Ultimate Cook Book: 900 New Recipes, Thousands of Ideas – Read Now and Download Mobi

The ULTIMATE COOK BOOK

900 New Recipes, Thousands of Ideas

Bruce Weinstein and
Mark Scarbrough

Contents

Acknowledgments

Introduction

Overall Tips for Success

Thirty-One Examples of Culinary Shorthand

Breakfast and Brunch

Breakfast Smoothies

Cereals

Eggs Every Which Way

The Real Reasons for Maple Syrup

Five Breakfast Sides

Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks

No-Cook Spreads, Dips, and Salsas

Cooked Dips

Double-Duty Appetizers

The Classic Cocktails

Easy Nibbles

Cheesy Bits

Fried Bites

Elegant Starters

One Crust, Three Classics: Focaccia, Pissaladière, and Pizza

Pâtés

Stuffed Appetizers

Stuffed Half-Moons

Salads

The Ultimate Salad Bar

Side Salads

Slaws

Luncheon Favorites

Main-Course Salads

Soups

Vegetable Soups

Grain and Legume Soups

Hearty Soups

Cold Soups

Stock

Pasta and Noodles

Homemade Pasta

Three Specialty Pastas

Pasta Sauces

Stuffed Pasta

Pasta Casseroles

Asian Noodles

Bread

Yeast Breads

Quick Breads

Chicken, Turkey, and Other Birds

Chicken

Turkey

Other Barnyard Birds

Water Fowl

Game Birds

Fish and Shellfish

Thin White-Fleshed Fish Fillets

Thick White-Fleshed Fish Fillets

Other Fish Fillets

Fish Steaks

Whole Fish

Fish Burgers and Cakes

Mussels, Clams, Cockles, and Oysters

Shrimp and Scallops

Lobster and Crab

Beef, Pork, and Other Meats

Beef

Veal

Pork

Lamb

Venison and Rabbit

Vegetables

How to Cook Vegetables

Vegetable Side Dishes

Vegetable Casseroles

Main-Course Potato Salads

Grains, Beans, Lentils, and Tofu

Grains

Beans and Lentils

Tofu

Cakes

A Dozen Basic Cakes

Sheet Cakes

Layer Cakes

Cheesecakes

Sponge Rolls

Cupcakes

Coffee Cakes

Cookies

Classic Cookies

Filled Cookies

Bar Cookies

Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Desserts

Pies

Tarts

Cobblers, Crisps, British Puddings, Pandowdies, Slumps, and Brown Betties

Puddings, Custards, Mousses, and Soufflés

Puddings and Custards

Frozen Custards

Mousses

Dessert Soufflés

Tools of the Trade

A Glossary for Some Ingredients

Source Guide

Quick Reference List for Sauces and Rubs

Charts, Conversions, and Substitutions

Searchable Terms.

Other Books by Bruce Weinstein and Mark Scarbrough

Credits

Copyright

About the Publisher

Acknowledgments

IT TOOK US A YEAR TO DEVELOP NINE HUNDRED NEW RECIPES. AND NO ONE can keep up that pace—almost three a day, every day, seven days a week!—without a lot of help.

Our greatest debt is twofold: to Harriet Bell, our editor and publisher at William Morrow; and to Susan Ginsburg, our agent at Writer’s House. Harriet pushes us to avoid cliché, to see the modern food scene through the lens of the modern supermarket, and to forgo the obvious in favor of originality. Susan has championed us and our work over many years, helping us understand the dynamics of the market and making sure we were poised when the door opened. Both of them (along with their husbands, Charlie Allenson and Jerry Webman) have also proven wonderful dinner companions over the years.

Several people took chapters in draft, overlooked the typos, and tested the recipes. These brave folks all had the same assignment: make what ever you want and tell us what happened. Their notes have proven invaluable; we’ve learned lots by seeing what they made—and what they didn’t! Many thanks to Esther Lou Scarbrough, Debbie Weinstein, Julie Weinstein, Amy Kull, Dale Brown, Suzie Hukill, and Jo Booher.

Where would we be without our dedicated coterie of New York eaters? They’ve been game to taste anything—and have rarely turned down a late afternoon invitation to dinner. They offered notes, encouragement, and good humor in the face of the daunting task of eating “the six chicken dishes from today.” We’re so lucky to have Steve Rodgers, Marianne Macy, Leora Perlman and Meredith Green-burg, Steve and Melanie Schwartz, Eric Darton and Katie Kehrig as well as their fabulous daughter Gwen, Paula and Benny Yarkoni, Bill Poock and Felix Lao-Batiz, David Sisson and Scott Stevens, and Phyllis Howe and Richard Brad-spies at our dinner table and thus in our lives. Special thanks to Jennifer Chang, who has eaten more of this book than anyone else and who, when she tasted the Autumn Lasagna, said, “You ought to make a year’s worth of these things.”

We can’t say enough about the generosity of Ariane Daguin at D’Artagnan. She sent boxes of meat, fowl, and even foie gras. When they showed up at our apartment, we were briefly the envy of every foodie we know.

Thanks as well to Oliviers & Co. for a wonderful range of aromatic olive oils that have become an outright addiction. And thanks to Serendipi Tea for a big box of exotic teas. Stephanie Teuwen at Teuwen One Image arranged all these marvels; her support has proved invaluable.

Rival provided us with rice cookers, slow cookers, vacuum sealers, and a range of kitchen appliances that have never left our counters. Thanks to Diane Coffey at The Holmes Group for making that possible.

And OXO offered us kitchen tools that proved indispensable in preparing these recipes. Thanks to Gretchen Holt and Stephanie Karlis for sending us so many goodies.

Finally, we have gorgeous KitchenAid equipment and appliances thanks to Brian Maynard and to Kim Roman at Digitas. Sometimes, it seems we live in a dream.

Over the years, the apparently tireless Beth Shepard at Beth Shepard Communications has worked to provide us with many spokespeople opportunities, among them those with the California Milk Advisory Board, JIF, Smucker’s, Splenda, the National Honey Board, and the U. S. Potato Board.

We’ve had a blast cooking recipes from this book at various cooking schools around the country. Our thanks to Cynthia Liu and Kathleen Taggart at Draeger’s Markets in San Mateo and Menlo Park, California; Phyllis Vaccarelli at Let’s Get Cookin’ in Los Angeles; and the wonderful staff at the Publix Cooking Schools in Tampa and Sarasota, Florida. Thanks to Alicia Laury at Kaplow Communications who helped set up the Florida classes.

Ron and Debbie Eisenberg have given us boundless opportunities. We have great fun at our regular cooking demos in their stores, the Chef’s Centrals in Hartsdale, New York, and in Paramus, New Jersey. We are indulged by their staff and made welcome by all the people who come back time and again to see us.

In honing our craft, we’d be lost without our magazine editors: Jim Romanoff at Eating Well, Tim Cebula and Ann Pittman at Cooking Light, Lisa Chernick at weightwatchers.com, Jill Melton and Candace Floyd at Relish, and Clare Lewis at Today’s Health and Wellness. They have spurred us on to write the best. Plus, Jim brings the best maple syrup from Vermont when he meets us for Chinatown runs.

We’re also grateful to Dave Durian and Mallory Pinkard at WBAL in Baltimore for giving us a chance to strut our stuff on air every Tuesday morning at 7:55.

A book is not only an author’s work; it’s also the work of a publishing house. Lucy Baker and Stephanie Fraser handled all the rarefied and not-so-rarefied details. Sonia Greenbaum did a wonderful job catching all of our pesky errors and straightening out any contorted prose. Once again, Leah Carlson-Stanisic designed a winner and Ann Cahn, as always, kept the whole production schedule moving along. Roberto de Vicq de Cumptich has kept the entire Ultimate series looking beautiful in its design; Carrie Bachman and Milena Perez have worked tirelessly promoting this book and its series. Ken Berger has done wonders with special sales. And many thanks to Emily Saladino, our agent’s assistant, who has the most underrated job in the business. How many panicked author calls can one person field and still remain cool and professional?

And finally, our deep gratitude to our parents who taught us that the good life is always in reach—and, like an apple, to be relished.

Introduction

WHAT, BESIDES CHUTZPAH, MAKES A COOKBOOK THE ULTIMATE? SIX kinds of deviled eggs, a year of lasagne, or a way to make just about every fruit pie? The sheer weight of nine hundred recipes and thousands of variations? Or the fact that two food writers said, “to blazes with our waistlines,” and spent two years cooking and eating our way through the modern supermarket?

No, what makes this cookbook the ultimate is the philosophy we developed in 1999 with The Ultimate Ice Cream Book. In a nutshell, this book takes solid, basic recipes and allows you to customize them endlessly to your taste. You get the best of both worlds: hundreds of recipes from two established food writers, combined with thousands of ways to make the dishes exactly as you want them.

We don’t have employees, we don’t farm the recipes out, and we don’t subcontract their development. We work in our small New York City kitchen (it’s four feet wide, including the appliances) and test every recipe ourselves. Needless to say, our friends eat well.

And the recipes in this book are all original content. We’ve written plenty of single-subject ultimate books. Ten, to be exact—from brownies to chocolate cookies, ice cream to peanut butter, shrimp to potatoes. But this volume isn’t a compilation. Rather, The Ultimate Cook Book picks up where the other single-subject ultimate books left off.

It’s the ultimate expression of our ultimate philosophy: hundreds of base recipes, thousands of variations, nothing complicated, a compendium for all your cooking needs—and a way to take just about every dish and either follow our lead or turn it into something that reflects your taste.

How Did This Ultimate Philosophy Get Started?

It got started (where else?) in New York City. We were talking about (what else?) food. More specifically, our first cookbook. How would we choose between Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Cheesecake Ice Cream, German Chocolate Ice Cream, and Chocolate Banana Chip Ice Cream?

It hit us like a bolt. Most of the time, we want the creamiest, fudgiest chocolate ice cream. After that, we may twist it up a bit and that’s easy enough: just an addition here, a substitution there. But we want solid recipes that we can eventually dress up, take beyond their inception to something more personal.

Who Is an Ultimate Cook?

Everyone, we reckon. We developed and tested the recipes ourselves, then we packed them off in draft to see how well we were doing—never to chefs, culinary professionals, or people in the food business; instead, we sent them to our mothers, cousins, friends, and people we’d never met but who volunteered via e-mail. We gave everyone the same task: make two or three recipes from the chapter, any you choose, and tell us exactly what you did.

Many stuck to the base, but others played with the recipes. “Cinnamon makes me sneeze.” “I hate crunchy peanut butter.” “Who has port?” They liked knowing where to start: a solid, fairly easy recipe with bold flavors using everyday ingredients. They also liked finishing on their own, adding their own nuances to the dish. And that’s the very heart of the ultimate philosophy.

So How Do These Variations and Customizations Work?

In almost all the recipes, it’s a matter of small additions, substitutions, and changes: spices, flavorings, and the like. Some variations may switch out the centerpiece of the dish—say substituting chicken thighs for pork chops. But most are small changes that can add up to big flavors in the dish. In other words, you can choose the dish by its title with the confidence that this is in fact what you’ll get. The nuances can then be rearranged as you like.

In some recipes, the variations are a nutritional matter, best decided by your preference: for example, “1 cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free).” The challenge was to create, say, French toast that lived up to all three options.

A few recipes are road maps that will lead you through various choices to create many different versions of a dish—for example, The Ultimate Granola, Bacon-Wrapped Anything, or Creamy Vegetable Soup.

Finally, some recipes are choices in and of themselves: Spice Rubs for Steaks or No-Fail Roast Turkey with Four Wet Rubs.

What’s Inside This Book?

Breakfast to dessert, the full range. Some recipes are for the experienced cook and some are for those just starting out. For example, there’s a paella for every season, but there are also tips on how to make perfect Scrambled Eggs. There’s a passel of easy chicken or fish sautés, skillet wonders that’ll have dinner on the table in minutes as well as blow-out dinner-party dishes that showcase some of the best of modern American cooking. How about Braised Beef Short Ribs with Cabbage, Port, and Vanilla? Sure, there’s homey chicken pot pie and lots of ways to make just about every good-ol’-American cobbler the market can afford; but there are also international dishes like Jerk Chicken Thighs and Plantains or Vietnamese-Inspired Spiced Pork Soup.

By the way, most of those international dishes are listed as “inspired” (Thai-inspired, Greek-inspired, etc.). The authentic preparation of international dishes often requires obscure ingredients not readily available to home cooks. Anyone for the rind of a Buddha’s hand, a sinewy Malaysian citrus? Our international recipes are reinterpreted with the modern supermarket in mind.

One other thing we should confess up front: we have a preference for food that can be quickly prepared. We shy away from six-hour smoker roasts, triple-raised yeast doughs, and two-day brines. A few are here, but they’re not the norm. Over and over, we’ve asked the same question: how can we get dinner on the table as soon as possible?

The answer, of course, lies in recipes without pitfalls and complicated tricks, recipes that come from two food writers who’ve wandered those supermarket aisles for years, looked at the astounding array of food that’s available, and then tried to come up with a meal that’s satisfying, straightforward, and yet somehow a matter of personal taste.

Overall Tips for Success

• Read the recipe from start to finish. You’ll understand a dish’s flow, discover any quirks, and find out if there’s an unfamiliar ingredient or term you should look up before you start.

• Read around the recipe. There may be alternative recipes before or after the one you’re looking at. Root Vegetable Soup is followed by Potato and Roasted Chile Soup. Is the second recipe more your speed?

• Choose, then shop. Cookbooks work best as planning guides. Yes, we love to experiment. We’ve walked through Chinatown, seen some unfamiliar vegetable, and tried to make dinner out of it. But that’s the exception, not the rule. It’s better to choose a recipe, then shop for what it requires. Spontaneity is overrated at 6:30 p.m.

• Know your ingredients. For any that are unfamiliar, check the Glossary starting on back matter.

• Know your options. We’re all about variations, but we ask you to be sensible and know what you’re doing. We once had someone write to complain that our piecrust was a disaster; on further questioning, she told us that she’d substituted cornstarch for flour. (“They’re both white,” she wrote.) Simple additions like this vinegar instead of that or one spice substituted for another will probably not affect the final dish, but larger substitutions that change the essential chemistry of the cooking may well compromise the results.

• Prep your ingredients before you cook. Of course, this isn’t a hard-and-fast rule. If you’ve read the recipe through, you might know, for example, that there’s a thirty-minute break between steps 4 and 5. But cooking will go more quickly—and be more fun—if you’re prepared. Would you go to war without a gun?

• Visual cues mean more than temporal ones. Always treat timings as estimates. Your stove may have more BTUs than ours; our flour may be drier than yours; our bread crumbs, moister. There’s no way to account for the variables, so pay close attention to the visual cues—“until soft,” “until slightly thickened,” “until an instant-read meat thermometer registers…”

Thirty-One Examples of Culinary Shorthand

Although recipes in a cookbook are more expansive than those in a magazine, both are written with culinary chestnuts. If you’re a longtime cook, you know the drill. If not, these verbal ticks can sound like a foreign language. Here are the most common.

• 1. Preheat the oven to… A conventional oven takes 10 to 15 minutes to come to a stable temperature. In most cases, start preheating the oven even before you lay out your ingredients.
• 2. Preheat a gas grill or prepare a charcoal grill. Like ovens, grills need time to come to the required temperature—although the actual degree called for in a recipe is less precise: usually “high heat,” but sometimes “medium” or “low heat.” Preheating a gas grill is usually no more than opening a valve and pressing a button (check the manufacturer’s instructions). However, creating heat in a charcoal grill involves building the coal bed, then making sure the temperature’s right. (Again, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.) In general, low heat is 300°F, medium heat is 375°F, and high heat is between 450°F and 500°F. A less scientific approach is to place your open palm 5 inches above the grill grate. The fire is high if you must move your hand in 2 seconds, medium in 4 seconds, and low in 8 seconds.
• 3. Roughly chopped, chopped, cubed, finely chopped, diced, minced. These gradations represent the range for cutting up vegetables, fruits, herbs, and meats. Here are the general parameters.

Roughly chopped: the largest cut with the widest latitude, uneven pieces up to 1 inch wide.

Chopped: slightly smaller, more uniform, ½-inch pieces

Cubed: like “chopped” but more exact—small, ½-inch cubes

Finely chopped: smaller still but less precise, about ¼ inch

Diced: a small cube, about ¼ inch on all sides

Minced: the smallest cuts of all, about ¹/₈ inch. Mince items by rocking your knife back and forth through them, rather than slicing them into tiny pieces.

• 4. Plus additional for greasing the pan. Sometimes, a little extra fat is called for to grease a pan before it goes into the oven. To grease or oil a cool baking pan, place a small amount of butter or oil on a paper towel and run it around the inside surface of the pan, paying special attention to the corners and creases.
• 5. Plus additional for dusting the pan. Sometimes, you need a barrier of flour (as well as fat) between the batter and the heat. To dust a pan with flour, add a couple of teaspoons to the pan, then tilt and tap it so that the flour covers the surfaces, corners, and edges. Tap out the excess flour by standing the pan on one edge and rapping it against the side of the sink so the flour can be washed down the drain.
• 6. Toasted pecans, walnuts, pine nuts, etc. Nuts and seeds lose their sometimes cloying softness and have a more intense flavor if the natural oils and sugars have been caramelized, resulting in a golden brown sheen and a nutty aroma. To toast nuts and seeds, place them in a large skillet over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are light brown and quite aromatic, anywhere from 5 to 8 minutes. Or spread them on a large lipped baking sheet and roast them in a preheated 350°F oven, stirring occasionally, until golden and aromatic, anywhere from 8 to 18 minutes. Peanuts and cashews are often sold “roasted” and so do not need this extra step in the kitchen. Do not use salted nuts or seeds unless the recipe specifically calls for them.
• 7. Cut in with a pastry cutter or a fork until… Solid butter or shortening (that is, not softened or melted) must often be mixed into dry ingredients. To do so, cut the fat into chunks, then work these into the flour in the bowl through the tines of a fork or through a pastry cutter, a half-moon tool with parallel curved, dull blades. Work around the bowl, continually repositioning the fat and flour before you press it through the tines, until the mixture looks like coarse, powdery sand.
• 8. Roll until… Use a heavy rolling pin, not one of Goliath proportions but one that will flatten the dough. Let the pin’s weight flatten and smooth the dough as you roll across it. Often, you roll between sheets of plastic wrap or wax paper; the directions will always tell you which to use. If the pin is touching the dough directly, you may have to dust both with flour.
• 9. Set aside… Only set something in the refrigerator if the recipe specifically asks you to do so. Otherwise, set the bowl or plate aside at room temperature, covering it with plastic wrap if the recipe calls for it.
• 10. In a warm, dry, draft-free place… In other words, set the dough or batter away from any heating or cooling vents, away from the stove, and never on top of the refrigerator. Our kitchen has a certain nook—farthest from the window, several feet away from the oven—that we’ve christened our “warm, dry place.” Investigate and claim your own. A pantry shelf? A back corner of the counter?
• 11. Until doubled in bulk. Yeast must produce carbon dioxide for a dough to rise, but doubling is not an exact science. You’re looking for a dough that has risen a little less than twice its original height in the bowl (the bowl does widen toward the top) and has a gently rounded puff. Another way to tell: if you press your fingers into the dough, the indentation you make will stay put.
• 12. Heat a skillet, saucepan, or pot… Do not heat a pan for a prolonged period of time; you may get the pan so hot that you ignite the oil when it’s poured in. Use common sense: you want the food to come in contact with a hot surface.
• 13. Swirl in the oil. In 99 out of 100 cases, the oil should be added after the pan has heated. Drizzle the oil all over the pan, then pick the pan up and tilt it back and forth to get the best coverage across the cooking surface.
• 14. Cook… To cook is to bring food into contact with heat. Once the food’s in the pan, keep everything as close to the heat as possible; don’t lift the pan off the heating element.
• 15. Until softened, until soft, or until translucent. Less a series of gradations than a set of visual cues, these directions refer to the way certain vegetables—onions, shallots, and celery, in particular—transform as they lose moisture over the heat. In most cases, lower the heat if you notice the vegetables turning brown at their edges before they’ve softened.
• 16. Stir… Use a wooden spoon, a pair of kitchen tongs, or a heat-safe silicone spatula. If you’re working with nonstick cookware, use only utensils approved for that surface.
• 17. With a fork. Whether stirring or fluffing, the point here is to break up clumps or grains so that the texture is coarse but uniform. A spoon will not do the job.
• 18. Whisk… Use a whisk. A good kitchen has at least two, a thin one for working in saucepans and a large, balloon-shaped one for whipping ingredients in bowls.
• 19. Mop… A term for the grill, “to mop” is to slather generously with sauce. Grilling mops, sold in cookware stores, are thick, coarse brushes that hold lots of sauce.
• 20. Stirring once in a while, occasionally, frequently, often, or constantly. These are the various gradations for how much attention you should pay to a mixture over the heat. None is a call to leave a pan unattended. Stir by moving a wooden spoon in arcs across the bottom of the pan, thereby scraping ingredients off the hot surface and exchanging them with those that have not been in direct contact with the heat. In a stew, the point is to keep elements (usually in suspension) from dropping to the bottom and sticking to the hot surface under the simmering liquid.
• 21. Until uniform. In other words, until the various components of the mixture are evenly distributed without, say, a pocket of cinnamon or a streak of salt.
• 22. Until aromatic. Spices and some oils need to be heated so that they’ll release their flavors; cook them until you can smell them. But do remember that chili oils will volatilize and the resulting vapors can burn your eyes. As a precaution, do not lean directly over the pot.
• 23. Until they give off their liquid and it reduces to a glaze. Mushrooms are a tight pack of moisture, held in fibrous chambers that quickly break down over heat. In most cases, the liquid would make a dish watery, so you want the mushrooms to give off most of their liquid (the mixture in the pan will be a little soupy); then you reduce this liquid to a thick glaze to concentrate its flavors before continuing.
• 24. Scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Bits of herbs, protein, or other ingredients get stuck on the pan’s bottom, glued there by natural sugars. These browned bits often carry most of the flavor in a soup, stew, or sauce. Once you’ve added a liquid to a pan, let it come to a simmer, then use a wooden spoon or heat-safe tongs to scrape these caramelized bits off the bottom. The simmering itself should help lift them free, although some are resistant enough to need several seconds to come loose.
• 25. Simmer slowly, simmer, boil, or bring to a full boil. A slow simmer is just a few bubbles at a time; you can count them as they appear. A simmer is slightly faster, but still gentle. A boil is more vigorous: the ingredients roil in the pot. A full boil means that even heavier ingredients are tossed in the swirl. You may be able to stir down a simmer (in other words, constant stirring will cause the liquid to stop simmering); you should not be able to stir down a boil.
• 26. Until lightly browned, golden, or dark brown. Color gradations are caused by sugars caramelizing on the outside of food, but the exact color achieved is a matter of time over the heat—and a matter of personal taste. By and large, the darker the color, the more prominent the taste. However, the line between browned and burned is faint but exacting.
• 27. Coats the back of a wooden spoon. Puddings and custards must be cooked until the flour or cornstarch thickens the liquid. Dip a wooden spoon into the mixture, stir it a couple of times, and lift it out. The back of the spoon should be coated in an opaque film. If you run your finger through the mixture adhering to the back of the spoon, the line you make should have firm borders that do not run or sag.
• 28. Until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into…reaches… An instant-read meat thermometer will give you the temperature in seconds, without its having to be left in the roast for hours. Gently press the thermometer’s probe into the cut as directed in the recipe and wait a few seconds for the temperature to register. Never place an instant-read meat thermometer in the oven. Always wash an instant-read thermometer before a subsequent use.
• 29. Refresh under cool water until room temperature. To keep vegetables crisp, you have to stop the cooking process. When they’re in the colander in the sink, run cool—not cold—water over them, tossing occasionally until they’re no longer hot to the touch.
• 30. Transfer to… Use a utensil large enough to hold the food securely when you pick it up and bring it to a plate, platter, or rack. Small tools mean broken, chipped, or torn food.
• 31. Cool on a wire rack until… A wire rack is essential for cooling foods; otherwise, they’ll sit on a solid surface and turn gummy as they cool. Invest in a large rack, one with feet that lift it up slightly. Also consider buying one with a crosshatch of wires so that smaller foods don’t fall through the slats.

Breakfast and Brunch

WE KNOW A MANHATTAN GALLERY OWNER, SHE OF HIGH-CONCEPT glasses, who has renovated her kitchen almost out of existence. Cupboards and drawers? Gone. There’s only one small shelf and a half-sized refrigerator shoved in a corner. The only other thing? A single burner so she can make herself an omelet every morning. Even she, a fashionista of the highest order, wants to wake up to breakfast.

A morning routine is so satisfying. Perhaps it’s nothing more than a cup of coffee and a piece of toast, but there’s something sacred about the day’s first moments. It’s no wonder that U. S. egg consumption has topped 250 per person a year. No wonder that bakeries have enjoyed a renaissance across the country. And no wonder that while kitchen remodeling remains our nationwide preoccupation, stats show that the number-one meal cooked in these new kitchens is…yes, breakfast.

This chapter starts with the simple breakfasts: smoothies and cereals. Then it turns to more substantial fare, brunch for many of us, but a welcome treat—or a fresh start at 7:00 a.m. There’s a section devoted to eggs—from the simplest scrambled concoctions to make-ahead casseroles. Then come the reasons God made maple syrup: pancakes, French toast, and the like. Finally, there’s a set of easy sides.

Simply put, breakfast’s worth the effort—no matter if you’ve cut your designer life down to a single burner or it’s a weekend morning and you’ve got no plans other than a waffle, the paper, and a cup of coffee.

Breakfast Smoothies

No wonder smoothies have taken over breakfast: they’re fast, flavorful, and nutritious. Unfortunately, like muffins, they have also gotten supersized. So keep the servings within reason and use fat-free yogurt or skim milk.

How to Make a Smoothie

Put the ingredients in a blender in the order listed; blend until smooth. Each recipe makes one smoothie; any can be doubled or tripled, depending on your blender’s capacity. For a brighter taste, add 1/₈ teaspoon salt. For a colder drink, start with an ice cube or two.

Banana Mango Smoothie

1 ripe banana, peeled and broken into pieces

½ cup chopped peeled pitted mango

¼ cup yogurt (regular, plain, or fat-free)

¼ cup orange juice

2 teaspoons honey

¹/₈ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Lemon Berry Smoothie

½ cup sliced fresh strawberries

½ cup lemon sherbet or sorbet

¼ cup fresh or frozen blueberries

¼ cup fresh or frozen raspberries

Banana Melon Smoothie

1 ripe banana, peeled and broken into chunks

¾ cup chopped, peeled, seeded honeydew or cantaloupe

¼ cup yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons frozen orange juice concentrate

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Fruit and Berry Smoothie

4 medium apricots, pitted and halved

4 hulled strawberries, sliced

1 cup yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

¼ cup white grape juice

1 tablespoon wheat germ

Peach Melba Smoothie

1 medium ripe peach, pitted and cut into wedges

½ cup vanilla frozen yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

½ cup fresh or frozen raspberries

1 tablespoon lime juice

1/₈ teaspoon almond extract

Peanut Butter Smoothie

4 to 5 ice cubes

1 ripe banana, peeled and broken into chunks

½ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon creamy peanut butter

2 teaspoons honey

½ teaspoon vanilla

1/₈ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Strawberry Melon Protein Smoothie

6 hulled strawberries, sliced

¾ cup peeled, seeded cantaloupe or honeydew chunks

1/₃ cup pineapple juice

2 tablespoons unflavored protein powder

Chocolate Banana Protein Smoothie

3 ice cubes

1 ripe banana, peeled and broken into chunks

1 cup yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons chocolate syrup

2 tablespoons unflavored protein powder

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Savory Cucumber Smoothie

½ cup peeled, seeded, and chopped cucumber

½ cup blackberries

½ cup apple juice

3 torn basil leaves

Pear Smoothie

1 small ripe pear, peeled, cored, and roughly chopped

1 ripe banana, peeled and broken into chunks

1/₃ cup white cranberry or white grape juice

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1/₈ teaspoon almond extract

Cereals

Although most of us pour it out of a box, homemade cereal is a treat, especially since it’s lacking the preservatives and chemical enhancements often laced into our morning staple.

A road map for The Ultimate Granola

Granola is endlessly variable, bound only by your whims. Here’s a road map to creating your signature version. Makes about 10 cups

Start by positioning the racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and preheating the oven to 350°F.

Spread

6 cups rolled oats (do not use quick-cooking or steel-cut oats)

on a very large baking sheet. Toast in the top third of the oven for 10 minutes. Transfer to a very large bowl. (Maintain the oven’s heat.)

Next, mix one item from each of the following two lists in a small saucepan set over medium heat.

(a) 2/₃ cup of any one of these sweeteners:

Honey

Maple syrup

Unsweetened apple juice concentrate, thawed

Unsweetened white grape juice concentrate, thawed

Sweetened cranberry juice concentrate, thawed

Cane syrup, such as Lyle’s Golden Syrup

Agave nectar

and

(b) 2/₃ cup of any one of these fats:

Walnut oil

Almond oil

Canola oil

Safflower oil

Grapeseed oil

The moment the mixture starts to steam, take the pan off the heat. Stir in

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

and set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

As that mixture cools, stir all of the following into the toasted oats:

½ cup wheat germ

¼ cup packed light brown sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon salt

Also add one item from each of the following two lists to the toasted oats mixture:

(a) ½ cup nuts, seeds, or coconut:

Finely chopped walnut pieces

Finely chopped pecan pieces

Chopped unsalted cashews

Sliced or slivered almonds

Unsalted shelled sunflower seeds

Shredded unsweetened coconut

and

(b) ½ cup fortifier:

Powdered dry milk

Powdered fat-free dry milk

Powdered fat-free dry whey

Finally, stir in the prepared cooked sweetening and oil mixture.

Spray two large baking sheets with nonstick spray or grease them with a little oil dabbed on a paper towel. Divide the oat mixture between the two baking sheets, spreading it to the corners. Place the trays in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and bake for 10 minutes, stirring once.

Reverse the trays top to bottom and back to front, and continue cooking until lightly browned and fragrant, about 10 more minutes, tossing and stirring once or twice.

Place the baking sheets on wire racks. Stir 1 cup of any one of the following or any combination into the mixture on the trays (½ cup into each tray):

Chopped dried apples, chopped dried apricots, chopped dried figs, chopped dried pineapple, chopped dried strawberries, dried blueberries, dried cranberries, dried currants, raisins

Cool to room temperature on the trays without disturbing, about 1½ hours.

To store: Break up and seal in plastic bags or containers; the granola will keep in a dark, dry place at room temperature for up to 2 months.

