls in skillet, seam-side down, and sauté, without moving, until browned, about 1 minute. Using tongs, turn rolls to brown on all sides, about 2 minutes more. Remove rolls from pan and set aside on plate to rest. With pan still hot, repeat with remaining beef rolls, transferring them to same plate to rest when done.
3. Add garlic, ginger, and red pepper flakes to empty pan; sauté until fragrant, scraping up any browned bits from bottom of pan, about 10 seconds. Add tamari, mirin, cooked beef rolls, and any accumulated juices on plate. Simmer to finish cooking beef, about 1 minute. Transfer beef to a serving platter and pour sauce into small serving bowl. Skewer beef rolls and place bowl with sauce on platter. Serve immediately.
Figure 16.
Use a pair of scissors to snip the scallion greens into 2-inch lengths. Make sure to separate the several green portions at the top of most scallions and snip each one. A single scallion will yield as many as ten 2-inch lengths of greens.
Figure 17.
Cut the flank steak in half lengthwise. Then slice each half crosswise as thinly as possible on the bias. You will be cutting against the grain of the meat.
Figure 18.
Once the slices of meat have been pounded, place two or three pieces of scallion over the meat and roll tightly, starting at a short end, to seal. The meat is sticky enough to seal without skewers.
Seared Flank Steak with Horseradish Sauce
makes 40 pieces
NOTE:
We strongly recommend using crème fraîche in this recipe. It has a firmer texture than sour cream (which can be watery in sauces like this) and better flavor.
Flank Steak
11/2 pounds flank steak, trimmed of excess fat and patted dry with paper towels
Salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Horseradish Sauce
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
3 tablespoons prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon sugar
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat heavy-bottomed, 12-inch skillet over high heat until very hot, about 4 minutes. While skillet is heating, season steak with salt and pepper to taste. Add oil to pan and swirl to coat bottom. Lay steak in pan and sauté, not moving it, until well browned, about 31/2 minutes. Turn meat with tongs; sauté until browned on second side, about 31/2 minutes more. Transfer steak to plate and let rest for 10 minutes.
2. While steak rests, mix all ingredients for horseradish sauce, including salt and pepper to taste, in small serving bowl.
3. Following figure 17, slice steak crosswise on the bias into slices 1/8 inch thick. Halve longer slices into 3-inch lengths. Roll up each slice tightly, skewer with toothpick, and transfer to serving platter. Place bowl with sauce on platter and serve immediately.
Chicken Satay with Spicy Peanut Sauce
makes 16 skewers
NOTE:
Thai red curry paste is sold in many supermarkets. Look for it near the fish sauce and rice noodles. It has a complex, spicy flavor. An equal amount of hot red pepper flakes will provide the peanut sauce with adequate heat, but the sauce will lack the complex flavor provided by the curry paste.
1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons honey
6 small garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
2 medium scallions, white and green part, sliced thin
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 4 ounces each)
Spicy Peanut Sauce
5 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/3 cup unsweetened coconut milk
1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon Thai red curry paste or hot red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon sugar
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler. Whisk together soy sauce, vegetable oil, sesame oil, honey, garlic, cilantro, ginger, and scallions in large bowl. Cut chicken breasts on diagonal into 16 strips, each about 3 inches long and 1 inch wide. Add chicken to bowl and marinate, stirring occasionally, for 15 to 20 minutes.
2. While chicken marinates, place all ingredients for peanut sauce in blender or food processor and process until smooth. Scrape sauce into small serving bowl.
3. Thread each chicken piece lengthwise on its own short bamboo or wooden skewer. Place skewers on a broiler rack over foil-lined broiler pan bottom. Cover exposed ends of skewers with foil (see figure 19). Brush chicken with marinade remaining in bowl and broil until golden brown, about 21/2 to 3 minutes, turning skewers half-way through. Place skewers on platter with bowl of peanut sauce. Serve immediately.
Figure 19.
To keep the exposed portions of the skewers from burning (the portion people will use as a handle to hold the skewers), cover the ends of the skewers (but not the chicken) with foil.
SEAFOOD APPETIZERS
SEAFOOD MAKES A LIGHT, REFRESHING APPETIZER. The recipes that follow either start with smoked fish (salmon or trout) or call for cooking the seafood in some fashion.
Raw seafood, however, is often so simple to serve that you don't really need a recipe. Clams on the half shell are delicious on their own or with a dollop of cocktail sauce. Choose either littlenecks or cherrystones (the latter are larger) for shucking. Oysters, which can be served like clams, are a bit more complicated to buy. There are five main species and hundreds of varieties, usually named for the places where the oysters are found. Buy oysters from a reputable source and taste several kinds to figure out whether you prefer crisp, briny Atlantic oysters from northern waters; softer, flabbier Atlantic oysters from the Gulf; fruity, sweet Pacific oysters; briny and metallic-tasting European or flat oysters; or briny but sweet Kumamotos.
Clams, oysters, and mussels can also be grilled just until they open (5 to 10 minutes depending on their size). Once the bivalves open, serve with lemon wedges, barbecue sauce, or a little hot sauce.
Smoked Salmon Mousse
makes about 11/4 cups
NOTE:
This tasty spread has multiple applications. It can be piped into hollowed-out cherry tomatoes (use a melon baller to remove the seeds), onto snow peas and endive leaves, or into little tart shells. Our favorite way to use this spread is as a canapé topping for squares of black bread.
4 ounces sliced smoked salmon
1 large shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
2 ounces cream cheese, softened
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/4 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place salmon and shallot in food processor and process until mixture is finely chopped, scraping down bowl as necessary, about 10 seconds. Add cream cheese and lemon juice and process again until mixture forms a ball, again scraping down bowl as necessary. Add crème fraîche and pulse just to incorporate, 5 seconds.
2. Turn mousse into bowl and season with pepper to taste. Use immediately or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 2 days.
VARIATION:
Smoked Trout Mousse
Replace salmon with 1/2 pound smoked trout fillets (about 2 fillets), skinned and broken into pieces. Substitute lime juice for lemon juice. Increase crème fraîche to 1/3 cup. Add 2 tablespoons well-drained prepared horseradish with crème fraîche.
Broiled Shrimp Wrapped with Bacon
makes 24 pieces
NOTE:
We found that blanching makes the bacon a bit less salty and is worth the extra couple of minutes of work.
4 slices bacon (about 4 ounces)
24 small shrimp (about 8 ounces), peeled
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Stack bacon strips on top of each other and halve lengthwise; cut strips diagonally into thirds. Bring 1 quart of water to a boil in medium saucepan. Add bacon and blanch for 50 seconds. Drain bacon and lay flat on triple thickness of paper towels.
2. Adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler. Wrap one piece bacon around each shrimp and place on broiler rack, tucking ends of bacon under shrimp. Sprinkle shrimp with balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.
3. Broil until shrimp are pink and edges of bacon are brown, about 2 minutes, reversing direction of broiler pan after 1 minute. Transfer to a platter and serve immediately, with toothpicks.
Shrimp Cocktail
makes 16 to 20 pieces
NOTE:
Cooking the shrimp in a quick shrimp stock made with the shells gives them a real flavor boost. If using smaller shrimp, decrease cooking time for shrimp by one to two minutes.
Herb-Poached Shrimp
1 pound very large (16 to 20 per pound) shrimp, peeled, deveined, and rinsed, shells reserved
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup dry white wine
4 peppercorns
5 coriander seeds
1/2 bay leaf
5 sprigs fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh tarragon
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Cocktail Sauce
1 cup ketchup
21/2 teaspoons prepared horseradish
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon ancho or other mild chili powder
Pinch cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon lemon juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring reserved shells, 3 cups water, and salt to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat; reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer until fragrant, about 20 minutes. Strain stock through sieve, pressing on shells to extract all liquid.
2. While stock is simmering, combine all ingredients for cocktail sauce in small bowl. Adjust seasonings. Cover and refrigerate sauce to blend flavors, at least 1 hour and up to several days.
3. Bring stock, wine, spices, herbs, and lemon juice to a boil in 3- or 4-quart saucepan over high heat; boil 2 minutes. Turn off heat and stir in shrimp; cover and let stand until firm and pink, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain shrimp, reserving stock for another use.
4. Plunge shrimp into ice water to stop cooking, then drain again. Refrigerate shrimp until well chilled, at least 1 hour and up to several hours. Serve chilled shrimp with cocktail sauce.
Cocktail Crab Cakes
makes 24 small cakes
NOTE:
The amount of bread crumbs you add will depend on the juiciness of the crabmeat. Start with just 2 tablespoons. If the cakes won't hold together once you have added the egg, add more bread crumbs, one tablespoon at a time.
Crab Cakes
1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over to remove cartilage and shell
4 scallions, green part only, minced (about 1/2 cup)
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley leaves
11/2 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning
2 to 4 tablespoons fine dry bread crumbs
1/4 cup mayonnaise
Salt and ground white pepper
1 large egg
1/2 cup flour
6 tablespoons vegetable oil
Creamy Dipping Sauce
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons minced chipotle chiles
1 small garlic clove, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon lime juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Gently mix crabmeat, scallions, parsley, Old Bay, 2 tablespoons bread crumbs, and mayonnaise in medium bowl, being careful not to break up crab lumps. Season with salt and white pepper to taste. Carefully fold in egg with rubber spatula until mixture just clings together. Add more crumbs if necessary.
2. Invert a rimmed baking sheet and cover with parchment paper. Using a generous tablespoon, form mixture into 24 cakes, each 11/2 inches in diameter and 1/2 inch thick. Place each finished cake on baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and chill at least 30 minutes. (Can be refrigerated up to 24 hours.)
3. While cakes are chilling, combine all ingredients for sauce in small bowl. Cover and refrigerate to blend flavors, at least 30 minutes and up to 2 days.
4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 200 degrees. Line a baking sheet with double thickness of paper towels. Put flour on plate or in a pie tin. Lightly dredge half the crab cakes, knocking off excess.
5. Meanwhile, heat heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet over medium-high heat for 4 minutes. Add 3 tablespoons oil and lay floured cakes gently in skillet; pan-fry until outside is crisp and brown, 11/2 to 2 minutes. (Flour remaining cakes while first batch is browning.) Using a metal spatula, turn cakes. Sauté until second side is crisp and brown, 11/2 to 2 minutes. Transfer finished cakes to baking sheet lined with paper towels and place sheet in oven.
6. Pour off fat from hot skillet and wipe clean with paper towels. Return skillet to heat, add remaining 3 tablespoons oil, and heat 1 minute. Add remaining cakes and pan-fry as above. Serve hot with dipping sauce.
Steamed Shrimp Wontons with Thai Dipping Sauce
makes 24 pieces
NOTE:
You can make the shrimp filling one day ahead but should assemble the wontons as close to serving time as possible or the filling will weep. Look for wonton wrappers in the refrigerator case of your supermarket. The dipping sauce becomes more flavorful if prepared a day in advance.
Shrimp Wontons
1/2 pound raw medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 teaspoon grated or finely minced fresh gingerroot
1 medium garlic clove, chopped
1 medium scallion, thinly sliced
2 teaspoons Asian chili paste
1 large egg white
24 square wonton wrappers
Thai Dipping Sauce
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1 large garlic clove, thinly sliced
1/2 small carrot, peeled and coarsely grated
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place shrimp, ginger, garlic, scallion, chili paste, and egg white in food processor and process until well blended, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.
2. Mix all ingredients for sauce together in small bowl. Set aside for at least 10 minutes or up to 1 day for flavors to develop.
3. Follow figures 20, 21 and 22 to shape wontons. Spray a collapsible steamer basket with vegetable spray. Fill large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed stockpot with enough water to reach bottom of basket. Bring to simmer over medium-low heat and lower basket into kettle. Arrange 12 wontons 1/2 inch apart in basket. Increase heat to high, cover, and steam until dumplings are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Remove wontons from steamer basket and repeat with remaining wontons. Serve with dipping sauce.
Figure 20.
Position a square wonton wrapper with one point facing you. Place 2 teaspoons of filling in the center. Fold the wrapper in half to form a triangle. Press to seal edges.
Figure 21.
Fold the long edge containing the filling over, leaving the top of the triangle exposed by about half an inch.
Figure 22.
Moisten the underside of the right point, then bring the two points together, right over left, to overlap, away from the tip of the triangle. Pinch the points together to seal the dumpling.
EGG APPETIZERS
TWO KINDS OF EGG DISHES MAKE SENSE AS appetizers. Deviled eggs start with hard-boiled eggs that have been halved. The yolks are removed, enriched and seasoned, and then piped back into the empty whites. The key to perfect hard-boiled eggs is removing the pan from the heat as soon as the water comes to a boil and then letting the eggs steep, covered, in the hot water for exactly 10 minutes.
The other main type of egg appetizer is a fully cooked, flat omelet, which is called a tortilla in Spain or a frittata in Italy. These thick egg "cakes" can be sliced into wedges or cut into bite-sized squares. They can be served hot or at room temperature, making them ideal for entertaining.
Deviled Eggs
makes 8 pieces
NOTE:
In some eggs, the yolks set very close to the bottom of the whites and it is difficult to remove the yolks and still keep the whites in tact as a serving vessel. For this reason, we boil five eggs, using the yolks from all five but discarding the white from one egg, figuring that one egg is likely to have this problem.
You may double or triple this recipe as long as you use a pot large enough to hold the eggs in a single layer, covered by an inch of water. The eggs can be boiled one day in advance. After piping in the egg yolk mixture, however, they can be refrigerated for only up to two hours before serving.
5 large eggs
1 tablespoon mayonnaise
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
1/8 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
Dash Tabasco sauce
2 teaspoons minced fresh chives
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place eggs in medium saucepan, cover with 1 inch water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Remove pan from heat, cover, and let stand for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, fill a medium bowl with 1 quart cold water and 1 tray of ice cubes (or equivalent).
2. Transfer eggs to ice water bath with slotted spoon; let sit 5 minutes. Following figures 23 and 24, peel eggs and then slice in half lengthwise. Remove yolks and place in small bowl. Place whites on platter, discarding two halves that look the worst, and set aside.
3. Mash yolks with fork until no large lumps remain. Add mayonnaise, butter, mustard, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, and Tabasco, and blend with wooden spoon until well mixed.
4. Fit pastry bag with medium star tip. Fill pastry bag with egg yolk mixture. Pipe yolk mixture into reserved egg halves, mounding filling slightly above egg halves (see figure 25). Sprinkle 1/4 teaspoon chives over each egg half. Serve.
Figure 23.
Tap the egg all over against the counter surface, then roll it gently back and forth a few times on the counter to crack the shell all over.
Figure 24.
Begin peeling from the air pocket end (the wider end) of the egg. The shell should come off in spiral strips attached to a thin membrane.
Figure 25.
A pastry bag fitted with a star tip makes the most attractive deviled eggs. If you don't own a pastry bag, spoon the yolk mixture into a sealable plastic bag. Snip a small piece from one bottom corner of the bag and then gently squeeze the filling through the hole into the egg halves.
Spanish Omelet
makes 12 or more pieces
NOTE:
This dish, called tortilla espanola, is a thick, golden brown cake of eggs, potatoes, and onions. Serve with some sliced Spanish ham (called serrano), a hunk of manchego cheese, and a bowl of olives to make a traditional tapas.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 small garlic cloves, minced
12 ounces red potatoes, thinly sliced
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil in 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Swirl skillet to distribute oil evenly over bottom and sides. Add onion; sauté until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Add garlic, sauté until fragrant but not colored, about 1 minute. Transfer onion mixture to medium bowl and reserve.
2. Still over medium heat, add remaining tablespoon oil to skillet and swirl to distribute evenly. Add potatoes, toss to coat potatoes with oil, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are tender, 13 to 15 minutes. Transfer potatoes to bowl with onions. Add eggs and thyme, stirring to coat well; season with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Add entire mixture back to skillet over medium heat. Stir lightly with fork until eggs start to set. Once bottom is firm, lift omelet edge so that uncooked egg runs underneath. Continue cooking about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until egg on top is no longer runny, about 8 minutes.
4. Cover skillet with a large buttered plate and carefully flip the omelet out. Gently slide omelet back into pan, cooked side up, and cook until completely set and golden brown, about 4 to 5 minutes longer. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen omelet; slide onto serving plate. Cut into thin wedges or 1-inch squares, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately or at room temperature.
Figure 26.
Once the bottom of the omelet or frittata is firm, use a thin spatula to lift the edge closest to you. Tilt the skillet slightly toward you so that uncooked egg runs underneath. Return the skillet to level position and swirl gently to distribute the uncooked egg.
Asparagus Frittata with Mint and Parmesan
makes 12 or more pieces
NOTE:
An Italian frittata is similar to a Spanish omelet, but the texture is lighter and fluffier. Putting the frittata under the broiler (rather than flipping it) helps create this texture. Blanch the asparagus in salted water until crisp-tender, about 11/2 to 2 minutes.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil or unsalted butter
1 shallot, minced
1 tablespoon minced fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1/3 pound asparagus, tough ends snapped off and discarded; spears cut into 1-inch pieces and blanched until crisp-tender
5 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
6 large eggs, lightly beaten
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Heat oil or butter in 10-inch nonstick, ovenproof skillet over medium heat. Swirl skillet to distribute evenly over pan bottom and sides. Add shallot and sauté until softened, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in mint, parsley, and asparagus; toss asparagus to coat with oil. Spread in single layer.
3. Meanwhile, stir 3 tablespoons cheese, salt, and pepper into eggs. Pour mixture into skillet; stir lightly with fork until eggs start to set. Once bottom is firm, use thin spatula to lift frittata edge closest to you. Tilt skillet slightly toward you so that uncooked egg runs underneath (see figure 26). Continue cooking about 40 seconds, then lift edge again, repeating process until egg on top is no longer runny.
4. Sprinkle remaining 2 tablespoons cheese over frittata. Transfer skillet to oven; bake until frittata top is set and dry to touch, 2 to 4 minutes, making sure to remove frittata as soon as top is just set. Run spatula around skillet edge to loosen frittata; slide onto serving plate. Cut into thin wedges or 1-inch squares and serve immediately or at room temperature.
BREAD AND PASTRY APPETIZERS
THIS CHAPTER CONTAINS RECIPES FOR BRUSCHETTA, quesadillas, biscuits, and phyllo triangles. Bruschetta is an Italian appetizer that starts with slices of broiled or grilled country bread that are rubbed with garlic, brushed with olive oil, and topped with everything from chopped tomatoes to olive paste. The quesadilla comes from Mexico and is a hot "sandwich" made with two tortillas. This tortilla sandwich is usually filled with cheese (and other ingredients) and cut into narrow wedges for serving.
Biscuits are an all-American favorite. For use as an appetizer, they need to be cut quite small. In our recipe, we split and fill the biscuits with ham and cheese after they have been baked.
This chapter ends with a recipe for phyllo triangles. In our testing, we found that phyllo must be slowly brought to room temperature to prevent sticking or cracking. This means thawing phyllo (which is almost always purchased frozen) overnight in the refrigerator and then bringing it to room temperature in the box. To keep phyllo from cracking, keep sheets in a stack between two barely damp cloths until you need them.
Master Recipe
Bruschetta with Fresh Herbs
makes 16 small slices
NOTE:
This is the simplest bruschetta, but delicious. The variations are slightly more complicated.
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme or oregano leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh sage leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
1 loaf country bread (about 12 by 5 inches), cut lengthwise in half and sliced crosswise into
1-inch-thick pieces (ends saved for another use)
1 large garlic clove, peeled
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to highest position and heat broiler.
2. Mix oil, herbs, and salt and pepper to taste in small bowl. Set aside.
3. Place bread on large baking sheet; broil bread until golden brown on both sides. Place toast slices on large platter, rub garlic over tops, brush with herb oil, and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Bruschetta with Tomatoes and Basil
Combine 4 medium ripe tomatoes (about 12/3 pounds), cored and cut into 1/2-inch dice, with 1/3 cup shredded fresh basil leaves and salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl and set aside.
Follow master recipe, reducing oil to 3 tablespoons and omitting parsley, thyme, and sage. Once toasts have been broiled, rubbed with garlic, and brushed with oil, use slotted spoon to divide tomato mixture among toast slices and serve immediately.
Bruschetta with Black Olive Paste
Process 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 11/2 cups pitted kalamata olives, 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary leaves, 2 tablespoons shredded fresh basil leaves, 1 tablespoon rinsed capers, and 4 rinsed anchovy fillets in food processor, scraping down sides with rubber spatula, until mixture is finely minced and forms a chunky paste, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl and set aside.
Follow master recipe, reducing oil to 3 tablespoons and omitting parsley, thyme, and sage. Once toasts have been broiled, rubbed with garlic, and brushed with oil, use a small spoon to spread olive paste lightly over toasts and serve immediately.
Avocado and Cheese Quesadilla
makes 8 pieces
NOTE:
We find that an electric knife is the best tool for cutting a quesadilla into wedges. Serve as is or with a little Classic Red Table Salsa.
2 soft, 8-inch flour tortillas
1 medium ripe Haas avocado, halved, pitted, flesh removed and coarsely chopped
1/2 small garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon lime juice
Salt and ground black pepper
3 thin slices red onion
2 ounces pepper Jack cheese, coarsely grated
Nonstick cooking spray
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. If tortillas are uneven in size, trim them with a scissors to match.
2. Combine avocado, garlic, cilantro, and lime juice in small bowl and mash coarsely with fork. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Spread mixture evenly over one tortilla, leaving 1/2-inch border around circumference free. Arrange onion slices over avocado and sprinkle with cheese, leaving 1/2-inch border. Place second tortilla over cheese and press slightly to position.
3. Heat 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat for 2 minutes. Coat top tortilla with vegetable spray and place quesadilla, greased side down, into pan. Cook until golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes. Coat top tortilla with vegetable spray. Using a wide metal spatula, flip quesadilla in pan. Cook until second side is golden brown and crisp, about 2 minutes more.
4. Transfer quesadilla with metal spatula to small baking sheet and place in oven until hot throughout, about 3 minutes, flipping once halfway through. Cut into 8 wedges and serve immediately.
Cheddar Biscuits with Ham and Swiss
makes about 30 pieces
NOTE:
These biscuits are best served at once, though they may be wrapped and refrigerated for a day, then reheated for a few minutes in a 350-degree oven. Assemble just before serving.
Cheddar Biscuits
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for work surface
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
3 tablespoons chilled vegetable shortening
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese (about 4 ounces)
3/4 cup cold milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
Ham and Cheese Filling
5 tablespoons honey mustard
1 pound thinly sliced ham, cut into 3-inch lengths
1/2 pound thinly sliced Swiss cheese, cut into 1-inch pieces
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust rack to center position and heat oven to 450 degrees.
2. Pulse together flour, baking powder, and salt in food processor. Add chilled butter and shortening; process until mixture resembles dry oatmeal. Transfer to large bowl. Add cheese and toss lightly with rubber spatula or fork. Stir in milk until dry ingredients are just moistened. Let dough rest for 1 minute, then transfer to a well-floured work surface.
3. Pat dough into a rough 6 by 10-inch rectangle. Using a lightly floured 11/2-inch biscuit cutter, stamp out dough rounds, cutting them close together. Dip cutter into flour before each new cut. Push scraps of dough together so that their edges join, and firmly pinch edges with fingertips to seal. Pat dough into small rectangle and cut more biscuits. (You should have about 30 altogether.) Place dough rounds 11/2 inches apart on two ungreased baking sheets. (Baking sheets may be covered with plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 3 hours.)
4. Brush dough rounds with melted butter. Bake until biscuits are lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool slightly on wire rack until just warm. Split each biscuit in half. Arrange bottom halves on platter. Spread 1/2 teaspoon mustard on each biscuit half. Loosely arrange a slice of ham over mustard, then place a piece of cheese on top of ham. Set tops of biscuits in place and serve.
Phyllo Triangles
makes 24 pieces
NOTE:
For this recipe, thaw a 1-pound box of phyllo (which has about 20 sheets) in the refrigerator overnight. Let the boxed phyllo come to room temperature on the counter for 2 hours. The triangles can be made several weeks in advance and frozen on a baking sheet. When ready to bake, take the triangles straight from the freezer and bake as directed, increasing the time by 10 or 15 minutes.
Sausage and Cheese Filling
1/4 pound ground sweet Italian sausage
1/4 pound ground turkey or veal
1 large egg yolk
1 tablespoon bread crumbs
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons grated provolone cheese
2 tablespoons ricotta cheese
1 medium garlic clove, chopped
Goat Cheese and Olive Filling
8 ounces goat cheese, at room temperature
8 black olives, pitted and chopped
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted and chopped
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1 medium garlic clove, minced
Pinch salt
16 sheets frozen phyllo dough (about 13 ounces), thawed and brought to room temperature
1/2 pound (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. If making sausage and cheese filling, process all ingredients in food processor until well blended, about 1 minute. Transfer to small bowl and refrigerate until needed. If making goat cheese and olive filling, use rubber spatula to combine all ingredients in small bowl and refrigerate until needed. (Both fillings can be refrigerated up to 1 day.)
2. Remove phyllo from box and place on barely damp kitchen cloth. Cover with barely damp cloth and then a dry cloth to prevent phyllo from drying out.
3. Adjust oven racks to upper-middle and lower-middle positions and heat oven to 425 degrees. Following figures 27, 28 and 29, assemble triangles. Place triangles seam-side down and about 1 inch apart on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Freeze for 10 minutes.
4. Brush each triangle top with 1 teaspoon of remaining butter. Bake until golden brown, for a total of 13 to 15 minutes, switching position of baking sheets halfway through cooking. Remove baking sheets from oven and cool triangles on sheets for 5 minutes. Serve immediately.
Figure 27.
Brush a phyllo sheet with 11/2 teaspoons melted butter. Place a second sheet of phyllo directly on top of the first sheet and brush it with 11/2 teaspoons of butter. Cut sheets lengthwise to make three long doubled strips of phyllo, each about 4 inches wide. Fold each strip in half lengthwise.
Figure 28.
Place 2 level teaspoons of filling on the corner of one strip and fold up the phyllo to form a right-angled triangle.
Figure 29.
Continue folding up and over, flag-folding style, until you reach the end of the strip. Repeat figures 28 and 29 with remaining two strips of phyllo. Once you have made three triangles, start over again with two new pieces of phyllo and repeat figures 27, 28 and 29.
POPCORN AND NUTS
SPICED NUTS ARE A PARTY FAVORITE. MOST recipes calls for a heavy sugar syrup, which leaves the nuts very sticky. Another popular option is to sauté the nuts in butter, but we found that this method dulls the finish of the nuts and makes them taste oily. After testing some alternatives, we decided to coat the nuts in a light glaze made from very small amounts of liquid, sugar, and butter. This treatment leaves the nuts shiny and just tacky enough for a dry spice coating to stick perfectly, giving the nuts a beautiful appearance and excellent flavor.
Making flavored popcorn is even easier. Simply cook seasonings in a little melted butter to bring out their flavor and then toss with hot, fresh popcorn.
Cajun Popcorn
makes 3 quarts
NOTE:
To pop the corn needed for this recipe, heat a wok over medium-high heat for 4 minutes, add 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, and 1/2 cup popcorn kernels. Cover, then cook, shaking constantly, until kernels stop popping, 21/2 to 3 minutes.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 quarts plain freshly popped popcorn
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine all ingredients except popcorn in small saucepan and cook over medium-low heat until butter has melted and mixture begins to foam, 2 to 3 minutes. Cover and set aside to keep warm.
2. Place hot popcorn in large bowl, drizzle with butter mixture, and toss until evenly coated. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Warm-Spiced Pecans with Rum Glaze
Makes about 2 cups
NOTE:
Store spiced nuts in an airtight container for up to 5 days.
2 cups raw pecan halves (8 ounces)
Warm Spice Mix
2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
Rum Glaze
1 tablespoon rum, preferably dark
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and spread nuts in even layer. Toast 4 minutes, rotate pan, and continue toasting until fragrant, about 4 minutes. Transfer baking sheet to wire rack.
2. Stir together ingredients for spice mix in medium bowl and set aside.
3. Bring rum, vanilla, sugar, and butter to a boil in medium saucepan, whisking constantly. Stir in toasted nuts and cook, stirring constantly with wooden spoon, until nuts are shiny and almost all liquid has evaporated, about 11/2 minutes. Transfer nuts to bowl with spice mix and toss to coat well. Return nuts to parchment-lined baking sheet to cool.
VARIATION:
Mexican-Spiced Almonds, Peanuts, and Pumpkin Seeds
Following recipe for Warm-Spiced Pecans with Rum Glaze, replace pecans with 11/4 cups sliced almonds, 2/3 cup roasted unsalted peanuts, and 1/4 cup raw pumpkin seeds. Toast almonds for 4 minutes, then add peanuts and pumpkin seeds to baking sheet and toast 4 minutes longer.
Replace Warm Spice Mix with 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon, 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/8 teaspoon cayenne, and 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder. Replace rum and vanilla with 2 tablespoons water.
SALAD BASICS
MAKING SALAD IS ONE OF THE MOST CREATIVE culinary pursuits. Baking requires that the cook follow directions precisely. Roasting a chicken or cooking pasta also demands a high level of attention to detail. But salad making allows for a fair amount of improvisation. Watercress can be substituted for arugula, which in turn can be substituted for dandelion greens or mizuna. If you like bell peppers, cucumbers, or tomatoes, they can be added to almost any salad.
Salad making is creative, but there are some broad guidelines that must be followed to achieve optimal results.
SHOP CAREFULLY. Most greens have a short shelf-life, so it's especially important to buy specimens that look healthy at the market. Greens with stems and roots will stay fresher longer and should be purchased when possible. Also, look for any rot among bunches as you shop. Decay can spread quickly and it's best to avoid greens on which this process has already begun. If you get greens home and notice a few slimy leaves, pick them out immediately rather than waiting until you make salad. If you wait, the rot may well have spread throughout the bunch.
KEEP CRISP. Because they are mostly water, greens should be stored in the crisper drawer of the refrigerator, where the humidity is the highest. But while moist air will help prolong their freshness, excessive amounts of water won't. Therefore, don't wash lettuces until you are ready to use them and drain off any standing water in bags before refrigerating greens.
WASH AND DRY THOROUGHLY. Because they grow in such close proximity to the ground, salad greens are often quite sandy. Thorough washing in a deep bowl or sink filled with cold water is a must. Swish the greens in the water to loosen any sand. Once the bottom of bowl is free of grit (you may need to drain the bowl and add clean water several times), dry greens in a salad spinner and then use paper or kitchen towels to blot off any remaining moisture. It's imperative to remove all visible moisture. Dressing will slide off damp greens and pool up at the bottom of the salad bowl. Washed and dried greens can be refrigerated in a dry zipper-lock bag for several hours.
DON'T TEAR UNTIL READY TO EAT. While whole leaves can be washed and dried in advance, do not tear lettuces until ready to dress the salad. Tearing the leaves leads to oxidation and browning in delicate greens. Whatever you do, don't take a knife to salad greens. The more violently they are cut, the quicker they will brown. Gentle tearing of large leaves by hand is best.
DRESS GREENS LIGHTLY. Nothing is worse than a limp, soggy salad with too much dressing. Dressed greens should glisten. We find that 1/4 cup of vinaigrette is sufficient to dress 2 quarts of salad greens, enough for four servings. We lightly pack a 4-cup plastic measure to portion out greens.
SERVE IMMEDIATELY. Once a salad is dressed, the clock is ticking. Waiting even 15 minutes to eat the salad may cause some loss in freshness and crispness. The longer salad greens sit under a coating of a dressing, the less appetizing they become as the salt in the dressing draws moisture out of the greens and causes them to become limp.
GLOSSARY OF SALAD GREENS
The following list starts with the four main varieties of lettuce and then covers the most commonly available specialty greens. When substituting one green for another, try to choose greens with a similar intensity. For example, peppery arugula could be used as a substitute for watercress or dandelion greens, but not for red leaf lettuce, at least not without significantly altering the flavor of the salad. Figures 1 through 4 offer some general guidelines on substitutions.
BUTTERHEAD LETTUCES: Boston and Bibb are the two most common varieties of these very mild-tasting lettuces. A head of butterhead lettuce has a nice round shape and loose outer leaves. The color of the leaves is light to medium green (except, of course, in red-tinged varieties) and the leaves are extremely tender.
LOOSELEAF LETTUCES: Red leaf, green leaf, red oak, and lolla rossa are the most common varieties. These lettuces grow in a loose rosette shape, not a tight head. The ruffled leaves are green at the base and magenta toward the top in red varieties. These lettuces are the perhaps most versatile because their texture is soft yet still a bit crunchy and their flavor is mild but not bland.
ROMAINE LETTUCE: The leaves on this lettuce are long and broad at the top. The color shades from dark green in outer leaves (which are often tough and should be discarded) to pale green in the thick, crisp heart. Also called Cos lettuce, this variety has more crunch than either butterhead or looseleaf lettuces and a more pronounced earthy flavor. Romaine lettuce is essential in Caesar salad, when the greens must stand up to a thick, creamy dressing.
ICEBERG LETTUCE: Iceberg is the best known variety of crisphead lettuce. Its shape is perfectly round and the leaves are tightly packed. A high water content makes iceberg especially crisp and crunchy, but also robs it of flavor.
ARUGULA: Also called rocket, this tender, dark green leaf can be faintly peppery or downright spicy. Larger, older leaves tend to be hotter than small, young leaves, but the flavor is variable, so taste arugula before adding it to a salad. Try to buy arugula in bunches with the stems and roots still attached—they help keep the leaves fresh. Arugula bruises and discolors quite easily. Try to keep stemmed leaves whole. Very large leaves can be torn just before they are needed.
WATERCRESS: With its small leaves and long, thick stalks, watercress is easy to spot. It requires some patience in the kitchen because the stalks are really quite tough and must be removed one at a time. The leaves are usually mildly spicy, like arugula.
DANDELION GREENS: Dandelion greens are tender and pleasantly bitter. The leaves are long and have ragged edges. The flavor is similar to that of arugula or watercress, both of which can be used interchangeably with dandelion. Note that tougher, older leaves that are more than several inches long should be cooked and not used raw in salads.
MIZUNA: This Japanese spider mustard has long, thin, dark green leaves with deeply cut jagged edges. Sturdier than arugula, watercress, or dandelion, it can nonetheless be used interchangeably with these slightly milder greens in salads when a strong peppery punch is desired. Note that larger, older leaves are better cooked, so choose small "baby" mizuna for salads.
TATSOI: This Asian green has thin white stalks and round, dark green leaves. A member of the crucifer family of vegetables that includes broccoli and cabbages, tatsoi tastes like a mild Chinese cabbage, especially bok choy. However, the texture of these miniature leaves is always delicate.
RADICCHIO: This most familiar chicory was almost unknown in this country two decades ago. The tight heads of purple leaves streaked with prominent white ribs are now a supermarket staple. Radicchio has a decent punch but is not nearly as bitter as other chicories, especially Belgian endive.
BELGIAN ENDIVE: With its characteristic bitter chicory flavor, endive is generally used sparingly in salads. Unlike its cousin radicchio, endive is crisp and crunchy, not tender and leafy. The yellow leaf tips are usually mild-flavored, while the white, thick leaf bases are more bitter. Endive is the one salad green we routinely cut rather than tear. Remove whole leaves from the head and then slice crosswise into bite-sized pieces.
CHICORY: Chicory, or curly endive, has curly, cut leaves that form a loose head that resembles a sunburst. The leaves are bright green and their flavor is usually fairly bitter. The outer leaves can be somewhat tough, especially at the base. Inner leaves are generally more tender.
ESCAROLE: Escarole has smooth, broad leaves bunched together in a loose head. With its long ribs and softly ruffled leaves, it looks a bit like leaf lettuce. As a member of the chicory family, the flavor can be intense, although not nearly as strong as that of endive or chicory.
FRISÉE: This spiky, miniature green has a nutty, almost buttery flavor as well as the characteristic bitterness of all chicories. Although the leaves are quite thin, they are not as soft as they seem and provide a fairly good crunch.
SPINACH: Of all the cooking greens, this one is the most versatile in salads because it can be used in its miniature or full-grown form. Flat-leaf spinach is better than curly-leaf spinach in salads because the stems are usually less fibrous and the spade-shaped leaves are thinner, more tender, and sweeter. Curly spinach is often dry and chewy, while flat-leaf spinach, sold in bundles rather than in cellophane bags, is usually tender and moist, more like lettuce than a cooking green.
BABY COOKING GREENS: Miniature versions of chard, beet greens, turnip greens, and kale are often sold separately by the pound at supermarkets or used in salad mixes like mesclun. The white-or red-veined leaves are easy to spot. The flavor is much milder than that of full-sized cooking greens.
Figure 1.
Tender, mild leaf lettuces are the most commonly available salad greens. Although they can be used alone, they work well when mixed with stronger-tasting greens. Lettuces from left to right, red leaf, iceberg, Boston, and Romaine.
Figure 2.
Tender, peppery dark greens add punch to any salad. They are often mixed with milder greens, but can stand alone in refreshing palate-cleansing salads. From left to right, watercress, dandelion, arugula, tatsoi, and mizuna.
Figure 3.
The chicory family includes many different-looking salad greens. Most are somewhat bitter and crunchy. From left to right, radicchio, Belgian endive, chicory, escarole, and frisée.
Figure 4.
Sturdier "cooking" greens are often used in salads. Full-sized leaves of spinach, the mildest and most tender of these greens, can be used in salads, as well as baby spinach. Otherwise, only very young leaves such as baby beet and chard greens are appropriate in salads. From left to right, baby spinach, baby red Swiss chard, baby kale, baby broccoli rabe, baby carrot tops, and baby beet greens.
DRESSINGS
THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF COLD SAUCES typically used to dress salads. Vinaigrette is a relatively thin emulsion made of oil, vinegar, and seasonings. Mayonnaise is a thick, creamy emulsion of egg yolk and oil with a little acid and some seasonings.
An emulsion is a mixture of two things that don't ordinarily mix, such as oil and water, or oil and vinegar. The only way to mix them is to stir or whisk so strenuously that the two ingredients break down into tiny droplets. Many of these droplets will continue to find each other and recoalesce into pure fluid. (This is what happens when the emulsion breaks.) Eventually one of the fluids (usually the less plentiful one) will break entirely into droplets so tiny that they remain separated by the opposite fluid, at least temporarily.
The liquid in the droplet form is called the dispersed phase because the droplets are dispersed throughout the emulsion. The liquid that surrounds the droplets is the continuous phase. Because the continuous phase forms the surface of the emulsion, that's what the mouth and tongue feel and taste first.
Vinaigrette is the most common dressing for salads, used with leafy greens as well as vegetables, grains, and beans. While it is possible to dress a salad with oil and then vinegar, the results are quite different when these ingredients are combined before being poured over greens.
To demonstrate this difference, try this test. Dress a simple green salad first with oil, then a mixture of vinegar, salt, and pepper. The result will be harsh, with an extremely prominent vinegar bite. Next, take another batch of greens and the same dressing ingredients. Mix the salt and pepper into the vinegar and then whisk in the oil until the dressing is translucent. When this emulsified dressing is poured over greens, the flavor will be smoother with a greater emphasis on the oil.
The science of emulsions explains why the same ingredients can taste so different. In the first oil-then-vinegar salad, the oil and vinegar don't mix, so both race up the tongue. The less viscous vinegar wins, hence this salad taste more acidic. In the emulsion, the oil is whipped into tiny molecules that surround dispersed droplets of vinegar. The oil is the continuous phase and is tasted first. Your tongue is coated with fat droplets that cushion the impact of the acid.
The correct ratio of oil to vinegar is open to much discussion and can depend on the acidity of the vinegar as well as the flavor of the oil. In general, we prefer a ratio of four parts oil to one part acid, but this can vary, especially when using citrus juices and rice wine vinegar, which are much less acidic than common vinegars.
In terms of forming a vinaigrette, either a fork or small whisk will generate the whipping action necessary to break up the oil into small droplets. With either tool, the emulsion will break rather quickly so rewhisk the dressing just before pouring it over salad greens. We found that adding the salt and pepper to the vinegar is best because the vinegar mutes these flavors a bit and prevents them from becoming too overpowering. On the other hand, we prefer to add herbs and some other seasonings to the finished dressing to maximize their impact.
Mayonnaise is used to dress vegetable salads—especially potato salad and coleslaw. It acts as a creamy binder and adds richness to any salad. The science of mayonnaise is fairly complex and unusual. Whisking transforms three thin liquids—vegetable oil, lemon juice, and egg yolk—into a thick, creamy sauce. In this sauce, the egg yolk and lemon juice are the continuous phase (that's why something that is 95 percent oil doesn't taste greasy) and the oil is the dispersed phase that must be broken into tiny droplets.
Mayonnaise works because an egg yolk is such a good emulsifier and stabilizer. But sometimes mayonnaise can "break," as the ingredients revert back to their original liquid form. To keep mayonnaise from breaking, it is first necessary to whisk the egg yolk and lemon juice thoroughly (the egg yolk itself contains liquid and fat materials that must be emulsified). It is equally important to add the oil slowly to the egg yolk. Remember, two tablespoons of yolk and lemon juice must be "stretched" around 3/4 cup of oil.
In terms of oil, we like the flavor of corn oil in our basic mayonnaise. It produces a dressing that is rich and eggy with good body. Canola oil makes a slightly lighter, more lemony mayo. We find that extra-virgin olive oil can be harsh and bitter, especially if used alone in mayonnaise. Pure olive oil produces a mellower mayonnaise but is more costly than corn or canola oil and does not deliver better results.
While homemade mayonnaise is a delicious addition to salads, many cooks prefer the convenience and safety of commercial brands made without raw eggs. In our tasting of major brands, Hellmann's came out on top. Among light or reduced-calorie brands, Hellmann's again beat out Kraft, which is its main competition in the marketplace.
GLOSSARY OF OILS AND VINEGARS
The following oils and vinegars are used in recipes throughout this book. To keep oils from becoming rancid, store bottles in a cool, dark pantry and buy small quantities that will be used up within a few months. Storing oils in the refrigerator will prolong their freshness.
EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: This is our standard choice for most salads. In blind tastings, we could not tell the difference between extra-virgin oil that cost $10 per liter and $80 per liter. However, cheaper pure and "light" oils are characterless and decidedly inferior in salads, although they may be fine for some cooking. An inexpensive supermarket extra-virgin oil, such as Berio or Colavita, is our recommendation for salads.
WALNUT OIL: This oil has a warm, nutty flavor that works well in salads with fruits and/or toasted nuts. Like other nut oils, walnut oil tends to go rancid quickly and is best stored in the refrigerator.
ASIAN SESAME OIL: With its dark brown color and rich aroma, toasted sesame oil adds a distinctive Asian flavor to salad dressings. Use it in moderation. More than a tablespoon or so will overwhelm other ingredients.
CANOLA OIL: This bland oil is best used to soften a particularly strong oil, especially sesame or walnut. Alone, its flavor is unremarkable. But in combination with a potent nut or seed oil, canola can be part of a good dressing.
RED WINE VINEGAR: Red wine vinegar is the most versatile choice in salads. Its flavor is sharp but clean. Domestic brands tend to have an acidity around 5 percent, while imported red brands often contain as much as 7 percent. In our tasting of red wine vinegars, Heinz beat other domestic brands as well as imports, some of which cost ten times as much.