Why Take Time for Breakfast?

Recent research indicates that people who skip breakfast are more likely to have problems with obesity. On average, those who forgo the morning meal eat an additional 100 calories per day. Worse yet, their insulin levels are out of whack by lunch, leading to higher cholesterol and suggesting a range of problems from diabetes to heart disease. Put simply, if you want to gain weight, skip breakfast.

Muesli

Although not traditionally cooked, this breakfast favorite is made better by toasting rolled oats and nuts, then mixing them with quick-cooking oats and the other ingredients. Serve with yogurt or milk, topped with fresh berries. Makes 9 cups

1 cup rolled oats (do not use quick-cooked or steel-cut)

1 cup sliced almonds

4 cups quick-cooking oats

1 cup wheat germ

½ cup unsalted sunflower seeds

½ cup raisins

½ cup chopped pitted dates

½ cup shredded unsweetened coconut

Position the rack in the center of the oven; preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the rolled oats and almonds on a large, lipped baking sheet; bake until lightly browned, tossing occasionally, about 7 minutes. Cool on a wire rack to room temperature, about 1 hour.

Toss the toasted oats and almonds with the quick-cooking oats, wheat germ, sunflower seeds, raisins, dates, and coconut in a large bowl.

To store: Seal in plastic bags or a large plastic container and keep at room temperature for up to 2 months.

Variations: Substitute chopped walnut pieces or chopped pecan pieces for the almonds.

Substitute dried blueberries, dried cranberries, dried raspberries, or chopped dried strawberries for the raisins.

Substitute chopped dried apples, chopped dried apricots, or chopped dried figs for the dates.

Breakfast Rice Pudding

This rice porridge is like a breakfast risotto. There are two ways to make it: a pressure cooker and a traditional method. Makes 4 servings

4 cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1½ cups Arborio rice

1 cup raisins, chopped

2 tablespoons maple syrup

One 4-inch cinnamon stick

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₈ teaspoon ground cloves

Pressure cooker method:

Place all the ingredients in a pressure cooker, set it over medium-high heat, and bring to a simmer, stirring all the while.

Lock on the lid according to the manufacturer’s instructions; bring the cooker to high pressure. Adjust the heat so that the cooker releases steam at a steady rate (this will be indicated by the pressure valve or another feature listed in the manufacturer’s instructions); cook at high pressure for 7 minutes.

Release the lid using the quick-release method—that is, placing the sealed pressure cooker under cold running water until the locking mechanism releases or until another signal for released pressure happens.

Uncover the cooker and return to medium-high heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until creamy and somewhat thickened but just until the rice still has some tooth left, about 1 minute. Remove the cinnamon stick before serving.

Traditional method:

Bring the milk to a very low simmer in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Reduce the heat so the milk stays this hot but does not boil.

Ladle ¾ cup hot milk into a large saucepan just now set over medium-low heat; stir in the rice, raisins, maple syrup, cinnamon stick, nutmeg, salt, and cloves. Cook, stirring constantly, until the rice’s outer shell turns translucent, about 2 minutes.

Add ¾ cup warm milk and cook, stirring constantly, until it has been absorbed, about 3 more minutes.

Reduce the heat even further so that the rice cooks very slowly; add ¼ cup milk. Cook, stirring constantly, adding more milk in ¼-cup increments only after the pan is almost dry from the last addition, until very creamy and thickened. The total cooking time for this step should be about 30 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick before serving.

Variations: Substitute 1 cup finely chopped dried fruit, such as apricots or pears, for the raisins.

Substitute honey or packed light brown sugar for the maple syrup.

Eggs Every Which Way

Nature’s nutritional miracle, an egg is a tight pack of protein, amino acids, fat, vitamins, and minerals—a pack so tight that many cultures find eggs too big a wallop for breakfast and save them for later in the day. In the United States, we like our protein early and often. The myth about old-timers and eggs may be shopworn (“My grandfather started every day with two fried eggs and…”), but there’s no doubt that eggs have long provided the spark that gets our bodies running.

Scrambled Eggs

It’s easy to make good scrambled eggs. As with most things, simpler is better. Makes 1 serving (see Note)

1 teaspoon unsalted butter, olive oil, or nonstick spray

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free), half-and-half, or heavy cream

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Either heat the butter or olive oil in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat or spray the skillet with nonstick spray and set it over medium heat.

While the skillet heats, crack the eggs into a small bowl. Use a fork to whisk in the milk, half-and-half, or cream until almost uniformly yellow.

Pour the mixture into the skillet, tilting it so that the mixture coats the bottom. Set the pan over the heat, count to ten, then use a heat-safe rubber spatula to lift the fluffy bits off the pan’s bottom, working gently so as not to break up these cloudlike curds.

Tilt the skillet to bring more of the unset egg into contact with the hot surface. Once almost all the unset egg has come into contact with the pan and the moment it has set enough to look like loose pudding, gently scoop the curds onto a serving plate; season with salt and pepper.

Note: You can make two, three, or four servings at one time. Use a larger skillet, but don’t be fooled by the greater quantity of egg mixture: it’s fragile and should be treated gently.

Tips for Success

• Use a seasoned cast-iron or nonstick skillet.

• Lift the curds gently off the skillet’s bottom in long, slow arcs with a heat-safe rubber spatula designed for use on nonstick cookware.

• Take the curds out of the pan the moment they lose their runniness. Eggs can break over prolonged heat (that is, the liquid can fall out of suspension).

Variations: Add any of the following with the milk:

1 small plum tomato, seeded and chopped; ½ ounce purchased lump crabmeat; ½ teaspoon capers, drained and rinsed; ½ teaspoon chile powder; ¼ teaspoon mild or hot paprika; ¼ teaspoon curry powder; ¼ teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled or ½ teaspoon minced oregano leaves; ¼ teaspoon dried thyme or ½ teaspoon stemmed thyme; ¼ teaspoon garam masala; or ¼ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest.

You can also add ¼ ounce cheese, finely shredded or grated, per egg scrambled. (That’s about 1 tablespoon per egg.) Add the cheese late in the process, during the last 10 or 15 seconds, just so it melts without its fat falling out of suspension.

Three Things to Do with Scrambled Eggs

I. Breakfast Burritos

Heat flour tortillas in the microwave on high until warm, about 20 seconds, then lay them on your work surface. Add a single recipe of Scrambled Eggs to each tortilla as well as any of the following combinations before rolling the tortillas up:

• 1. Salsa, grated Monterey Jack, and chopped fresh cilantro
• 2. Warmed refried beans and seeded, cored, thinly sliced bell peppers
• 3. Tapenade and chopped fresh rosemary
• 4. Jelly and crème fraîche or sour cream
• 5. Chopped pitted black or green olives, sliced radishes, and warmed canned black beans
• 6. Guacamole and pickled or fresh sliced jalapeño chiles
• 7. Dijon mustard, sprouts, and some thinly sliced red onion
• 8. Corn kernels, scallions, and chopped parsley
• 9. Thawed frozen peas, chopped mint, and sour cream
• 10. A couple of slices of lox or smoked salmon and some chopped red onion

Salt eggs when they come out of the pan. Salting early can make them rubbery.

II. Scrambled Egg Sandwich

Toast 2 slices of whole wheat, rye, or oat bread, lightly butter them, and place a single recipe of scrambled eggs on one half. Top with tomato slices, lettuce leaves, and/or sliced or shredded Cheddar, queso blanco, Taleggio, Brie, or even blue cheese; close the sandwich.

To dress the sandwich up, add any fruit chutney, homemade or purchased; or any salsa, homemade or purchased. Or forgo the butter and use Tapenade, Hummus, Aïoli, Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto or Dijon mustard.

III. Migas

This Tex-Mex favorite is made by layering tortillas, scrambled eggs, and Chile con Queso on a plate. If you like, serve tortilla chips and some cooked sausage, preferably Mexican chorizo, on the side. Makes 4 servings

4 large corn or flour tortillas, warmed

A quadruple batch of Scrambled Eggs on section Breakfast and Brunch)

Chile con Queso (recipe follows)

½ cup homemade salsa or purchased salsa

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

Lay a warm tortilla on each serving plate. Top with a quarter of the eggs (that is, 2 eggs per person).

Pour ¼ cup Chile con Queso over the eggs, then top with 2 tablespoons salsa and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro. Serve at once.

Chile con Queso

Double or triple this Mexican cheese sauce to make an appetizer dip. Makes a little more than 1 cup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

½ cup diced canned green chiles, drained (hot, medium, or mild)

¼ cup white wine or dry vermouth

6 ounces Cheddar, shredded

3 ounces Monterey Jack, shredded

2 ounces regular or low-fat cream cheese, cubed

About ½ cup (8 tablespoons) heavy cream, at room temperature

1½ teaspoons ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt, or to taste

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper, preferably white pepper

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Melt the butter in a large saucepan set over medium-low heat. The moment the foaming subsides, add the onion and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and chiles; cook for 20 seconds.

Pour in the wine or vermouth and scrape up any bits on the bottom of the pan. Continue cooking until the liquid in the pan has reduced to a glaze.

Add the cheese all at once, stir two or three times, and immediately remove the pan from the heat. Stir until the cheese melts, then begin adding cream in 1-tablespoon increments until a smooth, velvety sauce forms. Stir in the cumin, salt, pepper, and hot red pepper sauce.

Tip for Success

If the queso isn’t hot after the cream has been stirred in, set the pan back over very low heat and stir constantly, just until warmed. Do not allow the mixture to simmer even by one bubble; the fat will fall out of suspension, rendering the sauce unusable.

Eggs, Lox, and Onions

This deli version of scrambled eggs is made milder by adding the lox at the end of cooking, rather than frying it in the fat. Makes 4 servings

6 large eggs

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil

1 large onion, diced

8 ounces lox or thickly sliced smoked salmon, chopped (see Note)

Salt to taste

Whisk the eggs and pepper in a medium bowl until well beaten; set aside.

Melt the butter in a large nonstick skillet set over medium-low heat, tipping the skillet to coat the bottom thoroughly; or heat the skillet over medium-low heat and then swirl in the olive oil. Toss in the onion, reduce the heat to low, and cook slowly, stirring often, until golden and quite soft, about 8 minutes.

Pour in the eggs and wait for 15 seconds. Use a heat-safe rubber spatula to lift the fluffy curds off the pan’s bottom, piling them up without breaking them up. All the while, tip and tilt the skillet to let more of the beaten eggs come into contact with the hot surface.

When the last of the liquid egg comes into direct contact with the hot pan, add the lox, stir once, and remove the pan from the heat. Scrape up the curds a couple more times, just to get the lox heated through and well combined but taking care to keep the fluffy eggs intact. Transfer to a serving plate or individual plates; season with salt, but remember that lox or smoked salmon is quite salty—taste the final dish before salting it.

Note: Spraying your knife with nonstick spray helps keep the salmon from sticking to it.

Eggs, Gravlax, and Onions: For a milder dish, substitute Gravlax for the lox.

Eggs, Smoked Trout, and Onions: Substitute smoked trout for the smoked salmon.

Herbed Eggs, Lox, and Onions: Add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves, 1 tablespoon minced fresh chives, 1 tablespoon stemmed thyme, or 2 teaspoons chili powder with the lox or smoked salmon.

Browned Butter and Eggs

Browning the butter—or turning it into a noisette (nwah-ZET), French for “hazelnut”—imparts to scrambled eggs, fried eggs, and even omelets a nutty, slightly bitter taste preferred by connoisseurs (but not by the elementary-school set). To brown the butter, heat it until the foaming subsides and the liquid just turns golden; you’ll smell a faint, acrid nuttiness. Remove the pan from the heat, cool for 20 seconds, then place the pan back over the heat and continue with the recipe as indicated.

Fried Eggs

Using a metal spatula against a fried egg invites a broken yolk. If you’re going to flip it, do so up the pan’s side with a deft flick. Makes 1 fried egg

1 large egg

1 teaspoon unsalted butter, 1 teaspoon olive oil, or 1 teaspoon walnut oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Crack the egg into a small bowl, custard cup, or ramekin. Doing so will prevent egg shells in the skillet and will help you keep the egg from spreading across the pan.

Melt the butter or heat one of the oils in a small nonstick skillet over medium heat. Swirl the skillet around so that the fat coats the pan’s bottom. Make sure you also coat the pan’s side farthest from the handle (you will use this area to shape the fried egg).

Tip the hot skillet up slightly from the burner at a 10-degree angle. Pour the egg into the side of the skillet closest to the burner, into the shallow well created by the sides and the bottom as the skillet is tipped up. Count to 5, waiting just until the white starts to harden at the edges, then place the skillet back flat on the burner.

Cook until the white has turned opaque, about 25 seconds, then continue with one of these steps.

To make a sunny-side-up fried egg, slide the egg onto a plate and season with salt and pepper.

To make other kinds of fried eggs, gently flip the egg over by quickly but steadily moving the skillet away from you and then back toward you, so that the egg travels up the skillet’s curved side and is caught by its bottom on the way down. Do so with a gentle, even stroke so as to preserve the yolk. (To practice beforehand, put a thin slice of tomato or onion in a cold skillet and flip away.)

For over-easy eggs, cook for 5 seconds, then slide the egg out of the skillet onto a plate by tilting the skillet until the egg slides off. Season with salt and pepper.

For over-hard eggs, continue cooking for about 20 seconds until the yolk feels hard when pressed with your finger. Slide the egg out of the pan and onto a serving plate before seasoning with salt and pepper.

Tips for Success

• Use a nonstick skillet with rounded edges (not straight sides).

• Even though you’re working on a nonstick surface, add a bit of butter or other fat so the egg slides gracefully across the surface.

Poached Eggs

Simmering eggs very slowly renders them smooth, almost velvety. Makes 2 poached eggs (can be doubled or tripled—see Notes)

1 teaspoon vinegar (see Notes)

2 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Fill a medium saucepan about halfway with water, add the vinegar, and set over high heat just until the water comes to a bare simmer—a few spritzes, but not big bubbles. Meanwhile, crack the eggs into small, individual bowls, custard cups, or ramekins.

Slip the eggs into the pan, then reduce the heat so that the water barely dances in the pan, never bubbles or boils.

Cook undisturbed for 1 minute, just until the whites are somewhat set; then gently turn the eggs over with a slotted spoon and continue cooking just until you can see that the white has set, about 1 minute more. (If you prefer harder yolks, cook up to 1 additional minute.) Remove the eggs one at a time with the slotted spoon, holding each over the pan for a second or two to let water drain off before transferring to a serving bowl. Season with salt and pepper.

Notes: If you increase the yield, use a saucepan large enough that the eggs do not touch or overlap. Do not necessarily increase the vinegar. Use the stated amount for up to 3 eggs. If you use a larger pot for 4 or more eggs, use 2 teaspoons vinegar.

Vinegar helps set the egg whites without their becoming feathery. Do not use balsamic or rice vinegar; neither has enough acid to do the job.

Eggs Poached in Red Wine: Use the technique above for poaching eggs, but omit the vinegar and substitute red wine for the water. Also add 1 minced shallot, 2 parsley sprigs, 1 thyme sprig, and 1 bay leaf in the saucepan. Bring the mixture to a low simmer and cook the eggs as directed. Season with salt and pepper after you’ve transferred the eggs to a serving bowl.

Egg Safety

While salmonella in eggs has become a fact of modern life, follow these steps to ensure that the eggs you buy are as safe as they can be:

Keep eggs cool. Get them home from the store quickly. If the day’s warm, put a cooler with a bag of ice in your trunk for the eggs (and other perishables).

Set your refrigerator at 40°F. Store eggs in their carton (which has been designed to minimize carbon dioxide and moisture loss, both of which compromise freshness) on a lower shelf of your refrigerator (not on the door where the temperature swings are the most pronounced, thanks to its opening and closing all day).

Crack an egg on a counter or other flat surface. Although eggs are washed at processing facilities, the shell can have residual contaminants. Cracking an egg on the counter prevents tiny pieces of the shell from being driven up into the white and yolk.

Don’t use the shell to separate eggs. Rather, wash your hands, then crack the egg into one cupped palm, letting the white slip through your fingers while you cradle the yolk. (Admittedly, this takes practice and a strong stomach.) Or buy a plastic or metal egg separator, available at most kitchenware stores.

Serve egg dishes promptly. Bacteria proliferate between 40°F and 140°F.

If you have leftover whites or yolks, freeze them separately for up to 1 year. Place the whites in a plastic container, seal it, and label it so you know when it was put in the freezer. Yolks, because of their high protein structure, coagulate when frozen; to prevent this, whisk ^1/8 teaspoon salt into 4 large egg yolks before freezing. Thaw the whites or yolks overnight in your refrigerator and use at once following these formulas: 2½ tablespoons thawed egg white equals 1 large egg white; 1½ tablespoons thawed egg yolk equals 1 large egg yolk.

Two Streamlined Ways to Use Poached Eggs

I. Eggs Benedict

Hollandaise sauce, ham, eggs? What could be better? Nothing—except streamlining the whole thing so that it takes much less time and can be made any weekend morning. If you have concerns about the undercooked eggs in the Streamlined Hollandaise Sauce, seek out pasteurized eggs in their shells, now available at most supermarkets. Makes 6 servings

4 homemade or purchased English muffins, split open

8 slices Canadian bacon

8 large eggs

Streamlined Hollandaise Sauce (recipe follows)

Toast the English muffin halves and place them on four individual serving plates; set aside.

Heat the Canadian bacon either by putting the slices in a nonstick skillet set over medium heat until sizzling and lightly browned, or by placing them on a large plate, covering them with a paper towel, and microwaving on high until sizzling, about 2 minutes. Place one piece of Canadian bacon on each English muffin half.

Meanwhile, poach the eggs according to the recipe on section Breakfast and Brunch. It may be easier to divide the eggs, using two saucepans and poaching four in each. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the poached eggs to the plates, setting one on top of each piece of Canadian bacon. Pour the Streamlined Hollandaise Sauce over the eggs and serve at once.

Streamlined Hollandaise Sauce

The sauce can easily be doubled for a larger dish—or pour it over steamed asparagus or broccoli as a side dish for dinner. Makes about ½ cup

3 large egg yolks, preferably from pasteurized eggs

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₈ teaspoon cayenne

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

Place the egg yolks, lemon juice, salt, and cayenne in a blender but do not blend. Set aside.

Melt the butter in a small saucepan set over medium-low heat until the butter foams and then begins to subside. The moment it does, turn the blender on low speed and drizzle in the melted butter in the slightest, smallest stream while the blades are running. Once all the butter’s been added, blend until smooth, about 15 seconds.

Cast-Iron Cookware: A Natural Nonstick

Cast-iron cookware is an excellent conductor of heat and a marvel of nonstick efficiency. However, its surface is full of tiny holes and gashes, so it must be “seasoned” before use (that is, those gaps must be filled with fat). To do so, coat the pan in vegetable oil, then place it in a preheated 300°F oven for 1 hour. Cool to room temperature, then repeat twice.

Never clean seasoned cast iron with detergent (which gets lodged in the pores) or steel wool (which rubs off the coating). Instead, pour kosher salt into the skillet and use its graininess and a paper towel to rub off any baked-on bits under warm running water. Afterward, sterilize the surface and prevent rust by heating the skillet to smoking over high heat before cooling it back to room temperature. Store cast-iron cookware uncovered so moisture doesn’t build up during humid weather.

II. Eggs Florentine

For a streamlined version of the classic brunch dish, poached eggs are set on a bed of creamed spinach, topped with a bread crumb mixture, and broiled. Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons plain dried bread crumbs

3 tablespoons finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 teaspoons minced oregano leaves or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon minced rosemary leaves or ½ teaspoon crushed dried rosemary

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 large eggs

Unsalted butter, for greasing the baking dish

Streamlined Florentine Sauce (recipe follows)

Salt to taste

Mix the bread crumbs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, oregano, rosemary, and pepper in a small bowl; set aside.

Poach the eggs according to the recipe for Poached Eggs on section Breakfast and Brunch.

Preheat the broiler. Lightly butter a 9-inch broiler-safe baking dish or casserole; pour the warmed Streamlined Florentine Sauce into it.

Use a slotted spoon to transfer the eggs to the baking dish, placing them on top of the spinach sauce. (Remove the eggs well before the yolks set; they will be broiled and continue to cook.) Sprinkle the prepared bread crumb mixture over the eggs.

Looking for breakfast breads? Check out the muffins, English muffins, quick loaves, and raised sticky buns in the bread chapter.

Broil until the bread crumbs are browned and crisp and the sauce is lightly bubbling at the edges of the dish, about 1 minute. Use a large serving spoon to scoop up the eggs, topping, and sauce, transferring them to individual serving plates. Salt lightly to taste.

Streamlined Florentine Sauce

Makes about ¾ cup

You can also use this simple sauce as a “creamed spinach” side to almost any egg dish—or even as a side to steaks or roast chicken.

One 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed of any excess moisture

½ cup half-and-half or heavy cream

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon salt

Place the spinach, half-and-half or cream, melted butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, lemon zest, and salt in a blender. Cover and blend until smooth, scraping down the sides of the canister as necessary.

Pour into a small saucepan, set over very low heat, and bring to the first bubble, just heated through, stirring occasionally. Cover and set aside to keep warm.

Variation: Substitute frozen, chopped broccoli for the spinach. Open the package and thaw the broccoli in a colander to remove excess moisture.

Want hard-boiled eggs for breakfast? Use the technique for hard-cooking eggs in the Deviled Eggs recipe.

Soft-Boiled Eggs

Soft-boiled eggs cry out for toast: a runny yolk encased by a creamy white. Makes 1 soft-boiled egg

1 large egg

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the egg in its shell in a medium saucepan and cover with cold water to a depth of 1 inch. Place the pan over medium-high heat and bring to a gentle boil.

Cover the pan and set it aside off the heat for 2 minutes for soft centers, 4 minutes for harder ones.

Drain and refresh the egg with lukewarm running water until the shell is warm, not hot.

To serve, crack the small end of the shell with the back of a flatware spoon, peel off the top, and scoop the egg into a bowl; season with salt and pepper and eat at once.

Alternatively, place the egg in an egg cup and use a sharp knife to lop off about ½ inch from the top, season the egg inside with salt and pepper, and use a small spoon to mine the egg from its shell.

Shirred Eggs

Pronounced “sherd eggs,” this British staple requires heat-safe ramekins or custard cups to bake the eggs into a slightly firmer version of poached eggs. Makes 4 shirred eggs

Unsalted butter or nonstick spray, for greasing the ramekins or cups

¼ cup whole milk, half-and-half, or heavy cream (see Note)

2 tablespoons minced chives or the green part of a scallion

2 tablespoons minced parsley leaves

4 large eggs

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 350°F. Lightly butter four 1-cup heatproof custard cups or ramekins or spray them with nonstick spray; set aside.

Warm the milk, half-and-half, or cream in a small saucepan over very low heat until a few puffs of steam come off the surface; do not simmer. Stir in the chives and parsley. Cover and set aside off the heat for 10 minutes.

Place 1 teaspoon cream-and-herb mixture in each custard cup or ramekin; break an egg into each. Divide the remaining cream mixture among the cups (a scant 1 tablespoon in each).

Place the ramekins or cups on a large, lipped baking sheet, spacing them at least 2 inches apart for even heat flow. Bake just until the whites begin to set. At 8 minutes, the whites should be set but the yolks still runny; at 12 to 14 minutes, the yolks should be set, too. Remove from the oven, season with salt and pepper, and let stand for 2 minutes at room temperature before serving. (Be forewarned: the cups or ramekins are still quite hot.)

Note: Direct heat toughens egg whites considerably, so you need a small barrier of fat to protect them in the oven. Do not use low-fat or fat-free milk.

Variations: Substitute oregano, tarragon, marjoram, or thyme for the parsley.

Sprinkle a little homemade salsa, purchased salsa, or Asian chili sauce over the eggs when they come out of the oven.

Prosciutto-Wrapped Shirred Eggs: Cut 4 paper-thin slices of prosciutto in half the short way. Butter or spray the cups or ramekins, then line each with the prosciutto slices, making sure the strips cover the inside surface without any prosciutto sticking out over the top. Place these lined cups or ramekins on a large, lipped baking sheet and bake in the 350°F oven for 10 minutes. Remove, cool for 10 minutes, and continue with the main recipe from step 2. The eggs will cook faster in these prosciutto cups: about 6 minutes for runny-set and 10 minutes for hard-set.

Omelet

A fluffy omelet is a simple pleasure, provided you have a nonstick skillet. Makes 1 omelet

1 teaspoon unsalted butter or olive oil

3 large eggs, lightly whisked in a small bowl until almost uniform

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Melt the butter in a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat; or heat a medium nonstick skillet over medium heat, then swirl in the olive oil. Make sure the fat coats the skillet’s bottom.

Pour in the eggs and immediately tip the pan so that they evenly coat it. Wait for 10 seconds, then use a heat-safe rubber spatula to push the done eggs, the parts nearest the pan’s rim, toward the center, tilting the pan to let more of the liquid egg come into contact with the hot surface. Keep doing this for about 1 minute, continually loosening the cooked egg from the pan’s surface. Do not mound the curds as you would for scrambled eggs; keep the omelet flat in the skillet by continually pouring more of the liquid egg to the edges and pushing the cooked parts back from the edges, like crumpling up a tablecloth back from a table’s edge.

Once the omelet is almost set, tilt the pan up by the handle; loosen the “highest” part of the omelet from the edge. Continue lifting the pan up and use the heat-safe spatula to guide the flat omelet as it falls down over itself, the flap you created from the upper edge rolling down as you raise the pan higher and loosen more of the omelet.

Place the pan over the serving plate and tip it all the way up so the handle is straight up over the plate. Gently turn the omelet out onto the plate, letting the last bit flop over the top of the omelet on the plate. Season with salt and pepper.

Three Ways to Gussy Up Omelets

I. Herbed Omelets

Sprinkle any of the following or any combination of the following over the omelet just as it’s set, just before you start to roll it out of the pan: 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves, 1 to 2 tablespoons minced chives or the minced green part of a scallion, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano leaves, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, 2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary, 1 to 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme, or ¼ teaspoon garlic powder.

II. Filled Omelets

Add any of the following in a line down the middle of the omelet once it’s almost set, before you start rolling it out of the skillet: 1 ounce grated cheese, ¼ cup jam or jelly; ¼ cup Ragù, Marinara Sauce, or purchased pasta sauce; ¼ cup purchased cooked lump crabmeat; 2 tablespoons Blackberry-Rhubarb Chutney or purchased chutney; 2 to 3 tablespoons Sage Pesto, Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto, or purchased pesto; 6 cooked medium cocktail shrimp and Classic Cocktail Sauce; 3 strips fried bacon, crumbled; 3 cooked asparagus spears; 2 shallots, softened in a small skillet with 1 teaspoon olive oil or unsalted butter over medium heat; 1 or 2 jarred whole roasted red peppers or pimientos.

III. Sauced Omelets

Top an omelet on the serving plate with any of the following: Streamlined Hollandaise Sauce; Streamlined Florentine Sauce; Salsa, either homemade or purchased; or Salsa Cruda.

Frittata

A frittata is like a flat omelet cut into wedges for serving. It’s easier to make since you just bake the whole thing in the oven. Makes 4 servings

6 large eggs

¼ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free) or half-and-half

One of the five fillings (recipes follow), made in an oven-safe skillet

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Whisk the eggs and milk or half-and-half in a medium bowl until smooth; set aside.

Prepare one of the fillings below.

The moment the filling has been made, pour the eggs over that filling in the hot skillet, place it in the oven, and bake until the top is no longer runny and the eggs are puffed, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper before serving.

Bacon, Potato, and Chive Filling

2 medium yellow potatoes, such as Yukon golds, peeled and cut into ½-inch chunks

6 ounces thick-cut bacon

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped chives or the green part of a scallion

Place the potatoes in a medium saucepan, cover with cool water to the depth of 1 inch, set the pan over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about 8 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink.

Fry the bacon in a 10-inch, oven-safe skillet set over medium heat until crisp, turning occasionally, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate and drain off all but 1 tablespoon of the fat in the pan.

Return the skillet to medium heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 3 minutes.

Add the potatoes and chives, stir well, then crumble in the bacon. Continue with step 3 of the main recipe to bake the frittata.

Crab and Scallion Filling

1 tablespoon olive oil

6 medium scallions, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

8 ounces purchased cooked lump crabmeat, picked over for shell and cartilage

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated

Heat a 10-inch, oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the scallions and bell pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft and aromatic, about 3 minutes.

Sprinkle the crab and cheese evenly into the pan. Continue with step 3 of the main recipe above to bake the frittata.

Southwestern Filling

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced into rings

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

8 ounces smoked deli ham, chopped

½ cup frozen corn kernels, thawed

1 garlic clove, minced

8 cherry tomatoes, quartered

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Heat a 10-inch, oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the canola oil, then add the shallot and bell pepper. Cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the ham, corn, and garlic; cook for 30 seconds.

Add the tomatoes and cook until softened, about 1 minute. Stir in the parsley and hot red pepper sauce; flatten the filling out across the skillet’s entire surface. Continue with step 3 of the main recipe to bake the frittata.

Spinach Filling

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 garlic cloves, minced

One 10-ounce package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed of all moisture

2 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, or Asiago, grated

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Heat a 10-inch, oven-safe skillet over medium heat, then swirl in the olive oil and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds.

Add the spinach, stir well, then sprinkle the cheese and nutmeg over the dish. Flatten the filling out to cover the skillet. Continue with step 3 of the main recipe to bake the frittata.

Pea and Mint Filling

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 medium shallots, thinly sliced into rings

1½ cups frozen peas

1 tablespoon chopped mint leaves

½ cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

Heat a 10-inch, oven-safe skillet over medium heat, then melt the butter, add the shallots, and cook until softened, stirring often, about 2 minutes. Stir in the peas and mint; cook for 15 seconds. Continue with step 3 of the main recipe to bake the frittata.

When the frittata comes out the oven, cool for a few minutes, then dot the top with sour cream before serving.

Cheese Topping for a Frittata

Once the frittata is set, remove it from the oven and preheat the broiler. Sprinkle 2 to 3 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, Jarlsberg, Emmentaler, Gruyère, Gouda, Edam, or Asiago over the top of the dish. Place under the broiler, about 4 inches from the heat source, and cook until the cheese melts and browns lightly, about 2 minutes. (If your skillet has a wooden handle, wrap it in aluminum foil to protect it.)