WHITE WINE VINEGAR: Similar to red wine vinegar but often not quite as complex. Our choice when a pink vinaigrette made with red wine vinegar might seem odd.
BALSAMIC VINEGAR: A rich, sweet, oaky vinegar that is best used in combination with red wine vinegar in salads. Real balsamic vinegar is aged many years and costs at least $10 per bottle. Cheap supermarket versions are nothing more than caramel-colored red wine vinegar. They are usually harsh and unpleasant tasting. Given the small quantities of balsamic vinegar needed to transform a salad, it's worth investing in the real thing. In our tasting, we liked vinegars from Cavalli, Fiorucci, Fini, and Masserie di Sant'Eramo.
SHERRY VINEGAR: This Spanish vinegar is usually quite strong (often with 7 percent acidity) but has a rich, oaky, nutty flavor.
CITRUS JUICES: Orange, lime, and lemon juices can all be used in salad dressing. They add acidity as well as flavor. Lemon and lime juices are more acidic and can stand on their own. Orange juice is usually combined with vinegar. To add more citrus flavor without disturbing the ratio of acid to oil, stir in some grated zest.
RICE WINE VINEGAR: A natural choice in Asian dressings, this low-acidity (about 4.5 percent), clear vinegar is quite mild. Use it when you want to keep acidity in check but want to avoid the distinctive flavor of citrus juices.
Master Recipe
Classic Vinaigrette
NOTE: Salt and pepper are mixed first with the vinegar for subtlety. If you like, you can adjust the seasonings after the salad has been dressed by sprinkling additional salt and/or pepper directly onto the greens. The Master Recipe makes about 1/2 cup, enough to dress 4 quarts (or eight servings) of leafy salad. Extra dressing can be refrigerated for up to a week. Variations that contain fresh herbs should be used within several hours for maximum freshness.
11/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Combine vinegar, salt, and pepper in bowl with fork. Add oil, then whisk or mix with fork until smooth, about 30 seconds. The dressing will separate after 5 or 10 minutes, so use immediately or cover and refrigerate for several days and mix again before tossing with greens.
VARIATIONS:
Mediterranean Vinaigrette
Replace vinegar with 21/4 teaspoons lemon juice, increase pepper to 1/4 teaspoon, and decrease oil to 4 tablespoons. Whisk 1 tablespoon drained and minced capers, 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves, 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves, and 1 medium garlic clove, minced fine, into finished dressing.
Balsamic Vinaigrette
Reduce red wine vinegar to 11/2 teaspoons and combine with 11/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar.
Walnut Vinaigrette
Replace vinegar with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and replace olive oil with 4 tablespoons canola oil mixed with 2 tablespoons walnut oil.
Mixed Herb Vinaigrette
Add 1 tablespoon minced fresh basil leaves, 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh parsley leaves, and 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano leaves to finished dressing. Use dressing within several hours for optimum freshness.
Shallot Vinaigrette
Add 1 tablespoon minced shallot to vinegar, salt, and pepper. Let stand 10 minutes. Whisk in oil and use dressing within several hours for optimum freshness.
Basil-Curry Vinaigrette
Replace red wine vinegar with 11/2 tablespoons each lemon juice and white wine vinegar. Combine lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper with 1/2 teaspoon curry powder and 11/2 teaspoons honey. Reduce oil to 4 tablespoons. Whisk 3 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves into finished dressing. Use dressing within several hours for optimum freshness.
Creamy Vinaigrette
Replace red wine vinegar with 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar. Combine vinegar, salt, and pepper with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and 2 teaspoons Dijon-style mustard. Reduce oil to 4 tablespoons. Whisk 2 tablespoons sour cream or plain yogurt into finished dressing. This recipe yields 2/3 cup dressing.
Orange-Sesame Vinaigrette
Replace red wine vinegar with 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar. Combine vinegar, salt, and pepper with 1 teaspoon grated orange zest, 2 tablespoons orange juice, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot. Replace olive oil with 4 tablespoons canola oil mixed with 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil. This recipe yields 2/3 cup dressing.
Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette
Replace red wine vinegar with 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar. Increase salt to 1/2 teaspoon and pepper to 1/4 teaspoon. Combine vinegar, salt, and pepper with 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard and 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves. Whisk in oil and use dressing within several hours for optimum freshness. This recipe yields 2/3 cup dressing.
Orange Vinaigrette
Decrease red wine vinegar to 2 teaspoons. Combine vinegar, salt, and pepper with 1 teaspoon minced orange zest and 4 tablespoons orange juice. Increase olive oil to 1/2 cup. This recipe yields 3/4 cup dressing.
Hoisin Vinaigrette
Replace red wine vinegar with 1/3 cup rice wine vinegar and omit salt and pepper. Combine vinegar with 11/2 tablespoons soy sauce, 3 tablespoons hoisin sauce, and 1 tablespoon minced fresh gingerroot. Replace olive oil with 3 tablespoons canola oil mixed with 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil. This recipe yields 3/4 cup dressing.
Figure 5.
Shallots add spark to many dressings. To keep them from overpowering other ingredients, they must be minced quite fine. Start by placing the peeled bulb flat side down on a work surface and slicing crosswise almost to (but not through) the root end.
Figure 7.
Finally, make very thin slices perpendicular to the lengthwise cuts made in figure 6.
Figure 8.
We have tested numerous methods for extracting as much juice as possible from lemons (and limes) and have devised the following method. Start by rolling the lemon on a hard surface, pressing down firmly with the palm of your hand.
Figure 9.
Cut the fruit in half and use a wooden reamer to extract the juice into a bowl. To catch the seeds, place a mesh strainer over the bowl.
Master Recipe
Homemade Mayonnaise
1 large egg yolk
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon white wine vinegar
3/4 cup corn oil
Master Instructions
1. Whisk egg yolk vigorously in medium bowl for 15 seconds. Add all remaining ingredients except for oil and whisk until yolk thickens and color brightens, about 30 seconds.
2. Add 1/4 cup oil in slow, steady stream, continuing to whisk vigorously until oil is incorporated completely and mixture thickens, about 1 minute. Add another 1/4 cup oil in the same manner, whisking until incorporated completely, about 30 seconds more. Add last 1/4 cup oil all at once and whisk until incorporated completely, about 30 seconds more. Serve. (Can be refrigerated in airtight container for several days.)
VARIATIONS:
Lemon Mayonnaise
Add 11/2 teaspoons grated lemon zest along with lemon juice.
Dijon Mayonnaise
Whisk 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard into finished mayonnaise.
Tarragon Mayonnaise
Stir 1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves into finished mayonnaise.
Food Processor Mayonnaise
Use 1 whole large egg and double quantities of other ingredients in Master Recipe. Pulse all ingredients except oil in workbowl of food processor fitted with metal blade three or four times to combine. With machine running, add oil in thin steady stream through open feed tube until incorporated completely. (If food pusher has small hole in bottom, pour oil into pusher and allow to drizzle down into machine while motor is running.) This recipe yields 11/2 cups mayonnaise.
Figure 10.
An easy way to drizzle oil into mayonnaise slowly and evenly is to punch a small hole in the bottom of a paper cup and use it to add the oil to the egg yolk and lemon juice.
Figure 11.
Pour the oil into the cup while holding your finger over the hole, then hold the cup above the bowl and remove your finger. To keep the bowl stable while whisking, set it on a wet dishcloth.
LEAFY SALADS
WHEN MAKING A LEAFY SALAD, CONSIDER how various greens will work together. There are times when you may want to use all tender lettuces and greens, such as Bibb and red oak. Other salads, especially those with chunky ingredients like sliced vegetables and fruits, cheese, or nuts, are better with a combination of tender and sturdier greens like arugula or radicchio.
In addition to texture, think about flavor. Balance peppery greens with mild greens, unless, of course, you are trying to create a very spicy salad that will served as a palate cleaner after a rich main course. Color should also be considered.
Master Recipe
Mixed Green Salad
1/2 medium garlic clove, peeled
2 quarts washed and dried mild salad greens, such as romaine, Boston, Bibb, or other leaf lettuces
1/4 cup Classic Vinaigrette or any variation (see Classic Vinaigrette)
1. Rub bottom and sides of large salad bowl (at least 4-quart) with garlic clove; discard garlic.
2. Place greens in large salad bowl. Drizzle dressing over greens and toss to coat. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Tri-Color Salad with Balsamic Vinaigrette
Dress 4 cups arugula, 1 small head radicchio, cored and leaves torn, and 2 small heads Belgian endives, stems trimmed and leaves cut crosswise into thirds, with 1/4 cup Balsamic Vinaigrette.
Asian Baby Greens with Orange-Sesame Vinaigrette
Dress 2 quarts baby spinach, mizuna, tatsoi, and/or other spicy Asian greens with 1/4 cup Orange-Sesame Vinaigrette.
Arugula Salad with Walnut Vinaigrette and Toasted Walnuts
Dress 2 quarts arugula and 3 tablespoons toasted and coarsely chopped walnuts with 1/4 cup Walnut Vinaigrette.
Figure 12.
To core and wash head lettuce simultaneously, rap the bottom of the head of lettuce sharply on the counter to loosen the core. Turn the head of lettuce over and pull out the core in one piece.
Figure 13.
Fill the hole left by the extracted core with water to rinse soil from the lettuce. Separate leaves, wash again if necessary, and dry.
Caesar Salad
NOTE:
Caesar dressing must be thick and smooth. Most recipes call for a raw egg, but we found that the dressing was thin with just one egg, and tended to separate when two were added. In the end, we found that coddling an egg (cooking it in the shell in simmering water for 45 seconds) releases its thickening powers and makes the creamiest, thickest Caesar dressing. Coddling does not kill any bacteria that may be present in eggs. See the variation on Caesar Salad with Eggless Dressing if you are concerned about eating raw eggs.
If you don't own a garlic press, chop the garlic for both the croutons and dressing by hand; sprinkle it with salt and then continue mincing until quite fine. The garlic and anchovies in the dressing are optional, but most modern cooks would find the salad a bit bland without them. This salad yields four first-course servings.
Garlic Croutons
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and put through a garlic press
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups 1/2-inch white bread cubes (from a baguette or country loaf)
Caesar Dressing
1 large egg
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon salt
8 grindings black pepper
1 small garlic clove, pressed (1/4 teaspoon)
4 flat anchovy fillets, minced fine (scant 11/2 teaspoons)
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium heads romaine lettuce (large outer leaves removed) or 2 large romaine hearts, washed, dried, and torn into 11/2-inch pieces (about 10 cups, lightly packed)
1/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. For croutons, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Mix garlic, salt, and oil in small bowl and set aside for 20 minutes. Spread bread cubes out over small baking sheet. Drizzle oil through fine-mesh strainer evenly onto bread and toss to coat. Bake until golden, about 12 minutes. Cool on baking sheet to room temperature. (Croutons can be stored in airtight container for 1 day.)
2. For dressing, bring several cups of water to boil in small saucepan. Carefully lower whole egg into water and cook for 45 seconds. Remove egg with slotted spoon. When cool enough to handle, crack egg into medium bowl. Add all other dressing ingredients except oil and whisk until smooth. Add oil in slow, steady stream, whisking constantly until smooth. Adjust seasonings. (Dressing may refrigerated in airtight container for 1 day; shake before using.)
3. Place lettuce in large bowl. Drizzle with half of dressing and toss to lightly coat leaves. Sprinkle with cheese, remaining dressing, and croutons and toss to coat evenly. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Caesar Salad with Eggless Dressing
Because coddled eggs are not cooked long enough to kill any bacteria that might be present in the eggs, we tested a number of alternatives for people concerned about eating raw eggs. To our surprise, bland and smooth tofu is the perfect substitute for a coddled egg because it does not have any of the grittiness or sulfurous smell of hard-boiled eggs, the solution suggested in most books.
Substitute 2 ounces soft tofu, drained and crumbled (about 1/3 cup), for egg. Process dressing ingredients except oil in food processor until smooth, about 1 minute. With motor running, add oil in slow, steady stream until smooth.
Grilled Chicken Caesar Salad
This salad serves four as a main course. Brush two boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 3/4 pound) with 1 tablespoon olive oil and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Grill or broil, turning once, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Cool chicken to room temperature and slice crosswise into 1/2-inch-wide strips. Add chicken to salad along with cheese.
Bitter Green Salad with Citrus and Parmesan Shavings
NOTE:
The combination of watercress and endive works well with the orange and grapefruit sections, although other greens, especially frisée, arugula, and dandelion, could also be used. Serve this refreshingly tart salad after a relatively high-fat meal like roast pork, duck, or goose. See figures 14–17 for information on sectioning oranges and grapefruits. This salad yields four servings.
1/2 small red onion, diced fine
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
4 cups watercress, washed, stemmed, and dried
2 heads Belgian endive, cut into 2-inch pieces
1 large orange, peeled and sectioned, juice reserved
1 large grapefruit, peeled and sectioned, juice reserved
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
12 shavings Parmesan cheese
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix onion and vinegar in small bowl and let stand for 30 minutes. Whisk oil into onion mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Mix watercress and endive in medium bowl. Add fruit and juices, onion mixture, and parsley; toss to coat. Divide among four salad plates. Garnish with cheese shavings and serve immediately.
Figure 14.
To separate orange or grapefruit sections from the membranes that divide them, start by slicing a small section, about 1/2-inch thick, off the top and bottom ends of the fruit.
Figure 15.
With the fruit resting flat against a work surface, use a very sharp paring knife to slice off the rind, including all of the bitter white pith. Slide the knife edge from top to bottom of the fruit and try to follow the outline of the fruit as closely as possible.
Figure 16.
Working over a bowl to catch the juice, slip the blade between a membrane and one section and slice to the center, separating one side of the section.
Figure 17.
Turn the blade of the knife so that it is facing out and is lined up along the membrane on the opposite side of the section. Slide the blade from the center out along the membrane to completely free the section. Continue until all the sections are removed.
Spinach Salad with Mushrooms, Croutons, and Warm Lemon Dressing
NOTE:
Use a hunk of leftover baguette or country white bread to make the croutons for this recipe. This salad serves four. If you like, add 4 cooked and crumbled strips of bacon along with the croutons.
11/2 pounds flat-leaf spinach, stemmed, washed, dried, and torn into large pieces (about 9 cups)
1/2 pound fresh cremini or white mushrooms, cleaned, stems trimmed, and sliced thin
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 cups stale bread, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup lemon juice
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place spinach and mushrooms in large bowl and set aside.
2. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add bread and fry, turning several times with slotted spoon, until crisp and golden, about 3 minutes. Transfer croutons to plate lined with paper towel. Off heat, allow remaining oil to cool for 1 minute. Add garlic and cook until colored, about 2 minutes. Whisk in lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Pour warm dressing over salad and toss to coat. Add croutons, toss and serve immediately.
Watercress Salad with Pears, Walnuts, and Gorgonzola
NOTE:
Pears, walnuts, and blue cheese are a classic combination, especially over bitter greens like watercress. Arugula and Stilton can stand in for the watercress and Gorgonzola. Toast the walnuts in a dry skillet over medium heat, shaking the pan occasionally, until fragrant, about 5 minutes. This salad serves four as an appetizer or after the main course in place of or before dessert.
2 large, ripe but firm red pears, each halved, cored, and cut into 12 wedges
1 tablespoon lemon juice
6 cups arugula, stemmed, washed, and dried
1/2 cup Walnut Vinaigrette (see Mediterranean Vinaigrette)
3 ounces Gorgonzola cheese, crumbled
1/2 cup walnuts, toasted and chopped coarse
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Toss pear wedges with lemon juice in medium bowl; set aside.
2. Toss arugula with vinaigrette. Divide dressed greens among four salad plates. Arrange pears over greens, sprinkle with cheese, walnuts, and a generous grind of pepper. Serve immediately.
VEGETABLE SALADS
VEGETABLE SALADS CAN BE DIVIDED INTO TWO classes based on the dressing. Creamy salads dressed with mayonnaise, such as coleslaw and potato salad, are perfect accompaniments to warm-weather meals because they can be refrigerated. Cucumber salads with a creamy yogurt dressing are related.
A second type of vegetable salad is dressed with vinaigrette. These dishes are generally best served at room temperature, when flavors are brightest. Also, unlike creamy mayonnaise-based salads, many vegetable salads that have been dressed with vinaigrette should be served immediately. This is especially true of green vegetables, which will lose their bright color and become soggy rather quickly.
Creamy Coleslaw
NOTE:
Salting the cabbage and carrots draws off excess water that can otherwise cause the dressing to become watery. To keep the acidity in check, we prefer rice wine vinegar, which is less sour than other vinegars. If you like caraway or celery seed in your coleslaw, add 1/4 teaspoon of either with the mayonnaise and vinegar. The cabbage can be prepared a day in advance, but dress it close to serving time. Serves four.
1 pound (about 1/2 medium head) red or green cabbage, shredded fine or chopped to yield 6 cups (see figures 18–23)
1 large carrot, peeled and grated
2 teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon table salt
1/2 small onion, minced
1/2 cup Homemade Mayonnaise (see Homemade Mayonnaise) or store-bought
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Toss cabbage, carrots, and salt in colander set over medium bowl. Let stand until cabbage wilts, at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.
2. Dump wilted cabbage and carrots into bowl. Rinse thoroughly in cold water (ice water if serving slaw immediately). Pour vegetables back into colander, pressing, but not squeezing on them to drain. Pat dry with paper towels. (Vegetables can be refrigerated in zipper-lock plastic bag overnight.)
3. Pour vegetables into bowl. Add onion, mayonnaise, and vinegar and toss to coat. Season with pepper to taste. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
VARIATIONS:
Sweet-and-Sour Coleslaw
Toss cabbage, carrot, and salt with 1/2 cup sugar and let stand until wilted. Do not rinse vegetables. Replace onion and mayonnaise with 1/4 teaspoon celery seeds and 6 tablespoons vegetable oil. Increase vinegar to 1/4 cup. (Can be covered and refrigerated for 5 days.)
Curried Coleslaw with Apples and Raisins
Follow Sweet-and-Sour variation above, adding 1 teaspoon curry powder, 1 peeled and diced apple, and 1/4 cup raisins along with oil and vinegar.
Figure 18.
It can be hard to figure out how to cut a large cabbage. We start by placing the heel of the palm on the back of the knife, a little in front on the center, and applying pressure toward the tip of the knife as it goes into the cabbage.
Figure 19.
Once the blade is completely below the top of the cabbage, move your fingers to the top of the front section of the knife and apply pressure to finish cutting.
Figure 20.
For slicing cabbage by hand, use the following method to guarantee pieces that are the correct length. Cut the cabbage into quarters and remove the piece of the core attached to each quarter.
Figure 22.
Use a chef's knife to cut each stack of cabbage diagonally (this ensures long pieces) into thin shreds. To chop cabbage, turn the pile of shredded cabbage crosswise, then cut the shreds into fine dice.
Figure 23.
For larger jobs, a food processor fitted with the shredding disk makes quick work of cabbage. Follow figures 18–21, rolling stacked leaves crosswise to fit them into the feed tube.
Boiled Potatoes for Salad
NOTE:
Potato salad starts with boiled potatoes. In our testing, we found that low-starch potatoes such as Red Bliss provide the sturdy texture needed to stand up to dressing. Russet or baking potatoes will fall apart and produce a sloppy-looking salad. There's no need to salt the water for cooking the potatoes—in our tests we found that it does not penetrate. And make sure to cook the potatoes with their skins on to prevent them from becoming water-logged. Cool the potatoes slightly, peel if desired, and then dress.
2 pounds Red Bliss or new potatoes (about 6 medium or 18 new), rinsed and scrubbed
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place potatoes in 4-to 6-quart pot and cover with water. Bring to boil, cover, and simmer, stirring once or twice to ensure even cooking, until thin-bladed knife or metal cake tester inserted into a potato can be removed with no resistance, 25 to 30 minutes for medium potatoes and 15 to 20 minutes for new potatoes.
2. Drain and cool potatoes slightly. Peel if desired. Cut potatoes (use serrated knife if they have skins) as directed in following recipes while still warm, rinsing knife occasionally in warm water to remove gumminess. Proceed as directed in one of the following recipes.
Figure 24.
If you would like to keep the peel on the potatoes, use a serrated knife to slice the potatoes. Other knives will cause the skin to rip and shred.
American-Style Potato Salad with Eggs and Sweet Pickles
NOTE:
Warm potatoes absorb vinegar best so sprinkle vinegar over them when still warm. Use sweet pickle, not relish for the best results in this recipe. Serves six to eight.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad (see Boiled Potatoes for Salad), cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into small dice
2 large scallions, sliced thin
1 small celery stalk, cut into small dice
1/4 cup sweet pickle, cut into small dice
1/2 cup Homemade Mayonnaise (see Homemade Mayonnaise) or store-bought
2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato cubes in medium bowl, sprinkling with vinegar, salt, and pepper as you go. Refrigerate while preparing remaining ingredients.
2. Mix in remaining ingredients and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 1 day.
French-Style Potato Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette
NOTE:
If fresh tarragon is not available, increase the parsley to three tablespoons and use tarragon vinegar in place of the white wine vinegar. Serves six.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad (see Boiled Potatoes for Salad), cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2/3 cup Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette (see Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette)
1 medium shallot, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato slices in medium bowl, sprinkling with vinegar and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing dressing.
2. Whisk dressing and shallot together in small bowl. Pour over potatoes and toss lightly to coat. Refrigerate salad until ready to serve, up to 1 day. Bring to room temperature, stir in parsley, and serve.
German-Style Potato Salad with Bacon and Balsamic Vinegar
NOTE:
Smaller new potatoes are more attractive in this recipe. The slices are smaller and tend not to break up as much as bigger potatoes do. Cider vinegar is more traditional, but we like the sweeter, fuller flavor of the balsamic vinegar. Serves six.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad (see Boiled Potatoes for Salad), cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1/4 cup balsamic or cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
4–5 slices bacon (about 4 ounces), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
1 medium onion, diced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, if needed
1/2 cup beef broth
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato slices in medium bowl, sprinkling with 2 tablespoons vinegar and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing dressing.
2. Fry bacon in medium skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer bacon with slotted spoon to bowl of potatoes. Add onion to bacon drippings and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. If necessary, add oil to yield 2 tablespoons unabsorbed fat.
3. Add beef broth and bring to boil. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar. Remove from heat and pour mixture over potatoes. Add parsley and toss gently to coat. Serve warm or tepid. (Salad may be covered and set aside at room temperature for several hours.)
Salted Cucumbers for Salad
NOTE:
Cucumbers are so watery that they will dilute dressings unless salted. In our tests, we found that weighting the cucumbers maximizes the amount of the liquid they shed, as does time, at least up to a point. Cucumbers should be weighted for at least an hour, but after three hours they will not yield any additional liquid. Do not use more salt than directed below; even if rinsed off the cucumbers will still taste too salty.
3 medium cucumbers (about 11/2 pounds), peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut on the diagonal 1/4-inch thick (see figures 25 and 26)
1 tablespoon salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Toss cucumbers with salt in strainer or colander set over bowl. Weight with water-filled, gallon-sized zipper-lock freezer bag, sealed tight (see figure 27). Drain for at least 1 hour, and up to 3 hours. Transfer cucumber to medium bowl and reserve for future use.
Yogurt Mint Cucumber Salad
NOTE:
Known as raita, this creamy cucumber salad is traditionally served with curry as a cooling contrast. Serves four.
1 cup plain low-fat yogurt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup minced fresh mint leaves
2 small garlic cloves, minced
Salt and ground black pepper
1 recipe Salted Cucumbers for Salad (see Salted Cucumbers for Salad)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Whisk yogurt, oil, mint, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Add cucumbers and toss to coat. Serve chilled.
Figure 26.
Lay halves flat side down on a work surface and slice on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick pieces.
Figure 27.
Weight the salted cucumber to help extract the liquid. To apply the weight evenly, fill a gallon-size plastic bag with water and seal tightly. Place the bag over the cucumbers in the colander.
Sesame-Lemon Cucumber Salad
NOTE:
Toast sesame seeds in dry skillet set over medium heat until fragrant and golden, 4 to 5 minutes. The Asian flavors in the dressing make this salad a natural accompaniment to stir-fries. Serves four.
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
2 teaspoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes, or to taste
1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted
1 recipe Salted Cucumbers for Salad (see Salted Cucumbers for Salad)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Whisk all ingredients except cucumbers together in medium bowl. Add cucumbers and toss to coat. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
Asparagus Vinaigrette with Sieved Egg and Pickled Onions
NOTE:
The pickled pink onions are an excellent contrast to the creamy hard-boiled eggs and vinaigrette. Only 1/4 cup of pickled onions are needed for this salad. Use the remaining pickled onions in other salads or on sandwiches. For a simpler version of this salad, use asparagus, hard-boiled egg, and 1/2 cup Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette (see Tarragon-Mustard Vinaigrette). Or try this salad with 11/2 pounds of trimmed and steamed leeks.
1/2 cup white wine vinegar, plus 1 tablespoon for vinaigrette
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Salt and ground black pepper
1 small red onion, sliced thin and separated into rings
1/3 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon leaves
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 strip zest and 1 tablespoon juice from 1 small orange; zest sliced thin and blanched 10 seconds, then minced
1/2 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
11/2 pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off
1 hard-boiled egg, peeled, white diced fine, yolk pushed through a sieve
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix 1/2 cup vinegar, sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in nonreactive bowl. Place onion slices in colander in sink and pour boiling water over them. Add warm onions to vinegar mixture, adding enough cold water to cover. Let stand until onions are pink, about 15 minutes. Set aside.
2. Put parsley, tarragon, capers, and orange zest in small bowl with pinch of salt; stir in juice and remaining 1 tablespoon vinegar. Whisk in mustard, then slowly whisk in oil. Adjust seasonings and set aside.
3. Bring 1 inch water to boil in soup kettle. Put asparagus in steamer basket, then carefully place basket in kettle. Cover and steam until asparagus spears bend slightly when picked up, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer asparagus to clean towel to dry.
4. Arrange asparagus on platter. Spoon vinaigrette over spears. Lift 1/4 cup or so of onion rings from liquid and scatter over asparagus. Sprinkle diced egg white and sieved yolk over asparagus and serve immediately.
GRAIN & BEAN SALADS
SALADS MADE FROM PASTA, BULGUR, RICE, BREAD, and legumes are increasingly popular, especially during the warm weather. These salads are fairly hearty and can be served as side dishes or as light meals or lunches.
We have never been fans of mayonnaise-based macaroni salads. Pasta is too delicate to be sauced with something so heavy and creamy, especially if the pasta is refrigerated and eaten cold. But there are other styles of pasta salad that can be refreshing and delicious. Raw tomato sauces, vinaigrettes, and pesto are excellent dressings for pasta salads and all three types are discussed in this chapter.
Bread Salad with Tomatoes, Herbs, and Red Onions
NOTE:
Sturdy Italian or coarse peasant bread is essential for this recipe, called panzanella in Italian. Serves four.
1 pound day-old bread, crusts removed and torn into 1-inch cubes (about 6 cups)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 large tomatoes, cored, seeded, and chopped
1/2 red onion, sliced paper-thin
2 tablespoons torn fresh basil or mint leaves
2 teaspoons whole fresh oregano leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place bread cubes in shallow bowl. Mix oil, vinegar, tomatoes, onion, and half of herbs in medium bowl. Let stand for 10 minutes to develop flavors and then add to bread, along with remaining herbs, and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. If bread still seems dry, sprinkle with 1 to 2 tablespoons water. Serve. (If very sturdy bread is used, salad can be covered and set aside for up to 2 hours.)
Pasta Salad with Raw Tomato Sauce
NOTE:
Raw tomatoes make an excellent base for pasta salads. The heat from the pasta slightly cooks diced tomatoes (as well as any raw garlic) but does not loosen the skins, which therefore do not need to be removed. The seeds, however, make pasta salad too watery and should be removed.
If you like, prepare the tomatoes several hours in advance but wait to add the seasonings. The garlic will become too pungent and the salt will draw precious juices out of the tomatoes if the sauce marinates for more than half an hour or so.
Choose a short, stubby pasta that can trap bits of the sauce. Fusilli is an especially good choice, as is farfalle and orecchiette. Serves six to eight as a side dish. Do not refrigerate this salad; the cold will damage the flavor and texture of the tomatoes.
2 pounds ripe tomatoes
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced (about 1 teaspoon)
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
1 pound pasta (see note above)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Core and halve tomatoes crosswise. Use your fingers to push out seeds and surrounding gelatinous material. Cut seeded tomatoes into 1/2-inch dice and place in bowl large enough to hold cooked pasta. (Tomatoes can be covered and set aside for several hours.)
2. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil for cooking pasta. Add oil, garlic, basil, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and several grindings of pepper to tomatoes and mix well. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and cook pasta until al dente. Drain well and immediately toss with tomato sauce. Cool to room temperature. Serve or cover with plastic and set aside for up to 4 hours.
VARIATIONS:
Pasta Salad with Raw Tomatoes, Olives, and Capers
Add 1/3 cup pitted, sliced Kalamata olives, 2 tablespoons drained capers, and 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes (optional) along with oil.
Pasta Salad with Raw Tomatoes and Mozzarella
Toss 6 ounces shredded fresh mozzarella cheese (about 11/2 cups) with hot drained pasta and tomato sauce.
Pasta Salad with Broccoli and Olives
NOTE:
This style of pasta salad, common in delis and gourmet stores, uses a vinaigrette to dress noodles. Often, finely diced or shredded vegetables are added. The problem with most of these pasta salads is the acid. Without any lemon or vinegar, the pasta salad tastes flat. But the acid often causes the pasta to soften and dulls the color and flavor of many vegetables, especially green ones. The solution is to use lemon juice, which is less acidic than vinegar, and to let the vegetables cool to room temperature to set their color before combining them with the hot pasta and dressing.
Choose a short, stubby pasta that can trap pieces of vegetable such as fusilli, farfalle, orecchiette, or shells. Serves six to eight as a side dish.
1 large bunch broccoli (about 11/2 pounds), stalks discarded and florets cut into small bite-sized pieces (about 5 cups)
Salt
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound pasta
12 large black olives, pitted and chopped
12 large fresh basil leaves, shredded
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring several quarts of water to boil for cooking broccoli. Add broccoli and salt to taste and cook until crisp-tender, about 2 minutes. Drain and cool to room temperature.
2. Whisk lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and hot red pepper flakes together in bowl large enough to hold cooked pasta. Whisk in oil until dressing is emulsified.
3. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil for cooking pasta. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and cook pasta until al dente. Drain well. Rewhisk dressing to emulsify and immediately toss with hot pasta, broccoli, olives, and basil. Cool to room temperature and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
VARIATION:
Pasta Salad with Grilled Fennel and Red Onions
Omit broccoli and replace hot red pepper flakes with black pepper to taste and olives with 8 drained and slivered sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil. Trim 1 large fennel bulb and cut through base into 1/2-inch-thick wedges. Peel and cut 2 medium red onions crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. Brush vegetables with 11/2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with salt to taste. Grill, turning once, until both sides are marked with dark grill marks, about 15 minutes. Cool vegetables and cut into thin strips. Add to hot pasta and vinaigrette along with sun-dried tomatoes and basil.
Pasta Salad with Pesto
NOTE:
Pesto is a natural sauce for pasta salad because of its concentrated flavor. But hot pasta can turn pesto sauce an unappealing greenish brown, a problem that becomes even more noticeable if the salad is set aside for some time before serving. In our testing, we found that adding some parsley to pesto helps keep its color green without affecting the flavor.
If you like, add cooked and cooled vegetables to this recipe. Broccoli florets are especially good, as are tomatoes. About three cups of cooked vegetables are enough for a pound of pasta. This is one pasta salad that can tolerate the addition of meat. If you like, add two cups of shredded cooked chicken. Fusilli is our first choice when saucing with pesto. Serves six to eight as a side dish.
3 medium garlic cloves, threaded on a skewer
2 cups fresh packed basil leaves
1/4 cup fresh flat Italian parsley leaves
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
1 pound pasta
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring small saucepan of water to boil. Lower skewered garlic into water; boil until garlic is partially blanched, about 45 seconds. Immediately run cold water over garlic to stop the cooking. Remove from skewer; peel and mince.
2. Place basil and parsley in heavy-duty, quart-size, zipper-lock plastic bag; pound with flat side of meat pounder until all leaves are bruised.
3. Place garlic, herbs, nuts, oil, and pinch of salt in bowl of food processor fitted with steel blade; process until smooth, stopping as necessary to scrape down bowl with flexible spatula.
4. Transfer mixture to bowl large enough to hold cooked pasta, stir in cheese, and adjust salt. Cover and set aside.
5. Bring 4 quarts of water to boil for cooking pasta. Add pasta and 1 tablespoon salt to boiling water and cook pasta until al dente. Drain well. Toss with pesto. Cool to room temperature and serve. (Pasta salad can be refrigerated for 1 day. Bring to room temperature before serving.)
Tabbooleh
NOTE:
As is common in traditional Arab recipes, this grain salad contains more parsley than bulgur. We prefer a ratio of five parts parsley to three or four parts wheat, but you may adjust as you like. Soaking the bulgur in lemon juice (as opposed to water or vinaigrette) gives it a fresh, intense flavor without the added heaviness associated with the oil. Fine-grain bulgur is our first choice for this recipe but medium-grain is an acceptable substitute. Coarse bulgur must be cooked before it is eaten and cannot be used in this recipe. This salad serves four to six as a side dish.
1/2 cup fine-grain bulgur wheat, rinsed and drained
1/3 cup lemon juice
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne or Middle Eastern red pepper, optional
2 cups minced fresh parsley leaves
2 medium tomatoes, cored, halved, seeded, and cut into very small dice
4 medium scallions, green and white parts, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves or 1 rounded teaspoon dried mint
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix bulgur with 1/4 cup lemon juice in medium bowl. Set aside, stirring occasionally, until grains are tender and fluffy, 20 to 40 minutes.
2. Whisk remaining lemon juice, oil, salt to taste, and cayenne, if using, together in small bowl. Add parsley, tomatoes, scallions, and mint to bulgur. Add dressing and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate to let flavors blend, at least 1 hour and no more than 4 hours. Warm slightly at room temperature before serving.
French Lentil Salad with Caraway and Radish
NOTE:
French green lentils take longer to cook than the standard brown variety but keep their shape better, making them the best choice for salads. Ignore warnings about not adding salt to legumes, especially lentils, as they cook. Although the salt may slightly slow down water absorption and add 5 or 10 minutes to the cooking time, it develops and strengthens the flavor of the lentils and should be added at the start along with the aromatics. Serve this hearty, piquant salad with grilled sausage, roast duck, or pâté. It works well as is or over a bed of salad greens. Serves four.
1 cup French Le Puy lentils, picked over and rinsed
1/2 onion, halved and studded with 2 whole cloves
1 carrot, peeled and halved
1 celery stalk, cut into thirds
1 bay leaf
Salt
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons whole-grain mustard
1 tablespoon caraway seeds, lightly crushed
2 garlic cloves, minced
Ground black pepper
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 radishes, minced
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring lentils, clove-studded onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 4 cups water to boil in medium saucepan. Boil for 5 minutes, reduce heat, and simmer until lentils are tender but still hold their shape, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, mix vinegar, mustard, caraway seeds, garlic, and salt and pepper to taste in large bowl. Slowly whisk in oil to make vinaigrette; set aside.
3. Drain lentils, discarding vegetables and bay leaf. Add warm lentils to vinaigrette and toss to coat. Cool to room temperature. (Lentil salad can be covered and set aside for several hours). Stir in radishes and parsley and serve immediately.
MAIN-COURSE SALADS
SALAD CAN BE BECOME DINNER WHEN PROTEIN IS added to the mix. For these salads, there are several points to remember. You want to use enough protein to make the salad seem substantial without overwhelming the greens. Somewhere between three and six ounces of protein per person is best.
Second, these salads are not the time to use tender Boston lettuce or tiny tatsoi. The greens must have enough crunch and flavor to stand up to the cooked protein, the vegetables, and tangy dressings used in these salads. Flat-leaf spinach is an excellent choice, as is watercress, arugula, mizuna, or escarole.
Spinach Salad with Shrimp, Mango, and Red Onion
NOTE:
To save time, buy shrimp that has been peeled and cooked. If you want to boil the shrimp yourself, buy slightly more than one pound with the shells on. This salad serves four.
11/2 pounds flat-leaf spinach, stemmed, washed, dried, and torn into large pieces (about 9 cups)
1 pound cooked medium shrimp
1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and cut into thin strips
1/2 small red onion, peeled and sliced thin
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
2/3 cup Orange-Sesame Vinaigrette (see Orange-Sesame Vinaigrette)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place spinach, shrimp, and mango in large bowl and set aside.
2. Place onion and vinegar in small bowl. Macerate until onions are bright pink, about 5 minutes. Drain onions and add to salad bowl. Pour dressing over salad and toss gently. Serve immediately.
Spinach and Avocado Salad with Chili-Flavored Chicken
NOTE:
A creamy yogurt dressing spiked with lemon and garlic is a good match for the strong flavors in this salad. This salad serves four.
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Salt
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, trimmed of excess fat
11/2 pounds flat-leaf spinach, stemmed, washed, dried, and torn into large pieces (about 9 cups)
4 ripe plum tomatoes (about 3/4 pound), cored and cut into wedges
1 Hass avocado, halved, pitted, peeled, and cut into thin strips (see figures 28–33)
3 tablespoons lemon juice
3/4 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large garlic clove, minced
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat broiler or light grill. Combine chili powder, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in small bowl. Rub vegetable oil then spice mixture into both sides of each chicken breast. Broil or grill chicken, turning once, until cooked through, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
2. Place spinach and tomatoes in large bowl. Sprinkle avocado with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and add to salad bowl.
3. Whisk yogurt, olive oil, garlic, remaining 2 tablespoons lemon juice, and salt to taste in small bowl.
4. Slice chicken crosswise into 3/4-inch-wide strips and add to salad bowl. Pour dressing over salad and toss gently. Serve immediately.
Figure 28.
With their dark, pebbly skin, Hass avocados are generally creamier and better in salads than larger, smooth-skinned varieties. To remove the flesh in neat slices, start by slicing around the pit and cutting through both ends.
Figure 29.
Twist to separate the halves and then stick the blade of a large knife sharply into the pit.
Figure 30.
Lift the blade, twisting if necessary to loosen and remove the pit.
Figure 31.
To protect your hands from the blade, use a large wooden spoon to pry the pit off the blade.
Figure 32.
Use a small paring knife to slice through the meat, but not the skin.
Figure 33.
Run a rubber spatula around the circumference, just inside the skin, to loosen the meat, then twist the spatula to pop out the meat.
Escarole Salad with Bacon and Poached Eggs
NOTE:
Poaching eggs can be a messy business, with simmering water causing the eggs to loose their shape and the whites to feather. We found that adding eggs to boiling water, then turning off the heat and covering the pan allows them to cook by residual heat without the problem of churning bubbles. For best results, use a deep skillet rather than a saucepan (the eggs will hit the bottom of the pan more quickly and set properly) and heavily salt the water for best flavor. This salad is a one-dish brunch and will serve four. For information on poaching eggs in advance, see figure 35.
1 head escarole, washed, dried, and torn into pieces (about 8 cups)
1 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
4 large eggs, each cracked into a small handled cup
2/3 cup Creamy Vinaigrette (see Creamy Vinaigrette)
4 strips bacon, cooked, drained, and crumbled
12 cherry tomatoes, halved
2 ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled
2 tablespoons minced fresh chervil or parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place escarole in large bowl and set aside.
2. Fill 8-to 10-inch nonstick skillet nearly to rim with water, adding salt and vinegar. Bring to boil over high heat. Lower lips of each cup just into water at once; tip eggs into boiling water (see figure 34), cover, and remove pan from heat. Poach until yolks are medium-firm, exactly 4 minutes. For firmer yolks (or for extra-large or jumbo eggs), poach for 41/2 minutes; for looser yolks (or for medium eggs), poach for 3 minutes.
3. While eggs are poaching, toss greens with vinaigrette. Divide greens among four plates.
4. With slotted spoon, carefully lift and drain each egg over skillet. Slide one egg onto each plate along with portion of bacon, tomato, cheese, and herb. Serve immediately.
Figure 34.
To get four eggs into simmering water at the same time, crack each into a small cup with a handle. Lower lips of each cup just into the water at same time and then tips eggs into the pan.
Figure 35.
Poaching eggs does not have to require last-minute work. If you prefer, place cooked eggs in bowl with enough ice water to submerge them, then refrigerate for up to 3 days. When ready to serve, use a slotted spoon to transfer each egg to a skillet filled with boiling water. Turn off the heat, cover, and wait 20 to 30 seconds. Use a slotted spoon to remove eggs and proceed with recipe.
Thai-Style Charred Beef Salad
NOTE:
Tender, inexpensive flank steak is grilled then sliced thin and tossed with a hot-and-sweet Thai-style dressing, cucumber, red onion, leafy greens, and fresh aromatic herbs. Cut the flank steak in half lengthwise before grilling it to keep sliced pieces to a reasonable length. A whole steak usually weighs just under two pounds, which is too much for a salad for four. Reserve the smaller piece for stir-fries or other salads. The fiery dressing can be made with any fresh chile or crushed red pepper flakes, or a combination, as we have done.
11/4 pounds flank steak, cut in half lengthwise
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar
21/2 tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 medium cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut on the diagonal 1/4-inch thick (see figures 25 and 26)
1/2 small red onion, sliced very thin
1 small jalapeno or other fresh chile, stemmed, seeded, and cut into paper-thin rounds
4 cups Boston or Bibb lettuce, washed, thoroughly dried, and torn into large pieces
1 tablespoon fresh cilantro leaves, torn
1 tablespoon fresh mint leaves, torn
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Light charcoal or gas grill. Brush flank steak with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper to taste. Grill steak over very hot fire until medium-rare, about 5 minutes per side. Remove steak from grill, let rest for 5 minutes, and slice thinly across the grain into 1/4-inch-thick strips. Set steak aside.
2. Meanwhile, bring 2/3 cup water and vinegar to boil in small nonreactive saucepan over medium heat. Stir in sugar to dissolve. Reduce heat, add crushed red pepper flakes, and simmer until slightly syrupy, about 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
3. Combine steak, cucumber, onion, and chile in medium bowl. Pour cooled dressing over steak and vegetables and toss to coat.
4. Arrange salad greens over large platter. Spoon steak and vegetables over greens and drizzle with any dressing left in bowl. Sprinkle with torn herbs and serve immediately.
Roast Chicken Breasts for Salad
NOTE:
In our testing, we found that chicken cooked for salad by wet methods (steaming, poaching, roasting in foil, or microwaving), produces bland meat with an unpleasant boiled chicken flavor. The dry heat of roasting results in more flavorful, firmer meat. Shredding the cooked and cooled chicken by hand gives the meat an uneven texture and helps the dressing cling to each piece.
2 large whole bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts (at least 11/2 pounds each)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Set breasts on small, foil-lined jelly roll pan. Brush with oil and sprinkle generously with salt.
2. Roast until thermometer inserted into thickest part of breast registers 160 degrees, 35 to 40 minutes. Cool to room temperature, remove skin, and shred according to figures 36–39.
Figure 36.
Once chicken breasts have cooled, remove the skin and then slice along the center bone to separate the two pieces of the breast meat.
Figure 37.
Insert your fingers into the cut made by the knife and gently pry the breast meat off the bone in two pieces.
Figure 38.
Cut each breast into thirds with a sharp knife.
Classic Creamy Chicken Salad
NOTE:
In addition to the parsley, add 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon or basil leaves if you like. This recipe begins with about 5 cups of shredded chicken, enough for 6 servings. Use this salad to make sandwiches or serve over a bed of leafy greens.
1 recipe Roast Chicken Breasts for Salad (see Roast Chicken Breasts for Salad)
2 medium celery stalks, diced small
2 medium scallions, white and green parts, minced
3/4 cup Homemade Mayonnaise (see Homemade Mayonnaise) or store-bought
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix all ingredients, including salt and pepper to taste, in large bowl. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 day.
VARIATIONS:
Waldorf Chicken Salad
Add 1 large crisp apple, cored and cut into medium dice, and 6 tablespoons chopped, toasted walnuts.
Curried Chicken Salad with Raisins and Honey
Add 6 tablespoons golden raisins, 2 teaspoons curry powder, and 1 tablespoon honey. Use cilantro in place of parsley.
Chicken Salad with Hoisin Dressing
NOTE:
Try serving this Asian-style salad on a bed of spinach leaves with sliced cucumber and radishes, or rolled in a flour tortilla with shredded iceberg lettuce or watercress. Serves six.
1 recipe Roast Chicken Breasts for Salad (see Roast Chicken Breasts for Salad)
2 medium celery stalks, diced small
2 medium scallions, white and green parts, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro or parsley leaves
3/4 cup Hoisin Vinaigrette (see Hoisin Vinaigrette)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix chicken, celery, scallions, and cilantro in large bowl. Add dressing and toss to coat. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to 1 day.
HOW TO MAKE SOUP
SOUP BASICS
MAKING SOUP IS ONE OF THE EASIEST and most rewarding kitchen tasks. The basic ingredients—stock, onions, carrots, potatoes, and herbs—are almost always on hand. The technique is simple. Most recipes begin with the sautéing of aromatic vegetables to build flavor. Liquid is then added along with the distinguishing ingredients—tomatoes for cream of tomato soup or lentils for a lentil soup—and everything is simmered until tender.
Although this process sounds simple (and it is), there are a number of issues that require some special attention.
STOCK
Perhaps the most important issue that faces the cook when making soup is the choice of liquid. Without a doubt, homemade stock (usually chicken stock) is the best option. It has a rich flavor that complements not only chicken but also vegetables, grains, and beans. Certain recipes are best made with something other than chicken stock (as you will see in this book), but if you keep just one homemade stock on hand, make it chicken stock.
We find that beef stock has it uses, especially in a beef soup. It is also delicious (but not essential) in French onion soup. We understand the appeal of vegetable stock for vegetarians, but, given a choice, we always opt for chicken stock, even in a vegetable soup. Of course, if you don't eat meat, you can use vegetable stock, either homemade or store-bought, in any vegetable or bean soup recipe in this book and achieve fine results. In many cases, you could even use water. Soups made with water or vegetable stock will, however, taste less complex.
Our chicken stock takes just an hour to make and is worth the minimal effort. Unfortunately, even the most diligent cook may not always have the time to make homemade stock. Canned broths make good soups, especially if you follow some simple guidelines.
Avoid canned beef broths at all cost. We tested 11 leading brands of canned beef broth and beef bouillon cubes and could not find one that we liked. None really tasted like beef, and most had strong off flavors. Government regulations require makers of beef broth to use only 1 part protein to 135 parts moisture in their product. That translates into less than 1 ounce of meat to flavor 1 gallon of water. (In contrast, our homemade beef stock uses 6 pounds of meat and bones to flavor 2 quarts of water.) Most manufacturers use salt, monosodium glutamate (MSG), and yeast-based hydrolyzed soy protein to give their watery concoctions some flavor and mouthfeel. None of these cheap tricks works.
By comparison, canned chicken broth is far superior. In our tasting of 10 leading brands, we found several that actually tasted like chicken. However, many brands are overly salty, which may explain why low-sodium broths made by Campbell's and Swanson (both brands are owned by the same company) topped our ratings.
Most commercial brands of stock come in cans that measure just under two cups. (Aseptic paper containers generally hold a liter, or just more than four cups.) If using the smaller cans, just add a little water to stretch the broth as needed in recipes. For instance, if a recipe calls for four cups of broth, use two cans of broth plus a few extra ounces of water to make four cups.
STORING AND REHEATING SOUP
One of the beauties of soup is the fact that it holds so well. Make a pot on Sunday and you can enjoy soup several times during the week. Unless otherwise specified, all the soups in this book can be refrigerated for several days or frozen for several months. Store soup in an airtight container. When ready to serve, reheat only as much soup as you need at that time. You can reheat soup in the microwave or in a covered saucepan set over medium-low heat. Because the microwave heats unevenly, this method is best for single servings. Just heat the soup right in the serving bowl or mug. Larger quantities of soup are best reheated on the stovetop.
You may find that a soup has thickened in the refrigerator or freezer. (As soup cools, liquid evaporates in the form of steam.) Simply thin out the soup with a little water to achieve the proper texture.
While most soups can be cooled, then reheated without harm, some will suffer, especially in terms of texture. Soups with rice and pasta are best eaten immediately. When refrigerated, rice and pasta become mushy and bloated as they absorb the liquid in the soup. If you plan on having leftovers, cool the soup before adding the rice or pasta, which is often the last step in most recipes. Add a portion of the rice or pasta to the soup you plan on eating immediately, then add the rest when you reheat the remaining soup.
Soups with seafood also fail to hold up well. For instance, clams will become tough if overcooked by reheating. These soups are best served as soon as they are done.
Finally, pureed soups made from green vegetables will look their best if served immediately upon completion of the recipe. Reheating breaks down the chlorophyll in some green vegetables (asparagus is especially prone to this problem). A soup that is bright green can turn drab army green if stored for several hours and then reheated. Of course, these soups will still taste delicious, but their visual appeal will be greatly diminished.
EQUIPMENT
Soupmaking requires just a few pieces of equipment. At the most basic level, all you need is a pot and spoon. Here are our recommendations for all the equipment used in this book.
SOUP KETTLE/DUTCH OVEN
Most soups can be prepared in a small stockpot (also called a soup kettle) or Dutch oven. These pots work best because they are generally quite large (at least seven quarts) and have two handles, which makes lifting much easier. Dutch ovens are twice as wide as they are high. For stockpots, the opposite is true—they are generally twice as high as they are wide.
Because of their different shapes, we find it slightly easier to sauté in a Dutch oven. There's more surface area, and the vegetables are easier to stir in a shallower pot. This greater surface area also causes soups simmered uncovered to reduce and condense more than they would in a stockpot.
Another consideration when choosing a pot for soupmaking is cost. Most Dutch ovens are designed for making stews and braises and have thick, heavy bottoms that will ensure good results when browning meat. Consequently, most good Dutch ovens cost about $150. We found that cheaper Dutch ovens cause pan drippings to burn. For soupmaking, though, you can get away with a cheaper stockpot because it is used mostly for simmering liquids. In most soup recipes, a cheap aluminum stock pot will deliver fine results. As an added advantage, these pots are lightweight and easy to carry from the stovetop to the counter or sink.
BLENDER
The texture of a pureed soup should be smooth and creamy. With this in mind, we tried pureeing these soups in a food mill, a food processor, and a regular countertop blender, as well as with a handheld immersion blender.
Forget using the food mill for this purpose. We tried all three blades (coarse, medium, and fine), and, in each case, the liquid ran right through the blade as we churned and churned only to produce baby food of varying textures. Once separated, the liquid and pureed solids could not be combined with a whisk.
The food processor does a decent job of pureeing, but some small bits of vegetables can be trapped under the blade and remain unchopped. Even more troubling is the tendency of a food processor to leak hot liquid. Fill the workbowl more than halfway and you are likely to see liquid running down the side of the food processor base. Even small quantities of soup must be pureed in batches, and that's a hassle.
The immersion blender has more appeal since this tool can be brought directly to the pot and there is no ladling of hot ingredients. However, we found that this kind of blender also leaves some chunks behind. If you don't mind a few lumps, use an immersion blender.
For perfectly smooth pureed soups, use a regular blender. As long as a little headroom is left at the top of the blender, there is never any leaking. Also, the blender blade does an excellent job with soups because it pulls ingredients down from the top of the container. No stray bits go untouched by the blade.
Depending on the amount of soup you have made, you may need to puree in two batches. A standard blender has a capacity of seven cups, but it is best not to puree more than five cups of soup at a time.
STRAINER
Even after pureeing, many soups will still contain stray bits of vegetable solids. You can leave the soup as it is, but for a more refined texture it is best to remove these tiny pieces.
We tested a variety of strainers to see which is best for this job. With its three layers of fine mesh, a chinois (a conical French strainer used in many restaurants) proved too fine. We found that the fine mesh holds back almost all of the solids and the resulting soup is too brothy. A regular mesh strainer holds back too little. In our opinion, it does no good to pass a pureed soup through a typical mesh strainer. We had the best results when we turned to a fine, round mesh strainer (see figure 1). It removed large bits of vegetables but allowed the pureed solids to pass through with the liquid.
LADLE
You will want a large ladle for serving soup. We find a ladle with a capacity of one cup to be the most useful.
Figure 1.
The mesh on this strainer is fine enough to trap large solids but not so fine that it will hold back the pureed solids that should remain in a soup.
CHICKEN SOUP
MOST STANDARD CHICKEN STOCKS ARE not flavorful enough for a robust chicken soup. They are fine if ladled into risotto, but we wanted a broth that really tastes like chicken. We knew that the time-consuming conventional method—simmering chicken parts and aromatics such as onions, carrots, and celery in water for at least three hours—was part of the problem. This method takes so long to extract flavor from the chicken that many cooks shortcut the process and end up with weak stock. We wanted to see if we could do better in less time.
We tried blanching a whole chicken (cooking in boiling water for several minutes) on the theory that blanching keeps the chicken from releasing foam during cooking and makes a clearer-tasting stock. The blanched chicken was then partially covered with water and placed in a heatproof bowl over a pan of simmering water. Cooked this way, the chicken itself was never simmered, and the resulting broth was remarkably clear, refined, and full-flavored. The only problem: it took four hours for the broth to take on sufficient flavor. We also noted that our four-pound chicken was good for nothing but the garbage bin after being cooked for so long.
A number of recipes favor roasting chicken bones or parts and then using them to make stock. The theory at work here is that roasted parts will flavor stock in minutes, not hours. We gave it a try several times, roasting chicken backs, necks, and bones, with and without vegetables. We preferred the roasted stock with vegetables but nonetheless found the actual chicken flavor to be too tame.
At last we tried a method described by Edna Lewis in her book In Pursuit of Flavor (Knopf, 1988). She sautés a chicken that's been hacked into small pieces along with an onion until the chicken loses its raw color. The pot is then covered, and the chicken and onion cook, or "sweat," over low heat until they release their rich, flavorful juices, which takes about 20 minutes. Only at that point is the water added, and the broth is simmered for just 20 minutes longer.
We knew we were onto something as we smelled the chicken and onions sautéing. The finished broth confirmed what our noses had detected, tasting pleasantly sautéed, not boiled. But we still had some refining to do: for once, we had made too strong a broth.
We substituted chicken backs and wing tips for the whole chicken and used more water. The resulting broth was less intense, just the right strength to make a base for some of the best chicken soup we've ever tasted. We made the stock twice more—once without the onion and once with onion, celery, and carrot. The onion added a flavor dimension we liked; the extra vegetables neither added nor detracted from the final soup, so we left them out.
After much trial and error, we had a master recipe that delivered liquid gold in just 40 minutes. While this recipe requires more hands-on work (hacking up parts, browning an onion, then chicken parts), it is ready in a fraction of the time required to make stock by traditional methods.
Where can you find these otherwise mostly useless chicken parts? The Buffalo chicken wing fad has made wings more expensive than legs and thighs. For those who can find chicken backs, this is clearly an inexpensive way to make stock for soup. Our local grocery store usually sells them for almost nothing, but in many locations they may be hard to get.
Luckily, we found that relatively inexpensive whole legs make incredibly full-flavored broths for soup. In a side-by-side comparison of two stocks, one made from backs and the other from whole legs, we found the whole leg broth to be even more full-flavored than the all-bone stock. Just don't try to salvage the meat from the legs. After 5 minutes of sautéing, 20 minutes of sweating, and another 20 minutes of simmering, the meat is void of flavor.
If you are making a soup that needs some chicken meat, use a whole chicken, as directed in the recipe for Chicken Stock with Sautéed Breast Meat. The breast is removed, split into two pieces, sautéed briefly, and then added with the water to finish cooking. The rest of the bird—the legs, back, wings, and giblets—is sweated with the onions and discarded when the stock is done. The breast meat comes out of the pot perfectly cooked, ready to be skinned and shredded when cool. We particularly liked the tidiness of this method: one chicken yields one pot of soup.
One note about this method. We found it necessary to cut the chicken into pieces small enough to release their flavorful juices in a short period of time. A meat cleaver, a heavy-duty chef's knife, or a pair of heavy-duty kitchen shears makes the task fairly simple. Precision is not required. The point is to get the pieces small enough to release their flavorful juices in a short period of time.
To cut up a whole chicken, start by removing the whole legs and wings from the body; set them aside. Separate the back from the breast, then split the breast and set the halves aside. Hack the back crosswise into three or four pieces, then halve each of these pieces. Cut the wing at each joint to yield three pieces. Leave the wing tip whole, then halve each of the remaining joints. Because of their larger bones, the legs and thighs are the most difficult to cut. Start by splitting the leg and thigh at the joint, then hack each to yield three to four pieces.
Chicken Stock
makes about 2 quarts
NOTE:
A cleaver will quickly cut up the chicken parts. A chef's knife will also work, albeit more slowly.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
4 pounds chicken backs and wing tips or whole legs, hacked with cleaver into 2-inch pieces
2 quarts boiling water
2 teaspoons salt
2 bay leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large stockpot over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until colored and softened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer onion to large bowl.
2. Add half of chicken pieces to pot; sauté until no longer pink, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer cooked chicken to bowl with onion. Sauté remaining chicken pieces. Return onion and chicken pieces to pot. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken releases its juices, about 20 minutes.
3. Increase heat to high; add boiling water, salt, and bay leaves. Return to simmer, then cover and barely simmer until broth is rich and flavorful, about 20 minutes.
4. Strain broth and discard solids. Skim fat (see figure 2, below, and figure 3) and reserve for later use in soups or other recipes, if desired. (Broth can be covered and refrigerated up to 2 days or frozen for several months.)
Figure 2.
Stock should be defatted before being used. The easiest way to do this is to refrigerate the stock until the fat rises to the surface and congeals. Use a spoon to scrape the fat off the surface. If you like, reserve the fat in an airtight container and use it in place of oil when sautéing.
Figure 3.
You won't always have time to refrigerate stock and wait for the fat to solidify. If this is the case, use a gravy skimmer. Pour some stock into the skimmer, then pour the stock out through the spout attached to the bottom of the skimmer into a clean container. The fat will float to the top of the gravy skimmer as you pour. When there's nothing but a little fat left in the skimmer, remove the fat and start again with more stock. Repeat this process until the entire batch of stock has been defatted.
Chicken Stock with Sautéed Breast Meat
makes about 2 quarts
NOTE:
Choose this broth when you want to add breast meat to soup. This recipe starts with a whole chicken rather than just backs or legs.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 whole chicken (about 3 1/2pounds), breast removed, split, and reserved; remaining chicken hacked with cleaver into 2-inch pieces
1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
2 quarts boiling water
2 teaspoons salt
2 bay leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large stockpot over medium heat. When oil shimmers and starts to smoke, add chicken breast halves; sauté until brown on both sides, about 5 minutes. Remove chicken breast pieces and set aside. Add onion to pot; sauté until colored and softened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer onion to large bowl.
2. Add half of hacked chicken pieces to pot; sauté until no longer pink, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer cooked chicken to bowl with onion. Sauté remaining hacked chicken pieces. Return onion and chicken pieces (excluding the breasts) to pot. Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken releases its juices, about 20 minutes.
3. Increase heat to high; add boiling water, chicken breasts, salt, and bay leaves. Return to simmer, then cover and barely simmer until chicken breasts are cooked through and broth is rich and flavorful, about 20 minutes.
4. Remove chicken breasts from pot; when cool enough to handle, remove skin from breasts, then remove meat from bones and shred into bite-sized pieces; discard skin and bone. Strain broth into separate container and discard solids. Skim fat (see figures 2 and 3), and reserve for later use in soups or other recipes. (The shredded chicken and broth can be covered and refrigerated separately up to 2 days.)
Egg Drop Soup
serves six to eight
NOTE:
Real egg drop soup starts with the finest homemade chicken stock. With stock made, the soup can be ready in just five minutes.
1 recipe Chicken Stock
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Salt
2 tablespoons cornstarch
4 medium scallions, sliced thin
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves
4 large eggs, beaten in a small bowl
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring stock to simmer in large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add soy sauce and salt to taste.
2. Combine cornstarch and 2 tablespoons water in small bowl and stir until smooth. Whisk cornstarch mixture into broth until it thickens slightly. Stir in scallions and cilantro.
3. Whisk broth so that it is moving in circular direction in pan. Pour eggs into broth in slow, steady stream so that ribbons of coagulated egg form (see figure 4). Remove whisk and let eggs stand in broth without mixing until set, about 1 minute. Once set, break eggs up with a fork and serve soup immediately.
VARIATION:
Stracciatella
This Italian version of egg drop soup has grated Parmesan added to the broth.
Follow recipe for Egg Drop Soup, omitting soy sauce in step 1. Omit step 2 (that is, do not use cornstarch, scallions, or cilantro). Instead, beat 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese and 1/4 cup minced fresh basil leaves with eggs in measuring cup. Stir egg mixture into broth as directed in step 3. Season soup with ground black pepper before serving.
Figure 4.
Whisk the chicken broth so that it moves in a circular motion in the saucepan. Pour the beaten eggs into the broth in a slow, steady stream, whisking all the time, so that ribbons of coagulated egg form.
Chicken Noodle Soup
serves six to eight
NOTE:
This recipe relies on stock made with breasts to provide some meat for the soup. To reinforce the poultry flavor, sauté the vegetables in chicken fat skimmed from cooled stock. Vegetable oil may used if you prefer.
2 tablespoons chicken fat or vegetable oil
1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
1 large carrot, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 celery stalk, sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme leaves
1 recipe Chicken Stock with Sautéed Breast Meat
2 cups (3 ounces) wide egg noodles
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat chicken fat in stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrot, and celery; sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add thyme along with stock and shredded chicken meat; simmer until vegetables are tender and flavors meld, 10 to 15 minutes.
2. Add noodles and cook until just tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and pepper to taste, adjust seasonings, and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Chicken Soup with Orzo and Spring Vegetables
Follow recipe for Chicken Noodle Soup, replacing onion with 1 medium leek, rinsed thoroughly, quartered lengthwise, then sliced thin crosswise. Substitute 1/2 cup orzo for egg noodles. Along with orzo, add 1/4 pound trimmed asparagus, cut into 1-inch lengths, and 1/4 cup fresh or frozen peas. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves for parsley.
Chicken Soup with Shells, Tomatoes, and Zucchini
Follow recipe for Chicken Noodle Soup, adding 1 medium zucchini, cut into medium dice, along with onion, carrot, and celery, and increase sautéing time to 7 minutes. Add 1/2 cup chopped tomatoes (fresh or canned) along with stock. Substitute 1 cup small shells or macaroni for egg noodles and simmer until noodles are cooked, about 10 minutes. Substitute an equal portion of fresh basil for parsley. Serve with grated Parmesan, if you like.
BEEF SOUP
BEEF STOCK SHOULD TASTE LIKE BEEF—ALMOST as intense as pot roast jus or beef stew broth—and be flavorful enough to need only a few vegetables and a handful of noodles or barley to make a good soup.
We began our testing by making a traditional stock using four pounds of beef bones fortified with a generous two pounds of beef, as well as celery, carrot, onion, tomato, and fresh thyme, all covered with four quarts of water. Our plan was to taste the stock after 4, 6, 8, 12, and 16 hours of simmering.
At hours 4, 6, and even 8, our stock was weak and tasted mostly of vegetables. And while the texture of the 12-and 16-hour stocks was richly gelatinous, the flavors of vegetables and bones (not beef) predominated.
Knowing now that it was going to take more meat than bones to get great flavor, we started our next set of tests by making broths with different cuts of meat, including chuck, shank, round, arm blade, oxtail, and short ribs. We browned two pounds of meat and one pound of small marrowbones, and we browned three pounds each of different bone-in cuts, such as shank, short ribs, and oxtails. We browned an onion along with each batch. After browning we covered the ingredients and let them "sweat" for 20 minutes. We added only a quart of water to each pot and simmered until the meat in each pot was done.
After a simmer of 11/2 hours, our broths were done, most tasting unmistakably beefy. Upon a blind tasting of each, we agreed that the shank broth was our favorite, followed by the marrowbone-enhanced brisket and chuck. Not only was the broth rich, beefy, and full of body, the shank meat was soft and gelatinous, perfect for shredding and adding to a pot of soup (see figure 5). Because it appeared that our broth was going to require a generous amount of meat, the brisket's high price ($3.99 per pound compared with $1.99 for both the shanks and the chuck) knocked it out of the running.
Though not yet perfect, this broth was on its way to fulfilling our requirements. It could be made from common supermarket cuts like shank, chuck, and marrowbones. Second, it didn't take all day. This broth was done in about 21/2 hours and was full-flavored as soon as the meat was tender. Unlike traditional stocks, which require a roasting pan, stockpot, oven, and burner, this was a one-pot, stovetop-only affair. Finally, this broth didn't require a cornucopia of vegetables to make it taste good. To us, the more vegetables, the weaker the beef flavor. At this point, our recipe called for one lone onion.
What we sacrificed in vegetables, however, we were going to have to compensate for in meat. It took two pounds of meat and one pound of bones to make a quart of broth.
At this point our richly flavored broth needed enlivening. Some broth recipes accomplish this with a splash of vinegar, others with tomato. Although we liked tomatoes in many of the soups we developed, they didn't do much for our broth. And although vinegar was an improvement, red wine made the broth taste even better. We ultimately fortified our broth with a modest half-cup of red wine, adding it to the kettle after browning the meat.
What we had done in developing our recipe for beef broth was to follow our method for making chicken broth—browning and then sweating a generous portion of meat and bones, adding water just to cover, and simmering for a relatively short time—without giving it much thought. We knew the ratio of meat to water was right, but we wondered if it was really necessary to sweat the meat for 20 minutes before adding water. Side-by-side tests proved that sweating the meat did result in a richer-flavored broth. Moreover, the sweated meat and bones did not release foamy scum, thus eliminating the need to skim.
After much testing, we came to this inescapable conclusion: if you want to make beef soup right, you can't skimp on the meat.
Rich Beef Stock
makes scant 2 quarts
NOTE:
Because meat makes such an important contribution to the flavor of this broth, a generous amount is required. For the recipes that follow, you will need only half the amount of meat used to make the broth. Refrigerate the leftover meat in an airtight container and use it for sandwiches or cold salads. If you prefer, replace the shank with 4 pounds of chuck cut into 11/2-inch chunks and 2 pounds of small marrowbones.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
6 pounds shank, meat cut from bone in large chunks (see figure 5)
1 large onion, halved
1/2 cup dry red wine
1/2 teaspoon salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in large stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown meat, bones, and onion halves on all sides in batches, making sure not to overcrowd pot and adding more oil to pot as necessary. Remove meat, bones, and onion and set aside. Add red wine to empty pot and cook until reduced to a syrup, 1 to 2 minutes. Return browned bones, meat, and onion to pot. Reduce heat to low, then cover and sweat meat and onion until they have released about 3/4 cup dark, very intensely flavored liquid, about 20 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high, add 2 quarts water and salt, and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to very low, partially cover, and barely simmer until meat is tender, 11/2 to 2 hours.
2. Strain broth, discard bones and onion, and set meat aside. Skim fat from stock (see figures 2 and 3) and discard. (Stock and meat to be used in soup can be refrigerated up to 5 days.)
Beef Noodle Soup
serves six
NOTE:
Our beef stock is the basis of a quick noodle soup.
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
2 medium carrots, cut into medium dice
1 celery stalk, cut into medium dice
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 1/2teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 recipe Rich Beef Stock, with 2 cups meat shredded into bite-sized pieces
2 cups (3 ounces) wide egg noodles
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion, carrots, and celery; sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add thyme and tomatoes, then beef broth and meat; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer until vegetables are no longer crunchy, about 15 minutes.
2. Add noodles and simmer until fully cooked, about 5 minutes longer. Stir in parsley, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.
Beef Barley Soup with Mushrooms
serves six
NOTE:
Use any wild or domestic mushroom in this soup.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, cut into medium dice
2 medium carrots, cut into medium dice
12 ounces mushrooms, sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme or 1 1/2teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup canned diced tomatoes
1 recipe Rich Beef Stock, with 2 cups meat shredded into bite-sized pieces
1/2 cup pearl barley
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onion and carrots; sauté until almost soft, 3 to 4 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté until softened and liquid is almost completely evaporated, 4 to 5 minutes longer.
2. Add thyme and tomatoes, then beef broth, meat, and barley; bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer until barley is just tender, 45 to 50 minutes. Stir in parsley, add salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.
FRENCH ONION SOUP
FRENCH ONION SOUP SHOULD HAVE A DARK, rich broth, intensely flavored by a plethora of seriously cooked onions, covered by an oversized crouton that is broth-soaked beneath and cheesy and crusty on top. The first obstacle to success is the broth. This soup is most commonly made with homemade beef stock. But making beef stock takes at least three hours. We wondered if there was a way to get around this step.
We tested soups made with chicken stock, both homemade (which takes considerably less time to prepare than beef stock) and canned. Both were, well, too chicken-y and just not right. Soups made with canned beef broth were terrible. Canned beef broth does not have enough flavor to carry the day alone. After experimentation, we devised a formula for what we call cheater broth. By combining canned beef and chicken broths with red wine (the secret ingredient here), we came up with a broth that has enough good, rich flavor to make an excellent soup base.
The next obvious step was to examine the onion factor. After a crying game of slicing many onions of several varieties and then sautéing away, we found Vidalias to be disappointingly bland and boring, white onions to be candy sweet and one-dimensional, and yellows to be only mildly flavorful, with just a slight sweetness. Red onions ranked supreme. Their flavor was intensely onion-y, sweet yet not cloying, and subtly complex.
What was exasperating about the onions is that they took nearly an hour to caramelize. On top of that, they required frequent stirring to keep them from sticking to the bottom of the pot and burning. We found that adding salt to the onions as they began to cook helped draw out some of the water and shaved about 10 minutes off the cooking time. But we began to wonder if it was necessary for the onions to be so caramelized.
We tried, as one recipe suggested, sautéing them until just softened and colored, but they didn't brown enough to contribute much flavor to the soup. Maybe, we thought, a vigorous sauté, over high heat to achieve deep browning, would do the trick. Not so. Onions cooked that way did not lose enough liquid and made the soup watery and bland. (Besides, there is something wrong with an onion soup in which the onions have even a hint of crunch.) We also tried roasting the onions, thinking that the even, constant heat of the oven might be the answer. Wrong again. Taking the pan in and out of the oven to stir the onions was an incredible hassle.
It was inattentiveness that caused us to let the drippings in the pot of a batch of onions go a little too far. The onions themselves, though soft, were not thoroughly caramelized, but all the goo stuck on the pot was. We were sure that the finished soup would taste burned, but we were surprised to find that it was, in fact, as sweet, rich, and flavorful as the soups we had been making with fully caramelized onions. To refine the technique we had stumbled on, we decided that medium-high heat was the way to go and that the drippings should be very, very deeply browned. There's no way around frequent stirring, but this method cut about another 10 minutes off the onion-cooking time, bringing it down to just over 30 minutes.
With all those wonderful, tasty drippings stuck to the bottom of the pot, the deglazing process—adding liquid and scraping up all the browned bits—is crucial. Once the broth is added to the onions, we found that a simmering time of 20 minutes is needed to allow the onion flavor to permeate the broth and the flavors to meld.
Some recipes call for placing the crouton in the bottom of the bowl and ladling the soup over it. We disagree. We opt to set the crouton on top, so that only its bottom side is moistened with broth while its top side is crusted with cheese. The crouton can then physically support the cheese and prevent it from sinking into the soup. To keep as much cheese as possible on the surface, we found it best to use two croutons, instead of only one, to completely fill the mouth of the bowl. A baguette can be cut on the bias as necessary to secure the closest fit.
Traditionally, French onion soup is topped with Swiss, Gruyère, or Emmentaler. Plain Swiss cheese was neither outstanding nor offensive. It was gooey, bubbly, and mild. Both Gruyère and Emmentaler melted to perfection and were sweet, nutty, and faintly tangy, but they were also very strong and pungent, overwhelming many tasters' palettes.
We found that the flavor of Swiss cheese could be improved with the addition of some grated Asiago cheese. Like Gruyère and Emmentaler, Asiago has a sweet and nutty flavor, but without the pungent quality. Parmesan was a good complement for the Swiss cheese, too, with a pleasant sweetness and saltiness, but without the nuttiness of Asiago.
French Onion Soup
serves 6
NOTE:
For a soup that is resplendent with deep, rich flavors, use 8 cups of Rich Beef Stock in place of the canned chicken and beef broths and red wine. Tie the parsley and thyme sprigs together with kitchen twine so they will be easy to retrieve from the soup pot.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 medium red onions (about 3 pounds), sliced thin
Salt
6 cups low-sodium canned chicken broth
13/4 cups low-sodium canned beef broth
1/4 cup dry red wine
2 sprigs fresh parsley
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Ground black pepper
1 baguette, cut on the bias into 3/4-inch slices (2 slices per serving)
41/2 ounces Swiss cheese, sliced 1/16inch thick
3 ounces Asiago cheese, grated (about 3/4cup)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Melt butter in stockpot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add onions and 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir to coat onions thoroughly with butter. Cook, stirring frequently, until onions are reduced and syrupy and inside of pot is coated with very deep brown crust, 30 to 35 minutes. Stir in chicken and beef broths, red wine, parsley, thyme, and bay leaf, scraping pot bottom with wooden spoon to loosen browned bits, and bring to a simmer. Simmer to blend flavors, about 20 minutes, and discard herbs. Stir in balsamic vinegar and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. (Soup can be refrigerated in airtight container up to 2 days; return to simmer before finishing with croutons and cheese).
2. To serve, adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat broiler. Set heatproof serving bowls or crocks on baking sheet and fill each with about 11/2 cups soup. Top each bowl with two baguette slices and distribute Swiss cheese slices, placing them in a single layer, if possible, on bread. Sprinkle with about 2 tablespoons grated Asiago cheese and broil until well-browned and bubbly, about 10 minutes. Cool 5 minutes and serve.
PUREED VEGETABLE SOUPS
INITIALLY, WE SET OUT TO DEVELOP A SINGLE master recipe for pureed vegetable soup, hoping that the same technique could be used with all vegetables. We quickly discovered that green vegetables, such as peas and asparagus, must be handled differently from the heartier, more starchy vegetables, such as carrots and butternut squash.
Dense winter vegetables are bulky enough to act as their own thickener. There is no need to add flour or cream to thicken soups made from these vegetables. Green vegetables, however, are not starchy enough to use on their own. They require flour and cream. Loss of color is another issue when making soups made from green vegetables. The two types of pureed soup are considered separately in this chapter.
SOUPS WITH HEARTY VEGETABLES
We enjoy the smooth, silky texture of creamed vegetable soups, but we often find the flavor to be lacking. The dairy elements (usually lots of butter and cream) mask the taste of the vegetables. Instead of an intense carrot flavor in a creamy base, for example, we usually taste cream with carrots in the background.
We wanted to see if there was a way to make a pureed soup that tasted more like vegetables. We wanted a creamy carrot soup reminiscent of the sweetest carrots, a butternut squash soup that really had the flavor of squash. And we were not willing to sacrifice anything in terms of consistency. Puréed vegetable soups must be silky. Otherwise, there is no point in pureeing them.
Most creamy vegetable soups contain flour. While we find flour to be essential when working with more watery green vegetables, starchy vegetables don't seem to need flour. In fact, when flour is added to soups made with dense, starchy vegetables, the texture becomes overly thick and starchy.
To find our way, we decided to use carrots as a model and then test other vegetables after developing a basic recipe. We started out by experimenting with other starches (cornstarch and potato starch) but found the results to be similar to soups made with flour. The texture was still too thick and gummy, and the vegetables were not the primary flavor. We had also seen recipes using potatoes or rice as thickeners, usually cooked right along with the vegetables in broth. When we tried this, though, the potatoes and rice detracted from the carrot flavor and caused the color of the soup to fade.
We found that the elimination of the starch improved the texture of the soup, but the recipe we were working with had a dairy component, and its flavor still dominated. It seemed to us that the best idea might be to use a larger quantity of vegetables and puree them for texture.
Most recipes for pureed vegetable soup use equal amounts of vegetables and liquid, or in some cases slightly more liquid than vegetables. We decided to alter this ratio in a big way and cook four cups of carrots in two cups of stock. We figured we would get more vegetable flavor and could use the vegetables themselves as a thickener.
This change resulted in an immediate improvement. By the time the vegetables were cooked, the mixture was thick enough to create a puree with good body. In fact, the pureed carrots and broth were actually a little too thick. Instead of adding cream to the vegetables as they cooked, we now needed to add cream to the blender to thin out the pureed carrots.
We used about one cup of cream to get the right consistency, but this was too much dairy fat for our taste. Next, we tried substituting half-and-half as well as whole and low-fat milk. We found that whole milk provided just the right amount of dairy fat to improve the texture, providing smoothness and a creamy mouthfeel without overwhelming the carrot flavor. Adding skim milk or 2 percent milk was like adding more broth—not at all satisfying. Half-and-half was good, but a tad too rich.
Now that we had successfully developed a bright orange carrot soup that tasted of good, sweet carrots, we wondered what other vegetables might take to this technique. Watery vegetables refused to work. Mushrooms, for instance, don't have enough fiber and bulk to work as their own thickening agent. Peas and asparagus are also poor candidates for this technique, which works best with tubers, roots, and hearty winter vegetables.
We have included recipes using carrots, butternut squash, and cauliflower, but the same technique can be applied to parsnips, turnips, beets, or sweet potatoes. These soups also taste delicious cold. To serve them cold, start off with oil instead of butter; unlike butter, the oil won't congeal when chilled.
Pureed Carrot Soup
serves four to six
NOTE:
Use oil instead of butter when serving this soup cold.
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, 3 medium shallots, or 1 medium leek (white and light green parts only), chopped
1/4 cup dry sherry or white wine
11/2 pounds (about 8 medium) carrots, peeled, halved lengthwise, and sliced thin (about 4 cups)
2 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper, or more to taste
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
11/4-11/2 cups whole milk
2 teaspoons minced fresh tarragon, chives, or parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat butter or oil in large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until golden, about 5 minutes. Stir in sherry and carrots; cook until sherry evaporates, about 30 seconds.
2. Add stock, salt, pepper, and nutmeg to saucepan; bring to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer, cover, and cook until carrots are tender, 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Ladle carrot mixture into blender. Add 1 cup milk; blend until very smooth. Return soup to saucepan; cook over low heat until warmed through. If soup is too thick, stir in up to 1/2 cup more milk to thin consistency. Adjust seasonings. Serve hot, garnishing bowls with minced herb.
VARIATIONS:
Pureed Butternut Squash Soup with Ginger
Follow recipe for Puréed Carrot Soup, adding 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh gingerroot to onions after onions have sautéed for 4 minutes. Continue cooking for 1 minute. Replace carrots with 1 medium butternut squash (about 21/2 pounds), which has been halved, seeded, peeled, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes to yield 5 cups. Omit nutmeg and cook squash until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. Thin with 1 to 11/4 cups milk and garnish with minced chives or parsley.
Pureed Cauliflower Soup with Curry
Follow recipe for Puréed Carrot Soup, adding 11/2 teaspoons curry powder to onions after onions have sautéed for 4 minutes. Continue cooking for 1 minute. Replace carrots with 1 medium head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), stems discarded and florets cut into bite-sized pieces to yield 5 cups. Omit nutmeg and cook cauliflower until tender, about 15 minutes. Thin with 3/4 to 1 cup milk and garnish with minced chives or parsley.
SOUPS WITH GREEN VEGETABLES
Soups made with green vegetables behave quite differently from other pureed vegetable soups. Some green vegetables, such asparagus, are not starchy enough to create a thick texture when pureed. They need help from flour and/or cream. Loss of color is another key issue that affects all soups made with green vegetables.
Our goal was to develop pureed green vegetable soups with bright color and strong flavor. The color issue was fairly easy to solve. Green vegetables should not be simmered too long in soup. This means cutting the vegetables into small pieces so they cook quickly. Also, it is best to serve creamy green vegetable soups as soon as they are ready. Reheating is not kind to these soups, which are prone to turning a drab olive green.
The more problematic issue is flavor. As we found in earlier tests with carrots, flour and cream have a dulling effect on vegetable flavor. However, while carrots are sturdy enough to create a thick soup without either flour or cream, green vegetables are too watery. We tried to get around using flour and cream but were disappointed with the results. While soups made with starchy vegetables can become dull when thickened with these ingredients, pureed green vegetable soups are thin unless flour and cream are used. Our mission was clear: improve and enhance the vegetable flavor despite the need to add flour and cream.
We found that keeping simmering times to a minimum helped to preserve the flavor of green vegetables. Puréeing or finely chopping them in the food processor improved the texture of the soup and cut cooking time to a matter of minutes. For instance, we discovered that processing partly frozen peas in the food processor and simmering them briefly in the soup released their starch and flavor quickly. Boston lettuce, a common component in many pea soup recipes, gave our soup a marvelous, almost frothy texture.
For broccoli, the key was to pulse the trimmed stems and florets in the food processor. When cut so finely, broccoli will become completely tender in just seven or eight minutes of cooking, before its strong-smelling compounds have had a chance to form.
Asparagus proved more troublesome. No matter what we tried, the flavor in soups simmered for only a short time was too mild. When we allowed the asparagus to cook for a longer time (more than 15 minutes), the flavor was better, but the color was army green. We tried broiling the asparagus, hoping that this method would boost its flavor and help to break down its stringy texture. Broiled asparagus remained bright green and contributed much more flavor to the soup, but the texture was still too stringy.
We tried pureeing chopped raw asparagus before adding it to the soup, and this greatly improved the texture. Unfortunately, the flavor of this soup paled in comparison with the soup made with broiled asparagus. The solution was simple: puree half of the asparagus for smooth texture and broil the other half for strong flavor. We found the results to be admirable; although the finished texture is not perfectly smooth—even after straining—the flavor and color are lovely.
Creamy Pea Soup
serves four to six
NOTE:
Shallots work best with delicate green vegetables, but you can use an equal amount of onions or leeks.
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup minced shallots (7 to 8 shallots)
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth
11/2 pounds frozen peas, partially thawed at room temperature for 10 minutes
12 small Boston lettuce leaves (about 3 ounces), washed, dried, and chopped
1/2 cup heavy cream
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat butter in large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add shallots and sauté, covered, until completely soft, 7 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in flour with wooden spoon. Cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Add stock gradually, whisking constantly to thin out flour-butter mixture. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 5 minutes.
2. While soup base is cooking, place partially frozen peas in workbowl of food processor and process until peas are texture of coarse, chopped pistachios, about 20 seconds. Stir peas and lettuce into soup base, cover, and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Uncover, reduce heat to medium, and simmer for 2 minutes.
3. Purée soup in a blender in two batches until smooth. Pour soup through fine strainer (see figure 1) and into clean saucepan, then stir in cream. Bring soup to a simmer, but do not boil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Creamy Broccoli Soup
Follow step 1 of Creamy Pea Soup recipe, using 2 cups stock and 2 cups water. Trim tough bottom portion of stalks from 1 large bunch broccoli (about 11/2 pounds). Peel tough outer skin from remaining portion of stalks. Coarsely chop peeled stalks and florets. Pulse broccoli in food processor until cut very small but not pureed. (The largest pieces should be pea-sized). Stir broccoli into soup base in place of peas and lettuce and simmer until tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Proceed with step 3 of Creamy Pea Soup recipe, but do not strain. Add 11/2 teaspoons lemon juice with salt and pepper to taste.
Creamy Asparagus Soup
Preheat broiler and position rack on highest setting. Place 11/2 pounds trimmed (tough ends discarded) asparagus on rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle 1 tablespoon melted butter over asparagus and roll asparagus back and forth to coat. Broil asparagus until tender and just beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Cool and roughly chop. Reserve. Chop another 11/2 pounds raw, trimmed asparagus into 1-inch pieces and transfer to workbowl of food processor. Pulse until asparagus is finely chopped. Reserve separately.
Follow step 1 of Creamy Pea Soup recipe. Replace peas and lettuce in step 2 with broiled and raw chopped asparagus and simmer until tender, about 5 minutes. Proceed with step 3 of Creamy Pea Soup recipe. Add 1 tablespoon lemon juice with salt and pepper to taste. If soup seems too thick, add up to 1 cup hot water.
CORN CHOWDER
THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE IN MAKING CORN chowder is getting corn flavor. The sweet, delicate flavor of corn can be easily overwhelmed by the cream, potatoes, leeks, bacon, and other seasonings. At the outset, we decided to use frozen corn because it is available year-round and is so easy to work with. (We also developed a variation for fresh corn that can be used during the summer.)
Since broiling worked so well to bring out the flavor of asparagus in our Creamy Asparugus Soup, we decided to try this method with frozen corn kernels. As we hoped, the flavor of the chowder made with broiled corn was richer and deeper. We had worried that the application of dry heat might toughen the kernels as well as enhance their flavor, but they softened nicely when stirred into the soup. As an added bonus, we found that broiled corn kernels were less likely to fall apart after being simmered.
Having achieved the corn flavor we were after, we turned our attention to texture. Many corn chowders are too thick, even gluey. We tried eliminating flour and the step of pureeing the finished soup, but did not like the results. The soup was a bit thin, and the corn and the liquid did not meld. Next, we tried pureeing the finished chowder, but we didn't like these results either. The soup was too dense, and we missed the chunks of corn and potato.
We decided to thicken the soup without pureeing. Sprinkling two tablespoons of flour over the sautéed aromatic vegetables worked well, but the soup was still a bit thin. When we added more flour, the soup tasted floury. We had better results when we pureed some of the corn kernels before adding them to the soup kettle. The starchy pureed corn made the soup silkier and heartier without making it dull or gluey. At last, we had a corn chowder with excellent corn flavor and a silky, substantial texture.
Corn Chowder
serves four to six
NOTE:
Chowder made with frozen corn is delicious and easy to assemble. To use fresh corn, remove the kernels from five to six medium ears to yield the necessary five scant cups for this recipe.
2 10-ounce packages frozen corn kernels (5 scant cups)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Salt and ground black pepper
2 ounces (2 strips) bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium leeks, white and light green parts, finely chopped
1 large celery stalk, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
Pinch cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons flour
4 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 bay leaf
2 medium red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1 cup heavy cream
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to top position and heat broiler. Toss 4 scant cups corn with 1 tablespoon oil and salt and pepper to taste in large bowl. Spread corn out evenly over large baking sheet. Broil, stirring occasionally, until corn begins to brown, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from oven and set aside. Allow remaining 1 scant cup corn to partially thaw, about 10 minutes. Process in food processor until very fine, about 15 seconds. Reserve.