Baked Huevos Rancheros

Most versions of this Tex-Mex classic use either raw, overpowering salsa poured over poached eggs or a thick tomato sauce, reminiscent of pasta sauce. We prefer to poach the eggs right in the sauce. Have plenty of warm tortillas on the side. Makes 6 servings

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 medium onion, diced

2 small tomatillos, diced, or ¼ cup canned diced tomatillos

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 fresh jalapeño chile, seeded and minced

6 plum or Roma tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon dried oregano

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 large eggs

1 ounce Cheddar, preferably a hard, aged Cheddar, finely grated

Position the rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Heat a large oven-safe skillet over medium heat, then swirl in the canola oil. Add the onion and tomatillos; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and jalapeño; cook for 15 seconds.

Pour the tomatoes into the pan, stir well, and bring the mixture to a simmer. Stir in the cumin, oregano, salt, and pepper. Cook, uncovered, until the tomatoes break down and start to form a sauce, stirring occasionally, about 7 minutes.

Remove the skillet from the heat. Make six shallow indentations in the salsa, just little nests that will hold the eggs. Crack the eggs into cups or ramekins and slide the eggs from these onto the top of the cooked salsa, placing them in the indentations. Once the eggs are in the pan, gently spoon a little of the sauce (perhaps 2 teaspoons) over each egg, then sprinkle the grated cheese over them and the sauce.

Bake until the eggs are set, about 10 minutes. To serve, spoon the eggs and some of the cooked salsa onto individual plates.

Variations: Substitute 1 small green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and chopped, for the tomatillos.

Substitute 1 chile in adobo, minced; 1 poblano chile, seeded and minced; or one 3-ounce can mild chopped green chiles for the fresh jalapeño.

Cheese Fondue Egg Casserole

Here’s the ultimate take on a big-crowd, holiday-favorite breakfast. You must make it the night before so that it can set up in the refrigerator before it bakes. Makes 6 servings (see Note)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the baking dish

1 medium onion, finely chopped

12 ounces white button mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces Gruyère, finely grated

6 ounces Emmentaler or Jarlsberg, finely grated

One 12-inch loaf day-old French or Italian bread, cut into ½-inch slices

¼ cup dry white wine

8 large eggs

¾ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free) or half-and-half

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion; sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they give off their liquid and it evaporates to a glaze, about 5 minutes.

Stir in the thyme, allspice, salt, and pepper. Set the pan off the heat to cool for 10 minutes.

Lightly butter a 10-inch round or a 9-inch square baking dish. Mix both cheeses in a medium bowl.

Place half the bread in the baking dish, cutting the slices to cover the pan’s surface completely. Brush with 2 tablespoons wine. Top with half the mushroom mixture, then half the cheese mixture.

Lay the second layer of bread slices as before over all this, brush these slices with the remaining wine, then top them with the remaining mushroom mixture. Sprinkle the remaining cheese over the dish.

Whisk the eggs and milk or half-and-half in a medium bowl until smooth. Pour this mixture over the casserole. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Bake the casserole uncovered until puffed and brown, about 40 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes before serving.

Note: You can double this recipe; if you do, use an 11 × 17-inch baking dish.

Sausage and Cheese Fondue Casserole: Cook ½ pound crumbled sausage meat or sausage-style textured soy protein in the pan with the mushrooms.

Seafood and Cheese Fondue Casserole: Add 6 ounces small “salad” shrimp to the pan with the mushrooms during the last minute of cooking. Once you take the pan off the heat, stir in 4 ounces crabmeat, picked over for shell and cartilage.

Prosciutto and Cheese Fondue Casserole: Layer 2 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto in the casserole just before you add the second layer of bread slices. Omit the salt.

Spinach and Cheese Fondue Casserole: Thaw a 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach and then squeeze it dry of all excess water. Layer this spinach in the casserole before you add the second layer of bread slices.

Know Your Egg Anatomy!

Shell. A calcium carbonate casing. The color, variable with chicken breeds, indicates nothing about nutritive value.

Albumen. The layers of translucent material that surround the yolk; the major sources of protein and riboflavin. In fresh eggs, a thick layer mounds up around the yolk.

Yolk. The yellow center, one of the few natural sources for Vitamin D, outside of sunlight. In a fresh egg, it’s high and perky. The color may change based on a chicken’s diet, but these variations do not necessarily indicate a nutritive change.

Chalazae. The edible, ropey strands that anchor the yolk in the shell. Since they dissolve over time, their absence reflects poorly on the egg’s freshness.

Blood Spot. A red mark on the yolk, caused by a rupture of blood vessels in the hen as the egg forms. It is not the embryonic beginnings of a chicken.

Mushroom Cheddar Quiche on a Potato Crust

Instead of standard pastry, grated potatoes make a crunchy crust for this creamy quiche. Use only Russets: they have the right amount of starch for a stable crust. Makes 6 servings

2 large Russet potatoes, peeled

1 small onion

5 large eggs, at room temperature

½ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus additional for greasing the baking dish

12 ounces white button or cremini mushrooms, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

1½ cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

8 ounces Cheddar, grated

Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Lightly butter a 9-inch pie plate and set it aside.

Grate the potatoes through the medium holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Once they’re grated, pick them up by the handfuls and squeeze out any excess moisture over the sink.

Grate the onion into the potatoes, again using the small holes of the box grater. Stir in 1 egg and the salt. Press this mixture into the prepared pie plate.

Bake until lightly browned, about 35 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes. (The crust can be made in advance; once cooled to room temperature, cover it with plastic wrap and store it at room temperature for up to 1 day.)

Reduce the oven temperature to 375°F. Melt the butter in a large skillet set over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, until they give off their liquid and it reduces to a glaze, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle the nutmeg over the mushrooms and set aside.

Whisk the remaining 4 eggs, milk, mustard, and pepper in a medium bowl until fairly smooth.

Sprinkle half the grated cheese over the potato crust. Pour the contents of the skillet over the cheese, then top with the remaining cheese. Pour the prepared egg mixture over the cheese, evenly coating it.

Bake until browned and puffed, about 35 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes before serving.

For a quicker quiche, use a basic piecrust. Follow the instructions on section Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Desserts for making the crust and on section Pies, Tarts, and Fruit Desserts for prebaking it. Follow this recipe from step 5.

Or use a store-bought pie crust, following the instructions on the package for prebaking it.

Spinach Cheddar Quiche in a Potato Crust: Omit the mushrooms. Sauté one 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach and 2 garlic cloves, minced, in the butter until hot and aromatic, about 2 minutes.

Scallop Cheddar Quiche in a Potato Crust: Omit the butter, mushrooms, and nutmeg. Slice 8 ounces large scallops in half so each becomes two disks. Lay these over the first layer of grated cheese.

The Real Reasons for Maple Syrup

If it doesn’t involve eggs, breakfast should be an excuse for maple syrup. None of these dishes is dusted with confectioners’ sugar or garnished with fruit. Why waste calories?

A road map for Five Kinds of Pancakes

There’s only one trick to perfect pancakes: never let the batter sit around. Of course, you can save time by mixing the dry and wet separately the night before; keep the dry on the counter and store the wet, covered, in the refrigerator. Makes about eighteen 4-inch pancakes

Start with two large bowls, one for the wet ingredients and one for the dry. Whisk each together separately.

1. Traditional Pancakes

Wet Ingredients

3 large eggs

2¼ cups milk

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Dry Ingredients

3 cups all-purpose flour

5 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

2. Buttermilk Pancakes

Wet Ingredients

3 large eggs

2 cups buttermilk

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Dry Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour

¼ cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

3. Buckwheat Pancakes

Wet Ingredients

4 large eggs

2¾ cups milk

6 tablespoons honey

¼ cup canola oil

Dry Ingredients

2¾ cups buckwheat flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

4. Gingerbread Pancakes

Wet Ingredients

2 large eggs

1¼ cups milk

1 cup sour cream

¼ cup molasses

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Dry Ingredients

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

5. Multigrain Pancakes

Wet Ingredients

2 large eggs

2 cups milk

3 tablespoons walnut oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Dry Ingredients

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

1/₃ cup sugar

¼ cup wheat germ

1 tablespoon baking powder

½ teaspoon salt

Rub a large skillet or flat griddle, preferably nonstick, with a paper towel moistened with a little canola or vegetable oil and set it over medium heat; or spray it with nonstick spray and set it over medium heat; or melt 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in the pan over medium heat, tilting it to coat the bottom thoroughly (see Note).

Mix the wet ingredients into the dry with a fork, just until the lumps are gone—the batter should still be a little grainy with some undissolved flour.

Scoop up ¼ cup batter and pour it into a neat circle in the pan. Add more ¼-cup circles, as many as can fit without crowding. Cook just until permanent bubbles dot the surface of the cakes, about 2 minutes; then flip with a nonstick-safe spatula and continue cooking until lightly browned, about 1 more minute. You can transfer the cooked pancakes to a heat-safe platter and keep them warm in a 225°F oven while you make more (but for no more than 10 minutes).

Note: You may need to regrease the skillet or griddle between batches.

Blueberry Pancakes: You’ll need a little less than 1 pint of fresh berries in total. Once the batter is scooped into the skillet or griddle, dot each cake with 6 to 9 fresh blueberries. Cook as directed. (Frozen berries are too wet and mushy; they will turn the pancakes blue.)

Nutty Pancakes: Coarsely chop about 1 cup walnut pieces, pecan pieces, or skinned hazelnuts. Stir these into the dry ingredients before you mix in the wet ingredients.

Banana Nut Pancakes: Before mixing the wet into the dry, chop 1 peeled ripe banana and stir it into the wet ingredients. Also, stir about ¾ cup chopped walnut or pecan pieces into the dry ingredients.

Maple Syrup

Although maple syrup may call up images of autumn in New England, maple trees are actually tapped when the sap first runs, while there’s still snow on the ground. Early in the season, it takes about 20 gallons of sap to make a gallon of syrup. As the season goes on and the sap gets diluted (more ground water, spring rains), it can take more than 50 gallons to make a gallon of syrup.

Maple syrup is sold by grades, marked on the bottle. In Vermont, the largest U. S. producer, it’s divided into five grades: Grade A fancy light amber, Grade A medium amber, Grade A dark amber, Grade B (only for baking), and Grade C (almost like molasses and sold to commercial manufacturers). Although light amber is prized for its delicacy, we prefer medium amber, slightly stronger and more herbaceous.

Canadian syrup—85 percent of the global supply—is graded like Vermont’s with Grade 1 divided into three subsets, followed by Grades 2 and 3. Most other U. S. states grade with fewer categories, but those marked Grade A or AA are always preferred. Breakfast demands the best. Why else would anyone get out of bed?

Apple Upside-Down Skillet Pancake

Use a cast-iron skillet or a high-sided sauté pan to hold this large, puffed pancake as it rises. Makes 4 servings

2 large eggs plus 2 large egg yolks

½ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus 1 additional tablespoon unsalted butter

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon flour

3 tablespoons sugar

½ teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon salt

4 tart apples, such as Rome or Granny Smith, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Maple syrup for garnish

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Whisk the eggs and egg yolks, milk, melted butter, and vanilla in a medium bowl. In a large bowl, stir the flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt until uniform. Set both bowls aside until step 4.

Melt the remaining 1 tablespoon butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or high-sided sauté pan set over medium heat. Add the apples and cook just until they begin to soften, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the cinnamon; reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking until the sugar melts, forms a sticky sauce, and starts to caramelize, about 5 minutes.

Use a fork to stir the egg mixture into the flour mixture—there should be no flour visible, but the batter may still be grainy with undissolved flour. Pour over the apples, then place the skillet or sauté pan in the oven and bake until puffed and brown, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes before cutting into quarters and passing the syrup on the side.

Variations: Add ½ teaspoon rum extract or maple extract with the vanilla.

Add 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest with the salt.

Add ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg or ground mace with the cinnamon.

Pear Upside-Down Pancake: Substitute 3 ripe pears, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced, for the apples.

Apple Matzo Brei Pancake

At Passover, kosher families cannot have leavened bread in the house and so use matzo, an unleavened bread, sort of like a cracker. Here, it’s mixed with apples and eggs for a single skillet-sized pancake. Makes 4 servings

Four 6¼-inch × 6¼-inch squares matzo

2 cups boiling water

1 large apple, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

3 large eggs

½ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon canola oil or unsalted butter

Maple syrup for garnish

Crumble the matzos into a large bowl, pour in the boiling water, and soak for 1 minute. Drain by holding a small plate over the bowl and tipping the bowl up to pour off the water. Stir in the apple slices. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk the eggs, milk, sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a medium bowl.

Stir the egg mixture into the matzo mixture with a wooden spoon.

Heat a 10-inch skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat and swirl in the canola oil; or melt the butter in the skillet over medium heat, tilting the pan to make sure the bottom is thoroughly coated with the butter. Add the batter, spreading it evenly to form a cake that takes up the whole skillet. Cook for 1 minute, shaking the skillet repeatedly to keep the matzo from sticking. Cover and cook for 4 minutes.

Uncover, place a large plate over the skillet, then pick up the skillet and invert the whole thing, so that the matzo pancake flips onto the plate. Return the skillet to the heat and slide the matzo pancake back into the pan, uncooked side down. Cook until set and slightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. To serve, cut into quarters and pass the syrup on the side.

Malt Waffles

These are the best of all worlds: crunch from cornmeal, flavor from malted milk powder. Makes about six 8-inch waffles

Canola oil, vegetable oil, or nonstick spray, for greasing the waffle iron

2 large eggs

1¼ cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1½ cups plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/₃ cup yellow cornmeal

3 tablespoons sugar

3 tablespoons malted milk powder

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

Lightly oil or spray a waffle iron, then preheat it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Whisk the eggs, milk, melted butter, and vanilla in a medium bowl until smooth; set aside.

In a large bowl, whisk the flour, cornmeal, sugar, malted milk powder, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl until the cornmeal is even throughout the mixture.

Use a fork to stir the wet ingredients into the dry, just until any lumps disappear and the batter is fairly smooth.

Spoon about ½ cup waffle batter into the preheated iron, or as much batter as is indicated by the manufacturer’s instructions. Close the iron and bake until lightly browned or crispy, depending on your taste (again, check the manufacturer’s instructions for exact timing and any indicator lights or sounds). You can place the baked waffles on a large baking sheet and keep them warm in a preheated 225°F oven for up to 10 minutes.

Buttermilk Malt Waffles: Substitute buttermilk for the milk; omit the baking powder and use 2 teaspoons baking soda instead.

Spiced Malt Waffles: Stir in 1½ teaspoons ground ginger, 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, and/or ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg with the salt.

Three Flavored Syrups

For the best taste, never boil the syrup—it has been boiled in production—but serve it warm. Choose a medium or dark amber.

I. Vanilla Cinnamon Maple Syrup

Makes about 2 cups

2 cups maple syrup

One 4-inch cinnamon stick

1 vanilla bean

Place the syrup and cinnamon stick in a small saucepan set over very low heat. Split open the vanilla bean and toss it into the syrup.

Heat slowly, just until a couple of tiny bubbles fizz around the pan’s inner rim and a puff or two of smoke rises from the surface. Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and set aside for 30 minutes. Remove the cinnamon stick and vanilla bean before serving.

To store: Transfer to a glass or plastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks; reheat in a small saucepan or in the microwave before serving.

II. Blueberry Maple Syrup

Makes about 3 cups

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 cup fresh blueberries

2 cups maple syrup

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan set over medium-low heat. Add the blueberries; cook, stirring occasionally, just until they start to break down, about 2 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the maple syrup until the simmering stops. Cover and set aside off the heat for 20 minutes before serving.

To store: Transfer to a glass or plastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days; reheat in a small saucepan or in the microwave before serving.

III. Walnut Butter Rum Maple Syrup

Makes a little over 3 cups

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup chopped walnut pieces

2 cups maple syrup

2 tablespoons dark rum, such as Myers’s

Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat; add the walnut pieces. Cook, stirring often, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes.

Stir in the maple syrup and remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the rum, cover, and set aside off the heat for 15 minutes before serving.

To store: Place in a glass or plastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks; rewarm in a saucepan or in the microwave before serving.

Whole Wheat Banana Waffles

Whole wheat waffles can get heavy, but these are lightened up with mashed bananas. Makes eight 8-inch waffles

Canola oil, vegetable oil, or nonstick spray, for greasing the waffle iron

2 large eggs

2 ripe bananas, finely diced

1 cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons canola oil

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup whole wheat flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

Lightly oil or spray a waffle iron, then preheat it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Whisk the eggs, bananas, milk, oil, and vanilla in a medium bowl until the eggs are lightly beaten; set aside.

Stir both flours, the sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl. Use a fork to stir in the egg mixture just until a slightly grainy but thick batter forms (see Note).

Place about ½ cup batter in the heated waffle iron or as much batter as is indicated by the manufacturer’s instructions. Close the iron and cook as directed until browned. You can place the cooked waffles on a large baking sheet in a preheated 225°F oven to keep warm until you’ve made all of them.

Note: Alternatively, place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse several times to blend, then scrape down the sides of the bowl and process until fairly smooth. This method will give you a smoother batter, without any banana “lumps” in it.

Honey Wheat Waffles: Reduce the sugar to 1 tablespoon; whisk 2 tablespoons honey into the wet ingredients with the eggs.

Whole Wheat Peach Waffles: Omit the bananas and use 2 ripe medium peaches, peeled, pitted, and finely diced. (Do not use the food processor method to make the batter.)

Whole Wheat Banana Nut Waffles: Stir ½ cup chopped toasted pecan or walnut pieces into the dry ingredients with the flour. (Do not use the food processor method to make the batter.)

Oat Waffles

Soaking the oats in advance makes exceptionally creamy waffles. Makes six 8-inch waffles

1½ cups all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

¾ cup regular or low-fat buttermilk (do not use fat-free)

½ cup rolled oats (do not use quick-cooking or steel-cut)

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

¾ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

¼ cup canola oil, plus additional for greasing the waffle iron

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Whisk the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt together in a large bowl; set aside.

Whisk the buttermilk and oats in a medium bowl and set aside for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly oil or spray a waffle iron, then preheat it according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Whisk the eggs, milk, canola oil, and vanilla into the buttermilk mixture. Then stir this mixture into the flour mixture with a fork.

Spoon ¼ cup batter into the iron, or as much batter as recommended by the manufacturer. Close the iron and bake until crispy, perhaps 2 minutes. To keep warm, place on a large baking sheet in a preheated 225°F oven while you make more waffles.

For lighter waffles, separate the yolks from the egg whites. Add the yolks where you would have added the whole eggs; beat the egg whites to stiff peaks with an electric mixer at high speed in a separate bowl, then fold them into the batter after the flour mixture.

Baked French Toast

French toast started out as a baked dessert, a way to turn day-old bread into bread pudding. So here’s an old technique for a breakfast favorite: a make-ahead baked casserole—best with maple syrup, of course. Makes about 8 servings

Unsalted butter, for greasing the pan

One 8-ounce plain Italian bread, challah, or brioche, preferably day-old, cut into 1-inch slices

6 large eggs

2½ cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

Lightly butter a 13 × 9-inch baking pan. Lay the bread slices in the pan, fitting them in fairly snugly without any overlap. If there are some gaps, the bread will eventually expand to fill them.

Whisk the eggs, milk, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl until fairly smooth; pour over the bread in the pan. Cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Set the casserole out on the counter for 10 minutes to bring it back to room temperature.

Bake, uncovered, until puffed and brown, about 45 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes on a wire rack before serving.

Variations: Wedge ¼ cup dried raisins, cranberries, currants, blueberries, or chopped dried apples among the bread slices, taking care to distribute them evenly in the pan.

Reduce the milk to 2¼ cups; add ¼ cup gold rum with the remaining milk.

Add ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg with the cinnamon.

Baked Blintzes

We prefer these stuffed crepes baked because the filling has more time to melt and meld. We also like them with maple syrup on the side, an utterly untraditional approach. Makes 18 blintzes

4 large eggs

2 cups milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, plus additional for greasing the skillet and the baking dish

1 teaspoon salt

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1 cup regular or low-fat ricotta (do not use fat-free)

8 ounces regular or low-fat cream cheese (do not use fat-free), softened to room temperature

3 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 large egg yolks, at room temperature

Maple syrup for garnish

First, to make the crepes, place the whole eggs, milk, 2 tablespoons melted butter, and the salt in a large blender or in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; cover and blend or process until smooth. Add the flour; cover again and blend or process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl or canister once or twice to make sure all the flour is incorporated. Alternatively, make this batter in a large bowl with a whisk; once you’ve whisked together the egg mixture, whisk in the flour in small increments, just 1 or 2 tablespoons at a time, to create the smoothest, airiest batter.

Place a dab of butter on a paper towel or piece of wax paper and use it to grease a 10-inch skillet, preferably nonstick. Set the skillet over medium-low heat for 1 minute. Pour 3 tablespoons of the batter into the skillet; tilt and tip the skillet until the batter completely coats the bottom. Cook until lightly mottled, about 30 seconds. Peel up the crepe, preferably with nonstick-safe tongs, and flip it. Cook about 30 more seconds, just until blond and set. Remove the crepe to a plate and continue making more, greasing the skillet after every two or three and stacking the crepes on the plate as they come out of the skillet.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter a 13 × 9-inch baking dish.

Use a fork to mix the ricotta, cream cheese, sugar, vanilla, and the egg yolks in a medium bowl until smooth.

Place one of the crepes on your work surface; spoon 2 tablespoons of the cheese filling in a long log shape in the middle of the crepe. Fold the crepe over the ends of the log, then roll it up. Place it seam side down in the prepared baking dish and continue filling more crepes.

Once they’re all filled and in the pan, brush them generously with some of the remaining melted butter. Bake until lightly browned, about 20 minutes, brushing every 5 minutes or so with more of the remaining melted butter. Cool on a wire rack for 5 minutes before serving with maple syrup on the side.

Five Breakfast Sides

No wimpy sides! Some of these are substantial enough to stand on their own. All are fit for celebration mornings.

Hash Browns

The best hash browns are made with Yukon gold potatoes, a yellow-fleshed varietal with a great balance of starch and moisture. Our version is actually a take on röesti, a classic Swiss dish of buttery fried potatoes. Makes 6 servings

3 large Yukon gold potatoes (about 1¼ pounds), peeled

1 small onion

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly grated black pepper

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

Grate the potatoes and onion through the large holes of a box grater or with a food processor fitted with the grating attachment. Stir in the salt and pepper.

Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a 12-inch skillet, preferably nonstick, set over medium heat. The moment the foam starts to subside, add the potato mixture, pressing down with the back of a wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Cook undisturbed until the bottom begins to brown, about 6 minutes.

Place a large plate over the skillet, then invert the skillet and plate together, so that the potato pancake falls onto the plate. Return the skillet to the heat, add 2 more tablespoons butter, and slip the potato pancake back into the skillet, “raw” side down. Cook undisturbed for another 4 minutes.

Break up the potato cake with a wooden spoon into chunks. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and continue cooking, stirring often, until crispy outside and tender inside the potato chunks, about 5 more minutes.

Variations: Substitute olive oil or walnut oil for the butter. (Do not use toasted walnut oil.)

Stir any of the following into the potato mixture with the salt and pepper:

1 tablespoon chopped rosemary leaves or 2 teaspoons crumbled dried rosemary, 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves or 2 teaspoons dried tarragon, 2 teaspoons curry powder, 2 teaspoons minced sage leaves or 1 teaspoon rubbed sage, or 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme.

Sweet Potato Hash

This hash is made with a combination of red-skinned potatoes and sweet potatoes—both of which have been cut into small, even cubes. Have your butcher slice the Canadian bacon thicker than the usual packaged variety, about ½ inch thick. Sweet potatoes break down easily, so stir the hash just enough to keep it from sticking. Makes 6 main-course or 10 side servings

¾ pound red-skinned potatoes (about 2 large), scrubbed and cut into ½-inch pieces

¾ pound sweet potato (about 1 medium), peeled and cut into ½-inch pieces

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

1 large onion, diced

1 large green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound Canadian bacon, cut into ½-inch cubes

2/₃ cup chicken or vegetable broth

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

¼ pound fresh spinach leaves, stemmed and coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Place the potatoes in a pot, cover with cool water to a depth of 1 inch, set over high heat, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink.

Melt the butter in a very large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-low heat. Add the onion and bell pepper; cook until soft, about 4 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic and cook for 15 seconds.

Add the Canadian bacon and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add about ½ cup of the broth, the partially cooked potatoes, and the vegetable oil. Reduce the heat to very low and cook, stirring frequently but gently, until the broth has been absorbed and the potatoes are starting to get tender and a little crispy, 10 to 12 minutes.

Stir in the remaining broth, the spinach, and vinegar. Cook until the spinach wilts, about 2 minutes; season with pepper as desired. (The hash can be made in advance: cool to room temperature, place in a baking dish, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days; reheat, covered, in a preheated 350°F oven for 10 minutes.)

Corned Beef Hash: Omit the Canadian bacon and spinach. Add ½ pound cooked corned beef, cut into ½ cubes, with the vinegar.

Brie Grits

The sweetest, creamiest cheese grits are made with soft, ripe cheese. Makes 6 servings

2 cups vegetable broth

2 cups water

¼ cup milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

¼ cup dry white wine or dry vermouth

1 cup quick-cooking grits

4 ounces Brie, rind removed, cut into ½-inch chunks (see Note)

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Combine the broth, water, milk, and wine or vermouth in a medium saucepan and bring it to a simmer over medium-high heat.

Slowly whisk in the grits, reduce the heat to very low, cover, and cook at the lowest simmer until thickened, until most of the liquid has been absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the cheese just until it melts. Stir in the nutmeg, cover, and set aside for 5 minutes before serving.

Note: To make the cheese easier to cut, place it in the freezer for about 20 minutes.

Variations: Substitute any soft goat cheese, such as Montrachet, for the Brie.

For a stronger taste, substitute Taleggio or even Camembert for the Brie.

Substitute coarsely grated Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano for the Brie.

Stir in 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary with the cheese.

Creamy Cantaloupe and Mint Salad

With some yogurt and honey, a fresh melon salad makes a fine breakfast side. You can’t make this easy side in advance because the yogurt and salt will cause the melon to weep too much. Always smell cantaloupes when buying to make sure they’re sweet. Makes 6 servings

1 cup yogurt (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 teaspoon ginger juice

¼ teaspoon salt

Two 3-pound cantaloupes, cut in half and seeded—then cut into wedges, peeled, and cut into 1-inch cubes; or scooped into 1-inch balls with a melon baller

2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves

Whisk the yogurt, honey, vanilla, ginger juice, and salt in a small bowl.

Place the melon chunks and mint in a bowl. Pour the dressing over the top and toss gently.

Variations: Substitute lemon juice for the ginger juice.

Add 1 tablespoon poppy seeds with the yogurt.

Omit the ginger juice and mint; stir in 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon with the vanilla.

Substitute honeydew for the cantaloupe—or use a combination of the two.

Substitute 1 quart strawberries, sliced, for one of the melons.

Dried Fruit Compote

This compote makes a great starter—or a wintry breakfast on its own alongside a batch of Buttermilk Muffins. Look for soft, pliable dried fruits, without brown spots. You can also serve this easy compote as a dessert with Sweetened Whipped Cream. Makes 6 servings

6 whole cloves

4 whole allspice berries

3 cardamom pods

1 star anise pod

3½ cups water, plus additional as needed

1 cup sugar

¼ cup honey

Two 4-inch cinnamon sticks

12 pitted prunes

10 dried red plum halves

8 dried peach halves, each halved

6 dried pear halves, each halved

6 dried figs, stemmed

6 dried pineapple rings, quartered

¼ teaspoon salt

Seal the cloves, allspice berries, cardamom pods, and star anise pods in a tea ball. Or wrap in a small piece of cheesecloth, tie with butcher’s twine, and set aside.

Stir the water, sugar, and honey in a large saucepan over medium-high heat until the sugar dissolves. Drop in the cinnamon sticks and the prepared spice ball, then bring the mixture to a simmer, undisturbed.

Stir in the prunes, dried plums, peaches, pears, figs, and pineapple rings; bring the liquid back to a simmer.

Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the fruit is soft, about 30 minutes. If the liquid gets absorbed (because the dried fruit was especially dry), add more water in ¼-cup increments. When done, the compote should have enough liquid to act as a sauce when it’s served.

Remove the pan from the heat and set aside, covered, until the mixture is at room temperature, about 1 hour. Remove the spice ball. Stir in the salt before serving.

To store: Transfer to a glass or plastic container, cover, and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days; let it return to room temperature before serving.

Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks

WE USUALLY SERVE THESE BITES AND NIBBLES IN THE LIVING ROOM AND SO have come to refer to them as “coffee-table food.”

Ever wonder why people gather in the kitchen at a party? Because the food’s there. Move the food to the coffee table and nine times out of ten, you’ll move the party to the living room, too.

A good appetizer is a momentary thing, barely noticed in the gap between “here” and “gone.” You can spend hours on the main course, but you’ll set a mood of grace and ease with a simple starter. If an appetizer’s too deliberate, it’s broken its promise: to give everyone time to settle in with a round of drinks. If you have to break out a full set of cutlery, what’s the point?

There was once a classic distinction between amuse-bouche (French for “mouth fun”) and first courses. In our modern world, the difference has largely vanished, except at high-end restaurants. Nowadays, appetizers are finger and fork foods be fore dinner—although we admit we’ve made a meal out of them many a night. Put together five or six, a range of flavors and textures, and you’ve got a party that can last well past the dinner hour.

No-Cook Spreads, Dips, and Salsas

These are the easiest of all: just a little chopping—and a lot of that can be done in a food processor or a blender. While most of these should be stored in the refrigerator, bring them to room temperature before serving because the flavors will have a chance to develop in ways that are impossible at colder temperatures.

Tapenade

This chunky olive paste is perfect on toasted bread. Be careful: there’s a fine line between chopped and mushed. Use a high-quality, cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil. Makes about 1 cup

2 cups pitted black olives, preferably Kalamata or niçoise olives

2 garlic cloves, quartered

1 tablespoon capers, drained

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme

1/₃ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

½ to 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Quick method:

Place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse until coarsely chopped.

Traditional method:

Place the olives, garlic, capers, and thyme on a large cutting board, preferably one with a small trough at the edges. Rock a chef’s knife through the ingredients, rotating the knife slowly so that it cuts everything into small chunks. Gather the mixture together several times and continue chopping until minced. Place in a serving bowl; stir in the olive oil, lemon juice, and pepper.

To store: Spoon into a nonreactive container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 4 days; allow the spread to return to room temperature before using.

Green Olive Tapenade: Substitute pitted green olives, preferably a tart Greek olive, for the black olives.

Roasted Garlic Tapenade: Wrap 4 unpeeled garlic cloves in a small foil packet, then roast in a preheated 400°F oven until soft, about 25 minutes. Squeeze the pulp into the food processor or onto the cutting board before you chop the olives. Reduce the olive oil to ¼ cup and the lemon juice to 1 tablespoon.