2. Cook bacon in large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat until crisp, about 8 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and set aside. Pour off all bacon fat.
3. Melt butter in empty Dutch oven, still over medium heat. Add leeks and sauté until very soft, about 7 minutes. Add celery and cook for another 5 minutes, or until soft. Add garlic and cayenne; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in flour with wooden spoon. Cook for 2 minutes.
4. Add stock slowly, whisking constantly to thin flour-butter mixture. Add bay leaf and potatoes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Add roasted corn, processed corn, and thyme; let soup simmer over medium-high heat for 5 minutes.
5. Stir in cream and return to a simmer. Add bacon and salt and pepper to taste. Remove bay leaf. Serve hot.
CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP
CREAMY TOMATO SOUP SHOULD TASTE LIKE sweet, ripe tomatoes and have a rich red color. The cream should tame the acidity but not obliterate it. The soup should also be extremely smooth.
We knew that ripe August tomatoes would make excellent soup, but this recipe is really too heavy for summertime. It's best served at the holidays or for lunch on a cold winter's day, when only out-of-season tomatoes are available. We made five different tomato soup recipes using out-of-season fresh tomatoes, and the results were ghastly. All the soups were watery and tasted like cream and vegetables (onions, leeks, whatever was added to the base). The tomato flavor was so faint that the color was the only clue that the soups contained tomatoes.
Our next step was to test canned tomatoes. From past results, we knew that canned whole tomatoes packed in juice (not puree) have the freshest tomato flavor. That's because puree is a concentrate requiring higher and longer cooking times than simple canned tomatoes, whole or diced. We tried our favorite canned whole tomatoes (Muir Glen has been a consistent winner in our blind taste tests), and the results were better but not great. The soup needed more tomato flavor.
We wondered how we could get more flavor from canned tomatoes. We decided to trying broiling, which had worked well in soups made with corn and asparagus. The difference was enormous. The soup tasted as if it had been made with the finest, ripest summer tomatoes.
Admittedly, broiling canned tomatoes can be tricky. We had trouble with burning in some spots on the tray. We figured that roasting in a hot oven would deliver similar results without the risk of scorching. After several tests, we concluded that roasting at 450 degrees gave us excellent flavor without any scorching. Roasting both intensified the flavor of the canned tomatoes and mellowed their acidity.
With the all-important tomato element in place, we wondered if we could intensify the flavor even further with tomato paste or sun-dried tomatoes. Sun-dried tomatoes added a bit more tomato flavor, but we felt the difference was not worth the bother of rehydrating the dried tomatoes in boiling water. The paste brought another level of tomato intensity to the soup and fortified the color. Paste is easy to add to the soup, so we have included some in our recipe.
Cream of Tomato Soup
serves four
NOTE:
Roasting the canned tomatoes improves their flavor and gives the soup a rich red color.
2 cans (28 ounces) whole tomatoes packed in juice, preferably Muir Glen
11/2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 large shallots, minced (about 3/4cup)
1 tablespoon tomato paste
Pinch ground allspice
2 tablespoons flour
2 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth, hot
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons dry sherry or brandy
Salt and cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 450 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Drain tomatoes in small strainer set over medium bowl. With your fingers, open whole tomatoes and remove seeds, allowing juices to fall through strainer and into bowl (see figure 6). Reserve 2 cups juice. Leaving seeds behind, transfer whole tomatoes to lined baking sheet and arrange in single layer (see figure 7). Sprinkle tomatoes with brown sugar and bake until completely dry and starting to color, about 30 minutes. Let cool slightly, then peel tomatoes off foil. Reserve.
2. While tomatoes are roasting, melt butter in medium saucepan over medium heat until foaming. Add shallots, tomato paste, and allspice. Reduce heat to low, cover, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until shallots are completely soft, 7 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour and cook for 30 seconds, stirring constantly. Gradually add stock, whisking to incorporate the flour/butter mixture.
3. Add tomatoes and their juice. Cover and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Pour hot soup through strainer into clean saucepan. Purée solids left in strainer in blender with enough tomato broth in saucepan (about 1 cup) to achieve a perfectly smooth consistency. Stir puree into tomato broth and set pan over low heat. Add cream and sherry and season with salt and cayenne to taste. Bring to a simmer. Serve hot.
Figure 6.
With your fingers, carefully open the whole tomatoes over a strainer set in a bowl and push out the seeds, allowing the juices to fall through strainer and into the bowl. The seeded tomatoes can go directly onto the baking sheet, as directed in figure 7.
Figure 7.
To promote even cooking, arrange the seeded tomatoes in a single layer on a foil-lined, rimmed baking sheet. The foil is essential; it keeps the tomatoes from scorching and sticking to the baking sheet.
POTATO-LEEK SOUP
POTATO-LEEK SOUP IS A STAPLE OF EUROPEAN peasant cooking. It is at once hearty and creamy because of the potatoes and lean because cream is rarely added. We had a number of questions. What kind of potatoes are best, and how should they should be cooked to keep them from disintegrating? How many leeks are necessary for good flavor? Should other alliums (onions and garlic) be added to the base?
We started by testing various kinds of potatoes. In our opinion, the potatoes in this soup should be tender but not mushy or waterlogged. In many of the recipes we tested, the potatoes fell apart into a starchy mess. Low-starch red potatoes are a must here. We discovered that they hold their shape better than russet potatoes or Yukon golds.
Precise timing for cooking the potatoes was hard to pinpoint. One minute the potatoes tasted a bit underdone, the next minute they were too soft. We hit upon the following solution: simmer the potatoes until the chunks are almost tender (there should be just a tiny bit of hardness in the center when tested), then turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let gentle residual heat finish cooking the potatoes.
With the potato issue settled, we moved on to the leeks. We started out with two leeks. Although this a common amount in many recipes, we found that soups with so few leeks tasted anemic. We concluded that while potatoes may add the texture and heft to this soup, the leeks are the real source of flavor. We eventually decided on five or six medium leeks, including some of the green section, which makes for a more robust flavor. We tried slicing the leeks quite fine as well as leaving the pieces fairly large. Larger pieces are a substantial and appealing addition to this soup.
We like the simplicity of using just leeks and potatoes but wondered if other vegetables (especially onions and garlic) might add flavor. We found the presence of garlic, even in small amounts or when roasted, to be overpowering. However, onions added another level of flavor that complemented that of the leeks.
Potato-Leek Soup
serves six to eight
NOTE:
Red-skinned potatoes hold their shape better than other potatoes and are the best choice in this recipe.
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 medium-large onions, chopped fine
5–6 medium leeks, whites and 3 inches of green section, halved lengthwise, washed, and cut crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces (about 11 cups)
1 tablespoon flour
6 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 bay leaf
13/4 pounds red potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch dice (about 4 cups)
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Melt butter in large Dutch oven over medium-low heat. When butter foams, add onions, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until very soft, about 10 minutes. Add leeks, increase heat to medium, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender but not mushy, 15 to 20 minutes. Do not allow leeks to color.
2. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and stir to coat evenly. Cook for 2 minutes. Gradually whisk in stock. Add bay leaf and potatoes, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until potatoes are almost tender, about 5 minutes. Remove pan from heat and keep covered until flavors meld and potatoes are completely tender, about 10 minutes. Remove bay leaf and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.
VARIATIONS:
Potato-Leek Soup with Kielbasa or Ham
Follow recipe for Potato-Leek Soup until potatoes are almost tender. Add 8 ounces kielbasa, cut into 1/4-inch slices, or 8 ounces diced cooked ham, then cover pan and let flavors meld for 10 minutes. Proceed as directed.
Potato-Leek Soup with White Beans
Follow recipe for Potato-Leek Soup, reducing amount of potatoes to 1 pound. When potatoes are almost tender, add 1 cup cooked white beans and 1 cup hot water, cover pan, and let flavors meld for 10 minutes. Proceed as directed.
MINESTRONE
MINESTRONE IS NOT A LIGHT UNDERTAKING. Any way you cut it, there is a lot of dicing and chopping. Given the amount of preparation, we thought it was important to discover which steps and ingredients were essential and which we could do without. Could everything be added to the pot at once, or is it necessary to precook some of the vegetables? Was stock essential, or could we use water, as do many traditional Italian recipes? How many vegetables were enough? And which ones?
While we wanted to pack the soup with vegetables, we were also determined to create a harmonious balance of flavors. Minestrone should be a team effort, with each element pulling equal weight. From the start, we decided to jettison vegetables that were too bold (such as broccoli) as well as those that were too bland and would contribute little flavor to the soup (such as button mushrooms).
We wanted to devise a basic technique for preparing the soup, and our research turned up two possible paths. The majority of recipes dump the vegetables into a pot with liquid and simmer them until everything is tender. A few recipes call for sautéing some or most of the vegetables before adding the liquid (along with any vegetables that would not benefit from cooking in fat, such as spinach).
Although we expected the soup with sautéed vegetables to be more flavorful, it wasn't. We then prepared three more pots without sautéing any of the vegetables. We added homemade vegetable stock to one pot, homemade chicken stock to a second, and water and the rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese to the third.
The results were unexpected. The soup made with vegetable stock tasted one-dimensional and overwhelmingly sweet; because the vegetables were already sweet, using vegetable stock, which is also fairly sweet, did not help to balance the flavors. We realized we wanted the liquid portion of the soup to add a layer of complexity that would play off the vegetables. The soup made with chicken stock seemed to fit the bill. It was rich, complex, and delicious. However, the chicken flavor overwhelmed the vegetables. Diluting the stock with water wasn't the answer; this resulted in a rather bland soup. Ultimately, we preferred the soup made with water and the cheese rind. The Parmesan gave the broth a buttery, nutty flavor that contrasted nicely with the vegetables without overshadowing them.
We wanted the vegetables to soften completely but not lose their shape, and an hour of gentle simmering accomplished this. Much longer and the vegetables began to break down; any less time over the flame and the vegetables were too crunchy. We liked the concentrating effect of simmering without the lid on.
We also looked at several recipes that added some fresh vegetables at the end of the cooking time. This sounded like a nice idea, but the fresh peas and green beans added 10 minutes before the soup was done tasted uncooked and bland compared with the vegetables that had simmered in the flavorful soup for an hour. For maximum flavor, all the vegetables, even ones that usually require brief cooking times, should be added at the outset.
The addition of the cheese rind was an interesting find. During our research, we also turned up two other flavor boosters that could replace the cheese rind and be added to the soup from the start: rehydrated porcini mushrooms and their soaking liquid, and pancetta (unsmoked Italian bacon). The pancetta proved to be a better team player.
Pancetta must be sautéed to render its fat and release its flavor. We cooked a little pancetta until crisp in some olive oil, then added the water and vegetables. Like the cheese rind, the pancetta contributed depth. But while cheese rind gave the soup a buttery, nutty flavor, the pancetta added a very subtle flavor of pork and spice. We tried regular American bacon as well. It was a bit stronger and lent a smoky element to the soup. In the recipe variation below, we prefer the subtler flavor of the pancetta, but either pancetta or smoked bacon make for a much more flavorful soup than one made with water alone.
Up until this point, we had focused on ingredients that went into the soup pot at the start. But many traditional Mediterranean recipes stir in fresh herbs or herb pastes just before the soup is served. Pesto is the most common choice, and we were hooked from the first time we added it to the soup. The heat of the soup releases the perfume of the basil and garlic and creates another delicious layer of flavor. A simple mixture of minced fresh rosemary, garlic, and extra-virgin olive oil was also delicious. As with the pesto, the oil adds some fat to a soup that is otherwise very lean. The rosemary and garlic combo is very strong and must be used in smaller quantities than the pesto.
Minestrone
serves six to eight
NOTE:
The rind from a wedge of Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, brings complexity and depth to a soup made with water instead of stock. Remove the rind from a wedge of fresh Parmesan, or save the rinds from pieces that have been completely grated in a zipper-lock bag, stored in the freezer to use as needed.
2 small leeks (or 1 large), washed thoroughly, white and light green parts sliced thin, crosswise
2 medium carrots, chopped small
2 small onions, chopped small
2 medium celery stalks, chopped small
1 medium baking potato, peeled and cut into medium dice
1 medium zucchini, cut into medium dice
3 cups stemmed spinach leaves, cut into thin strips
1 can (28 ounces) whole tomatoes packed in juice, drained, and chopped
1 Parmesan cheese rind, about 5 x 2 inches Salt
1 can (15 ounces) cannellini beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup pesto or 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary mixed with 1 teaspoon minced garlic and 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring vegetables, tomatoes, 8 cups water, cheese rind, and 1 teaspoon salt to boil in a stockpot. Reduce heat to medium-low; simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally until vegetables are tender but still hold their shape, about 1 hour. (At this point, soup can be refrigerated in airtight container for 3 days or frozen for 1 month.)
2. Add beans and cook just until heated through, about 5 minutes. Remove pot from heat. Remove and discard cheese rind. Stir in pesto or rosemary-garlic mixture. Adjust seasonings, adding pepper and more salt, if necessary. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Minestrone with Pancetta
Mince 2 ounces thinly sliced pancetta or bacon and sauté in 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in soup kettle until crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Proceed with recipe for Minestrone, adding vegetables, tomatoes, and water but omitting cheese rind.
Minestrone with Rice or Pasta
Follow recipe for Minestrone or Minestrone with Pancetta until vegetables are tender. Add 1/2 cup Arborio rice or small pasta shape, such as elbows or orzo, and continue cooking until rice is tender, about 20 minutes, or until pasta is al dente, 8 to 12 minutes. Add beans and proceed as directed.
VARYING MINESTRONE
Minestrone contains seven kinds of vegetables as well as tomatoes and cannellini beans. The aromatics—leeks, carrots, onions, and celery—are essential, as are the tomatoes. We like to add starchy potatoes, sweet zucchini, and leafy spinach, but these choices can be altered according to personal preference.
What follows are some notes on other vegetables that were tested in this soup. Bell peppers and broccoli were too distinctive, while eggplant and white mushrooms added little flavor, so none of these four vegetables is recommended.
When making substitutions, keep in mind that the Minestrone recipe has 21/2 cups of solid vegetables (potatoes and zucchini) and three cups of leafy spinach. Use similar proportions when working with the vegetables below.
As for the beans, white kidney beans, called cannellini beans in Italy, are the classic choice. But other white beans can be used, as well as red kidney, cranberry, or borlotti beans, all of which appear in various Italian recipes for minestrone.
CAULIFLOWER: While broccoli is too intense for minestrone, milder cauliflower can blend in. Cut into tiny florets and use in place of potatoes or zucchini.
ESCAROLE: This slightly bitter green works well with white beans and pasta. Chop and use in place of spinach.
GREEN BEANS: Beans are a standard ingredient in French versions of this soup. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces and use in place of zucchini.
KALE: This assertive green can be overwhelming on its own, but it gives the soup a pleasant edge when combined with spinach. Remove ribs and chop. Use up to 11/2 cups in place of 11/2 cups of spinach.
PEAS: The delicate flavor of fresh peas is wasted in this soup, so use frozen. Add up to 1/2 cup in place of 1/2 cup zucchini or white beans.
SAVOY CABBAGE: This crinkly leaf cabbage adds an earthy note. Shred finely and use up to 11/2 cups in place of 11/2 cups spinach.
SWISS CHARD: This green is similar to spinach, with a slightly more earthy flavor. Remove ribs and chop. Use in place of spinach.
TURNIPS: The modest bitter edge of the turnip helps balance out the flavors of the sweet vegetables. Peel and use in place of potatoes.
WINTER SQUASH: Butternut squash is sweet, but in small quantities it is especially colorful and delicious. Peel and dice. Use in place of potatoes or zucchini.
LENTIL SOUP
OUR IDEAL LENTIL SOUP IS THICK AND hearty, with lentils that are still intact. Many of the recipes we tested made delicious soups, but their texture was unappealing because the lentils had disintegrated into a thick mush.
We started our testing by focusing on the type of lentil. Red lentils fall apart when simmered and are best used in purees. We had better luck with the common brown lentils (sometimes tinged with green) that are sold in supermarkets. Although not perfect, our initial tests revealed that they make a better soup than red lentils. We had the best results with French green lentils, called lentils du Puy. They stay particularly firm when cooked, making them ideal for soups.
Since most supermarkets don't carry French green lentils, we decided to see if we could devise a method for handling common brown lentils that would make them less likely to fall apart when cooked. Our first area of research was salt.
Many sources recommend adding salt only after the lentils have been cooked, warning that they will toughen otherwise. We wondered if adding salt at the outset might make them less likely to disintegrate. We added salt at the outset, at the halfway point, and at the end of the cooking time and found no difference in texture. However, lentils cooked in liquid that was salted at the outset tasted better, having a more developed flavor.
Several sources suggested sautéing the lentils in oil before adding liquid to strengthen the outer skins. This technique works with rice—it is used to make pilaf and risotto—and it seemed worth a try. We found that lentils cooked for a while without liquid did in fact hold up better to the simmering process. When the soup was done, sautéed lentils were firmer than lentils added directly to the liquid without prior cooking. It seems that sautéing does indeed harden the lentil's outside layer of starch, producing a soup with tender lentils that do not fall apart.
Lentil Soup
serves four to six
NOTE:
Common brown lentils work well in this recipe, although French green lentils are even better.
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 slices (about 4 ounces) bacon, diced
2 medium-large onions, chopped fine
2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped medium
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes, drained and liquid reserved
1 cup lentils, rinsed and picked through to remove any stones
1 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
3/4 cup white wine
4 cups Chicken Stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large, heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. When oil is shimmering, add bacon and stir, cooking until fat is fully rendered and bacon is crisp, 3 to 4 minutes. Add onions, carrots, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, and drained tomatoes, and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 2 minutes.
2. Stir in lentils, salt, and pepper to taste. Cover, reduce heat to medium-low, and sweat vegetables until softened, 8 to 10 minutes; lentils will become darker in color.
3. Uncover, increase heat to high, add wine, and simmer for 1 minute. Add stock, juice from canned tomatoes, and 11/2 cups water. Bring to a boil, partially cover, and reduce heat to low, simmering until lentils are cooked but still hold their shape, 30 to 35 minutes. Remove and discard bay leaf.
4. Place 3 cups soup in blender and puree until smooth. Add pureed soup back to saucepan, and stir in vinegar, if using. Serve hot.
HAM AND SPLIT PEA SOUP
WE LOVE SPLIT PEA SOUP MADE WITH ham broth; the problem is that nowadays, except for the occasional holiday, most cooks rarely buy a bone-in ham. We wondered if we could duplicate this wonderful soup without buying a huge ham.
To confirm or disprove our belief that ham broth is crucial to split pea soup, we made several pork broths and pork-enhanced canned chicken broths. In addition to making broth the old-fashioned way, from a meaty ham bone, we made broths from smoked pork necks, pork hocks (fresh and smoked), and smoked ham shanks. We also made cheater broths: kielbasa simmered in canned chicken broth, kielbasa simmered in water, bacon simmered in chicken broth, and bacon simmered in water.
Broths made with hocks—fresh as well as smoked—were more greasy than flavorful. In addition, the hocks gave up very little meat, making it necessary to purchase an additional portion of ham to fortify the soup. Ham shanks, which include the hock, made a pleasant but lightweight broth that was a tad greasy and salty—both fixable problems had we liked the broth more. Pork necks, which are not widely available, made a fairly flavorful but salty broth. All four cheater broths failed. Both the kielbasa-and bacon-enhanced chicken broths tasted strongly of overly processed meat, while the water-based versions tasted weak.
Not surprisingly, the broth made from the bone of a big ham was the winner. It was meaty and full-flavored, rich but not greasy, nicely seasoned without being overly salty, and smoky without tasting artificial. Unlike any of the other broths, this one sported bits of meat. And not just good meat—great meat. The tender pieces of ham that fell away from the bone during cooking were not just a nice byproduct of the broth. They were the glory of our split pea soup. But was there a way around buying half a ham (with an average weight of about 8 pounds) just to make a pot of soup?
After checking out the ham and smoked pork cases at several different stores, we discovered the picnic ham from the pork shoulder. Unlike the cut we generally refer to as ham, which comes from the back legs of the animal, the picnic comes from the shoulder and front legs. Smaller than a ham, the half-picnic weighs only 41/2 pounds. After making a couple more pots of soup, we found that the picnic pork shoulder—with its bones, fat, rind, and meat—made outstanding stock, and after two hours of simmering, the meat was meltingly tender yet still potently flavorful.
Since we did not need the full picnic half for our pot of soup, we pulled off and roasted two of its meatier muscles and used the remaining meat, bone, fat, and rind to make the soup. At around 99 cents a pound, a picnic shoulder is usually cheaper than a ham, and often cheaper than pork hocks, shanks, and neck bones as well. Here, we thought, was the modern solution. Rather than buy a ham for eating (and eating and eating) with a leftover bone for soup, buy a picnic for making soup, then roast the remaining couple of pounds for eating.
There are several ways to make ham and split pea soup. You can throw all the ingredients—ham bone, peas, and diced vegetables—into a pot and simmer until everything is tender. Or you can sauté the vegetables, then add the remaining ingredients, and cook the soup until the ham and peas are tender. Alternatively, you can cook the ham bone and peas (or give the ham bone a little bit of a head start) until ham and peas are tender and then add raw, sautéed, or caramelized vegetables to the pot, continuing to cook until the vegetables are tender and the flavors have blended.
Although we had hoped to make this soup a straight forward one-pot operation, we found that dumping everything in at the same time resulted in gloppy, overcooked peas and tired mushy vegetables by the time the ham was tender. For textural contrast in this smooth, creamy soup, we ultimately preferred fully—not overly—cooked vegetables.
Our best soups were those in which the vegetables spent enough time in the pot for their flavors to blend but not so long that they had lost all of their individuality. Of the soups with vegetables added toward the end of cooking, we preferred the one with the caramelized vegetables. The sweeter vegetables gave this otherwise straightforward meat and starch soup a richness and depth of flavor that made the extra step and pan worth the trouble.
Many pea soup recipes call for an acidic ingredient—vinegar, lemon juice, fortified wines such as sherry or Madeira, Worcestershire sauce, or sour cream—to bring balance to an otherwise rich, heavy soup. After tasting all of the above, we found ourselves drawn to balsamic vinegar. Unlike any of the other ingredients, balsamic vinegar's mildly sweet, mildly acidic flavor perfectly complemented the soup.
Ham and Split Pea Soup
serves six
NOTE:
Use a small 21/2-pound smoked picnic portion ham if you can find one. Otherwise, buy a half-picnic ham and remove some meat (see figures 8 and 9), which you can save for use in sandwiches, salads, or omelets.
1 piece (about 2 1/2pounds) smoked, bone-in picnic ham
4 bay leaves
1 pound (2 1/2cups) split peas, rinsed and picked through to remove any stones
1 teaspoon dried thyme
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium onions, chopped medium
2 medium carrots, chopped medium
2 medium celery stalks, chopped medium
1 tablespoon butter
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
Pinch sugar
3 small new potatoes, scrubbed and cut into medium dice
Ground black pepper
Minced red onion (optional)
Balsamic vinegar
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring 3 quarts water, ham, and bay leaves to boil, covered, over medium-high heat in large soup kettle. Reduce heat to low and simmer until meat is tender and pulls away from bone, 2 to 21/2 hours. Remove ham meat and bone from broth; add split peas and thyme and simmer until peas are tender but not dissolved, about 45 minutes. Meanwhile, when ham is cool enough to handle, shred meat into bite-sized pieces and set aside. Discard rind and bone.
2. While ham is simmering, heat oil in large skillet over high heat until shimmering. Add onions, carrots, and celery; sauté, stirring frequently, until most of the liquid evaporates and vegetables begin to brown, 5 to 6 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low; add butter, garlic, and sugar. Cook vegetables, stirring frequently, until deeply browned, 30 to 35 minutes; set aside.
3. Add sautéed vegetables, potatoes, and shredded ham to soup; simmer until potatoes are tender and peas dissolve and thicken soup to the consistency of light cream, about 20 minutes more. Remove and discard bay leaves. Season with pepper to taste. Serve hot, sprinkling red onion over bowls, if desired, and passing vinegar separately at table.
VARIATION:
Ham and Split Pea Soup with Caraway
Toast 11/2 teaspoons caraway seeds in a small skillet over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant and browned, about 4 minutes. Follow recipe for Ham and Split Pea Soup, substituting toasted caraway seeds for the dried thyme.
Figure 8.
A half-picnic ham is readily available in supermarkets but contains too much meat for a pot of soup. Our solution is to pull off several meaty sections of the ham and save the meat for sandwiches, salads, or egg dishes. With your fingers, loosen the large comma-shaped muscles on top of the picnic half.
Figure 9.
Use a knife to cut the membrane separating the comma-shaped muscles from the rest of the roast. The remaining meat and bone can be used to make soup.
NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER
WE WANTED TO DEVELOP A DELICIOUS, traditional chowder that was economical, would not curdle, and could be prepared quickly. Before testing recipes, we explored our clam options. Because chowders are typically made with hard-shell clams, we purchased a variety (from smallest to largest): cockles, littlenecks, cherrystones, and chowder clams, often called quahogs.
Although littlenecks and cockles made delicious chowders, we eliminated them; both were just too expensive to toss into a chowder pot. Chowders made with the cheapest clams, however, weren't really satisfactory, either. The quahogs we purchased for testing were large (four to five inches in diameter), tough, and strong-flavored. Their oversized bellies (and the contents therein) gave the chowder an overbearing mineral taste that frustrated our efforts to develop a smooth, rich flavor.
Though only a little more expensive, cherrystones offer good value and flavor. The chowder made from these slightly smaller clams was distinctly clam-flavored, without an inky aftertaste. Because there are no industry sizing standards for each clam variety, you may find some small quahogs labeled as cherrystones or large cherrystones labeled as quahogs. No matter what their designation, clams much over three inches in diameter will deliver a distinctly metallic chowder.
Steaming clams open is far easier than shucking them. Five minutes over simmering water, and the clams open as naturally as a budding flower. Ours did not toughen up as long as we pulled them from the pot as soon as they opened and didn't let them cook too long in the finished chowder.
The extra step of purging, or filtering, hard-shell clams is unnecessary. All of the hard-shells we tested were relatively clean, and what little sediment there was sank to the bottom of the steaming liquid. Getting rid of the grit was as simple as leaving the last few tablespoons of broth in the pan when pouring it from the pot. If you find that your clam broth is gritty, strain it through a coffee filter.
Older recipes call for thickening clam chowder with crumbled biscuits; bread crumbs and crackers are modern stand-ins. Standard chowders thickened with bread crumbs or crackers failed to impress. We wanted a smooth, creamy soup base for the potatoes, onions, and clams, but no matter how long the chowder was simmered, neither the bread crumbs nor the crackers ever completely dissolved into the cooking liquid. Heavy cream alone, by contrast, did not give the chowder enough body. We discovered fairly quickly that flour would be necessary, not only as a thickener but as a stabilizer; unthickened chowders separate and curdle.
Because chowders call for potatoes, some cooks suggest that starchy baking potatoes, which tend to break down when boiled, can double as a thickener. We found that the potatoes did not break down sufficiently but instead simply became mushy. Red boiling potatoes are best for chowders.
Should the chowder be enriched with milk or cream? We found that so much milk was required to make it look and taste creamy that the chowder started to lose its clam flavor, becoming more like mild bisque or the clam equivalent of oyster stew. Making the chowder with almost all clam broth (five cups of the cooking liquid from the steaming clams) and then finishing it with a cup of cream gave us what we were looking for—a rich, creamy chowder that tasted distinctly of clams.
New England Clam Chowder
serves six
NOTE:
You can replace the bacon with 4 ounces of salt pork.
7 pounds medium-sized hard-shell clams, such as cherrystones, washed and scrubbed clean
4 slices thick-cut bacon (about 4 ounces), cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 large Spanish onion, diced medium
2 tablespoons flour
3 medium red potatoes (about 1 1/2pounds), scrubbed and diced medium
1 large bay leaf
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or 1/4teaspoon dried thyme
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black or white pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring clams and 3 cups water to boil in large, covered stockpot. Steam until clams just start to open (see figure 10), 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer clams to large bowl; cool slightly. Open clams with a paring knife, holding clams over bowl to catch any juices. With knife, sever muscle that attaches clam to shell (see figure 11); transfer meat to cutting board. Mince clams; set aside. Pour clam broth into 2-quart Pyrex measuring cup, holding back last few tablespoons broth in case of sediment; set clam broth aside. (You should have about 5 cups.) Rinse and dry pot; return to burner.
2. Fry bacon in pot over medium-low heat until fat renders and bacon crisps, 5 to 7 minutes. Add onion to bacon; sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add flour; stir until lightly colored, about 1 minute. Gradually whisk in reserved clam juice. Add potatoes, bay leaf, and thyme; simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Add clams, cream, parsley, and salt (if necessary) and pepper to taste; bring to simmer. Remove from heat and serve immediately.
VARIATION:
Quick Pantry Clam Chowder
If you're short on time or find clams to be scarce and expensive, we've found that the right canned clams and bottled clam juice can deliver a chowder that's at least three notches above canned soup in quality. We tested seven brands of minced and small whole canned clams. We preferred Doxsee Minced Clams teamed with Doxsee brand clam juice. Doxsee clams were neither too tough nor too tender, and they had a decent, natural, clam flavor.
Follow recipe for New England Clam Chowder, substituting for fresh clams 4 cans (6.5 ounces each) minced clams, juice drained and reserved, plus 1 cup water and 2 bottles (8 ounces each) clam juice. Add clam juice and meat at points when fresh clam juice and meat would be added.
Figure 11.
Carefully use a paring knife to open clams, holding each over a bowl to catch the juices. When open, discard the top shell and use the knife to sever the muscle that connects the clams to the bottom shell.
STEW BASICS
GOOD STEW IS HARD TO BEAT. WHEN successful, stew is one of those dishes that is more than the sum of its parts. Slow, long cooking transforms proteins, vegetables, and liquids into a hearty, rugged dish that is satisfying and intensely flavored.
So what exactly is stew and how does it differ from soup or a braise? There is some disagreement in the food world, but for our purposes a stew is small chunks of meat, chicken, seafood, and/or vegetables cooked in liquid, which is usually thickened and served as a sauce. A stew is a one-dish meal that can be eaten with a fork and without a knife.
Soup may contain the same ingredients (small bits of protein and vegetables in a liquid base), but it contains much more liquid than a stew and the liquid is generally not thickened. Soup is eaten with a spoon.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is a braise, which usually contains less liquid than a stew and the protein and vegetables are cut into much larger pieces or even left whole, as in a pot roast. The meat in a braise often contains bones (stews are usually boneless) and the vegetables are more for flavoring the meat and juices than for eating. Finally, a braise is eaten with a fork but usually requires a knife as well.
Stews and braises do have a number of elements in common—the aromatic vegetables (as well as the meat and chicken) are usually browned and the cooking temperature must be low. Browning is important because it develops flavor. The sugars in the vegetables (and the meat and chicken) caramelize in a process known as the Maillard reaction. Deglazing the pan with wine or stock loosens flavorful browned bits from the bottom of the pan, which in turn dissolve and flavor the stew liquid.
Contrary to popular belief, browning does not seal in juices in stew meat. As the internal temperature of the meat rises, more and more juices are expelled. By the time the meat is fork-tender, it has shed most of its juices. As odd it sounds, this is the beauty of a stew or braise because the surrounding liquid, which will be served as a sauce, is enriched by these juices.
Stew meat remains edible because slow-cooking turns the collagen and connective tissue found in tough cuts of meat, such as the beef shoulder or chicken thighs, into gelatin. This gelatin makes meat tender; it also helps thicken the stew liquid. The same thing happens when these tough cuts are barbecued or slow-roasted. Prolonged low-temperature cooking allows the connective tissue to break down and makes the meat tender.
The main difference between slow-roasting and stewing is that in stewing the exterior of the meat is less likely to dry out and overcook in the liquid. That's because the temperature of the stewing or braising liquid cannot exceed 212 degrees, or the boiling point. This ceiling limits the rate at which the meat can cook.
In our testing, we found that the temperature of the stewing liquid is crucial when certain ingredients are stewed. We found it is essential to keep the temperature of the liquid below 212 degrees when stewing meat or chicken. If either is boiled, it stays tough and the outside becomes especially dry. Keeping the liquid at a simmer (rather than a boil) allows the internal temperature of the meat to rise slowly. By the time it is actually fork-tender, much of the collagen will have turned to gelatin.
We have found that putting a covered Dutch oven in a 250-degree oven ensures that the temperature of the stewing liquid will remain below the boiling point, at about 200 degrees. (Ovens are not totally effective at transferring heat; a temperature of 250 degrees recognizes that some heat will be lost as it penetrates through the pot and into the stew.)
The temperature of the liquid is crucial when making fish stew, but for a different reason. Since fish is so delicate and cooks so quickly, it is added to stews just before serving. (The deep seafood flavor comes from the stock, not the fish itself used in the stew.) We find it best to cook the fish for a few minutes in the liquid, then turn off the burner and cover the pot. The fish finishes cooking in the residual heat and is less likely to become dry or fall apart.
When making vegetable stews, temperature is not nearly as important since the main goal is to soften the vegetables to an appealing texture. You don't want to boil a vegetable stew so furiously that the vegetables fall apart. A brisk simmer is fine for all-vegetable stews.
INGREDIENTS FOR MAKING STEW
The meat, chicken, seafood, and/or vegetables are the most important ingredients in any stew. Buying the right cuts and preparing them for stewing are discussed in the appropriate chapters.
In addition to the "main ingredients," there are a number of supporting ingredients that appear again and again in recipes throughout this book. These ingredients are the basis for the sauce that surrounds the main stew ingredients. In particular, we find the choice of canned broth, canned tomatoes, and wine to be important when making a stew.
BROTH Homemade stock makes delicious stews. However, with the exception of fish stews, we find that canned products will work quite well and they greatly simplify the process. (Fish stew can be made with doctored-up bottled clam juice, with some sacrifice in flavor.) There is no reason not to use homemade stock if you have some on hand, but beef, chicken, lamb, pork, and vegetable stews will taste just fine if made with a carefully selected canned broth.
You might think that meat stews, especially those with beef, would taste better when made with canned beef broth. However, canned beef broths simply do not deliver full-bodied, beefy flavor. We tested 11 commercial beef broths and bouillon cubes. Some had a subtle suggestion of beef, but most begged the question, "Where's the beef?"
Current government regulations require that beef broth need only contain 1 part protein to 135 parts moisture. That translates to less than one ounce of meat to flavor a gallon of water. Most manufacturers use salt, monosodium glutamate (MSG), and yeast-based hydrolyzed soy protein to give this watery concoction some flavor and mouthfeel. Does any canned beef broth or powdered beef bouillon cube taste like the real thing? Our panel shouted a resounding no.
By comparison, canned chicken broths are far superior. While they rarely taste like homemade stock, several of the 11 brands that we tested had some decent chicken flavor. In stews, even those made with beef, we found that canned chicken broth is superior to canned beef broth. So which canned broths do we recommend? In our tasting, reduced-sodium and low-sodium broths made by Campbell's and Swanson (both brands are owned by the same company) topped the list.
TOMATOES Chopped tomatoes are used in many stews in place of wine to add an acidic element, color, and flavor. We find that canned tomatoes are easier to work with than fresh (which would have to be peeled before chopping) and their flavor is usually better. If you have some very good ripe tomatoes on hand and don't mind peeling them, go ahead and use them. However, canned tomatoes are fine for every recipe in this book.
Our favorite canned tomato product is Muir Glen Diced Tomatoes. These tomatoes are convenient to use, since they have already been chopped, and the flavor is especially fresh and bright with a good balance of sweet and acid flavors. Whole canned tomatoes can be used as well. Simply remove the tomatoes from their liquid, chop, and measure. When buying canned whole tomatoes, we recommend choosing brands packed in tomato juice, not tomato puree. The puree gives the tomato a cooked flavor that we don't generally like. In our testing of leading brands, Muir Glen and Progresso whole tomatoes came out on top.
WINE We found in our testing that the quality of the wine used in a stew matters. "Cooking wine"—the dreadful, usually oxidized stuff sold in supermarkets—does not cut it when it comes to a stew that relies on wine for much of its flavor. However, there is no reason to overcompensate. Pouring a $30 bottle of good burgundy or Cabernet Sauvignon into the pot is not advisable either. We found that as long as the wine tastes good enough to drink, it will make delicious stew. Therefore, we recommend inexpensive, young wines in the $7 to $9 range when making stew. In general, fruity reds such as Chianti, zinfandel, young cabernets from California, and many of the hearty wines from southern France are best in stew. As for white wines, avoid those which are very dry or heavily oaked. A crisp, fruity Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc, or a young Chardonnay is ideal.
EQUIPMENT FOR MAKING STEW
Other than some spoons and ladles, stew making doesn't require much in the way of equipment. Of course, you need a cutting board and some knives to chop ingredients, but otherwise the focus is on the pot.
We found that a Dutch oven (also called a lidded casserole) is almost essential for making a stew. You can try to use a large pasta pot or soup kettle, but these pots are probably too narrow and tall. Also, many are quite light, thin, and cheap—designed to heat up water quickly but not meant for browning. Since most stew recipes begin by browning to develop flavor, it's imperative to use a pot with a heavy bottom.
A Dutch oven (see figure 1) is nothing more than a wide, deep pot with a cover. It was originally manufactured with "ears" on the side (small, round tabs used to pick up the pot) and a top that had a lip around the edge. The latter design element was important because a Dutch oven was heated through coals placed both underneath and on top of the pot. The lip kept the coals on the lid from falling off. One could bake biscuits, cobblers, beans, and stews in this pot. It was, in the full sense of the word, an oven. This oven was a key feature of chuck wagons and essential in many American homes where all cooking occurred in the fireplace. As for the word "Dutch," it seems that the best cast iron came from Holland and the pots were therefore referred to as Dutch ovens.
Now that everyone in America has an oven, the Dutch oven is no longer used to bake biscuits or cobblers. However, it is essential for dishes that start on top of the stove and finish in the oven, like stew. In order to make some recommendations about buying a modern Dutch oven, we tested 12 models made by leading cookware companies.
In our testing, we found that a Dutch oven should have a capacity of at least six quarts to be useful. (Eight quarts is even better.) As we cooked in the pots, we came to prefer wider and shallower Dutch ovens because they make it easier to check the progress of the cooking. They also offer more bottom surface to accommodate larger batches of meat for browning. This reduces the number of batches required to brown a given quantity of meat, and with it, the chances of burning the flavorful pan drippings. Ideally, a Dutch oven should have a diameter twice as wide as its height.
We also preferred pots with a light-colored interior finish, such as stainless steel or enameled cast iron. It is easier to judge the caramelization of the drippings at a glance in these pots. Dark finishes can mask the color of the drippings, which may burn before you realize it. Our favorite pot is the eight-quart All-Clad Stainless Stockpot (despite the name, this pot is a Dutch oven). The seven-quart Le Creuset Round French Oven, which is made of enameled cast-iron, also tested well. These pots are quite expensive, costing at least $150, even when on sale. The seven-quart Lodge Dutch Oven is made from cast-iron. It is extremely heavy (making it a bit hard to maneuver) and it must be seasoned regularly. The dark interior finish is also not ideal. But is browns ingredients quite well and costs just $45.
Figure 1.
The ideal Dutch oven is twice as wide as it is high. It also should have handles on both sides (to make it easy to lift the pot in and out of the oven) as well as a lid with a handle. Since this pot often goes into the oven, make sure that the handles are ovenproof.
MEAT STEWS
MEAT STEWS, MADE WITH BEEF, LAMB, or pork, should be rich and satisfying. Our goal in developing a master recipe for meat stew was to keep the cooking process simple without compromising the stew's deep, complex flavor.
At the outset, we made several decisions. We tried several recipes with homemade meat stock. They were delicious but require much more effort than stews made with canned broth or other liquids. At the other extreme, we rejected recipes that call for dumping meat, vegetables, and liquid into a pot to simmer for a couple of hours. Browning the meat and some of the vegetables, especially onions, adds flavor, and this step is too important to skip.
We focused on the following issues: What cut or cuts of meat respond best to stewing? Is it the same cut from different animals? How much and what kind of liquid should you use? When and with what do you thicken the stew? And where should the stew be cooked, in the oven or on top of the stove, or does it matter?
We decided to start our tests with beef and then see if our findings held true for lamb and pork. We sampled 12 different cuts of beef (see figure 2). We browned each, marked them for identification, and stewed them in the same pot. Chuck proved to be the most flavorful, tender, and juicy. Most other cuts were either too stringy, too chewy, too dry, or just plain bland. The exception was rib eye steak, which made good stew meat but is too expensive a cut to use for this purpose.
Our advice is to buy a steak or roast from the chuck and cube it yourself instead of buying precut stewing beef. The reason is simple: Prepackaged stewing beef is often made up of irregularly shaped end pieces from different muscles that cannot be sold retail as steaks or roasts because of their uneven appearance. Because of the differences in origin, precut stewing cubes in the same package may have inconsistent cooking, flavor, and tenderness qualities. If you cut your own cubes from a piece of chuck, you are assured that all the cubes will cook in the same way and have the flavor and richness of chuck.
The names given to different cuts of chuck vary, but the most commonly used names for retail chuck cuts include boneless chuck-eye roasts, cross-rib roasts, blade steaks and roasts, shoulder steaks and roasts, and arm steaks and roasts. We particularly liked chuck-eye roast in our testing, but all chuck cuts were delicious when cubed and stewed.
So why does chuck make the best stew? The intramuscular fat and connective tissue in chuck is well suited to long, slow, moist cooking. When cooked in liquid, the connective tissue melts down into gelatin, making the meat juicy and tender. The fat helps, too, in two important ways. Fat carries the chemical compounds that our taste buds receive as beef flavor, and it also melts when cooked, lubricating the meat fibers as it slips between the cells, increasing tenderness.
With our cut of beef settled, we started to explore how and when to thicken the stew. We tried several thickening methods and found most acceptable, with the exception of quick-cooking tapioca, which produced a slimy and gelatinous stew. Dredging meat cubes in flour is another roundabout way of thickening stew. The floured beef is browned, then stewed. During the stewing process, some of the flour from the beef dissolves into the liquid, causing it to thicken. Although the stew we cooked this way thickened up nicely, the beef cubes had a "smothered steak" look: The flour coating had browned, not the meat. This coating often fell off during cooking to expose pale and therefore less flavorful meat.
We also tried two thickening methods at the end of cooking—a beurre manié (softened butter mixed with flour) and cornstarch mixed with water. Either method is acceptable, but the beurre manié lightened the stew's color, making it look more like pale gravy than rich stew juices. Also, the extra fat did not improve the stew's flavor enough to justify it. For those who prefer thickening at the end of cooking, we found cornstarch dissolved in water did the job without compromising the stew's dark, rich color.
Pureeing the cooking vegetables is another thickening method. Once the stew is fully cooked, the meat is pulled from the pot and the juices and vegetables are pureed to create a thick sauce. We felt this thickening method made the vegetable flavor too prominent.