Sun-Dried Tomato Tapenade: Replace half the black olives with sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and rinsed. Reduce the olive oil to 3 tablespoons.

Nonreactive Bowls

A nonreactive bowl is one that will not form harmful chemical compounds when the acid in some foods comes in touch with its surface. Nonreactive materials include heat-safe glass, stainless steel, enameled iron, enameled steel, or some ceramics (certain glazes are reactive). Reactive cookware is made of tin, copper, and nonanodized aluminum, as well as certain dyes and chemicals in decorative glass and pottery.

Hummus

Tahini, a sesame seed paste, is a nutty foil to the chickpeas in this easy Middle Eastern dip. Makes about 2 cups

1²/₃ cups canned chickpeas or garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

2 garlic cloves

¼ cup tahini

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or in a large blender. Pulse or blend a few times to get everything chopped, then scrape down the sides of the bowl and puree or blend until smooth.

To store: Transfer to a nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Variations: Substitute peanut butter for the tahini.

Substitute any toasted nut oil for the olive oil.

Add 2 teaspoons dried dill, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 1 teaspoon lemon pepper, or ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper with the other ingredients.

Roasted Red Pepper Hummus: Reduce the tahini and lemon juice to 2 tablespoons each; add 1 whole jarred roasted red pepper or pimiento.

Roasted Garlic Hummus: Omit the garlic and use the pulp from a whole head of roasted garlic.

Serving Suggestions: After you’ve spooned the hummus into a serving bowl, drizzle extra virgin olive oil, toasted walnut oil, toasted pumpkin seed oil, or syrupy balsamic vinegar over the spread.

Red Pepper Almond Dip

Almonds blend into a creamy silkiness in this quick dip. Makes about 2 cups

2 large jarred whole roasted red peppers or pimientos

1 cup whole raw almonds

1 garlic clove, slivered

1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon fennel seeds

1/₈ teaspoon ground cinnamon

Place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

To store: Cover and refrigerate in a nonreactive bowl for up to 3 days, but allow the dip to come back to room temperature before serving.

Variations: Add 1 teaspoon dried oregano, ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg, and/or ¹/₈ teaspoon cayenne pepper.

Guacamole

Good guacamole is all about technique: make a paste, then stir in the avocados. Makes about 3 cups

2 garlic cloves, quartered

½ teaspoon kosher or coarse-grained salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons lime juice

1 teaspoon chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cumin

2 or more dashes of hot red pepper sauce

3 very ripe, almost black Hass avocados

16 cherry tomatoes, quartered

Place the garlic, salt, and pepper in a mortar and crush them into a paste with the pestle. Alternatively, place them in a medium bowl and use a sturdy fork to make a paste out of them, crushing the garlic against the salt grains.

Mix in the shallot, lime juice, chili powder, cumin, and hot red pepper sauce, using the pestle or fork to make a chunky paste out of the mixture.

Cut all the avocados in half through the stem remnant, taking care to slice around the large pit. Gently twist the two halves apart, then remove the pits. Use a sharp paring knife to make crosshatch cuts through the flesh while it’s still in the cuplike skin. Take care not to cut through the skin (especially if you’re holding the avocado in your hand).

Hold four of the avocado halves over the mortar or bowl and turn the skin inside out, thereby letting the pieces fall into the spice mixture. Use a fork to stir and gently mash the avocado into the mixture, creating a chunky dip.

Turn the remaining two avocado halves inside out over the mortar or the bowl, letting the chunks fall in. Add the cherry tomatoes, too. Stir gently with a wooden spoon. (We do not recommend making guacamole ahead.)

Variations: Omit the hot red pepper sauce and add 1 small canned chipotle in adobo, stemmed and seeded, with the garlic cloves.

Substitute ¼ cup minced red onion for the shallot.

Substitute lemon juice for the lime juice.

Margarita Guacamole: Add 2 tablespoons high-quality tequila with the garlic, kosher salt, and pepper as you make the paste. Also add 2 teaspoons grated orange zest with the lime juice.

Black Bean Dip

Always rinse canned beans to rid them of the slippery residue left over from the canning process. We’ve added vinegar and orange zest for a flavorful kick. Makes about 2 cups

1¾ cups canned black beans, drained and rinsed

1 red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped

1 canned chipotle in adobo, stemmed (see Note)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

Food processor method:

Place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse until coarsely chopped, then process until fairly smooth.

Hand-ground method:

Place the beans in a large bowl and mash with a pastry cutter or a fork; finely chop the bell pepper and chipotle and add them to the mixture. Use the pastry cutter or fork to mash in the remaining ingredients.

To store: Transfer to a nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Note: Seed the chipotle for a milder dip.

Variations: Substitute 1 fresh jalapeño chile, seeded, or 2 serrano chiles, seeded, for the chipotle in adobo.

Substitute 1 small red onion, roughly chopped, for the bell pepper.

Substitute walnut oil for the olive oil and add ¼ cup chopped toasted walnut pieces with the black beans.

White Bean and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip

This chunky Italian bean dip is often served on Tomato Bruschetta. It’s also a good sandwich spread, a mayonnaise substitute. Working by hand will produce a chunkier spread—more traditional but also more work. Makes about 2 cups

1²/₃ cups canned cannellini or Great Northern white beans, drained and rinsed

12 pitted black olives, roughly chopped

4 anchovy fillets, roughly chopped

¼ cup sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and roughly chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped parsley leaves

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Food processor method:

Place all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse just until combined, then process just until chunky.

Hand-ground method:

First, mince the anchovy fillets. Then place them and the beans in a bowl; mash with a pastry cutter or two forks. Stir in the remaining ingredients.

To store: Transfer to a nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Variations: Stir 2 chopped Roma or plum tomatoes into the finished dip.

Add 1 tablespoon chopped rosemary leaves and/ or 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme with the parsley.

Substitute red pepper flakes for the pepper.

Want breadsticks for the coffee table?.

Aïoli with Crudités

This Provençal mayonnaise is best as a dip for raw vegetables, although you can use it as a spread for sandwiches, a sauce with grilled fish, or a substitute for tartar sauce with fried seafood. We prefer light and healthy almond oil, but you can use olive oil for a more traditional taste. Crudités (crew-dee-TAY) is just French for cut-up vegetables. Makes about 1 cup

2 large egg yolks.

2 to 3 anchovy fillets

2 garlic cloves, quartered

2 tablespoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper

¾ cup almond oil or extra virgin olive oil

Thick cucumber rounds, celery ribs, baby carrots, cauliflower florets, and other raw vegetables for dipping

Place the egg yolks, anchovy fillets, garlic, lemon juice, and cayenne in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or in a large blender. Pulse or blend a few times until the anchovies are well chopped.

With the machine running, add the oil in the slowest drizzle, just a dribble at a time, either through the feed tube or through the center opening in the blender lid. It’s imperative that you add the oil slowly so that it has a chance to emulsify.

Once all the oil has been added, continue processing or blending until thick and smooth, about 30 seconds. Serve with raw vegetables on the side for dipping.

To store: Spoon the aïoli into a sealable container and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Note: If you’re concerned about raw egg yolks, use whole, in-the-shell, pasteurized eggs, found in the refrigerator case of most high-end markets.

Variations: Substitute 2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger for the anchovies and garlic.

Substitute 1 teaspoon prepared wasabi paste for the anchovies and the garlic.

Tzatziki with Toasted Pita Rounds

This classic Greek dip has been cooling down Mediterranean palates for hundreds of years. Look for thick, ricotta-like Greek yogurt at high-end markets or specialty food stores. Makes about 2 cups

8 ounces Greek yogurt (see Note)

1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and minced

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for brushing the pita rounds

2 teaspoons minced mint leaves or minced dill fronds

1 to 2 teaspoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Round pita pockets

Mix the yogurt, cucumber, garlic, olive oil, mint or dill, lemon juice, salt, and pepper in a large bowl until smooth. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Preheat the broiler. Open the pita pockets, then split them apart, creating two rounds. Brush the smooth side of each with a little olive oil, then slice the rounds into pie-shaped wedges. Place these on the broiler rack or a baking sheet and toast 4 inches from the heat source until lightly browned, a little less than 1 minute. Serve with the chilled Tzatziki.

To store: Cover the dip and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Note: If you can’t find Greek yogurt, line a colander with cheesecloth or a large coffee filter, put 12 ounces plain yogurt in it, and place the whole thing over a bowl to catch the drips. Refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight. Discard the watery material in the bowl; use the thickened yogurt in the colander.

Dip Vehicles

Toasted pita wedges

Toasted sliced baguette rounds

Corn or flour tortillas

Chips and crackers of all sorts

Rice cakes

Pretzel rods

Thick-cut waffle potato chips or Gaufrettes

Celery ribs, baby carrots, and seeded bell pepper spears (see Note)

Broccoli and cauliflower florets

Sugar snap peas

Endive spears

Braised or grilled asparagus spears

453—stand them up in a vase for a gorgeous presentation)

Thick-cut cucumber rounds

Grilled chicken wings or tenders

Crunchy apple slices, lightly washed with lemon juice

Note: If you don’t want to cut up your own vegetables, check the salad bar at your supermarket; these vegetables are there and ready to go (but pricier than the do-it-yourself varieties).

The Ultimate Salsa

Simply put, salsa is a raw dip, a mixture of two contrasting flavors, spiked with aromatics and a little heat. Oil is optional. That said, there’s no reason to stand on ceremony—just as there’s no reason not to experiment, especially since the bright flavors of fruits and vegetables match so well with aromatics and spices. Here’s a chart to get you going on your own customized salsa. Mix and match items from each column.

To season: Salt just before serving the salsa. Start with ½ teaspoon salt and taste. If you salt it ahead of time, the fruit and vegetables will weep and the salsa will turn watery in storage.

To store: Place in a nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Our Favorite Combinations

Traditional Salsa: Tomatoes, red onion, oregano, jalapeño, and canola oil

Pineapple Salsa: Pineapple, red onion, thyme, mint, and serrano

Peach Salsa: Peaches, shallot, thyme, allspice, hot red pepper sauce, and almond oil

Tomatillo Salsa: Tomatillos, apple, thyme, oregano, jalapeño, and olive oil

Cooked Dips

Not all of these dips are served hot, but they all do involve turning the stove or oven on. That said, most of them are as easy as their no-cook kin.

Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto

Hardly traditional, this pizza-sauce pesto makes an excellent dip for bread, crackers, pita wedges, or chips. Makes about 2 cups

16 sun-dried tomato halves (see Note)

2 cups boiling water

1/₃ cup grated aged Asiago

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon packed oregano leaves

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

2 roasted garlic heads

Place the sun-dried tomatoes in a medium bowl, pour the boiling water over them, and soak until soft, about 20 minutes.

Place the softened tomatoes and 6 tablespoons of their soaking liquid in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade or in a large blender. Add the grated cheese, olive oil, oregano, vinegar, and salt.

Squeeze the pulp from each roasted garlic clove into the processor or blender. Pulse a few times, then process or blend until smooth.

To store: Transfer to a nonreactive bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days; serve at room temperature.

Note: Use pliable, soft, sun-dried tomatoes, often found in the produce section of your market. Don’t use sun-dried tomatoes packed in oil.

Variations: Add ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes with the salt.

Substitute rosemary, tarragon, or thyme leaves for the oregano.

Substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, or hard, aged goat cheese for the Asiago.

Pesto

Pesto is a no-cook, Italian sauce, a favorite since Roman times and often thought to come from either Genoa or Sicily, but in fact probably of African origins. Although traditionally made of basil, pine nuts, Parmigiano-Reggiano, olive oil, garlic, and salt, pesto can truly be made from a range of ingredients, including this version with no nuts and oregano standing in for the basil. We’ve included it here among the cooked dips because the sun-dried tomatoes must be softened with boiling water (thus, the stove must be turned on and the garlic, roasted). Other pestos in this book, equally good as coffee-table dips, are Sage Pesto, Pecan Pesto, and Mint Pesto. See section Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks for a host of things that’ll get the pesto from the bowl to your mouth.

Eggplant Caviar

This classic dip—sometimes called “Poor Man’s Caviar” because of the creamy, tiny caviar-like eggplant seeds—is enhanced by the sour spike of pomegranate molasses, a Middle Eastern condiment. Makes about 3 cups

1 medium eggplant (about 1 pound)

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium shallots, chopped

1 jarred whole roasted red pepper or pimiento, drained, rinsed, and minced

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Prick the eggplant in several places with a fork. Wrap it in heavy-duty aluminum foil or a couple of layers of regular foil. Place it directly over a low gas flame and roast until soft, turning often, about 30 minutes. Alternatively, prick the eggplant, wrap it in the foil, and roast in a preheated 375°F oven on a lipped baking sheet until soft, about 40 minutes. In either case, cool at room temperature until easily handled, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a medium skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the oil, then add the shallots and reduce the heat to very low. Cook, stirring often, until golden, about 15 minutes.

Unwrap the eggplant and cut it in half. Scoop the flesh into a medium nonreactive bowl. Stir in the softened shallots, minced red pepper or pimiento, pomegranate molasses, vinegar, salt, and pepper with a fork, mashing the eggplant slightly as you do so.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days; serve at room temperature.

Variations: Substitute 1 medium yellow onion, chopped, for the shallots.

Substitute frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed, or frozen cranberry juice concentrate, thawed, for the pomegranate molasses.

Stir in 1 tablespoon minced oregano leaves, 1 tablespoon minced parsley leaves, or 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme with the salt.

Omit the black pepper and add a few dashes of hot red pepper sauce.

Stir ¼ cup sour cream into the dip.

Artichoke Dip

We prefer fresh baby artichokes, rather than canned hearts, which often make the dip gummy. It’s even better the next day, after the flavors have had a chance to meld. Makes about 3 cups

12 baby artichokes

1 lemon, quartered

3 large egg yolks

½ cup homemade mayonnaise or purchased mayonnaise (do not use fat-free)

½ cup dry vermouth or dry white wine

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated (about ¼ cup)

2 tablespoons chopped chives or 2 tablespoons minced scallions, green part only

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Meanwhile, trim off the tough outer leaves from the artichokes; trim off any woody stems as well. Cut the trimmed artichokes in half.

Drop the artichokes and the quartered lemon into the boiling water; cook until the artichokes are tender, about 12 to 15 minutes. While they’re cooking, position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Drain the artichokes in a colander set in the sink, discard the lemon quarters, and refresh the artichokes under cool running water until room temperature.

Place the artichokes, egg yolks, mayonnaise, vermouth or wine, Parmigiano-Reggiano, chives, mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and hot red pepper sauce in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade. Pulse a few times, then scrape down the sides of the bowl and process until smooth.

Spoon the dip into an oven-safe crock or a small, deep baking dish. Bake until set, bubbling, and lightly browned, about 40 minutes. Set aside at room temperature for 5 minutes before serving.

Variations: You can use frozen baby artichokes—do not defrost; drop them straight into the water and cook until tender, about 10 minutes.

Substitute Asiago, Pecorino Romano, or Grana Padano for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

For an Asian take, substitute 2 teaspoons minced peeled fresh ginger and 1 teaspoon sesame oil for the mustard.

Asparagus Dip: Substitute 2 pounds asparagus spears for the artichokes. To cook, trim the spears with a vegetable peeler to get rid of any stringy bits, cut the spears into 2-inch sections, and boil until tender, about 5 minutes.

Borscht on a Cracker

Borscht is traditionally beet soup, but this borscht-style dip is a great starter—provided you don’t have white carpeting. Makes 6 servings

8 medium beets, peeled

2/₃ cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons minced dill fronds

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

24 to 30 small crackers, such as table water crackers

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F. Wrap the beets tightly in aluminum foil.

Bake until tender, about 1 hour. Cool in the foil packet for 15 minutes.

Carefully unwrap the packet; save any liquid. Cool the beets until you can handle them, then shred through the large holes of a box grater into a large bowl. Alternatively, feed them through the shredding blade into a food processor. Stir in any liquid from the packet.

Stir in the sour cream, dill, oil, vinegar, horseradish, salt, and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours. Spoon in small mounds onto crackers to serve.

Variations: Substitute golden beets for the regular beets.

Substitute peeled turnips or peeled parsnips for half the beets.

Double-Duty Appetizers

These do double service: they’re welcome on the coffee table where they can be picked up with a small fork or a toothpick, but they can also put in an appearance as a condiment with roasts or barbecue, or as a spark alongside salads or noodles.

Roasted Peppers with Balsamic Vinegar and Basil

The trick to this classic Italian antipasto is the quality of the balsamic vinegar. We suggest using an aged balsamic—five years maybe, not fifteen or twenty—not too syrupy, but with character and depth. Makes about 6 servings (about 4 cups)

3 red bell peppers

3 yellow bell peppers

12 basil leaves, finely shredded

1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt, preferably kosher or coarse-grained salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Char the bell peppers, either by holding and turning them one at a time with tongs over an open gas flame so that the outer skin bubbles and blackens, or by placing them on a large lipped baking sheet set 4 inches from a preheated broiler and turning occasionally until blackened all over, about 6 minutes. In either case, transfer to a paper bag and seal tightly or put them all in a large bowl and seal with plastic wrap. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Gently remove the peppers from the bag or bowl and peel off the blackened skin while holding the peppers over a clean medium bowl. (You want to catch any juice.) Don’t peel the peppers under running water; you’ll rinse off a good deal of their flavor. There’s no harm if a few black specks remain.

Stem, core, and seed the peppers on a large cutting board, again preserving as much juice as possible. Cut the peppers into ½-inch strips and place them in the medium bowl along with any reserved juice.

Toss with the basil, balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper. Cover and set aside at room temperature for at least 2 hours.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days; serve at room temperature.

Variation: Substitute 2 tablespoons minced mint, parsley, rosemary, tarragon, or thyme for the basil.

Trushee

These no-canning pickles are traditional in Sephardic homes at Passover. You’ll need at least 2 days to let them marinate. Try them alongside toasted walnut halves. Makes about 20 servings

2 small cauliflower heads, stemmed and cut into small florets

10 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced into rings

1 pound green beans, trimmed

4 cups white vinegar

4 cups water

1/₃ cup sugar

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons salt, preferably kosher salt

4 garlic cloves, peeled

3 bay leaves

Fill a large pot or Dutch oven halfway with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add the cauliflower florets; cook for 1 minute. Add the carrots; cook for 2 more minutes. Add the beans; cook for 1 minute. Drain everything in a large colander set in the sink—work in batches if you need to—then refresh under cool, running water until room temperature. Set aside to drain.

Return the pot or Dutch oven to medium-high heat; add the vinegar, water, sugar, salt, garlic, and bay leaves, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Leave the pot untouched until it comes to a full boil—the moment it does, remove it from the heat and cool at room temperature for 10 minutes.

Place the drained vegetables in a very large nonreactive crock, bowl, or glass jar. Pour the vinegary syrup over them. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 2 days, turning the vegetables occasionally in the marinade. Discard the bay leaves before serving. Serve by scooping out the trushee with a slotted spoon, draining them, and placing them on a small platter, or by placing the whole crock on the coffee table and allowing your guests to spear their own with bamboo skewers.

To store: Refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 weeks.

Variations: Add 3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill with the vinegar.

Add 3 small red chiles with the vinegar; discard the chiles before serving.

Candied Garlic

Serve these spicy/sweet cloves with cocktails; have toothpicks at the ready. Makes 40 candied cloves

40 garlic cloves, peeled

1½ cups water

Vegetable oil, for greasing the plate

2 tablespoons sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

Bring the garlic and water to a boil in a large skillet set over high heat. Cook until the water has evaporated, about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, lightly oil a pie plate.

Sprinkle the sugar over the garlic and reduce the heat to medium. Toss until the sugar melts, caramelizes, coats the cloves, and browns lightly. Spread the garlic in the caramelized syrup onto the prepared pie plate. Sprinkle with salt. Set aside to cool, about 1 hour.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days; return to room temperature before serving.

Five Things to Do with Candied Garlic

Place a small dot of Taleggio in endive spears; add a candied garlic clove to each.

Place a wheel of Brie in a small baking dish, then add several candied garlic cloves, maybe a dozen or so. Cover with aluminum foil and bake in a preheated 400°F oven until the cheese is soft and gooey, about 15 minutes.

Top a baked Focaccia with candied garlic.

Toss in salads or green vegetable sides.

Add two or three diced, candied garlic cloves to an omelet.

Oven-Dried Tomatoes

If you have time but not a lot of energy, here’s the perfect nibble: you simply let the oven do the work. Makes 24 pieces

Nonstick spray or vegetable oil

12 Roma or plum tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise

Sea salt or other coarse-grained salt

Position the rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 200°F. Generously spray or oil an oven-safe wire rack. Place the tomato halves, cut side up, on the prepared rack, then set the rack on a lipped baking sheet. Sprinkle the tomatoes with salt.

Bake until dark red, shriveled, but still moist, about 8 hours. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature on the wire rack.

Serving Suggestions: Drizzle the dried tomatoes with extra virgin olive oil, aged balsamic vinegar, white balsamic vinegar, toasted pumpkin seed oil, toasted walnut oil, toasted sesame oil, avocado oil, or any infused olive oil.

Spread a little Tapenade, Pecan Pesto, Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto, or softened goat cheese on each tomato.

Place a small dollop of crème fraîche or sour cream on each tomato after it’s cooled. You can also spoon a little caviar or salmon roe onto the crème fraîche or sour cream.

Once you’ve topped the tomatoes with crème fraîche or sour cream, sprinkle them with toasted sesame seeds, finely chopped toasted walnuts, or any chopped green herb from parsley to tarragon.

Baby Squash and Zucchini Boats

Choose squash and zucchini that are relatively the same size so that they cook evenly. Makes 48 appetizers

24 baby pattypan squash (about 1½ inches in diameter), stemmed

24 baby zucchini (about 2 inches long), stemmed

1²/₃ cups canned white beans, drained and rinsed

12 black olives, preferably Kalamata olives, pitted

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Small dill sprigs for garnish

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the squash and zucchini; blanch for 2 minutes or until crisp-tender. Drain in a colander set in the sink, then refresh under cold, running water until room temperature.

Cut off the top of each squash, only about ½ inch or so; also cut a small strip down one side of each zucchini. Hollow out the squash and zucchini with a very small melon baller or a very small spoon, taking care to keep the sides intact.

Puree the beans, olives, olive oil, lemon juice, cumin, cinnamon, salt, and pepper in a food processor fitted with the processing blade or a large blender. Alternatively, grind the mixture in a large mortar with a pestle.

Place this mixture in a plastic ziplock bag, snip off a tiny corner, seal, and pipe into the squash and zucchini. Alternatively, use a very small spoon to mound a little of the mixture into each vegetable. Garnish each with a sprig of dill.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day; return to room temperature before serving. You can also make the white bean filling up to 3 days in advance and store it, tightly covered, in the refrigerator until you’re ready to cook the vegetables.

The Classic Cocktails

We prefer smaller, ’50ish drinks, rather than their gargantuan, modern kin, which turn depressingly warm and diluted. All these make one drink; you can double at will. If the drink is served up—that is, not over ice—chill the serving glass with ice while you shake the drink, then toss out the ice in the glass and strain the drink into the now-chilled glass. If you don’t have a 1-ounce jigger measure, remember that ¼ ounce equals ½ tablespoon, ½ ounce equals 1 tablespoon, ¾ ounce equals 1½ tablespoons, and 1 ounce equals 2 tablespoons.

Cosmopolitan

Shake 1½ ounces vodka, ¾ ounce Cointreau, ¾ ounce lime juice, and ¼ ounce thawed cranberry juice concentrate with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain into a chilled martini glass.

Daiquiri

Shake 1½ ounces white rum, ½ ounce lime juice, and 1 teaspoon confectioners’ sugar with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain into a chilled martini glass.

Gimlet

Shake 1½ ounces gin and ¾ ounce sweetened lime juice (such as Rose’s) with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain over ice into a glass; serve with a lime wedge.

Manhattan

Shake 1½ ounces Canadian whisky (or rye) and ¾ ounce sweet vermouth with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain into a chilled martini glass; garnish with a maraschino cherry.

Margarita

Shake 1 ounce tequila, 1 ounce orange-flavored liqueur (such as Cointreau), 1 ounce lime juice, and ¼ teaspoon superfine sugar with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain over ice into a glass.

Martini

Shake 1½ ounces gin and ¼ ounce dry vermouth with ice in a cocktail shaker, then strain into a chilled martini glass; garnish with an olive.

Mint Julep

Place 6 fresh mint leaves, 1 teaspoon superfine sugar, and 1 teaspoon water in a highball glass; crush and muddle until pastelike. Fill the glass with crushed ice cubes and a few fresh mint leaves; add 2 ounces bourbon and serve with a long spoon.

Mojito

Place 6 fresh mint leaves and 1 teaspoon superfine sugar in a cocktail shaker; muddle and bruise to bring out the mint’s flavor. Fill the shaker with ice, then add 1½ ounces light rum, ¾ ounce lime juice, and a dash of bitters. Shake well, then strain into a chilled martini glass; garnish with fresh mint leaves.

Old-Fashioned

Place a sugar cube in a highball glass; dot with 2 dashes of bitters and 1 teaspoon water. Crush and muddle with the back of a spoon, then add a few ice cubes, 2 ounces blended whiskey, and a lemon twist.

Sidecar

Shake 1½ ounces brandy, ¾ ounce orange-flavored liqueur (such as Cointreau), ¾ ounce lemon juice, and ¼ teaspoon superfine sugar with ice in a cocktail shaker; strain into a chilled martini glass.

Easy Nibbles

Most of these can stand on their own. Taken together, they make a meal. Best of all, many can be made ahead so you’re not in the kitchen at the last minute.

Glazed Bacon

Salty bacon with a maple-syrup shine—frankly, heaven. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings

1 pound thick-cut bacon, preferably pepper bacon (do not use turkey or soy bacon)

¼ cup maple syrup

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

Spread the bacon strips on the prepared baking sheet. Brush them with the maple syrup.

Bake until golden and crisp, about 25 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes, then cut into bite-sized bits and serve with toothpicks.

Variations: Substitute ¼ cup honey mixed with 1 tablespoon hot water for the maple syrup.

Substitute ¹/₃ cup apricot jam or orange marmalade, stirred and melted in a small saucepan over low heat, for the maple syrup.

A road map for Bacon-Wrapped Anything

Everything may be better with bacon, but appetizers, most of all. You’ll need half as many strips of bacon as items you want to wrap.

Start with any of the following:

Sea scallops, halved into 2 disks, each sprinkled with a few drops of hot red pepper sauce

Medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined, marinated in white wine in the refrigerator for 1 hour

Chicken livers, halved and marinated in dry sherry in the refrigerator for 1 hour or topped with a small dollop of bottled chili sauce

Large pitted dates, preferably Medjools, split open, stuffed with a blanched almond, and closed again

Very ripe plantains (the peel almost black), peeled and cut into 1-inch disks

Shucked oysters

Candied Garlic

Wrap as many of these as you want with

thin-cut bacon strips, each sliced in half the short way

The strips will go around the pieces just a couple of times.

Heat a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium-high heat. Swirl in

1 tablespoon olive, canola, or vegetable oil

Add the bacon-wrapped bits, seam side down, and cook until the bacon is crispy, about 3 to 5 minutes, turning occasionally. Transfer to a wire rack set over a large baking sheet to drain, then serve at room temperature.

Drunken Cucumbers

Since cucumbers pick up the taste of whatever they’re in, they ought to be in vodka. Makes about 12 servings

One 1-liter bottle vodka

2 teaspoons sugar

4 large cucumbers, peeled and cut into ½-inch rounds

1 to 2 serrano or Thai hot chiles, cut in half lengthwise

Stir the vodka and sugar in a large bowl, pitcher, glass container, or food-safe crock until the sugar dissolves.

Add the cucumber slices and chiles. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 days and up to 2 months. To serve, remove the cucumber slices with a slotted spoon.

Variations: Substitute any of the following for the chiles: 2 lemons, cut into quarters; ½ cup dried cranberries; 2 tablespoons chopped mint leaves; 2 tablespoons chopped dill fronds; 1 tablespoon cracked black peppercorns.

Serving Suggestions: Remove the cucumber rounds with a slotted spoon and serve them on crackers topped with a little smear of softened cream cheese or soft goat cheese. Or use a toothpick to spear a pitted olive to each slice. Or use slices as a garnish for a vodka cocktail.

Once the cucumbers are gone from the vodka, use it for mixed drinks or store it in the freezer for ice-cold shots.

Tomato Bruschetta

Make sure you buy the ripest tomatoes possible for these open-faced appetizers. Makes 30 bruschetta

One 16-inch loaf Italian bread or French baguette

4 large garlic cloves, peeled and halved the long way

4 to 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

8 plum or Roma tomatoes, chopped

8 basil leaves, shredded

1 small red onion, minced

1½ tablespoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon sugar

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Preheat the broiler. Slice the bread into ½-inch-thick rounds, discarding the crusty ends.

Place the rounds on a large baking sheet and toast them on one side only, 4 inches from the heat, until quite browned and very crunchy, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool for 5 minutes.

Rub the toasted side of the rounds with the cut garlic. (It takes about 4 pieces of bread to use up a halved clove. Don’t tear the bread, but do get the garlic oils and some of the garlic meat into the bread’s surface.) Lightly brush the toasted sides with the olive oil.

Mix the tomatoes, basil, onion, lemon juice, and sugar in a medium bowl. You can cover the tomato topping and keep it in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours; simply leave the toasted rounds out on the counter until you’re ready to use them.

Just before serving, season the tomato mixture with salt and pepper; spoon some over the toasted rounds.

Variations: Substitute red wine vinegar for the lemon juice.

Omit the sugar and substitute aged balsamic vinegar for the lemon juice.

Substitute fresh oregano or rosemary for the basil.

Omit the basil and add 2 teaspoons capers, drained and rinsed, with the tomatoes.

Other Bruschetta: Once you toast the bread and season it (steps 1 to 3), you can use an array of toppings, including Tapenade; Sage Pesto; White Bean and Sun-Dried Tomato Dip; Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto; Roasted Peppers with Balsamic Vinegar and Basil; mascarpone cheese, softened to room temperature, then dotted with chutney; or cream cheese, softened to room temperature, topped with chutney.

Radish Sandwiches

These buttery tea sandwiches are always welcome before a meal. Makes 12 small tea sandwiches

Unsalted butter, softened, to taste

6 slices white bread

6 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced

Coarse-grained or kosher salt to taste

Lightly butter one side of each of the slices of bread. Lay them, buttered side up, on the work surface; then divide the radishes among 3 of the slices, layering the rings across with the bread while keeping them back about ½ inch from the crust. Sprinkle with salt.