Ultimately, we opted for thickening the stew with flour at the beginning—stirring it into the sautéing onions and garlic, right before adding the liquid. Stew thickened this way did not taste any better, but it was easier to make. There's no last-minute work; once the liquid starts to simmer, the cook is free to do something else.
We next focused on stewing liquids. We tried water, wine, low-sodium canned beef broth, low-sodium chicken broth, as well as combinations of these liquids. Stews made with water were bland and greasy. Stews made with all wine were too strong. All stock was good, but we missed the acidity and flavor provided by the wine. In the end, we preferred a combination of chicken stock and red wine. (In general, we think canned chicken stock tastes better than canned beef stock; see Broth for more information.)
We tested various amounts of liquid and found that we preferred stews with a minimum of liquid, as this preserves a strong meat flavor. With too little liquid, however, the stew may not cook evenly and there may not be enough stew "sauce" to spoon over starchy accompaniments. A cup of liquid per pound of meat gave us sufficient sauce to moisten a mound of mashed potatoes or polenta without drowning them.
We tested various kinds of wine and found that fairly inexpensive fruity, full-bodied young wines, such as Chianti, zinfandel, or cabernets were best. (See Wine for more information on wine.)
In order to determine when to add the vegetables, we made three different stews, adding carrots, potatoes, and onions to one stew at the beginning of cooking and to another stew halfway through the cooking process. For our final stew, we cooked the onions with the meat but added steamed carrots and potatoes when the stew was fully cooked.
The stew with vegetables added at the beginning was thin and watery. The vegetables had fallen apart and given up their flavor and liquid to the stew. The beef stew with the cooked vegetables added at the last minute was delicious and the vegetables were the freshest and most intensely flavored. However, it is more work to steam the vegetables separately. Also, vegetables cooked separately from the stew don't really meld all that well with the other flavors and ingredients. We prefer to add the vegetables partway through the cooking process. They don't fall apart this way and they still have enough time to meld with the other stew ingredients. There is one exception to this rule. Peas should be added just before serving the stew to preserve their fresh color and texture.
Our recipe was now complete and we only had to fiddle with the cooking times and temperatures. We focused on low-temperature cooking methods, since we already knew that high heat toughens and dries out meat. We cooked stews on the stovetop over low heat (with and without a flame-taming device) and in a 250-degree oven. (You want to maintain a simmer in the pot, with temperatures staying below the boiling point, 212 degrees, so that the meat does not become tough and dry.)
The flame-tamer device worked too well and the stew juices tasted raw and boozy. Putting the pot right on the burner worked better, but we had the most consistent results in the oven. We found ourselves constantly adjusting the burner to maintain a gentle simmer and this method is prone to error. Cooking in a 250-degree oven ensures a constant level of heat.
Regardless of whether you cook the stew on the stovetop or in the oven, the meat passes from the tough to tender stage fairly quickly. Often at the 21/2-hour mark the meat would still be chewy. Fifteen minutes later it would be tender. Let the stew go another 15 minutes and the meat starts to dry out.
With a recipe using beef chuck developed, we wondered if the same technique and ingredients would work with other meats. We tested various cuts of pork and lamb and found that shoulder cuts respond best to stewing. Like chuck, these cuts have enough fat to keep the meat tender and juicy during the long cooking process.
Pork shoulder is often called Boston butt or Boston shoulder in markets. We generally bought a boneless Boston butt or pork shoulder roast (see figure 3) and cut it into cubes ourselves. A lamb shoulder roast can be hard to find. We often bought inexpensive bone-in lamb shoulder chops (see figure 4) and cut the meat off the bone and into chunks.
For the most part, the beef recipe worked fine with these cuts of pork and lamb. However, lamb tends to cook a bit more quickly. Beef and pork require a total cooking time of 21/2 to 3 hours. Lamb needs just 2 to 21/2 hours to soften up. All times will vary depending on the addition of slow-cooking vegetables, such as potatoes and carrots, as the meat cooks.
Figure 2.
We stewed 12 different cuts of beef from every part of the cow.
Chuck, which consists of the underblade and top blade, was the most flavorful and cooked up quite tender. Since chuck is far less expensive, it is our first choice for stewing.
Figure 3.
We found that pork cuts from the shoulder of the pig are best for stewing. These cuts have enough fat (the loin, for instance, is much too lean for stewing) to keep the meat moist as it cooks. We recommend buying a boneless Boston butt (also called a pork shoulder blade Boston roast) or a picnic roast (also called a pork shoulder arm picnic roast) and cutting the roast into 1 1/2-inch cubes yourself
(see figure 5). A bone-in roast can be used but will require more effort to prepare. You may also buy pork stew meat, but the pieces are likely to be irregularly sized and can come from various parts of the animal.
Figure 4.
It's very hard to find boneless lamb shoulder in markets. You might see the whole shoulder, but this cut is difficult to bone out. You can buy lamb meat for stew or, better yet, buy thick shoulder chops, remove the meat from the bone, and cut it into large cubes. There are two kinds of shoulder chops. The blade chop is roughly rectangular in shape and contains a piece of the chine bone and a thin piece of the blade bone. The arm, or round bone, chop is leaner and contains a cross-section of the arm bone. Arm chops are easier to work with, and we suggest buying about 5 1/2pounds of chop to yield 3 pounds of stew meat.
Figure 5.
To get stew meat pieces that are cut from the right part of the animal and regularly shaped, we suggest buying a boneless roast and cutting the meat into cubes yourself. Here, we are cutting a boneless chuck roast into 1 1/2-inch cubes, making sure to remove excess bits of fat or gristle from each piece of meat.
Master Recipe
Meat Stew
NOTE: Make this stew in a large, ovenproof Dutch oven, preferably a pot with a capacity of 8 quarts but nothing less then 6 quarts. In either case, choose a Dutch oven with a wide bottom since it will allow you to brown the meat in two batches. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds beef chuck, lamb shoulder, or pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes (see figure 5)
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup full-bodied red wine
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
4 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 cup frozen peas (about 6 ounces), thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place beef cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of meat and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and meat.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 1 hour.
3. Remove pot from oven and add potatoes and carrots. Cover and return to oven. Cook just until meat is tender, 1 to 11/2 hours for lamb and 11/2 to 2 hours for beef and pork. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Add peas, cover, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Beef Stew with Bacon, Mushrooms, and Pearl Onions
NOTE:
This hearty stew is our version of boeuf bourguignon. It calls for equal amounts of red wine and chicken stock. Instead of frozen pearl onions, you can use fresh pearl onions (prepared accoording to the instructions in figures 6, 7 and 8). This stew is delicious over mashed potatoes. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
11/2 cups full-bodied red wine
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 pound white button mushrooms, quartered
1 cup (8 ounces) frozen pearl onions, cooked according to package directions
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place beef cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Fry bacon in large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium heat until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Drain bacon, reserving bits and drippings separately. Increase heat to medium-high and heat 2 tablespoons bacon drippings in Dutch oven. Add half of meat and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with another tablespoon of bacon drippings and remaining meat.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and bacon bits return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook until meat is almost tender, 2 to 21/2 hours.
3. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons bacon drippings in large skillet. Add mushrooms and sauté over high heat until browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer mushrooms to large bowl. Add cooked pearl onions and sauté until lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add onions to bowl with mushrooms.
4. Add mushrooms and onions to stew when meat is almost tender. Cover and return pot to oven. Cook until meat is completely tender, 20 to 30 minutes. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
5. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Figure 6.
To prepare fresh pearl onions, start by cutting off a tiny bit of the root end with a small paring knife.
Figure 7.
To keep the onions from falling apart, cut an X in the exposed root end of each onion. This will allow the layers to expand but still hold together when sautéed.
Figure 8.
We find it easier to peel fresh pearl onions after they have been blanched in boiling water for 30 seconds. Drain the onions and, when they are cool enough to handle, simply slip off the skins.
Beef Goulash
NOTE:
The sour cream is optional but adds a nice color and richness. Serve over egg noodles. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
6 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup white wine
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1/2 cup sour cream
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place beef cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Fry bacon in large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium heat until golden brown, about 7 minutes. Drain bacon, reserving bits and drippings separately. Increase heat to medium-high and heat 2 tablespoons bacon drippings in Dutch oven. Add half of meat and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with another tablespoon of bacon drippings and remaining meat.
2. Add onions and red bell pepper to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in paprika and flour; cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 1 hour.
3. Remove pot from oven and add carrots. Cover and return to oven. Cook just until meat is tender, 11/2 to 2 hours. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Stir in parsley and sour cream, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve. Once sour cream has been added, do not let stew simmer or boil or sour cream will curdle.
Belgian Beef Stew with Beer
NOTE:
This famed Belgian stew, called carbonnade, uses beer for the cooking liquid. We found that an amber-colored ale, such as Pete's Wicked Ale or Anchor Steam Ale, gave the stew the richest flavor without any harshness. Traditionally, carbonnade contains just beef, onions, and beer for an intensely flavored stew. We found that brown sugar mellows the flavor of the beer, vinegar sharpens the other flavors, and mustard gives the broth some spice. The stew is delicious served over egg noodles. Since this stew does not contain any root vegetables, it can also be served over mashed potatoes or any root vegetable puree. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds beef chuck, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds onions, thinly sliced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
11/2 cups amber-colored ale
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon cider vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place beef cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of beef and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and beef.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté, stirring frequently until onions release their liquid and in essence deglaze the pan, 10 to 12 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; cook until liquid evaporates, drippings begin to brown, and onions become quite dark, about 15 to 20 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add ale, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, thyme, brown sugar, and vinegar, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook just until meat is tender, 2 to 21/2 hours. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
3. Stir in mustard and parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Irish Stew
NOTE:
Lamb stew is a favorite dish in Ireland. The broth is made with all stock (no wine), and potatoes and carrots are the most typical vegetables. Without the wine, the stew liquid is particularly meaty. Adding a little Worcestershire sauce intensifies the meatiness of the stew. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 3 cups)
3 tablespoons flour
3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
6 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch dice
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place lamb cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of lamb and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and lamb.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add 1 cup stock, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add remaining stock, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 1 hour.
3. Remove pot from oven and add potatoes and carrots. Cover and return to oven. Cook just until meat is tender, 1 to 11/2 hours. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Lamb Stew with Tomatoes, Chickpeas, and Spices
NOTE:
In this North African stew, canned tomatoes take the place of the wine. Because no vegetables are added partway through the cooking process, the total stewing time for the lamb is reduced to about 2 hours. Serve this stew over couscous. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
11/2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
2 bay leaves
11/2 teaspoons ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
3/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1 15-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley or cilantro leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place lamb cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of lamb and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and lamb.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add stock, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add tomatoes, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, ginger, and bay leaves, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook just until meat is almost tender, 13/4 to 21/4 hours.
3. Remove pot from oven and add chickpeas. Cover and return pot to oven and cook until meat is tender and chickpeas are heated through, about 15 minutes. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Lamb Stew with Rosemary and White Beans
NOTE:
In this Italian stew, cannellini or other white beans take the place of the potatoes. Rosemary is used in place of the thyme. Since this dish contains beans, it can be served as is, or perhaps with some bread, but it does not require any other starch. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds lamb shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup white wine
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 3/8-inch dice
1 15-ounce can white beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place lamb cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of lamb and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and lamb.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, and rosemary, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 1 hour.
3. Remove pot from oven and add carrots. Cover and return to oven. Cook just until meat is almost tender, 1 to 11/4 hours. Remove pot from oven and add white beans. Cover and return pot to oven and cook until meat is tender and beans are heated through, about 15 minutes. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Pork Stew with Prunes, Mustard, and Cream
NOTE:
This French stew features prunes soaked in brandy. The liquid is enriched with cream. If you like, use Armagnac in place of the brandy. Ladle this stew over buttered noodles. Serves six to eight.
6 ounces prunes, halved and soaked in 1/3 cup brandy, until softened, about 20 minutes
3 pounds pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 2 cups)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1 cup white wine
2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 cup heavy cream
3 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place pork cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of pork and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and pork.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaves, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 2 hours.
3. Add prunes, brandy, and cream. Cover and return to oven. Cook just until meat is tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
4. Stir in mustard and parsley, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Pork Vindaloo
NOTE:
This Indian dish of Portuguese ancestry relies on tomatoes instead of wine as part of the liquid base. Pair this stew with steamed rice, preferably basmati rice. Serves six to eight.
3 pounds pork shoulder, trimmed and cut into 11/2-inch cubes
11/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 medium-large onions, chopped coarse (about 3 cups)
8 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
11/2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon mustard seeds
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 250 degrees. Place pork cubes in large bowl. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; toss to coat. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of pork and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove meat and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining oil and pork.
2. Add onions to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour, paprika, cumin, cardamom, cayenne, and cloves, and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add stock, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add tomatoes, bay leaves, sugar, vinegar, and mustard seeds, and bring to a simmer. Add meat and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook just until meat is tender, about 21/2 hours. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
3. Stir in cilantro, discard bay leaves, adjust seasonings, and serve.
CHICKEN STEWS
CHICKEN STEW IS A BIT HARD TO DEFINE. Say beef stew and most everyone can imagine large, boneless chunks of browned beef floating in a rich, dark sauce along with some vegetables. But what exactly is chicken stew? Is it a cut-up chicken that is browned and then braised? Is it a cut-up chicken that is stewed (to make homemade broth) and then cooled in order to tear the meat from the bones? Is it boneless breasts or thighs cut into chunks and browned and stewed like beef?
We started with a whole chicken that was cut up, browned, and then simmered in water to make stock. The liquid was strained and the meat was removed from the breasts, legs, and thighs. Like meat stew, this preparation produced a stew without bones, and the homemade stock was a nice bonus. But the dish required a lot of effort (pulling the meat off each piece is very tedious) and the results were good but not great.
Our next thought was to follow our master recipe for meat stew but use a cut-up chicken instead of cubes of boneless beef, lamb, or pork. We browned the chicken parts, removed them from the pot, sautéed some aromatic vegetables, deglazed the pot with some wine, added stock, slow-cooking vegetables, and the chicken, and simmered until everything was tender. We encountered several problems with this method. The skin is nice and crisp after browning but becomes flabby and not very appealing after stewing in liquid for the necessary half hour or so. In addition, the wings are very unappetizing—they contain mostly inedible skin and very little meat. Also, the breast pieces were way too large to fit into a bowl (each piece would have to be cut in half crosswise) and they had dried out during the stewing process.
We tried this recipe again using just breasts and legs. We cut the split breasts in half, browned all the parts, pulled off the skin, and then added the legs to the stew followed by the breasts. Although the breasts were less dry and stringy, we felt that the dark meat pieces, with their extra fat and connective tissue, were better suited to stewing. They had much more flavor and their texture was more appealing. In addition, our tasters preferred the meatier thighs to the drumsticks, which tend to have more bone. The thighs are also easier to eat than the drumsticks, with the meat easily separating from the bones. We decided to abandon the breasts and drumsticks and concentrate on a stew made with thighs only.
This last test had revealed something interesting about the thighs. Removing the skin after the parts were browned was a must. The stew liquid was much less fatty, and since the skin was very soft and flabby and not really edible, there seemed little reason to serve it to people. We wondered if we should just start with boneless, skinless thighs—it certainly would be easier to eat a stew without bones. Unfortunately, when we browned boneless, skinless thighs, the outer layer of meat became tough and dry. Also, the skinless thighs tended to stick to the pan, even when we added quite a bit of oil. The skin acts as a cushion between the meat and pan.
We had decided on the style of chicken stew and for the most part liked the master recipe for meat stew adapted to chicken. But we found that we could not simply take the meat stew recipe wholesale and just add chicken instead of beef, lamb, or pork.
First of all, meat stews often taste best with red wine. Chicken generally matches up better with white wine. Also, because chicken requires less cooking time, we found that a stew made with one cup of wine and two cups of stock (as suggested in our meat stew recipes) was too alcoholic. Cutting the wine back to half a cup and increasing the stock by a half a cup keeps the stew from being too boozy. We also found that chicken's milder flavor calls for less aggressive seasoning. Therefore, we used one less bay leaf and half as much thyme as in our meat stew recipe.
Like meat stew, chicken stew responds best to subboiling temperatures, which are easier to maintain in a low oven. However, when we put the chicken in a 250-degree oven it took almost the entire cooking time for the liquid to come up to temperature. We raised the oven temperature to 300 degrees and found that the stew was ready 30 minutes after the chicken was added to the liquid. Although this higher temperature would eventually cause the stew temperature to rise to the boiling point, we found that the temperature was just about 200 degrees when the chicken was done.
Because chicken requires so much less time to cook than meat, vegetables are added before the chicken, not after. For instance, the carrots and potatoes get a 10-minute head start on the chicken so that they will be tender by the time the chicken is cooked through.
Master Recipe
Chicken Stew
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 large onion, chopped coarse
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup white wine
21/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
4 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup frozen peas (about 6 ounces), thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of chicken, skin side down, and brown, about 4 minutes. Turn chicken and brown on other side, about 4 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining chicken. Drain and discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from pot. When chicken has cooled, remove and discard skin (see figure 9).
2. Add onion to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaf, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Add carrots and potatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Add chicken, submerging it in liquid, and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
3. Add peas, cover, and let to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Figure 9
Once the chicken thighs have been browned and cooled, grasp the skin from one end and pull to separate the skin from the meat. Discard the skin.
Chicken Stew with Leeks, Potatoes, and Saffron
NOTE:
Saffron gives this stew a yellow-orange hue and a rich, earthy flavor. Buy saffron threads (not powder) and crumble them yourself for the best flavor. Serves six to eight.
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 large leeks, light green and white parts, sliced thin
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup white wine
21/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/2-inch thick
4 medium boiling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of chicken, skin side down, and brown, about 4 minutes. Turn chicken and brown on other side, about 4 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining chicken. Drain and discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from pot. When chicken has cooled, remove and discard skin.
2. Add leeks to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook until lightly colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, bay leaf, and thyme, and bring to a simmer. Crumble saffron threads between fingers right over pot to release flavor (see figure 10). Add carrots and potatoes and simmer for 10 minutes. Add chicken, submerging it in liquid, and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
3. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Country Captain Chicken Stew
NOTE:
A Southern favorite. We like this curried chicken stew with fresh mangoes rather than the usual mango chutney. Rice is a good accompaniment to this stew. Serves six to eight.
8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs (about 3 pounds)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 large onions, chopped coarse
1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and chopped
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
11/2 tablespoons sweet paprika
1 tablespoon curry powder
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
3 tablespoons flour
11/2 cups chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
11/2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
1 bay leaf
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 cup raisins
1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oven to 300 degrees. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add half of chicken, skin side down, and brown, about 4 minutes. Turn chicken and brown on other side, about 4 minutes. Remove chicken and set aside on plate. Repeat process with remaining chicken. Drain and discard all but 1 tablespoon fat from pot. When chicken has cooled, remove and discard skin.
2. Add onions and bell pepper to empty Dutch oven and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Stir in paprika, curry powder, and cayenne and cook until spices are fragrant, about 30 seconds. Stir in flour and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add stock, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add tomatoes, bay leaf, thyme, raisins, and mango, and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 10 minutes to blend flavors. Add chicken, submerging it in liquid, and return to a simmer. Cover and place pot in oven. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove pot from oven. (Can be cooled, covered, and refrigerated up to 3 days. Reheat on top of the stove.)
3. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
SEAFOOD STEWS
FIND A COUNTRY THAT HAS A COASTLINE, AND you will find a fish stew in the culinary repertoire. Whatever their geographic origin, fish stews are surprisingly easy for home cooks to prepare. Most recipes begin by making stock. The next step is to make a flavor base. The stock is added and then the fish.
Although the process is straightforward, we had a number of questions. Is fish stock essential? If so, what kinds of fish make the best stock? What ingredients are essential in the flavor base and which are optional? What kinds of fish respond best to stewing? What size should the pieces of fish be? How long should they cook?
We started our testing by making a favorite fish stew with homemade fish stock, water, chicken stock, and a "cheater's" stock that started with bottled clam juice. The stew made with homemade fish stock was far superior. Unlike meat or chicken stews, where the protein simmers for some time in the stew, fish can cook for only a few minutes or it will dry out and fall apart. Since the fish does not have time to flavor the stew liquid, the liquid must start out tasting good. Water made a horrible fish stew. Chicken stock tasted too much like chicken. Bottled clam juice, doctored up with some fresh ingredients, is our second choice if making fish stock is impossible.
We tested various fish for making stock and preferred those with heads and bones that will produce a gelatinous stock. (See Choosing Fish for Stock for more details.) Trimmings can come from any number of fish, although oily, strong-tasting fish, such as bluefish or salmon, should be avoided.
Many recipes suggest sweating fish bones and vegetables before adding water to make stock. In our tests, we found that this step was not only unnecessary but also yielded an inferior stock. We found that simply adding all the ingredients to the pot, including the water, at the same time, produces a cleaner, brighter tasting stock.
Unlike meat or chicken stock, fish stock is rarely simmered for hours. Some sources warn against simmering for longer than 15 or 30 minutes, suggesting that the trimmings will make the stock bitter if cooked too long. We tested various times and found that fish stock tastes best when simmered for a full hour. When we continued to simmer the stock for another hour there was no improvement in flavor, but the stock did not become bitter, either.
There was a time when fishmongers would gladly give away bones, heads, and tails. But no longer, unless perhaps you are an especially good customer. And don't expect to automatically have bones available when you show up. Call ahead and reserve what you need.
In addition to fish trimmings, water, and aromatic vegetables, many recipes call for white wine. We made fish stock both with and without wine and found that the wine adds a pleasant acidity. (Adding a little lemon adds some acidity, but not enough. We found that adding more than a quarter of a lemon will make the stock taste overly lemony.)
The prime flavoring element for many fish stews is a seasoned tomato sauce, or base. Like stock, aromatic vegetables (onions, carrots, and celery) add flavor. However, for the base these vegetables should be sautéed to bring out their full flavor. Again, white wine brings a much-needed acidic edge to the stew. Other ingredients, such as fresh fennel and Pernod for bouillabaisse or almonds and red bell pepper for zarzuela, are added to give specific stews their character. Whatever the ingredients, the base should be well seasoned; it will be diluted with fish stock, which is cooked without salt.
We tested bases made with fresh and canned tomatoes. We found little difference, so don't hesitate to use canned tomatoes. Unlike the stock, the base for the stew doesn't improve with longer cooking. After twenty minutes, the tomatoes begin to lose their freshness. After thirty minutes, the tomato base tastes too acidic and all the fresh tomato flavor is gone. Once the tomatoes are added, we recommend simmering the stew base just long enough to thicken the consistency and blend flavors, 15 to 20 minutes.
Once the base is cooked, it's time to add the stock and bring the mixture to a boil. The fish is then added and cooked briefly. In our testing, we found that overcooking the fish is the biggest problem with most fish stews. We found that 3-to 4-ounce pieces are best for serving (they are neither too large to eat gracefully nor so small that they fall apart in the stew). Pieces of fish this small, however, cook very quickly. We tried various simmering and boiling regimens. In the end, what worked best was cooking the fish in simmering broth for 5 minutes, followed by 5 minutes of indirect cooking with the heat turned off and the lid on the pot.
Any white-fleshed fillet can be used in fish stew. In general, we like firmer fillets, such as red snapper or monkfish. Tender fillets, such as flounder or sole, can be used, but you might want to reduce the simmering time by a minute or two to keep these thinner fillets from overcooking.
CHOOSING FISH FOR STOCK
Several kinds of fish make an exceptionally good stock that is rich and gelatinous. These fish are listed in the first grouping and should be used when possible. Most other tender white fish are fine for stock as well, and these are listed in the second grouping. Avoid the oily fish in the third grouping when making stock.
BEST FISH FOR STOCK
Blackfish
Monkfish, especially the heads
Red snapper
Sea bass
COMMON FISH THAT MAKE GOOD STOCK
Cod
Flatfish (sole, flounder, etc.)
Haddock
Pacific pollack
Rockfish
Shells from lobster, shrimp, or crabs
Skate
FISH TO AVOID
Bluefish
Mackerel
Pompano
Salmon
Smelt
Fish Stock
NOTE:
Fish heads, tails, and bones can be used to make stock. An equal amount of lobster, shrimp, or crab shells may be used instead. Makes 2 to 21/2 quarts.
3 pounds fish trimmings (see Choosing Fish for Stock), prepared according to figures 11, 12 and 13
1 medium onion, diced
2 medium carrots, diced
1 large celery stalk, diced
8 fresh parsley stems, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
1 lemon quarter
10 whole black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
1 dried chile pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Put all ingredients in 6-to 8-quart pot. Cover with 23/4 quarts cold water. Bring to boil over medium heat; simmer gently for 1 hour, periodically skimming away scum that rises to surface.
2. Strain stock through double thickness of cheesecloth, pressing out as much liquid as possible with back of spoon. (Stock can be cooled and refrigerated for up to 3 days or frozen for 3 months.)
Cheater's Stock
NOTE:
We found that doctored clam juice can be used in a pinch in place of fish stock. Clam juice is very salty, so don't add any salt to the stew until you have tasted it. Makes about 41/2 cups.
1 small onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
2 medium celery stalks, minced
8 fresh parsley stems, chopped
1 cup dry white wine
3 8-ounce bottles clam juice
3 cups water
2 bay leaves
8 whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 dried chile pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring all ingredients to boil in medium saucepan. Simmer to blend flavors (no skimming necessary), about 30 minutes. Strain through cheesecloth, pressing on solids with back of spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. (Can be refrigerated for 3 days.)
Master Recipe
Fish Stew
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
1 medium celery stalk, diced
1 medium carrot, diced
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with juice
2 large bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Salt and ground black pepper
41/2 cups Fish Stock or Cheater's Fish Stock
3 pounds white-flesh fish fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 3-to 4-ounce pieces
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1. Heat oil in large soup kettle. Add onion, celery, carrot, and garlic and cook over medium heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, bay leaves, cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened to tomato sauce consistency, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add fish stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
3. Add fish pieces and simmer, stirring a few times to ensure even cooking, for 5 minutes. Remove kettle from heat, cover, and let stand until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, and serve immediately.
Cod Stew with Potatoes and Bacon
NOTE:
This simple New England–style fish stew contains just cod, potatoes, onions, and bacon. Other firm, white-fleshed fish fillets may be used, but cod is the most authentic choice. The stew is delicious as is but can be enriched with a little heavy cream just before serving if you like. Serves six to eight.
4 ounces sliced bacon, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
1 medium onion, diced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
2 large bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Salt and ground black pepper
41/2 cups Fish Stock or Cheater's Fish Stock
3 medium boiling potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup heavy cream (optional)
3 pounds cod fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 3-to 4-ounce pieces
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Fry bacon in large soup kettle over medium heat until nicely browned, about 7 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and set aside. Add onion to bacon fat and cook over medium heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, bay leaves, cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened to tomato sauce consistency, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add fish stock and potatoes and bring to boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are almost tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add cream, if using. Adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
3. Add fish pieces and simmer, stirring a few times to ensure even cooking, for 5 minutes. Remove kettle from heat, cover, and let stand until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in bacon and parsley, discard bay leaves, and serve immediately.
Bouillabaisse
NOTE:
This French fish stew is served in soup plates that have been lined with sliced cooked potatoes. Float two slices of toasted French bread dolloped with Roasted Red Pepper Mayonnaise (see recipe) in each bowl. Serves eight.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, diced
1 small fennel bulb, diced, tough parts and stalks discarded
6 large garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
1/4 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled (see figure 10)
3 tablespoons anise-flavored liqueur such as Pernod
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
2 large bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Salt and ground black pepper
41/2 cups Fish Stock or Cheater's Fish Stock
1 pound new potatoes
3 pounds white-flesh fish fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 3-to 4-ounce pieces
1 recipe Roasted Red Pepper Mayonnaise
16 slices 1/2-inch-thick French bread, toasted
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large soup kettle. Add onions, fennel, and garlic and cook over medium heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, saffron, Pernod, orange zest, bay leaves, cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened to tomato sauce consistency, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add fish stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
3. Meanwhile, place potatoes in medium saucepan and cover with water. Bring to boil and simmer until cooked through, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain, cool slightly, and cut into thick slices. Cover and keep potatoes warm.
4. Add fish to stew and simmer, stirring a few times, for 5 minutes. Remove kettle from heat, cover, and let stand until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes.
5. Spread a dollop of mayonnaise over each piece of toast. Divide potato slices among soup plates. Stir parsley into stew, discard bay leaves, and ladle stew into soup plates. Float 2 toasts in each soup plate and serve immediately.
Roasted Red Pepper Mayonnaise
NOTE:
Spread this French sauce, called rouille, on toasts that you float in bowls of seafood stew. If you like, mix the mayonnaise right into the stew for added flavor. If you prefer not to eat dishes with raw eggs, replace the egg yolk and olive oil with 3/4 cup prepared mayonnaise, adding the mayonnaise with the pepper and saffron and processing until smooth. Makes about 1 cup.
2 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 slice (about 1/2-inch-thick) French bread
1 small red bell pepper, roasted, peeled, and seeded
1/8 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled (see figure 10)
1 large egg yolk, at room temperature
1/2 cup olive oil
Salt
Pinch cayenne pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
With food processor motor running, drop garlic cloves, one at a time, through feed tube. Push garlic down sides of bowl with rubber spatula. Add bread and process to fine crumbs. Add bell pepper, saffron, then egg yolk and process until pureed. With motor still running, slowly add oil until mixture thickens to mayonnaise consistency. Season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper.
Sicilian Fish Stew
NOTE:
Serve this heady stew with bruschetta—slices of country-style Italian bread that have been toasted, rubbed with a cut garlic clove, and brushed with olive oil. Serves six to eight.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, diced
3 large garlic cloves, minced
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
2 large bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Salt and ground black pepper
41/2 cups Fish Stock or Cheater's Fish Stock
3 tablespoons golden raisins
3 pounds white-flesh fish fillets, rinsed, patted dry, and cut into 3-to 4-ounce pieces
12 large green olives, pitted and quartered lengthwise
1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
2 tablespoons minced fresh mint leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large soup kettle. Add onions and garlic and cook over medium heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, bay leaves, cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened to tomato sauce consistency, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add fish stock and raisins and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
3. Add fish pieces to stew and simmer, stirring a few times to ensure even cooking, for 5 minutes. Remove kettle from heat, cover, and let stand until fish is just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in olives, nuts, and mint. Discard bay leaves and serve immediately.
Zarzuela
NOTE:
Shellfish replaces fish in this Spanish stew. Lobster bodies and shrimp shells can be used in the fish stock if desired. Serves six to eight.
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 medium onions, diced
2 medium red bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and diced
3 large garlic cloves, minced
2 ounces prosciutto, minced
1/2 cup coarse-ground toasted almonds
1/8 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled (see figure 10)
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 cups chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
2 large bay leaves
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or to taste Salt and ground black pepper
41/2 cups Fish Stock or Cheater's Fish Stock
1 lobster (about 11/2 pounds), cut into pieces (see figures 14, 15, 16, 17, 18 and 19)
12 littleneck clams, scrubbed
12 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
12 large shrimp, shelled but tails on
1/2 pound sea scallops (halved if very large)
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large soup kettle. Add onions, bell peppers, and garlic and cook over medium heat until softened, about 10 minutes. Add prosciutto, almonds, and saffron and sauté to coat with oil, about 1 minute. Add wine and simmer until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes, bay leaves, cayenne pepper, and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to boil, reduce heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened to tomato sauce consistency, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Add fish stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat to simmer and adjust seasonings with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
3. Add lobster pieces and clams and simmer for 3 minutes. Add mussels and simmer for 2 minutes. Add shrimp and scallops and simmer for 3 minutes, removing clams and mussels as they open and transferring them to soup plates. Stir in parsley, discard bay leaves, and serve immediately.
Figure 14.
Freeze the lobster for 5 to 10 minutes to make it easier to handle. Remove the lobster from the freezer and place the point of a chef's knife at the center of the cross on the lobster's head. Stab to kill.
Figure 15.
Twist the tail from the body to separate them.
Figure 16.
Halve the tail lengthwise. Cut each piece in half crosswise to yield four pieces of lobster tail.
Figure 18.
Cut through each claw at the first joint to separate the meaty portion of the claw from the long, tubular portion of the claw.
Figure 19.
With a couple of sharp blows with the back of a chef's knife, crack each piece of the claw.
VEGETABLE STEWS
MANY VEGETABLE STEWS CAN TASTE one-dimensional, much like a pan of sautéed vegetables with some broth. There is nothing wrong with these "stews," but they lack the intensity of a good meat, chicken, or fish stew. The biggest challenge when making vegetable stew is figuring out how to create a rich, deep flavor. This task is even harder if you want to make a vegetarian (that is, no chicken stock) vegetable stew. However, we have had some good vegetarian stews in the past—dishes worth eating even if you like meat—and wanted to figure out what makes some vegetarian stews delicious and others bland and insipid.
We started our testing by preparing a number of basic vegetable stews and devising a composite recipe. From early tests, we preferred stews that started with onions, carrots, and celery sautéed in oil. (We tested butter but preferred the lighter flavor of olive oil with the vegetables.) For maximum flavor, we found it best to mince these vegetables and let them brown. We also found the addition of garlic and a strong herb, such as rosemary or thyme, added further depth to this base for the stew.
At this point, the larger vegetables, those which would hold their shape during cooking and form the backbone of the stew, could be added. High-moisture vegetables that are usually sautéed, such as mushrooms, red onions, fennel, eggplant, bell peppers, and zucchini, should be added at this point. The pot can then be deglazed with a little wine. We found that red wine overpowered the vegetables and vastly preferred white wine. We also found that too much wine will make the stew boozy, no doubt because of the relatively short simmering time for vegetable stews. However, when we omitted white wine we felt the stew tasted flat. A half cup adds just the right amount of flavor and acidity to a vegetable stew.
Once the wine has reduced, it is time to add the other liquids along with root vegetables. We experimented with various liquids and liked the combination of vegetable stock and tomatoes. Homemade vegetable stock makes a delicious stew, but canned products are fine as long as you shop carefully. Vegetable stews tend to be sweet, so avoid stocks that are more sweet than savory. You can almost tell by looking at the stock how it will taste. If the color is bright orange, the stock was made with a lot of carrots and will be achingly sweet. We found the shockingly orange canned vegetable stocks made by Swanson and College Inn to be quite sweet. We had better luck when shopping at our local natural food store. We particularly liked an organic stock made by Pacific Foods of Oregon. It comes packaged in an aseptic carton and has a good, balanced vegetable flavor.
In addition to stock, we like to add tomatoes, both for flavor and color. The acidity helps balance some of the sweetness of the vegetables and the red color keeps vegetable stews from looking dull or brown.
We tested porcini soaking liquid and cream and found that both are too intense for an all-purpose vegetable stew. The one exception was a root vegetable stew that was quite sweet and needed some additional savory elements. The smoky, meaty flavor of the porcini helps balance the sweetness of carrots and butternut squash. We also liked some cream in this rich winter stew. However, we found that the cream muted the flavor of more delicate spring and summer vegetables such as zucchini, eggplant, and asparagus.
Some sources suggest thickening vegetable stews with flour (like meat stews) or by stirring in a cornstarch slurry when the stew is almost done. However, both methods assume that the vegetables have been cooked in an abundant amount of liquid that needs thickening. We found that vegetable stews taste watered down when the vegetables are cooked in too much liquid. We found it best to cook the vegetables in just as much liquid as is necessary. While other stews are cooked covered, we prefer to cook vegetable stews partially covered to allow some of this liquid to reduce and concentrate in flavor. Cooking the stew with the cover ajar also allows the liquid to thicken up to a nice consistency.
For this reason (and because different vegetables must go into the pot at different times), we prefer to cook vegetable stews on top of the stove. This eliminates the problem of toughening vegetables by cooking at a high temperature, a constant worry when making meat, chicken, or fish stews. Vegetable stews can be simmered (not boiled, you don't want the veggies to fall apart) rather quickly, just until the vegetables are tender.
When the stew is almost done, delicate green vegetables such as asparagus and peas should be added. We found it best to add a little acid (either lemon juice or balsamic vinegar) just before serving the stew to balance the sweetness of the vegetables. A fresh herb finishes things off nicely.
Master Recipe
Vegetable Stew
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
1 medium celery stalk, minced
1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
4 medium portobello mushrooms (about 11/4 pounds), stems discarded, caps halved and then sliced 1/2-inch-thick
10 ounces white button mushrooms, halved
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes with juice
1 bay leaf
4 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
4 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 cup frozen peas (about 6 ounces), thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add minced onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Add red onion to Dutch oven and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add portobello and button mushrooms and sauté until liquid they release has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and rosemary; cook for 30 seconds. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, tomatoes, bay leaf, carrots, and potatoes, and bring to a simmer. Simmer, partially covered, until carrots and potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes.
3. Turn off heat, stir in peas, cover, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in parsley and lemon juice, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Spring Vegetable Stew with Fennel and Asparagus
NOTE:
An equal amount of shelled and skinned fava beans would make a nice substitution for the peas. Serves six to eight.
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
1 medium celery stalk, minced
1 medium red onion, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 small fennel bulb cut into 1/2-inch pieces, tough parts and stalks discarded
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
1 bay leaf
2 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
8 medium asparagus spears, tough ends discarded and cut on the bias into 1-inch pieces
1 cup frozen peas (about 6 ounces), thawed
1/4 cup minced fresh basil leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add minced onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Add red onion and fennel to Dutch oven and sauté until they begin to brown, about 10 minutes. Add garlic and thyme and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, tomatoes, bay leaf, carrots, and potatoes, and bring to a simmer. Simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes. Add asparagus and continue to simmer until vegetables are tender, about 3 minutes.
3. Turn off heat, stir in peas, cover, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in basil and lemon juice, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Vegetable Stew with Eggplant, Red Pepper, Zucchini, and Chickpeas
NOTE:
This summer stew, which highlights the flavors of a traditional ratatouille, is delicious on its own or served over couscous. Serves six to eight.
31/2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
1 medium celery stalk, minced
1 large red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
2 medium zucchini (about 3/4 pound), quartered lengthwise and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1 large eggplant (about 1 pound), cut into 1/2-inch dice
1/2 cup white wine
2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
1 bay leaf
1 15-ounce can cooked chickpeas, drained and rinsed (about 13/4 cups)
1/4 cup minced fresh mint leaves
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add minced onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
2. Add red pepper, garlic, and rosemary to Dutch oven and cook for 30 seconds. Scrape vegetables into bowl. Add 1/2 tablespoon oil and zucchini and sauté until softened, about 7 minutes. Scrape zucchini into bowl with other vegetables. Add remaining tablespoon oil and eggplant and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Add vegetables in bowl back to pot. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add stock, tomatoes, and bay leaf, and bring to a simmer. Simmer, partially covered, until vegetables are tender, about 15 minutes.
3. Turn off heat, stir in chickpeas, cover, and allow to stand for 5 minutes. Stir in mint and balsamic vinegar, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Root Vegetable Stew with Porcini and Cream
NOTE:
Turnips, potatoes, carrots, and butternut squash make this stew hearty and satisfying. The porcini give the stew a smoky, meaty flavor that balances the sweetness of the vegetables. Serves six to eight.
1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium carrot, minced
1 medium celery stalk, minced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
1/2 cup white wine
11/2 cups vegetable stock
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes with their juice
1/2 cup heavy cream
1 bay leaf
2 medium turnips, peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 large carrots, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 small butternut squash (about 1 pound), peeled, seeded, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves or snipped chives
1 tablespoon lemon juice
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place porcini in small bowl and cover with 3/4 cup hot tap water. Soak until softened, about 20 minutes. Carefully lift mushrooms from liquid with fork and pick through to remove any foreign debris. Wash mushrooms under cold water if they feel gritty, then chop. Strain soaking liquid through sieve lined with paper towel or coffee filter. Reserve mushrooms and strained soaking liquid separately.
2. Heat oil over medium-high heat in large ovenproof Dutch oven. Add minced onion, carrot, and celery and sauté until vegetables begin to brown, about 10 minutes.
3. Add chopped porcini, garlic, and rosemary to Dutch oven and continue to cook for 30 seconds. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits that may have stuck to pot. Add strained porcini liquid, stock, tomatoes, cream, bay leaf, turnips, carrots, and potatoes, and bring to a simmer. Simmer, partially covered, for 25 minutes. Add squash and continue simmering until vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Stir in parsley and lemon juice, discard bay leaf, adjust seasonings, and serve.
VEGETABLE BASICS
VEGETABLE COOKERY IS GENERALLY QUICK AND easy. Even so, cooks are perplexed by vegetables. They wonder what is the best way to cook a particular vegetable and are often in desperate need of inspiration when it comes to choosing simple flavorings. This book addresses both issues.
In the pages that follow, we examine the 13 most popular garden vegetables. We started by testing all the relevant cooking methods and making some conclusions about which methods are best for that particular vegetable. From there, we offer master recipes that explain our preferred techniques along with plenty of variations so that you can produce vegetable side dishes that are interesting and varied.
As you will see, a number of cooking techniques are used repeatedly in this book. Here is an explanation of each method and its general pros and cons.
BOILING
"Boiling" means cooking in an abundant amount of boiling water, at least enough to cover the vegetables by several inches. When referring to vegetables, the term "blanching" (which means cooking in boiling water until partially but not fully done) is often used. If the water is salted (use at least 1/2 teaspoon of salt per quart of water) during boiling or blanching, the vegetables will be nicely seasoned. Blanched vegetables are often sautéed to finish the cooking process; this is also when more seasonings can be added. Porous vegetables, such as cauliflower and broccoli, can become waterlogged and mushy when boiled.
STEAMING
"Steaming" means cooking in a basket set over boiling water. It has similar effects as boiling, except that there is no possibility of seasoning vegetables with salt as they cook. Also, since the vegetables are above water as they steam, they absorb less liquid and don't become soggy.
BRAISING
"Braising" refers to cooking in a covered pan with a small amount of liquid. Often a braise starts with sautéing the vegetables in some fat before adding the liquid. Steam from this liquid cooks the vegetable through and eventually becomes a sauce that seasons the vegetable.
GRILLING
The intense heat of the grill caramelizes the exterior of vegetables and concentrates their flavors by driving off water. Vegetables should be brushed lightly with oil before grilling, and the grill surface should be meticulously scraped to prevent delicate vegetables from picking up off flavors. Vegetables should be grilled over a medium-hot fire—you should be able to hold your hand five inches above the cooking surface for four seconds.
BROILING
"Broiling" is similar to grilling. The intense heat of the broiler browns the exterior of vegetables and causes water to be expelled and evaporated. Lightly oiled vegetables should be placed in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet for broiling. Position the vegetables about four inches from the broiling element for the best results.
SAUTÉING AND STIR-FRYING
Most vegetables can be cooked in a hot pan with a little oil or butter. Sautéing and stir-frying are similar, especially since we find that a skillet works well when stir-frying on an American stove. (A wok is designed to sit in a cylindrical fire pit and is ill-suited to a flat stove.) In general, stir-frying relies on oil, not butter, and uses very high temperatures. We find it best to stir-fry in a very large (12-inch) nonstick skillet so that the vegetables can be placed in a single layer and will cook as quickly as possible. Sautéing generally occurs at more moderate temperatures. You may use a regular or nonstick skillet here. Sautéing is appropriate for eggplant, tender greens, peppers, cherry tomatoes, and zucchini.