Top each of the open-faced sandwiches with another slice of bread, buttered side down; trim off the crusts. Cut each sandwich on the diagonal into 4 small, triangular sandwiches.

Variations: Toast the bread.

Lay arugula or basil leaves on top of the radish rings before closing the sandwiches.

Sprinkle a few drops of hot red pepper sauce over the radish rings before closing the sandwiches.

Chicken Wings, Three Ways

U.S. restaurant-goers ordered over 7 billion pounds of chicken wings in 2004! No wonder: there’s something splendid about the skin-to-meat-to-bone ratio. Makes 8 to 10 appetizer servings

1. Lemon Wings

3 pounds chicken wings, tips removed and discarded, drumlet and winglet sections separated

¼ cup lemon juice 6 garlic cloves, crushed 1 teaspoon salt

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2. Sesame Wings

3 pounds chicken wings, tips removed and discarded, drumlet and winglet sections separated

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ cup toasted sesame seeds

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon salt

3. Buffalo Wings

3 pounds chicken wings, tips removed and discarded, drumlet and winglet sections separated

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

½ cup bottled chili sauce, such as Heinz (or ketchup for slightly milder wings)

¼ cup hot red pepper sauce or Asian red pepper sauce

4 garlic cloves, crushed

½ teaspoon salt

For any recipe, mix all the ingredients together in a large bowl. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour, stirring occasionally. (The Sesame and Buffalo Wings can be stored up to 12 hours; the Lemon Wings should not be kept more than 2 hours.)

Prepare the grill by preheating a gas grill to medium heat or building a medium-heat ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill; or preheat the broiler. (If desired, line the broiler pan with aluminum foil to make cleanup easier.)

Grill the marinated wings directly over medium heat until crispy and brown, about 15 minutes, turning once or twice. Or broil 4 inches from the heat source until crispy, about 12 minutes, turning a couple of times.

Chicken Wings

Each chicken has two wings; each wing has three parts. There’s the pointed tip, called the “flapper” in industry parlance. It’s usually removed and discarded in American kitchens but is highly prized in Asian ones. The two meatier sections are the drumlet (so named because it looks like a little drumstick) and the double-boned winglet.

To divide the parts of a wing, hold them against a cutting board and pull any two of the three sections gently apart until the joint is revealed. With the cutting edge toward you, insert the tip of a knife into the joint, pressing the tip straight down to the board; then bring the cutting edge down toward the board, slicing through the ligaments and tendons until the joint snaps apart. Finally, slice through the skin to separate. Repeat with the other joint in the wing.

“Deviled” Eggs, Eight Ways

Filled, hard-cooked eggs never last long on the coffee table. Here are eight versions for your next party. Makes 12 filled egg halves (can be doubled or tripled)

6 large eggs

One of the eight fillings that follows

Place the eggs in a saucepan large enough to hold them comfortably in one layer. Fill the pan with cool water so that it comes 1 inch over the eggs. Cover, place over high heat, and bring the water to a full boil.

Remove the pan from the heat, cover, and set aside for 15 minutes. Pour off most of the water in the pan, add a few ice cubes, and run cold water into the pan to cool the eggs quickly to room temperature.

Tap the shells against a counter to crack them in several places, then roll them gently between your palms. Peel off the shells, starting at the large ends.

Cut the eggs in half the long way, then scoop the yolks into a bowl. Set the whites aside while you make one of the fillings.

Spoon the filling back into the whites. For a fancier presentation, place the filling in a pastry bag fitted with a small, star-shaped tip and pipe into the whites—or place the filling in a resealable plastic bag, snip off a tiny bit of one corner, and squeeze the filling through the hole into the whites.

To store: Place the filled eggs on a serving platter, cover loosely with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 24 hours; allow them to stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Tip for Success

If your appetizer buffet is going to last for an hour or so, consider making a double batch and keeping half the eggs in the fridge until the first batch has been eaten.

The Eight Fillings

For any of these, add the ingredients to a medium bowl; and stir and mash with a fork until creamy. Use either homemade mayonnaise or purchased (regular, low-fat, or fat-free).

1. Classic Deviled Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon dry mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

2. Ginger Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon chili paste

¼ teaspoon salt

3. Curried Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons dry mustard

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 teaspoons lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

4. Wasabi Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons prepared wasabi paste

½ teaspoon soy sauce

5. French Onion Dip Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

1½ tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

1 tablespoon minced chives or 1 tablespoon minced scallion, green part only

½ teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon salt

6. Cocktail Sauce Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

2 tablespoons ketchup

1 to 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish

1 teaspoon lemon juice

¼ teaspoon salt

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

7. Southwestern Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 teaspoons chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon lime juice

¼ teaspoon salt

8. Quiche Lorraine Eggs

6 hard-cooked egg yolks

3 strips bacon, fried until crisp and crumbled into very small bits

2 tablespoons sour cream (reqular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons minced scallion, green part only

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Cold Sake-and-Ginger Mussels

Here, you steam the mussels in sake, then chill them in a ginger broth. For tips on handling mussels, see section Fish and Shellfish. Makes 6 appetizer servings (can be doubled)

½ cup sake

3 garlic cloves, quartered

36 large mussels, cleaned and debearded

1 small shallot, minced

¼ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

2 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

Pickled sushi ginger for garnish

Bring the sake and garlic to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Add the mussels, cover, and reduce the heat to medium. Simmer until the mussels open, about 5 minutes. Drain in a large colander set in the sink and cool for a few minutes.

Collect any mussels from the colander that have fallen out of their shells, then pull the remainder out of their shells. Place the mussel meat in a medium bowl and gently stir in the shallot, soy sauce, ginger, cilantro, and sesame oil. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 48 hours. Place the shells in a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate separately as well.

Return one mussel to each shell half along with some of the marinade. (Of course, you will have twice as many shell halves as mussels; choose the largest and prettiest ones.) Top each with a small piece of pickled sushi ginger for garnish.

Variations: Substitute Japanese beer, such as Kirin or Ichiban, for the sake.

Add up to 1 teaspoon Chinese chili paste with the soy sauce.

Steamed Shrimp with Classic Cocktail Sauce

There’s nothing better than this American favorite. Feel free to adjust the horseradish or hot sauce to your taste. For an elegant presentation, place the shrimp in martini glasses and top with this classic American sauce. Makes about 6 appetizer servings (with 1½ cups sauce)

1 cup ketchup

¼ cup prepared horseradish

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped dill fronds

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

1 pound medium shrimp (35 to 40 per pound), deveined but unpeeled

Mix the ketchup, horseradish, lemon juice, dill, Worcestershire sauce, and hot red pepper sauce in a small nonreactive bowl. (The sauce can be made in advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

Place the shrimp in the layers of a tiered bamboo steamer. Alternatively, use a conventional vegetable steamer. Fill a large pot—one whose width matches the bamboo steamer or that accommodates the vegetable steamer—with 2 inches of water. Bring to a boil over high heat.

Place the steamer or basket over the water and cook until the shrimp are pink and firm, about 5 minutes. Remove the shrimp immediately from the heat to stop their cooking. Be forewarned—they are very hot. Serve warm or chill first in an ice-water bath, then in the refrigerator, before serving with Classic Cocktail Sauce on the side.

Shrimp Yakitori

Although yakitori means “grilled poultry” in Japanese, we think this classic, sweet, sticky sauce goes exceptionally well with shrimp. Consider standing the skewered shrimp up in a vase as a “bouquet.” Makes 18 shrimp on skewers

½ cup dry sake or white wine

¼ cup soy sauce (see Note)

1 tablespoon mirin

1 tablespoon molasses

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

18 large shrimp, preferably those that measure 15 to 20 per pound, peeled and deveined

18 bamboo skewers

2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Whisk the sake, soy sauce, mirin, molasses, Worcestershire sauce, and sugar in a small saucepan set over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer, reduce the heat, and simmer for 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. (The sauce can be made in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.)

Stir the shrimp into the cooled marinade and set aside for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, soak the skewers in a baking pan filled with water for 15 minutes to ensure they don’t burn over the fire. Also preheat the broiler or prepare the grill for a medium-heat fire.

Thread a shrimp onto each skewer, starting at the tail end of the shrimp and threading it back and forth onto the skewer so that it straightens out, its natural curve bent open as the skewer pierces it three or four times. Reserve the marinade.

Broil the shrimp 6 inches from the heat source for 2 minutes or grill over medium heat for 2 minutes. Brush with the reserved marinade, turn, and continue cooking until the shrimp are pink and firm, 2 to 3 minutes, basting once more with the marinade. If you place the skewer ends to the side of the heat source, they will not burn—or wrap the ends in aluminum foil. Place the skewered shrimp on a serving plate and sprinkle with the sesame seeds.

Note: Yakitori sauce is usually made with tamari, a thick, dark Japanese soy sauce that proves hard to find in the United States. Here, we’ve crafted a mélange to replicate tamari; should you get a bottle, omit the soy sauce, molasses, and Worcestershire sauce and use 1_/3 cup.

Variations: Substitute chicken tenders or sea scallops for the shrimp.

Use the yakitori sauce as a marinade and/or barbecue mop for boneless skinless chicken breasts or boneless pork loin chops on the grill.

Crab Sage Puffs

Serve these light, airy bundles with Blue Cheese Dressing, purchased ranch dressing, or mango chutney. Makes about 18 puffs

½ cup water

1½ tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for greasing the baking sheet

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 large egg plus 1 egg white

1 ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated

2 teaspoons minced sage leaves

A couple of dashes hot red pepper sauce to taste

6 ounces lump crabmeat

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F. Generously grease a large baking sheet with some olive oil dabbed on a paper towel.

In a small saucepan, bring the water, olive oil, salt, and pepper to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and whisk in the flour. Cook, whisking all the while, until the bottom and sides of the pan are coated with a white film. Scoop the mixture into a large bowl; cool for 3 minutes.

With an electric mixer on medium speed, beat the egg into the flour mixture until smooth. Beat in the egg white until smooth, then beat in the Parmigiano-Reggiano, sage, and hot red pepper sauce until well combined, about 1 minute. Remove the beaters and stir in the crabmeat.

Drop by tablespoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing the mounds about 1 inch apart. Set the sheet aside for 10 minutes to air-dry the mounds.

Bake until golden brown and puffed, about 30 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 2 minutes, then cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes or until room temperature.

Shrimp Sage Puffs: Substitute 6 ounces medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, and cooked, for the crabmeat. For the easiest substitution, just buy cooked cocktail shrimp at your supermarket. Mince the cooked shrimp very finely before adding them to the batter.

Herb Puffs: Omit the crabmeat and increase the sage to 1½ tablespoons—or substitute any minced herb you prefer.

Potato Cups

Transform small, red-skinned potatoes into cups to hold herbed crème fraîche and a dollop of caviar, whether salmon, osetra, or beluga. Admittedly, this appetizer is only as good as the caviar you use—so consider it a treat and go for broke. You’ll need a very sharp knife to slice the cooked potatoes without tearing the skin. Makes 24 potato cups

Twenty-four 1½-inch-diameter round red-skinned potatoes

1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

2 tablespoons minced dill fronds

¼ cup salmon, osetra, or beluga caviar

Bring about 2 inches of water to a boil over high heat in a large saucepan. Place the potatoes in a vegetable steamer, set it over the boiling water, and cover. Reduce the heat to medium and steam the potatoes until just tender when pierced with a fork, with a little give, about 15 minutes. Pour the potatoes into a colander set in the sink and refresh under cool, running water until room temperature.

Cut a thin slice off the bottom of each potato (so it will stand up), then use a small melon-baller or a grapefruit spoon to scoop out a rounded hole on the side of the potato opposite the cut bottom. Set aside for 10 minutes, just to make sure the centers are at room temperature.

Mix the crème fraîche or sour cream with the dill in a small bowl. Spoon 2 teaspoons into each potato. Top each with about ¼ teaspoon caviar and serve.

Variations: Substitute parsley, thyme, or chervil for the dill.

Omit the dill and stir either 2 teaspoons curry powder or 1 teaspoon wasabi powder into the crème fraîche or sour cream.

Substitute Aïoli for the crème fraîche or sour cream.

Omit the caviar and top each filled potato with a small slice of Gravlax or smoked salmon. Or top each with a smoked oyster.

Prosciutto Nibbles

Prosciutto is unsmoked, air-dried, salt-cured, pressed ham, originally from Parma, but now made in many places in Italy as well as in the United States. If you want to find the real deal, look for “Prosciutto di Parma” or “Prosciutto di San Daniele” stamped on the rind—and expect to pay commensurately. When buying other versions, ask to taste first. The taste should be salty but bright; the meat should be a little chewy. If it tastes metallic or dull, it’s been for sale too long.

Have the butcher cut the ham into paper-thin strips, which he or she will lay between pieces of waxed butcher paper and seal in a plastic bag. Do not unwrap the bag until you’re ready to use the prosciutto; the slices are so thin and dry, they will turn leathery if exposed too long to the air.

Cut the slices into manageable strips, then wrap them around fresh fig halves, prunes soaked in Armagnac, honeydew or cantaloupe chunks, apple wedges that have been rinsed with lemon juice, pineapple spears, steamed asparagus spears, or Brie slices dabbed with fruit chutney.

Spiced Nuts

A little oil and some dried spices—there’s nothing to making spiced nuts. Makes 2 cups

Start by lightly toasting 2 cups nuts in a preheated 350°F oven on a large baking sheet for 5 minutes. Cool the nuts on the baking sheet, then follow one of these formulas.

Once the nuts are coated in the spices, pour them onto a large baking sheet and cool to room temperature, stirring occasionally, about 1 hour. Store in a ziplock plastic bag at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.

Cheesy Bits

We love cheese as a savory alternative to dessert, but we usually don’t put it out unadorned with other nibbles. Perhaps it’s a little too heavy? Or naked? But no doubt about it: dressed up, crunchy or gooey, cheesy appetizers are always gone in a flash.

Asiago Shortbread Rounds

These are a crunchy, cheesy version of refrigerator cookies: the dough can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped, for up to one month. Slice off as many rounds as you need, bake them as directed, and return the log to the fridge to await another party. Makes about 40 appetizers

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) cool unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces

8 ounces aged Asiago, finely grated

1½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons heavy cream

If you’re working with a food processor: Place the butter and cheese in the processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse until a homogenous if still crumbly mixture forms, about like dry Play-Doh. Add the flour, dry mustard, pepper, and salt; process until crumbly, like a piecrust dough before you add the water. With the machine running, add the cream through the feed tube and process until a dry dough forms—it will not fully cohere at this stage.

If you’re working by hand: Place the butter and cheese in a large bowl and use a pastry cutter or a potato masher to cut the butter into small pieces with the cheese mixed into them. Add the flour, dry mustard, pepper, and salt; continue working the pastry cutter through the ingredients. The mixture will be very stiff, but keep working until it looks like dampened but coarse sand. Stir in the cream with a fork until a dry dough forms.

Turn the dough out onto a clean, dry work surface. Knead until it holds together as a ball. Shape into a fairly compact log about 12 inches long. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper.

Unwrap the log and slice off as many ¼-inch rounds as desired. Place on the prepared baking sheet 2 inches apart. Bake until golden and slightly firm to the touch, about 20 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 2 minutes, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

To store: The wrapped log can be refrigerated for up to 1 month; the baked biscuits, once cooled, can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Variations: Substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano for the Asiago.

Increase the black pepper to as much as 1 tablespoon.

Add caraway seeds, celery seeds, or fennel seeds with the flour.

Add up to 1 teaspoon hot red pepper sauce with the cream.

Gougères

These balls of crunchy, puffed dough are best hot from the oven; plan on baking them off as your guests arrive. Our only sure tip: make these on a dry, clear day. Makes 36 gougères

1 cup water

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

4 large eggs, at room temperature

8 ounces Gruyère or Emmentaler, grated with a microplane or the smallest holes of a box grater

Line a large baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or parchment paper; set aside.

Place the water and butter in a medium saucepan set over medium-high heat. Bring the mixture to a boil, melting the butter and stirring occasionally.

Reduce the heat to medium-low; stir in the flour and salt with a wooden spoon. Keep stirring over the heat until the dough coheres, dries out, and coats the sides of the pan with a milky film, forming a thin crust across its bottom, about 3 minutes or maybe up to 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

Using an electric mixer at medium speed, beat in the eggs, one at a time. (You can also transfer the dough to a stand mixer and beat in the eggs with the paddle attachment.) Once the eggs have been thoroughly incorporated, beat in the cheese.

Drop by heaping teaspoonfuls onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing the mounds 2 inches apart. Alternatively, place the dough in a pastry bag fitted with a #9 plain tip or in a ziplock plastic bag from which you’ve snipped off one corner; pipe onto the baking sheet in 1-inch mounds.

Set the baking sheet aside to let the mounds dry out for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 425°F.

Bake until puffed and golden, about 15 minutes. Cool on the sheet for 2 minutes before removing and serving. To make additional batches, cool the baking sheet for 10 minutes before making extra mounds and letting them dry out (change the parchment paper if it’s browned, spotty, or frizzled) or use a second prepared baking sheet on which you’ve put a second set of mounds as the first set bakes.

Variations: Add 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper with the cheese.

Add 2 teaspoons chopped stemmed thyme or chopped fresh dill with the cheese.

Substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano or hard, aged, white Cheddar for the Gruyère or Emmentaler.

Brie and Mango Quesadillas

Quesadillas often suffer from a certain dullness, so we jazz them up with bolder flavors. Serve with a fiery salsa on the side. Makes 4 servings

2 fresh poblano chiles, Italian frying peppers, or New Mexican green or red chiles

1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and thinly sliced

4 ounces Brie, rind removed, cut into long strips

Four 12-inch flour tortillas

To char the peppers, preheat the broiler. Place the chiles on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil set 4 inches from the heat source. Roast until charred on all sides, turning often with tongs, about 6 minutes. Alternatively, hold the chiles with metal tongs over an open gas flame to char them on all sides.

Place the chiles in a bowl and seal with plastic wrap or place them in a paper bag and seal. Set aside for 10 minutes, then peel off the blackened skins before stemming and seeding the chiles. Cut the chiles into long strips.

Again, preheat the broiler. Divide the chile strips, mango slices, and Brie slices between 2 tortillas. Top each with one of the remaining tortillas; press gently to close.

Place the quesadillas on a large baking sheet and set under the broiler, about 4 inches from the heat, until lightly browned. Turn with a large metal spatula and continue cooking until lightly browned, about 1 minute. Cool for 2 minutes, then cut into wedges before serving.

Parmesan and Pear Quesadillas: Substitute a ripe, cored, thinly sliced pear and shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano for the mango and Brie.

Peach and Goat Cheese Quesadillas: Substitute 2 ripe, pitted, thinly sliced peaches and 4 ounces soft goat cheese for the mango and Brie.

Baked Feta

Use only high-quality feta, sold immersed in brine in plastic containers. Spoon the dip onto crackers or use it as a decadent topping for baked potatoes. Makes 6 servings

1 pound feta, drained

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 sun-dried tomatoes, packed in oil

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Crumble the cheese into a small casserole or other oven-safe crock that holds about 2 cups. Press down to compact the cheese without mashing it. Sprinkle the red pepper flakes over the cheese, then line the tomatoes on top.

Cover tightly with aluminum foil or cover the crock with its tight-fitting lid. Bake until soft and runny, about 20 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes at room temperature before serving.

Variation: Substitute crumbly goat cheese for the feta; or place Brie, Camembert, or cambozola in the freezer for 15 minutes, then slice off the rind and slice the firmed-up cheese into small, irregular pieces.

For Chile con Queso, the traditional Tex-Mex dip, see the sauce for Migas.

Ham and Cheese Phyllo Cups

These look as if they take more time than they actually do. Use a mini muffin tin to form the little bundles of phyllo and filling. They’re good hot or at room temperature. Makes 24 tartlets

6 sheets frozen phyllo dough, thawed in the package in the refrigerator

About 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled, for greasing and brushing

8 ounces prosciutto or smoked deli ham, finely chopped

4 ounces Gruyère, shredded

2 tablespoons mango chutney

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly brush a 24-indentation mini muffin tin or two 12-indentation mini-muffin tins with melted butter, then set aside.

Lay the phyllo sheets out on your work surface and cover them loosely with a layer of plastic wrap and then a clean, dry kitchen towel.

Remove one phyllo sheet from the stack and brush it with melted butter. Fold the sheet in half, shorter side to shorter side. Brush it again with melted butter, then fold it in half, again shorter side to shorter side. Brush with melted butter, then cut it into four 3-inch squares.

Push the squares down into the indentations of the prepared muffin tin so the phyllo is in the tin, but its edges form a frilly edge sticking up out of the top of the indentation. Repeat with the remaining phyllo sheets, filling all the indentations.

Bake for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, mix the prosciutto or ham, cheese, chutney, thyme, salt, and pepper together in a medium bowl.

Remove the pan from the oven, cool for a minute or so, then fill the little shells with the prepared ham mixture. You may have to press the filling into any cups that have puffed up.

Return the pan to the oven and bake until the phyllo is browned and crispy and the filling bubbles slightly, about 8 minutes. Cool the tin on a wire rack for 10 minutes, then unmold the tartlets and either serve or continue cooling on a wire rack to room temperature.

Variations: Use Asiago, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Emmentaler, aged Cheddar, or aged Gouda as the cheese.

Add a few dashes of hot red pepper sauce or Asian chili sauce with the ham.

Use any flavor fruit chutney you prefer, including a homemade variety.

A Cheese Tray

If you do want to put out a selection of cheeses before dinner, remember these tips:

• Have a range of cheeses, hard to soft, strong to mild.

• Remember that stronger flavors overpower those more delicate. Pair a soft goat cheese with an aged Gouda, a blue with hard Parmigiano-Reggiano, or a mild sheep’s milk like Manchego with a slightly more assertive Borenkaas.

• Cheese tastes better at room temperature. Prepare the tray an hour before you serve it, but cover it with plastic wrap so the cheese doesn’t dry out.

• Match the cheese to fruit and berries, but avoid citrus and bananas.

• Have a range of crackers and bread on hand. Also consider chutneys and other savory spreads that will match well with the cheeses you’ve selected.

Fried Bites

Nothing warms up the appetite like a good crunch. And several of these—the fried scallops, for example—would even be fine fare for dinner on their own. These recipes were developed with standard stovetop cookware in mind; use an electric deep-fryer at will (after consulting the manufacturer’s instructions, of course).

Onion Rings with a Buttermilk Crust

Although many people like Vidalias and other sweet onions here, we prefer the stronger-tasting, thick-cut, standard yellow onions. They’re a better match to this tangy batter. Makes 8 servings

4 to 7 cups peanut oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup regular or low-fat buttermilk

¼ cup canola oil

2 large yellow onions, cut into ½-inch slices, then divided into rings

Salt to taste

Pour enough peanut oil into a large saucepan to come about halfway up the sides. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan and set it over medium heat until the thermometer registers 350°F.

Meanwhile, whisk the flour, buttermilk, and canola oil in a large bowl until smooth.

Dip a few onion rings in the batter, shake off the excess, then slip them into the hot oil. Adjust the heat so the oil stays a constant 350°F. Fry until golden, turning once or twice with a metal meat fork or a metal spoon, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack with a slotted spoon, sprinkle with a little salt, and continue frying more rings.

Garnishes: ketchup, malt vinegar, Mayonnaise, or Sesame Dipping Sauce.

Variations: Omit the onions and cut bell peppers into ½-inch-thick rings, removing the seeds and white inner membranes. Dip these rings in the batter and fry until crispy, about 3 minutes, turning once or twice.

This tangy batter is also excellent on shrimp. Lightly dip peeled, deveined medium shrimp into the batter, and fry until crispy, about 4 minutes, turning once or twice. It’s also good on chicken wings or drumsticks—coat with flour, dip in the batter, and fry until crispy, about 10 minutes, turning once or twice.

Mix and Match

In truth, most of these crusts—with the exception of the cornmeal crust on the Fried Cheese with a Spiced Crust and the ginger crust on the Fried Calamari—are interchangeable. We offer suggestions after some recipes, but you can experiment, too.

Just remember this: foods must be fried quickly once they’re coated. The flour’s glutens can turn sticky, the coating can slip off, and the food itself can interact in strange (and even unhealthy) ways with the coating.

Fried Olives in a Bread-Crumb Crust

A coating of plain bread crumbs makes simple olives a fabulous cocktail snack. Although pitted olives are not our first choice in most cases, they make these appetizers easy, one-bite wonders. Makes 8 appetizer servings

4 to 5 cups canola oil

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 large egg

2 tablespoons milk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 cups plain dried bread crumbs

24 large pitted green olives

Pour the canola oil into a large saucepan until it comes about a third of the way up the sides. Set the pan over medium heat and clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan. Heat until the temperature registers 350°F.

Meanwhile, place the flour in one shallow bowl or soup plate. Beat the egg and milk in a small bowl with a fork until foamy. Place the bread crumbs in a third bowl or plate.

Roll an olive in the flour, just to coat it lightly, then dip it in the egg mixture. Allow the excess to drip back off, then roll it in the bread crumbs just before slipping it into the hot oil. Repeat with about a third of the olives. Fry until lightly brown, about 2 minutes, turning once or twice with a slotted metal spoon. Transfer to a fine-mesh wire rack and continue making more fried olives. Serve warm.

Variations: Substitute any stuffed pitted green olive you like—such as those stuffed with garlic, pimientos, almonds, or anchovies.

Fried Cheese with a Spiced Crust

Cheese threatens to liquefy under the slightest heat, so cheese strips need a thin dusting of flour before they’re battered and fried: the flour barrier seals in the gooey goodness. Panfrying these sticks lets the coating get deeply browned and extra crunchy. Makes 6 servings (or 12 pieces)

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 large eggs

2 cups plain dried bread crumbs

1 tablespoon paprika

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon dried thyme

½ teaspoon salt, plus additional to taste

¼ teaspoon cayenne

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ pound frozen mozzarella, Jarlsberg, Cheddar, Emmentaler, or Gouda, cut into thin spears about 3 inches long, 1 inch wide, and ½ inch thick (see Note)

Place the flour in a shallow soup bowl and set it on your work surface, the first in a lineup. Crack the eggs in a second soup bowl; lightly beat them with a fork. Finally, mix the bread crumbs, paprika, onion powder, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and the cayenne in a third soup plate.

Dip all the cheese sticks in the flour, just enough to give them a light coating. Set aside on a wire rack.

Heat a skillet over medium heat, then add the olive oil. Dip a coated cheese stick in the eggs, let the excess drip off, then roll it in the bread-crumb mixture to coat lightly. Slip it into the skillet, then quickly make a few more coated cheese sticks and get them into the skillet.

Fry undisturbed until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Watch carefully so the sticks don’t burn, lowering the heat if they brown too quickly. Flip and continue cooking until browned on both sides, about 2 more minutes. Transfer to a wire rack, then continue making more cheese sticks. Season with additional salt, if desired, and serve at once.

Note: Freezing helps cheese hold its shape as you cut and coat it. Place any of these cheeses in the freezer for about 20 minutes before you slice them.

Variations: You can also use soft cheeses like Brie, Camembert, or cambozola. Freeze for 1 hour, then remove the rind and cut the firmed-up cheese into spears as indicated. Work quickly so they don’t defrost before they get into the hot oil.

This crust is also good on zucchini strips or summer squash rounds. Cut either into strips about the same size as the cheese strips before coating, dredging, and frying.

The Art of Frying

Deep-frying is dehydration: all those pops and splatters are moisture being boiled off by the hot oil, leaving food crisp. But the process is unpredictable. Anyone who’s forgotten to water a garden for a few days knows exactly how relentless yet imprecise the trouble can be. That’s why most deep-fried things are coated: the batter dehydrates (and gets crunchy) while protecting the food within.

Remember these tips:

• Keep the oil’s temperature constant. With electric deep-fryers, this is no trick, since the thermostat regulates the heat. With a saucepan, monitor the temperature with a deep-frying thermometer clipped to the inside of the pan. The whole process is a matter of balance: adjust the heat so the oil’s temperature remains constant.

• Don’t crowd the pan. If you put too many things in at once, the oil’s temperature will drop and the crust won’t dehydrate. Instead, it will absorb oil without displacing moisture and end up gummy.

• Use a wire rack to drain food once it comes out of the oil. A deep-fried tidbit sitting on a paper towel will be a soggy deep-fried tidbit sitting on a wet paper towel. A fine-weave wire rack is preferable: the food drains without sinking through the slats.

Oil for Frying

Our preference is usually for peanut oil with its fairly high smoke point (that is, the point at which oil starts to volatilize and can catch fire); it also imparts a faint, aromatic taste that doesn’t compete with other flavors. Asian peanut oils are not refined like American bottlings; they have a distinct taste and a much lower smoke point—and so are not recommended here. Rapeseed, grape seed, canola, and safflower oil would also be good choices.

Fried Calamari with a Ginger Crust

A thick batter ruins calamari; a better choice is a light, crunchy crust made from ground gingersnaps. The oil here is slightly hotter to get the calamari cooked quickly; do not let the rings brown deeply or they will be tough. Makes 6 servings

4 to 7 cups peanut oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ cup yellow cornmeal

½ cup gingersnap cookies, finely ground to a powder in a food processor or in a sealed plastic bag with the bottom of a heavy saucepan

1 pound calamari, cleaned and cut into ¼-inch rings (see Note)

Salt to taste

Add enough peanut oil to come about halfway up the sides of a large saucepan. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan and set it over medium-high heat until the temperature registers 375°F.

Meanwhile, mix the flour, cornmeal, and ground gingersnaps in a small bowl. Place the calamari rings in a large colander set in the sink, then shake the flour mixture over them. Shake the colander repeatedly until some of the flour mixture has adhered to the rings and the excess has been shaken off.

Slip about a quarter of the coated rings into the hot oil and fry until golden blond, about 2 minutes, turning once or twice with a slotted spoon. Transfer to a wire rack and season lightly with salt. Continue making more of the coated rings, working in batches.

Garnishes: Classic Cocktail Sauce, Simple Asian Dipping Sauce, or Wasabi Mayonnaise.

Note: What stops most home cooks from making this restaurant favorite is the problem of cleaning the squid. Fortunately, many markets sell already prepared calamari rings; if not, most fishmongers will do the cleaning for you.