There are several other cooking methods that can be applied to vegetables that we have not considered in this book. We tested many vegetables in the microwave. Although this controversial kitchen tool did a decent job in some cases, it was never our favorite method. Often vegetables cooked unevenly and dried out in spots.
We understand the value of roasting many vegetables. However, for garden vegetables we find that we want to cook them faster. Grilling and broiling yield comparable results—the exterior caramelizes and flavors are concentrated—and these methods seem more appropriate to warm-weather cooking.
Finally, we recognize how delicious fried vegetables can be. However, most cooks are looking for simpler, lower-fat preparations that they can use on a daily basis. For this reason, we have not considered frying in this book.
ASPARAGUS
ASPARAGUS PRESENTS ONLY ONE PREPARATION issue—should the spears be peeled, or is it better to discard the tough, fibrous ends entirely? While peeled asparagus have a silkier texture, we preferred the contrast between the peel and inner flesh. Peeling is also a lot of work. We prefer to simply snap off the tough ends and proceed with cooking (see figure 1).
We investigated moist-heat cooking methods and found that boiling and steaming yielded similar results. The delicate tips remained a bit crisper when the asparagus was steamed, so that's our preferred method.
A second option for asparagus is stir-frying. The spears must be cut into smaller pieces—about one-and-a-half inches is right. We found that there is no reason to precook asparagus before stir-frying. As long as you use a skillet large enough to hold the asparagus in a single layer, they will soften after about four minutes of stir-frying. Adding a fairly liquidy sauce (which will reduce quickly to a syrup) helps finish the cooking process.
A third option, and one that most cooks don't consider, is grilling or broiling. The intense dry heat concentrates the flavor of the asparagus, and the exterior caramelization makes the spears especially sweet. The result is asparagus with a heightened and—we think—delicious flavor.
Figure 1.
In our tests, we found that the tough, woody part of the stem will break off in just the right place if you hold the spear the right way. Hold the asparagus about halfway down the stalk; with the other hand, hold the cut end between the thumb and index finger about an inch or so up from the bottom; bend the stalk until it snaps.
Master Recipe
Steamed Asparagus
serves four
NOTE:
A large sauté pan or Dutch oven is the best pot for steaming asparagus. Steamed asparagus is rather bland, so we prefer to toss it with a flavorful vinaigrette.
11/2 pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off (see figure 1)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Fit wide saucepan with steamer basket. Add water, keeping water level below basket. Bring water to boil over high heat. Add asparagus to basket. Cover and steam until asparagus spears bend slightly when picked up and flesh at cut end yields when squeezed, 3 to 4 minutes for asparagus under 1/2 inch in diameter, 4 to 5 minutes for jumbo asparagus. Remove asparagus from basket and season as directed in variations.
VARIATIONS:
Steamed Asparagus with Lemon Vinaigrette
Combine 11/2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard, and 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco sauce in small bowl. Whisk in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed asparagus with dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Steamed Asparagus with Ginger-Hoisin Vinaigrette
Combine 21/2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, 11/2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 21/2 teaspoons soy sauce, and 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot in small bowl. Whisk in 11/2 tablespoons canola oil and 11/2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed asparagus with dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Master Recipe
Stir-Fried Asparagus
serves four
NOTE:
Thick spears should be halved lengthwise and then cut into 11/2-inch pieces to ensure that the center cooks through.
1/2 cup chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
11/2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon peanut oil
11/2 pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off (see figure 1) and cut on the bias into 11/2-inch pieces
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine stock, salt, and pepper in small bowl and set aside.
2. Heat 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until quite hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 11/2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat pan evenly (oil should shimmer in pan immediately.) Add asparagus in single layer and stir-fry, tossing every 45 seconds, until well browned, about 4 minutes.
3. Clear center of pan, add garlic, and drizzle with remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Mash garlic with back of spatula. Cook 10 seconds and mix garlic with asparagus. Add chicken broth mixture and cook until sauce is syrupy, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Thai-Style Stir-Fried Asparagus with Chiles, Garlic, and Basil
Follow Master Recipe, replacing stock, salt, and pepper with 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon water, and 1 tablespoon sugar. Add 1 tablespoon minced jalapeno or serrano chile with garlic. Off heat, stir in 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil leaves. Serve immediately.
Stir-Fried Asparagus with Black Bean Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, reducing chicken stock to 2 tablespoons, omitting salt, and adding 3 tablespoons dry sherry, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil, 1 tablespoon fermented black beans, and 1 teaspoon sugar to bowl in step 1. Add 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot with garlic. Off heat, stir in 2 thinly sliced scallions. Serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Grilled or Broiled Asparagus
serves four
NOTE:
Thick spears will burn on the surface before they cook through. Use spears no thicker than 5/8 inch.
11/2 pounds asparagus, tough ends snapped off (see figure 1)
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Light grill or preheat broiler. Toss asparagus with oil in medium bowl or, if broiling, on rimmed baking sheet.
2. Grill asparagus over medium heat, turning once, until tender and streaked with light grill marks, 5 to 7 minutes, or line up spears in single layer on baking sheet and broil, placing pan about 4 inches from broiler and shaking it once halfway through cooking to rotate spears, until tender and browned in some spots, 5 to 7 minutes. Season asparagus with salt and pepper to taste and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
VARIATIONS:
Grilled or Broiled Asparagus with Peanut Sauce
Whisk 1 minced garlic clove, 11/2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot, 11/2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar, 11/2 teaspoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil, 1 tablespoon smooth peanut butter, 1 tablespoon water, and salt and pepper to taste together in small bowl. Follow Master Recipe, tossing asparagus with half of this mixture instead of olive oil. Cook as directed. Whisk 1 tablespoon minced fresh cilantro leaves into remaining dressing. Toss cooked asparagus with dressing and adjust seasonings.
Grilled or Broiled Asparagus with Rosemary and Goat Cheese
Whisk 1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary, 1 minced garlic clove, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste together in small bowl. Follow Master Recipe, tossing asparagus with 1 tablespoon of this mixture instead of olive oil. Cook as directed. Toss cooked asparagus with remaining dressing, adjust seasonings, and sprinkle with 1 ounce crumbled goat cheese.
BROCCOLI
BROCCOLI REQUIRES A MOIST-HEAT COOKING method to keep the florets tender and to cook through the stalks. We tested boiling, blanching then sautéing, and steaming. Boiled broccoli is soggy tasting and mushy, even when cooked for just two minutes. The florets absorb too much water. We found the same thing happened when we blanched the broccoli for a minute and then finished cooking it in a hot skillet.
Delicate florets are best cooked above water in a steamer basket. The stalk may be cooked along with the florets as long as it has been peeled and cut into small chunks. (See figures 2 and 3 for preparation.) Broccoli will be fully cooked after about five minutes of steaming. At this point, it may be tossed with a flavorful dressing. A warning: Cook broccoli just two or three minutes too long and chemical changes cause loss of color and texture.
We tried stir-frying broccoli without precooking and found that the florets started to fall apart long before the stems were tender. While blanching and then stir-frying helped the broccoli to cook more evenly, the florets were soggy. We found that partially cooking the broccoli in the steamer basket and then adding it to the stir-fry pan works best. Try this technique when you want to sauce broccoli rather than dress it with vinaigrette.
Figure 2.
Place head of broccoli upside down on a cutting board and trim off the florets very close to their heads with a large knife.
Figure 3.
The stalks may also be cooked. Stand each stalk up on the cutting board and remove the outer 1/8-inch from each side. Now cut the stalk in half lengthwise and into bite-sized pieces.
Master Recipe
Steamed Broccoli
serves four
NOTE:
For maximum absorption, toss steamed broccoli with the dressings listed in the variations when hot. The broccoli may be served immediately or cooled to room temperature.
11/2 pounds broccoli (about 1 medium bunch), prepared according to figures 2 and 3
INSTRUCTIONS:
Fit wide saucepan with steamer basket. Add water, keeping water level below basket. Bring water to boil over high heat. Add broccoli to basket. Cover and steam until broccoli is just tender, 41/2 to 5 minutes. Remove broccoli from basket and season as directed in variations.
VARIATIONS:
Steamed Broccoli with Spicy Balsamic Dressing and Black Olives
Whisk 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, 1 minced garlic clove, 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, and 1/4 teaspoon salt in small bowl. Whisk in 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed broccoli with dressing and 12 large pitted and quartered black olives. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Steamed Broccoli with Orange-Ginger Dressing and Walnuts
In food processor combine 1 tablespoon peanut oil, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon honey, 1 tablespoon grated orange zest, 3 tablespoons orange juice, 1 peeled garlic clove, 1-inch piece peeled fresh gingerroot, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and process until smooth. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed broccoli with dressing, 2 thinly sliced scallions, and 2/3 cup toasted and chopped walnuts.
Steamed Broccoli with Lime-Cumin Dressing
Whisk 1 teaspoon grated lime zest, 1 tablespoon lime juice, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and hot red pepper sauce to taste in bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and then add 1/4 cup minced red onion. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed broccoli with dressing.
Steamed Broccoli with Spanish Green Herb Sauce
In food processor, combine 2 peeled garlic cloves, 1/2 cup each tightly packed fresh cilantro and parsley leaves, 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 1/2 teaspoon salt and process until smooth. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed broccoli with dressing.
Master Recipe
Stir-Fried Broccoli
serves four
NOTE:
Instead of steaming broccoli until tender and tossing it with a dressing, it may be partially steamed and then stir-fried with seasonings.
1/2 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
11/2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon peanut oil
1 recipe Steamed Broccoli (), cooked just 21/2 minutes and removed from steamer
1 tablespoon minced garlic
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix together chicken stock, salt, and pepper to taste in small bowl.
2. Heat 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until quite hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 11/2 tablespoons oil and swirl to coat bottom of pan (oil should shimmer immediately). Add steamed broccoli and cook, stirring every 30 seconds, until fully cooked and heated through, about 21/2 minutes.
3. Clear center of pan, add garlic, and drizzle with remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Mash garlic with back of spatula. Cook 10 seconds and then mix garlic with broccoli. Add chicken stock mixture and cook until sauce is syrupy, about 30 seconds. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Stir-Fried Broccoli with Orange Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, reducing chicken stock to 11/2 tablespoons and combining with 3 tablespoons orange juice, 11/2 teaspoons grated orange zest, 1/4 teaspoon sugar, and 2 teaspoons soy sauce; omit salt. Reduce garlic to 1 clove and add 1 medium scallion, thinly sliced, and 1 teaspoon minced fresh gingerroot along with garlic.
Stir-Fried Broccoli with Hot-and-Sour Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, reducing chicken stock to 1 tablespoon and combining with 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and 2 teaspoons sugar; omit salt. Substitute ginger for garlic and add 1 tablespoon minced jalapeno or other fresh chile along with ginger in step 3.
CABBAGE & BRUSSELS SPROUTS
LARGE GREEN CABBAGE AND SMALL BRUSSELS sprouts have similar cooking properties. Both become waterlogged when boiled. Steaming leaves cabbage and Brussels sprouts less soggy, but the flavor is wan and listless. Cabbage and Brussels sprouts need a cooking method that will add some flavor as well as counter their strong mustardy smell.
We found that shredding cabbage (see figures 4, 5, 6) and braising it in a mixture of butter and chicken stock adds flavor. As long as the amount of liquid is quite small (a tablespoon was enough to cook a pound of cabbage), the texture will still be a bit crunchy and delicious. Cabbage can also be braised in other fats (bacon drippings) and liquids (apple juice, wine). Cream combines fat and liquid and may be used alone.
Brussels sprouts can easily be cooked by simmering them in water, draining, and then sautéing in seasonings. This method is awkward with shredded cabbage but works well with the small, round sprouts. We tested steaming the sprouts as well as braising them in a little salted water. The sprouts benefited greatly from cooking with some salt. As with cabbage, Brussels sprouts may also be braised in cream and served as is.
Figure 4.
Cut cabbage into quarters and use a chef's knife to remove the tough core section from each piece.
Master Recipe
Braised Cabbage
serves four
NOTE:
This recipe uses about six cups of shredded cabbage.
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
1/2 large head green cabbage (about 11/2 pounds), cored and cut into 1/4-inch shreds (see figures 4, 5, 6)
1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
Heat butter in large skillet over medium heat. Add stock, then cabbage and thyme. Bring to simmer; cover and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is wilted but still bright green, 7 to 9 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Cream-Braised Cabbage with Lemon and Shallots
Follow Master Recipe, replacing butter and chicken stock with 1/4 cup heavy cream, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and 1 small minced shallot. Omit thyme and parsley.
Braised Cabbage with Bacon and Onion
Fry 4 strips bacon in large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon from pan with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon bacon drippings. Add 1/2 small onion, minced, to drippings, and sauté until slightly colored, 11/2 minutes. Proceed with Master Recipe, omitting butter. Crumble bacon over cooked cabbage and serve.
Braised Cabbage with Caraway and Mustard
Follow Master Recipe, replacing stock with 1 tablespoon apple juice and 1/2 teaspoon Dijon mustard and substituting 1 tablespoon caraway seeds for parsley.
Master Recipe
Braised Brussels Sprouts
serves three to four
NOTE:
After cooking you may toss Brussels sprouts with a little butter and season them with ground black pepper. Or try one of the variations that follow. In our testing, we found no benefit to cutting an X into the bottom of each sprout. (Some sources say this promotes even cooking.) Simply trim the bottom of the stem and remove any discolored leaves before cooking.
1 pound small Brussels sprouts, stems trimmed and any discolored outer leaves removed
1/2 teaspoon salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring sprouts, 1/2 cup water, and salt to boil in large skillet over heat. Lower heat to medium, cover, and simmer (shaking pan once or twice to redistribute sprouts) until knife tip inserted into center of sprout meets little resistance, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain well and season as directed in variations or note above.
VARIATIONS:
Brussels Sprouts Braised in Cream
Follow Master Recipe, substituting 1 cup heavy cream for water. Increase cooking time to 10 to 12 minutes. Season with pinch grated nutmeg and ground black pepper and serve without draining.
Glazed Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts
If chestnuts are unavailable, substitute 1/3 cup toasted, chopped hazelnuts.
Prepare Master Recipe and set drained Brussels sprouts aside. Heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1 tablespoon sugar in large skillet over medium-high heat until butter melts and sugar dissolves. Stir in 16-ounce can peeled chestnuts in water, drained. Turn heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until chestnuts are glazed, about 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and cooked Brussels sprouts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Brussels Sprouts with Garlic and Pine Nuts
Prepare Master Recipe and set drained Brussels sprouts aside. Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add 1/4 cup pine nuts and cook, stirring occasionally, until nuts begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in cooked Brussels sprouts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Brussels Sprouts with Tarragon-Mustard Butter
The mustard sauce may separate and appear curdled after the sprouts are added. If so, continue cooking and it should come back together.
Prepare Master Recipe and set drained Brussels sprouts aside. Melt 4 tablespoon unsalted butter in large skillet over medium heat. Whisk in 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard until smooth. Add 1 teaspoon dried tarragon leaves. Cook, stirring constantly, until bubbly, about 30 seconds. Stir in sprouts, coating well with sauce. Cook, stirring frequently, until heated through, 3 to 4 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve immediately.
CAULIFLOWER
CAULIFLOWER IS VERY POROUS, WHICH CAN BE an advantage or a disadvantage depending on the cooking technique used. We found that boiled cauliflower, even when underdone, always tastes watery. Steaming is much better, producing a clean, bright, sweet flavor and a crisp-tender, not soggy, texture.
To confirm our sensory observations, we weighed cauliflower before and after cooking and noticed a 10 percent increase in weight when the cauliflower was boiled (the extra weight was all water) and no change in weight when the cauliflower was steamed. After steaming, cauliflower may be dressed with a vinaigrette or sautéed briefly in a flavorful fat.
A second option is braising, which takes advantage of cauliflower's ability to absorb liquid. We found that it is best to sauté the cauliflower first—browning intensifies the naturally mild flavor of cauliflower and adds a layer of sweetness—then add a flavorful liquid. Browned cauliflower takes well to aggressive seasonings, such as soy sauce, Indian spices, or even chiles.
Figure 7.
To prepare cauliflower, start by pulling off the outer leaves and trimming off the stem near the base of the head.
Figure 8.
Turn the cauliflower upside down so the stem is facing up. Using a sharp knife, cut around the core to remove it.
Figure 10.
Cut the florets in half, or in quarters if necessary, so that individual pieces are about 1 inch square.
Master Recipe
Steamed Cauliflower
serves four
NOTE:
Mild seasonings, such as dill, basil, nuts, and citrus, are the best complement to the fresh, delicate flavor of steamed cauliflower. You may toss steamed cauliflower with extra-virgin olive oil or butter and salt and serve as is, or follow any of the simple variations.
1 medium head cauliflower (about 2 pounds), trimmed, cored, and cut into florets (see figures 7, 8, 9, 10)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Fit wide saucepan with steamer basket. Fill with enough water to reach just below bottom of basket. Bring water to boil over high heat. Add cauliflower to basket. Cover and steam until cauliflower is tender but still offers some resistance to the tooth when sampled, 7 to 8 minutes. Remove cauliflower from basket and season as directed in variations or note above.
VARIATIONS:
Steamed Cauliflower with Dill-Walnut Vinaigrette
Whisk 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1/2 minced shallot or scallion, 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste in small bowl. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed cauliflower with dressing and 1/2 cup toasted, chopped walnuts. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Steamed Cauliflower with Curry-Basil Vinaigrette
Whisk 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon curry powder, 11/2 teaspoons honey, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper together in small bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and then add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves. Follow Master Recipe, tossing steamed cauliflower with dressing. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Steamed Cauliflower with Bread Crumbs, Capers, and Chopped Egg
Follow Master Recipe, setting steamed cauliflower aside. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in large skillet over medium heat until foamy. Add 3 tablespoons dried plain bread crumbs and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add cauliflower and heat through, about 1 minute. Add 11/2 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves, 2 tablespoons drained capers, and 1 hard-boiled egg, pressed through a sieve to crumble very fine. Toss lightly, season with salt and pepper to taste, and serve immediately.
Browned and Braised Cauliflower with Asian Flavors
serves four
NOTE:
The stronger flavor of browned cauliflower stands up well to bolder, more complex flavor combinations, such as the garlic, ginger, sesame oil, and soy sauce used in this recipe.
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon dry sherry
11/2 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium head cauliflower, trimmed, cored, and cut into florets (see figures 7, 8, 9, 10
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh gingerroot
1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil
2 medium scallions, white and green parts, minced
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine soy sauce, vinegar, sherry, and 1/4 cup water in small bowl and set aside.
2. Heat large skillet over medium-high heat until pan is very hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add canola oil, swirling pan to coat evenly. Add florets and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they begin to brown, 6 to 7 minutes.
3. Clear center of pan, add garlic and ginger, and drizzle with sesame oil. Mash garlic-ginger mixture with back of spatula and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir to combine garlic-ginger mixture with cauliflower. Sauté for 30 seconds.
4. Reduce heat to low and add soy sauce mixture. Cover and cook until florets are fully tender but still offer some resistance to the tooth when sampled, 4 to 5 minutes. Add scallions and toss lightly to distribute. Season with pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Browned and Braised Cauliflower with Indian Flavors
serves four
NOTE:
Yogurt creates a rich and satisfying sauce that tames and blends the flavors of the spices. If you like, add 1/2 cup thawed frozen green peas along with the cilantro.
1/4 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon lime juice
11/2 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium head cauliflower, trimmed, cored, and cut into florets (see figures 7, 8, 9, 10
1/2 medium onion, sliced thin
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Combine yogurt, lime juice, and 1/4 cup water in small bowl and set aside.
2. Heat large skillet over medium-high heat until pan is very hot, 3 to 4 minutes. Add oil, swirling pan to coat evenly. Add florets and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they begin to soften, 2 to 3 minutes. Add onions; continue sautéing until florets begin to brown and onions soften, about 4 minutes.
3. Stir in cumin, coriander, turmeric, and pepper flakes; sauté until spices begin to toast and are fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and add yogurt mixture. Cover and cook until flavors meld, about 4 minutes. Add cilantro, toss to distribute, cover, and cook until florets are fully tender but still offer some resistance to the tooth when sampled, about 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
EGGPLANT
THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE THAT CONFRONTS the cook when preparing eggplant is excess moisture. While the grill will evaporate this liquid and allow the eggplant to brown nicely, this won't happen under the broiler or in a hot pan. The eggplant will steam in its own juices. The result is an insipid flavor and mushy texture.
Salting is the classic technique for drawing some moisture out of the eggplant before cooking. We experimented with both regular table salt and kosher salt and prefer kosher salt because the crystals are large enough to wipe away after the salt has done its job. Finer table salt crystals dissolve into the eggplant flesh and must be flushed out with water. The eggplant must then be thoroughly dried, which adds more prep time, especially if the eggplant has been diced for sautéing. (We prefer to dice eggplant that will be sautéed to increase the surface area that can brown and absorb flavorings.)
Eggplant destined for the broiler should be sliced very thin (about 1/4 inch thick) so that the salt can work quickly. The salt will take more time to penetrate thicker slices and will in the end be less effective. However, when grilling, you want thicker slices that won't fall apart on the cooking grate. We found that 3/4-inch rounds are perfect for grilling.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Eggplant
serves four
NOTE:
Very small eggplants (under 6 ounces each) may be cooked without salting. However, we found that large eggplants generally have a lot of moisture, which is best removed before cooking.
1 large eggplant (about 11/2 pounds), ends trimmed and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
1 tablespoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Ground black pepper
1 medium garlic clove, minced
2–4 tablespoons minced fresh parsley or finely shredded basil leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place eggplant in large colander and sprinkle with salt, tossing to coat evenly. Let stand 30 minutes. Using paper towels or large kitchen towel, wipe salt off and pat excess moisture from eggplant.
2. Heat oil in heavy-bottomed 12-inch skillet until it shimmers and becomes fragrant over medium-high heat. Add eggplant cubes and sauté until they begin to brown, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is fully tender and lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in pepper to taste, and add garlic. Cook to blend flavors, about 2 minutes. Off heat, stir in herb, adjust seasonings, and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Eggplant with Crisped Bread Crumbs
Melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in small skillet. Add 1/2 cup plain dried bread crumbs and toast over medium-high heat until deep golden and crisp, stirring frequently, about 5 to 6 minutes. Follow Master Recipe, adding toasted bread crumbs with herb.
Sautéed Eggplant with Asian Garlic Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, substituting 2 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil for olive oil and adding 2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot with garlic. Once garlic and ginger are in pan, cook to blend flavors, about 1 minute. Add mixture of 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar, and 1 teaspoon sugar. Simmer until eggplant absorbs liquid, about 1 minute. Substitute 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves and 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions for parsley or basil.
Master Recipe
Broiled Eggplant
serves four
NOTE:
For broiling, it's best to slice the eggplant very thin.
1 large eggplant (about 11/2 pounds), ends trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
1 tablespoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2–3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley or finely shredded basil leaves
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place eggplant in large colander and sprinkle with salt, tossing to coat evenly. Let stand 30 minutes. Using paper towels or large kitchen towel, wipe salt off and pat excess moisture from eggplant.
2. Preheat broiler. Arrange eggplant slices on foil-lined baking sheet. Brush both sides with oil. Broil eggplant slices 4 inches from heat source until tops are mahogany brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn slices over and broil until other side browns, another 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Remove eggplant from oven and sprinkle with herb. Season with pepper to taste and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
VARIATION:
Broiled Eggplant with Parmesan Cheese
This variation is delicious on its own or perfect as vegetarian main course for two when served with a basic tomato sauce.
Follow Master Recipe through step 2. Sprinkle cooked eggplant with 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese. Return eggplant to broiler until cheese melts and becomes bubbly and browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley or basil and serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Grilled Eggplant
serves four
NOTE:
There's no need to salt eggplant destined for the grill. The intense grill heat will vaporize excess moisture. You may use oregano in place of thyme if desired.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or oregano leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
1 large eggplant (about 11/2 pounds), ends trimmed and cut crosswise into 3/4-inch rounds
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Light grill. Combine oil, garlic, herbs, and salt and pepper to taste in small bowl. Place eggplant on platter and brush both sides with oil mixture.
2. Grill eggplant, turning once, until both sides are marked with dark stripes, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
VARIATION:
Grilled Eggplant with Ginger and Soy
Combine 2 tablespoons soy sauce, 11/2 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar, and 1 tablespoon water in small skillet. Bring to boil over medium-high heat and simmer until slightly thickened, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and add 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil. Follow Master Recipe, substituting peanut oil for olive oil, using ginger in place of garlic, and omitting herb, salt and pepper. Drizzle thickened soy mixture over grilled eggplant, sprinkle with 2 thinly sliced scallions, and serve.
GREEN BEANS
WE'VE FOUND THAT GREEN BEANS respond better to boiling than steaming. A pound of beans in a standard steamer basket will not cook evenly—the beans close to the steaming water cook more quickly than the beans at the top of the pile. Stirring the beans once or twice as they cook solves this problem, but it is somewhat dangerous to stick your hand into the hot pot. Boiling is simpler—just add the beans and cook until tender—and it permits the addition of salt during cooking.
Unlike other vegetables that can become soggy when boiled, the thick skin on green beans keeps the texture crisp and firm. Leave beans whole when boiling; cut beans will become waterlogged. Boiled beans can be flavored with some butter or oil, dressed with a vinaigrette, or sautéed briefly in a flavorful fat.
A second cooking option is braising. We found that the thick skin on most beans means that they are fairly slow to absorb flavorful liquids like tomatoes, cream, or stock. For this reason, we had the best success when we braised the beans for a full 20 minutes.
Braised beans lose their bright green color. Older, tougher beans benefit from long cooking, but really fresh green beans are best boiled and then seasoned, so as to retain as much of their flavor and texture as possible.
Master Recipe
Boiled Green Beans
serves four
NOTE:
The freshness and thickness of the beans can greatly affect cooking time. Thin, farm-fresh beans—not much thicker than a strand of cooked linguine—may be done in just 2 minutes. Most supermarket beans are considerably thicker and have traveled some distance, hence the 5-minute cooking time recommended below. Dress the beans with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil or a pat of butter as well as a generous sprinkling of salt and pepper. Or make one of the variations.
1 pound green beans, ends snapped off
1 teaspoon salt
INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring 21/2 quarts of water to boil in large saucepan. Add beans and salt and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Drain and season as directed in variations or note above.
VARIATIONS:
Green Beans with Toasted Walnuts and Tarragon
Other nuts, especially pine nuts and hazelnuts, and other herbs, especially parsley and basil, may be used in a similar fashion.
Follow Master Recipe, placing drained beans in large serving bowl. Add 1/4 cup chopped and toasted walnuts and 11/2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon leaves. Drizzle with 11/2 tablespoons walnut or extra-virgin olive oil and toss gently to coat. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste and serve warm or at room temperature.
Green Beans with Fresh Tomato, Basil, and Goat Cheese
Follow Master Recipe, placing drained beans in large serving bowl. Add 1/2 cup chopped fresh tomato, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves, and 1 ounce crumbled goat cheese. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar and toss gently to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve warm or at room temperature.
Green Beans with Bacon and Onion
Fry 4 strips bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, in large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon from pan with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons bacon drippings. Add 1 medium onion, minced, to drippings and sauté until softened, about 5 minutes. Follow Master Recipe, adding drained beans to skillet. Toss to heat through, 1 to 2 minutes. Add bacon and season with salt (sparingly) and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Braised Green Beans, Italian Style
serves four
NOTE:
The beans lose their bright green color but gain flavor from cooking in a tomato sauce.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 cup chopped canned tomatoes
1 pound green beans, ends snapped off
Salt and ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add tomatoes and simmer until juices thicken slightly, about 5 minutes.
2. Add green beans, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a few grindings of pepper to pan. Stir well, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender but still have some bite, about 20 minutes. Stir in parsley and adjust seasonings. Serve immediately.
Braised Green Beans, Asian Style
serves four
NOTE:
The braising liquid—chicken stock, soy sauce, and rice wine vinegar—cooks down to a concentrated, very flavorful sauce, which is especially delicious over rice.
2 tablespoons peanut oil
4 medium scallions, sliced thin
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
3/4 cup chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
3 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
2 teaspoons sugar
1 pound green beans, ends snapped off
Ground black pepper
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large sauté pan over medium heat. Add scallions and cook until softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add stock, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar, and simmer until liquid thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.
2. Add green beans and a few grindings of pepper to pan. Stir well, cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender but still have some bite, about 20 minutes. Stir in basil and adjust seasonings. Serve immediately.
GREENS
MANY COOKS THINK THEY CAN TREAT ALL leafy greens the same way, even though some are delicate enough for salads while others seem as tough as shoe leather. After cleaning, stemming, and cooking more than a hundred pounds of leafy greens, we found that they fell into two categories, each of which is handled quite differently.
Spinach, beet greens, and Swiss chard are tender and rich in moisture. They require no additional liquid during cooking. They taste of the earth and minerals but are rather delicate. Kale as well as mustard, turnip, and collard greens are tougher and require the addition of some liquid as they cook. Their flavor is very assertive, even peppery in cases, and can be overwhelming.
We tested boiling, steaming, and sautéing tender greens. Boiling produced the most brilliantly colored greens, but they were also very mushy and bland. The water cooked out all their flavor and texture. Steamed greens were less mushy, but clearly these tender greens did not need any liquid. Damp greens that were tossed in a hot oil (which could be flavored with aromatics and spices) wilted in just two or three minutes in a covered pan. Once wilted, we found it best to remove the lid so the liquid in pan would evaporate. This method has the advantage of flavoring the greens as they cook.
Tougher greens don't have enough moisture to be wilted in a hot pan; they scorch before they wilt. Steaming these greens produces a better texture but does nothing to tame their bitter flavor. Tough greens benefit from cooking in some water, which will wash away some of their harsh notes.
We tested boiling two pounds of greens in an abundant quantity of salted water and what might be called shallow-blanching in just two quarts of salted water. We found that cooking the greens in lots of water diluted their flavor too much. Shallow blanching removes enough bitterness to make these assertive greens palatable, but not so much as to rob them of their character. Blanched greens should be drained and then briefly cooked with seasonings.
Figure 11.
To prepare Swiss chard, kale, collards, and mustard greens, hold each leaf at the base of the stem over a bowl filled with water and use a sharp knife to slash the leafy portion from either side of the thick stem. Discard the stem.
Figure 12.
Turnip greens are most easily stemmed by grasping the leaf between your thumb and index finger at the base of the stem and stripping it off by hand.
Figure 13.
When using the above method with turnip greens, the very tip of the stem will break off along with the leaves. It is tender enough to cook along with the leaves.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Tender Greens
serves four
NOTE:
To stem spinach and beet greens, simply pinch off the leaves where they meet the stems. A thick stalks runs through each Swiss chard leaf, so it must be handled differently; see figure 11 for information on this technique. A large, deep Dutch oven or even a soup kettle is best for this recipe.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 pounds damp tender greens, such as spinach, beet greens, or Swiss chard, stemmed, washed in several changes of cold water, and coarsely chopped
Salt and ground black pepper
Lemon wedges (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Heat oil and garlic in Dutch oven or other deep pot and cook until garlic sizzles and turns golden, about 1 minute. Add wet greens, cover, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until greens completely wilt, about 2 to 3 minutes. Uncover and season with salt and pepper to taste. Cook over high heat until liquid evaporates, 2 to 3 minutes. Serve immediately, with lemon wedges if desired.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Tender Greens with Indian Spices
Follow Master Recipe, making these changes: Replace olive oil with 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Cook 1 minced onion with garlic and oil. When onion and garlic are golden, add 1 teaspoon minced fresh gingerroot, 1/2 minced jalapeno chile, 2 teaspoons curry powder, and 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin. Cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add wet greens and proceed with recipe. When liquid evaporates in pan, add 1/4 cup heavy cream and 2 teaspoons brown sugar. Cook, uncovered, until cream thickens, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
Sautéed Tender Greens with Cumin, Tomato, and Cilantro
Follow Master Recipe, making these changes: Cook 1 minced onion with garlic and oil. When onion and garlic are golden, add 1/2 minced jalapeno chile and 11/2 teaspoons ground cumin. Cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add 2 large plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped, and cook until their juices release, about 1 minute. Add wet greens and proceed with recipe. When greens are done, add 2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro leaves. Serve immediately, with lime wedges if desired.
Sautéed Tender Greens with Asian Flavors
Follow Master Recipe, making these changes: Replace olive oil with 2 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil. Cook 1/2 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes with garlic. Add wet greens and proceed with recipe. When liquid in pan evaporates, add mixture of 11/2 tablespoons soy sauce, 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil, 2 teaspoons rice wine vinegar, and 2 teaspoons sugar. Cook until liquid almost evaporates, about 1 minute. Serve immediately, garnishing with 2 teaspoons toasted sesame seeds.
Sautéed Tender Greens with Raisins and Almonds
Follow Master Recipe, making these changes: Increase garlic to 3 cloves. Cook 1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes with garlic. Add 1/3 cup golden raisins with wet greens and proceed with recipe. When greens have wilted, add 1/2 teaspoon minced lemon zest. When greens are done, stir in 3 tablespoons toasted slivered almonds. Serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Quick-Cooked Tough Greens
serves four
NOTE:
With the exception of turnip greens, all tough greens can be stemmed using the method outlined in figure 11. See figures 12 and 13, when working with turnip greens. Shallow-blanched greens should be shocked in cold water to stop the cooking process, drained, and then braised.
Salt
2 pounds assertive greens, such as kale, collards, mustard, or turnip greens, stemmed, washed in several changes of cold water, and coarsely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, sliced thin
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/3-1/2 cup chicken stock or low-sodium canned broth
Lemon wedges (optional)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring 2 quarts water to boil in soup kettle or other large pot. Add 11/2 teaspoons salt and greens and stir until wilted. Cover and cook until greens are just tender, about 7 minutes. Drain in colander. Rinse kettle with cold water to cool, then refill with cold water. Place greens in cold water to stop cooking process. Gather handful of greens, lift out of water, and squeeze until only droplets fall from them. Repeat with remaining greens.
2. Heat garlic, red pepper flakes, and oil in large sauté pan over medium heat until garlic starts to sizzle. Add greens and stir to coat with oil. Add 1/3 cup stock, cover, and cook over medium-high heat, adding more stock if necessary, until greens are tender and juicy and most of stock has been absorbed, about 5 minutes. Adjust seasonings, adding salt and red pepper flakes to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Quick-Cooked Tough Greens with Prosciutto
Follow Master Recipe and after garlic starts to sizzle, add 1 ounce thin-sliced prosciutto that has been cut into thin strips. Add greens and proceed as directed, stirring in 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest just before serving.
Quick-Cooked Tough Greens with Red Bell Pepper
Follow Master Recipe, sautéing 1/2 thinly sliced red bell pepper in oil until softened, about 4 minutes, before adding garlic and red pepper flakes. Proceed as directed.
Quick-Cooked Tough Greens with Black Olives and Lemon Zest
Follow Master Recipe, adding 1/3 cup pitted and chopped black olives, such as kalamatas, after garlic starts to sizzle. Add greens and proceed as directed, stirring in 1/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest just before serving.
Quick-Cooked Tough Greens with Bacon and Onion
Fry 2 bacon slices, cut crosswise into thin strips, in large sauté pan over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. If necessary, add canola oil to bacon drippings to bring up to 2 tablespoons. Follow step 1 of Master Recipe, blanching and draining greens as directed. Cook 1 small onion, minced, and 2 minced garlic cloves (in place of sliced garlic cloves and hot red pepper flakes) in bacon fat/oil mixture until softened, about 4 minutes. Add greens and proceed as directed, sprinkling with bacon bits and 2 teaspoons cider vinegar just before serving.
PEAS
THERE ARE THREE VARIETIES OF PEAS SOLD in most markets—shell peas, sugar snap peas, and snow peas. Shell peas are generally mealy and bland. Frozen peas are usually sweeter and better-tasting, but since fresh sugar snap and snow peas are almost always available, we prefer not to use frozen peas for side dishes.
The flat, light-green snow pea has a long history, especially in the Chinese kitchen. The peas are tiny and the pod is tender enough to eat. Sugar snap peas are a relatively recent development dating back just 20 years. They are a cross between shell peas and snow peas. The sweet, crisp pod is edible and holds small, juicy peas.
Sugar snap and snow peas should be cooked quickly so that they retain some crunch and color. Stir-frying works well with snow peas, which have a fairly sturdy pod. However, sugar snap peas are too delicate for such intense heat. We found the pods will become mushy by the time the peas inside are actually heated through.
Both kinds of peas can be steamed, but we found that they respond better to blanching in salted water. The salt balances some of their sweetness and brings out their flavor. Blanched peas tend to shrivel or pucker as they cool. To solve this problem, we plunge the cooked peas into ice water as soon as they are drained. This also helps to set their bright color. Once cooled, the peas can be drained, patted dry, and briefly sautéed in butter or oil to heat them through and add flavor.
Figure 14.
To prepare snow peas, remove the string that runs along the flat side of the pod before cooking. Rip off the tip of the snow pea and pull along the pod to remove the string at the same time.
Master Recipe
Blanched Sugar Snap Peas or Snow Peas
serves four
NOTE:
Sugar snap and snow peas may be cooked and seasoned the same way. The only difference is the cooking time. Have a bowl of ice water ready to shock the drained peas and prevent further softening and shriveling. The peas should be seasoned and reheated as directed in variations.
1 teaspoon salt
4 cups loosely packed sugar snap peas or snow peas (about 1 pound), tips pulled off and strings removed from snow peas (see figure 14
INSTRUCTIONS:
Bring 6 cups water to boil in large saucepan. Add salt and peas and cook until crisp-tender, 11/2 to 2 minutes for sugar snap peas or about 21/2 minutes for snow peas. Drain peas, shock in ice water, drain again, and pat dry. (Peas can be set aside for 1 hour before seasoning.)
VARIATIONS:
Peas with Hazelnut Butter and Sage
Cook peas as directed in Master Recipe and set aside. Toast 2 tablespoons chopped hazelnuts in small skillet, shaking pan often to promote even cooking, just until fragrant, 3 to 4 minutes. Heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in medium sauté pan over medium heat until it browns to color of brown sugar and smells nutty, about 5 minutes. (Take care not to burn.) Add peas, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage leaves, and nuts. Toss to combine and cook until peas are heated through, 1 to 11/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Peas with Ham and Mint
Cook peas as directed in Master Recipe and set aside. Melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1/2 cup country or smoked ham, cut into 1/4-inch dice, and sauté for 1 minute. Add peas and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint. Toss to combine and cook until peas are heated through, 1 to 11/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Peas with Lemon, Garlic, and Basil
Cook peas as directed in Master Recipe and set aside. Heat 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add zest of 1 lemon, sliced very fine, and 1 minced garlic clove, and sauté until garlic is golden, about 2 minutes. Add peas, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, and 8 chopped fresh basil leaves. Toss to combine and cook until peas are heated through, 1 to 11/2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Stir-Fried Snow Peas
serves four
NOTE:
Snow peas are sturdier than sugar snap peas and hold up well when stir-fried.
1/4 cup chicken stock or canned low-sodium broth
1/4 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon peanut oil
4 cups loosely packed snow peas (about 1 pound), tips pulled off and strings removed (see figure 14
11/2 teaspoons minced garlic
11/2 teaspoons minced fresh gingerroot
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Mix chicken stock, salt, and pepper to taste in small bowl.
2. Heat 12-inch nonstick skillet over high heat until quite hot, 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to coat bottom of pan (oil should shimmer immediately). Add snow peas and cook for 2 minutes, tossing peas every 30 seconds.
3. Clear center of pan, add garlic and ginger, and drizzle with remaining 1 teaspoon oil. Mash garlic and ginger with back of spatula. Cook for 10 seconds and then mix with snow peas. Off heat, add chicken stock mixture (it should immediately reduce down to a glaze). Serve at once.
VARIATIONS:
Stir-Fried Snow Peas with Oyster Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, substituting mixture of 3 tablespoons dry sherry, 2 tablespoons oyster sauce, 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper for chicken stock mixture in step 1.
Stir-Fried Snow Peas with Spicy Orange Sauce
Follow Master Recipe, substituting mixture of 3 tablespoons dry sherry, 1 tablespoon soy sauce, 1 tablespoon Asian sesame oil, 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, and 1/4 teaspoon salt for chicken stock mixture in step 1. Add 1 tablespoon grated orange zest and 1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes along with garlic and ginger.
PEPPERS
MOST COOKS ARE FAMILIAR WITH ROASTING bell peppers for salads or dips. However, peppers may be sliced and cooked as a vegetable side dish as well. Green peppers are unripe and generally quite bitter. Red, yellow, and orange peppers are all fully ripe and much sweeter. Avoid purple peppers, which turn a drab green color when cooked and cost much more than green peppers.
We tested sautéing and stir-frying first and found that both methods yield lightly seared peppers that are still fairly crisp. They were good, but lacked the silky smoothness of roasted peppers. We tried longer cooking times, but the exterior charred by the time the pepper was fully cooked.
We decided to see what would happen if we put the cover on the skillet after searing them. As we hoped, the peppers steamed in their own juices and became especially tender. We found that the moisture from the peppers is enough to keep them from scorching in the covered pan. We also realized that we now had an opportunity to add another liquid for juicier, seasoned peppers. A little vinegar balances the intense sweetness of the peppers and works especially well.
Figure 15.
To prepare peppers, cut around the stem with a small, sharp knife. Pull out the stem and the attached core, which should be filled with seeds.
Figure 16.
To easily remove the white ribs and make the pepper flatter for slicing, cut the pepper lengthwise into quarters. Slide a knife under the white ribs to remove them as well as remaining seeds. Slice the cleaned pepper lengthwise into 1/4-inch-wide strips.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Bell Peppers
serves four
NOTE:
A mixture of yellow, orange, and red peppers delivers the sweetest and best results. You may use one green pepper, but these unripe peppers are much less sweet and should not be used in greater amounts.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium bell peppers (about 13/4 pounds), cored, seeded, and cut into 1/4-inch-wide strips (see figures 15 and 16
1 medium garlic clove, minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano, basil, or parsley leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Add peppers and sauté, tossing occasionally, until peppers begin to brown on edges, about 5 minutes.
2. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Reduce heat to low, cover pan, and cook until peppers are tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove cover and stir in herb. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Bell Peppers with Red Onion and Balsamic Vinegar
Follow Master Recipe, cooking 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, with bell peppers. Just before covering pan, add 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar. Use parsley as herb.
Sautéed Bell Peppers with Black Olives and Feta Cheese
Follow Master Recipe, adding 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar to pan just before covering. Use oregano as herb and add 8 pitted and chopped black olives at the same time. Just before serving, crumble 2 ounces feta cheese over peppers.
Sautéed Bell Peppers with Bacon and Caraway
Fry 4 bacon slices, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-wide strips, in large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove bacon from pan with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Proceed with Master Recipe, using bacon drippings instead of olive oil and adding 1 medium chopped onion to drippings with peppers. Omit garlic. Just before covering pan, add 2 tablespoons cider vinegar and 1 teaspoon caraway seeds. Replace herb with bacon. Serve hot.
TOMATOES
TOMATOES ARE A STAPLE IN SUMMER SALADS. The mildly acidic juices from the tomatoes themselves provide a proper base for a dressing with little or no additional vinegar or other acid. To make this work, you need to extract a little of the juice from the tomatoes before you make salads. Simply cut the tomatoes into wedges, sprinkle them with salt, and wait about 15 minutes for the juices to exude.
To serve round (or beefsteak) tomatoes as a side dish, it's best to combine them with bread crumbs and bake them. There are two choices—the tomatoes may be cored and stuffed, or they may be halved and sprinkled with the crumbs. We tested both methods and found that all the liquid material in the tomatoes must be removed to get the crumbs to brown and crisp in the oven. This is easier to do when the tomatoes are halved and sprinkled with crumbs. It's hard to remove all the seeds from a whole cored tomato. It's also tricky to get much stuffing into a whole cored tomato, while a halved tomato has plenty of moist surface area to which crumbs can adhere.
We found it best to bake the tomatoes as quickly as possible—you want the crumbs to brown but don't want the tomatoes to soften too much. An oven temperature of 400 degrees delivered the best results in our testing, quickly crisping the crumbs and allowing the tomatoes to warm through and soften slightly but still hold their shape.
For a quicker side dish, try sautéing cherry tomatoes. The idea is to get them in and out of the pan quickly, so they don't become mushy and fall apart. We found that medium-high heat does the best job. In our testing, we found that many cherry tomatoes are slightly bitter. We liked the results when we sprinkled a little sugar over the tomatoes before they went into the pan. If your cherry tomatoes are especially sweet, you may omit the sugar, but in most cases we find that it helps balances the acidity in the tomatoes.
Master Recipe
Tomato Salad with Olives and Capers
serves four
NOTE:
Salting the tomato wedges creates the juices that form the base of the dressing for the salad.
4-5 large vine-ripened tomatoes (about 11/2 pounds)
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons capers, chopped
12 large black olives, such as kalamatas, pitted and chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Core and halve tomatoes through stem end, then cut each half into 4 or 5 wedges. Toss wedges and salt in large bowl; let rest until small pool of liquid accumulates, 15 to 20 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, whisk oil, lemon juice, capers, olives, onion, parsley, and pepper to taste in small bowl. Pour mixture over tomatoes and accumulated juices and toss to coat. Set aside to blend flavors, about 5 minutes. Serve.
VARIATIONS:
Tomato and Bread Salad with Garlic-Anchovy Dressing
Follow step 1 of Master Recipe. Whisk together 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 11/2 tablespoons red wine vinegar, 2 minced garlic cloves, 1/3 cup chopped fresh basil leaves, 3 minced anchovy fillets, and ground black pepper to taste in small bowl. Toss dressing with tomatoes and set aside for 5 minutes. Add 4 slices of chewy country-style bread, cut 3/4 inch thick, that have been toasted or grilled until lightly browned and then cut into 3/4-inch cubes. Serve immediately.
Tomato and Cucumber Salad
Peel, quarter, seed, and cut 2 cucumbers into 1/4-inch dice. Toss with 2 teaspoons salt in strainer set over bowl, and set aside for 1 hour; discard liquid. Follow Step 1 of Master Recipe. Whisk together 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 tablespoons lemon juice, 1/4 cup finely chopped red onion, 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, and ground black pepper to taste. Toss tomatoes in dressing and set aside for 5 minutes. Add drained cucumbers and serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Baked Tomatoes
serves four
NOTE:
The key to this recipe is removing the seeds and surrounding gelatinous material. Otherwise, the tomatoes will become soupy and the bread crumb topping will not brown.
1/2 cup dried plain bread crumbs
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
2 medium garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon hot red pepper flakes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium ripe tomatoes (about 11/4 pounds), halved and seeded (see figure 17)
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mix crumbs, cheese, basil, oregano, garlic, hot red pepper flakes, and 1 tablespoon oil together in small bowl. Set aside.
2. Place tomato halves, cut side up, in single layer in 13 by 9-inch baking dish. Season tomatoes with salt and pepper to taste. Spoon bread crumb mixture evenly over tomato halves. Drizzle remaining 2 tablespoons oil over bread crumbs.
3. Bake until tomatoes are cooked through and bread crumbs are crisp and golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Remove dish from oven and let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm.
VARIATION:
Baked Tomatoes with Olives and Balsamic Vinegar
Follow Master Recipe, adding 8 pitted and chopped black olives to bread crumb mixture. Just before serving, drizzle tomatoes with 11/2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar.
Figure 17.
To prepare round tomatoes for baking, remove the core and then cut the tomatoes in half around the equator. Use your finger to pull out the seeds and surrounding gelatinous material from each tomato half.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Cherry Tomatoes
serves four
NOTE:
To speed up the caramelization process and balance the acidity of the tomatoes, we tossed the cherry tomatoes with a little sugar just before cooking. If your cherry tomatoes are very sweet, you may want to reduce or omit the sugar.
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups (2 pints) red cherry tomatoes, halved unless very small
2 teaspoons sugar
1 medium garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh basil leaves
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering.
2. Mix tomatoes and sugar in medium bowl and add to hot oil. (Do not mix tomatoes ahead of time or you will draw off some juices.) Cook 1 minute, tossing frequently. Add garlic and mix, cooking another 30 seconds. Remove pan from heat, add basil, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Cherry Tomatoes with Curry and Mint
Follow Master Recipe, adding 11/2 teaspoons curry powder with garlic. Substitute thinly sliced mint leaves for basil. If you like, mix in 2 tablespoons plain yogurt just before serving.
Sautéed Cherry Tomatoes with Brown Butter and Herbs
Follow Master Recipe, replacing oil with equal amount of unsalted butter. When butter starts to brown and foam subsides, add tomatoes and sugar and cook as directed. Substitute equal amount of snipped chives or minced fresh dill or tarragon for basil.
ZUCCHINI & SUMMER SQUASH
THE BIGGEST PROBLEM THAT CONFRONTS the cook when preparing zucchini and yellow summer squash is their wateriness. Both are about 95 percent water and will become soupy if just thrown into a hot pan. If they cook in their own juices, they won't brown. Since both are fairly bland, they really benefit from some browning. Clearly, some of the water must be removed before sautéing.
We tested salting to draw off some water and found that sliced and salted zucchini will shed about 20 percent of its weight after sitting for 30 minutes. (Summer squash performed the same in all of our tests.) One pound of sliced zucchini threw off almost three tablespoons of liquid, further confirmation that salting works. We tested longer periods and found that little moisture is extracted after 30 minutes.
Given that you don't always have 30 minutes, we wanted to develop quicker methods for cooking zucchini. We tried shredding the zucchini on the large holes of a box grater and then squeezing out excess water by hand. We were able to reduce the weight of shredded zucchini by 25 percent by wrapping it in paper towels and squeezing until dry. Shredded and squeezed zucchini cooked up nicely, although it did not brown as well as sliced and salted zucchini.
After our success with shredding and squeezing, we wondered if a similar technique might work with sliced zucchini. Since sliced zucchini has so much less surface area than shredded zucchini, we found our manual method of extracting water to be ineffective; we recommend salting in this case.
Another quick-prep option is the grill. The intense heat quickly expels excess moisture in zucchini, and that moisture harmlessly drops down on the coals rather than sitting in the pan. We found that so much evaporation occurs during grilling that salting or shredding is not necessary.
Master Recipe
Shredded Zucchini or Summer Squash Sauté
serves four
NOTE:
Try this recipe when you're pressed for time and want to cook indoors.
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
5 medium zucchini or summer squash (about 2 pounds), trimmed, shredded, and squeezed dry (see figures 18 and 19)
3 medium garlic cloves, minced
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, basil, mint, tarragon, or chives
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
Heat oil in large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add zucchini or squash and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 7 minutes. Stir in herb and salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Shredded Zucchini or Summer Squash and Carrot Sauté
Follow Master Recipe, substituting 2 medium peeled and shredded carrots for 1 zucchini or squash.
Creamed Zucchini or Summer Squash
Follow Master Recipe, substituting an equal amount of butter for oil. Omit garlic and add 1/3 cup heavy cream with herb; simmer briefly until cream is absorbed.
Figure 18.
For quick indoor cooking, shred trimmed zucchini or squash on the large holes of a box grater or in a food processor fitted with the shredding disk.
Figure 19.
Wrap the shredded zucchini or squash in paper towels and squeeze out excess liquid. Proceed immediately with sautéing.
Master Recipe
Grilled Zucchini or Summer Squash
serves four
NOTE:
Excess water evaporates over hot coals so no salting of zucchini or squash is necessary before cooking.
4 medium zucchini or summer squash (about 11/2 pounds), trimmed and sliced lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick strips
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Light grill. Lay zucchini or squash on large baking sheet and brush both sides with oil. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.
2. Place zucchini or squash on grill. Cook, turning once, until marked with dark strips, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from grill and serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
VARIATIONS:
Grilled Zucchini or Summer Squash with Tomatoes and Basil
Whisk 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil with 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and salt and pepper to taste in large serving bowl. Add 2 tablespoons minced fresh basil leaves and 1 large tomato, cored and cut into thin wedges, and toss. Follow Master Recipe, cutting grilled zucchini or squash into 1-inch pieces when cooled slightly. Toss zucchini or squash with tomatoes and serve warm or at room temperature.
Grilled Zucchini or Summer Squash with Capers and Oregano
Whisk 1 tablespoon chopped capers, 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and 1 medium minced garlic clove in small bowl. Whisk in 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste. Follow Master Recipe, cutting grilled zucchini or squash into 1-inch pieces when cooled slightly. Toss zucchini or squash with dressing and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano in large bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Zucchini or Summer Squash
serves four
NOTE:
If you like browned zucchini or squash, you must salt it before cooking. Salting drives off excess water and helps the zucchini or squash sauté rather than stew in its own juices. Coarse kosher salt does the best job of driving off liquid and can be wiped away without rinsing. Do not add more salt when cooking or the dish will be too salty.
4 medium zucchini or summer squash (about 11/2 pounds), trimmed and sliced crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds
1 tablespoon kosher salt
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 small onion or 2 large shallots, minced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1-2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley, basil, mint, tarragon, or chives
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place zucchini or squash slices in colander and sprinkle with salt. Set colander over bowl until about 1/3 cup water drains from zucchini or squash, about 30 minutes. Remove vegetable from colander and pat dry with clean kitchen towel or several paper towels, wiping off any remaining crystals of salt.
2. Heat oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion or shallots and sauté until almost softened, about 2 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high and add zucchini or squash and lemon zest. Sauté until zucchini or squash is golden brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in lemon juice and herb and season with pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Zucchini or Summer Squash with Walnuts and Herbs
Follow Master Recipe, omitting lemon zest and juice and adding 2 tablespoons toasted chopped walnuts with herb.
Sautéed Zucchini or Summer Squash with Olives and Lemon
Follow Master Recipe, adding 1/4 cup pitted and chopped black olives along with lemon juice and using 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme or oregano as herb.
Sautéed Zucchini or Summer Squash with Pancetta and Parsley
Follow Master Recipe, omitting oil. After salting zucchini or squash, cook 2 ounces diced pancetta or bacon in skillet. When fat renders, add onion and continue with recipe. Omit lemon zest and juice and use parsley as herb.
HOW TO COOK POTATOES
POTATO BASICS
THE COOK HAS TWO CHALLENGES WHEN preparing any recipe with potatoes. The first is to determine the best cooking method. How should potatoes be baked? What's the best way to make mashed potatoes? A second question is nearly as important. What kind of potato works best in a specific recipe? While other vegetables in most markets vary by size and freshness, in most cases, shoppers will find only one variety of that vegetable. Broccoli is broccoli, carrots are carrots. Even when there are several varieties (as with heirloom tomatoes), most can be used interchangeably. Yes, one tomato might look a bit different or be a bit sweeter than another, but they are closely related.
With potatoes, this is not the case. Make french fries with Red Bliss potatoes and the fries will be heavy and greasy. Use russet potatoes in salad and they will fall apart into potato mush.
The fact that dozens of potato varieties are grown in this country makes the question of which potato is best for a specific recipe even more confusing. At any time you may see as many as five or six kinds of potatoes in your supermarket. Go to a farmers' market and you may see a dozen varieties. Some potatoes are sold by varietal name (such as Red Bliss or Yukon Gold), but others are sold by generic name (baking, all-purpose, etc.)
STARCH CONTENT
To make sense of this confusion, it is helpful to group potatoes into three major categories based on their ratio of solids (mostly starch) to water. The categories are high-starch/ low-moisture potatoes, medium-starch potatoes, and low-starch/high-moisture potatoes.
Each of the recipes in this book has been tested with all three major types of potatoes. In each recipe, we have listed the commonly available variety that works best.
You can safely make substitutions within each category (for example, other varieties of red potato can be used in place of Red Bliss potatoes in salad). Substitutions between categories are more problematic. In a few recipes, such as potato gratin, different potatoes give different results, but all are acceptable. In most cases, however, one type of potato is clearly preferred.
HIGH-STARCH/LOW-MOISTURE POTATOES
Often referred to as baking potatoes, high-starch/low-moisture potatoes can also be used for frying and mashing. The flesh in these potatoes turns dry and fluffy when cooked. Russet potatoes (also called Idaho potatoes) are the most common baking potatoes. Other lesser-known varieties include the All Blue and White Creamer. In all of our recipes, we refer to baking potatoes as russets.
MEDIUM-STARCH POTATOES
These potatoes are considered all-purpose and include Yukon Gold, Yellow Finn, Purple Viking, Caribe, Irish Cobbler, Butterfinger, Ozette, and Purple Peruvian. All-purpose potatoes can be mashed or baked but are generally not as fluffy as the high-starch potatoes. Likewise, they can be boiled for salad, but they won't hold their shape as well as red potatoes. We generally recommend medium-starch potatoes in recipes for dishes such as home fries, where a combination of these traits is desirable.
LOW-STARCH/HIGH-MOISTURE POTATOES
This category covers all red-skinned potatoes, including Red Bliss, Red Pontiac, All Red, Dark Red Norland, Ruby Crescent, and Red Creamer. It also includes most new potatoes as well as the Rose Finn Apple, the Russian Banana, and the White Rose potato. All of these potatoes, often called waxy potatoes, hold their shape better than other potatoes when sliced or diced and cooked. They are best roasted, sautéed, or boiled and used in salad.
STORAGE POTATOES VERSUS NEW POTATOES
In addition to categorizing potatoes by starch content, it is useful to divide them into two groups based on how they have been handled after harvesting.
STORAGE POTATOES
Most potatoes are cured after harvesting to toughen their skins and protect their flesh. They are then held in cold storage, often for months. These potatoes are called storage potatoes. Almost all of the potatoes in supermarkets are storage potatoes.
NEW POTATOES
Occasionally potatoes are harvested before they have developed their full complement of starch. New potatoes are always waxy (low in starch, high in moisture), even if they are actually a high-starch variety. Although all new potatoes are small, not all small potatoes are new. You can pick out a new potato by examining the skin. If the skin feels thin and you can rub it off with your fingers, you are holding a new potato. New potatoes have a lot of moisture and their flesh is almost juicy when cut.
SWEET POTATOES
Finally, there is the sweet potato. This tuber is in fact not a potato at all. It is part of the morning glory family. The kind of sweet potato found in most markets is orange-fleshed (they are labeled yams but are not related to the tropical plant of that name), but yellow-fleshed varieties are available in some markets. For more information on buying and cooking sweet potatoes, see.
KEEPING POTATOES AT HOME
Since potatoes seem almost indestructible compared with other vegetables, little thought is generally given to their storage. But because various problems can result from inadequate storage conditions, we decided to find out how much difference storage really makes. We stored all-purpose potatoes in five environments: in a cool (50–60 degrees Fahrenheit), dark place; in the refrigerator; in a basket near a sunlit window; in a warm (70–80 degrees), dark place; and in a drawer with some onions at room temperature. We checked all the potatoes after four weeks.
As expected, the potatoes stored in the cool, dark place were firm, had not sprouted, and were crisp and moist when cut. There were no negative marks on the potatoes stored in the refrigerator, either. Although some experts say that the sugar level dramatically increases in some potato varieties under these conditions, we could not see or taste any difference between these potatoes and the ones stored in the cool, dark but unrefrigerated environment.
Our last three storage tests produced unfavorable results. The potatoes stored in sunlight, in warm storage, and with onions at room temperature developed a greenish tinge. When potatoes are stressed by improper storage, the level of naturally occurring toxins increases, causing the greenish tinge known as solanine. Because solanine is not destroyed during cooking, any part of the potato with this greenish coloring should be completely cut away before cooking.
The skin of the potatoes stored in sunlight became gray and mottled, while the potatoes stored in a warm place and those stored with onions sprouted and became soft and wrinkled. Sprouts also contain increased levels of solanine and should be cut away before cooking.
BAKED POTATOES
TO CONFIRM THE GENERAL WISDOM ON what constitutes the best baking potato, we baked an all-purpose potato, Yukon Gold, and the standard baking potato, russet, and found that russets do produce the fluffiest and—to our mind—the best baked potato. We baked russets at temperatures ranging from 350 to 500 degrees and discovered that traditional slow baking is best, mainly because of the effect it has on the skin. The skin of a potato baked at 350 degrees for an hour and 15 minutes simply has no peer. Just under the skin, a well-baked potato will develop a substantial brown layer. This is because the dark skin absorbs heat during cooking, and the starch just inside the skin is broken down into sugar and starts to brown. If you love baked potato skin, this is definitely the best method.
If slow baking is essential to good skin, the consistency of the flesh also requires some attention. Letting the potato sit awhile after baking without opening it up will steam the potato and cause the flesh to become more dense. For fluffy potatoes, create a wide opening to let steam escape as soon as the potatoes come out of the oven.
Twice-baked potatoes are essentially baked potatoes from which the flesh has been removed, mashed with dairy ingredients and seasonings, mounded back in the shells, and baked again. This dish offers a good range of both texture and flavor in a single morsel. Done well, the skin is chewy and substantial without being tough, with just a hint of crispness to play off the smooth, creamy filling. In terms of flavor, cheese and other dairy ingredients make the filling rich and tangy, a contrast with the potato's mild, slightly sweet shell.
Because twice-baked potatoes are put in the oven twice, we found it best to limit the initial baking to an hour, rather than the usual 75 minutes. Oiling the skins before baking and using a higher oven temperature promote crispness—not something you necessarily want in plain baked potatoes but a trait we came to admire in creamy twice-baked potatoes. Another difference in the treatment of baked and twice-baked potatoes occurs when they come out of the oven. Unlike baked potatoes, which should be cut open immediately to release steam, twice-baked potatoes should be allowed to sit and cool down a bit, which makes them easier to handle. Because the flesh is mixed with wet ingredients, any compromise to the texture from unreleased moisture is negligible.
Once the potato halves had been emptied of their flesh, they got a little flabby sitting on the counter waiting to be stuffed. Because the oven was still on and waiting for the return of the stuffed halves, we decided to put the skins back in while we prepared the filling. That worked beautifully, giving the shells an extra dimension of crispness.
Pleased with our chewy, slightly crunchy skins, we now had to develop a smooth, lush, flavorful filling. Dozens of further tests helped us refine our filling to a rich, but not killer, combination of sharp cheddar, sour cream, buttermilk, and butter. We learned to season the filling aggressively with salt and pepper; for herbs, the slightly sharp flavor of scallions or chives was best.
With the filling mixed and mounded back into the shells, our last tests centered on the final baking. We wanted to do more than just heat the filling through; we intended to form an attractive brown crust on it as well. We found that using the broiler was the was easiest and most effective method. After 10 or 15 minutes, the potatoes emerged browned, crusted, and ready for the table.
Master Recipe
Baked Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
We found that no benefit or harm was done to the potatoes by poking them with the tines of a fork before putting them in the oven. Do use a fork to open the skin as soon as the potatoes come out of the oven (see figures 1 and 2). Season with salt to taste and a pat of butter. If you like, embellish with a dollop of sour cream, crumbled bacon, grated or shredded cheese, or minced chives or scallions.
4 medium russet potatoes (7 to 8 ounces each), scrubbed
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place potatoes on middle rack and bake until skewer glides easily through flesh, about 75 minutes.
2. Remove potatoes from oven and pierce with a fork to create a dotted X (see figure 1). Press in at ends of potato to push flesh up and out (see figure 2). Season as desired and serve immediately.
Figure 2.
Press in at the ends of the potato to push the flesh up and out. This method maximizes the amount of steam released and creates the fluffiest texture. In addition, we find that butter tends to slide right out of potatoes that are slit lengthwise. With the flesh pushed up this way, the potato does a better job of holding onto the butter. The butter thus ends up in the potato and not on your plate.
Quicker Baked Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
This half-and-half method produces far superior results than straight microwaving. By the time you have scrubbed the potatoes and microwaved them, the oven will be preheated. To cook fewer potatoes by this method, plan on 2 minutes total cooking time in the microwave for each potato. Don't try to microwave more than four potatoes at one time.
4 medium russet potatoes (7 to 8 ounces each), scrubbed
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Place 4 scrubbed potatoes in microwave and cook at high power for 4 minutes. Turn potatoes over and cook at high power for another 4 minutes.
2. Transfer potatoes to hot oven and cook until skewer glides easily through flesh, about 20 minutes. Open as directed in figures 1 and 2, and serve immediately.
Master Recipe
Twice-Baked Potatoes
serves 6 to 8
NOTE:
To vary the flavor a bit, try substituting other types of cheese, such as Gruyère, fontina, or feta, for the cheddar. Yukon Gold potatoes, though slightly more moist than our ideal, gave our twice-baked potatoes a buttery flavor and mouthfeel that everyone liked, so we recommend them as a substitution for the russets.
4 medium russet potatoes (7 to 8 ounces each), scrubbed, dried, and rubbed lightly with vegetable oil
4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup sour cream
1/2 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
3 medium scallions, sliced thin
1/2 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake potatoes on foil-lined baking sheet until skin is crisp and deep brown and skewer easily pierces flesh, about 1 hour. Setting baking sheet aside, transfer potatoes to wire rack and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.
2. Using an oven mitt or folded kitchen towel to handle hot potatoes, cut each potato in half so that long, blunt side rests on work surface (see figure 3). Using a small dinner spoon, scoop flesh from each half into medium bowl, leaving a 1/8-inch to 1/4-inch thickness of flesh in each shell. Arrange shells on lined sheet and return to oven until dry and slightly crisped, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, mash potato flesh with fork until smooth. Stir in remaining ingredients, including pepper to taste, until well combined.
3. Remove shells from oven and increase oven setting to broil. Holding shells steady on pan with oven mitt or towel-protected hand, spoon mixture into crisped shells, mounding slightly at the center, and return to oven. Broil until spotty brown and crisp on top, 10 to 15 minutes. Allow to cool for 10 minutes. Serve warm.
VARIATIONS:
Twice-Baked Potatoes with Pepperjack Cheese and Bacon
Fry 8 strips (about 8 ounces) bacon, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces, in medium skillet over medium heat until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove bacon to drain on plate lined with paper towel; set aside. Follow recipe for Twice-Baked Potatoes, substituting pepperjack cheese for cheddar and stirring reserved bacon into filling mixture.
Twice-Baked Potatoes with Chipotle Pepper and Onion
Heat 2 tablespoons butter in medium skillet over medium heat; sauté 1 medium onion, chopped fine, until soft, 3 to 4 minutes, and set aside. Follow recipe for Twice-Baked Potatoes, omitting butter and adding 1 to 11/2 tablespoons minced canned chipotle peppers in adobo sauce, reserved sautéed onion, and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves to filling mixture.
Twice-Baked Potatoes with Smoked Salmon and Chives
This variation makes a fine brunch dish.
Follow recipe for Twice-Baked Potatoes, omitting cheese and scallions and stirring 4 ounces smoked salmon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, and 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives into filling mixture. Sprinkle finished potatoes with additional chopped chives as garnish just before serving.
Figure 3.
Most russet potatoes have two relatively flat, blunt sides and two curved sides. Halve the baked potatoes lengthwise so the blunt sides are down once the shells are stuffed, making them much more stable on the pan during the final baking.
ROASTED POTATOES
THE PERFECT ROASTED POTATO IS CRISP and deep golden brown on the outside, with moist, velvety, dense interior flesh. The potato's slightly bitter skin is intact, providing a contrast with the sweet, caramelized flavor that the flesh develops during the roasting process. It is rich but never greasy, and it is often accompanied by the heady taste of garlic and herbs.
To start, we roasted several kinds of potatoes. We liked high-starch/low-moisture potatoes (we used russets) the least. They did not brown well, their dry, fluffy texture was more like baked than roasted potatoes, and their flavor reminded us of raw potatoes. Medium-starch all-purpose potatoes (we used Yukon Golds) produced a beautiful golden crust, but the interior flesh was still rather dry. The best roasted potatoes came from the low-starch/high-moisture category (we used Red Bliss). These potatoes emerged from the oven with a light, delicate crust and a moist, dense interior that had a more complex, nutty flavor than the others, with hints of bitterness and tang.
After choosing the Red Bliss potatoes, we began to test oven temperatures. At 425 degrees, the result was an even-colored, golden-brown potato with a thin, crisp crust and an interior that was soft and dense, although still slightly dry.
While researching, we came across some recipes that called for parboiling the potatoes before roasting them. Hoping that this approach would produce a texturally superior potato that retained more of its moisture after cooking, we tried boiling the potatoes for seven minutes prior to roasting. This produced a potato closer to our ideal.
We then tried covering the potatoes for a portion of their roasting time. We were especially drawn to this technique because it allowed the potatoes to steam in their own moisture with little extra effort required on the part of the cook. The results were perfect. The crisp, deep golden-brown crust was perfectly balanced by a creamy, moist interior. These potatoes had a sweet and nutty caramelized flavor, with just a hint of tang from the skin. A very simple method had produced the very best potatoes.
The next step in the process was to figure out how to add garlic flavor, which makes a good variation on standard roasted potatoes. If we added minced garlic during the last five minutes of cooking, it burned almost instantly; coating the potatoes with garlic-infused oil failed to produce the strong garlic flavor we were after; and roasting whole, unpeeled garlic cloves alongside the potatoes and squeezing the pulp out afterward to add to the potatoes was tedious. The best method turned out to be both simple and flavorful: mash raw garlic into a paste, place it in a large stainless steel bowl, put the hot roast potatoes into the bowl, and toss. This method yields potatoes with a strong garlic flavor yet without the raw spiciness of uncooked garlic.
Master Recipe
Roasted Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
To roast more than 2 pounds of potatoes at once, use a second pan rather than crowding the first. If your potatoes are as small as new potatoes, cut them in halves instead of wedges and turn them cut-side up during the final 10 minutes of roasting.
2 pounds Red Bliss or other low-starch potatoes, scrubbed, dried, halved, and cut into 3/4-inch wedges
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Toss potatoes and oil in medium bowl to coat; season generously with salt and pepper to taste and toss again to blend.
2. Place potatoes flesh-side down in a single layer on shallow roasting pan; cover tightly with aluminum foil and cook for 20 minutes. Remove foil; roast until side of potato touching pan is crusty golden brown, about 15 minutes more.
3. Remove pan from oven and carefully turn potatoes over using metal spatula (see figure 4). Return pan to oven and roast until side of potato now touching pan is crusty golden brown and skins have raisinlike wrinkles, 5 to 10 minutes more. Remove from oven, transfer potatoes to serving dish (again, using metal spatula and extra care not to rip crusts), and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Roasted Potatoes with Garlic and Rosemary
While potatoes are roasting, mince 2 medium garlic cloves; sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and mash with flat side of chef's knife blade until paste forms. Transfer garlic paste to large bowl; set aside. In last 3 minutes of roasting time, sprinkle 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary evenly over potatoes. Immediately transfer potatoes to bowl with garlic, toss, and serve.
Roasted Potatoes with Garlic, Feta, Olives, and Oregano
While potatoes are roasting, mince 2 medium garlic cloves; sprinkle with 1/8 teaspoon salt and mash with flat side of chef's knife blade until paste forms. Transfer garlic paste to large bowl; add 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese, 12 pitted and chopped kalamata olives, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice; set aside. In last 3 minutes of roasting time, sprinkle 2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano evenly over potatoes. Immediately transfer potatoes to bowl with garlic mixture, toss, and serve.
Roasted Potatoes with Spicy Caramelized Onions
While potatoes are roasting, heat medium skillet over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1 medium onion, halved and sliced thin, and salt and ground black pepper to taste. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized and deep golden brown, about 15 minutes. Stir in 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper and 1 teaspoon ground cumin; cook until fragrant, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to large bowl; add 11/2 teaspoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, and roasted potatoes. Toss and serve.
Figure 4.
Press metal spatula against roasting pan as you slide it under the potatoes to protect the crisp crust. Flip the potatoes so that the other cut sides come into contact with the hot pan.
MASHED POTATOES
POTATOES ARE COMPOSED MOSTLY OF STARCH and water. The starch is in the form of granules, which in turn are contained in starch cells. The higher the starch content of the potato, the fuller the cells. In high-starch potatoes, the cells are completely full—they look like plump little beach balls. In medium-and low-starch potatoes, the cells are more like underinflated beach balls. The space between these less-than-full cells is taken up mostly by water.
In our tests, we found that the full starch cells of high-starch potatoes are most likely to maintain their integrity and stay separate when mashed, giving the potatoes a delightfully fluffy texture. In addition, the low water content of these potatoes allows them to absorb milk, cream, and/or butter without becoming wet or gummy. Starch cells in lower-starch potatoes, on the other hand, tend to clump when cooked and break more easily, allowing the starch to dissolve into whatever liquid is present. The broken cells and dissolved starch make for gummy mashed potatoes.
Conventional recipes call for boiling large chunks of peeled potatoes. Knowing that the skin can keep potatoes from becoming water-logged when boiled, we wondered what would happen if we peeled the potatoes after boiling.
When we boiled whole russet potatoes with their skins on, then peeled and mashed them, the results were fantastic. The mashed potatoes had a stronger potato flavor and the texture was smoother. By comparison, potatoes cooked the conventional way (peeled and cut into chunks) were watery tasting and a bit grainy.
Potatoes boiled with their skins on were also much drier after ricing or mashing. As a result, they could absorb much more dairy and butter than conventionally cooked potatoes. The result is the richest, most delicious mashed potatoes ever. While it is a bit of a pain to peel hot boiled potatoes, we think the results justify this minor inconvenience.
We prefer to force cooked potatoes through a food mill, which turns the potatoes into fine, thin shreds. With the potatoes already mashed, you can blend in milk and butter with a rubber spatula, which is gentle on those starch cells and therefore helps ensure consistently fluffy mashed potatoes. While a ricer works just as well as a food mill, it is less convenient; the container that holds the potatoes is fairly small, so you need to cut the hot potatoes in half.
The more traditional mashers are usually of two types: a disk with large holes in it or a curvy wire loop. We found the disk to be more efficient for reducing both mashing time and the number of lumps in the finished product. (Potatoes mashed in this way, however, will never be silky, as are those put through a food mill or ricer.) If you choose a masher, don't use a spatula to blend in the other ingredients, as recommended with the food mill and ricer, but blend and mash at the same time to minimize stickiness.
Many recipes call for heating milk before adding it, justifying this by saying that cold milk makes mashed potatoes sticky. Our repeated experiments have demonstrated that this is not true. Cold milk does cool the potatoes, which you really don't want. Our choice is to use warm milk, but only because it keeps the potatoes up to temperature. While you can certainly use milk to make mashed potatoes, our tasters preferred versions made with half-and-half, which gives mashed potatoes a richer mouthfeel and flavor. If you insist on using milk, whole milk is superior to low-fat milk.
Master Recipe
Mashed Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
Russet potatoes make slightly fluffier mashed potatoes, but Yukon Golds have an appealing buttery flavor and can be used if you prefer. Mashed potatoes stiffen and become gluey as they cool, so they are best served piping hot. If you must hold mashed potatoes before serving, place them in a heatproof bowl, cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap, and set the bowl over a pot of simmering water. The potatoes will remain hot and soft-textured for one hour.
2 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed
1 cup half-and-half, warmed
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened and cut into 4 equal pieces
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place potatoes in large saucepan with cold water to cover (about 2 quarts). Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce heat, and simmer, covered, until potatoes are just tender when pricked with a thin-bladed knife, about 20 minutes.
2. Peel potatoes by holding in a clean kitchen towel folded twice and using a paring knife to peel skin. Drop them one at a time, cut in half if necessary, into a food mill or ricer and process them back into warm, dry saucepan. (If you don't mind some lumps, drop peeled potatoes back into warm, dry saucepan and mash with potato masher.) Using a rubber spatula, add half-and-half and salt to taste. Add butter, continue to mix until melted. Season generously with pepper and serve hot.
VARIATIONS:
Mashed Potatoes with Parmesan and Lemon
Stir in 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese, after adding half-and-half but before adding butter. Add butter, then stir in minced or grated zest from 2 lemons.
Mashed Potatoes with Pesto
We find it best to use pesto made with half parsley so that the heat of the potatoes doesn't turn the pesto army green.
Place 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts, walnuts, or almonds, 1 peeled garlic clove, 1 cup fresh basil leaves, 1 cup fresh parsley leaves, and 7 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil in workbowl of food processor; process until smooth, stopping as necessary to scrape down sides of bowl. Transfer mixture to small bowl, stir in 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and add salt to taste. Add pesto to the mashed potatoes in place of butter.
Mashed Potatoes with Root Vegetables
Most root vegetables are more watery than potatoes, so you will need less than the full cup of half-and-half.
Replace 1 pound of potatoes with 1 pound of parsnips, rutabagas, celery root, carrots, or turnips that have been peeled and cut into 11/2-to 2-inch chunks. Add half-and-half 1/4 cup at a time until the desired consistency is obtained.
Mashed Potatoes with Garlic and Olive Oil
Add 6 to 8 peeled garlic cloves to saucepan with potatoes in step 1. Replace butter with 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil.
Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes
Buttermilk gives mashed potatoes a pleasing tang and rich texture, even when less butter is used. If you are interested in mashed potatoes with less fat, this is your best option.
Replace half-and-half with 1 cup warmed buttermilk. Reduce butter to 1 tablespoon.
FRIED POTATOES
THE IDEAL FRENCH FRY IS LONG AND CRISP, with sides cut at right angles, a nice crunch on the outside, and an earthy potato taste. Its bass flavor note should be rustic, like a mushroom's, and its high note should hint of the oil in which it was cooked. It should definitely not droop, and its coloring should be two-toned, blond with hints of brown.
Obviously, a good french fry requires the right potato. Would it be starchy or waxy? We tested two of the most popular waxy potatoes, and neither was even close to ideal. During frying, their abundance of water evaporated, leaving hollows inside the potato that filled with oil. The finished fries were greasy. Next we tested the starchy potato most readily available nationwide, the russet. This potato turned out to be ideal, frying up with all the qualities we were looking for.
Because russets are starchy, it is important to rinse the starch off the surface after cutting the potato into fries. To do this, simply put the cut fries in a bowl, place the bowl in the sink, and run cold water into it, swirling with your fingers until the water runs clear. This might seem like an unimportant step, but it makes a real difference. When we skipped the starch rinse, the fries weren't quite right, and the oil clouded.
At this point, you take the second crucial step: Fill the bowl with clear water, add ice, and refrigerate the potatoes for at least 30 minutes. That way, when the potatoes first enter the hot oil, they are nearly frozen; this allows a slow, thorough cooking of the inner potato pulp. When we tried making fries without chilling them first, the outsides started to brown well before the insides were fully cooked.
Our preference is to peel potatoes for french fries. A skin-on fry does not form those little airy blisters, which we like. Peeling the potato also allows the cook to see—and remove—any imperfections or greenish coloring.
What is the right fat for making perfect french fries? To find out, we experimented with lard, vegetable shortening, canola oil, corn oil, and peanut oil. Lard and shortening make great fries, but we figured that for health reasons many cooks won't want to use these products. We moved on to canola oil, but we were unhappy with the results: bland, almost watery fries.
Corn oil was the most forgiving oil in the test kitchen. It rebounded well from temperature fluctuations, and it held up very well when the same oil was used for several batches of fries. What's more, the fries tasted marvelous. Peanut oil also produced good results. A potato fried in peanut oil is light, and the flavor is rich but not dense. The earthy flavor of the potato is there, as with corn oil, but is not overbearing. At this point, we were very close, but something was still missing. The high flavor note, which is supplied by the animal fat in lard, was lacking.
We tried a dollop of strained bacon grease in peanut oil, about two generous tablespoons per quart of oil. The meaty flavor came through, but without its nasty baggage.
So bacon grease appeared to be the animal fat of choice. To be certain of this, we added bacon grease to each of the oils, with these results: canola oil, extra body, but still short on flavor; corn oil, more body, more flavor, nearly perfect; peanut oil, flavor, bite, body, bass notes, high notes galore. At last, an equivalent to lard.
So now it was time to get down to the frying, which actually means double-frying. First, we fried the potatoes at a relatively low temperature to release their rich and earthy flavor. Then we quick-fried them at a higher temperature until they were nicely browned and served them immediately.
For the sake of convenience, we also attempted a single, longer frying. Like many cooks before us, we found that with standard french fries (as opposed to the much thinner shoestring fries), we could not both sear the outside and properly cook the inside in a single visit to the hot fat. When we left them in long enough to sear the outside, we wound up with wooden, overcooked fries.
We found it easy to adapt our recipe for steak fries. In this case, we like to leave the skin on for a more rustic appearance (although it can be removed) and cut the fries into lengths 1/2 inch thick. Frying was exactly the same except that steak fries need a couple of extra minutes on the first frying to color.
Oven fries are a completely different animal. Many cooks don't want to deep-fry because of health concerns. They also don't like the mess associated with deep frying. Recipes for oven-fried potatoes have been popular in recent years, but we had found most oven fries to be a pale imitation of the real thing. We wanted fries that were crisp and golden brown. In addition, the inside had to be fluffy and potatoey tasting.
We first experimented with different ways of cutting the potatoes. We assumed that wedges of some sort would work best. However, because the thickness varies (the ends are thinner, the middle quite thick), we found that wedges cook and color unevenly. We had far better luck when we cut the fries into uniform 1/2-inch-thick lengths, just as we did for steak fries.
As with fries cooked in oil, many sources suggest refrigerating or chilling the raw, cut potatoes in ice water to get oven fries to brown nicely. We found that chilled fries emerged from the oven with a mushy interior and that they were less crisp than potatoes simply cut and oven-fried.
At this point, we wondered if the double-cooking method used with french fries could be adapted to oven fries. We tried steaming the potatoes first, hoping this would set the starches in the fries and help the exterior to crisp up. The potatoes emerged from the steamer quite sticky because of the starches that had been released. We carefully dried the potatoes with a tea towel (they stuck to paper towels) and spread them out in a single layer over a preheated pan.
The fries emerged from the oven crisp and delicious. By getting the potatoes to release some of their starch during steaming, they release less starch in the oven, which allows the exterior to become especially crisp and golden brown.
Master Recipe
French Fries
serves 4
NOTE:
For those who like it, flavoring the oil with a few tablespoons of bacon grease adds a subtle, meaty flavor to the fries. Their texture, however, is not affected if the bacon grease is omitted.
2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and cut into lengths 1/4 by 1/4 inch thick (see figure 5)
2 quarts peanut oil
4 tablespoons strained bacon grease (optional)
3 large brown paper bags
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Rinse cut fries in large bowl under cold running water until water turns from milky colored to clear. Cover with at least 1 inch of water, then cover with ice. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes. (Can be refrigerated up to 3 days ahead.)
2. In 5-quart pot or Dutch oven fitted with clip-on-the-pot candy thermometer, or in large electric fryer, heat oil over medium-low heat to 325 degrees. As oil heats, add bacon grease. Oil will bubble up when you add fries, so be sure you have at least 3 inches of room at top of cooking pot.
3. Pour off ice and water, quickly wrap potatoes in a clean tea towel, and thoroughly pat dry. Increase heat to medium-high and add half of fries, a handful at a time, to hot oil. Fry, stirring with Chinese skimmer or slotted spoon with large holes, until potatoes are limp and soft and start to turn from white to blond, 6 to 8 minutes. (Oil temperature will drop 50 to 60 degrees during this frying.) Use skimmer or slotted spoon to transfer fries to brown paper bag; spread out on bag to drain. Fry remaining potatoes and drain on second bag. Let fries rest at least 10 minutes. (Can stand at room temperature up to 2 hours.)
4. When ready to serve fries, reheat oil to 375 degrees. Using paper bag as a funnel, pour potatoes from one bag into hot oil. Discard bag and open a clean bag on counter. Fry potatoes, stirring fairly constantly, until golden brown and puffed, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to open paper bag. Fry remaining potatoes and add to new bag with other fries. Season to taste with salt and pepper or other seasoned salt, close bag, and shake well so bag absorbs excess oil and fries are coated evenly with seasonings. Remove fries from bag and serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Spicy Fries
Combine 1 teaspoon chili powder, 1 teaspoon sweet paprika, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, and 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper in small bowl. Use this mixture in place of black pepper (and with salt) in step 4.
Steak Fries
Peel potatoes or scrub well and leave peels on. Cut into lengths 1/2 by 1/2-inch thick. Proceed as directed in recipe for french fries, increasing frying time in step 3 to 10 minutes.
Figure 5.
For standard fries, slice peeled potatoes lengthwise into ovals about 1/4-inch thick. Stack several ovals on top of each other and slice them into 1/4-inch thick lengths.
Master Recipe
Oven Fries
serves 4
NOTE:
Like french fries, oven fries are twice-cooked for the best texture. First, they are steamed to cook the interior partially and set the starch. Next, they are baked in a hot oven until the exterior is crisp. Make sure to preheat the greased baking sheets as directed. Adding the steamed potatoes to a hot pan makes a difference. There's no need to turn fries. The bottom becomes especially crisp, while the other sides turn golden brown.
4 teaspoons peanut oil
2 pounds russet potatoes, scrubbed and cut into lengths 1/2 by 1/2 inch thick
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Put 1/2 teaspoon oil on each of two rimmed baking sheets. Use paper towel to spread oil evenly over entire surface, and place both sheets in oven. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Rinse cut fries in large bowl under cold running water until water turns from milky colored to clear.
2. Fit large pot or Dutch oven with steamer basket; fill with enough water to reach just below bottom of basket. Bring water to boil over high heat; add potatoes to basket. Cover and steam for 5 minutes, until potatoes are glistening but still very firm. Remove potatoes and spread out in single layer on two clean tea towels. Pat dry using a third tea towel.
3. Toss potatoes and remaining tablespoon of oil in medium bowl to coat; season generously with salt and pepper to taste and toss again to blend. Carefully remove one baking sheet from oven and place half of potatoes on baking sheet so they are spread out and not touching each other. Place baking sheet back in oven and repeat process using second baking sheet and remaining potatoes.
4. Bake until potatoes are deep golden brown and have begun to puff, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Oven Fries with Indian Spices
Combine 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, and 11/2 teaspoons curry powder in small bowl. Add spice mixture to steamed potatoes along with salt and pepper in step 3.
Oven Fries with Cheese
Replace pepper in step 3 with 1 teaspoon sweet paprika. When potatoes are done, pull all fries close together on one baking sheet, sprinkle evenly with 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese, and return to oven until cheese melts, about 1 minute. Serve immediately.
POTATO SALAD
POTATO SALADS COME IN NUMEROUS STYLES. Though recipes may seem dramatically different, most have four things in common—potatoes, of course; fat (usually bacon, olive oil, or mayonnaise); an acidic ingredient, usually vinegar, to perk things up; and flavorings for distinction. Though these salads may be very different in character, the issues affecting all of them, it turns out, are much the same.