If you want to tackle it, first remember that there’s a spiny quill inside the squid’s body. Armed with that knowledge and working over the sink (the ink sac may rupture), run your finger into the tubelike body and pull everything out (but not off), including that sharp quill. Slice off the tentacles just below the eyes, removing the innards as well. Slice the tentacles into a little “bouquet” if you want to fry them and discard everything else from inside as well as the “hard beak.” Rinse the body with water, then pull the gray, blue, or mottled laminate-like sheath off the outside of the body. If it will not come free, scrape it off with a sharp paring knife. Finally, cut the body into ¼-inch-wide rings.

Fried Scallops with a Beer-Batter Crust

Frothy beer gives these scallops a light coating, yeasty and a little salty. Makes 8 appetizer servings or 4 main-course servings

4 to 7 cups peanut oil

1¼ cups all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking powder

About 2 teaspoons salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup beer, at room temperature but not flat

2 pounds bay or diver scallops, trimmed, each cut in half into two disks

Pour enough oil into a large saucepan so that it comes halfway up the sides. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan and place the pan over medium heat. Heat to 350°F.

Meanwhile, whisk 1 cup flour, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper in a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the egg and beer until smooth.

Place the halved scallops in a sieve set in the sink; dust the remaining ¼ cup flour over them. Shake the sieve until they are lightly coated but the excess flour has fallen off.

Dip a coated scallop into the prepared batter; gently slide it into the hot oil. Repeat with the remaining scallop halves, dipping and frying only as many as will fit in the pan in one layer without crowding. Fry until golden, 2 to 3 minutes, turning once or twice with metal tongs. Transfer to a wire rack. While they’re hot, sprinkle with salt, as desired. Continue making more fried scallops with the remaining batter.

Garnishes: Basic Pizza Sauce, jarred pizza sauce, or Dijon mustard.

Variations: You can use this classic batter for just about any flour-coated, fried tidbit: seeded bell pepper strips, onion rings, broccoli florets, cauliflower florets, peeled and deveined shrimp, or chicken drumlets. You can also fry bone-in chicken pieces with this batter; they will take up to 20 minutes to be fully cooked.

If you want to make a meal out of these fried wonders, consider pairing them with a green salad dressed with a classic vinaigrette. They’re also nice alongside simple sides like sliced tomatoes with salt and rice vinegar or sliced cucumbers with salt and sesame oil. For the most part, avoid grilled sides; the smoky taste easily overpowers the delicate, fried coatings. For a wintry treat, try floating fried bits in a Creamy Vegetable Soup.

Fried Oysters with a Panko Crust

Panko bread crumbs, a Japanese specialty, give these briny oysters an exceptionally lacy coating. Makes 8 appetizer servings or 4 main-course servings

4 to 7 cups peanut oil

1 tablespoon paprika

1 teaspoon onion powder

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup regular or low-fat buttermilk

24 large shucked oysters

2 cups panko bread crumbs

1 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

Pour enough peanut oil into a large saucepan to come about halfway up the sides. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan, set it over medium-high heat, and heat until the temperature registers 375°F.

Meanwhile, whisk the paprika, onion powder, and pepper into the buttermilk in a large bowl. Add the oysters, stir gently, and set aside.

Place the bread crumbs on a large plate; pick up an oyster and dredge it in the bread crumbs, coating thoroughly. Slip it into the oil and repeat with about 5 more of the oysters. Fry until lightly brown, about 2 minutes, turning once or twice with a metal slotted spoon. Transfer to a wire rack, sprinkle with salt to taste, and continue making more fried oysters, working in batches. Season with salt before serving.

Garnishes: Wasabi Mayonnaise or Classic Cocktail Sauce, or Simple Asian Dipping Sauce.

Vegetable Tempura

For the laciest tempura, use finely crushed ice in the batter: the crystals will explode when they hit the very hot oil. Rice flour is a very low-gluten flour made from ground rice; look for it in the Asian food section of many supermarkets or at health food stores. Makes 6 to 8 appetizer servings

4 to 7 cups vegetable oil

½ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup rice flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 large egg white, beaten until frothy

½ cup water

½ cup pulverized ice (see Note)

2 pounds mixed vegetables, such as baby carrots, seeded bell peppers, zucchini, or scallions, cut into long, thin strips

Salt to taste

Pour enough vegetable oil into a large saucepan that it comes about halfway up the sides. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan and place the pan over medium heat. Heat the oil to 375°F.

Whisk the all-purpose flour, rice flour, and baking powder in a large mixing bowl. Whisk in the egg white until combined, then whisk in the water and ice. Tiny ice particles should be left in the batter, but no chunks of ice.

Dip a vegetable strip into the batter, then slip it into the hot oil. Stand back—the batter will pop. Dip and fry only as many vegetable strips as will fit into the pan without crowding. Fry until crisp and blond, not browned, about 2 minutes; avoid turning the tempura more than once so as not to dislodge the coating. Remove with a slotted metal spoon and drain on a fine-mesh wire rack. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Repeat with the remaining vegetables, working in batches.

Garnishes: Simple Asian Dipping Sauce (below), Sesame Dipping Sauce (below), plain soy sauce, or soy sauce mixed with a little prepared wasabi paste.

Note: To pulverize ice, seal it in a plastic bag and go at it with the bottom of a heavy saucepan or a meat mallet. Drain off any excess water that develops.

Variation: Use this same batter to make shrimp, scallop, or fish fillet tempura. Fry until lacy and crisp, about 3 minutes.

Vinegary Dips for Fried Things

While flavored mayonnaises, Aïoli, or Classic Cocktail Sauce are traditional condiments for fried tidbits, we like the tangy zip of vinegary sauces. For any of these, whisk the ingredients in a small bowl.

Simple Asian Dipping Sauce

¼ cup soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

Sesame Dipping Sauce

3 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Malty Sauce

1/³ cup malt vinegar

1½ teaspoons prepared horseradish

Mignonette

½ cup white wine or champagne vinegar

2 small shallots, minced

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

Elegant Starters

These ride the line between a starter and a meal; just add a tossed salad or some side veggies and you can call many of them dinner. Many can also be plated as a more formal first course.

Gravlax

A Swedish specialty, gravlax is cured salmon. Buy only fresh salmon, not previously frozen fillets. Serve it with any or all of these: sliced pumpernickel bread, table crackers, cornichons or small dill pickles, drained capers, chopped hard-cooked egg yolks, chopped hard-cooked egg whites, chopped red onion, sour cream, crème fraîche, or Dijon mustard mixed with chopped herbs. Makes about 12 small servings

One 2-pound salmon fillet, skinned (see Note)

¼ cup kosher salt

3 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups dill fronds, cut into 2-inch sections

Gently run your hand over the salmon’s flesh to ensure there are no bones remaining. Be careful—the bones can pierce your skin. Should you find any, remove them with a sterilized pair of tweezers.

Mix the salt, sugar, and pepper together in a small bowl. Rub this mixture into both sides of the fillet, taking care to get the seasonings into the flesh without mashing or tearing it.

Place half the dill fronds in a glass 13 × 9-inch baking dish, then lay the fillet on top. Cover with the remaining fronds, pushing them down so they adhere to the flesh. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 2 days.

Remove the dill and wipe off any salt mixture adhering to the fillet. Place it on a cutting board or a wooden serving tray. Slice into paper-thin pieces with a long, thin knife, angling the blade through the flesh for slightly wider pieces.

Note: Your fishmonger can skin the salmon for you. If you’d like to do it yourself, place the fillet skin side down on a large cutting board. Pick up the narrowest tip of the fillet and run a long, thin, very sharp slicing knife between the flesh and the skin, angling the blade down toward the skin without cutting through to the cutting board. Draw the blade back and forth, cutting between the flesh and skin. Once you have some of the skin detached, hold the loose skin down against the cutting board with one hand and continue to work the knife between the flesh and skin, thereby taking the flesh off the skin (rather than sawing the skin off the flesh). You may have to stop several times and reposition the blade; keep the tension constant and firm on the loosened skin.

Variations: In all of these, omit the dill.

Lightly toast 2 tablespoons cumin seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat until aromatic, about 2 minutes. Cool completely, then place half of these cumin seeds in the baking dish, top with the rubbed salmon, then press the remaining cumin seeds gently into the flesh.

Reduce the sugar to 1½ tablespoons. Add 2 teaspoons wasabi powder and 2 teaspoons ground ginger with the remaining sugar.

Substitute 1 cup packed, shredded sage, tarragon, or basil leaves for the dill fronds.

Add 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon to the salt and sugar mixture.

Add 2 teaspoons crushed juniper berries to the salt and sugar mixture.

Add 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary to the salt and sugar mixture.

Ten Things to Do with Gravlax

Roll thinly sliced gravlax in flour tortillas that have been spread with softened cream cheese and sprinkled with chopped parsley or dill.

Add chopped gravlax to a green salad, preferably one with a creamy vinaigrette

Fold chopped gravlax into scrambled eggs just before you remove them from the pan.

Place thinly sliced gravlax on purchased blinis, crumpets, or toasted English muffins, then top with crème fraîche and caviar.

Make appetizer sandwiches by placing thinly sliced gravlax in between pumpernickel slices that have been spread with unsalted butter; cut into quarters.

Wrap thinly sliced gravlax around pickled okra spears, pickled green beans, or cornichons.

Spread mayonnaise on toast, top with thinly sliced gravlax and shredded Cheddar—broil until the cheese melts.

Lay thin slices of gravlax over deviled eggs.

Thinly slice the gravlax, roll the slices into balls, and pierce with bamboo skewers; serve with your favorite mayonnaise salad dressing as a dip.

Serve thinly sliced gravlax on top of Lentil-Nut Patties, then top with sour cream or crème fraîche.

Squid Salad with Saffron, Chickpeas, and Sherry Vinegar

This light salad is refreshing and tart, a good match for sweet cocktails or beer. Makes 4 to 6 servings

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

¼ teaspoon saffron, crumbled

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 pound cleaned squid, cut into thin rings and the tentacles quartered

¾ cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1 jarred whole roasted red bell pepper or pimiento, sliced into thin strips

1 teaspoon chopped oregano leaves or ½ teaspoon dried oregano

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mix the vinegar and saffron in a small bowl or teacup; set aside for 10 minutes.

Place the olive oil and garlic in a large skillet, then set it over low heat. Cook, stirring often, until the garlic frizzles at the edges, about 2 minutes.

Raise the heat to medium and stir in the squid. Cook, stirring constantly, for 30 seconds.

Add the vinegar and saffron; cook, tossing all the while, until the squid is opaque and a little firm but not hard, about 1 minute.

Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the chickpeas, red bell pepper or pimiento, oregano, salt, and pepper. Mix well; then pour into a large, nonreactive bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

Variations: Substitute thyme, rosemary, or marjoram for the oregano. Also add up to ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes with the chickpeas.

Tuna Tartare on Gaufrettes

Tartare is usually a raw-beef preparation, but tuna has a similar texture and a milder flavor. Gaufrettes are waffle-cut potato chips. You’ll need a mandoline—or you can simplify the whole process, forgo making your own Gaufrettes, and use purchased, wavy- or waffle-cut potato chips. Makes 8 appetizer servings or 4 lunch servings

¼ cup canola oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon ginger juice

1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds

1 teaspoon finely diced seeded fresh jalapeño chile

1 small scallion, minced

1½ pounds sushi-quality tuna

¼ cup chopped cilantro leaves

1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

Gaufrettes (recipe follows)

Mix the canola oil, lemon juice, ginger juice, sesame seeds, jalapeño, and scallion in a small bowl; set aside for 10 minutes.

Trim off any tough white nerve fibers in the tuna, then slice it into ¼-inch strips. Cut each of these strips into ¼-inch dice. Draw the knife through the fish, rather than sawing.

Gather the tuna pieces together—be careful, they are fragile and can turn to mush quickly—and place in a large bowl. Stir in the oil mixture and the cilantro, salt, and pepper. To serve, mound the Tuna Tartare on a serving platter or onto individual plates, and serve with the Gaufrettes on the side as a scoop to pick up the tuna.

Variations: Add 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest to the oil dressing.

Add 1 teaspoon wasabi powder to the oil dressing.

Add 1 garlic clove, pressed through a garlic press, to the oil dressing.

Substitute lime juice for the lemon juice.

Gaufrettes

Makes about 50 waffle-cut potato chips

2 to 3 large Russet potatoes, peeled, cut in half the short way, and soaked in cool water for 15 minutes

4 to 6 cups peanut oil

Salt to taste

Fit a mandoline with the waffle blade. Grip a potato half with the food guard and run the cut side of the potato over the blade. Rotate 90 degrees and run it again over the blade. A waffle-cut slice should fall out of the bottom of the machine. Check the slice to make sure the holes are visible and that the slice holds together when picked up—otherwise, adjust the blade. Continue making more slices, rotating the potato and grip by 90 degrees after each cut. Lay the slices on paper towels.

Pour the peanut oil into a large saucepan until it comes about halfway up the sides, clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan, and set over medium-high heat. Bring the oil to 375°F.

Slip several slices into the oil; fry until lightly browned, about 2 minutes, turning once or twice. Adjust the heat so the oil’s temperature remains constant. Transfer the gaufrettes to a fine-mesh wire rack and continue frying more. Season with salt, as desired, within seconds of their coming out of the oil. (The gaufrettes can be made in advance; once cooled, store them in a sealed container at room temperature for up to 1 day.)

Seared Foie Gras with Apricot Relish

This fatty, creamy goose or duck liver may have fancy restaurant overtones, but nothing could be easier to fix—with a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet and good ventilation. Look for smooth, pinkish, compact, small lobes. Makes 8 servings

One 2-pound lobe foie gras, well chilled

Apricot Relish (recipe follows)

Run very hot water over a sharp chef’s knife until the blade is quite hot. Slice the foie gras into ¾-inch-thick slices, making 2 or 3 slices before reheating the knife under hot water. Place the slices on a platter, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 24 hours.

Heat a large, well-seasoned cast-iron skillet over high heat until smoking, about 5 minutes. Slip several strips of foie gras into the skillet; keep the others in the refrigerator. Cook until browned and crisp on the outside (but soft to the touch), no more than 1 minute. Turn with a metal spatula and cook until browned, about 1 additional minute. The strips will have rendered a great deal of fat. Transfer to serving plates, pour off the fat in the pan, and continue frying more. Serve with the Apricot Relish.

Variations: Forgo the Apricot Relish and drizzle the seared strips of foie gras with aged, syrupy balsamic vinegar or pomegranate molasses. Or serve the seared foie gras over pineapple rounds that have been coated with canola oil and then grilled over high heat until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, turning once—or with the Grilled Pineapple Salsa.

Apricot Relish Makes about 3 cups

1 medium onion, chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

2 cups chopped pitted fresh apricots (8 to 10 whole apricots)

1 cup packed light brown sugar

½ cup cider vinegar

¼ cup dried cranberries, chopped

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

½ tablespoon mustard seeds

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon salt

Place the onion, garlic, apricots, brown sugar, cider vinegar, dried cranberries, lemon juice, ginger, mustard seeds, red pepper flakes, cinnamon, and salt in a medium saucepan set over medium heat. Stir until the mixture comes to a simmer, then reduce the heat and simmer slowly until thickened, about 40 minutes. Cover and set aside off the heat while you prepare the foie gras—or cool somewhat, transfer to a plastic container, cover, and refrigerate for up to 3 days; bring back to room temperature before serving.

Savory Tarts

Call it make-ahead elegance: a walnut crust, prebaked in a 10-inch tart pan, and filled with a savory filling. Makes 8 servings (one 10-inch tart)

½ cup toasted walnut halves

1 cup all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting and rolling

½ teaspoon salt

½ stick (4 tablespoons) cold unsalted butter, cut into small chunks

3 to 4 tablespoons very cold water

One of the five fillings (recipes follow)

First make the crust. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F.

Grind the walnuts in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade until coarsely ground—not powdered but also in no way chunky. Add the flour and salt; pulse once or twice to combine.

Drop in the butter and pulse until incorporated and cut into small pieces. Add the water and pulse until a dough forms.

Lay a piece of wax paper on the work surface and lightly dust it with flour. Turn the dough out onto it; dust the dough lightly with flour. Roll it until 11 inches in diameter and about ¼ inch thick—you can tell if it’s the right circumference by holding the 10-inch tart pan over it and checking that it’s about 1 inch larger than the circumference of the pan.

Gently lift the wax paper and crust off the work surface, invert it over a 10-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, and press the crust down into the pan. Peel off the wax paper and continue pressing the crust into the pan, pushing it up the sides about 1 inch and making sure it gets into any fluted edges. Prick the crust many times across the bottom and sides with a fork.

Bake until lightly browned and firm to the touch, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and cool at least 30 minutes or up to 4 hours. (Once baked and cooled, the crust can be stored, covered, at room temperature for up to 24 hours.)

Next, prepare one of these five fillings in the tart shell:

Stilton, Peaches, and Basil

Arrange 3 peaches, pitted and thinly sliced, across the bottom of the crust. Lay 6 basil leaves over the slices, then sprinkle with 3 ounces crumbled Stilton.

Crab and Pesto

Sprinkle 15 ounces lump crabmeat, picked over for shell and cartilage, across the tart crust. Dot with ½ cup Pecan Pesto or Sage Pesto in 1-tablespoon increments, spreading them a bit with a rubber spatula.

Pears and Parmesan

Arrange 2 ripe pears, cored and thinly sliced, across the crust, then top with 3 ounces thinly shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano. Drizzle 1 tablespoon honey over the cheese.

Plums and Asiago

Brush 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard over the tart bottom with a pastry brush. Top with 4 ripe plums, seeded and thinly sliced. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons pine nuts over the tart, then top with 2 ounces grated Asiago.

Caramelized Onions and Bacon

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet set over low heat. Add 2 medium onions, thinly sliced, and 1 tablespoon caraway or fennel seeds. Reduce the heat to very low and cook, stirring frequently, until golden and soft, about 30 minutes. Do not let the onions brown. At the same time, fry 4 strips bacon in a nonstick skillet set over medium heat until crispy, about 5 minutes, turning two or three times. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, then crumble into small bits. Mix the crumbled bacon into the onions when they’re finished cooking. Spoon this mixture into the tart shell.

Finally, bake the tart. Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F.

Bake the filled tart until the cheese melts and/ or the filling starts to bubble, about 12 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for at least 10 minutes or up to 3 hours before slipping the tart out of its removable ring to slice and serve.

One Crust, Three Classics:
Focaccia, Pissaladière,
and Pizza

Focaccia is an Italian flatbread, topped simply with aromatics and salt. Pissaladière is a thin-crust pizza from Nice, topped with slow-cooked onions, anchovies, and olives. And pizza? It’s high time it got put in its rightful place: as an appetizer, served with a summery fruit punch or an aperitif. Makes 12 appetizer servings or 6 main-course servings; makes one large 17 × 11-inch crust

The Crust

1¼ cups warm water (between 105°F and 115°F)

½ teaspoon sugar

½ ounce (2 standard packages or 5 teaspoons) active dry yeast

1/₃ cup olive oil, plus additional for greasing the bowl

1 teaspoon salt

4 cups or more all-purpose flour

Pour the water into the bowl of a stand mixer or into a large bowl, add the sugar, and sprinkle the yeast over the top. Set aside for 5 minutes until bubbling. (If the yeast does not get fizzy, start over.) Stir in the oil and salt.

If you’re using a stand mixer: Attach the bowl, snap on the dough hook, and begin adding the flour in ½-cup increments, mixing at medium speed all the while, until a pliable but firm dough forms, not sticky but soft and smooth. You may use a little more than 4 cups of flour, depending on the day’s humidity and the flour’s glutens. Continue kneading at medium speed for 10 minutes, adding splashes of flour if the dough starts to stick or crawl up the hook. Don’t use all the flour unless you need to—you simply want a smooth dough that’s not tacky or gummy.

If you’re working by hand: Stir about 3 cups of the flour into the yeast mixture with a wooden spoon. Once the dough begins to form and becomes difficult to stir, turn it out onto a clean, floured work surface and begin kneading in more flour in small increments until a pliable, firm dough forms; continue dusting the work surface and your hands with flour to prevent sticking. Knead for 10 minutes, grinding the heel of one hand into the dough while pulling it with the fingers of the other, until the dough is smooth, somewhat elastic, and quite soft.

Grease a large bowl with some olive oil dabbed on a paper towel. Gather the dough into a ball, place it in the bowl, and turn it over so that it’s lightly coated with oil. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free place until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

Once the dough has doubled in bulk, turn it into one of the three classics.

1. Focaccia

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 tablespoons olive oil, plus additional for greasing the pan

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 tablespoon chopped rosemary leaves or 2 teaspoons crushed dried rosemary

1 to 2 teaspoons coarse-grained salt

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a 17 × 11-inch lipped baking pan.

Punch the dough down, then turn it into the prepared pan. Press it evenly to the corners, stretching and pulling as necessary. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside again in a warm, dry place to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour. Use your fingers to dimple the top of the dough by pressing into it without pressing all the way through to the pan.

Remove the plastic wrap.

Paint the top of the dough with the tomato paste, using a pastry brush or the back of a small flatware spoon dipped in a little water. Drizzle the top of the dough with the olive oil, then sprinkle on the garlic, rosemary, and salt.

Bake until puffed, golden, and brown, about 25 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes before cutting and serving, or cool completely and serve at room temperature. bay leaf, stir well, cover, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice. Do not let the onions brown; they should simply soften and give off quite a bit of liquid.

2. Pissaladière

¼ cup olive oil, plus additional for greasing the pan

3 large onions, sliced into thin rings

1 bay leaf

1 tablespoon stemmed thyme

7 ounces anchovy fillets packed in olive oil, drained and rinsed

24 pitted black olives, halved

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Punch the dough down and turn it over in the bowl, cover again with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm, draft-free place a second time until doubled in bulk, about 1 more hour.

Meanwhile, place the olive oil in a large skillet and set it over very low heat. Add the onions and

Uncover the skillet and continue cooking very slowly until the onions are golden and sugary sweet, about 40 minutes. If the onions start to brown, reduce the heat even further or remove the pan from the heat for a few minutes until it cools down a bit.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a 17 × 11-inch lipped baking sheet.

Once the dough has risen a second time, punch it down and turn it out onto the prepared baking sheet. Press it evenly to the corners, stretching and pulling as necessary.

Remove and discard the bay leaf from the onions; stir in the thyme. Spread the onions evenly across the dough, then make a grid or diagonal pattern across them with the anchovy fillets, laying them tip to tail. Dot the olives in a decorative pattern across the dough, then sprinkle on some pepper.

Bake until puffed and golden, about 20 minutes. Cool in the pan for 5 minutes before cutting and serving.

Variations: Add ¼ teaspoon ground cloves to the onions with the thyme.

Dot 1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed, over the onions with the olives.

Sprinkle the onions with 1 teaspoon coarse-grained salt before adding the anchovies.

Lightly paint the crust with Dijon mustard before spreading on the onions.

Grate Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top the moment it comes out of the oven.

3. Pizza

2 cups Basic Pizza Sauce, jarred pizza sauce, Sun-Dried Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pesto, or Sage Pesto

1 pound mozzarella, shredded

Punch the dough down and turn it over in the bowl, cover again loosely with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel, and set aside in a warm, draft-free place a second time until doubled in bulk, about 1 more hour.

As the dough finishes rising, position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450°F. Lightly oil a 17 × 11-inch lipped baking sheet.

Once the dough has risen a second time, punch it down and turn it out onto the prepared baking sheet. Press it evenly to the corners, stretching and pulling as necessary. Spread the pizza sauce or pesto across the dough, then sprinkle on the cheese.

Bake until golden and gooey, about 20 minutes. Cool for 5 minutes before cutting.

Other Pizza Toppings: Before you add the cheese, you can also sprinkle any of these over the pizza:

8 ounces pepperoni, thinly sliced

8 ounces Italian sausage meat, fried with 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium heat until browned, about 3 minutes

8 ounces sliced mushrooms, cooked with 2 teaspoons olive oil in a skillet over medium heat until they give off their liquid and it evaporates, about 5 minutes

8 canned artichoke hearts, drained and cut into quarters

2 red or green bell peppers, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced

1 medium onion, thinly sliced

3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced

Pâtés

Although the name “pâté” may call up images of a fussy, ’50s appetizer, not all pâtés are created equal—or are equally hard to create. Here are five that run the gamut from a chunky French pâté to a creamy vegetarian chopped liver.

Classic Country Pâté

This is a traditional pâté with an important change: to protect the mélange from the heat, we line the pan with pancetta, rather than caul fat or butter. Beef liver is too strong and will overpower the flavors, so search out calf’s liver or pork liver at meat counters. Serve with minced hard-cooked eggs, Dijon mustard, cornichons or other small pickles, drained capers or larger caper berries, as well as toasted baguette rounds, melba toast, or plain crackers. Makes about 20 servings

½ pound pancetta, sliced paper thin

¼ pound fatback or pork fat

1 pound ground pork

¾ pound ground veal (see Note)

½ pound calf’s or pork liver, finely

chopped

1 large shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

2 large egg yolks

2/₃ cup Cognac or brandy

2 teaspoons finely grated orange zest

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme or ½ teaspoon

dried thyme

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

4 bay leaves

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375°F. Line the bottom and sides of a 6-cup pâté pan or a 9 × 5 × 3-inch loaf pan with the pancetta slices.

Grind the fatback or pork fat through a meat grinder, or puree it with 1 tablespoon water in a food processor fitted with the chopping blade until smooth, scraping down the sides of the canister as necessary.

Transfer the ground fatback or pork fat to a large bowl. Gently stir in the ground pork, ground veal, liver, shallot, garlic, egg yolks, Cognac or brandy, orange zest, salt, thyme, nutmeg, allspice, pepper, and cloves, taking care not to break up the meat’s fibers.

Spoon into the prepared pan. Smooth the top, then lay the bay leaves across it in a decorative pattern. Cover tightly with aluminum foil. Place in a larger baking pan and fill with very hot tap water until it comes halfway up the outside of the pâté or loaf pan.

Bake until an instant-read meat thermometer inserted into the middle of the pâté registers 160°F, 1½ to 2 hours. Take the pan out of the water bath and carefully drain off any fat. Cover again with foil, then weight it down with cans or bricks, laying them right on the covered pâté. Refrigerate for at least 1 day, preferably 2 days, or up to 4 days. Remove the weights, foil, and bay leaves to serve. If you’ve baked the terrine in a traditional pan, serve it directly from there; if not, then invert it onto a cutting board, shake vigorously, and wipe with hot, damp paper towels to release the mold, then reinvert it onto a serving plate.

Note: If you can’t find ground veal, use an additional ½ pound ground pork and ¼ pound ground beef, preferably ground chuck.

Variations: Substitute a hearty red wine such as a Zinfandel or Merlot for the Cognac.

Substitute 2 teaspoons chopped tarragon leaves for the thyme; omit the nutmeg and allspice.

Mousse Pâté

This velvety pâté begs for champagne. It’s best made with mild duck livers, but chicken livers are a fine stand-in. Serve with toasted Italian bread or sesame crackers and with pickled onions, pickled green beans, or thinly sliced red onions. You can also sprinkle a few drops of aged balsamic vinegar on each serving. Makes 20 servings

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 medium shallots, minced

2 pounds duck or chicken livers

¾ cup Cognac or brandy

2 teaspoons unflavored powdered gelatin

¼ cup dry white wine

Vegetable or canola oil, for greasing the pan

2/₃ cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground allspice

½ teaspoon ground mace

½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper,

preferably white pepper

Melt the butter in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the livers and sauté until brown, stirring frequently, about 5 minutes.

Add the Cognac or brandy and bring the mixture to a simmer, scraping up any browned bits on the bottom of the skillet. (Should the alcohol ignite, cover the skillet immediately and remove it from the heat for 20 seconds, or until the fire is out.) Cook, stirring often, until the Cognac has reduced to a glaze and the livers are cooked through, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, sprinkle the gelatin over the wine in a small bowl and set aside to soften for 5 minutes. Lightly oil a 1-quart loaf pan or a 1-quart terrine.

Stir the cream and the softened gelatin mixture into the skillet. Reduce the heat to very low and stir just until the gelatin dissolves, about 5 seconds. Do not let the sauce return to a boil. Remove the skillet from the heat and stir in the salt, allspice, mace, and pepper.

Pour the entire contents of the pan into a large food processor fitted with a chopping blade (work in batches if you need to). Process until silky, then pour and smooth into the prepared loaf pan or terrine.

Place in the refrigerator to cool, then cover with plastic wrap and continue chilling until set, at least 6 hours or overnight. To serve, turn the pan or terrine upside down onto a serving platter and unmold the terrine. You may need to wipe the outside of the mold with paper towels doused in hot water to loosen the pâté.

Variations: Substitute dry vermouth for the wine.

Substitute ground cinnamon for the allspice.

Substitute grated nutmeg for the mace.

Add 2 minced garlic cloves with the shallots.

Three-Layer Vegetable Pâté

Here’s a creamy, layered, vegetarian pâté, a silkier version of those sold at deli counters. Makes about 16 servings

12 tablespoons (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, cut into chunks, plus additional for greasing the pan

3 large onions, chopped

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme

½ teaspoon grated nutmeg

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 large carrots, peeled and thinly sliced into rings (about 1½ cups)

2 cups packed broccoli florets

1 tablespoon tomato paste, preferably reduced-sodium tomato paste

3 large eggs plus 3 large egg yolks

1²/₃ cups canned white beans, drained and rinsed

Melt the butter in a large skillet set over medium-low heat. Add the onions, stir well, and reduce the heat to very low. Cook, stirring frequently, until golden and very soft, about 20 minutes; do not let the onions brown—keep the heat very low and stir often.

Add the garlic and continue cooking for 5 minutes, then stir in the thyme, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Set the mixture aside for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the sliced carrots in a vegetable steamer set over simmering water. Cover and steam until quite soft, about 8 minutes. Place the carrots in the bowl of a food processor or the canister of a large blender.

Fill the steamer basket with the broccoli florets (add more water to the pan, if necessary).

Cover and steam until very soft, about 6 minutes. Drain the florets in a colander set in the sink, then rinse with cool water to spike the bright green color.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Butter a 9 × 5 × 3-inch loaf pan and set it aside.

Pour a third of the onion mixture in the skillet into the food processor or blender canister with the carrots. Add the tomato paste, 1 egg, and 1 egg yolk. Process or blend until smooth.

Pour this carrot mixture into the prepared loaf pan, smoothing it to the sides and creating as flat a surface as possible with a rubber spatula. Clean and dry the food processor or blender canister.

Place the white beans in the food processor or blender canister, then add half the remaining onion mixture along with 1 egg and 1 egg yolk. Process or blend until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl or canister as necessary.

Gently spoon this mixture evenly over the top of the carrot mixture. Smooth it flat, then gently rap the pan against your work surface to release any trapped bubbles and to condense the mixture slightly. Clean and dry the food processor or blender canister.