We first wanted to know what type of potato should be used and how should it be cooked. Recipe writers seemed split down the middle between starchy and waxy potatoes, with starchy praised for being more absorbent and waxy admired for their sturdiness. We have always just boiled potatoes with the skin on, but steaming, microwaving, roasting, and baking are all options.
Next, when should the potato be peeled? On the assumption that hot potatoes are more absorbent, some thought it worth scorching fingertips to get the cooked potatoes peeled and cut immediately. Other recipe writers were more casual—"peel when cool enough to handle." Still others instructed us to refrigerate the cooled potatoes, then peel and cut the next day. And, of course, you may wonder whether you really need to peel them at all.
Finally, should potatoes be seasoned when still warm, assuming that they do absorb flavorings better in this state? Is it worth the two-step process of seasoning the potatoes with vinegar (or vinaigrette), salt, and pepper first? Or should you toss everything together at the same time?
After boiling, steaming, baking/roasting, and microwaving four different varieties of potatoes—Red Bliss, russets, potatoes labeled "all-purpose" in the market, and Yukon Golds—we found Red Bliss to be the potato of choice and boiling the cooking method of choice. Higher-starch potatoes—russets, all-purpose, and Yukon Golds—are not sturdy enough for salads. They fell apart when cut and looked sloppy in salad form.
Before giving up on high-starch potatoes, though, we wanted to test their absorption power, a selling point for many cooks. A number of potato salad recipes suggested an initial drizzling of vinegar over warm or hot salad potatoes to make them taste seasoned from within as well as dressed from without.
We found that high-starch potatoes are indeed more absorbent than the lower-starch varieties—to a fault. When tossed with vinegar, the high-starch potato salads tasted dry, sucking up all the vinegar and asking for more. These mealy, high-starch potatoes, we determined, were great for mashing or baking, but not for salad. The low-starch boiling potatoes successfully absorbed the vinegar but still remained firm and creamy.
Next we wanted to see if we could boost flavor at the cooking stage by boiling the potatoes in chicken broth and in water heavily seasoned with bay leaves and garlic cloves. The chicken stock may as well have been water—there wasn't even a hint of evidence that the potatoes had been cooked in stock. The bay leaves and garlic smelled wonderful as the potatoes cooked, but the potatoes were still bland-tasting (although the skins smelled faintly of garlic).
We tried boiling potatoes without the skin, but they were waterlogged compared with their skin-on counterparts. In salad form all the potatoes had a sloppy, broken look, and they tasted watery.
Although we might not want to eat the skin of a boiled Idaho in a salad, we found the paper-thin skin of the boiled red potato not unpleasant to taste and certainly pleasant to look at in what is often a monochromatic salad. Although this saved the peeling step, we found the skin tended to rip when cutting the potato. Because this was especially true when the potatoes were very hot, we solved the problem in two ways. First, we cut the potatoes with a very sharp knife, which minimized ripping, and second, we found it wasn't necessary to cut them when they were hot, since warm ones are just as absorbent.
By this time we had learned that warm potatoes do absorb vinegar better than cold potatoes, but we weren't necessarily sure where we wanted the acidity: Should it be in the potato, in the dressing, or in both? After much testing, we concluded that warm potatoes can be sprinkled with two tablespoons of vinegar; add more vinegar, though, and the potatoes will taste pickled. If the salad needs more vinegar, just add it to the dressing.
Master Recipe
Boiled Potatoes for Salad
NOTE:
Potato salad starts with boiled potatoes. In our testing, we found that low-starch potatoes such as Red Bliss provide the sturdy texture needed to stand up to dressing. Baking potatoes tend to fall apart and produce a sloppy-looking salad. Make sure to cook the potatoes with their skins on to prevent them from becoming waterlogged. Cool the potatoes slightly, peel if desired, and then dress.
2 pounds Red Bliss potatoes (about 6 medium), scrubbed
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place potatoes in 6-quart pot and cover with water. Bring to boil, cover, and simmer, stirring once or twice to ensure even cooking, until thin-bladed paring knife or metal cake tester inserted into a potato can be removed with no resistance, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Drain and cool potatoes slightly. Peel if desired. Cut potatoes as directed in following recipes while still warm, rinsing knife occasionally in warm water to remove gumminess. Proceed as directed in one of the following recipes.
American-Style Potato Salad with Eggs and Sweet Pickles
serves 6 to 8
NOTE:
Use sweet pickles, not relish, for the best results in this recipe.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
3 hard-boiled eggs, peeled and cut into small dice
2 large scallions, sliced thin
1 small celery stalk, cut into small dice
1/4 cup sweet pickles, cut into small dice
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato cubes in medium bowl, sprinkling with vinegar, salt, and pepper as you go. Refrigerate while preparing remaining ingredients.
2. Mix in remaining ingredients, adjust seasonings, and refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 1 day.
French-Style Potato Salad with Tarragon Vinaigrette
serves 6
NOTE:
If fresh tarragon is not available, increase the parsley to three tablespoons and use tarragon vinegar in place of the white wine vinegar.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad, cut into slices 1/4-inch thick
4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 medium shallot, minced
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh tarragon leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato slices in medium bowl, sprinkling with 2 tablespoons vinegar and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing dressing.
2. Whisk remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar, mustard, and shallot together in small bowl. Whisk in oil so that mixture is somewhat emulsified. Pour over potatoes and toss lightly to coat. Refrigerate salad until ready to serve, up to 1 day.
3. Bring salad to room temperature, stir in parsley and tarragon, adjust seasonings, and serve.
German-Style Potato Salad with Bacon and Balsamic Vinegar
serves 6
NOTE:
Smaller new potatoes are more attractive in this recipe. The slices are smaller and tend not to break up as much as those from bigger potatoes. Cider vinegar is more traditional, but we like the sweeter, fuller flavor of the balsamic vinegar.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad, cut into slices 1/4-inch thick
1/4 cup balsamic or cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
4–5 slices bacon (about 4 ounces), cut crosswise into 1/4-inch strips
1 medium onion, diced
2 tablespoons vegetable oil, if needed
1/2 cup beef broth
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato slices in medium bowl, sprinkling with 2 tablespoons vinegar and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing dressing.
2. Fry bacon in medium skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes. Transfer bacon with slotted spoon to bowl of potatoes. Add onion to bacon drippings and sauté until softened, 4 to 5 minutes. If necessary, add oil to yield 2 tablespoons unabsorbed fat.
3. Add beef broth and bring to boil. Stir in remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar. Remove from heat and pour mixture over potatoes. Add parsley and toss gently to coat. Serve warm or tepid. (Salad may be covered and set aside at room temperature for several hours.)
Southwestern-Style Potato Salad with Chiles and Cilantro
serves 6
NOTE:
This colorful salad is moderately spicy; adjust the amounts of jalapeno and cayenne to increase or decrease the heat.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad, cut into 3/4-inch cubes
5 tablespoons lime juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon minced or grated lime zest
1/8–1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon minced jalapeno chile
6 tablespoons canola oil
1 medium red bell pepper, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons minced red onion
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Layer warm potato cubes in medium bowl, sprinkling with 2 tablespoons lime juice and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing dressing.
2. Combine remaining 3 tablespoons lime juice, zest, cayenne, cumin, and jalapeno in small mixing bowl. Gradually whisk in oil so that mixture is somewhat emulsified. Pour over potatoes; toss lightly to coat. Mix in bell pepper and onion. Adjust seasonings, adding cayenne and more salt, if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 1 day.
3. Bring salad to room temperature, stir in cilantro, adjust seasonings, and serve.
Potato-Beet Salad with Horseradish and Sour Cream Dressing
serves 6
NOTE:
To simplify preparation, we wanted to cook the potatoes and beets together. We found that large potatoes and small beets will cook at the same rate and can be boiled together. Surprisingly, the beets do not stain the potatoes as long as the beets are cooked unskinned. If you must use smaller potatoes or larger beets, cook them separately.
1 recipe Boiled Potatoes for Salad, made with 1 pound Red Bliss potatoes (3 medium) and 1 pound beets (5 small) with 1 inch of stem and root attached to prevent bleeding
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons or more prepared horseradish
2 medium celery stalks, cut into 1/4-inch dice
2 tablespoons minced red onion
1/4 cup minced fresh dill leaves
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Drain and cool potatoes and beets slightly. Peel potatoes if desired. Rub skins off beets with paper towel or your fingers and discard stems and roots. Cut potatoes and beets into quarters and then into slices 1/4-inch thick while still warm, rinsing knife occasionally in warm water to remove gumminess.
2. Layer warm potato and beet slices in medium bowl, sprinkling with vinegar and salt and pepper as you go. Let stand at room temperature while preparing remaining ingredients.
3. Combine sour cream and horseradish in small bowl. Taste and add more horseradish, if desired. Mix dressing with potatoes and beets; toss lightly to coat. Mix in celery and onion. Adjust seasonings, adding more salt or a touch of vinegar if desired. Refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 1 day.
4. Bring salad to room temperature, stir in dill, adjust seasonings, and serve.
BOILED POTATOES
MOST OFTEN WE BOIL POTATOES FOR salad. However, freshly dug baby or new potatoes can be boiled, buttered, and served hot as a side dish.
From our initial tests we knew that having a range of sizes in the pot was problematic. The small potatoes overcooked and their skins split when cooked with larger potatoes. Use potatoes that are all the same size.
While large potatoes are fine for salad, we think that the best potatoes for boiling and buttering are small—less than 21/2 inches in diameter and preferably smaller. These potatoes cooked more evenly—larger ones tended to get a bit mushy right under skin by the time the center was cooked through.
From previous tests, we knew that you must boil potatoes with their skins on to prevent them from becoming watery. However, we found that the flesh on a boiled potato must be exposed at some point so that it can soak up the butter and seasonings. When we tossed drained, whole, skin-on potatoes in a bowl with butter, the butter just stayed in the bowl—it could not penetrate the skin.
We tried peeling a thin band around the center of each potato before boiling to eliminate the need to cut them after cooking. This test failed. Once the potatoes were cooked, the skin that had been left on started to break away from the flesh, and the flesh, too, was breaking apart.
For the best flavor, we found it necessary to cut the potatoes in half after boiling. Although a bit tedious, we found that holding the hot potatoes one at a time with a pair tongs and then slicing them with a knife worked well. Once all of the potatoes were cut in half, we immediately added them to the bowl with the butter. As soon as the potatoes are coated with fat, the seasonings can be added.
Not only are cut boiled potatoes more flavorful, but they have a nicely moist mouthfeel. Comparatively, the potatoes left whole were dry and bland.
Master Recipe
Boiled Potatoes with Butter
serves 4
NOTE:
Refer to the chart Estimated Boiling Time For Potatoes for precise cooking times for potatoes of various size. If using potatoes more than 2 inches in diameter, consider cutting them into quarters in step 3 for maximum absorption of the seasonings and ease of eating.
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 pounds small Red Bliss or new potatoes, scrubbed
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place butter in medium serving bowl and set it aside to soften while preparing and cooking potatoes.
2. Place potatoes in 6-quart pot; cover with water and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer, stirring once or twice to ensure even cooking, until a thin-bladed paring knife or metal cake tester inserted into a potato can be removed with no resistance. Drain potatoes.
3. Cut potatoes in half, using a pair of tongs to steady hot potatoes and a sharp knife to cut them (see figure 6). Place halved potatoes in bowl with butter and toss to coat. Season with salt and pepper to taste and toss again to blend. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS:
Boiled Potatoes with Butter and Chives
Add 3 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives to potatoes with salt and pepper in step 3.
Boiled Potatoes with Lemon, Parsley, and Olive Oil
Replace butter with 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. Add the minced zest of 1 lemon and 3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves to potatoes with salt and pepper in step 3.
Boiled Potatoes with Mustard, Shallots, and Tarragon
Fresh dill can be used in place of the tarragon if you prefer.
Blend 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard into butter with fork or rubber spatula once butter has softened. Add 1 tablespoon minced shallots and 2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves to potatoes with salt and pepper in step 3.
ESTIMATED BOILING TIME FOR POTATOES
Depending on their size, small potatoes can take from 8 to 18 minutes to cook through. Use the following chart and, of course, test the potatoes with a paring knife as directed. To ensure even cooking, choose potatoes that are all the same size. The cooking time starts once the potatoes are covered and begin to simmer.
Figure 6.
Potatoes should be boiled whole and unpeeled so that they don't become soggy. After boiling, however, the potatoes should be cut in half, because the fleshy portion of the potato absorbs butter and seasonings far better than the skin. Steady the hot potato with a pair of tongs while cutting it with a sharp knife.
SAUTÉED POTATOES
CRISP SLICES OR CHUNKS OF SAUTÉED POTATOES (often called home fries) are a breakfast favorite. They also make an excellent side dish for dinner. Some recipes suggest that potatoes can be sautéed without precooking. Most sources, however, start by boiling or baking potatoes and then sautéing to get them crisp. We started with questions about the potatoes (the type, whether or not they should be peeled, whether to slice or dice) and then moved on to test various cooking methods.
Yukon Golds were the clear favorites in our testing. They produced home fries with a rich golden color and crisp exterior. Starchier russet potatoes fell apart in our tests and are not recommended. Red potatoes are fine but could not match the Yukon Golds in terms of appearance or flavor.
All of our testers preferred the texture and flavor that the skin added, so we decided not to peel potatoes for home fries. We found that sliced potatoes were much harder to cook than diced potatoes. A pound of sliced potatoes stacks up three or four layers deep in a large skillet, and the result is uneven cooking, with some potatoes burned and others undercooked. Potatoes cut into 1/2-inch dice brown much more evenly. We found that a 12-inch skillet can hold 11/4 pounds of diced potatoes in a single layer.
In our tests, raw potatoes, no matter how small they were cut, burned before the interior had cooked sufficiently. We decided to precook the potatoes before sautéing.
We started by dicing baked potatoes and found the texture gummy and the exterior not terribly crisp. Potatoes that were boiled until tender and then diced broke down in the pan, and the inside was overcooked by the time the exterior was crisp. We tried braising diced potatoes, figuring we could cook them through in a covered pan with some water and fat, remove the cover, let the water evaporate, and then crisp up the potatoes in the remaining fat. Although this sounds like a good idea, each time the potatoes stuck horribly to the pan.
The best results occurred when we boiled diced potatoes briefly, drained them, and then sautéed them. Since the potatoes were drained once the water came to a boil, they didn't absorb much water and held their shape nicely.
We think potatoes taste best when sautéed in butter, but a combination of oil and butter is much easier to work with and far less likely to burn. We particularly liked the combination of corn oil and butter, but peanut oil, canola oil, or olive oil can be used in place of corn oil.
Master Recipe
Sautéed Potatoes
serves 3 to 4
NOTE:
The potatoes must be cooked in a pan large enough to hold them in a single layer. A 12-inch skillet will do the job. Use a spatula to turn the potatoes as they cook. Work gently so that you don't break the crisp crust that forms on the side cooking against the pan bottom.
11/4 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
11/4 teaspoons salt
11/2 tablespoons corn oil
11/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place potatoes in 6-quart pot; cover with water and add 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. As soon as water begins to boil, drain potatoes well.
2. Heat oil and butter in heavy-bottomed large skillet over medium-high heat until butter foams. Add potatoes and shake pan so that potatoes form a single layer. When potatoes are golden brown on bottom (after about 4 minutes), carefully use a wooden spatula to turn them. Continue cooking potatoes, turning them three or four more times, until nicely browned on all sides, about 15 to 20 minutes in total. Season with remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and pepper to taste and stir. Serve immediately or keep warm in preheated 300-degree oven for up to 20 minutes.
VARIATIONS:
Sautéed Potatoes with Rosemary and Garlic
Replace corn oil and butter with 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil. When potatoes are browned on all sides, add 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary and 1 teaspoon minced garlic. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes over low heat, shaking pan frequently to coat potatoes with rosemary and garlic and to cook garlic. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Home Fries
While potatoes are being blanched, heat 1 tablespoon corn oil in large, heavy-bottomed skillet. Add 1 medium onion, chopped fine, and sauté over medium-high heat until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Scrape onions into bowl. Add 11/2 tablespoons oil and 11/2 tablespoons butter to empty pan as directed in step 2. Cook potatoes as directed. When potatoes are browned all over, return onions to pan along with 1 teaspoon paprika and stir to coat. Season with salt and pepper as directed and serve.
Spicy Home Fries
Follow Home Fries variation, adding a pinch or two of cayenne pepper to potatoes along with paprika.
Home Fries with Bell Pepper and Cumin
Follow Home Fries variation, cooking 1 finely chopped red or green bell pepper with onion. Remove pepper with onion and add back to pan along with paprika and 1 teaspoon ground cumin. Season with salt and pepper as directed and serve.
HASH BROWNS
HASH BROWNS ARE BEST DEFINED AS THIN, crisp sautéed potato cakes made with grated or chopped potatoes, raw or precooked. We tested various kinds of potatoes and found high-starch russets to yield the best results overall. They adhered well, browned beautifully, and had the most pronounced potato flavor.
Our next challenge was to decide between raw and precooked potatoes. Precooked potatoes tasted good, but when chopped they did not stay together in a cohesive cake, and when grated they needed to be pressed very hard to form a cake. Unfortunately, this meant they ended up having the mouthfeel of fried mashed potato. Although this is an acceptable alternative if you have leftover cooked potatoes, we preferred using raw, grated potatoes. We also liked the more textured interior, the pronounced potato taste, and the way the raw shreds of potatoes formed an attractive, deeply browned crust.
Choosing the best method for cutting the potatoes was easy. In our tests, chopped potatoes never stayed together in the pan. No matter how finely diced, they were simply chopped, sautéed potatoes, not hash browns. Grating the potatoes on the large-hole side of a box grater or with the shredding disk on a food processor yielded hash browns that formed a coherent cake when cooked.
After cooking countless batches of hash browns, we found that the pan itself was an important factor. A skillet with sloping sides makes it considerably easier to press the potatoes into a flattened shape, invert them, and slide them from the pan. All of these tasks were difficult in a straight-sided frying pan. Uncoated stainless steel pans produced the best crust, but nonstick pans provided adequate browning and are far easier to clean.
Hash browns can be made into one or more individual servings or one large portion that can be cut into wedges. If making a single cake, fold it over just before serving so that each wedge of hash brown has four (not just two) crisp edges. No matter how you choose to present the hash browns, make sure you serve them steaming hot.
Master Recipe
Hash Browns
serves 3 to 4
NOTE:
To prevent potatoes from turning brown, grate them just before cooking. For individual servings, simply divide the grated potatoes into four equal portions and reduce cooking time to 5 minutes per side. To vary flavor, add 2 tablespoons grated onion, 1 to 2 tablespoons herb of choice, or roasted garlic to taste to the raw grated potatoes. You can also garnish the cooked hash browns with snipped chives or scallion tops just before serving.
1 pound russet potatoes, peeled, washed, and dried
1/4 teaspoon salt
Ground black pepper
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Using shredding disk of food processor or large holes on box grater, coarsely grate potatoes. Wrap grated potatoes in clean kitchen towel and squeeze dry (see figure 7). Toss fully dried grated potatoes (you should have about 11/2 cups) with salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl.
2. Meanwhile, heat half the butter in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat until it just starts to brown, then scatter potatoes evenly over entire pan bottom. Using wide spatula, firmly press potatoes to flatten; reduce heat to medium and continue cooking until dark golden brown and crisp, 7 to 8 minutes.
3. Invert hash browns, browned-side up, onto large plate; add remaining butter to pan. Once butter has melted, slide hash browns back into pan. Continue to cook over medium heat until second side is dark golden brown and crisp, 5 to 6 minutes longer.
4. Fold potato round in half (see figure 8) and cook 1 minute longer. Slide hash browns onto plate or cutting board, cut into wedges, and serve immediately.
VARIATION:
Hash Browns with Smoked Cheddar and Herbs
Add 11/2 teaspoons each minced fresh parsley, dill, and chives to grated potatoes in step 1. Cook as directed. After second side has turned dark brown and crisp in step 3, cover half of cake with 1/4 cup shredded smoked cheddar. Continue with step 4, folding uncovered half of cake over cheese-covered half. Cook until cheese melts, about 2 minutes. Serve immediately.
Figure 7.
To release water from the grated potatoes, place them in a towel, and, using two hands, twist the towel tightly to squeeze out as much moisture as possible.
Figure 8.
Just before serving, fold the large flat hash brown cake over, omelet style. When cut into wedges, each piece will then have four crisp edges.
LATKES
LATKES ARE THICK, GRATED POTATO PANCAKES that are pan-fried in vegetable oil. They should be golden and very crisp on the exterior, creamy and moist on the interior.
We tested russets, red potatoes, and Yukon Golds. The russet potato pancakes had a pleasantly pronounced potato flavor and dry texture. The red potato pancakes were at the other end of the spectrum; very creamy, almost gluey on the side. The Yukon Gold pancakes were an attractive yellow-gold color, tasted somewhat sweet and mild, and were creamy in texture but not gluey at all. The pancakes made with Yukon Gold potatoes were deemed the best, followed closely by the pancakes made with the russets.
In our tests, we found that most latke recipes produce pancakes that are either thick and creamy or thin and crisp. We wanted a thick pancake with a creamy center, but the exterior had to be lacy and crisp
Shredded potatoes make latkes that are very crisp and lacy on the exterior. For a creamier interior, we found it best to grind the potatoes to a coarse puree. We decided to use both shredded and more finely grated potatoes. We simply took some of the shredded potatoes out of the food processor and pulsed those remaining (with the onion added) until pretty fine. This two-step procedure gave us the best of both worlds: latkes with an exterior that cooked up crisp because of the larger shred and an interior that was thick and chewy, like a traditional pancake.
Many recipes use a lot of flour or matzo meal as a binder. These starches help soak up some of the moisture the cut potatoes exude. Unfortunately, starches can make latkes heavy. We decide to press out some of the moisture by hand and then lightly bind the potatoes with the starch that settles to the bottom of the bowl filled with the potato water.
We found the temperature of the oil to be crucial to frying the perfect latkes. Unfortunately, there's not enough oil in the pan to use a thermometer. Instead, you must look for visual clues. When the oil is hot enough for frying, it will shimmer on the surface and look kind of wavy.
Latkes
makes fourteen 3-inch pancakes
NOTE:
Matzo meal is a traditional binder, though we found that the pancake was neither improved nor harmed by the addition of this ingredient in small amounts. Applesauce and sour cream are the classic accompaniments for latkes. This recipe will serve four to six people.
2 pounds Yukon Gold or russet potatoes, peeled
1 medium onion, peeled and cut into eighths
1 large egg
4 medium scallions, white and green parts, minced
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley leaves
2 tablespoons matzo meal (optional)
11/2 teaspoons salt
Ground black pepper
1 cup vegetable oil for frying
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Grate potatoes in food processor fitted with shredding blade. Place half the potatoes in fine mesh sieve set over medium bowl and reserve. Fit food processor with metal blade, add onion, and pulse with remaining potatoes until all pieces measure roughly 1/8 inch and look coarsely chopped, 5 to 6 one-second pulses. Mix with reserved potato shreds in sieve and press against sieve to drain as much liquid as possible into bowl below. Let potato liquid in bowl stand until starch settles to bottom, about 1 minute. Pour off liquid, leaving starch in bowl. Beat egg, the potato mixture, and remaining ingredients except oil into starch.
2. Heat 1/4-inch depth of oil in large skillet over medium-high heat until shimmering but not smoking. Working one at a time, place 1/4 cup potato mixture, squeezed of excess liquid and pressed into a disc 1/2 inch thick, in oil. Press gently with nonstick spatula; repeat until 5 latkes are in pan.
3. Maintaining heat so fat bubbles around edges of latkes, fry until golden brown on bottom and edges, about 3 minutes. Turn with spatula and continue frying until golden brown all over, about 3 minutes more. Drain on triple thickness of paper towels set on wire rack over jelly roll pan. Repeat with remaining potato mixture, returning oil to temperature between each batch and replacing oil after second batch. (Cooled latkes can be covered loosely with plastic wrap, held at room temperature for 4 hours, transferred to a heated cookie sheet, and baked in a 375-degree oven until crisp and hot, about 5 minutes). Season with salt and pepper to taste and serve immediately.
POTATO GRATIN
A POTATO GRATIN—ALSO KNOWN AS SCALLOPED potatoes—consists of thinly sliced potatoes covered by a liquid and baked in a wide, shallow baking pan until the potatoes are tender and the top gets a burnished crust. Most recipes follow the same procedure: Rub an ovenproof dish with garlic, brush it with butter, layer it with sliced potatoes, add seasonings and just enough liquid to cover the potatoes, and bake.
We tried all the major potato varieties, including all-purpose whites, boilers, yellow-fleshed, and new potatoes. All made tasty gratins, but we did find subtle variations in flavor and texture—waxy potatoes ended up firmer, for example, while floury baking potatoes were more tender. However, the differences were relatively slight, and we began to suspect that the way the potato is sliced is more significant than which type is used.
We found that potatoes cut into 1/16-inch slices soaked up the cooking liquid and melted into a cakelike texture. When sliced 1/8-inch thick, however, they kept their shape nicely throughout baking but still melded together. When sliced too thick (1/4 inch or more), however, the potato slices did not properly meld together in the oven. Don't slice potatoes in advance and hold them in water. We found that this caused their starch to leech out, resulting in a bland gratin with layers that do not hold together properly.
The pan in which you make a gratin is an important consideration. A standard gratin dish is oval, 10 to 12 inches long, and 6 to 8 inches wide. As it turns out, the dimensions of the pan are more important than the material it's made of. We cooked successful gratins in a variety of dishes, from classic enamel to earthenware to ovenproof glass—the key is that they were all shallow. Two to three layers of potatoes should come about three quarters of the way up the sides of the pan so they cook evenly and have a broad surface area to brown.
We found 350 degrees to be the best oven temperature. At higher temperatures, the slices on the top of the gratin tended to dry out and become tough. We also discovered that it helps to baste the top slices once or twice during the cooking so they stay moist and brown evenly.
We made gratins using a variety of liquids, including whole milk, low-fat milk, half-and-half, heavy cream, meat broths, and water. The heavy cream had a tendency to break up and become greasy, particularly at higher temperatures. The low-fat milk, on the other hand, was insipid, while the whole milk was almost completely soaked up by the potatoes, leaving only a light curd between the layers. Our favorite all-purpose dairy cooking medium turned out to be half-and-half. The gratins we made with it had just the right balance of saturated potato and saucy liquid, without overwhelming the taste of the potato. They were also easy to prepare.
Until this point, we had tried pouring cold liquids over the layered potatoes and baking them. We wondered if we could cut the cooking time by heating the potatoes and liquid beforehand. We placed a pound of sliced potatoes, enough liquid to barely cover them, salt, and pepper into a saucepan and brought the liquid to a boil, stirring occasionally so the potatoes didn't scorch or stick. We next lowered the heat and simmered the mixture until the liquid thickened. Finally, we poured the potatoes into a baking dish and finished them in a 350-degree oven.
This method proved to possess many benefits. The cooking time was reduced, the assembly of the gratin took less time, and, because the seasoning was added to the liquid, the final product was evenly seasoned.
There are several ways to enhance the crust from which these dishes get their name (the French word gratin means "crust"). Dotting the top with butter makes for a golden crust, as does cheese. A nice finish can also be achieved by pouring a thin layer of cream over the top of the gratin for the final 20 or 30 minutes of baking. This cap of cream browns evenly without greasy edges.
Potato Gratin
serves 4 to 6
NOTE:
Russet potatoes will produce a more tender gratin; slices of waxy new potatoes will be firmer. Use either, depending on your personal preference. For a more pronounced crust, sprinkle three tablespoons of heavy cream or grated Gruyère cheese on top of the potatoes after 45 minutes of baking. A mandolin or V-slicer will make quick work of the potatoes, but a sharp chef's knife can be used if you prefer.
1 large garlic clove, peeled and smashed
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened
21/4 cups half-and-half
11/4 teaspoons salt
1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper
Pinch grated nutmeg
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
2 pounds potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/8-inch thick
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 350 degrees. Rub bottom and sides of 5-to 6-cup gratin dish or shallow baking dish with garlic. Mince remaining garlic and set aside. Once garlic in dish has dried, about 2 minutes, spread dish with half the butter.
2. Bring half-and-half, salt, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne (if desired), potatoes, and reserved garlic to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally with wooden spoon (liquid will just barely cover potatoes). Reduce heat and simmer until liquid thickens, about 2 minutes.
3. Pour potato mixture into prepared dish; shake dish or use fork to distribute potatoes evenly. Gently press down on potatoes until submerged in liquid; dot with remaining butter.
4. Bake until top is golden brown (basting once or twice during first 45 minutes), about 75 minutes. Let rest 10 minutes and serve.
SWEET POTATOES
SWEET POTATOES, OFTEN MISLABELED AS YAMS IN markets (a yam is actually a huge tropical tuber covered with thick, brown skin), come in two distinct types—dry and moist. Dry sweet potatoes have white-to-yellow flesh, while moist ones have orange flesh. The second variety appears more often in markets.
Dry sweet potatoes are slightly sweet and mealy, almost like a russet potato. Moist sweet potatoes have a higher sugar content and are dense, watery, and more easily caramelized. Neither variety should be washed until just before cooking, as sweet potatoes have thin skins that can go soft very easily. Refrigeration is a no-no; it causes the flesh to soften and promotes the growth of mold. Store sweet potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot.
Master Recipe
Sweet Potato Casserole
serves 8 to 12
NOTE:
Most holiday sweet potato casseroles are too sweet and swimming in butter. This casserole is sweet but not cloying, rich but not fatty. In our tests, we found that parboiling the sweet potatoes is essential. It sets their bright orange color and releases their sugars. Casseroles made with potatoes that were not precooked were dry and less flavorful.
3 pounds sweet potatoes (about 6 medium), peeled, halved lengthwise, and halves cut crosswise into 1/4-inch slices
6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus softened butter for baking dish
2 tablespoons honey
3 tablespoons molasses
1 tablespoon grated fresh gingerroot or 1 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
11/2 tablespoons cornstarch
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 375 degrees. Bring several quarts of water to boil in large pot, add sweet potato slices, and boil over high heat until sweet potatoes are bright orange and the point of a paring knife easily pierces but does not break apart a few slices, 4 to 5 minutes. Drain potatoes well and turn into buttered 13 by 9-inch dish.
2. Whisk melted butter, honey, molasses, ginger, salt, and cayenne in small bowl; set aside. Mix cornstarch with 2 tablespoons cold water in small bowl until totally smooth, then whisk into butter mixture. Pour butter mixture over sweet potatoes and toss to coat well.
3. Cover dish tightly with foil and bake until liquid is bubbly, about 50 minutes. Remove foil, stir potatoes gently, and bake until liquid thickens to glaze potatoes, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly and serve hot or at room temperature.
VARIATIONS:
Sweet Potato Casserole with Maple
Follow recipe for Sweet Potato Casserole, substituting 5 tablespoons maple syrup for honey and molasses.
Sweet Potato Casserole with Orange
Follow recipe for Sweet Potato Casserole, adding 4 teaspoons finely grated orange zest to butter mixture.
Sweet Potato Casserole with Lemon and Bourbon
Follow recipe for Sweet Potato Casserole, adding 3 tablespoons lemon juice to butter mixture and substituting 1/4 cup bourbon for water in cornstarch mixture.
Sweet Potato Casserole with Pecan Topping
Much sweeter than the original recipe, but delicious.
Stir together 6 tablespoons light brown sugar and 1/4 cup flour in small bowl. Add 4 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1/4-inch pieces, and toss to coat. Pinch between fingertips until mixture is crumbly and resembles coarse cornmeal. Stir in 1/2 cup chopped pecans; cover and refrigerate until needed. Follow recipe for Sweet Potato Casserole, sprinkling cold nut mixture over potatoes after removing foil. Proceed as directed, baking until topping is crisp and dark golden brown, about 20 minutes.
Master Recipe
Baked Sweet Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
The skin on baked sweet potatoes can be tough and unappealing, We found that lightly coating the skin with oil softens it slightly and promotes caramelization. This recipe is designed for the orange-flesh varieties of sweet potato that generally show up in supermarkets. If you have white-fleshed sweet potatoes, increase the baking time by about 10 minutes and use plenty of butter to moisten their drier flesh.
4 medium sweet potatoes (about 2 pounds), scrubbed, dried, and lightly pricked with a fork
2 tablespoons vegetable or olive oil
Salt and ground black pepper
Unsalted butter
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Adjust oven rack to center position and heat oven to 400 degrees. Rub potatoes with oil, then arrange on foil-lined baking sheet as far apart as possible.
2. Bake until knife tip slips easily into potato center, 40 to 50 minutes. Remove sweet potatoes from oven and pierce with a fork to create a dotted X (see figure 1). Press in at ends of sweet potato to push flesh up and out (see figure 2). Season with salt and pepper to taste. Dot with butter to taste and serve.
VARIATION:
Mashed Sweet Potatoes
Bake sweet potatoes as directed. As soon as they come out of the oven, remove peels and put sweet potatoes through a ricer or food mill, pressing the tiny bits into a medium bowl. (You can use a potato masher to mash the peeled potatoes in a bowl, but the texture will be coarse and not nearly as silky.) Stir in 5 tablespoons softened butter and salt and pepper to taste. Beat with a spoon until silky and smooth.
Master Recipe
Oven-Fried Sweet Potatoes
serves 4
NOTE:
Make sure to handle sweet potatoes with a thin metal spatula in the oven. You need to loosen them carefully from the baking sheet so that the crusty exterior does not rip or stick to the pan.
4 teaspoons peanut oil
2 pound sweet potatoes (3 large), scrubbed
Salt and ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place 1/2 teaspoon oil on each of two rimmed baking sheets. Use paper towel to spread oil evenly over entire surface and place both sheets in oven. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
2. Cut each sweet potato from end to end into eight thick wedges. Toss sweet potatoes and remaining tablespoon of oil in medium bowl to coat; season generously with salt and pepper to taste and toss again to blend. Carefully remove one baking sheet from oven and place half of sweet potatoes on baking sheet cut-side down; spread them out so they do not touch each other. Place baking sheet back in oven and repeat process using second baking sheet and remaining sweet potatoes.
3. Bake until cut side of sweet potato touching baking sheet is crusty and golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven and carefully turn sweet potatoes, using a metal spatula to loosen them from baking sheet. Bake until second cut side of sweet potato now touching pan is crusty and golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Use metal spatula to transfer sweet potatoes to platter and serve immediately.
VARIATION:
Sweet Potato Oven Fries with Indian Spices
Combine 1 teaspoon ground turmeric, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin, and 11/2 teaspoons curry powder in small bowl. Add spice mixture to potatoes along with salt and pepper in step 2.
PASTA BASICS
COOKING PASTA SEEMS SIMPLE—AFTER ALL, who can't boil water—but there are a number of fine points that can make the difference between decent pasta dishes and great ones. Over the course of several years of writing and cooking about pasta, we have developed the following list of tips.
BUY AMERICAN, IF YOU LIKE. While many sources tout the superiority of Italian pasta, our taste tests have shown this to be a myth. American brands of spaghetti scored just as well as Italian brands, and Ronzoni, which is made by Hershey Foods, topped the rankings. While Italian brands offer a greater variety of shapes—such as ear-like orecchiette or bow tie—shaped farfalle—the quality differences that once existed between domestic and Italian pasta have disappeared.
FLAVORED PASTA LOOKS BETTER THAN IT TASTES. Saffron, beet, and tomato pasta may look great, but the flavor is quite subtle. Even spinach pasta has only the mildest spinach flavor, and it's hard to detect once the noodles have been sauced. Buy flavored pastas if you like, but don't spend extra money thinking they will taste better than plain wheat pasta.
USE DRIED PASTA FOR MOST RECIPES. Fresh pasta, either made at home or at a local pasta shop, is our first choice for lasagne or ravioli. It's also wonderful when cut into fettuccine and then tossed with a cream sauce (the eggs in fresh pasta work well with dairy sauces in general). However, for most uses, dried pasta, which contains just flour and water, is the best choice. Dried pasta has a sturdier texture better suited to many sauces, especially those with vegetables or other large chunks. Dried pasta is also much more convenient than fresh because it has an almost unlimited shelf-life. If you do use fresh pasta, don't buy packages from the refrigerator case in the supermarket. These brands are soft and mushy and have none of the delicacy and subtle egg flavor of fresh pasta made at home or in a pasta shop.
USE ENOUGH WATER. While the brand of pasta may not make much difference, how you cook the pasta does. First and foremost, start with enough water (at least four quarts for a pound of pasta). Cooking pasta in enough water is the single most important factor in preventing sticking. Pasta swells as it rehydrates and if there is not enough room, the result is a sticky mess.
FORGET THE OIL. Some cookbooks suggest adding oil to the cooking water to keep the pasta from sticking together. We have found that abundant water will do this job. Oil will make the pasta slick and therefore less receptive to the sauce and should not be added to the cooking water. However, we do recommend using olive oil in pasta sauces. for a discussion of buying olive oil.
USE PLENTY OF SALT. Pasta cooked without salt is bland, no matter how salty the sauce is. Add at least 1 tablespoon once the water comes to a boil, remembering that most of the salt goes down the drain with the cooking water.
TASTE TO COOK PASTA RIGHT. There are no tricks to tell when pasta is al dente, or cooked "to the tooth." (We tried throwing strands against the ceiling or refrigerator and couldn't tell when that pasta was done, but did we end up with a messy kitchen.) When properly cooked, pasta should be resilient but not chewy. Cooking times on packages or in other cookbooks are often inaccurate because each stove works differently, so tasting pasta is a must. Keep in mind that the pasta will soften a bit further once drained.
DRAIN, DON'T SHAKE. Nothing is worse than a soggy, watery bowl of pasta. However, there is no need to shake the pasta bone-dry either. A little pasta water dripping from the noodles helps thin and spread the sauce. In fact, in many recipes we suggest reserving a little of the cooking water and using it as needed with oil-based sauces that may not moisten the pasta quite enough.
ADD DRAINED PASTA TO SAUCE. For the best flavor and coverage, we like to add the drained pasta right to the pan with the sauce and then toss over low heat for a minute or so. This method promotes the most even coverage and also allows the pasta to actually absorb some of the sauce. Because the pasta will continue to cook in the sauce, undercook it slightly so the strands are not soft by the time they get to the table.
RESERVE SOME OIL. For an added flavor boost, we found it helpful in our testing to save a little of the olive oil for tossing with the drained pasta and sauce. This tip is especially useful when making a simple tomato sauce. The flavor of the oil is released on contact with the hot pasta and the oil helps spread the sauce over the noodles.
DON'T GO OVERBOARD WITH SAUCE. Italians are usually quite restrained in their use of sauces, especially because they generally eat pasta as a first course. We prefer to use slightly more sauce, but not the excessive amount common in many American restaurants. If your pasta is dry, you are not using enough sauce. If you finish the pasta and there is still sauce in the bowl, you are using too much.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT SHAPE. In Italy there is a fine art to matching pasta shapes and sauces. However, we find that there is only one important consideration—the texture of the sauce. A very chunky sauce is better with shells or rigatoni than spaghetti because the former shapes can trap and hold pieces of the sauce, while large chunks of vegetables, for instance, would just sit on top of long, thin strands. The idea is to eat the sauce and pasta in the same mouthful. The headnote to each recipe makes some suggestions about the appropriate pasta shape. See also figures 1 and 2.
SERVING SIZES. Every sauce recipe in this book is designed to coat one pound of pasta. For the most part, one pound of pasta will serve four as a main course. Of course, if the sauce is particularly rich, if there are kids at the table, or if there are a lot of other foods being served, you may be able to get five or six servings. As a first course in the Italian style, a pound of pasta will yield six to eight servings.
USE CHEESE AS YOU LIKE. While grated cheese is a ubiquitous accompaniment to pasta in this country, not so in Italy. Italians would never serve cheese with seafood and often omit it with oil-based vegetable sauces. Of course, you can do as you like. We find that grated cheese works best when the sauce is fairly liquid, made with either cream or tomatoes. Otherwise, the cheese may stick to the pasta and make it seem dry.
Figure 1.
Long strands are best with smooth sauces or sauces with very small chunks. In general, wider long noodles, such as pappardelle and fettuccine, can support slightly chunkier sauces than the very thin noodles. Clockwise from the top right, the shapes shown are fettuccine, linguine, spaghetti, capellini, and pappardelle.
Figure 2.
Short tubular or molded pasta shapes do an excellent job of trapping chunkier sauces. Sauces with very large chunks are best with rigatoni or other large tubes. Sauces with small chunks make more sense with fusilli or penne. Clockwise from the top right, the shapes shown are penne, shells, farfalle, orecchiette, rigatoni, and fusilli.
TOMATO SAUCES
THERE ARE THREE BASIC KINDS OF TOMATO sauce—a cooked sauce based on canned tomatoes, a cooked sauce based on fresh tomatoes, and a raw sauce using super-ripe summer tomatoes.
The first sauce is certainly the most useful (it can be made year-round) and also the most confusing. This basic tomato sauce should be quick to prepare and have as much fresh tomato flavor as possible. We tested dozens of variables, including the type and brand of tomatoes as well as additional ingredients, and came to these conclusions.
For the freshest tomato flavor, stick with canned diced tomatoes, especially those made by Muir Glen, or whole tomatoes packed in juice. (We like whole tomatoes from Muir Glen as well as Progresso.) Other canned tomato products, including whole tomatoes packed in puree and crushed tomatoes, have less fresh tomato flavor because they contain cooked products such as paste and/or puree.
While diced tomatoes are our first choice, you can use whole tomatoes as long as you dice them either by hand or in a food processor. One 28-ounce can of whole tomatoes will yield about 21/2 cups of diced tomatoes. Add some of the packing juice in recipes where slightly more is required.
In addition to the tomato tests, we experimented with seasonings. We found that butter mutes the flavor of the tomatoes and, for most uses, we prefer olive oil. Garlic is essential but can be overpowering. To keep garlic from burning, we puree it with a little water. A little sugar rounds out the flavors and helps balance the sweet and tart elements.
For the other two kinds of tomato sauce using fresh tomatoes, we have a number of recommendations. For cooked sauces, use plum tomatoes unless local round tomatoes are in season. With either variety, peel and seed the tomatoes before cooking them for a meaty-textured sauce. For raw tomato sauces, only local round tomatoes will do. There is no need to peel tomatoes for raw sauces, but do halve and seed the tomatoes to remove excess moisture.
Master Recipe
Simple Tomato Sauce
NOTE: If using whole tomatoes, avoid those packed in sauce or puree—which produces a dull, relatively flavorless sauce without the interplay of sweetness and acidity—and choose a brand packed in juice. You will need to drain the contents of a 28-ounce can and then start dicing and measuring. Depending on the brand, you may need several tablespoons of juice to yield the amount specified below. If you choose Muir Glen Diced Tomatoes, use almost the entire contents of a single 28-ounce can, without discarding any liquid. If you do not have a garlic press, mince the garlic very fine with a little salt (see figure 4) and sauté it for one minute rather than two. Serve with any pasta shape.
22/3 cups diced canned tomatoes
2 medium garlic cloves, peeled (see figure 3)
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil leaves (about 8 leaves)
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
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