Place the broccoli florets in the food processor or blender canister. Add the remaining onion mixture, as well as the remaining egg and egg yolk. Process or blend until smooth.

Gently spoon this green mixture into the prepared loaf pan, taking care not to get the white bean mixture mixed into it, but also to create a smooth, flat top without any air pockets. Again, gently rap the pan against your work surface.

Butter a piece of aluminum foil and cover the pan with it, buttered side down. Place the loaf pan in a larger baking dish or roasting pan. Fill the baking dish or roasting pan with hot tap water until it comes halfway up the loaf pan.

Bake until set, about 2 hours. The pâté will rise up slightly and be firm, not jiggly; a flatware knife inserted into the center should come out clean. Remove the pan from the water bath and cool at room temperature for 10 minutes.

With the foil cover still in place, weight the top of the terrine with a brick covered in plastic wrap or a couple of heavy cans, laying them on their sides. Place these weights directly onto the foil-covered pâté.

Refrigerate for at least 8 hours, until chilled and firm, or for up to 3 days. To serve, unmold onto a serving platter—a paper towel damp with warm water can help loosen the pâté from the pan when you turn it upside down on the platter.

Variations: Substitute cubed golden beets for the carrots; steam them until tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes.

Substitute ½ pound thin, peeled asparagus spears, cut into 2-inch sections, for the broccoli.

Substitute 2 cups frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry of all excess moisture, for the broccoli; omit steaming the spinach.

Substitute tarragon for the thyme.

Substitute ground cloves for the nutmeg.

Chopped Liver

We prefer a combination of calf’s liver and chicken livers for this Jewish deli favorite. Serve with Challah, rice cakes, bagels, or crackers; with coarse sea salt to sprinkle on each serving; and with sliced radishes, thinly sliced red onions, and/or thinly sliced tomatoes. Makes about 12 servings

1½ pounds chicken livers, cut in half

½ pound calf’s liver, cut into 2-inch pieces

3 tablespoons olive oil (see Note)

2 large onions, chopped

3 hard-cooked eggs, peeled

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Line a broiler tray with aluminum foil; preheat the broiler.

Place both kinds of liver on the lined broiler pan and set them 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. Broil until cooked through, about 8 minutes, turning once. Set aside.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the olive oil, then the onions, and cook, stirring frequently, until softened and sweet, about 8 minutes.

Once the livers are cool enough to handle, cut them into 2-inch chunks and add them along with any accumulated juices to the skillet. Stir well, cover, reduce the heat to low, and continue cooking for 5 minutes. Set aside to cool for 5 minutes.

Grind the livers, onions, and eggs through a meat grinder set at a coarse setting. You’ll need to work in batches; be careful of your fingers near the blades. Alternatively, put the contents of the skillet and the eggs in the bowl of a large food processor fitted with the chopping blade; pulse a few times, then process quickly, just until velvety, not until mushy. Be careful: the food processor quickly turns it into baby food. Stir in the salt and pepper, then smooth the mixture into a serving dish.

To store: Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Note: For a more authentic taste, substitute schmaltz (or rendered chicken fat), available in kosher or kosher-style delis and some high-end supermarkets. But we’ve left out this traditional heart-stopper—and broiled the chicken livers, too—for a lighter take on this rather heavy starter.

Variations: Add ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg, ground cumin, or ground allspice with the salt.

Vegetarian Chopped Liver

We don’t like vegetarian fakes, especially since there are so many good vegetarian dishes to be made. But we’re partial to this walnut and lentil “pâté” because it goes so well with a slice of crunchy baguette and some Dijon mustard. Makes about 8 servings

2/₃ cup French or green lentils, picked over for stones

½ cup walnut pieces

3 tablespoons walnut oil

2 medium onions, chopped

1 celery rib, chopped

4 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and cut into quarters

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the lentils, stir well, reduce the heat to medium, cover partially, and cook until very tender, until the lentils begin to break apart, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the walnut pieces in a large skillet and toast them over medium heat until they are browned and aromatic, tossing frequently, about 4 minutes. Transfer to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the chopping blade.

Return the skillet to the heat. Add the walnut oil, then the onions and celery. Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are soft and golden, about 10 minutes. Pour the contents of the skillet into the food processor.

Drain the lentils in a colander set in the sink; then add to the food processor along with the eggs, salt, and pepper. Process until chunky-smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. The texture is a matter of personal taste: if you prefer a smoother pâté, run the processor a while longer.

To store: Transfer to a serving bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for up to 2 days; return to room temperature before serving.

Variations: Substitute pecan halves, pine nuts, or skinned hazelnut halves for the walnuts.

Substitute 6 shallots for the onions.

Add one of the following with the salt and pepper: 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme, ½ teaspoon ground cardamom, ½ teaspoon ground mace, ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves, or ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper.

Stuffed Appetizers

All these appetizers are filled—then rolled, fried, baked, or steamed. They’re not for weekdays; most take a little time but are great for weekends or holiday parties.

Summer Rolls

Here’s a no-cook affair of translucent wrappers holding fresh ingredients. A staple in Southeast Asian cooking, rice paper wrappers are made from rice flour, water, and salt; rolled to thin sheets, they’re dried on bamboo mats (thus, their crosshatch designs). Found in the Asian food section of most markets and in all Asian grocery stores, they can be stored in a cool, dark, dry place for up to 3 months. Makes 12 summer rolls

Canola or vegetable oil, for greasing the

baking sheet

12 rice paper wrappers

One of the five summer roll fillings that

follow

For dipping: Salsa, Wasabi Mayonnaise, Simple Asian Dipping Sauce, Sesame Dipping Sauce, Mignonette, Peanut-Ginger Sauce, seasoned rice vinegar, and/or your favorite vinaigrette

Dab a little oil on a paper towel and lightly grease a large baking sheet; cover it loosely with plastic wrap and set aside.

Fill a large, shallow bowl or a small baking pan with warm water. Pick up one brittle, dried wrapper and make sure it isn’t cracked or broken. Slip it into the water and soak just until pliable, usually less than 25 seconds. Remove it from the water and place it on your work surface.

Place the filling in a horizontal line in the bottom quarter of the wrapper. Fold two sides of the circle over the filling, then roll the wrapper up, rolling it away from you. Don’t push down, but make sure the filling is compact inside the wrapper. Slip the filled wrapper under the plastic wrap covering the baking sheet. Continue making more of the summer rolls, slipping them under the plastic wrap so they don’t dry out. Store at room temperature for about 1 hour or in the refrigerator for up to 4 hours. Serve with a dipping sauce on the side.

The Five Fillings for Summer Rolls

Don’t mix the ingredients together; simply divide them among the 12 summer rolls and place them on top of each other in the wrapper before rolling it up (as directed in step 3).

• 1. 1 pound tempeh, cut into very thin strips 4 ounces radish sprouts

½ cup Peanut-Ginger Sauce (about 2 teaspoons per roll)

• 2. 36 purchased cooked medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and diced

½ cup hoisin sauce (2 teaspoons per roll)

• 3. 8 ounces cooked chicken, chopped

1 medium cucumber, peeled and shredded through the large holes of a box grater

½ cup mango or other fruit chutney (2 teaspoons per roll)

• 4. About 4 ounces smoked salmon or Gravlax, cut into long strips

6 radishes, cut into thin rings

½ cup crème fraîche (2 teaspoons per roll)

• 5. 12 cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped

2 celery ribs, finely chopped

1 large ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and chopped

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Tips for Success

• The water must be warm to soften the wrappers; replace it often.

• Wipe your counter often or the wrappers will get water-logged.

• The rolls will stick together if they touch on the baking sheet.

• The rolls are best within an hour of their being made.

Chinese Dumplings

Shanghai-style wrappers are thinner but stay firmer, less slippery after they’re steamed (and crisper after they’re fried). Make these dumplings up to 8 hours before you steam them; once stuffed, store them, covered with plastic wrap, on a cornstarch-dusted baking sheet in the refrigerator. Makes about 40 dumplings

¾ pound ground pork

¼ pound medium shrimp (about 35 per pound), peeled and deveined

¼ cup canned preserved Szechuan cabbage, turnip, or mixed vegetables

4 scallions, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

½ teaspoon sugar

40 or more circular Shanghai-style dumpling wrappers

Cornstarch, for dusting the baking sheet

Nonstick spray or canola oil, for greasing the steamer baskets

Simple Asian Dipping Sauce, Sesame Dipping Sauce, Chinese prepared mustard, or purchased sweet-and-sour dipping sauce as a garnish

Place the pork, shrimp, preserved vegetable, and scallions in a food processor fitted with a chopping blade; pulse until well mixed. Add the ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, and sugar. Pulse until finely chopped, about like a coarse meat loaf mixture. (The filling can be made up to 1 day in advance; cover it tightly and store it in the refrigerator.)

Place one of the wrappers on your work surface. Place about 1 teaspoon filling in the center of the wrapper. Wet your finger and run it along half the circumference of the circle. Fold the circle closed into a half-moon, then pinch the edges together to seal.

Pick up the dumpling and dab a little water on the crescent edge. Begin crimping this curved edge closed, starting at one end and folding a little piece of the seam over itself, like crimping fabric or paper, and then again, and again until you’ve created a small, tight clutch or purse. Set aside on a cornstarch-dusted baking sheet and continue making more dumplings.

Bring about 2 inches of water to a simmer in a large pot. Meanwhile, spray several bamboo baskets with nonstick spray or lightly oil them. Place the dumplings in one layer in each, then stack them over the simmering water. Cover and steam until somewhat translucent and quite tender, about 10 minutes. Alternatively, steam the dumplings in batches in a metal vegetable steamer set over simmering water; spray the steamer with nonstick spray or line it with cabbage leaves to keep the wrappers from sticking. Serve with one or more dipping sauces on the side.

To turn the dumplings into potstickers:

Complete the dumpling recipe through step 3. Heat a 10- or 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 1 tablespoon sesame oil and 10 to 15 dumplings to the skillet, giving them some breathing room because they will expand. Fry undisturbed until the bottoms are brown and crispy, about 3 minutes. Add about ½ cup water to the pan, cover, and raise the heat to medium-high. Boil until the water has been all absorbed or evaporated and the filling is cooked through, about 8 minutes. Uncover, shake the pan to release the dumplings, and continue cooking until the bottoms crisp a second time, about 1 more minute. Transfer to a serving plate and continue frying more dumplings.

Stuffed Half-Moons: Empanaditas, Samosas, and Pierogi

Here’s a mix-and-match affair. Some of the six fillings that follow are traditional for empanaditas (small, baked empanadas), samosas (fried East Indian dumplings), or pierogi (boiled Polish dumplings), but you can pair just about any filling with any dough, thereby creating the appetizer you want.

Empanaditas

These Latin American half-moons get brown and crunchy in the oven. Make sure you seal them well so that the filling doesn’t leak. If you want an authentic taste, substitute lard for the solid vegetable shortening. Makes about 32

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting

2 teaspoons salt

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons solid vegetable shortening

3 large eggs

½ cup very cold water plus 2 tablespoons water

One of the six fillings that follow, preferably Herbed Turkey, South American Picadillo, or Vietnamese Picadillo

Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the shortening with a pastry cutter or a fork until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Whisk 2 of the eggs and ½ cup cold water in a small bowl, then pour this into the flour mixture. Stir with a fork until a soft dough forms—but do not overwork: it should cohere into a ball but still be crumbly. Gather together, wrap in plastic, and set aside at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, make one of the six fillings on section Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks.

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

Divide the dough in half. Lightly dust your work surface with flour and roll out half the dough until it’s a large sheet about 1_/8 inch thick. Cut into sixteen 3½-inch circles, using a thick-rimmed water glass or a cookie cutter.

Place 1½ teaspoons of the filling in the center of each circle. Wet your finger with a little water, then run it around the rim of one of the circles. Fold in half, creating a half-moon; press the wet edges together to seal completely, even to the corners. Place on the prepared baking sheet and continue making the empanaditas, spacing them about 1 inch apart.

Repeat the process with the second half of the dough, making 32 empanaditas in all.

Beat the remaining egg and the remaining 2 tablespoons water in a small bowl. Brush the empanaditas with the egg wash, then bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 2 minutes, then serve or transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Samosas

Serve these deep-fried Indian pockets as soon as they’re made; accompany them with plain yogurt mixed with chopped mint or parsley. Makes about 32

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

8 tablespoons (1 stick) cool unsalted butter, cut into chunks

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons plain yogurt (regular or low-fat but not fat-free)

¼ cup very cold water

One of the six fillings that follow, preferably Cheese, Potato, Curried Squash and Pea, or Herbed Turkey

3 to 5 cups canola oil

Mix the flour and salt in a large bowl. Cut in the butter using a pastry cutter or a fork until the mixture resembles coarse meal.

Stir in the yogurt, then the water, just until a loose dough forms and holds together. Gather it into a ball and wrap in plastic. Set aside at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, make one of the six fillings that begin on section Appetizers, Nibbles, and Snacks.

Divide the dough in half; lightly dust your work surface with flour. Roll out one of the dough halves until it’s about 1/₈ inch thick. Cut it into sixteen 3½-inch circles, using a thick-rimmed water glass or a cookie cutter.

Place 1½ teaspoons of the filling in the center of each of the circles. Wet your finger, then run it around the rim of one of the circles. Fold the circle in half, enclosing the filling in a half-moon. Press the edges together to seal. Set aside and continue making the half-moon samosas with the remaining circles, then repeat the process with the second half of the dough.

Place the canola oil in a large, high-sided skillet or sauté pan so that it comes about 2 inches up the sides of the pan. Clip a deep-frying thermometer to the inside of the pan and heat over medium-high heat until the temperature reaches 350°F.

Slip a few of the samosas into the pan, taking care not to crowd them. Adjust the heat so the oil’s temperature remains constant. Fry until golden, turning once or twice with a slotted metal spoon, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and continue frying the samosas until all are done.

Pierogi

These boiled Polish dumplings are a little slippery but still very luscious. Serve them the classic way: drizzled with melted butter and sprinkled with poppy seeds. Makes about 36

1 cup warm water

3 large eggs

2 tablespoons canola oil

2 teaspoons salt

4 cups all-purpose flour, or more as necessary

One of the six fillings that follow, preferably Cheese or Potato

Whisk the water, eggs, canola oil, and salt in a large bowl until fairly uniform. Stir in the flour until a dough forms, adding more in 2-tablespoon increments if the dough is still too sticky.

Knead the dough in the bowl a few times until smooth, then dust the work surface with flour and turn the dough onto it. Knead about 10 minutes, digging into the dough with one palm while pulling with the other hand, adding more flour should the dough become sticky. Once it is smooth and soft, wrap the dough in plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, make one of the six fillings.

Unwrap the dough and divide it in half. Dust the work surface again lightly with flour, then roll one of the pieces out until it’s 1_/8 inch thick. Cut it into sixteen 3½-inch circles, using a cookie cutter or a thick-rimmed drinking glass.

Place 1¼ teaspoons filling in the center of each circle. Wet your finger and run it around the edge of one of the circles. Fold the circle over the filling, creating a half-moon. Seal the edges tightly, then repeat with the remaining circles—and then with the other half of the dough, making all the pierogi.

Bring a large stockpot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Drop the pierogi into the water. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer slowly for 10 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink.

The Six Fillings for
Empanaditas, Samosas,
or Pierogi

1. Cheese Filling

Makes about 1 cup

½ pound soft goat cheese such as Montrachet or low-fat farmer cheese, crumbled

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon canola oil or melted unsalted butter

1½ teaspoons all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sugar, minced parsley, thyme, or oregano leaves, optional

Mix all the ingredients in a large bowl with a wooden spoon until smooth. Use at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

2. Potato Filling

Makes about 1 cup

1 medium baking potato, peeled and cut into cubes

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

¼ teaspoon paprika

¼ teaspoon onion powder

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₈ teaspoon garlic powder

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the potato and cook until tender when pierced with a fork, about 15 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink and cool for 5 minutes, then press through a potato ricer into a large bowl or place in a sieve and press through the mesh with the back of a wooden spoon.

Stir in the butter, paprika, onion powder, salt, pepper, and garlic powder until smooth. Use at once; do not refrigerate.

3. Curried Squash and Pea Filling

Makes a little more than 1 cup

1 cup frozen pureed winter squash, thawed, or 1 cup butternut squash puree

¼ cup frozen peas

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 teaspoons potato or cornstarch

Stir all the ingredients together in a large bowl until smooth. Use at once or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours.

4. Herbed Turkey Filling

Makes about 1 cup

2 teaspoons olive oil

1 medium shallot, minced

1 garlic clove, minced

6 ounces ground turkey

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon turmeric

1/₈ teaspoon ground cloves

1/₈ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon tomato paste

2 teaspoons dry vermouth or dry white wine

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Swirl in the olive oil, then add the shallot and cook until softened, stirring frequently, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic; cook for 20 seconds.

Crumble in the ground turkey. Cook, stirring frequently, until browned, about 4 minutes.

Stir in the salt, cinnamon, turmeric, cloves, and pepper. Cook for 15 seconds, then stir in the tomato paste and vermouth or wine.

Bring the mixture to a simmer, then set aside off the heat for 30 minutes; or place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.

5. South American Picadillo

Makes about 1 cup

2 teaspoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, minced

4 ounces lean ground beef

1 hard-cooked egg, finely chopped

1½ tablespoons chopped pitted green olives

1 tablespoon chopped golden raisins

1 tablespoon minced cilantro leaves

2 teaspoons tomato paste

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₈ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a large skillet over medium heat, then swirl in the olive oil and add the garlic. Cook, stirring frequently, until aromatic, about 20 seconds. Crumble in the ground beef and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and cooked through, about 4 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and cool for 5 minutes. Then stir in the egg, olives, raisins, cilantro, tomato paste, salt, and pepper. Continue cooling for at least 20 more minutes, or place in a large bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Picadillo

A picadillo is a spicy meat mélange, much favored in South American countries. In Cuba, warm picadillo is served with rice and beans as a main course. The Vietnamese version here is our flight of fancy. You can serve either of these two on its own—but double the recipe, making at least 2 cups. Serve with warm flour tortillas, lettuce leaves, or crackers.

6. Vietnamese Picadillo

Makes about 1 cup

1 teaspoon peanut oil

2 medium scallions, white and green parts minced separately and set aside

1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 garlic clove, minced

6 ounces lean ground beef

1 tablespoon creamy peanut butter or tahini

1 tablespoon lime juice

2 teaspoons fish sauce

¼ to ½ teaspoon chili paste

1 medium radish, minced

1 tablespoon chopped cilantro leaves

1 tablespoon chopped mint leaves

Heat a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Pour in the peanut oil, wait for a few seconds, then add the white parts of the scallion. Stir-fry for 30 seconds, just to soften, and then add the ginger and garlic. Stir-fry for 15 seconds before crumbling in the ground beef. Continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the meat is browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl and cool for 10 minutes.

Whisk the peanut butter, lime juice, fish sauce, and chili paste in a small bowl until smooth. Stir into the ground beef mixture along with the radish, cilantro, mint, and the green parts of the scallions. Set aside for 20 minutes or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Salads

DRESSED SALADS ARE WESTERN FARE. THEY BEGAN THEIR CULINARY LIFE IN the early years of the Roman empire as a digestive aid. By the Renaissance, a salad, like revenge, was a dish best served cold; salted meats and greens were tossed with citrus, raisins, and nuts, dressed with oil and vinegar, and sprinkled with paprika or sugar. In the nineteenth century, tossed greens were such a European obsession that one Frenchman, the Chevalier d’Albignac, is said to have made a living in London by going house to house and dressing his patrons’ salads.

But surely the exact moment when salads came of age is when they passed into cliché—via Shakespeare, of course. In Antony and Cleopatra, to be exact. Toward the end of the first act, the Nile Queen laments her youthful dalliance with Caesar: “My salad days, when I was green in judgment…”

She may have grieved for hers; we welcome ours. In the spring and summer, the markets burst with produce: lettuce, tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, the whole fare.

Unfortunately, all salads are here today, gone tomorrow. Tuna salad can’t last more than a day or two; potato salad simply won’t. Summer’s heat puts the spike to tender greens and winter inevitably careens around the corner, smashing the market to bits. Even vinegar, the longtime and perfect mate of lettuce, is actually its enemy: one splash and those water-doped cells start to break down.

Perhaps their transitory nature gives salads such a lasting pleasure. For a little while, salad days are the best days you can have, whether you’re dating Caesar or not.

The Ultimate Salad Bar

Doesn’t everyone know how to make a salad? A recipe for one is about like a recipe for cheese and crackers. Here, we’ve just tried to clarify the choices. We start with the greens themselves, then move on to the important sparks and spikes like fruit, nuts, croutons, and even grilled chicken that make a salad more than just lettuce in a bowl. Finally, we offer thirty dressings that can make a salad stand on its own, whether you serve it before or after the main course.

A Greens Primer

Our markets overflow with greens. There’s a wide variety to this leafy fare, but the best salads are made with a combination of greens, no one predominant. Here, we map out the territory so you can develop a signature mix that reflects your taste.

Lettuces

Long the centerpiece of a salad, these floppy, flappy greens are divided into four categories.

Butterhead Lettuce

Common Varietal(s): Boston, Bibb

Exotic Varietal(s): Red Butter, Green Butter, Tennis Ball, Grosse Blonde Paresseuse

What It Looks Like: Big-eared, concave leaves curling up into a loose ball

What You Look For: An earthy smell, a tight root, and no rust spots on the leaves

What You Get: A mild, slightly tangy/sweet taste

Pros: A match for simple dressings, stone fruits, toasted nuts, corn, and mild vegetables

Cons: Turns depressingly gooey if long-dressed

Crisphead Lettuce

Common Varietal: Iceberg

Exotic Varietal(s): Great Lakes, Vanguard, Western, Imperial, Reine de Glace

What It Looks Like: A compact, tight, cabbage-like ball

What You Look For: Heavy to the hand, a rust-free stem, and no brown spots on the leaves

What You Get: A mildly acidic but clean canvas for other flavors; crunch without bitterness

Pros: For muscular, well-stocked salads and creamy dressings; can be served in wedges

Cons: Watery and insipid if grown improperly; turns bitter in the heat

Loose-Leaf Lettuce

Common Varietal(s): Red Leaf, Green Leaf

Exotic Varietal(s): Lolla Rossa, Red Oak Leaf, Green Oak Leaf

What It Looks Like: Flappy, wide, soft leaves that gently lift off a base

What You Look For: A conical head, tight at the bottom but looser at the top

What You Get: A mild, grassy, sweet taste

Pros: An excellent second fiddle to other greens

Cons: Can glom onto the roof of your mouth; wrong for burgers and sandwiches

Long-Leaf Lettuce

Common Varietal: Romaine

Exotic Varietal: Cos

What It Looks Like: Broad, stiff, crunchy spear that skyrockets off a tight base

What You Look For: A compact core, spot-free stem, leaves that shade from pale green to dark, each with a firm, pale spine

What You Get: Crisp leaves with a slightly bitter, almost tart flavor

Pros: A crunch against creamy dressings and with softer lettuces

Cons: The darker, the more astringent

Chicories and Endives

These originally separate categories are now fused because of their common trait: a refreshing pepperiness. The name-game gets complicated because of French, British, and American traditions. Be forewarned: these “greens” (not all of them are green) can be astringent and tough. To avoid the problem? Choose young, small heads.

Chicory

Common Varietal: Sugarloaf

Exotic Varietal(s): Grumolo, Catalogna

What It Looks Like: A curly, loose-leaf head with moderately stiff leaves that may or may not frizz at the edges

What You Look For: Fleshy leaves with firm (but not rigid or fibrous) stems

What You Get: A toothy, somewhat acidic bite

Pros: Its sophisticated taste and chewy texture pairs well with creamy and sweet dressings

Cons: Easily overwhelms mild greens; mature, dark leaves can be tough

Red Chicory

Common Varietal(s): Radicchio, Chioggia Radicchio, Verona Radicchio (round heads)

Exotic Varietal(s): Treviso (spear head), Castel-franco (yellow-tinged)

What It Looks Like: A waxy, firm head with pronounced white veins

What You Look For: A tight head that is heavy to the hand

What You Get: A pleasant bitterness that in moderation will not overwhelm milder lettuces

Pros: Its substantial texture and bite (even roasted or grilled)

Cons: Leaves long exposed to the light can be tough and shockingly bitter

Dandelion Greens

Common Varietal: (same)

Exotic Varietal: (same)

What It Looks Like: Long, spiky, jagged leaves with a tubular stem

What You Look For: Pliable, resilient leaves

What You Get: An aggressive bitterness that cries out for balsamic or creamy dressings

Pros: A combative edge against citrus and sliced onions; can be chopped and stirred into soups for a sour spark

Cons: Can be a bully in the salad bowl

Belgian Endive

Common Varietal: Belgian Endive

Exotic Varietal(s): California (or Red Leaf) Endive

What It Looks Like: A waxy, spearlike head fringed in yellow or red

What You Look For: A pale, tight head with color only at the edges; should be wrapped in tissue paper to protect it from the light

What You Get: A crunchy, tender spike in salads; ironically, these are actually chicories, not endives, grown in the dark off a root base

Pros: Pairs well with tomatoes, cheese, basil, smoked salmon, or creamy dressings

Cons: Turns increasingly pungent when exposed to light

Curly Endive

Common Varietal: Curly Chicory

Exotic Varietal: Frisée

What It Looks Like: A frizzy, lacy, floppy green with leaves that end in spidery tendrils; the color yellows toward a pale base

What You Look For: A pale head (the more green, the more bitter)

What You Get: A bitter, pungent taste and a chewy texture

Pros: Makes a great foil for eggs, bacon, creamy dressings, and strong flavors

Cons: Not only aggressive but also expensive

Escarole

Common Varietal(s): Broad-Leaf Endive, Escarole

Exotic Varietal(s): Scarole, Batavian

What It Looks Like: Wide, fiat, dark green leaves that open off a yellow core

What You Look For: A compact head with moderate yellowing at its center

What You Get: A succulent, bittersweet green

Pros: Perks up moderately flavored salads; even better simmered in soups

Cons: Pugnacious, tough dark leaves

Microgreens, Mild to Bold

Not technically a botanical or agricultural category, these are small-leaf greens: some baby versions of their adult kin; others, small even in their mature phase. Most are familiar from packaged salad mixes, but markets now routinely sell them on their own, often in small wicker baskets. Perfect for mixing with other greens, most are too subtle or soft to create a satisfying salad on their own. They mostly lack varietals and exotic names since they themselves are often an exotic varietal of other larger greens.

Baby Oak Leaf Lettuce

What It Looks Like: An immature version of red or green oak leaf lettuce; the small leaves do indeed look like tiny oak leaves

What You Look For: Springy leaves that have not wilted or gone rusty

What You Get: A mild taste without the cloying softness often attributed to the adult kin

Pros: A delicate, refreshing green with a smooth, sweet finish

Cons: Knocked senseless by anything more assertive than a cucumber

Mâche

Also Known As: Corn Salad, Cow Salad, Lamb’s Lettuce, Rampon, or Doucette

What It Looks Like: A small, delicate green with thin, rounding leaves that sometimes end in an almost heart-shaped tip

What You Look For: If possible, buy this delicate green with its root ball or planting packet still attached

What You Get: A sweet, delicate, mildly grassy taste

Pros: Pairs well with radishes, corn, tomatoes, and cucumber

Cons: Extremely perishable—use it the day you buy it

Baby Spinach

What It Looks Like: Small, round, or oval spinach leaves, often with a slightly waxy finish

What You Look For: Tender, pliable greens without any tough stems or curly edges

What You Get: A salad-mix staple, thanks to its mild taste and tender bite

Pros: Stands up fairly well to bigger tastes and pairs well with protein and croutons

Cons: Overwhelmed by bitter greens and spicy dressings

Watercress

What It Looks Like: Small, rounded leaves off tender stems

What You Look For: Small stems and tender leaves; avoid large stems which are fibrous and must be removed

What You Get: A mustardy bite

Pros: Excellent on hamburgers or sandwiches, best with citrus vinaigrettes

Cons: Can be tough and chewy if the leaves are too mature or improperly stored

Mizuna

Also Known As: Japanese Mustard Greens

What It Looks Like: Tiny, spiky, pale green leaves

What You Look For: Smaller leaves with tender, pliable stems

What You Get: An acidic, almost lemony bite

Pros: Will perk up most salads but best against crunchy, light greens like a crisphead lettuce

Cons: Packs a wallop; should be worked into a salad in the same way radicchio is

Arugula

Also Known As: Rocket, Rugola, or Roquette (actually, now considered a larger category of cultivated, broad-leaf, non-head-forming greens, all from a wild, feathery plant little seen anymore)

What It Looks Like: Thin, jagged leaves, often like a spiky oval

What You Look For: Smaller leaves without waxiness or thick stems

What You Get: A hearty dose of bitter pepper

Pros: A good match for spicy salads, Asian foods, or citrus—and terrific on a pizza

Cons: Larger leaves can be tough and should be stemmed to avoid the fibrous core

Sorrel

What It Looks Like: Pale green, oblong leaves that become arrow-like at the stem

What You Look For: Pliable leaves, preferably less than 4 inches long

What You Get: A sour, very strong taste

Pros: In moderation, intensifies other tastes and stands up well to creamy dressings; often used directly in soups and stews like cabbage or kale

Cons: Because of its high oxalic acid content, large doses can cause stomach upset

How to Mix-and-Match Greens

Now that we’ve nailed down the categories of greens, this chart should help you make your own salad mix. Mix greens from adjacent categories for a balance of taste and texture. For example, iceberg goes well with romaine or Bibb—or both. But Bibb will be beaten senseless by dandelion greens. You needn’t settle on a pair; try three from three adjacent categories, or choose two from one and a third that’s more assertive to its left.

The Five Steps for Working with Greens

Trim. If there’s a base knot or root base to the head, trim it off to let the leaves flop free; remove and discard any discolored or tough outer leaves. Cut out any long, fibrous stems.

Wash. Fill a cleaned sink with cool water, then plunge the trimmed greens into it. Soak for 3 to 5 minutes, stirring once or twice, to let any sand or grit fall to the bottom of the sink. Remove carefully without draining the water, washing off individual leaves if still dirty. Once all the greens are out of the sink, drain the water and wash away the grit.

Dry. Take them for a whirl in a salad spinner or gently dab them dry between generous layers of paper towels.

Store. Roll the leaves between dry paper towels and store in a sealed plastic bag with a few holes poked in it at room temperature for up to 6 hours or in the crisper for up to 4 days.

Chop. Tear leafy greens by hand; chop others with a chef’s knife into bite-sized chunks.

Composed vs. Tossed

A composed salad has its ingredients artfully layered and arranged on individual plates, the dressing drizzled over the top. A tossed salad has, well, its ingredients and their dressing tossed together in a bowl, ready to be served. The choice is yours: elegance vs. efficiency.

Thirty Salad Dressings

Here’s a list of thirty dressings, simple to complex, spiky to creamy. It’s a mix-and-match affair with the greens you choose, but we offer suggestions. Each recipe makes enough for a four-serving salad. Double, triple, or quadruple at will. Keep the extra dressing sealed in a glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks; the clotted oil will reliquefy as the dressing comes back to room temperature.

To make any of these vinaigrettes: Whisk everything except the oil in a small bowl, then slowly whisk in the oil until opaque and emulsified.

Classic Vinaigrettes

All made with olive oil, these are good for light salads, bitter greens, fresh fruit, sliced tomatoes, or steamed vegetables. You can also toss them on a light, crisp potato salad.

Balsamic Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₃ cup extra virgin olive oil

Sherry Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove, crushed

1½ tablespoons sherry vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon stemmed thyme or 1_/8 teaspoon dried thyme

1/₃ cup extra virgin olive oil

Poppy Seed Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon toasted poppy seeds

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₃ cup extra virgin olive oil

Fruit Vinaigrettes

These are sweeter, a better foil to more assertive flavors. Avoid sweet fruit accents and go for sugar snap peas, green beans, asparagus, nuts, or croutons with these dressings.

Orange Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed 1 tablespoon rice vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup canola oil

Apple Caraway Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons frozen apple juice concentrate, thawed 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

½ teaspoon crushed caraway seeds

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₈ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup canola oil

Raspberry Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₃ cup grapeseed or walnut oil

Cranberry Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon frozen cranberry juice concentrate, thawed 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup olive oil

Pomegranate Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₈ teaspoon salt

1/₃ cup walnut oil

What’s Mesclun?

From a Provençal word for “mixed,” mesclun is not any one lettuce but a mix. Although European mixes tend to be crisp and bitter, American versions move toward the sweet and soft.

Croutons

For 4 servings, heat 2 tablespoons oil (walnut, grape seed, olive, canola, etc.) in a large skillet set over medium heat; or melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in the skillet. Add 2 minced garlic cloves and/or 2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary, oregano, parsley, or thyme. Cook until aromatic, about 1 minute; then add 2 cups cubed day-old bread (sourdough, white, whole wheat, rye, etc.). Reduce the heat to low and cook, stirring constantly, until crunchy and lightly browned. Season with ¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.

Our Favorite Salad Combinations

Of course, the point is for you to build your own ultimate salad. But here are some of our favorite combos, just to get you started.

Bibb, baby spinach, Croutons, bacon, Buttermilk Dressing Red leaf lettuce, green leaf lettuce, radishes, toasted pecans, Lemon Tahini Vinaigrette

Iceberg, romaine, arugula, celery, sunflower seeds, Honey Mustard Vinaigrette Mâche, baby spinach, mizuna, shallot, tomato, Butter Dressing

Radicchio, Belgian endive, peach, toasted walnuts, Blue Cheese Dressing Iceberg, romaine, Belgian endive, red onion, cucumber, Thousand Island Dressing

Herb Vinaigrettes

These work on summery green salads, accented with fruits and toasted nuts. They are also good with pasta and vegetable salads.

Basil Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons white wine or champagne vinegar

1 tablespoon minced basil leaves

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₈ teaspoon sugar

1/₃ cup olive oil

Lemon Tarragon Vinaigrette

1 small shallot, minced

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon minced tarragon leaves or ½ teaspoon dried tarragon

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₃ cup olive oil

Mint Vinaigrette

1 small shallot, minced

¼ cup chopped mint leaves

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

¼ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup olive oil

Creamy Vinaigrettes

These dressings are good drizzled on iceberg wedges or tossed in fairly assertive salads with endive or radicchio in the mix. The dressings also work exceptionally well with main-course salads, since the creaminess complements any protein in the salad.

Mustard Vinaigrette

1 small shallot, minced

½ tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1/₃ cup olive oil

Honey Mustard Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon honey

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/₃ cup olive or mustard seed oil

Classic French Bistro Vinaigrette

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 large egg yolk, preferably a pasteurized yolk, at room temperature

1½ tablespoons white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup olive oil

Lemon Tahini Vinaigrette

1 tablespoon lemon juice

½ tablespoon tahini

½ tablespoon white balsamic vinegar

½ tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup olive oil

Neutral Salad Oils

Canola oil, corn oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, soy bean oil, cottonseed salad oil, grapeseed oil—in truth, these oils have such a faint taste that they are practically interchangeable in salad dressings. Refined peanut oil is also neutral, although some bottlings, particularly Asian ones, can have a pronounced taste. If you want to add a little flavor without pitching over into walnut, sesame, or extra virgin olive oil territory, try almond oil.

Asian Vinaigrettes

These pair well with strong greens and sweet vegetables like a mix of shredded carrot and chopped endive or cubed apple and chopped romaine. They’re also good drizzled on grilled fish or steamed Brussels sprouts as a “finishing sauce.”

Ponzu Vinaigrette

2½ tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

3 tablespoons peanut oil

Sesame Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

½ teaspoon soy sauce

¼ cup peanut oil

Lime Ginger Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons lime juice

tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup olive oil

Spicy Asian Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

½ teaspoon soy sauce

½ teaspoon chili oil

¼ cup peanut oil

Unusual Vinaigrettes

These easily overpower delicate, summery greens, sweet fruits, or ripe tomatoes. Try them with very assertive salad mixes as well as drizzled on wilted spinach, turnip greens, or roasted root vegetables. Toasted walnut oil, used in the first dressing, has a much more pronounced taste than regular walnut oil and should be used sparingly.

Toasted Walnut Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons cider vinegar

½ teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1½ tablespoons toasted walnut oil

¼ cup canola oil

Coffee Vinaigrette

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon instant espresso powder

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₃ cup walnut oil

Saffron Vinaigrette

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest

1_/8 teaspoon saffron threads, dissolved in 2 teaspoons hot water for 5 minutes

¼ teaspoon salt

1/₃ cup olive oil

Chipotle Vinaigrette

1 chipotle in adobo, seeded and minced 1 tablespoon lime juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ cup peanut oil

Creamy Dressings

To make any of these more substantial dressings, whisk all the ingredients together in a small bowl; they can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. For those dressings that use mayonnaise, consider making your own.

Butter Dressing

Best on light, summery greens mixed with raw or steamed vegetables

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon stemmed thyme

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg

Mayonnaise Dill Dressing

Best on crunchy greens as well as in potato salads, pasta salads, and on poached salmon

½ cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped dill fronds

1 teaspoon dry mustard

½ teaspoon sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Thousand Island Dressing

Best as the classic: on iceberg wedges—or as a dip for vegetables

1 small scallion, minced

¼ cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon ketchup

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 tablespoon pickle relish

½ tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Hot red pepper sauce to taste

Green Goddess Dressing

Best on chopped, crunchy salads with strong, slightly bitter greens

2 anchovy fillets, minced

1 small scallion, minced

6 tablespoons mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon minced parsley leaves

1 tablespoon minced dill fronds

1 tablespoon minced basil leaves

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Creamy Curry Dressing

Best with a well-stocked green salad with lots of raw or steamed vegetables among the greens

1 garlic clove, crushed

½ cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons sour cream

1 tablespoon curry powder

2 teaspoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon garlic powder

¼ teaspoon salt

Buttermilk Dressing

Best on summery, light greens, such as Bibb lettuce, mixed with some chopped fresh herbs and fresh fruit

1 garlic clove, crushed

3 tablespoons buttermilk (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

3 tablespoons sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 teaspoons stemmed thyme or 1 teaspoon dried thyme

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

A few dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

Blue Cheese Dressing

Excellent with almost any match of greens—and great on pasta or potato salads

1 small shallot, minced

½ cup mayonnaise (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

¼ cup crumbled blue cheese

2 tablespoons sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Extra virgin olive oil wasn’t created for sautés; most of its flavor volatilizes and is lost. It was made for salads and as a finishing splash on roasted or steamed vegetables. Buy a cold-pressed olive oil for sautéing; save the extra virgin stuff for when it counts.

Salad Accents

A good salad is more than just lettuce and dressing. Balance the greens with accents that match their flavors. Frankly, it’s a matter of preference: some people like sweet accents such as peaches with bitter greens like arugula; others like strong, assertive tastes such as blue cheese or toasted nuts. In fact, either will work. For a full, flavorful, salad that serves four, choose one accent from at least each of two categories and pair them with 4 to 6 cups shredded greens. for some of our favorite combinations. Main-course salads usually include protein of some sort—but remember: the point of a main-course salad is the greens. Don’t overload them with extras.

Building the Ultimate Green Salad

Now that you have all the pieces, create your favorite salad. One tip: serve salads with creamy dressings and strong flavors as first courses; serve those with milder flavors and tamer vinaigrettes after the main course to clear the palate and aid digestion. Makes 4 servings

Start with a large, cool salad bowl. Better too much room than dressed leaves flopping onto the counter.

Add a mix of greens. They can be difficult to measure. Who wants to jam tender leaves into measuring cups? Figure on a little more than a large handful per person—thus, about five handfuls for four people. If possible, keep the greens at room temperature and serve them the day you buy them.

Add a couple of salad accents.

Finally, choose a salad dressing, mild to bold. Drizzle it on the salad or serve on the side. Your clean hands actually make the best tool for tossing a salad. Never dress the greens before you’re ready to serve the salad; acid breaks them down and renders them mushy.

Side Salads

The common thread here? These salads aren’t first courses per se, nor are they stand-alones. Instead, they’re designed to go with other things: roasts, casseroles, sautés, but primarily, of course, a piece of bread.

A Bowl of Vinegary Cucumbers

Every summer, we keep a bowl of this salad in the fridge, replenishing it as it runs low. Makes 8 servings

3 to 4 large cucumbers, peeled and thinly sliced

1 medium red onion, sliced into very thin rounds and broken into rings

¾ cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons salt

Place the cucumbers and onion in a large bowl; pour in the vinegar, then fill the bowl with cool water until the vegetables are submerged. Stir in the sugar and salt until dissolved.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 2 weeks. Drain the cucumbers and onions with a slotted spoon when serving.

Variations: Add 1 seeded and chopped pickled or fresh jalapeño chile with the onion.

Add 1 tablespoon dried dill, 1 tablespoon chopped chives, or 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes with the sugar.

Add 6 whole cloves, 6 crushed juniper berries, or 4 crushed allspice berries with the sugar. (Do not eat these with the cucumbers and onions.)

Sweet Corn and Onion Salad

Many local farmers’ markets sell roasted corn on the cob all summer, making this summery, Southwestern-spiked side even easier to make. Makes 6 servings

6 ears corn

Vegetable oil, for greasing the grill rack

1 large red onion, cut into thick slices

2 tablespoons lime juice

½ teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon salt

Several dashes of hot red pepper sauce to taste

2 tablespoons walnut oil

Peel open the corn husks, remove the silk from the ears, and pat the husks back in place. Fill your sink with cool water, add the ears in their husks, and soak for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a gas grill to medium heat or build a medium-heat coal bed in a charcoal grill. Lightly oil the grill rack. (For a method using the broiler, see the Variations.)

Remove the corn from the water and drain. Place the ears in their wet husks directly over the heated grill or the coal bed. Cover and grill for 5 minutes, turning a couple of times. Transfer to a cutting board and cool for 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, place the onion slices directly over the heat; grill until lightly browned, about 3 minutes, turning two or three times. Transfer to the cutting board to cool.

Remove the husks from the corn and cut off one end of the cobs so they will stand upright on a cutting board. Holding the ears carefully, slice the kernels off the cobs with a large knife, cutting down between the kernels and the cob. Discard the cobs. Chop the onion slices into kernel-sized pieces.

Whisk the lime juice, cumin, salt, and hot red pepper sauce in a medium serving bowl. Slowly whisk in the walnut oil. Add the corn kernels and onion; toss well to serve.

Variations: To forgo the grill, preheat the broiler and place the soaked corn in its husks and the onions on an aluminum foil–lined broiler pan 4 to 6 inches from the heat, turning several times, until lightly browned.

For a creamier salad, omit the walnut oil and stir in ¼ cup mayonnaise with the lime juice and seasonings.

Grilled Salad

We’ve been unabashed fans of grilled lettuce ever since we lived off this salad one summer in northeastern Vermont. There’s no need for a formal dressing: the lettuce picks up the smoky flavor of the grill and keeps plenty of olive oil in the leaves. If you don’t have access to a grill, you can use a grill pan (see step 3). Makes 6 servings

½ cup olive oil

1 large head romaine lettuce, cut in half, outer leaves removed

2 small heads radicchio, cut in quarters, outer leaves removed

2 small heads Belgian endive, cut in half, outer leaves removed

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, preferably aged balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Heat a gas grill to high heat for direct cooking or prepare a high-heat, well-ashed coal bed in a charcoal grill. Set the grate about 5 inches from the heat.

Pour the olive oil in a large baking dish; dip the lettuce sections into the oil on all sides, then place them cut side down on the grate directly over the heat. Cook, covered, until lightly browned and a little wilted, about 4 minutes, turning once. Transfer to a cutting board; cool for a few minutes.

Core the romaine and radicchio. Shred all the lettuces with a large knife into 1-inch slices. Place in a large serving bowl; toss with the vinegar, salt, and pepper.

Using a grill pan: Heat it to medium-high heat and then add the oil-dipped lettuce. Cook just until slightly wilted and browned, about 3 minutes, turning once.

Variations: Soak 2 long rosemary spears in water for 10 minutes, then lay these in a drip pan over the heat source or directly on top of the coals before grilling the lettuces to infuse them with some of the rosemary flavor.

Toss one 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts, drained and roughly chopped, and/or one 6-ounce jar pimientos, sliced, with the sliced grilled lettuce.

Roasted Radicchio and Shallots

Roasting radicchio mellows its edge, leaving it with just enough spike to complement the sweet, caramelized shallots. Makes 6 servings

3 medium shallots, peeled

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium heads radicchio, outer leaves removed (see Note)

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ to ½ teaspoon salt

Position the rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F.

Place the shallots in a large baking dish, pour 2 tablespoons olive oil over them, and toss to coat. Cover with aluminum foil and roast for 30 minutes.

Cut the radicchio heads into quarters through the base so the leaves stay intact in the quarters. Rub the remaining 3 tablespoons oil on the radicchio quarters.

Uncover the baking dish and add the radicchio. Roast, uncovered, until the radicchio is lightly browned and the shallots are quite soft, about 20 more minutes. Transfer all to a cutting board; let stand for 10 minutes.

Roughly chop the radicchio and shallots; scrape them and any residual oil into a large serving bowl. Toss with the balsamic vinegar and salt to serve.

Note: Some markets are tricky: they often remove the outer leaves of radicchio heads to keep them looking fresh and bright. Check the stem and make sure there are no layers missing from the tight-pack head.

Variations: Substitute Belgian endive heads for the radicchio; cut them in half lengthwise before roasting.

Add 4 to 6 unpeeled garlic cloves with the shallots. Once roasted, squeeze the soft pulp into the salad with the vinegar.

Add 2 teaspoons chopped herbs—thyme, rosemary, oregano, and/or parsley, for example—with the salt.

For a spikier salad, substitute white wine vinegar for the balsamic vinegar—or try lemon juice for a bright spark.

Tomato Basil Salad

The trick to this simple salad is to leach the excess water out of the tomatoes while infusing them with vinegar—all before tossing them with the olive oil. Since the tomatoes will break down under the vinegar’s acid, there’s no need to use fancy heirloom tomatoes here—unless, of course, you want to go for broke. Even slightly hard beefsteak tomatoes will soften up nicely. Makes 8 servings

2 pounds medium tomatoes, cut into eighths

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon salt, preferably kosher salt or coarse sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup chopped basil leaves

Toss the tomatoes, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a large bowl; cover and set aside at room temperature for at least 2 hours or up to 12 hours, stirring occasionally.

Carefully remove the tomatoes from the marinade, using a slotted spoon. Place them in a serving bowl and toss with the olive oil and basil. Serve at once.

Variations: Add up to 4 garlic cloves, quartered, with the salt and pepper. Leave them behind when you transfer the tomatoes to the serving bowl.

Substitute chives, oregano, marjoram, parsley, or tarragon for the basil—or substitute a mixture equal to ¼ cup.

Substitute 2 tablespoons stemmed thyme for the basil.

Panzanella (Tomato Bread Salad)

This Italian salad of tomatoes and cubed bread is a hearty side, good for summer barbecues and winter roasts. Makes 6 servings

4 cups cubed day-old baguette, crunchy French bread, or any crusty bread (about 1-inch cubes), toasted

1½ pounds medium tomatoes, cut into eighths

1 medium cucumber, peeled, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and diced

1 small red onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1½ tablespoons red wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt, preferably sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

Mix the bread, tomatoes, cucumber, and red onion in a large serving bowl.

Whisk the garlic, vinegar, salt, and pepper in a small bowl; whisk in the olive oil.

Pour the dressing over the vegetables and bread, toss well, and serve at once.

Variations: Substitute ½ pound trimmed green beans, blanched, or 1 cup canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed, for the cucumber.

Add 1 pound fresh mozzarella, cut into 1-inch cubes, with the bread.

Add 2 or 3 chopped anchovy fillets with the bread.

Add 1 tablespoon chopped oregano leaves or chopped parsley leaves with the bread.

Substitute balsamic vinegar for the red wine vinegar.

Serve with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano over the top.

Tomatoes

Most tomatoes are picked green and ripened with ethylene gas, an unsatisfactory practice at best. If possible, buy vine-ripened tomatoes. They should be deeply colored and firm but with some give; they should also have a mildly acrid smell at the stem. If you buy tomatoes with the stem still attached, don’t be fooled: woody, hard stems still most likely mean the tomatoes were picked green and allowed to ripen off the vine. Store fresh tomatoes in a dark, cool place; use within a day or two of purchase. Never refrigerate tomatoes—the cold will turn off the flavor esters, which will never turn back on.

Seeding Tomatoes

We don’t seed tomatoes—except in the most fussy preparations. First, the better your tomatoes, the fewer the seeds. Second, there’s a lot of flavor in those seeds and the juice around them.

However, some people have trouble digesting the seeds or insist on pitch-perfect aesthetics. If you want to seed tomatoes, cut them in half at the equator and gently squeeze them, cut side down, over a bowl, thereby pushing out the seeds and the pulp. You may also have to run your finger with some chambers to dislodge stubborn seeds.

Tomato, Wax Bean, and Olive Salad

For this salad, the best balsamic is a syrupy one, aged at least three years. Makes 6 servings

¾ pound wax beans, cut into 1-inch lengths

1¼ pounds tomatoes, seeded and cut into a 1-inch dice

6 tablespoons green olives, preferably fat, juicy Spanish olives, pitted and sliced

2 medium shallots, sliced into thin rings

1½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the beans, cook for 1 minute, then drain in a colander set in the sink and refresh with cool water until room temperature. Drain well and transfer to a large serving bowl.

Add the tomatoes, olives, and shallots; toss well.

Whisk the vinegar, salt, sugar, and pepper in a small bowl; slowly whisk in the olive oil. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss gently to serve.

Variations: Substitute green beans for the wax beans.

Substitute peeled asparagus for the wax beans; blanch for 2 minutes.

Substitute 3 scallions, thinly sliced, for the shallots.

Can’t get enough tomatoes? Check out the Roasted Tomato Soup and the various chilled tomato soups in the soup chapter. Or, of course, peruse the chapter on Pasta and Noodles, starting on section Pasta and Noodles.

Chopped Summer Salad

The fresh taste of summer is enhanced by the spark of a bar staple: Angostura bitters. Look for it in the drink aisle at your supermarket. For the best presentation, make sure the vegetables are all cut to the same overall size. Makes 6 servings

3 tablespoons white wine vinegar

2 teaspoons chopped dill fronds or 1 teaspoon dried dill

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

2 to 6 dashes of Angostura bitters (see Note)

8 large radishes, cut into a ¾-inch dice

2 medium cucumbers, peeled, halved lengthwise, seeded, and cut into a ¾-inch dice

1 large yellow summer squash, cut into a ¾-inch dice

Whisk the vinegar, dill, sugar, salt, and pepper in a large serving bowl. Whisk in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream, then whisk in the bitters.

Add the radishes, cucumbers, and squash. Toss well before serving.

Note: Add only a couple of drops of the bitters the first time to see if you like its edge.

Variations: Substitute sherry vinegar or champagne vinegar for the white wine vinegar.

Substitute stemmed thyme for the dill.

Reduce the radishes to 4 and add 3 medium scallions, thinly sliced.

Asian Sugar Snap Salad

Sugar snaps have a tough vein running along the concave edge. To remove it, hold the stem and zip the thread off the casing. Makes 8 servings

2 pounds sugar snap peas, fibrous stems zipped off

1½ tablespoons toasted sesame oil

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon soy sauce

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add the sugar snaps and cook until snap-tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink, then refresh with cool water until room temperature. Drain well.

Whisk the sesame oil, rice vinegar, ginger, and soy sauce in a serving bowl. Add the sugar snaps and toss to serve.

Green Bean Salad with
Boiled Lemon, Pecans, and
Parmigiano-Reggiano

This is a reinvented classic from Puglia in southern Italy; it owes much of its flavor to the boiled lemon skin, incredibly mellow and refreshing. Makes 6 servings

1 large lemon

1½ pounds green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

½ cup toasted pecans

3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved

Place the lemon in a small saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil over high heat. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until tender when pierced with a fork, about 20 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink and cool to room temperature (do not run cool water over the lemon).

Cut the lemon in half. Gently scoop out the pulpy insides, placing them in a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl. Squeeze the pulp a little to extract some of the juice without letting any of the fibrous bits through the mesh, then set aside over the bowl to drain. Slice the lemon rind into

¼-inch strips, then chop these strips.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the beans and cook for 2 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink and refresh with cool water until room temperature. Drain well.

Discard the lemon pulp. Whisk the vinegar, salt, and pepper into the bowl with the lemon juice in the bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil.

Place the green beans, chopped lemon rind, pecans, and Parmigiano-Reggiano in a large serving bowl. Add the dressing and toss to coat.

Variations: Substitute sugar snap peas, chopped asparagus spears, or broccoli florets for the green beans.

Substitute Asiago or Pecorino Romano for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Fennel and Pear Salad

An easy way to prepare this Italian-inspired salad is to slice the fennel and pear with a mandoline, the blade set just under 1/₈ inch. Make sure you use the food guard to protect your fingers as the fruit and vegetable pass over the very sharp blades. Or use a food processor fitted with the 1mm slicing blade, although it will juice the ingredients, rendering them a little soggy. Failing all that, a sharp chef’s knife will do the trick. Makes 4 servings

1 large fennel bulb

2 ripe pears

3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano, shaved

1/₃ cup lemon juice

3 tablespoons olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Trim the bottom off the fennel bulb; trim off the stalks and fronds. Remove and discard the outer layer. Slice the bulb into 1_/8-inch-thick slices. Separate these, then cut any intact sections into very thin spears. Place in a large serving bowl.

Peel the pears, then core them by inserting a melon baller into their thick end and coring out the seeds with a rotating motion. Slice into 1_/8-inch-thick slices. Place in the bowl with the fennel.

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and pepper; toss to serve.

Variations: Substitute 1 large apple for the pears.

Substitute Asiago or Pecorino Romano for the Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Substitute white balsamic vinegar for the lemon juice.

Jicama and Arugula Salad with
Blood Orange Vinaigrette

Jicama is a root vegetable, sort of like a huge water chestnut with a thin, brown skin. It’s sometimes considered the celery of Latin America. Once peeled, it’s so crisp and nutty, it makes an excellent salad alongside sandwiches. Makes 8 servings

Two 1-pound jicamas, peeled and quartered (see Note)

2 blood oranges

3 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chili powder

½ teaspoon salt

1/₃ cup olive oil, preferably extra virgin olive oil

2 cups chopped arugula leaves (remove the stems if fibrous or tough)

Shred the jicama through the large holes of a box grater or with the shredding blade of a food processor.

Squeeze the juice from the oranges into a serving bowl, taking care to remove any seeds. Whisk in the vinegar, chili powder, and salt. Slowly whisk in the olive oil.

Add the shredded jicama and arugula; toss well to serve.

Note: It’s easiest to peel the jicamas with a paring knife, rather than a vegetable peeler.

Variations: Substitute regular oranges plus ½ teaspoon sugar for the blood oranges.

Sprinkle ¼ cup toasted sliced almonds over the salad.

Sprinkle 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds over the salad.

Marinated Shiitake Salad

Although the stems of shiitakes are too fibrous to be digestible, they can be frozen and added to vegetable stock when you make it. Mung bean sprouts should be small and crisp-tender, with no brown or rusty spots and very tight heads. Makes 6 servings

¼ cup white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1 teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons canola oil

1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil

1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and thinly sliced

1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced

4 medium scallions, thinly sliced

2 cups mung bean sprouts, roughly chopped

Whisk the vinegar, ginger, sugar, salt and pepper in a large bowl; slowly whisk in the canola oil and sesame oil.

Add the sliced mushrooms, bell pepper, scallions, and sprouts. Toss to coat, then cover and set aside at room temperature for 1 hour before serving.

Variations: Substitute stemmed cremini mushrooms for the shiitakes.

Substitute white balsamic vinegar for the white wine vinegar; omit the sugar.

Substitute 2 medium shallots, thinly sliced, for the scallions.

Southwestern Fruit, Melon,
and Berry Salad

Toasted cumin seeds set off the taste of fresh fruit in this easy summer pleaser. Makes 6 servings

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 small ruby-red grapefruit

1 medium cantaloupe, peeled, seeded, and chopped

1 ripe mango, peeled, pitted, and chopped

1 small shallot, minced

1 cup blueberries

1 tablespoon lime juice

1 tablespoon almond oil

¼ teaspoon salt

Toast the cumin seeds in a small skillet over low heat until lightly browned and quite aromatic, shaking the pan often, about 3 minutes. Set aside to cool for 10 minutes.

Cut off about ¼ inch of the stem end of the grapefruit, just so it will sit fiat on the cutting board. Set it down so, then slice off about 1_/8 inch of the top. Slice down along the natural curve of the fruit, taking off the skin and the pith. Hold the grapefruit over your serving bowl and use a small paring knife to free the individual sections from the membrane that encases them, letting the segments and any extra juice fall into the bowl. (Take care not to cut your hand!)

Add the cantaloupe, mango, shallot, and blueberries. Toss in the toasted cumin seeds, lime juice, almond oil, and salt.

Variations: Substitute 1 large orange for the grapefruit.

Substitute a small honeydew melon for the cantaloupe.

Substitute ½ pint raspberries or blackberries for the blueberries.

Slaws

Although coleslaw has come a long way from its Dutch roots (koolsla, or cold cabbage), there’s still no reason to stand on ceremony: a slaw can use any shredded vegetables.

Creamy Coleslaw

We credit James Peterson with this technique to get rid of the cabbage’s natural wateriness. Makes 10 servings

One 3-pound head white cabbage, outer leaves removed, quartered, and then cored

1 tablespoon salt, preferably kosher salt

2/₃ cup mayonnaise, homemade or purchased (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

1/₃ cup sour cream (regular, low-fat, or fat-free)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

2 celery ribs, thinly sliced

1 large shallot, finely diced

Slice the cabbage as thinly as possible on a cutting board, then place it in a large bowl. Add the salt and rub the cabbage between your hands, working the salt into it until you can’t feel any more salt granules in the mix. Place the salted cabbage in a large colander and drain in the sink for 1 hour.

Whisk the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard, vinegar, and sugar in a large serving bowl.

Rinse the cabbage to get rid of the excess salt; squeeze it dry in batches between paper towels. Add it to the dressing.

Add the celery and shallot. Toss well, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.

Variations: Add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves and/or 2 teaspoons stemmed thyme with the celery.

Add ¼ cup golden raisins with the celery.

Add 1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed, with the celery.

Substitute 1 large carrot, shredded through the large holes of a box grater, for the celery.

Substitute 1 small red onion, thinly sliced, for the shallot.

Substitute 1 pickled jalapeño chile, seeded and finely chopped, for the capers.

Vinegary Slaw

Long a staple in New York delis (where it’s known as “health salad”), this easy slaw gets better as it sits in the fridge. Makes 8 servings

¾ cup white vinegar

1/₃ cup sugar

2 teaspoons salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 small head white cabbage (about 1½ pounds)

2 large carrots

1 medium green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely diced

1 medium red bell pepper, cored, seeded, and finely diced

Whisk the vinegar, sugar, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Shred the cabbage and carrots through the large holes of a box grater or with the shredding blade of a food processor.

Toss the shredded cabbage and carrots along with the green and red bell peppers into the dressing. Cover and refrigerate for at least 12 hours or up to 1 week, stirring occasionally to coat all the vegetables. Serve by scooping up the vegetables with a slotted spoon, letting any excess dressing drain off.

Variations: Add 2 teaspoons chopped dill fronds, 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes, or 1 teaspoon stemmed thyme with the sugar.

Substitute white wine vinegar for the white vinegar.

Substitute 4 celery ribs, thinly sliced, for the bell peppers.

Radish Slaw

Shredded radishes make a crisp, peppery side salad, great with sandwiches or burgers. Makes 8 servings

6 tablespoons champagne or white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon chopped parsley leaves

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons canola, sunflower, or grapeseed oil

24 large red radishes

2 medium cucumbers, peeled, sliced in half lengthwise, and the seeds scooped out

2 large carrots

Whisk the vinegar, sugar, parsley, salt, and pepper in a large serving bowl; slowly whisk in the oil.

Shred the radishes, cucumbers, and carrots through the large holes of a box grater or with the shredding blade of a food processor. Toss with the dressing in the bowl. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or up to 3 days.

Variations: Substitute stemmed thyme or minced tarragon for the parsley.

Substitute 2 medium apples, peeled and cored, for the cucumbers.

Asian Carrot Slaw

Here, we pair carrots with Asian flavors for a mellow take on the picnic classic. Makes 6 servings

¾ pound pearl onions

1 pound large carrots

½ cup dried cranberries

½ cup coarsely chopped toasted unsalted cashews

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 tablespoon soy sauce

1 tablespoon finely grated peeled fresh ginger

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat. Add the onions and cook for 3 minutes. Drain in a colander set in the sink, then rinse with cool water.

Peel the onions, then gently squeeze them to separate the soft, inner layers. Roughly chop these layers and place them in a large serving bowl.